Why Climbing Needs a Villain

  Рет қаралды 12,173

Tristan Chen

Tristan Chen

Жыл бұрын

This is basically an announcement that I'm going to start publicly talking shit more. Drop a comment for any topics or people you want discussed. As always leave an angry comment if you disagree

Пікірлер: 234
@skipperv7884
@skipperv7884 Жыл бұрын
Or not. You don't need to try to drag others down into your hole with you. People get paid for this stuff because of their ability to create content for marketing a sponsors product. If they choose to seek out "soft" problems or go out on a limb suggesting a grade it causes no harm for others. This video reeks of envy. Hope you find something positive to steer your energy towards.
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
If they have to seek out the easiest climbs to achieve something then they haven't actually achieved anything and aren't worthy of the attention they receive. Your opinion that they should be paid solely for their ability to create marketing content is part of the issue, and you clearly lack the ability to discern between content and *content. You are the type of person that thinks Twitch should become a hub for live streamed feet, yes that draws eyes but if we allow that to exist it will choke resources away from actual climbers like an invasive species away from natives. Eyeball retention shouldn't be the only KPI and if companies aren't going to take responsibility for driving attention in the right direction then someone has to.
@ClusterOfBlueRabbits
@ClusterOfBlueRabbits Жыл бұрын
I've found people with questionable ethics and a less than standard approach (or inflated communication of their feats) are kept in line well and have a relationship with "villains" that keeps the sport fair. Very few fair or in it for the fun climbers will bother to keep people cheating or not quite playing by the rules in line. Villains have played a part in keeping us all playing the same game in my community at least.
@skipperv7884
@skipperv7884 Жыл бұрын
Based on all of the “positive” feedback you got from this post you are obviously in tune with a niche population that I do not have the pleasure of interacting with. Enjoy your quest.
@saxon8981
@saxon8981 Жыл бұрын
stop projecting ...no pun intended
@eliotaugusto9548
@eliotaugusto9548 Жыл бұрын
Nah, I see no envy. This is positive for the sport. People used to come out with a hammer and chisel to make their point, but now we as a community are to afraid to offend anyone. We need a modern day compressor route.
@b1p_mac275
@b1p_mac275 Жыл бұрын
as long as there’s never any foul-mouthing of jimmy i’m all in for this ride
@nightmonkey7426
@nightmonkey7426 Жыл бұрын
Tristan, I ask you kindly to not only focus on bouldering, but also route climbers who have done the same thing. Additionally, don't forget to shine more light on climbers on the positive side of the spectrum. For every climber you call out, give some ups to climbers like Griffin, Isabelle, Litz. Go 50/50 negative positive and I think people will dig that shit. Good luck man this is much needed
@betalabsusa6984
@betalabsusa6984 Жыл бұрын
I’ll let you go through my scorecard, I volunteer as victim number 1
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
I won't be gentle
@zoaxanthellae
@zoaxanthellae Жыл бұрын
"Armchair climbers are almost always correct in their assessments of climbs" really made me wonder if I was missing some kind of very involved satire. Nonetheless, the gossipy part of me is pretty interested by the whole thing
@mrmonsterhunter808
@mrmonsterhunter808 10 ай бұрын
Commercial gym setting especially at large gyms have gotten insane. I am able to finish v10s at a large gym near me but I’ve been projecting a v9 outside for like a year at this point. It is painfully obvious when you watch a climbing video if it’s soft, especially when you are experienced. People who say it’s hard to judge based on the climb age right, but that’s how you know they aren’t actually good climbers. It’s not about the climb itself, usually you can tell just based off the climber’s movement in the video.
@mrmonsterhunter808
@mrmonsterhunter808 10 ай бұрын
*I meant to say finish (“v10s”) in a few tries
@cillijed4291
@cillijed4291 Жыл бұрын
this has got me more hyped than any mellow vid
@conorwellman9376
@conorwellman9376 Жыл бұрын
Let’s start by analyzing the list of people who have taken 10 big ones for Sergeant Hightower.
@TinyDynos
@TinyDynos Жыл бұрын
Red Rock, land of the "vacation" grades
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
100% that thing is the worst climb ever!
