How to Repair a Rust Hole with Fiberglass - No Welding!

[@1hjehje]

A nice repair. My father and I ran an autobody repair business when I was growing up. It was in Nova Scotia and rust repairs were a large part of our business. I used fibreglass products to repair rust holes on a regular basis. In general, the fibreglass approach lasted much longer than cutting out rusted areas and patching with sheet metal. The approach that you used doesn't burn off the paint and coatings on the back side of the repair area which will will minimize rusting later on. Fibreglass is excellent in that it is not affected by salt or moisture. Thank you for the video.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Harold - thanks for the support and your input - have a good weekend :)

[@robertcampbell5485]

You just answered your own question

[@SamFBM]

@crazymango-6977 yeh rust will come back ALWAYS if using regular steel even if you do everything right. only way it wont is if you use zintec steel , stainless filler , and rust convert the back of the repair (inside the body) then put a rust inhibiting primer on and put an underseal product containing oil behind there too. seems like a lot of effort for throw away cars these days

[@charlesbarr3561]

@@SamFBM thanks for that little bit of key info. You just made up my mind on choosing between sheet metal and fiberglass for my truck's rusted out wheel opening. I thought epoxy primer and sealer was enough.-but I'm also quite new to this. So I'll take any knowledge I can get.

[@harrisiqbal3608]

@@SamFBMI have an e46 m3. I’m stuck as what to do now it’s gonna be a classic car so I wanted it done good but I dunno which approach to take

[@markhubanks3715]

You have no idea how many times I reference your body shop videos, exspecially this one. Thank You!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - thanks for the support Mark. Enjoy the weekend my friend 😊

[@billyhensley7770]

Your videos have helped me so many times thank you sir thumbs up

[@oldscout80]

Just ran across this channel. I have a 2004 Audi, and a 2003 Durango. Both have mid range millage and minor rust from Minnesota winters. It's been years since I've done any rust repair, but I still have some Bondo Hair and fiber glass, & tools, left. I've always loved patching up all my old cars since I took a body shop class in H.S. when I was 15. So I think I'll warm up the garage and get my 80 yr. old ass out there tomorrow and have some fun! Thanks for the great video!

[@mdogg1604]

74 y/o Iowan here. I still love the smell of Bondo!

[@805ROADKING]

Excellent repair Bud!! I fixed my 57 Chevy quarter panel just like that back in 1975, it's still holding up 45 years later!!☺

[@LakesideAutobody]

Excellent! That's great to hear. This method is all my dad ever used for rust repair - I think it was very common in the late 60's, 70's and 80's

[@daisyorpington784]

@805ROADKING I also did my 57 with this method..however it was in 1979... I also still have mine!

[@daisyorpington784]

@@LakesideAutobody Hello! Your videos just showed up in my feed & I am SOO excited.. I have loved cars since I bought my 57 Chevy when 13. ( I STILL have it! ) I like how you explain everything, as well as the old school approach with some new applications and products. Life has went full circle and now again I have time (AND MONEY) to enjoy my vehicles. My 93 Chevy truck has a lot of same areas of repair this 91 does..I am curious as to what brand tape you use? Masking seems to stick more than I remember back then..Again I appreciate the calm walk throughs of every details.. No over the top, loud mouth, over production theatrics. Definitely be back!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@daisyorpington784 Thanks so much for the kind words Daisy - glad you like the channel. I use 3M Automotive Refinish Masking Tape 388N. Feel free to ask ?s - I get to them 1-2 times/day - Jerry

[@tcmits3699]

It's such a shame people don't learn how to tin with a propane torch, and fill with lead, and copper stranded wire as a matrix, such a simple procedure. And is truly permanent and surfaced with JB WELD. Average person doesn't know the difference between polyester, thixotropic or epoxy resins. Your video was very informative, I've done it your way, and it seems to be a 50/50 gamble, it usually does look good but you'll see jobs where It shrinks, cracks or crazes. Thanks for sharing "Lead- Leads"👍

[@drsnooz8112]

This is a great method for people who can't get patch panels, and don't have the skills or money for press brakes, English wheels, MIG welders, etc. In other words, people like me. Thank you!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - that's exactly why I uploaded it :)

[@tracylloyd1124]

Excellent repair! I used to cut and weld patches because it was the old school way. Now this method is all I use. It’s a better quality repair for daily driver vehicles.

[@MrSticks9999]

Steel and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates. Nuff said.

[@USCG.Brennan]

@@MrSticks9999 True, but I've been doing it this way for the past 40 years and it works great in areas like this for a daily driver car.

[@MrSticks9999]

@@USCG.Brennan I would say . . if you just want to cover the rust up cheaply, there's still a better way. At the base of this, it's all about adhesion. You cannot get away with that when using fiberglass. Its going to release. So if there is a better source for adhesion, the repair will last longer.

[@USCG.Brennan]

@@MrSticks9999 If you prepare the area correctly (thoroughly cleaned and scuffed) the fiberglass will stick and hold. I've never had it come loose before or if it did, it took years. However I will say that if you're thinking of fiberglassing a non metal hood scoop on a metal hood (for instance) then yes, they expand and contract at a different rate and WILL separate. Just saying, based on my years of panel repair.

[@terryherrera5252]

Restoration should be removed !!(?)

