21'X14' Dry Pour Slab Complete Video

This is the complete video of my three-section 21' X 14' Dry-pour concrete slab.
See my 1st sidewalk video here:
• Dry Pour - 70 Bag Side...
• Dry Pour Sidewalk numb...
See strength testing here:
• Test Results Round 2. ...

[@rattlbass]

Nice work. How did you attach the sander to the boards?

[@jimrotharmel]

I am watching a bunch of dry pour videos, everyone teaches me something, you have sold me on quick create. I am building conference to try my own much smaller pad than what you have done but really appreciate you making this video

[@jakefriesenjake]

Make sure that you buy the quickcrete with no rocks in it for the top layer. It's called "sand topping Mix" Thank me later

[@careymarks7244]

Great job Hank!!! This is the first time i have seen a sander used for skreeting, that is a great idea!!!

[@MrBdogg317]

I’m in Indy too and I’m currently working on an 12x14 pad that will be used for my outdoor kitchen. I’m doing it in sections as well. I used a sand mix on top and it made a huge difference. Nice job

[@floridagrown6250]

How did the sand mix on top turned out?

[@MrBdogg317]

@@floridagrown6250 turned out great. Smooth finish and so far has held up but this winter will tell. It’s 5” thick I had to match the existing concrete. I got my kitchen done and had no issues drilling in to the concrete. Only thing I had to do is clean off the top layer that didn’t get hard in some parts but you can’t even tell where it is. I just sprayed the sand off that didn’t settle.

[@agenxphyte]

Sand mix on top? Any videos of the process?

[@41dodgee300]

The Sander is brilliant, just enough vibration to set the rock!!

[@jerrys.1910]

Wearing that black shirt at 14:00 must have been roasting... Anyway, your hard labor, trial-and-error and overall effort is appreciated and helps so many in their endeavors. Your helpful hints and merely taking the time to record every detail is a tremendous accomplishment. Well done and THANK YOU! Liked and subscribed.

[@timbob987]

Fantastic! Awesome details from the beveled edge board to the prototype screeds to handling this completely by yourself on a large slab. I am thankful to you for showing that Quikrete is the way to go, because my driveway repair pours with Sakrete look just like Mastercraft and saw your video, also I noticed someone commented that Sakrete is a fail too. So it will be Quikrete from now on. I'm just waiting for October so I can start my 30x30 barn pour in the sun, it's been upper 90s last 2 months here in deep south. BTW, I always go heavy on the water for the concrete and myself and cover with plastic, the concrete not me, for a few days here in the hot zone.

[@mattsb5196]

Looks awesome. Well done.

[@james76186]

Thank you brother that was a fantastic video. Great information that I will use in my slab.

[@cbsdesignscbs386]

I love the sander idea for a vibrator thing. I know with wet pour a vibrator rod is used a lot to help settle the concrete reducing the bubbles/air pockets. Your way seems like a great way to do the same kind of thing with the dry concrete. Thanks for sharing.

[@PugetSoundFlyer]

Getting ready to pour a 10x14 slab in a couple of months. Sander vibration mod is great...will def use that!

[@rossconverse9067]

Thanks for sharing all your techniques, subscribed

[@HankBaugh]

Thanks for subscribing, that really helps us KZbinrs continue to provide content.

[@paulasmith7851]

Looks great! Like everyone else, I'm wondering how you attached the sander to your screed boards. Subscribed, post some more as time goes by. I'm hoping to do a similar pad next to my garage for some extra parking.

[@VenturaIT]

Looks good, you probably want to keep wet curing it where the deep footings are so that you are sure it has enough water to hydrate the complete volume of extra mix in the footing holes... once it sets (after the misting) you can't give it too much water and it's stronger the more water you give it, some pro's "wet cure" for 28 days... You can resurface it to make it even "nicer"/smoother with QR concrete resurfacer and you can even apply a color at that time I think... screeding looks like a two person job... I think yours is the first "dry pour" online with a functional foundation (with the deeper parts), not just a slab. I'd love to figure out how to do foundations and walls and roofs with dry pour.

[@PsyCoCinematics]

This is something I'm surprised isn't mentioned more in the dry pour stuff: keep it wet! Once the 'crust' is locked in with the misting, ya should be golden. Figure watering it down with a decent shower once or twice a day during the curing process would strengthen the end result, or at least cover it with a plastic tarp to help keep it damp and prevent the sun sapping the water out of it.