@adamskaggs
@adamskaggs Жыл бұрын
This is one of my favorite comments ever. did that deep diver a few weeks ago. found this gem. kzbin.info/www/bejne/e3W9dqesecaCfLM&ab_channel=PeterLi
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
😂😂😂 gotttt em
@aidanscarffe5256
@aidanscarffe5256 Жыл бұрын
Phahaha brilliant, looking forward to it. Topic ideas - 1. Who you think is really out there pushing the limits no BS - dudes like Aidan, Will, Drew and Shawn? 2. Boulders that you think are actually hard for the grade or just hard regardless of the grade like lucid dreaming + railway
@cillijed4291
@cillijed4291 Жыл бұрын
You either die a villian or live long enough to see yourself become the hero
@browntownbeta1674
@browntownbeta1674 Жыл бұрын
When you say people need to get called out, do you mean like when you fell off the top of livin astro, but just took it anyway and called it a victory whip? For example.
@moves420
@moves420 Жыл бұрын
Laff
@drew5015
@drew5015 Жыл бұрын
“Alphane is going to stay V17 unless we say otherwise” and “You might want to examine your 8a scorecards before I publicly go through them” had me 💀
@Rafa-uj2oi
@Rafa-uj2oi Жыл бұрын
Fantastic, love to see you full of energy
@vincentmollicone3020
@vincentmollicone3020 Жыл бұрын
people starting climbs incorrectly. Especially when pulling on is a crux....
@TinyDynos
@TinyDynos Жыл бұрын
The worst...
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
You have me wondering if I've done this recently now
@slapthesloper
@slapthesloper Жыл бұрын
@@TChenRockif you did put yourself on blast with everyone else
@b1p_mac275
@b1p_mac275 Жыл бұрын
People jump or campus starting boulder problems makes my skin crawl and I hate that I care.
@Mental_Clarity
@Mental_Clarity Жыл бұрын
@@TChenRockyour F5 footy in the NRG vid starts with your left hand above the established start. I’m not saying you didn’t do the boulder because you might have started the video 1 move in, but a lot of people might watch your vid and believe that start is kosher but in reality it removes the hardest physical move of the problem. All of a sudden the quality of the problem gets diluted, especially when you label it as soft. Just wanna highlight the importance of communication in a word of mouth sport.
@luke_the_nuke
@luke_the_nuke Жыл бұрын
Not the villain we need, but the one we deserve…
@dylantamez6463
@dylantamez6463 Жыл бұрын
Subaru, Solutions and soft shells 😭😭😭😭💀💀💀
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
the real admin of @backseatgrading. I would love to see you go through 8a logbooks 😂
@alexantone5532
@alexantone5532 Жыл бұрын
I honestly think that climbs can be different grades for different people due to different morphologies (just be good faith and state so, otherwise being criticized is fair). Also what are your thoughts on Paul Robinson upgrading lucid dreaming to v16?
@alexbiale
@alexbiale Жыл бұрын
Paul downgraded lucid from 16 to 15
@SpartaSpartan117
@SpartaSpartan117 Жыл бұрын
@@alexbiale I've heard that he said that based off of current grading scales it would fit more in the v16 range. There was a whole kerfuffle with the V15 standard back in the day iirc
@alexbiale
@alexbiale Жыл бұрын
@@SpartaSpartan117 Ahh, I didn't hear that. I'm off social media these days so I miss some stuff.
@seanfaulkner5941
@seanfaulkner5941 Жыл бұрын
in the immortal words of Morgan freeman featured on heroes vs villains by our beloved young metro boomin,, "you either die a hero or live long enough to become the villain",, way to make it thru bossman
@TomSeizure_DragonBallTCG
@TomSeizure_DragonBallTCG Жыл бұрын
I think I recall hearing Aiden saying on a podcast that he spent 30+ sessions on Alphane and had made a replica, V17 seems plausible based on that and him saying it’s the hardest and longest project he’s had.
@LukeMais888
@LukeMais888 Жыл бұрын
Burden of Dreams has been both a more difficult and more long term project for Aidan from what I know, but I agree that Alphane could very well be a genuine V17 despite this
@TomSeizure_DragonBallTCG
@TomSeizure_DragonBallTCG Жыл бұрын
@@LukeMais888 he’s only had 1 short trip there but your right that it’s hard for him, he’s said it’s not his style which when your pushing the boundaries really makes a difference
@A.Y.M.910
@A.Y.M.910 Жыл бұрын
I can definitely understand your point here and I'm glad you mentioned the mindsets of climbers being understood before such actions of the said villain in climbing are taken.