[@robbflynn4325]

I mentioned this on another one of your videos but I used this technique on the rocker panel of my son's 2007 Yaris. It results in a very very durable repair. Four years later and still solid.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for your input Robb - that's really good to hear. If you can get another 4 or more years of driving a respectable looking car while being proud of being able to do the repairs - that's what it's all about :)

[@robbflynn4325]

@@LakesideAutobody I sourced it for him over 4 years ago, it was a one owner Yaris, 95,000 miles. Paid $4000. Now has over 132,000. He has bought a bigger car, so just sold his Yaris for $4500! Crazy what's going on with used car prices!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@robbflynn4325 Yes it is. Dealerships around me will flat out buy your car from you for a pretty good price - you don't even have to buy anything. They are short on cars - heck Ford doesn't even make cars anymore except for Mustang - weird :)

[@robbflynn4325]

@@LakesideAutobody We have a 2019 Forester, we bought it new in Nov 2018. Recently took it into the dealership for a recall item to be fixed. Salesman came out and spoke to my wife and gave her a sheet of paper with $20,000 offer for it there and then. We did not pay much more than that for it when new, and it now has over 60,000 miles, and remember this is a stealership who aren't exactly renowned at paying top dollar for cars!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@robbflynn4325 That's nuts - I don't get it - things are really crazy since Covid - something sort of small like that can literally throw everything off balance and wreak havoc on the economy.

[@mikesawyer4707]

Jerry, I am obsessed with your videos. I learn a new technique or two everytime you are so easy to follow that gives me plenty of time to take a note or two. Thanks again.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that Mike - makes my day. I'll hopefully keep uploading good info for you my friend. You're welcome :)

[@15farcry]

Would really like to see you do the finishing red paint and clear coat blending. Very good video!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I will have it soon - have a good weekend :)

[@dwaynelejeune3508]

Since you had holes large enough in panel would it be good ideal to spray some ospho or some sort of rust ecapsulator behind the panel. Surly its still has some rust and only will get worse with time from inside out???

[@LakesideAutobody]

True but the main reason it rusted is because of trapped leaves, needles, debris, that get soaked w/ salt water. Just eliminating that will stop the rust - really. Lean a sheet of thin sheet metal up against a fence and it'll be there for the rest of you life because it can drain and dry. You're right too about sealing the back - if you can do that, it would last even longer. Here's a vid on how I prevent rust after the repair: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM - have a good weekend :)

[@dwaynelejeune3508]

Lol not here in SW Louisiana you put a sheet of unprotected metal against a fence and it will be rusted in a week. Lol. Keep up the great vids I watch and learn something each time I watch. Thx

[@Bol3D_Comics]

@@LakesideAutobody Right Nanz from NC

[@elvinbones1812]

That was the most correct way I have seen yet. Specially when you hit them with the cheese grater. That was old school and the gun. Good work!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the support Elvin - I appreciate your comment :)

[@Tattoodtoolow]

actually, the most correct way is to buy a fender.. lipstick on a pig only looks so good for sooo long...

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Tattoodtoolow kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXq2YoeYq5x-rNk

[@discreetfire]

Pretty sweet video from a very experienced, veteran professional. Much success to Lakeside Autobody!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Rob, I appreciate your support. Have a good weekend :)

[@stewartbruce8902]

Jerry, Your video's are superbly executed, with your easy to follow directions coupled with a delightful personalty. You have inspired me to repair the old vehicles in my driveway rusting away over the years. I only wish it was springtime as we are headed toward the winter, and the work will have to wait. thank you, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I really appreciate that Stewart - makes my day. My kid was just in Dunkirk, Buffalo, and Albany NY - he liked it. I'm glad the videos inspire you and if you ever have ?s just ask. Thanks for the support and you're welcome too :)

[@stewartbruce8902]

@@LakesideAutobody Not only `do you produce an informative tutorial; you also reply promptly. What else could a student of the you tube classroom ask for. My gratitude sent back to you!!

[@stewartbruce8902]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for the timely reply, and I am sure you inspired countless others as well as me in the youtube classroom. Looking forward to spring time, and for now only the best for you Jerry and family.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@stewartbruce8902 You're welcome Stewart - I'm glad you like the videos. The best to you and your family too - Happy Thanksgiving my friend - Jerry

[@timp8489]

Hi Jerry, is your shop in Lakeside California? Near San Diego.

[@sunriseiwinc5173]

With your assistance I'm repairing my Ford E 250 2006. I live in New York and the snow caused serious damaged on the bottom of it. I've been learning with your video. THANK YOU SO MUCH.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad the videos help out. Feel free to ask questions - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)

[@benjigray8690]

Thank you for making this great, easy to follow, instructional video. I'm fairly certain that untolds of folks will find this video very helpful, when they have a go at using fibreglass to repair stuff. I'm a '57 model, and I'm always learning stuff, especially from videos like this one. My Late father told me; (after I'd made a real mess of a job). I thought that he was going to call me a fool. But instead, he said. The only folks tat never make mistakes are those that never do anything.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That last line there is so very true. The only way to stay completely safe is never leave the house :)

[@heredeemedme7013]

Bro I appreciate your channel! Just picked up a ‘94 E350 Club Wagon with a high top and your channel is going to be a game changer for me. It’s got the 7.5L engine but it’s got some rust on it!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I love big old vans like that - I had a 1986 Dodge B250 high top conversion van - came with a factory CB!, power bed, rear air - just awesome to travel in :) Ask ?s if you need - glad you like the channel :)

[@tomgoffnett5624]

I could watch these videos all day. I've always wanted to be a welder and body repair man. Another great video. Thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Tom - Thanks for the support - enjoy the weekend :)

[@tomgoffnett5624]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. You have a great weekend too. 👍

[@joslynanderson5644]

Beautiful video genius of a repair a joy to watch a true craftsman at work loved it mate bless you .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Bless you too my friend and thanks so much for the kind words - have a good week 🛠

[@TractorWrangler01]

You should try soaking the fiberglass cloth on a flat work surface first then pick it up and place it on the damaged area. I think you will find it will go much faster and easier. You still have to work it into the surface but now your cloth is loaded with resin and you're not having to try to soak it upside down. Gravity is your friend. :-)

[@LakesideAutobody]

Hey man - I had blinders on! Good idea. That would work real well - thanks for the input :)

[@chanceisaac2691]

That's the way we do it on boat repairs soak the patches then work it in make sure you have no air bubbles.

