why do we not put Bondo on bare metal?

What not put Bondo on bear metal?

[@pyroboobysmith359]

3M recommends applying bondo directly to prepared, bare metal.

[@TOMVUTHEPIMP]

You're wrong. Body fillers Always goes to bare metal. The problem her is they used it as modeling clay.

[@aarondalton2223]

I own a shop and ONLY put filler on clean, prepped, bare metal. That door wasn't prepped correctly or even sanded for that matter. Do some more research before you post a video.

[@RickDominick69]

Person observation of a continuing education

[@dusty8084]

Epoxy sealer for the win too.

[@CA11100]

@@RickDominick69 what?

[@TOMVUTHEPIMP]

@@RickDominick69 You need better education then. Body filler ALWAYS goes to bare metal.

[@deputydan2226]

@@TOMVUTHEPIMP yeah you tell him little Mikey Myers.. this is how I was taught but these new guys were spoiled with epoxy

[@Lehmann108]

Bondo is fine on bare metal as long as the metal is clean and sanded with 30 to 40 grit. This is just shitty body work.

[@jrsgarage3244]

The problem is the metal needs to be roughed up with 80 grit or 40 grit 🤠

[@eddiebarrera147]

All the shops us Bondo over properly prepared metal,it's not the Bondo,metal has to have 36 grit scratches on it to hold and properly seal the metal.Many folks sand the metal with to fine of paper ,so thru the years body filler will release itself from metal ,due to vibration from driving,causing it to crack,which absorbs moisture thru cracks,causing rust.especially with thick body filler application.I can see when you pull Bondo off,the metal does not have 36 scratches on it,almost no scratches at all.The body man didn't prep it right,but his repair probably lasted over 20 yrs.🤷🤷🤷

[@RickDominick69]

Well I'm working on a new project that's going to require somebody work so I'm going to put this to the test I'm willing to broaden my horizons we'll see how it works

[@eddiebarrera147]

@@RickDominick69 you really can't put it to the test,cause it will take 20 yrs ,to see the outcome.🤷🤷🤷

[@seangraham4913]

You can add body filler on bare metal. The problem with that one is it is too thick and there were probably holes behind it allowing moisture to separate the body filler from the panel itself.

[@danpalmer8624]

I agree with this guy. The problem with fillers is they have an acid in them that with time usually between 2 to 3 years will start rusting the metal causing them to delaminate allowing moisture to get between the two and causing it to rust faster. Best to prime before you apply a filler.

[@joaogustavodelimateixeira6816]

A thin sheet of tungsten or ceramic, depending on the damage to the bodywork, can be placed behind the hole and place the melted magnesium under casting over it. It's more professional work. Molten magnesium is a good metal for filling car holes in the bodywork, then just do the cabling.

[@SpeedandChromeTV]

I agree, the really funny part is yesterday I watched a how too on the 3M channel showing you to apply it to bare metal. I don't get it.

[@jayinmi3706]

You usually have to prep with 36 or 40 grit, primer isn't going to hold up to that...many brands recommend DTM application.

[@TOMVUTHEPIMP]

This video is wrong and the guy dont know what he's talking about. Body filler goes direct to metal. This issue here is the term "filler" was used to an extreme.

[@thisfool260]

Bondo is like sponge when it comes to moisture. The person doing this repair probably left the bondo in the elements before they primed. You ALWAYS put bondo over clean bare metal or sometimes epoxy primer.

[@billmiller3425]

30 seconds of that camera work and I'm out.

[@RickDominick69]

Goodbye

[@MrCbell57]

Filler is designed to be used against metal. Metal is non pourous so whatever moisture was there was there on the metal before the filler was applied. Or got there due to filler separating at some point because it was not applied properly. Thick. Too thick. That makes it shrink and expand in non correlation to the metal expanding and shrinking. Most the time the filler separates due to poor performing laborers who applied it. They do not treat the metal correctly nor do they know what they are doing. YOu need to rough the metal or score it with 80 grit for proper adheision. Metal and filler both shrink and expand. They do it diffferently however and there is no stoppinig that. But light coats or skim coats as we call it generally do not move around at all and will last 100 years. I am a body man and you are incorrect. We rough up the surface of metal so as the filler will adhere. If it is left slick it will not adhear correctly there by separating over time and allowing moisture to weep inside the area. What you have here is just lazyness and people not knowing the proper way to apply filler. Its not meant as a building block or padding. Its meant to be used as a skim coat over raw or primed metal giving that it has a rough texture to bond well to. Simple as that.