@elooouan
@elooouan Жыл бұрын
I'm all for it this is exactly what we need
@tylerheitmann1758
@tylerheitmann1758 Жыл бұрын
I'm here for the drama, the best sports stories come out of rivalries.
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
Beef should be made public for our entertainment.
@BigDickMark
@BigDickMark Жыл бұрын
Like climbing grades, I'm also on a spectrum.
@MrSlope27
@MrSlope27 Жыл бұрын
Or maybe climbing just needs people to honestly grade things with a no bullshit, no hard feelings attitude. It's that simple. Seb Bouin does that. Adam Ondra does that. All other approaches are ego trips: Inflating grades for the attention is an ego trip. Being smug about downgrading is an ego trip. Not commenting on grade because you don't want to hurt feelings is playing into the ego trip. Yes, it's not about the grade. But also, since it's not about the grade, no one should get offended when things get concensus up/downgraded. Aidan and Will not grading Alphane wasn't annoying because it didn't give the grade enough attention. It was annoying because it gave the grade too much attention: If they didn't think the grade was a big deal they shouldn't feel bad about proposing an opinion.
@Inspectortopout
@Inspectortopout 2 күн бұрын
Let’s talk about Head Route Setters who cannot climb more than V6. Instagram setting is only bat hangs and knee bars.
@tristanlasley8030
@tristanlasley8030 Жыл бұрын
I guess I'll start posting my training, even tho it's gym training. It'll be a start, wont be pretty either. But you said bring hard climbing to the masses, let's give them the opportunity to view it.
@zeroethsort1071
@zeroethsort1071 Жыл бұрын
I don't skate, but I follow Gifted Hater's channel and it's enjoyable. Recently, a pro skater he talked about had a questionable camera angle on a trick he did over a picnic table, and after Gifted Hater's video came out, the pro went back and filmed the same trick, at a not-so-ambiguous angle. I think cases like this make it seem like some degree of criticism, within reason, could help the sport.
@playboimarty
@playboimarty 19 сағат бұрын
Crossover episode comment lmao
@BlessUpDiHerbs
@BlessUpDiHerbs Жыл бұрын
What’s up with you not clipping the chains on livin’ astro? Isn’t that an example about what your talking about?
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
Oh spicy, I like it. Did you dig through all my old stuff or did you already know that? And that's absolutely a fair point, I wouldn't do that now and the next time I'm home and sport climbing I'll repeat it. I would've that summer but I injured my wrist, and then after Jaws I did China instead so didn't have time for Astro.
@BlessUpDiHerbs
@BlessUpDiHerbs Жыл бұрын
It’s just a well known thing.
@alexbiale
@alexbiale Жыл бұрын
Does the same logic apply to people who might climb an "elite" level climb every now and then if they aren't sponsored and aren't posting on Instagram? I'm mainly referring to the weekend warrior types who might only be able to send a couple hard boulders a year if they're lucky, and some of those might be soft, but that might be a result of convenience as opposed to some underlying lack of ethos.
@alexbiale
@alexbiale Жыл бұрын
Asking for a friend...
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
The level of shit that should be talked follows a parabolic arc. Zero for absolute beginners or like a child climbing outside for the first time, very very little for someone climbing occasionally for fun only, a little for regular week warriors (friends only when you do something wrong), some for the strong types (people you know say you started wrong or dabbed), and a fucking lot for pros (some asshole on a different continent makes a video calling you out for trying to upgrade Voyager)
@alexbiale
@alexbiale Жыл бұрын
@@TChenRock My last question is - will this content be released on some kind of schedule? With the second season of The White Lotus behind us, I'm in need of regular content.
