Why Does This Keep Happening? ⎪Shocking Reason This Daikin Stopped Working! (U0 Fault Explained)

[@GeneralAvitation]

Great repair but couldn’t help but notice the gas water heater exhausting right at that unit which will cause rust and potentially make the outdoor develop leaks in the coil

[@PeterH-be1xe]

I saw that and immediately thought, "nah, that's not ideal!"

[@maracservices]

Thanks mate. It already is causing rust on the outdoor casing actually.

[@gav7507]

@@PeterH-be1xe I'm no refrigeration or gas technician but saw that and immediately thought what the ****, the air coming out of those gas heaters is crazy hot surely that is going to ruin the efficiency if not outright damage the outdoor units. Surely that is not compliant work.

[@colindonaghy8617]

@@gav7507 moisture is worse than the heat.

[@justicelut]

How ridiculous, to have a gas hot water system exhausting onto the air conditioner units! Unforgivable. Good job mate. Well done!

[@robalexander7348]

Thanks Mitch, you rectified that one nicely. It looks like thin copper pipe is the problem these days. We need to produce quality copper pipe here in Oz 🤔 nsw

[@maracservices]

I agree, let Australia manufacture stuff again I say!

[@craigladewig3158]

When 410 tubing first came out, one could clearly feel the weight difference between 22 and 410 pipe, now I'm sure they weigh the same. A while ago I found a roll of +-15 year old 1/4" tube and that was defiantly heavier than 410

[@Grazzymeow]

Another one! I've come across 2 in Sydney - Both were in a townhouse complex of about 7 townhouses (Pipes built into the wall). We ended up relocating the condensers and running external pipe up the wall. I'd expect the rest of the townhouses will have the issue soon, it's a serious problem! Good job on this one mate. I've also seen these pair coils condensate externally (in the ceiling space) on the actual insulation, so that tells you a lot about the quality of what is being distributed around Sydney.

[@maracservices]

Thanks mate. It’s very concerning, there’s a comment on this video from someone who has seen this even on the black insulation pair coil. That’s concerning because we don’t really have an option to install quality when it’s not available to us. Crazy.

[@danielgilpin6968]

I’ve had 12 cases of leaking pair coil. It develops the leak at a low point or loop in the paircoil (usually at the outdoor unit where it dips down then up to the flares) the low point is where condensation sits and can’t escape because the insulation holds it there. This moisture helps the copper corrode quite quickly and become pitted - where it starts to leak. All 12 cases I had were Polyaire paircoil, all from a period from 2021-2022 where the leaking took almost exactly 12-18 months to begin

[@maracservices]

@@danielgilpin6968 very interesting

[@46I37]

It would be interesting to send the copper away to be tested to see what it is alloyed with.

[@danielgilpin6968]

@ yes. But I think only Polyaire has done this

[@lewistreloar2312]

We've had about the same number of leaks in the past 2-3 years, we've always found the leak in the exact spot you described.

[@danielgilpin6968]

@@lewistreloar2312 it has to be a reaction with water and some sort of composition of metals that are not copper

[@ontheroad_again]

We were quoted $1800 to replace the Daikin outside main board or a little more for a complete new in/out Daikin unit. I should have done some online checking first because the boards were only $300 to buy online, original Daikin board etc.

[@adamseabrook6455]

I am a roofer and see that white insulation on commercial units on roofs all the time. They bundle it with the power cable and wrap it all in duct tape down to the dektite roof penetration. The duct tape breaks down in the sun and water tracks through into the roof. As a repair for the leak I wrap the bundle with Dek Fast Flash.

[@joshn2673]

When you are about to recharge. Rather than taking your core depressor off (the one you had the vac stat on) leave it on fully backseated and charge the unit. With your vac stat on the side port and backseated you'll notice the microns will not change and you won't expose it to the refrigerant. Schrader cores rely on pressure against them so if you take it off while it's under vac it can leak through because there's 0 pressure against it

[@maracservices]

No worries, thanks for the advice!

[@thesilentonevictor]

Fantastic leak search mate

[@maracservices]

Thanks heaps mate

[@hugglepot]

I had a.black insulated paircoil fail last week. It was a new install 2 years ago and the aircon has done a total of 10hrs. You can see some black dots of corrosion in the copper pipe about 50mm from the flare nut on the os unit.

[@maracservices]

That’s concerning that even the black insulation pair coil is failing! What a nightmare.