[@RickDominick69]

I don't know it must be something because everytime I run into this problem it's the same thing. I get it that prep is 99% of any project prep clean. Just seems like every time I buy something I run into this very same problem. I'm not a professional by any means I'm just trying to learn something new. I figured the only way to master anything is to try and continue trying until you get it right. This is probably my third project and trying to figure out how to paint it's the next thing for me too figured the mechanical part I've got that all down. Figuring out body work and prep and sanding and priming and painting that's my next goal. At 60 I figured I don't have his many years ahead of me as I do behind me and you know he got to find something to occupy your time

[@MrCbell57]

@@RickDominick69 Great reply. The issue is always rust. But the bigger issue is lazyness and people who just do not care about the outcome. Many shops will fill dents and paint just to resell quickly for profit. So you are finding these vehicles I'm sure. Its not just wide spread in the industry. People who don't know any better looking for a quick fix do even worse at filling dents instead of manipulating the metal to reduce highs and lows then skim coating over proper materials. At 60 you can definitly learn all there is to know about restoration or combatting rust. And yes we all need a hobby or we get old and die in a few months. I worked in several paint and body shops when younger. Went to trucking then decided to do auto restoration. So since I had mechanical background and paint and body skills, I decided heck I can do this along with the best skilled workers and do it in my own shop in my own time. And make my own money! Its also a matter of pride that we learn and earn or we do things by developing skill level and those of us who have a critical eye can do just about any mirroring of things others have taken years learning. So don't be deterred. Learn as you go and don't waste time criticizing others who never cared to begin with. Just learn how you can do it better and keep improving on skill and technique. You will never be bored with finding trouble with the automobile even if it is manufacturing flaws . They threw these cars together to build their bottom line. Not to do it for the fun of building them. It was big bank, and still is. So what I do instead of foaming over someones ill attempted repair is say Thanks for that! Now I have something I can fix and improve upon. And make money at. But yes its a sad situation and one reason BONDO or fillers have got such a bad rap. Its not the filler. Its not the use of lead, its not the process. Its the questionable souls behind the curtain.

[@MrCbell57]

@@RickDominick69 You are correct. Bondo or filler does absorb moisture. Many materials do. The thing about filler is when done correctly no moisture is able to get to it, and there for it is one of the best repair materials out there when done right. You are on the right track. Question everything. Take nothing for granted. Get information off the net and weed out the bad info along the way by trial and error. Keep it going, keep it cool, keep havin fun.

[@Nobodyofimportance2u]

If they had used kitty hair it would still be fine

[@hunkydude322]

it's obvious the substrate was not sanded with a course grit so the bondo could stick, and in the second place they didnt't use waterproof bondo heck the three stooges could have done a better job at it.

[@petetamari8283]

Use a metal conditioner ,then seal it with a primer surface and it will be clean n protected for 6 mths ,best get its colour n c.o.b. metallic, clear coat n you'll get years of age n protection, my sisters monaro I did in 95 n I spent 4 days cut n polished n I used rock etch for its sealer n it's like new n shiny n no rust where the paints come off n the etch is fine ,just a hint if it's straight etch can be the medium n won't let your panels rust till u can spot repair ,that's a acrylic system which to me is better than 2k systems they can't handle the same as acrylic, great base for enamels on top ,I've coated enamels with acrylic use a soft thinners n seal with a primer surface to colour ,yellow or gold ,red ,Gray black ,white for better hold n reflecting that spectrum stronger ,remember acrylic dries when it's solvents gone n has a good time (rushed,24hrs ) enamels take 2mths ,3mths to finally absorb oxygen n are then hard n workable with in its top coats ,full gloss,to machine n hand rubbing to achieve the best reflection, metal treatment is the most important step, it governs the life of the body, fibreglass,bonds, that they stay firm n clean ,2k can have reverse effects, the inside bubbles or is gone n the paint is now the only thing till it fails ,so clean your steel n at least rust proof internals n keep garaged so it stands a better chance to see you for cruising in better weather, hope that helps you make those repairs worthy for the time money n long-term use till new parts can be used,pigmypete64

[@BearBudgetTurbine]

30 or 40 grit that metal up and it will last a long time, as a leveling skim coat after you pull the dent

[@chriscurry236]

Always, 40-80 grit scuff on bare metal,then filler.