[@charlesbarr3561]

Thanks for posting this. Again, HIGHLY educational for me. I can tell you that had I not watched this, I was headed for a major mistake with the fiberglass netting/resin. Thanks also for telling us specifically what supplies you're working with. ,👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Charles. This was actually taught in trade schools and used in body shops for some years before MIG welders - like maybe 60's-70's :)

[@michaelmclaren8950]

I always learn new tricks and tips from your videos! I don't know why bondo has a bad wrap. I've never understood that way of thinking. It works great!

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's used every day in every body shop and dealership across the nation and you'd never know it because they use it correctly. Heck yeah it works great.

[@uchoward1ify]

This is not Bondo plastic filler , this is fiberglass cloth soaked in fiberglass resin which is waterproof ,topped with fiberglass filler ( Bondo glass ) .Bondo plastic filler is not waterproof , it's only good for a cosmetic repair .

[@nickkerr4893]

If you just used rust reformer before filling fiber glass then it would be perfect. Because it stops the rust

[@backyardinventor9580]

Man oh man that’s a blast from the past, when I was young I had many rust buckets and that was my no.1 way of fixing them. Now in my older years still use that method once in awhile but now been using West system epoxy now, does take longer to cure. Far less brittle than fiberglass resin and if you can get to the back side and coat it with epoxy it encapsulates the rust better. Good stuff buddy I just subbed to your Channel.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - that's good to hear. Here's one you might like too:kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYPPYoScoNd1m7s - Glad you subscribed :)

[@jimurrata6785]

Yup! Epoxy is adhesive, polyester is just a filler. West System will hold like crazy to clean metal.

[@lcar9871]

@@LakesideAutobody Here's another thumbs up for West System. I bought it a couple years ago when I had to replace the floor of my boat. VERY easy to work with. A gallon can of resin and a quart can of hardener, each with their own pump. The pumps are like what you'd find on orange hand cleaner, but they are metered to match the system. So, 3 pumps from the resin and 3 from the hardener - no guessing - mix it up and go. Store it away with the pumps in the cans. Keeps the contents clean and ready for next time. Thanks for another great video Jerry!

[@davesilvia9711]

been using west system for over 20 years on wood and metal. Works Great!

[@backyardinventor9580]

@@davesilvia9711 I've been using it for 40 years now, from building boats and everything else. Good stuff

[@jd3552]

This reminds me of going to the dentist, job well done, you are a real artistisan.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks JD :)

[@Here_we_grow_again]

First off, you provide great content! I am knee deep in restoring my jeep to give to me son. Frame, floors and ALL driveline, suspension and steering has been rebuilt or replaced. I have just started laying into the body work and am having serious issues with all types of fillers due to heat and humidity. Polyester glaze sets up too fast wasting silly amounts of money. Metal 2 metal putty was doing the same so cut the harder in half and it never set. With sadness and frustration I spent 5 hours removing it all. I was forced to by original bondo to continue tomorrow but am worried about its durability and longevity. Wish things went as easy in diy as they do in the videos lol

[@LakesideAutobody]

Don't bother with expensive fillers or fancy brands. Get yourself a gallon of basic filler, right around 25-30 bucks. Use less hardener and you'll be just fine. Start by using half of what you've been using and if it still hardens too fast cut it in half again. Please let me know how it goes for you. Feel free to ask as many ?s as you need - I get to them 1-2 times a day. I'm doing a video on filler selection this month so it should help you out a bit :)

[@azamizi]

thank you for all your videos, this is much better and more practical than all those restoration youtubers.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - I appreciate your comment :)

[@brianhaley4471]

Enjoying your videos. If the rust is originating on the underside of the panel, shouldn't there be some kind of rust neutralizer & coating to protect it going forward?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can use anything that you think will help. Here's what I find works the best after trying tons of different things - kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM

[@BlueRidgeJ79]

Thanks for showing. I've got some rust spots around the back of a truck cab I want to try this on.

[@martindoyle766]

I always spray a rust killer inside the hole all over the inner area and inner panel to keep rust at bay on the inner parts then fill it it never hurts to add as much rust protection as possible great video do you use this method on lower sills also that are not near jack points very nice job 💯🤔👍

[@qmangillett]

Thank you for teaching this technique. I had zero idea how to do this but im certain ill be back to rewatch this when i get a chance to restore my 1946 Dodge D24 Sedan.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome. Make sure your panels can drain and dry out inside - it will last a long time that way :)

[@paulcondie2520]

I just dip my already cut piece of cloth in the resin then apply. I also after about a week after job is complete I get up behind the patch and soak with oil. Helps so it takes along while for rust to come back. I did my ranger in same spot really similar over a year ago and still hasn't bubbled yet! Great video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - great to hear. Have a good weekend :)

[@rudsaki]

Thanks for this! My Bondo Glass did not look green after adding the red hardner, but it seemed to go on and harden well

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's OK - it probably looked a bit brown. I used blue hardener which made it blue/green and you used red hardener which made it look brown. The color of the hardener doesn't make any difference. Some companies have blue, red, yellow, etc. Jerry

[@joeyv1969]

Awesome video!!! You make it look so easy. I have a 1972 K5 Blazer that the tin worm has invaded. I’m going to try the cloth on some of the spots. Thanks for this video!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

As long as the panel can drain and dry out inside it will last quite long :)

[@60chevyjim]

my truck in the picture had the same spot on the fender rusted out but much worse. so i made a metal repair panel and glued it in with short strand fiberglass . it has been over 7 years since i fixed it and painted the truck and not one bubble . i have been using the same kind of 7 inch cp grinder since around 1973.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the input 60Chevy :)

