Why Dry Pour -

Dry Pour equals Freedom to do it at your own pace.
Check out full video here
• 21'X14' Dry Pour Slab ...
also this sidewalk is pretty great
• Dry Pour - 70 Bag Side...

[@bernadettev6060]

You did this yourself? Looks great!

[@FlyingPig357]

Looks great too! 👍🏼

[@marioreyes9509]

No stress, that's what I like to hear.

[@that6.7guy30]

I did my 10'x60'x6" with #4 rebar as a dry poor. did it in 10x10 sections. I have compacted sand as the base. it's the pad for my lean to off my 40x60 shop. I park my f350 KR dually and my 6k lb tractor on it. also have a international 4400 dump truck sit on it while I had the engine apart. has held up great over the last year. even with michigans freeze/thaw weather and some flooding.

[@isabellavision]

A year ago? Where did you learn the technique? I know it isn’t exactly new this year, but it was almost unheard of before all the hubbub this spring/summer.

[@blahblah8037]

@@isabellavisionI know it’s really getting popular this year but it’s really not new.

[@ftnirish74]

I've been looking for posts on dry pours in colder climates. Thanks for the validation that it'll work.

[@bustersmith5569]

@@isabellavision How are the edges ?

[@tomacton529]

I just did a patio 24x6 and couldn’t be happier. I did 3/8 tap cons in it for post and the post are very firmly in place. Like you said freedom to do it at your own pace and no need to hope the people who said they will help you not bail the day off needing the help. 🤙🏼

[@cousin_JACK]

I think you’re an inspiration to many. Looks great.

[@HankBaugh]

Thank you

[@odellmccain1993]

I know it is not to durable enough for structural needs/foundations but for just walking on I think it is a great idea. I plan to do a walkway from my patio to my free stand deck. Pleant of people have done it and they have had great results for non structural projects . Contractors want nearly $1300 and I can do it for about 300. Every project doesn't require a pro. The concrete pavers (larger ones) are always damaged or crumble easily. I wanted to to a paver patio but I just don't seeing lasting at all, even just walking on it. Besides my patio, which is poured the standard way by the Home builder already has this long Crack that is nearly 8 feet long and the house is only 3 years old! So I will be doing this soon. At least this method has shown not to crack as soon.

[@Stahodad]

Most poured concrete will have some cracking at 8 feet due to shrinkage. That's why the control joints are cut on sidewalks, etc.

[@odellmccain1993]

@@Stahodad That may explain why I have the cracks. Thank you. Where is the recommended length for the expansion joints for a 4 inch thick walkway?

[@MrDlt123]

​@@odellmccain1993Concrete control joints should be ¼ of the total thickness of the slab and placed no less than 2-3 times (in feet) the thickness (in inches) of the slab (8-12 feet apart for a 4” thick pour). Expansion joints and different, and should be placed to adjoin other slabs to allow for expansion and contraction. The cracks in between the two adjoining concrete slabs are typically filled with either expansion joint filler or a filler rope / caulk. Hope that helps.

[@odellmccain1993]

Thanks for the info! Appreciated

[@CitarNosis317]

Very nice build, congrats man.

[@illiniwood]