[@SamFBM]

i got about an inch of filler on my rocker panel

[@daleprice8161]

I have been doing body work for a long time even though I have put body filler directly on bare metal and I have put it over primer it works just as good either way I can tell you body filler will adhere to bare metal and do just as good though I'm sure we all have our own ways of doing it ever who did that work didn't really know what they were doing don't look like it's prepped very good to me

[@RickDominick69]

Yeah I'm just trying to figure how to get it done right and try to eliminate these problems before they become issues. I will be posting more videos on a 1979 Stepside need the cab corner and got some Rust issues I need to deal with but that'll be probably a month from now cuz I have to paint a 1990 GMC G10 van

[@daleprice8161]

@@RickDominick69 I'll be watching for them

[@mitchstaff8281]

Probably some kid. I did work like that when I was 16.

[@reddmann2216]

Does OSPHO prevent water absorption on auto metal

[@RickDominick69]

Yes

[@bhmx9480]

That is because you didn't treat the bare metal correctly with an anti-rust product (gel or liquid) before the application of the body filler.

[@neechieandthebrain4481]

I don't get it ?? why you don't have tripod for your camera???

[@RickDominick69]

Phone

[@robertmahaney4271]

Look like the are no grind marks on the bare metal, nothing to bite on

[@Lehmann108]

Yup! Thats the problem.

[@Imwright720]

I’ve only put bondo on bare metal. I thought the can says to grind to bare metal.

[@skrsys]

The metal prep is the problem that you're running into. This video proves that Bondo works better on properly prepped metal than primer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6rVmn-YlrqLfMU

[@paperandmedals8316]

I literally just watched an auto key channel and they said only apply no so to bare metal. So conflicting information. I’ll go with the auto body school channel.

[@michaelnelson9140]

We do!

[@nicsivan5105]

It depends on what kind of filler youre using. I use old school filler which requires you to put over bare metal. Some suggest put on top of Epoxy primer. ( which for prefrence i dont use. ) Both methods are correct it depends how you do upon applying. In my experience I never had an issue body filler cracking due to rust beneath them. But I see filler sags when applied over an Epoxy primer. Whatever the next thing beneath a filler either primer or paint it dtags them down with it. Its primary usage is to correct metal imperfections not to correct primed surface imperfection. Only glazing putty should sit on top of primer.

[@doylewinn3297]

dont put thick bondo on anything people, itll give way

[@stax6057]

bondo isn't supposed to be that thick, that's why it cracked/failed. bondo is supposed to go on bare metal. idk who taught thus guy body work but he needs to read a technical data sheet or 2. and I am a professional body man

[@Protoychevy-mi5ci]

BONDO. BILLY. 😂

[@autovive4605]

1. may be you didn't clean metal properly 2. may be there was some surface rust 3. thickness of Bodyfiller should not be more then 6 mm , you put more Bodyfiller next time use rust neutralizer and rust remover

[@RickDominick69]

I didn't do the original repair. This seems to be a recurring problem I keep running into with others repair jobs

[@racingcowboy58]

Well, you do admit you're not a professional body man. Bondo was not the problem. Poor surface preparation and using Bondo to compensate for bad bodywork by slathering it on. THERE'S your problem.

[@yuvegotmale]

For me it filler over epoxy for over 40 years......always

[@RickDominick69]

For me it's just trying to learn a new skill at 60. I retired and have been working on cars off and on for probably about 40 plus years and you know when you're on a limited budget you have to begin to start figuring out how to make repairs that you normally would pay someone to do and it's a learning curve for me I am enjoying it. Lots of great imput on this video

[@helisean10]

40 years???? I call bullshit buddy. Epoxy primer is a relatively new way of coating automotive bodies for repair. Filler over bare metal has been the standard for as long as filler has been around, which is longer than epoxy primer has been a widely used primer. Most body guys will tell you that for a quick and effective repair, epoxy is not the way to go. Restoration for a personal vehicle or classic/collector is a totally different story. Body shops will almost never use epoxy primer before filler because it takes way too long to dry. That's the real world, where cars are not even supposed to last 20 years anymore, so who cares if your cheap car has a paint job that won't outlast the rest of it? This guy who posted this video has no idea what he is talking about. He said that this is his third project and he knows nothing about body repair and paint, and so this video is very misleading and just plain wrong and uninformed information. Just because he bought 2 or 3 vehicles with rust under the filler means nothing. They were obviously repaired incorrectly. This video should be removed.