@dragonswan1101
@dragonswan1101 Жыл бұрын
While being rightfully skeptical/critical of the industry is fine, it also necessitates the creation of cooler, more in-trend media to replace it. People will still consume at a variably constant level (if climbing popularity doesn't die), so if the fantasy of the climbing lifestyle isn't portrayed in a way that entertains the masses, I fail to see how this exercise will amount to much outside of creating an outspoken sandbagging culture from a disgruntled niche of the community without much lasting value. Easiest way to get coin is through grade chasing, highballing/dangerous climbing (see the difficulty through irrationally dangerous visuals), or competitions. Majority of people cannot understand what difficulty actually entails at the highest grades, similar to the original mania over climbing the tallest mountain (why Everest was/is considered to be the “crowning achievement” of mountaineering over much more technically difficult routes). Rockentry is significantly more popular than 99% of pro climbing channels cause he caters his content to the lowest common denominator. In a perfect world, high grade channels should outstrip any success that Oswaldo has had. However, this isn't a perfect world, so we must compromise where we can to transfer the ethos of hard climbing in a way that doesn’t bore the climbing masses (or a subset of them that can garner $ from sponsorships). Cutting down the froth in the insanity of climbing sponsorships is a solid first step, but your ideal reality cannot be created unless you find a way to make it that *content is as entertaining as slop content. Or, accept that the community you want to foster will be small in inception.
@nathanogara9660
@nathanogara9660 Жыл бұрын
Gatekeeping location beta
@tynanhewes1368
@tynanhewes1368 Жыл бұрын
yessssss....its soooo annoying, especially when they pretend to give info half-way
@nathanogara9660
@nathanogara9660 Жыл бұрын
@@tynanhewes1368 especially especially when something is posted on social media about their super epic send of this god tier amazing climb
@billr5842
@billr5842 Жыл бұрын
While spraying on instagram... then they whine when area gets popular
@Justin-bz9bt
@Justin-bz9bt Жыл бұрын
Hell yes, keep up the good fight brother
@rockyboimedia
@rockyboimedia Жыл бұрын
Yes finally! Like a content cop for climbing!
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
ACAB applies to content cops also
@BigDickMark
@BigDickMark Жыл бұрын
@@buff8995 bro lol 😂
@Bouldest1
@Bouldest1 Жыл бұрын
Tristan heel turn
@elijahkiser3714
@elijahkiser3714 Жыл бұрын
Someone needs to tell them how soft Levity is!
@conifer9879
@conifer9879 Жыл бұрын
careful now
@conifer9879
@conifer9879 Жыл бұрын
Please please please explain how the money works in the professional climbing industry. I have no gauge whatsoever and neither do any of my friends (we climb v6). I would have guessed like top 10% make a good living, but it looks like its like 0.0001% Maybe this will help explain why its important to draw attention to people who actually push the sport instead of posting cancer to instagram
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
lol, what money?
@alexantone5532
@alexantone5532 Жыл бұрын
Iirc, Drew ruana stated that maybe 5 people in the us make 100k+ from climbing sponsorships/climbing for a living
@adityakrishna4359
@adityakrishna4359 Жыл бұрын
GOAT
@lemur0364
@lemur0364 Жыл бұрын
is there a clip of alex saying that? can someone send me the clip?
@mr.x5582
@mr.x5582 Жыл бұрын
Hyped
@sburchett90
@sburchett90 Жыл бұрын
Says the dude talking about “going for desp” is v15. Talk all you want. Talk is cheap. I’ll fist fight you anytime you want. Next?
@KennyYosh
@KennyYosh Жыл бұрын
You say people won't know unless it's pointed out to them that dicktopia is easier than lucid dreaming, but you also say that an average weekend warrior can look at a climb and judge its difficulty solely based on its internet presence or whatever. Which is it? Can people tell climbs are soft without climbing them or no? Also, you say that they need to be open for criticism as a public figure, but you never offer any real reason as to why this is necessary? You're welcome to give your honest opinion about a climb and call it soft if it is, but what's the benefit in specifically calling others for climbing soft? How does it benefit the climbing community in any way by downplaying others' achievements? And they are achievements even if you suggest it's not in one of your comments. People are inspired by climbs because of the line or other aspects of climbing, not just solely the grade. But let's entertain the idea that the grade is the only thing that matters in climbing just for the sake of your argument. Climbing a soft v15 will still be better than the overwhelming majority of climbers. We can also entertain the idea that the people who climb soft don't deserve their brand deals, recognition or sponsorships just for the sake of your argument. Instead of trashing them, have you thought about the other side of the spectrum of uplifting those more underrated climbers and bringing attention to them?