[@VenturaIT]

@@PsyCoCinematics Google how to wet cure concrete

[@jakefriesenjake]

You are right. Keep it soaking wet, after the initial mists. I think that the mists should be pretty steady tho, not enough to disrupt it or have puddleing. Just keep it moist. Then after an hour or two, speed it up with showers. Don't let it puddle, just keep it wet. After 4 or 6 hours, keep a sprinkler on it. After 24 hours, soak it and cover with plastic. Wet for 28 is best. Also, for the top layer, use concrete with no stones in it. Easy screeding

[@jadensmith9784]

Very professional looking!

[@andrewschafer8986]

Huh?

[@petelinster7093]

Im going to build a pergola and I think where my post will be I'll do a wet mix. Then do smaller sections with the dry mix. I think where the 2x4s come up in the middle I'm going to use some decorative tiny gravel tamp it down and put mulch glue on it to secure it. You gave me faith in your completion of your slab. I will stick with quick crete. I plan on making my pergola 10 x 20ft 6 posts with a hip roof. I'm stoked seeing your project. Thanks for sharing.

[@HankBaugh]

You will be very happy. Just be sure to pack the mix tightly, then after you are able to water freely, after 1st 2 - 3 mistings, keep it moist for 3 to 7 days for maximum strength.

[@chuckh989]

How many total bags did u end up using?? I'm doing a 12×22 which narrows down to 10×30 so trying figure it out ...was going do a wet pour but this dry pour looks like it may be easier for me ..

[@HankBaugh]

I used about 180 bags for this. Be sure to watch my wet cure video before you do your slab. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gomknpSXpJqgb8kfeature=shared

[@MrDisrupption]

Awesome video!

[@HankBaugh]

Thanks!

[@captmoa]

Great work How do you attach the sander? Thanks

[@pauldejesus9644]

great video

[@HankBaugh]

Thanks!

[@harleyb.birdwhisperer]

Good info. Nice production, good audio.

[@HankBaugh]

Thank you

[@mikekelley5033]

I enjoyed watching the work being done. Really miss being able to work. work and I were no stranger until rheumatoid arthritis separated us. dream of improvements constantly. The old saying .once a man twice a child . it’s great to tell someone hey I did that by myself.

[@gwenienelson2535]

Good job!!

[@HankBaugh]

Thank you

[@Moffy1961]

Great video and excellent idea to use a palm sander to help with screeding.

[@victorm7274]

That palm sander is a good idea. 👍 how did it work for you ? that gave me an idea to use a flat 2x8 with the side beveled and the sander on top and rope to pull as the finishing pass.

[@karenromero1703]

I wonder if you could use concrete mix on the bottom half and mortar mix that doesn’t have the rock on the top half to prevent rocks on the surface.

[@thecrazybiggin]

How did you get the sander to stick to the board

[@jeromecalderone4526]

Great video Hank giving my the confidence to do my own. Could you make a quick video of how you made the power screed tool thanks so much.

[@HankBaugh]

I will work on that

[@jeromecalderone4526]

@@HankBaugh Gained a sub

[@HankBaugh]

Here is the link! kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJiyeIKtedx_Y5I

[@stevecarney6750]

Looks like the skreet board worked well. My wife and I did a slab about the same size, we did 12 5x5 slabs used 12 bags per slab we did 3 a week 2 on Monday and center on Thursday. Basically same method of forming as you.were doing a apron in front of our shop so for the 2 end just used 3 boards for forms middle was just 1board. Also used a little sand topping mix we are happy with it.

[@sterlgirlceline]

Did you have any issues with bubbling? What brand of cement did you use? I would really appreciate the info 😊☀️

[@stevecarney6750]

@@sterlgirlceline I used quick Crete, we had no issues the last one's we did look really good. There's a video out that looks like he did really well I think it's grappler dyi, we followed Cajun country recommended process worked for us. I'm not really qualified to be giving drypour instructions. It worked for us, and I believe it will work for a lot of people, but there are quite a few people who seem to hate the drypour.

[@sterlgirlceline]

@@stevecarney6750 Thank you for taking the time to respond! I am gathering info to prepare to do 4” slab for an 8x20’ shed. I came across a nice couple who posted a dry pour on KZbin who had issues with bubbling or “blistering.” I’ve been trying to gather info in the hopes I can avoid that issue. Yes, I see all of the nasty comments about dry pour also and I really commend all of the brave souls who post and endure all of that. ⭐️

[@stevecarney6750]

@@sterlgirlceline I would watch Diy The Grappler I basically did the same process. I don't think there's much difference between sackcrete and quick Crete. I actually used both but topped with quick Crete because that is what I started with and there was slightly different color between them. Any way the video he just out is good. Also I would do the project in sections you can skreet easy. I also think what he says about curing is important good luck.