(This engineer claims this is even better than dry pour. See what you think) @mikehewitt1253 1 month ago (edited) Dear all, let me try to help everyone understand concrete. The cement part of any mortar or concrete reacts with water in a hydraulic chemical reaction (exothermic reaction i.e. generates heat). When thoroughly cured, meaning allowing enough time for this reaction to take place and preferably throughout all the cement particles where they become irreversibly hardened and water proof. However, cement on it's own will shrink significantly and crack all over so it needs a binder - sand - this 'stretches' the cement through the mix so when it hardens via Curing it's bonded to lot's of already hard sand particles and more cement particles alike creating a hard material that doesn't crack - mortar. However 😁 mortar is not strong in itself. For strength we add Aggregate, ideally for strength you want some flat, some irregular stones (not pebble like) of 3 sizes - pea size, golf ball size and halfway between those - giving us Concrete when Cured throughout. Now, I've watched many dry pour vids with interest and listened to the nay sayers saying it has to be WET to cure and therefore dry pour is nonsense......... Time for education folks where (after that which I have outlined above) you will be surprised that I'm on the side of dry pour ....... SORT OF...... When dry pouring, it is tamped thoroughly down before spraying - this is GOOD - but cement particles and sand particles and aggregate elements throughout will not all receive moisture, will not Cure and will remain as dust in parts - not good. BUT Wet is not great either! It's CONVENIENT. The best, strongest concrete is Mechanical Concrete which is made with JUST ENOUGH water to provide moisture throughout for correct curing. The test is - grab a small fist full, squeeze hard together in palm of hand and if doesn't hold shape and crumbles when released from pressure, needs more moisture. The shape should Break cleanly in two pieces without crumbling - if stretches in the break test, it's too wet. So my recommendation to all is........ Dry pour mix thoroughly together with rake, add moisture by spraying so as not to over-wet BUT rake that moisture throughout and THEN Tamp down hard compacting it all properly and level off. All this 24 hrs later stuff is inadequate - Minimum curing time is a month - covered to keep that minimum moisture in the mixed pad, base, driveway, - shouldn't be touched, don't go near it - best of both worlds here as easy as Dry Pour and stronger than the normal convenient Wet stuff which because of too much moisture cannot be as compacted and consolidated to provide the same strength. Go Mechanical guys, it's the best. Anyone want to hear my views on Earthcrete, which I find fascinating - by the way - I'm a Civil Engineer - spent an entire year studying Concrete - an entire bloody year on nothing but concrete. PS DON'T use quickset anything, you won't have enough time for all rake work, use standard Portland.

[@edgarmartinez6526]

Amazing job 👍👍👍

[@TheeHamiltons]

Dry pour = freedom... nice! Would love some technical info about how this holds up, how much water and frequency for misting... also if you can show the side of the slab to prove that it set well

[@HankBaugh]

Look at my latest sidewalk published a couple days ago for side shots

[@abeeftec]

Concrete Always sets completely if its not stored in plastic. IF you added NO water.... in a week it will be hard.

[@fishbuscharters]

Looks great!

[@christhut8140]

You have to pickup your mesh when you pour slabs. Leaving it on the ground gives the concrete 0 extra structural integrity. You want it in the middle of the slab or atleast 2" from the top of bottom face. I poured floors and foundations for 8 years

[@bustersmith5569]

are you a navy seal or a army sniper also ??

[@HankBaugh]

If I told you... Seriously I have the Greatest respect for our Country and those who serve.

[@Stahodad]

I can't wait for the "Dry Mortar Mix Concrete Block Wall" videos..😅

[@HankBaugh]

Be sure you are subscribed. You never know what is next.

[@mihnic0504]

I might try this.

[@pokellaa]

Excellent

[@roxanne7124]

We need an update on how it’s looking so far, I don’t think you have a video on the finished product right?

[@HankBaugh]

Yes, Here is the complete project. Thanks for watching. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pHfLhIunhN55a80feature=shared

[@joel.3112]

I have the same ? What's dry pour? Also looks nicely done ✔️ 👌

[@IrishDublinDave]

Ive see a few dry pour slabs now and even did a small one myself but I've never seen one with a plastic damp proof layer below, you think it would it work or prevent the bottom drawing moisture from below so weakening the slab? Thinking of make a shed base but want to keep it super dry

[@HankBaugh]

It would definitely slow down the process if you can't wick up water from the ground. Might br better to just seal the top after a few weeks. ?

[@justanotherchannelfornow2846]

Can anyone tell me if this would work to make stepping stones like 12 inches by 12 inches, etc? Dry pour I mean, like into a frame. I don't see why it wouldn't work but I am asking people who know??? I have a area below my deck where there's just no way to get to with a wheelbarrow, etc, but I'd like to be able to access it. It's on a hillside, so I think just stepping stones would be the best option for it and buying them pre-made isn't an option for me, much too expensive

[@HankBaugh]

For something that small you could try both ways. You could wet mix a couple, the dry pour a couple and see what you like better before you do the rest.

[@TD.Vietnam]

I did a 14x14 by myself and saved me over 1 thousand bucks.