@silasj.d16
@silasj.d16 Жыл бұрын
Lying about grade is one thing, but don't you think your comments on grade hunting are a bit out of touch? If there is a climb that one can do that is notoriously soft for the grade, then I feel the better conversation would be surrounding changing the grade rather than bashing the climber for attempting it. After all, the people you are calling out supposedly do this for a living, so if they are incentivized to climb seemingly harder boulders then why wouldn't they?
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
Why shouldn't the grade bashing be done by the person that sent it? Take some personal responsibility and downgrade that bad boy. Also some climbs are inevitably going to be soft, the issue isn't when you just do a couple, or even if you know you can't do a hard one of that grade and just do the easier ones, its when you intentionally only seek out the softies and then hype yourself up as being hot shit for sending that grade.
@RedSkyLB
@RedSkyLB Жыл бұрын
Looking forward to this!
@Synthysizer
@Synthysizer Жыл бұрын
totes down for what you're seeking out to do in this video, but i do think that some of this correction at the top trickles down into sandbagging culture at the weekend warrior grade band, which i find is it's own brand of exhausting behavior in climbing. Kilter and tension grade comments are worse than 4chan.
@babsds0
@babsds0 Жыл бұрын
Kilter grades are super inconsistent imo. Soft af below v10 and sandbagged af over v11.
@natebrun2040
@natebrun2040 Жыл бұрын
Video is great.👏
@finntregurtha2873
@finntregurtha2873 Жыл бұрын
Alphane could still be 17, yeah 4 repeats but 3 we’re from some of the best atm. Very keen for the call outs though.
@madraven5915
@madraven5915 Жыл бұрын
lol. Who are you excluding?
@pierremilot8117
@pierremilot8117 Жыл бұрын
Looking forward to it!
@mromanat
@mromanat Жыл бұрын
It is a shame that a lot of people take advantage of low hanging fruit to get publicity, but I don't think turning yourself into a social pariah is going to change anything. I hate the phrase "they're just doing their job," but I think it partially applies here. Nobody is getting catfished into buying a Subaru. Buying a Subaru is entirely your choice at the end of the day... even if that boulder that so and so sprayed about sending really is just V14 and not V15 that's still significant enough to anyone that would actually be influenced to buy the products advertised. And for the people that aren't making any money off of it, then it's sad that they think that they need so much attention to be happy but I don't think blatantly calling them out is going to do anything other than make them double down. They're not hurting anyone but themselves, the more they think themselves to be hot shit, the less they will find that they enjoy life holistically.
@Aidan.climbing
@Aidan.climbing Жыл бұрын
I like it
@TC_OFF
@TC_OFF Жыл бұрын
100% truth. Nobody is posting their “cutting edge” climbing videos simply to save the planet/humanity. They should be open to criticism or doubt if claiming special achievements in widespread media…that being said…I need to go DG everything in my 8a 😂 brb
@MythAvatar
@MythAvatar Жыл бұрын
Man at some points i thought this was satire. Honestly, i agree. The whole point of the grading system is to show the difficulty, and if some of the climbs aren't graded correctly it fucks the system. You climb mega hard, you use it to make money, and then actually the 8C FA you just did was 8B but no one is going to come and do it because it's a standalone in the middle of no where, i call bs. Call people out, just don't go over board. Man 6:07 absolutely killed me, savage.
@danielbaird1295
@danielbaird1295 Жыл бұрын
Everything in this video is 100% correct
@yuri7297
@yuri7297 7 ай бұрын
bro you say like more times than a beverly hills girl. abyways i have never watched a climbing video in my life and youtube just recommended this to me so go for it man.
@johnspoerl4551
@johnspoerl4551 Жыл бұрын
Let’s hear some takes about the slug
@claytongroth2348
@claytongroth2348 Жыл бұрын
Roy? Lol
@johnspoerl4551
@johnspoerl4551 Жыл бұрын
Naw, the intermediate start between euro and grand illusion, added after GI was FA’d
@Drew_Ruana
@Drew_Ruana Жыл бұрын
Goddammit lmao
@alexantone5532
@alexantone5532 Жыл бұрын
@@Drew_Ruana you got some thoughts drew?
@shmalts1
@shmalts1 Жыл бұрын
@@Drew_Ruana 😂😂😂😂😂
@JoelZerr
@JoelZerr Жыл бұрын
😂😂😂 this is amazing Tristen!