[@sterlgirlceline]

@@stevecarney6750 Thank you! Yes, I am going to reinforce with Pinkbar (with chairs) by Owen Corning. I am also going to do a 4” gravel base compacted with a rented ground compactor. Just really hoping to avoid bubbling/blistering 🤞🏻🤞🏻🤞🏻

[@peterstevens6555]

Happy New Year from Auckland, New Zealand ...job well done !!!

[@HankBaugh]

Happy New Year. It is great to hear from New Zealand!

[@peterstevens6555]

@@HankBaugh Serviced with the US Army back in the late 80’s …have very fond memories of the U.S.A. !!! Born and bred in NZ …🙂🙂🙂

[@londonmechana]

What’s with the giant holes in the forms?

[@travispolson4615]

For the dry pour, I did we used Sakrete brand mix and we had the exact same issue with the rock on top. I would love to use the Quikrete brand but no one has it in stock anywhere around where we live.

[@JD_Customs]

I literally have a truckbed full of Sakrete in my backyard and I am contemplating returning it and going to buy Quikrete 😂. I wish I saw this video earlier !!!

[@MADDOG100ful]

Yes, I battled with the rock also coming to the top, so I just did an aggregate finish on it

[@user-iv4tk7zs3u]

Great Job !! Question: How did you attach the sander to the wood?

[@HankBaugh]

I drilled holes in the sander plate and used 3" deck screws into the wood.

[@profithunter777]

How many bags did this take and how many LB's in each bag? Looking to do a dry pour for a similar size and every calculator I use is saying I need 332+ bags for a 14x32 slab, that's like $1100, at that price I would just call someone to come pour it for me.

[@JD_Customs]

I wish I saw this video before I bought a crap load of Sakrete🤦‍♂️. Something told me to get Quikrete from HD, but I was already at Lowe’s … I think I should return this stuff and get the Quikrete just to avoid the headache

[@xenancy8725]

Thanks for posting the details. This is going to help me a lot in my first dry pour. I was wondering... why roll over the edging? Or why not use the edger again as a final finishing touch? Is it just an aesthetic choice? Also how do you use any kind of spacer to suspend the mesh in the middle or is it ok to just rest on the gravel base? By the way, I've seen someone top off their dry concrete with a little bit of mortar mix before screeding and they get a really nice, smooth finish because of the extra powder on top of the aggregate.

[@HankBaugh]

Great questions! I really encourage you to do a little experiment to get first hand knowledge before you do your actual project. Just make a little 1' by 2' box to see how it goes for you. I did pull the wire mesh up into the middle as I went. On the edger, it is really difficult to get a good looking edge stripe, that is why most people just paint roller over it. You could add straight mortar to the top, but that is not needed if your screeding is working for you. I think that was all - good luck with your project! Tell your friends to subscribe!

[@xenancy8725]

@@HankBaugh Thanks for replying with good advice!

[@dammitbobby283]

Filter the rocks out of a few bags of concrete with a window screen and set them aside to use as a top coat of powder. Spread the rocks you've filtered out into the mix of concrete in the middle/bottom of the slab. Watch some of the concrete countertop videos on youtube where they have very smooth surfaces, and you'll get some ideas.

[@jakefriesenjake]

Just buy bags with no rocks for the top layer

[@dammitbobby283]

@@jakefriesenjake It cost a lot more but it would be less work.

[@jakefriesenjake]

@@dammitbobby283 in Canada, it cost almost double.

[@HankBaugh]

I found that the Quickcrete brand was the trick. The rocks go below the surface with the side to side motion of the skreeding tool.

[@mcied1]

no expansion joints?

[@eclaro]

Thanks for the video, very informative. Let me ask you about the posts spots. So you digged for the posts, but after that I see you simply poured the concrete dry everywhere. Does it mean you simply filled the post holes with dry concrete and just made the slab thicker in that spots? How do you compare this with wet pouring for the posts? My fear with mixing dry and wet would be how the concrete layers would bond with each other (they wouldn't I guess)

[@HankBaugh]

Sorry for the late response. I did just fill the post holes with dry. Just wanted extra thickness there to support the roof.