[@andyvitale6071]

Perfect explanation and perfect video for what I need thanks for sharing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Andy :)

[@brianandrews7099]

I am doing this work to my ‘64 Plymouth Barracuda. I wanted to see how you were doing it compared to how I am doing it. After grinding back the rust and tapping back the metal in the effected area with the body hammer as you did here, I have been applying fish oil based rusty metal primer to the rusted, pitted areas with a small, cheap art brush (trying to get some of the primer on the back side around the perimeter of the rusted holes whenever possible), let it cure, then fill the holes directly with the long strand fiberglass “Bondo Glass”. On the holes larger than 1/4”, I have been applying the Bondo Glass to the back side of duct tape, then placing the tape over the rust hole and pressing inward around the edges of the hole to force the excess filler into the hole, letting the material harden, then removing the tape. Doing so, I find that I can better control the thickness of the filler in the patch and the wet filler doesn’t “collapse” when being spread and leaving a hole or a thin are in the patch. I wouldn’t have though to use fiberglass mat and resin first, instead of the duct tape method; I would have assumed that I would sand through it trying to level it with the existing surface and the areas over the rust hole would be too weak or just fall out? But, clearly your making it work! These areas where the back side of the rust through are inaccessible are my most worrisome. It would be great if I could clean, treat and add fiberglass back of the panel to insure the patchs hold, but what are you gonna do? Wherever possible, I want to try to let some two part epoxy run down and cover the backside of these repairs to seal them and add some strength as well as drilling some drain hole at the bottom of the lower panels and running a wire through them to make sure there is a clear runoff for any water to escape. Outside of cutting out the panel, repairing it, and welding in back in place (which is beyond my skill set, schedule, and budget), I feel like this is the best I can do.

[@LakesideAutobody]

As long as a panel can drain and dry out inside it will not rust - no moisture = no rust. Lean a thin sheet of bare sheet metal up against a chain link fence and it will be there for 20 years. Try to make sure you clean out the panel best you can and make sure there is a way for the water to escape or drain. Then fix it how ever you can do best 👍😊

[@BeADad2447]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I know it's time consuming making these videos! Thank you!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad you like them - it does take up my time but I make a little extra cash and it helps some folks out so I guess it's my niche.

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Great video as always Jerry you have the best bodywork videos on KZbin hands down!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I appreciate that coming from you - your jobs always look real straight. I bought the Spectrum spray gun from HF because of your video - it hasn't come in the mail yet though. Black Widow is on sale for 149 :) Have a great weekend - hopefully the woeful Lions do better against Washington.

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

@@LakesideAutobody Let me know your thoughts on the spectrum and yes hopefully the Lions do well...enjoy your weekend Jerry!

[@robertsimmons1716]

Great video can't wait to get to work on my '59 Studebaker!

[@kevinsaint20]

Question: Can you drill a hole through this type of repair? I’ve got some rocker panels that are rusted pretty bad around where the running boards attach. Or would it be better to just cut the holes out of the fabric before applying the resin? Thanks brother!

[@frankkennedy5361]

I like how you cut down the larger sanding disc to repurpose it for the smaller grinder. Very practical. If you were to do the same repair with the inexpensive Harbor Freight flux core welder, would you have cut out the weak metal and overlapped a patch of new 20g sheet metal then body fill, prime etc.?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes Here's a video on exactly what you are talking about - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmmak2SuoayinNk

[@frankkennedy5361]

Thank you Jerry. I have learned and applied many of the techniques you have demonstrated. My execution is not nearly as good as yours, but good enough. My restoration is a driver, not a show car. My wife and neighbors are impressed. You deserve a fair amount of the credit for sharing your skills. Thanks again. Will continue to watch your videos on bodywork and keep up with tools you endorse.@@LakesideAutobody

[@ronhonig]

Thanks for sharing. I like the detailed step by step approach you show.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - thanks for the support. Have a good week :)

[@Zumone1one]

Fantastic video I'm going to try this! Only thing I'm wondering is why you didn't use a rust inhibitor before the rest of the process

[@LakesideAutobody]

Rust inhibitor would help along with making sure the fender can drain and that you coat the back if possible or squirt some used motor oil inside after the paint has been applied.

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

You do great practical work and your passion is still there !! ❤️👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Paul. I appreciate your kind words - have a great weekend :)

[@lawncuttingplusdelta]

@@LakesideAutobody means a lot that you Reoly !!! …., I am Good and you remind me in good 👍🏻 lol….

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@lawncuttingplusdelta 👍😊✌

[@leesanders6490]

Wow, that brings back memories.

[@robertstaff]

Thats a great lesson. Thx. What would happen if you only used the reinforced filler without fibreglass layers?

[@LakesideAutobody]

That can work real well too - if there's not a big hole. Here's an example of what you are talking about: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk

[@robertstaff]

@@LakesideAutobody thats great! Thx

[@chanceisaac2691]

Dam this dude makes it look so easy. I just want to go do it for fun. Great video very inspiring.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Chance - have a good week :)

[@yojoebananas]

You can tell he’s a pro. Repair looks perfect and technique is very efficient and spot on

[@stebenit]

excellent repair did you treat the rust on the inside and protect with a rubber underseal..