@TheToxiqGamer
@TheToxiqGamer Жыл бұрын
big up
@billr5842
@billr5842 Жыл бұрын
V5 in my gym
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Жыл бұрын
I mean Shawn did the moves on Burden in like what, 3 days? If he sends in like 10 sessions then he is THE authority on V17s. He will probably send a V18 in the next couple of years... Its always hard for one generation to grasp what the new generation is doing, same way everyone was disregarding the first 9b's.
@rareearth97
@rareearth97 Жыл бұрын
Doing moves and connecting them is different thing, I am not saying Shawn will struggle on it next time, but we will see. In every sport we see progress and climbing is really new sport and we can definately expect V18 in next 10 years.
@Connordrs1123
@Connordrs1123 Жыл бұрын
@@rareearth97 shawn also did megatron which neither drew or daniel could do with like 60+ days on the boulder
@thomashalley5283
@thomashalley5283 Жыл бұрын
He did not do the first move on burden
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Жыл бұрын
@@rareearth97 Maybe on an endurance piece it is. If you can do the single moves in just a couple of days, a 4 move boulder is not gonna take long to send. (I know its a 5 mover but the last move looks like a V6 for Shawn). From my own experience, usually when I do the hardest move on a boulder and its under 7-8 moves, I will send that day.
@alexbarcovsky4319
@alexbarcovsky4319 Жыл бұрын
@@thomashalley5283 He had, he just didnt release the video yet
@quentinchi3754
@quentinchi3754 Жыл бұрын
"Wonder" at Index River WA is soft, like v5, with new beta
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
That't not surprising
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
I was thinking same thing wonder if like a v4 good rule of thumb is take off at least two v grades for all of WA
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
@@michalgoatfeet idk man, Feel The Pinch was pretty fuckin hard for the grade.
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
@@kockarthur7976 that's the exception not the rule. Feel the pinch is harder than Busted "v8" right next door. In general wa is butter.
@ralphmunn1685
@ralphmunn1685 Жыл бұрын
Jonathan Siegrist. 'Nuff said.
@lukemvincent
@lukemvincent Жыл бұрын
@everyone that takes v10 for moulin rouge
@aidancallan1591
@aidancallan1591 Жыл бұрын
So cal climbers,Der kapitan at black mountain is v9-10 not 12 🤢🤢🤣🤣
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
100%
@aidancallan1591
@aidancallan1591 Жыл бұрын
@@michalgoatfeet glad someone agrees lol
@Com_Truise
@Com_Truise Жыл бұрын
This guy is the living embodiment of r/climbingcirclejerk. I respect your hustle posting bombastic click-baity videos to try to grow your channel.
@hardmovers
@hardmovers Жыл бұрын
Bro just spit pure facts.
@lithiumfire9693
@lithiumfire9693 Жыл бұрын
not reel rock 😢
@shmalts1
@shmalts1 Жыл бұрын
Wasn’t expecting tchen to become the gifted hater of climbing but alright
@titiuclaudio
@titiuclaudio Жыл бұрын
Tristan, this is an important discussion, and your courage to bring it up, being an experienced climber, is appreciated. You seem like a smart person so you probably know YT is not a healthy/ideal platform to progress on these issues. Comments section is as well proven to be innefective in terms of mentality or openness to change opinions (it makes it worse). Albeit mindful of that, I decided to post here with no intent of further replies (let me know how to reach out privately in case you feel like talking further). We know that antagonism is inevitable in any area. Achieving positive outcomes from this ever existing polarity, depends on our intelligence to find better ways to deliver our criticism and confront the things we disagree. Geographically speaking, it might be hard to promote a more direct talk within the community. I also live in a big country where technology helps with the distance barrier. But from experience (24 years of climbing here - been through quite a lot of shit), nothing replaces a good old and serious face to face conversation. All in all, I hope my message favors good thoughts on your quest. Peace out
@paultanner102
@paultanner102 Жыл бұрын
Let the north face /prana athlete roasting begin LoL
@saxon8981
@saxon8981 Жыл бұрын
wedge climbing videos i like a lot
@saxon8981
@saxon8981 Жыл бұрын
and dave mcleaod
@jemerson39
@jemerson39 Жыл бұрын
Haha good luck with that…
@rareearth97
@rareearth97 Жыл бұрын
We have some "villains", like Seb bouin, who is just crushing everything and downgrading everyone, even Ondra, and it seems noone dares to repeat his lines. It seems like lead climbers like Ondra, ghisolfi, megos and jakob have no problems telling their true feeling about a grade
@undergroundoll
@undergroundoll Жыл бұрын
Hey! Not related to the subject at all , but you are such my type haha and feels like you have a very good vibration even through video . hope your health is better now and youre doing good! take care x
@pedrohack2869
@pedrohack2869 Жыл бұрын
bro is about to become the next Fred Rouhling
@ethansalvo8389
@ethansalvo8389 Жыл бұрын
Fuck yeah Tristan, thank you
@cristangarza7895
@cristangarza7895 Жыл бұрын
What’s the deal with Reel Rock?