[@GruntDriver]

the answer to the aggregate rising would be layer 6000psi Mortar on top as itll run much more smooth when you dry pour as a top layer but nicely done buddy just a tip

[@eclaro]

Another question if you allow me: my slab is going to be 28x16, attached with rebars to the house foundation and on one side to an existing slab. I will use #3 rebars for reinforcement and plan to build a pergola covered with polycarbonate sheets. I have already put the gravel. My issue is I have a slope, so near the house the thickness will be about 3" only (I have to match the height of the existing slab) and on the opposite edge it will be maybe 5 or 6". Do you think I will have high risk of cracks on the thinnest part? Thanks again

[@HankBaugh]

That is a very specific question. There are a ton of factors that can cause the concrete to Crack, or not Crack. Someone once told me that all concrete cracks. That is obviously not true, but what they were trying to say was the rebar keeps the concrete from separating, not from cracking. This is why people saw cut slabs every 8-10 feet. So when it does crack, it will be in the saw cuts not someplace else. Fiber in the concrete strengthens it and reduces likelihood of cracking as well. Obviously you want to know about Dry Pour. What I do know is in perfect conditions, with adequate moist curing, your drypour will be 50% the strength of wet mix under the same conditions. For my projects, that has been fine. I have always made my slabs and walks at least 3-1/2" or more thick. Pack the mix in tightly. Moist cure for at least 3 days. I know I did not answer your question, but I wanted to give you as much information as I could so you can make your own judgements.

[@thomasdane1781]

great idea with the vibrator

[@HankBaugh]

Thanks, it made a world or difference.

[@thomasdane1781]

@@HankBaugh yea I can see that.. I'm used to work with wet congrete.. and we saw this video and had to try it for our self, we build a garden path together with some norweigen red Cliff rocks, and its turned out amazing.. so now it looks like hard sand around Mountain rock..

[@paulasmith7851]

Sorry, saw you responded earlier about the sander!

[@mr.c6674]

You left the mesh sitting on the base, or did you sonehow center it at some point?

[@HankBaugh]

You just pull it up to the center as you go

[@KevYork]

Just wondering, could you do a thin layer of cement without gravel, or even mortar, on the top to cover up the aggregate since you are unable to float the concrete when you wet it?

[@HankBaugh]

I suggest you make some small firms and experiment around. See this video. This was my first attempt at learning what you can and cannot do with dry pour. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpzHm4abm9WHo6Mfeature=shared

[@KevYork]

i am going to be putting up a mobile home on a burn lot in Paradise, ca. I like the idea of dry slab for some aoplications, but not all. A garage slab needs a professional wet pour, but a patio or walkway might get by with dry pour. On a patio I want to experiment with putting a thin layer of mortar mixed with color on top of semi firm dry pour then mist it. When starting to set up then I will do heavier watering. Looks like you are doing a good job on your project.

[@adrianromerocodes3211]

how did you attach the sander to the board? you screwed it in place? also you think the slab can be used as a driveway?

[@HankBaugh]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJiyeIKtedx_Y5Ifeature=shared

[@smwon1]

How many bags did it take for each section? Enjoyed watching!

[@HankBaugh]

I think 55-60 80lb bags each section. I lost count though.

[@smwon1]

@@HankBaugh thank you!

[@mstream39]

I may have missed it but how many total bags did you use for the entire slab and how many hours do you have in this project?

[@HankBaugh]

I kind of lost count, but 50 - 60 of the 80lb bags per section.

[@treefiddy2470]

Looks good man. Thats exactly what i was wondering about. Looks like a drive way is possible. Let us know how it holds up. Subscribed

[@HankBaugh]

I will let you know how this holds up. I think it will be great for what I am using it for. I would let someone else try the first Driveway. This is still kind of experimental in my opinion.

[@sterlgirlceline]

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️Thank you for this; extremely helpful! Has anyone had issues with BUBBLING? I saw a couple of people who had bubbles come to the surface but one of them used another brand instead of Quickcrete. Could that have made a difference? Are bubbles more likely with a rock base? Maybe not if compacted first? Does wetting or not wetting the ground and/or rock base underneath make a difference with bubbling?

[@HankBaugh]

You have to just lightly mist the first two times. This forms a crust that keeps the surface finish in tact.

[@sterlgirlceline]

@@HankBaugh Thank you for taking the time to respond! 😊⭐️. I’ll go back and look at that video with the bubbling.

[@sterlgirlceline]

@@HankBaugh This is the KZbin video of the nice couple who had the bubbling aka “blistering” issue in their dry pour. They misted twice first, then in their first (and subsequent) shower/s they had bubbles: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4a8nIR4aZWdnJY

[@HankBaugh]

@@sterlgirlceline I looked at that video.. maybe it was the brand? Maybe because they screeded with a level, which did not have a beveled leading edge like a 2x4 does, so they were not packing the mix together?

[@sterlgirlceline]

@@HankBaugh I was thinking the brand also but I asked two, other people who used that same brand and they said the blistering didn’t happen to them interestingly. I was thinking maybe the size of the base gravel was big and they also didn’t use a mallet on the sides of the forms to get any air bubbles out. Your point is spot on and the way the dry pour was positioned would make it impossible to screed which vibrates the powder and surely helps with air pockets. I just prefer to investigate as many potential pitfalls beforehand so hopefully mine goes well. Thanks so much for all of your tips. I appreciate it more than I can articulate! 😊⭐️

[@billsmith9249]

I am only 2 min in but what part of the country are you in? like, NW Ohio, SW MN, etc.. thanks!