[@tphvac87]

We had problems with those white insulated line sets in the states too something about the chemical reaction that happens when they sweat they leak internally. There’s a class action suit against the manufacturer

[@PWC67]

My ducted Daikin just wouldn’t heat or cool but blew lots of lovely air. The guys came back and forth several times over two weeks trying to troubleshoot. They then ordered a major part and got it working perfectly again and a bill of $2500. Pity it wasn’t under warranty but it was a second hand unit about seven years old and $12,000 for a new unit was too expensive. Daikin used to be better but I prefer Mitsubishi as I had issues with all three splits in my previous house. Not good when you pay a fortune now for installs.

[@legogummybear5]

Exactly the same fault as mine. Luckily replaced under warranty (not Daiken). Replaced with industrial grade material so it doesn't happen again

[@LOPANindustries]

Hey Mitch do you recommend owners of a Daikin ducted system use a Surge protector between the Power point in the roof and the daikin indoor unit?

[@samhaveaguess4284]

Do you inspect the pipe after removal to sus out what the issue could be .. Cracking or poorly made copper that is just porous.. It cant be from pipe rubbing together as there is insulation between them .. ?? Im just curious like that ..

[@thisnthat3530]

It looks like the hot exhaust from the water heater blasts straight at that airconditioner. I'm surprised it doesn't melt.

[@bzerk86]

The exhaust from the water heater is also corrosive. Those coils not going to last and if this was an R32 unit, that would be a code violation in South Aus.

[@raymondschembri5042]

Those ac unit are illegally mounted close to instantaneous gas water heater . If you read the manufacturer’s installation it shows you minimum obstructions to the heater.

[@089Adz]

I only use fire rated pair coil for peace of mind. As I've seen this happen to often.

[@maracservices]

Hey mate, have you ever seen fire rated pipe leak personally?

[@089Adz]

@ nah I haven’t that’s why I prefer to use it over the white pair coils. Little bit more expensive though.

[@maracservices]

@ I think I’ll start doing the same thing

[@joshn2673]

I thought fire rated pair coil was only the insulation that was different.. copper is copper at the end of the day?

[@089Adz]

​@@joshn2673 I was told by a supplier a while ago the cause for leaks in white pair coil was from moisture forming inside and reacting with the insulation making a chemical that eats away at the copper, hence why you usually find the leaks near outdoor unit bends and points where moisture cant escape. Also in order to be classed as fire rated in Aus/NZ a product must meet Australian standards which straight away tells you the product you're buying is quality.

[@its_Tricky83]

TTL = Type-Thickness-Length, usually!

[@nunya6081]

Instead of zip ties, put a lick of silicone between the pipe and inso will create a better seal. Definitely start using the 13mm wall black fire rated pair coil as it’s closed cell elastomeric foam unlike the white pair coil which is a polyethylene material.

[@maracservices]

@@nunya6081 I am keen to use the black inso as this white stuff is becoming a joke.

[@VenturiLife]

So is the copper contaminated with some other metal that is corroding away? This should not occur.

[@m9ovich785]

Pair Coil ?? Thats a new one.. In the states we refer it as a LINE SET.

[@rj101silly]

Well it’s a coil and there’s two of them champ

[@m9ovich785]

@@rj101silly HAHAHAHAHAHAAHA. No Coil when it is stretched out point to point So it is a line SET.....

[@maracservices]

Haha over here we call it paircoil but lineset sounds cool. It makes sense.

[@johnnychang4233]

Those coil must be 1 thousand of an inch skinnier and at the moment of unrolling they are susceptible to form a kink that may cause a leak. They sell for cheap but they cuts corner on the quantity of copper used.

[@maracservices]

Wouldn’t surprise me considering where they are manufactured. In fact I’d expect it to be garbage. Unfortunately I can’t seem to find anywhere that sources pipe from decent countries.

[@buckbuck3236]

Remember the old days b4 pair,,when we all used to dress our soft drawn with Lexi & had to tape every Lexi join,,,clearly the copper was of better quality back then.

[@maracservices]

@@buckbuck3236 it definitely was. From what everyone has said, I think the new insulation and adhesive in the insulation is an issue. Maybe we might be going back to the old ways mate haha.

[@glenn1826]

Used to have to put baby power down insulation to fit copper pipe down , all great quality from Oz.

[@buckbuck3236]

@@glenn1826 Ours came pre powdered from the factory, back in around 2003

[@tom24057]

In the UK we still do that 😂

[@royallan3717]

I use to block all but 1 hole on the baby powder bottle for that.pre insulated pipe is rubbish.no thermal rating and always shrinks which pulls apart joint tape.

[@MentalLapse09]

Ive had this happen twice. And im sure it was ttl on the paircoil too. Not totaline? I always thought they were decent.

[@garywright8846]

That hot water unit, that’s a massive problem and makes the install non compliant.

[@S.P1989]

How do you find your Milwaukee vac pump mate? Do you get a decent run time out of it?