@noahshaulis367
@noahshaulis367 Жыл бұрын
I think that yeah alphane is soft asf probably like v16 or maybe you could call it v17- but it’s not at the level of v17 although I believe that Shawn Rabatou is like literally the strongest boulderer regardless and I do feel like he needs to take responsibility and really get into why he thinks it’s v17 and get some other people opinion on it because I feel like he is definitely able to call things v17 at this point I mean even recently he almost got every move on burden of dreams very quickly I just feel like for things this hard you need a lot of really solid climbers to talk to eachother about it and be honest and really say why it is what it is
@zoaxanthellae
@zoaxanthellae Жыл бұрын
A more charitable take on Aidan and Will's non-grades is that the vast majority of their experience is on UK boulders, and UK boulders historically have a sandbagging problem, partly out of culture and partly because John Gaskins set a very wrong baseline for what 8B and 8C look like. Add in an unusual love for indoor board climbing and (relative to people like Daniel, Jimmy, Dave, Shawn, Nalle, and Giuliano) not that much time climbing >= 8C around the world, and it doesn't seem so surprising that they'd honestly believe the other people near their level have a more accurate perception of grades?
@danschmidt5189
@danschmidt5189 Жыл бұрын
@@zoaxanthellae Did Gaskins actually set that standard or did he just slap 8C on 45° panes of glass with a few chips in them?
@zoaxanthellae
@zoaxanthellae Жыл бұрын
@@danschmidt5189 Hey, don't forget the "matchstick holds"!
@alexantone5532
@alexantone5532 Жыл бұрын
I mean if every climb is soft maybe you’re just a sandbagger… for real though, will bosi took a trip to the Czech Republic recently and sent like 10 v15s there, with a v14 flash. In the same trip he sent alphane, he also sent eyphra, a v16. Aiden also put up a v16 FA to a classic v13 in the same trip he sent alphane, so my personal opinion is that those Brits are super strong and used to sandbagged grades rather than alphane being soft, as pretty much everyone in Shawn’s crew (who basically established the v16 grade) agreed it was v17
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
@@alexantone5532 the Czech is a whole other thing. Personal opinion that I'll justify later in video form: its softer than the rest of Europe.
@kaskerkid
@kaskerkid Жыл бұрын
I'm here for this
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
@tchenrock 1000% in support of this dude! Let ‘er rip! 😂
@scottking2962
@scottking2962 Жыл бұрын
Top 10 softest people in 2022 next.
@Trevino293
@Trevino293 Жыл бұрын
@trevormungeam
@trevormungeam Жыл бұрын
If you really think Alphane is 8C+ then how about you send it and give your opinion. Oh wait, you’re not that strong. If no one has officially downgraded it, there’s a reason why, and it doesn’t mean it’s because we’re getting soft
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
It's clear from who's sent it that a refusal to downgrade is not indicative of the difficulty.
@trevormungeam
@trevormungeam Жыл бұрын
@@TChenRock I would argue that from those who have climbed it, there is not definitive evidence that this is the case. Shawn Raboutou needs no background obviously, but 9A doesn’t seem unrealistic for someone whose tick list has 2 x 9A, at least 7 x 8C+, and an outrageous number of 8Cs. Will Bosi has been crushing this year. The guy just nearly flashed a well established 8C and has done 9A, 2 x 8C+, 12 x 8C (and flashed 6 of those) this year or so. Aidan Roberts has 9A, 2 x 8C+, and 4 x 8C this year. Simon Lorenzi has done 2 x 9A and 3 x 8C+ in a little over a year as well. I think that they have more than enough ability to offer a grade for Alphane. If it really is 8C+, which is entirely subjective anyways, then why do you care so much anyways? No need to put others down or say that the accomplishments of others are not important or meaningful.