[@HankBaugh]

Indiana

[@ward26102]

I never see anyone float after misting. Could you use a bull float lightly to smooth the surface?

[@HankBaugh]

You can't improve the finish after misting. See this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpzHm4abm9WHo6Mfeature=shared

[@mcied1]

Can you use the float to smooth it out? Or does that have to be done on a wet pour?

[@HankBaugh]

All finishing work must be done before you get it wet. Anything you drag across, like a float will expose aggregate.

[@mcied1]

@@HankBaugh aw ok makes sense. Thanks! Going to expand my back patio this way.

[@paulasmith7851]

Obviously you can't do it now, but what would you think of using expansion joints between the sections of your pours? I'm using your idea of doing the pad in sections, but making them smaller so it's more manageable.

[@HankBaugh]

I considered putting the foam strips in there, but decided against it. We will see how it works out.

[@melainelee]

did u use expansion joints inbetween ?

[@HankBaugh]

You should put in expansion joints every 8' to 12' on a 4" slab. My sections are 7' wide by 14' long. Probably should have, but I didn't want them. We will see.

[@rostamr4096]

How are you keeping the sander on top?

[@HankBaugh]

3 inch deck screws through the sanding plate and into the wood. Thanks for watching.

[@jodysephus6922]

Do you think it would be safe making a driveway with this method? Thanks, good video and tips

[@HankBaugh]

I am currently doing some strength testing with a reputable concrete testing company. Results won't be in for about 6 weeks.

[@jodysephus6922]

@@HankBaugh Nice cant wait to hear the results :-)

[@timbob987]

I failed. I tried a 8x10 repair area halfway down my driveway. Here is why I think it failed. A large car or pickup truck (not to mention a delivery truck) will easily break a dry pour just because of the speed and weight of a vehicle causing movement. If the ground is completely dry, like a desert, then okay, but in reality there are constant changes underneath in the ground from rain, humidity, freezes, and drying that cause a disruption beneath the concrete. The best way to describe that is to think of a large semi-truck moving across a frozen river or lake. If you drive really slow and easy, and only when it's been super dry, then the driveway will work. Otherwise, your gonna need to rip it up and buy a small mixer for driveway and get yelled at by your wife for just not hiring someone. Maybe if you go twice the depth of a normal wet pour concrete driveway? I'm always willing though.

[@jodysephus6922]

@@timbob987 Thanks Timbob i believed you just saved me a big headache.

[@McAnultyBunch]

@@timbob987this is why we changed our mind for our above ground pool with this method. It’s all fun and games until you have to spend time destroying what you thought was worth the time and money. 😢

[@raywmontgomery]

How did you attach your sander to the board?

[@ciennagirl53]

Drape a wire over the top put screws and screw them down tight would work

[@HankBaugh]

I used 3" deck screws into the 2x4s. Had to drill holes in the sander plate for that.

[@michiganborn8303]

Curious how you kept the sander from falling off tge 2x4's?

[@HankBaugh]

You can see more details on the screeding tool here. kzbin.infofGmETBtcK_M?feature=share

[@michiganborn8303]

@@HankBaugh Thanks

[@leshopper7863]

Antony wanna come south of Indy and do mine lol

[@AJourneyOfYourSoul]

I’m going to dry pour a 6’ x 8’ slab for a shed. After curing the concrete I am going to put epoxy paint over the top and then build the shed.

[@lederse]

how much gravel up put down and would 3.5" thick be enough for a shed ?!

[@HankBaugh]

I just put about 3" of crushed stone down. If you are just talking about a shed to store bikes and lawn mowers, I would be comfortable with 3-1/2". Keep an eye out for other expert opinions sure to chime in though. 😆

[@lederse]

@@HankBaugh thank you, yes, is for a tools/yard shed, nothing superheavy ! I live in a very cold winter climate too, any concerns for this approach ? On the rocks -did you tap them in ? Again, thanks for quick reply!

[@HankBaugh]

I did tamp them, but only with the bucket of my tractor. Did not put a lot of effort into that because my slab just has to hold up a shelter and a few picnic tables.

[@HankBaugh]

If you want a better video of the process, try this one. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hn2Vl4eVZbqkiq8feature=shared It is a sidewalk, but my video skills are improved little on this one.

[@longshooter457]

OH BOY!!!!!

[@tsvrfam4924]

So how many bags in total you used for 21*14 slab?