[@maracservices]

It’s great mate. Highly recommend it however i will say that you need a massive battery. I bought the 12amp hour forge battery and it’s good enough for domestic installs but if you don’t have a big battery it won’t run for long. But yeah I’m stoked with it.

[@marktadros8782]

@ 1:45 tell me whats wrong with this picture? How about dont install A/C outdoor units right next to the hot air vent of the gas hotwater system? that might just help

[@YT-xf1cy]

That instantaneous HWS is too close to the aircon outdoor units.

[@maracservices]

@@YT-xf1cy yeah mate

[@All-Fun-N-Games]

And Attwood's too close to your mum...

[@lukadleski6610]

hey mate, how often should the oil in a vac pump be changed?

[@maracservices]

@@lukadleski6610 since I bought the new vac pump I legit change it every vac. To answer your question though, at least every few vac’s you should change it.

[@Fermentable]

I connect my micron gauge directly to the vacuum pump and see if it's pulling a fast and deep vacuum. If it pulls down deep, there's no need to change it. You could go by sight: dirty or cloudy, but there's no reason to change it if it's doing what it's supposed to!

[@glenn1826]

Never had a pipe leak from new , I would suggest they brazed a extra length and that the weld has failed somewhere in the length , dodgy soldiering joint .

[@maracservices]

I’ve seen pipe leak like a sieve. No solder joints. It’s wild.

[@tiller_gorilla7220]

No torque spanners used?

[@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi]

We just moved into a rental and the forst thing i checked was all the aircons work. the primary system is an againg mitsushitty g inverter thing thats probably 20 years old. still working but its so old the thermal pipe covering is falling apart. Is there much a normal person can do to check everythings fine? And ballpark how much is it for someone to come check and top one up? Its a rental so i can either wait till winter for the realestste scumbags, or pay myself.

[@r6georgemejia758]

I’ve spent the whole summer swapping out those linesets, they been leaking a lot lately

[@maracservices]

That doesn’t fill me with a lot of confidence. Ah what a nightmare!

[@darkoleskovsek2558]

Wait the actual copper pipe was leaking? I never had that issue.

[@maracservices]

Yeah mate. Copper pipe straight out of china leaks like a sieve after a period of time. Crazy stuff.

[@TheDroppedAnchor]

Another guy here said he heard the condensation drips on the outside of the copper tubing and then collects in a bend. The condensation remains in one spot where it reactions chemically with some weirdo compound in the insulation and the copper wastes away from the outside in.

[@craigladewig3158]

why the extension peace's on the condensor ?

[@maracservices]

The indoor unit is 1/4 - 1/2 inch pipe. Those are extension pieces upsize it to 3/8 - 5/8 to make it compatible with that outdoor unit. That same outdoor unit could be used for a larger indoor unit.

[@gaillaffer7579]

Is it possible that it’s not a correct set? Only one I know of with a pipe size reduction ability is the MX multi split. Or maybe they have previously cut “tails” off indoor and replaced incorrectly? The floor standing outdoor and ducted outdoor look the same in K and L series but I believe the line size were different, they were not interchangeable though. (Would probably work though as same 123 connectors) I’d be interested to know both model designations.

[@maracservices]

@ so the indoor model is FDYQ60DV1 and the outdoor is RZQS60AV1

[@craigladewig3158]

@@maracservices Daikin Spec sheet lists a RXS60JVMA as condenser and 1/4 1/2 pipe set. 1.5 KG standard charge (10m)

[@maracservices]

@@craigladewig3158 The JVMA is for a high wall split. The JVMA is in my opinion their best model ever in terms of reliability. I put one in my parent’s house when I was an apprentice. Still running to this day. I think the ducted in the video comes in this set, Indoor Model: FDYQ60DV1 Outdoor Model: RZQS60AV1 Wall Controller: BRC1E63 iceblast.com.au/product/daikin-6-0kw-reverse-cycle-premium-inverter-single-phase-ducted-system-fdyq60dv1/

[@SupremeRuleroftheWorld]

tape up both ends of the line insualtion so no condensate can happen inside the lineset.

[@maracservices]

Good idea. Thanks for the advice!

[@johngaunt2734]

Not to sound like a jerk man but why didn’t ya just take the pipe straight to the flare connection on the unit , just 2 more possible places were it can leak ?

[@maracservices]

@@johngaunt2734 The outdoor unit is a different pipe size to the indoor unit. That’s why it has those reducers. So to answer your question, I couldn’t go straight to the flare connection on the unit.

[@markandsuriyonphanasonkath8768]

Expat Australian, we have several condos / flats / apartments, when we buy, if there is a Daikin, it is IMMEDIATELY replaced with a real air conditioner, these have always let us down, rubbish! Samsung is way worse!