[@optimoprimo132]

You apply bondo to bare metal. You just have to prepare the metal. "I'm not a body guy". Now you put out a video telling people that you don't put bondo on bare metal without any info more than that... Problem is that guys who are professional and have done 100s of cars will literally tell you "Body Filler is made to go on bare metal!" But they will show you how to prepare the metal. The important thing is to make sure the metal is sanded with a coarse grit.

[@RickDominick69]

Well, I have seen 100 videos where guys don't put Bondo on bare metal. So it really is a preference. I prefer prepping the metal and then priming it with etching primer and then putting the Dyna glass on and putting as little as possible, not to inches worth

[@juliebrown9543]

Bad example

[@hershelroach2815]

Body filler is bare still only that was a 👎 bad prep job

[@steveguest8028]

That filler is way too thick

[@spanky9915]

Thats 1980s body work!

[@RickDominick69]

80s on a 90s

[@justjim4408]

jim here, to thick and done poorly. we own the LYLE BODY SHOP IN LYLE MN. AND WE KNOW. JUST SAYIN. GOD BLESS

[@RickDominick69]

Well I'm learning fast about poor poorer and 💩. Seems like more 💩 than good work.

[@justjim4408]

@@RickDominick69 we also learn, for over 36 years. GOD BLESS

[@RickDominick69]

@@justjim4408 well heck 60 I've decided that I need a new skill so I'm working on it. So far I don't think I'm doing too bad. There's a guy named Fitzy from New Zealand and he's a very skilled metal worker so I've been watching his channel and picking up all kinds of tips and stuff about getting sheet metal

[@justjim4408]

@@RickDominick69 😀

[@optimoprimo132]

​@@RickDominick69 New Zealand? Uhmm... He is from one of the maritime provinces of Canada. Nova Scotia or Newfoundland I think.

[@gehringer37]

You have no idea what your talking about!!! Every body filler out there recommends you apply the body filler to bare metal or epoxy primer!! Don't listen to this guy! The problem was the filler was to thick and who every done the body work didn't have a clue what they were doing! Just another video with WRONG info!!!

[@RickDominick69]

I tell you what you can come and volunteer to do the body work anytime.

[@MB4LDERRO]

You dont know what your talking about. You suppose to apply bondo to bare metal. That wasnt prepped correctly & applied too thick. Its a door. People open and close it so much. Its flimsy. It will crack over time if done wrong & that what happened.

[@RickDominick69]

Funny how many times I find poorly done bodywork done by professional body shops. What does that say about that field?

[@MB4LDERRO]

@@RickDominick69 im a professional. I work with professionals. Sad to say most of them mentally believe quality over quantity. They just want they commission. Ive seen professionals spray over raw plastic & metal. It depends on the individual. Cause they do not be caring

[@ryanmillsap8645]

This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. The metal was not properly prepped with zero rust before applying filler. Bondo on a proper surface will outlast the paint job as long as there are no pinholes in the metal for moisture to "wick" into the filler.

[@RickDominick69]

Funny thing is that everything I worked on up until this point never had a problem with it. So I can only testify to what I personally have done. So to tell me I don't know what I'm talking about Ariens my own personal experience is a little Cavalier on your part

[@ryanmillsap8645]

@@RickDominick69 ok...you know what your talking about.

[@macistanitrucker4815]

The body work might be as bad as the videography…

[@helisean10]

This guy has no idea what he is talking about. Why would anyone want to be educated by someone with zero experience or education on the topic??

[@RickDominick69]

I did comment on not being a professional body person. And I've also watched a ton of videos and guys have put primer underneath the Bondo I don't use Bondo by the way and all the other repairs that I've made there still standing up quite well. And who says I'm educating anyone? I'm just talking from personal experience how does one learn? By doing.