[@HankBaugh]

50-60 bags per section

[@peternewman3215]

So 2.5" thick 7x14 sections use 60 80lb bags? you used 180 bags total?

[@HankBaugh]

3-1/2"

[@jerryg957]

How long before you can put any weight on that sort of slab ?

[@HankBaugh]

You can walk on it after 24 hours. I was going to wait at least a week before building my shelter on it, but it has been even longer because I had to special order my materials. I am okay with the extra time.

[@timbob987]

28 days full cure on wet pour. 7 days is about 90% cure.

[@doncc6080]

I used Mastercraft on a small pad and it is terrible. I think it is only good as a wet pour. Hank they make concrete resurfacer Quikcrete is called recap there are other brands also it goes on very thin and will make your patio smooth

[@HankBaugh]

I probably will do something like that, or epoxy paint it later on. Thanks for the tips!

[@rollen901]

It can always be resurfaced later if you don’t like the exposed aggregate, they make concrete resurfacer

[@HankBaugh]

You are absolutely right. You could apply an epoxy paint, or you could polish it.

[@bobcorio5145]

How did you attach sander to 2x4?

[@HankBaugh]

Here is a video dedicated to explaining how I built the powered screeding tool. kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJiyeIKtedx_Y5Ifeature=shared

[@Jackssm123]

How long are the sections?

[@HankBaugh]

They are 14 feet long, 7 feet wide

[@billymccarthy8703]

It would be nice to know how deep four or 6 inches

[@HankBaugh]

This slab is 4" thick.

[@dougtaylor8735]

I see the process, but I don’t understand how the right amount of water gets all the way through the slab. Has anyone done any compressive strength tests on this type of pour?

[@HankBaugh]

Well my friend, you have come to the right place. I have done quite a bit of testing and learned a bit more each time. kzbin.info/aero/PLuMVG-7SstUaajma_b513s6zGrsiSu4HF&feature=shared

[@coppertone379]

Motor mix for the top layer

[@HankBaugh]

Not needed - If screeded properly the rocks will go below the surface.

[@MrJoeygettinmoney]

So how much in material did you spent on this slab ?

[@HankBaugh]

About a thousand dollars total.

[@jeffsim8664]

Did you compare the cost of just ordering the concrete from the local plant. Where i am i can get a cu yard delivered for 300.00 ..21x14 needs 3 yds so under 1000.00 but 160 bags if concrete here costs about 1800.

[@HankBaugh]

@jeffsim8664 I have about $1,000 in the entire thing. Cost was not the factor though. I literally had no other option. Could not get a contractor, did not have help. I did this 100% on my own.

[@jeffsim8664]

@@HankBaugh that makes sense.. small job no contractor and if there is no concrete plant handy dry makes perfect sense. And interesting concept never done it before. I just priced out a small job in my back yard. 100 ft. 1 yard concrete delivered 329 tax in. Wood decking going to be 425 plus. Dry pour about the same. 56 bags at 66 lbs and 8.80 plus tax. This is canada so our prices are higher in many things

[@user-mg5qd2wu6d]

How many bags it take.?

[@HankBaugh]

180 bags

[@markosdrakos8062]

How many times should we wet it?🤔

[@HankBaugh]

It really depends on how dry your climate is being. I mist 2 or 3 times, then water a little heavier every hour the rest of the day, and even a few times the next day.

[@JaredGWood]

Wear a high quality mask and Gloves and Sleeves when working with this material. It can really cause long-term harm from a short term exposure. Rinse yourself thoroughly with vinegar if exposed.

[@101mazz]

You now have a huge piece of sheetrock. Don't sit anything on it you don't want to ruin.

[@kellysanchez1000]

How are you calculating the bags? You said 60 bags? Doesnt seem like enough for a 21x14

[@HankBaugh]

It was 60 per section. 3 sections, 180 bags.

[@kellysanchez1000]

@@HankBaugh O gotcha.. that makes sense. Thanks man. You gave me the incentive to try this. I got a 15 x 30 but looks doable. Can I ask why you broke it into 3 sections? Just because of the size?

[@HankBaugh]

@kellysanchez1000 I wanted to be able to screed across my forms. I thought that seven feet would allow me to use an 8' 2x4 to screed. BTW, I found that is nearly impossible to do alone, that is why I came up with my version of a vibrating screed tool.

[@kellysanchez1000]

@@HankBaugh o man Great tip. Thanks again man appreciate it. Wish me luck ha ha

[@kellysanchez1000]

@@HankBaugh crap one more question. If mine is 15x30… what would you estimate in bags ?