[@Radoslav-t5r]

Of course when you allowed cheap coper to flood the market,what about crane enfield and kembla aus made ,never had any problem

[@andrewguy1249]

I just had the same problem after loosing gas 3 times it was the pipes leaking

[@maracservices]

What a nightmare

[@georgelinington1066]

Great job but seriously get some torque wrenches!

[@maracservices]

@@georgelinington1066 thanks mate. I have many torque wrenches for my car and bikes but not for flare nuts. I’m not exactly sure why, maybe I should. In 18 years I’ve had one of my flares leak and it was a quarter flare nut I forgot to tighten when I was a fourth year apprentice. I found it when my vac pump couldn’t pull a vacuum.

[@georgelinington1066]

@maracservices your works great. They are relatively cheap and honestly takes away guesswork and just makes that one step easier. Totally get the 'by feel' method, but if there are tools to make it easier I'd be grabbing one. Great video.

[@paulpipek9108]

The quality, porosity of copper pipes is shocking on units which were not made in Japan (but a unit may still show "Made in Japan"!). Ask someone who is familiar with this brand, to distinguish where it was made. Buy only Japanese. Also, many importers buy genuine Japanese units, but those which were constructed and programmed for heating rather than for cooling. Yes, it still works as an AC unit, but... .

[@Browner19]

That garbage lineset insulation causing leaks has cost alot of people time and money

[@neoando]

Apparently some of the imported pair coil has been manufactured with cheaper fillers in the copper that reacts with either a chemical in the Insulation, the refrigerant, the heating/cooling cycles or a combination of the above. Over time this causes pitting in the copper that creates small holes in the lines. So they are jumping or dancing on the copper with cheap fillers during the melting process…. Bit like a drug dealer i guess….

[@maracservices]

I’ve heard heaps of different theories aye. I don’t know what the go is but my thoughts have always been that the copper is being made poorly with impurities of some sort. As opposed to it reacting to insulation.

[@MelodyMan69]

Cheap 'chinese' pair coil does not have the wall thickness required by Australian Standards. Also, the copper is not good quality. Tradies that keep buying it need to understand that breakdowns are part of the cheap price.

[@maracservices]

@@MelodyMan69 the issue is there is no such thing as Australian made pair coil unfortunately so tradies don’t have a choice

[@MelodyMan69]

@maracservices Kembla ? I've been in HVAC since 1972. All Aircon Suppliers have Installation Requirements written out in their Manuals. Commercial Projects will have a Consultants Specification that specifically asks for Australian Standards to be complied with. All Tradies bang on about 'quality' Installations and why they are better than the next bloke.

[@maracservices]

@ Kembla pipe is not made in Australia. It’s made in Korea. That’s a fact as I spoke with them directly. It was made in Australia in 1972 but sure as shit isn’t now. Crane and Kembla pipe do not manufacture in Australia anymore. I want to buy Australian products, it’s something I’m passionate about but they don’t exist anymore. I have no faith in AS/NZ standards because all these pipes that leak come from china or other foreign places that don’t care about our standards and we as a nation don’t check that stuff.

[@MelodyMan69]

@maracservices Bollocks. 87% of MM Kembla tubing sold is made at Port Kembla

[@maracservices]

@@MelodyMan69 here’s a bit of light reading for you mate. The copper tube for our PairCoil Max is made in Korea by our partners and we manufacture the coils using K-flex insulation.

[@stephenlawlor3973]

Shocking that you cant rely on pipe

[@maracservices]

Yeah it’s a joke

[@Radoslav-t5r]

Can’t believe someone installed air con unit close to HWS🤡

[@yodanize]

So who foots the bill in all these cases? It shouldn't be the customer under Australian consumer law. If the supply chain kept paying for all low quality pipes then things would change.

[@maracservices]

@@yodanize if I install the pipe on one of my installs and it leaks (which has happened once before), I warrant it. Even though it’s not my fault, I just do the right thing but if it’s not my install and just a random service call then unfortunately it’s the customer that has to pay (unless they chase up installer).

[@yodanize]

@@maracservices shouldn't it be the wholesaler or manufacturer of the poor quality parts covering both the parts and your labour to repair? I feel if these costs were passed on then the suppliers then this will motivate them to change.

[@maracservices]

@ yeah but it’s easier said then done unfortunately

[@evangiles4403]

​ No, you would have to prove that the pipe was not fit for purpose when it was installed and not that this is the result of wear and tear which is what they would say if you sued In most cases the warranty would only apply to the unit not the external fittings

[@chocman77]

Had this twice in a week!!! Shit

[@maracservices]

That’s rough!

[@kennethbrennan2916]

The worst aircon machine in the world ,Never buy one.