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Awesome thats the size of my old garage. How many bags ?

[@HankBaugh]

I think it was 55 - 60 bags per section. I lost count.

[@LEXUS22206]

This size slab how many bags did it take?

[@HankBaugh]

About 60 bags per section. I have a lot more detail in some of the comments. Thanks for watching!

[@allenwalkersr.2093]

What is dry pour... Is that dumping the concrete bags in the hole and then water it?

[@HankBaugh]

I guess in its simplest form. It is a process where you pour the dry mix in your forms, screed it until all of the aggregate is below the surface, edge it, roll out any imperfections with a dry paint roller, then lightly mist it with water once an hour (2-3 times) trying to not disturb the finish, then water it freely 6- 8 more times. I will be posting the entire process in a few days.

[@juandelgado3171]

Just did it yesterday! Myself

[@HankBaugh]

That is Great! Be sure you keep it wet for the next 7 days for best strength. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpi8h3hueqqSmc0feature=shared

[@reginastevenson-swint8676]

How many bags did you use and,what size bags also,the brand?

[@HankBaugh]

80lb bags. Quickcrete. About 60 plus per section.

[@reginastevenson-swint8676]

@@HankBaugh I'm gonna do something similar, thanks

[@danno1ize]

This thing will Crack to pieces in a year,hope you saved some money.

[@HankBaugh]

So you have tried this before?

[@pokellaa]

No it doesn't... Its stronger this way, cause it sucks the moisture as it cures by itself.. Opposed to over watering a barrel mix of sloppy mud like an idiot hoping it drys while putting lines where you think it might crack...😮

[@martincarr4204]

it has rebars and a rock base, why will it crack in pieces,

[@ProfessorDIY]

WRONG many dry pour pads exist for years now with zero cracks in fact with better results than wet pour

[@christhut8140]

​@@martincarr4204 thats not rebar its welded wire mesh. And it belongs IN the slab atleast 2" from either face, not on the ground. On the ground is useless and a waste of money.

[@TT3TT3]

Nice

[@HankBaugh]

Thank you

[@MontyRoyal963]

👍😎👍

[@deesnutz4u2]

What is your KZbin channel?

[@HankBaugh]

youtube.com/@Handy-Hank

[@davidsettle8456]

How hard would a 16x24 be to do

[@HankBaugh]

Your screeding board has to reach across your forms. You could go 4 sections wide.. 6' each?

[@davidsettle8456]

Question, how much gravel would need to be on the ground , and want a 4 inch slab pour. How did you figure out how many bags of concrete for slabs

[@HankBaugh]

@davidsettle8456 quikrete has an online calculator www.quikrete.com/calculator/main.asp

[@kelsycunningham8452]

Fun fact for all the dry pour deniers... If bags of 4,000psi concrete only achieve 3/4 of their compressive (wet rated) strength after 28 days, you'd still have 3,000 psi concrete which is superior to most redi-mix truckloads delivered to the job.

[@terrancedaniels9920]

That's what a buggy is for homeboy

[@activemanishere]

Don't worry, you will pay for this soon. You can't dry pour a slab. There will be dry pockets which will lead to massive failure. Especially taking weeks which means you added either bags of concrete or water to the slab over time. Either way, at best, you got cold joints. At worst, large voids of powder encased in concrete.

[@JaySaenz29]

Don't worry, this has been debunked. Have a great day.

[@ethelryan257]

You're wrong.

[@activemanishere]

@@ethelryan257 prove it.

[@ProfessorDIY]

You can and many people have, including me, with great results

[@activemanishere]

@@ProfessorDIY ya I wouldn't count on that! Not only that, but I can do a regular pour by myself, in an afternoon without needing to do all the extra stuff you did so why would anyone do a dry pour? I get the appeal for fence posts but not a slab.

[@Stonedstoney135]

Never in my life have I seen this process actually work. Perhaps with your situation you should have considered a compacted gravel base, screeding material like sand, and laid pavers. Even if you used the cheap ass ones from the big box lumberyards you would have had better results and also would have allowed you to do in stages. Just because you see something on "the web", doesn't mean it's a good idea

[@HankBaugh]

Time will tell my friend. Thanks for your input.