[@howardkurtus7069]

22:15 material quickcrete

[@rostamr4096]

Cement is ver caustic, I am surprised you are not worried about your hands and inhaling that stuff...

[@HankBaugh]

I am pretty "old school"

[@timbob987]

It's also gets hard to pass when swallowed

[@mauriceevans6546]

Maybe put half bags in the form and then the mesh and it will not be under the slab

[@HankBaugh]

I actually pulled the mesh up as I went along. Just did not record that much. I am sure it is in there on at least one shot.

[@MaxStArlyn]

Do you think a dry pour could create concrete that could support a car?

[@HankBaugh]

I am planning to answer that question scientifically in the near future. I am partnering with a professional who tests concrete strength to get actual ACI Standard results. Be sure you are subscribed so you don't miss it!

[@MaxStArlyn]

@@HankBaugh ok

[@McAnultyBunch]

@@MaxStArlynmany videos on this exact question. We were going to do a dry pour for our pool until people in comments told us to watch videos about the failures of heavy things on dry pours. Luckily we only built the frame and haven’t bought the concrete yet.

[@HankBaugh]

How big is the pool going to be? Just curious.

[@McAnultyBunch]

@@HankBaugh it’s a 16’ round pool. The cements Psi on the bags we would buy say 4,000psi but that’s if we follow instructions for regular pour concrete. With dry pour a test was done and the psi drops to 3,000s. Our pool holds 6,000 gallons of water. So this wouldn’t hold.

[@Casmige]

The vibrating thing on the screeding boards is a great idea but what you fail to understand is that all you’re doing is vibrating the finer dusty material down below the surface and that is why the rock is coming up whereas if you just did it by hand & with a buddy? it wouldn’t happen.

[@HankBaugh]

Actually just the opposite. The vibrating, or side to side oscillation actually pressed the aggregate down and brings the powder to the surface. Same affect as the sawing motion you use doing a two man screed as you suggest. Benefit is a much easier process and you can do it with one person... even one handed if you like.

[@Anubis78250]

I'm simply shocked at the quantity of "dry pour" videos there are here, with a distinct lack of "dry pour" sand castles.

[@andyh8239]

When I wet pour, I mix it as dry as possible and use a concrete vibator to agitate all the air out of it, then flood it for a month there-after. Dry pouring scares the hell out of me. It looked alright, but how strong is it? 😬

[@ScottyP1612]

Strong

[@HankBaugh]

We will all know the answer to the strength question soon. I am doing experiments with wet mix VS dry pour and will have them crushed by a professional concrete strength testing outfit. I am excited to find out how the two will compare!

[@andyh8239]

@@HankBaugh Freeze thaw cycles are likely harder on dry pour as well.

[@HankBaugh]

@@andyh8239 That remains to be seen I guess.

[@DanielRichards644]

assuming this was a 6" slab the math comes to about 240 80 pound bags or about $1,200 bucks from the local hardware store or big box chain like Lowes/Home Depot, this much concrete to do the whole slab would fit in a single concrete truck (as it's a little under 5.5 Cubic Yards), you likely would have been quicker and better off calling a concrete supplier (not installer) to have a truck delivered then you finish it and the project is done in a few hours of labor after the forms are built instead of the weeks you spent doing 3 separate pours and the back breaking labor of moving that much tonnage of concrete.

[@HankBaugh]

Thanks for your input. Your math is off though. It is a 4" slab. It was dry poured in three separate sections, each section took a few hours to pour, not weeks. I just did not do it all on the same day. As explained in the video, a truck could not get to the location, so the concrete would have to be buggied up the hill. I am a one man show, so that would not leave anyone to screed it out while I am running up and down the hill. This is way to big a job for one person doing it ANY other way than Dry Pour. This is why so many people love dry pour. It is on your own terms.

[@jakefriesenjake]

Just buy concrete with no stones for the top layer

[@tcwc2777]

Your rebar shouldn't be that low. It won't hold the concrete like it's suppose to, hence do it's job

[@stevesmith1493]

Water would help!😂 It causes the rocks to sink and the concrete to float. I don’t understand the infatuation with NOT mixing with water?? It’s easier

[@HankBaugh]

Well, obviously it is Not easier or everyone would do it that way. Dry pour is far easier than wet mix. The most strenuous thing about it is dragging a bag off the back of your truck. kzbin.info7-r_cmXIHR4?feature=shared

[@armedmariner]