[@LakesideAutobody]

No but that's a good idea if you can access it. Drainage is really important too. Thanks for the support and comment Steve :)

[@ALT_RIGHT]

Nice work would like to see you do rocker panels cab corners and Fender rust in the same manner that video would be good

[@theidlehandsworkshop3884]

Nice job, I was looking for an alternative to welding because I'm restoring our horse trailer and there's just so much rust I'll be there for the next 20 years chasing it all down, thankfully it's all cosmetic and the structural parts are all good still. Going to have a look at that Bondo Glass you used, thanks for sharing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Fiberglass reinforced filler works great for projects like that too - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk - the stuff is water proof :)

[@theidlehandsworkshop3884]

@@LakesideAutobody awesome, my biggest thing to deal with is the fact my horse weighs 1 ton by himself which means the trailer has to be reinforced all over because well.... he weighs 1 ton lol

[@jayrharris21]

Great video! For the experts out there, I am considering a combination of the techniques shown here along with welding. I have a large rust spot and given the location, it would be difficult to butt weld. I was thinking about welding a backer plate, building up with fiber glass, and finishing with bondo. Any issues with doing this?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I can't think of any. Why not just use fiberglass reinforced filler instead of fiberglass cloth. It's waterproof and sticks a bit better to metal. You're Idea is fine too - make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside.

[@jayrharris21]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the response! I did not mention fiberglass reinforced filler because I did not know that was a thing! Thanks for the advice! I am definitely putting some weep holes in. Fortunately, the car will be garage kept moving forward and won't be driven in the rain if I can help it.

[@BLOLite]

Excellent tips,thanks,I am encouraged to extend a similar lawn mower deck fibre repair,which worked very well,full ongoing adhesion despite heavy operational vibration,to my car,about which I have been hesitant till now. For sea salt, try coastal Cornwall,and for arch rust, try my 21yr old Vauxhall Astra,its only body issue. Good comment above about non burning retaining rhe inner paint and coating as it reduces further rust too.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for your input Andy - have a good weekend :)

[@BLOLite]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks,you too. You're a tidier worker than me- I'd have covered the tyre with an old cloth to be safe!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@BLOLite Oh you are right - my dad would be disappointed with me if he saw things unprotected like that tire or the panel adjacent to the one that's being worked on. I was always in a hurry 😊

[@BLOLite]

@@LakesideAutobody Any advice on fixtures into GRP? I haveva hinge to refix on a GRP ie fibetglass boat and wonder if just resin in the old holes redrilled can be used,or with glass,or a separate epixy filler best. I though resin might clog the job.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@BLOLite You might want to try the epoxy. Like - rough the holes up a bit with a burr, drill bit or sand paper and fill with JB Weld. Let me know what you end up using Andy :)

[@MrCbell57]

Good job dude. I like clean work. You could even fill the craters with cat hair or short strand fiberglass. We always use fiberglass for many of our crumpled areas that are so bad we just can’t dolly the metal back. Customers prefer it over replacing expensive body parts! Like quarters and fenders. Doing Fiberglass repair is like having a proven to work cheat sheet! What sits next to our gallon of filler on our work carts? A gallon of dyno glass!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Rick - that truck is in my garage right now getting a lower quarter patch panel. That fender still looks fine - I actually surprised 'cause the guy drives it year round on salty winter roads and it sits outside.

[@yusuihang]

I was going to use metal reinforced bondo with a stainless steel wire mesh to patch a hole in metal stairs. Any thoughts on pros and cons of that vs fiberglass?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I think fiberglass would be stronger for sure. If there is a lot of heavy traffic I would weld, rivet or screw a plate then fill if needed.

[@squirrelattackspidy]

You did an amazing job and made it look so easy. I had just picked up some bondo glass for the filler, thinking that would be enough. Then realized I need to get some bondo body patch because it's a fender and the more I touched the rust, the more pieces fell off. But then watched your video and realized the solution is use the fiberglass first on the hole and then the bondoglass over it. I could buy the filler, but it's an old car and it doesn't have to be cosmetically perfect, just waterproof. So I'll sand down the rust. Use alcohol or vinegar to clean off the rust powder. Then spray rust reformer and let it dry. Then fiberglass over the hole. Then bondo glass. Sand and then paint over it.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sounds like a plan - just make sure it's really roughed up before you put the fiberglass cloth on - that stuff likes to stick to freshly sanded/ground metal. Let me know how it goes for you :)

[@tjbabyboy3125]

Can I sheet off my care flow inside large portion of it with fibreglass on the sheet metal

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - I think it would do what you need it to do - fiberglass sticks well to metal

[@fashionstreet1]

I'm like 👍 the drum roll in the background awesome well done 😮

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 😊

[@ciensuk]

Nice repair, I have 2 question: 1. Can I just use regular Bondo after fiberglass cloth? how many layer needed? Any guide? 2. I got hole inside my trunk; can I just put those fiberglass cloth + Bondo on inside side? Or? Thanks before, any info are appreciated

[@LakesideAutobody]

1) yes - one coat is enough 2) yes - just try to wire brush and spray the underside with undercoating if you can.

[@ciensuk]

​@@LakesideAutobodythank you for the answer mate, appreciate it

[@jptrainor]

I've used Bondo with chopped glass to repair a large rust hole in a hood at the front lip. The local auto body shop wanted $2k to replace the entire hood. They claimed that anything other than replacement would fail "in a year". My repair hasn't failed, eight years later. Still driving the car. Even funnier, or more disappointing, the hole in the hood was the result of a failed professional repair about six years earlier that rusted away under their filler, which was in turn under one of those clear plastic hood protection films. My driveway repair has lasted longer and looks fine (for an old well used car). It's barely noticeable unless you lift the hood and examine closely.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Great story Jim - it all depends on how it was done - can the panel drain, stay dry, etc. Lots of factors. Thanks for you input and support 👍

[@jeffreylonigro1382]

Oddball question: why are there holes in the back of a pickup truck cab corner? And are the removable plugs on a rocker panel for rustproofing or cleaning or both?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I think they have something to do with assembly, ventilation?, not sure, You can remove them and clean if you want - can be used for rust proofing too if needed. Great ? - let me know if you ever find out why there' large holes punched in panels and then plugged :)