@Del1Dub
@Del1Dub Жыл бұрын
YES. Lets do this
@myusen
@myusen Жыл бұрын
The idea that as soon as you make money as a climber you need to listen to criticism is the dumbest u.s. based take ive ever heared. Why would anyone owe you something for when northface pays them?
@samrothstein8328
@samrothstein8328 Жыл бұрын
❤️❤️❤️ soft as butter ova here
@quentinchi3754
@quentinchi3754 Жыл бұрын
@teoo315
@teoo315 Жыл бұрын
nice, keep it real
@RyanWang-rl7yz
@RyanWang-rl7yz Жыл бұрын
@rockentry quaking rn 🤡
@bubbagimp10
@bubbagimp10 Жыл бұрын
Love it
@sweatfootm
@sweatfootm Жыл бұрын
I've been trying to get High Plains Drifter downgraded for years now.
@danielbeall7725
@danielbeall7725 Жыл бұрын
On it! 😜
@davidto8036
@davidto8036 Жыл бұрын
why not call out some of the climbers? Go full on villain, we want names haha
@adambeauchamp4813
@adambeauchamp4813 Жыл бұрын
I like this shit man👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
@adambeauchamp4813
@adambeauchamp4813 Жыл бұрын
Almost like a “More plates more dates” channel but for climbing
@trevormungeam
@trevormungeam Жыл бұрын
Can’t get behind this one honestly. With a craft as subjective as climbing there will always be room for difference of opinion. I really think this contributes to a more negative climbing pursuit
@jnflbacho
@jnflbacho Жыл бұрын
hot take: hands are aid
@user-ck5xu4eh1n
@user-ck5xu4eh1n Жыл бұрын
Based
@andersonbouton4355
@andersonbouton4355 Жыл бұрын
Earned a subscribe, well done.
@andersonbouton4355
@andersonbouton4355 Жыл бұрын
We may live in a world where the Brits are trying to tell us they're that good.
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
You forgot to mention how soft Washington is!!!
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
I disagree. At least if you consider WA altogether soft, then almost everywhere else is even softer (besides Squamish and LCC) and the whole concept of soft loses meaning.
@michalgoatfeet
@michalgoatfeet Жыл бұрын
@@kockarthur7976 is all good to each their own. But the v8-v12 range here are generally softer compared to the original benchmarks of the grade in the country.
@gregkerzhner
@gregkerzhner Жыл бұрын
Having traveled and climbed all over the world one thing is a total constant - everyone thinks their crag is "hard", but its actually soft.
@kockarthur7976
@kockarthur7976 Жыл бұрын
@@michalgoatfeet Ok to be fair I have not sampled the V8-12 range in WA range much at all. I mostly climb below that level. V0-7 in WA seems as normal as anywhere else
@elooouan
@elooouan Жыл бұрын
climbing needs what BJJ has... a Gordon Ryan
@barrecan
@barrecan Жыл бұрын
Monica McKeown, least soft climber on KZbin?
@matthewlock1425
@matthewlock1425 Жыл бұрын
Put some respect on the name when you talk about Aidan, man’s probably in top boulders in the world now. Also the score card comment kinda dead climbing ain’t a competition, also the people who say alphane is v17 flashing problems you project so can’t really say anything 🤪
@TChenRock
@TChenRock Жыл бұрын
They might be flashing your projies but they ain’t flashing mine 😜
@matthewlock1425
@matthewlock1425 Жыл бұрын
@@TChenRock don’t remember seeing you get a v14 flash, so score card comment is still wet and you’re still a neek.
@rafaelmarthae6913
@rafaelmarthae6913 Жыл бұрын
the alphane stuff is so weird. like hearing will and aiden repeat like almost the exact same lines when asked ab the grade (well idk mellow crew has so much exp., im not in a position to pass judgement, idk, etc) was odd. Doesn't come off as legit humble, more scared to voice their true opinions fro some reason.
@alexantone5532
@alexantone5532 Жыл бұрын
That in particular is because Aiden’s from the UK which is notoriously sandbagged
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