[@morefiles1]

Bondo Glass works out much better and takes less time. Depends on what your preference is. This is a great video!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks GGL - have a good weekend :)

[@darrelllayton196]

I noticed that the body filler you applied extends over onto the painted surface that was not ground down to metal. I thought that the filler should be applied to bare metal. Your thoughts please.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right and when/where I worked that was frowned upon. You can get away with it most of the times but it can lead to seeing sand scratches - usually where the filler meets the paint. If the paint has been DA sanded with like 120 before the filler you'll be fine. Safest bet though is to remove the paint further than your filler will reach. You'll never have problems with adhesion though - filler sticks well to bare metal, primer or DA sanded paint :)

[@waqasaslam4920]

I was searching for the same method finally i found. But you should also tell what materials you are using thanks for the information

[@LakesideAutobody]

Sorry - I do now on my newer videos. I will be uploading a similar video this Friday with all the same materials used in this video :)

[@danielschwarz3066]

Good work, can you do this on the area above the wheel or was that to big of an area for fiberglass? Thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

That can be done. I'll keep my eyes open for a fender that needs it and make the video. Thanks for the suggestion :)

[@Healthfighthunt]

Do you need to treat the metal to stop rust coming back, or does the glass protect like epoxy?

[@LakesideAutobody]

The most important thing is to make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside. Clean out all the debris, mud and moisture and add drain holes if you have to. If you can undercoat the back side - great - if not you can squirt some oil inside the panel after the repair - it will creep around and coat the bottom of the panel - you're aim is like an old valve cover inside :)

[@TyCrawford]

So I've got a garbage MIG welder, have limited welding experience, and probably just as much fiberglass experience. However, my current project car still needs repairs done to its windshield frame. A couple holes in the vertical surface between my roof skin and the rim the windshield sits on. I've had no real issue getting all the rust out, but I've been going back and forth on whether to use glass/epoxy/resin or to attempt welding in a patch. This video is leading me to think I should really consider fiberglass, lest I warp that roof skin through inadequate welding.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You could try fiberglass first - if that doesn't work lightly MIG weld a patch in :)

[@TyCrawford]

@@LakesideAutobody my current approach is actually to panel bond a patch in, although I'm really thinkin I might have a chance at welding one in. More important to me to get this car driving, its been 3 years and I've never driven it, and can always come back and do it differently later (like install a full carbon fiber roof skin)

[@lotharofthehillpeople4381]

Very nice work! It helped a lot. Getting started on my vehicle tomorrow.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Cool - let me know if you have any questions. Try to make sure the panel is clean inside and can drain and dry out. It will last quite long if it can.

[@lotharofthehillpeople4381]

@@LakesideAutobody Awesome! Thanks for responding.

[@scottnusser6232]

Very nice. Done it just like that on my own rigs and for some buddies. Lasts very well👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - it does hold up as long as there is drainage. Has to dry out inside :)

[@lydiaajohnson]

The din roller is for pushing out all the air pockets between the layers of glass.

[@sivucit]

Hi can I use regular bondo instead of fiberglass filler for rust hole pls advise the advantage of using fiberglass filler

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can use regular. Fiberglass reinforced filler is water proof and a bit stronger because of the fiberglass strands. I've used regular filler many times with the same result. Make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside to prevent future rust :)

[@michaelmclaren8950]

Can you make a video showing how to make an edge fold if there isn't one because of rust. Like if the corner of that spot on the car was gone. How do you make build a corner?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I will. In the mean time check these videos out - they may help - kzbin.info/www/bejne/fprah4eJjquaeJY

[@1000hpwnd]

Nice work! Would be interesting to see how it holds now.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'll do a follow up video soon as this guy is in the neighborhood :)

[@daviddowns7552]

i would be willing to bet it would out last the original metal. my opinion only..help me out on this one. lol.

[@stara808]

ANY chance this could withstand stress=having a hood bolt thru it? The base on my old 2000honda rusted thru right where that bolt holds the hood hinge??? thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good question. I think JB Welding a patch in that spot would be stronger but you could always give it a try. Here's a video on using JB Weld (cab corner is still in good shape almost 4 years now) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYPPYoScoNd1m7s

[@michaelvandenhoy1021]

I wish I would have known about this 30 years ago. Thanks for sharing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Michael - have a good week :)

[@skualpascal6684]

OK, I figured out to do same on our W200, but my concern is to get access w/o removing the front fender of my car. About this vid' : didnt you treat the inside of the rotten metal ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Make sure the panel can drain and dry - add drain holes if needed. That's most important. Then this - kzbin.infoglxS7PhK1TI

[@skualpascal6684]

sorry !! I meant "get access to the rust hiding behind" the front area I got to treat.

[@jaxjaxson]

Do you think you even needed to put the F-G cloth on 1st? Holes were pretty small, Bondo says the short hair FG filler can cover 1/2" and Long hair 1" holes?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good thinking. This repair is still good today (about 5 years now) - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk

[@jaxjaxson]

@@LakesideAutobody got it thanks for the link. I had some decent rust in lower panel also and I fiberglass resin clothed it. I was gonna just normal bondo over it but your making me feel guilty now thinking if I should bondo glass over it now 😵

[@flowergarden1426]

Do I need to buy one of those hammers or would a Philips screw driver work. I’d hate to spend the money on a one time thing, just doing rocker panels. Also what brand do you recommend because I bought some yesterday and the sales guy said to wear gloves because it will eat up my hands and I’m wondering if I should have bought the bondo brand instead, the other brand was cheaper. I also bought fluid film to slow the rust and going to paint it with POR. He also said it wasn’t necessary to put bondo over the resin?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Phillips will work. It will not eat up your hands - no brand will eat up your hands - you have nothing to worry about. Keep some lacquer thinner around for clean up if you want to save brushes or wipe off hands. Wearing gloves is obviously safer but fiberglass resin is not aggressive at all 👍

[@jerrywilson2146]

I've never used fiberglass before but have a job on my car, similar to that of your video. I was just wondering if you could elaborate on a difference of plain filler or fiberglass concerning adhesion to expanding and contracting metal.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You will never have a problem with filler or fiberglass being affected by the expansion and contraction of metal. There is not enough exp. and cont. to have a negative effect.

[@V84ever]

In your opinion, which would give a stronger repair... The fiberglass mat or the fiberglass cloth??

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've used both and it doesn't seem to matter. I would think the cloth though - just my opinion ✌

[@V84ever]

@@LakesideAutobody yes that's what I was thinking. Love your channel brother I learned so much keep teaching!

[@darrenjones9504]

Fantastic job 👍👍 Never seen the cheese grater used here in the UK. Nice one 👍👍👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍 sure speeds things up and no dust :)

[@lichitos1970]

Hi can I apply Bond Hair Long Strand Fiberglass Reinforced Filler instead cloth? Thanks and good job.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes, you can do that too under certain circumstances like this video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIG3kph-ZZpppMk

[@jeffs-zw2zb]

Do collision body shops typically do this kind of work?

[@LakesideAutobody]

No but they used to. It was a very common task in many smaller shops to take on rust repair. I don't think it's the case today just because there's no one that can do it or has the knowledge anymore. I think they'd rather replace everything :)

[@LetsHikeRhodeIsland]

On my 4runners quarters there's parts that ate completely rusted out. Can I just use this fiberglass thread to cover it??

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes but it's good to make sure the metal is clean before applying the resin and material. A sand blaster works best but if you don't have that use some good sharp sand paper or wire brush.

[@Grunchy005]

I wonder if a guy shouldn't do some etching primer or some sealing coat to the bare metal prior to the epoxy + fibreglass?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'm writing that down and will get to a video on that - like how well the fiberglass sticks to the epoxy or etching primer. I'm sure it would work fine as fiberglass resin is very similar to filler resin and filler sticks fine to epoxy primer :)

[@debaia]

Is it a long time repair? The rust seems to be enormous...it makes holes

[@jeffdickson125]

Do you use any kind of wash primer or acid to treat the bare metal before priming? Or does your primer have a built in etch of some kind? Just curious

[@LakesideAutobody]

I don't but one boss of mine used to make us use the rust converter acid stuff. I think it worked well but myself I just try to make sure I sand blast the rust and make sure there's none or very little to treat. I'm sure it can't hurt :)

[@seanmcdougall8263]

Phenomenal video, thank you, im trying to get a 06 suburban saftied, and no one around can fit it in for 3 months, so im trying myself. May be great or i might have to just stick with electrical....

[@LakesideAutobody]

Give it a try - might be an unknown talent you have - thanks for watching :)

[@LibertyOrD___h]

Doing fiberglass body repair on my 03 suburban as we speak… the body work is the easiest, it’s the painting that requires alot of skill

[@salatiello1956]

Jerry, your videos are top notch! Love the way you walk through your procedures. Clear and easy to follow along. I don't have air tools.. but I do have the electric 7" HF polisher/sander (one of your top ten tools from HF) as well as the hand tools you use (cheese grater, hand block and medium length long board). What would you recommend in terms of which sandpaper grits I should keep on hand? Both for the circular type and hand block, long board?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that Bob - glad you like the videos. All you really need is 36 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit and 400 - that's it Those grits can do everything in the shop. I will do a sand paper guide video soon to address that topic :)

[@hoosiered471]

Thanks for showing a "detailed" method of patching without using metal/welding.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome 😊

[@marcbmdg]

great video. new subscribe. How long can you wait until you paint if vehicle stays inside? Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

As long as you want. I'd hit it real quick with a DA after waiting a really long time though - just to freshen up the metal and prepare it for primer, etc.

[@nolanisaverage-hy8mz]

How long do you wait to cheese grate it? You say before it’s not too hard but how long is that normally?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's about as hard or the consistency of a block of parmesan cheese or a pencil eraser. Basically about 10 minutes but it depends on how "hot" you mixed it and the temperature in the shop - also winter or summer. I sit by it myself and if it clogs the grater, I wait. Just when it doesn't clog the teeth anymore, you're good to go :)

[@nolanisaverage-hy8mz]

@@LakesideAutobodyThank you! I appreciate it, I didn’t expect such a fast reply to such an old video lol

[@V84ever]

Is this a better repair than using say Bondo glass filler? Does the resin seal the bare metal no priming needed? Lastly how waterproof is the fiberglass resin cloth process you did? Great videos as always thank you!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Truthfully if you can somehow make sure that the panel can quickly drain and dry out inside both methods will last quite a few years. It's good to make sure that you clean out all the debris, rust chunks, leaves, etc. - anything that can hold moisture. You don't have to prime the metal first using either method. If you can under coat the back side or seal it somehow - even better. (Cosmoline RP-342 works great for that.) Both the fiberglass reinforced filler and the cloth and resin are waterproof.

[@V84ever]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. You mention cosmoline I remember that stuff from back in the 80s when I was working at a dealership detailing cars. I remember that stuff was on the bumpers it was a real pain in the butt to clean off. Back in the day....

[@garymccloskeyjr.6265]

What do you do on the backside of the panel? Brush resin over it to encapsulate the rust? Also, I'm guessing rust won't be able to pop through the resin area once it's encapsulated right?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You are absolutely right. If you took the fender off and sand blasted the back side after the repair and sprayed it real nice with under coating, it would last very long - no moisture - no rust :) That's why you want to make sure it can dry out in there and not hold water and debris.

[@ItchyKneeSon]

Well, I'm glad my (unintentional) winter project has taken longer than expected and has yet to be painted. Our nemesis, CAR CANCER!!!, strikes again; rust bubbles formed and penetrated the primer in some spots. Also, I had one spot on the roof crack. I ground it out with a Dremel, added Bondo Glass, and then a slather of Bondo Body Filler. I believe the crack was from hosing down the car when it was outside after a surprise snow. Let's hope it goes better this time around.

[@LakesideAutobody]

What kind of crack are you talking about - a crack in the metal, bondo glass, or bondo?

[@ItchyKneeSon]

@@LakesideAutobody I'm pretty sure I used too much Bondo. It was on the roof at the front d-side corner just above the windshield.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ItchyKneeSon It really doesn't matter how much filler you used if the surface under the filler is prepared correctly. Let me know what you decide to do - curious as to why that cracked. Keep me updated IKS :)

[@TheJefferson84ful]

Essa fita é a fibra de vidro certo? Notei que é diferente daquela com aspecto de lã. Essa fita é a mesma que se usa em reparos de gesso? Por que a fita telada para gesso, tem fibra de vidro

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes it's fiber glass - the same stuff you would use to fix a boat. Sí, es fibra de vidrio, el mismo material que usarías para arreglar un barco. If you have more questions just ask :)

[@TheJefferson84ful]

@@LakesideAutobody @LakesideAutobody Thank you, I really like automotive repairs, I have a VW Kombi, I confess that I was scared by the rot on the salon door column, it spread to the wheel well, it corroded part of the internal column, I'm discouraged

[@LakesideAutobody]

MIG welders are great for those types of repairs. Here's how easy it is to weld if you can get a cheap welder - kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3O8on-DlNKMZ9U You can also use a cheap flux core welder too but gas is easier to use. kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5SaeKqcbd5nj8U - @@TheJefferson84ful

[@TheJefferson84ful]

​@@LakesideAutobodythank you my brother!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome my friend - enjoy the week :)@@TheJefferson84ful

[@TartsHouseOfMuscle]

Can someone tell me if it would be ok to spray the bare metal with epoxy primer before applying fiberglass like in this repair ? Or to only apply fiberglass over bare metal ? Thanks also I’ll be using Bondo fiberglass cloth and Bondo fiberglass resin.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've never really heard of doing that but I imagine it would work out fine - sort of the same stuff as body filler - resin, etc. Maybe try a practice panel or test it out. If the resin feathers into the primer when sanded and doesn't peel or break away, you're good to go :)

[@skeenslawpllc2130]

Hi! I have another quick question. I'm restoring an old truck and the metal in the bed is in great shape, except that it has a lot of little scratches that have surface-rusted over the years. Would you recommend I grind down each of those tiny little nicks and then fill over each of them? I was thinking I might por-15 the whole inside of the bed just because it seems faster. Any tips for working smarter and not harder at this? Thanks for all you do!

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's always been a tough job. These are very fast for getting in all the ribs but they don't remove the scratches. The right way is to feather edge all of the scratches prime, block, etc. but that is way too much work. You could prep best you can with a DA & the HF abrasive wheel then throw in a plastic bed liner.... That's what I like to do. You could also have Line-x spray in a nice thick bed liner which would cover a lot of it. Last if you want it looking factory, you could scuff it, DA, abrasive wheel it, primer with feather fill (thick poly primer) smooth it with a DA taking out the scratches and paint - that's work too though. Those are a few choices I can think of - let me know what you end up doing :)

[@richardthaxton8469]

Water causing rust was the original problem, so what is going to stop the rust on the inside from continuing to eat away at the metal from behind the repaired spot?

[@LakesideAutobody]

The salt water and debris gets trapped in there (originally) leaving a pile of salt soaked leaves and dirt which is bad. If you allow for drainage (even drill a big hole in the back side so it can drain and stay dry that's great. You can even check it now and then - flush it out when you wash the car by squirting water in there. If you can rust proof it or seal the back side, even better. It's not as good as welding for sure but this video is for those that don't weld. See this video for how I rustproof after the repair: studio.kzbin.infoy05dNxt-nVc/edit We'll see: It's my neighbors truck so I'll do a follow up video in a few years to show how its doing.

[@V84ever]

The master at work!!

[@seanbailey5244]

About how did you wait before using the grater, I know you said before it dries but I’d imagine not immediately either after the bondo, so how should I wait?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It depends on the temperature in the garage and how much hardener you used. Rule of thumb is this - sit by it and wait with your cheese grater - when it gets as hard as a block of parmesan cheese try the grater. If it clogs, it's too early clean out the clogged teeth try again in a few. If you waited too long you know for sure because the grater won't do anything - won't cut it :) You'll get used to when you can cheese grate - you'll never not do it after you get it :)

[@seanbailey5244]

@@LakesideAutobody ok thanks i appreciate it, I have multiple spots to hit going around the truck so maybe as I'm moving around to different spots it'll dry, I don't need it to look perfect as much as I do to be flat, as my plan is to vinyl wrap the truck after a cover and flatten each rust spot, so if I end up grating to soon and have to come back over it later the imperfections won't concern me much, thank you for the advice and the video

[@ralphjacquillard8326]

I was always told that it won't last and welding is the only solution. However I put stuff called tiger hair on a Oldsmobile it held for as long as I can remember. What I'm asking is will this repair last? It should be waterproof.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Make sure the panel can drain and dry out inside - has to be clean in there. - kzbin.info/www/bejne/qmK6lJ-KlKyArM0

[@ralphjacquillard8326]

@LakesideAutobody thanks for that appreciate it.