Someone commented that their delivery cost for wet mix is only about $300/yard. I'll use that number in my math here to compare wet mix to dry mix cost. If slab is 21 x 14 x 6" deep = 147cu ft x .037037 cu ft / yard = 5.4cu yds x $300/yd wet mix dellivery = $1633. Around here I can get 80# bags of Quickcrete in volume for $4.48 a bag. An 80lb bag contains 0.022cu yds of concrete. So this project would take about 250 bags or about $1120 + tax at about 4.5% here would cost me = $1170. So I could do this myself for $1170 or pay a mix truck to come in for $1633. Doing it myself would mean I could save $463. Which I could apply to buying lumber for my side walls. I guess you get a mix truck to come in if you don't want to do all this work and you got the cash to burn. Another way to look at it is that I like doing the work (it is a good workout) and I like doing projects myself I can be proud of later. I can drive my F350 and trailer on the lawn right up to where I'm going to do this so assuming they fork lift load me at Lowe's then I have to move 20,000 pounds of bags. Like I said, nice workout if you go slow and use your legs. I'm about to try this on a 20 x 14 which I'll do in sections like this guy. What will I do different or the same? * I'll add some foam expansion joints * I'll use rebar to tie into my house slab * I'll lift that rebar up off grade with pieces of bricks I have laying around so it is in the middle of a 6" slab * I'll thoroughly dampen the grade before I lay in my dry pour...and I'll dry pour up over the rebar first and lightly level it out and then water it good....then I'll pour the top 3" and finish it off like this process. I'm thinking wet the grade good, wet the intermediate area good and then do the mist-down-from-the-top process like this guy does. * I'll religiously keep it wet for 30 days and if the sun is gonna be hot then I'll throw some plastic on top after wetting. * I won't strip forms off for 30 days either except the inner ones when I go to do the middle section. * When I do middle section I'll drill into the outer sections to set in rebar to tie slabs together. * I like his method of digging some post holes where my front wall posts will go to support a lean-to tin roof structure (good idea there!) but I'll probably wet pour those holes right before I start the dry pour because I'd like those to be pretty darn firm since I'll drill a sheet metal 4x4 or 6x6 anchor down into them from the top when done. * I love this guy's screed idea and I'm doing that. WHAT ELSE WOULD YOU DO OR NOT DO PEOPLE? I AM ALL EARS FOR SUGGESTIONS AT THIS POINT. HELP ME MAKE MY PROJECT GREAT! MAGA STYLE. I'm in no rush to finish this fast. I'll do all the work by myself. When my slab is done I'll be using it to store a yard tractor and use it like a garden shed plus I need a workbench for ammunition reloading and I can easily do that out in that little lean-to since it will be big enough. My wife will love me because I can clean out "her" garage for her! Oh and great news is the house wall I'm tying into has an outside 110V GFCI outlet so I can tap into that and feed a few more outlets, some overhead LED lights and a switch. I'm going to use a wide roll up door on the front along with a 3' man door. I am not constrained by how high I can put the roof so I want to finish the roll up door so I can get maybe a full 8' of clearance minimum when door is in the up position. I'll never drive boats or cars in there, just a zero turn. Nice little project. My wife is going to help her mom for a month so I'm going to surprise her when she comes home. It won't be done by then but she'll get the big picture quick when she sees it. I'm all about making my wife happy and I am also wanting that HE-SHED for me! Guarantee there will be a mini-fridge and TV in there!

[@HankBaugh]

I love how you have researched, made a plan, and are learning from everyone else's mistakes. That is why we make videos. We show how we did it, then let you know how it turned out so you can improve on what we did. I have a one thing for you to consider with your layered watering approach. Once you get that first layer wet, you won't be able to work your next layer towards you from the middle. In other words, you will have to work your screed from outside your work area. It will take two people. Otherwise you are sitting on your knees in wet cement. Same issue with propping up your rebar with bricks. You can't get on top of it to pull your mix toward you. (I actually pulled mine up into the middle if the mix as I worked back.) That must not be clear in my video because others have made the comment about the rebar being on the ground. I am sure you will find a way around these issues. Sounds like you are a good planner. Let us know how it all turns out. Thanks for watching and for the comments.

[@HankBaugh]

Also, I am very glad you are keeping it wet fir 30 days. You must have watched my moist curing experiments. If not, check it out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o3rCZZqsprmDiskfeature=shared

[@toja1988]

Why is this a new fad?

[@timbob987]

Satisfaction of trying something that others are too afraid to try themselves.

[@GulfCoast98]

Strongly recommend you saturate the ground before starting a dry pour. There is no way in the world it will provide more water than the concrete needs. NO WAY. . . Just to be clear: SATURATE THE GROUND BEFORE STARTING A DRY POUR. What that means is; water the ground the night before, then water the ground the next morning,. Then water again just before dumping the dry concrete on the ground before dumping out the bags IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO USE TOO MUCH WATER

[@oneway707]

How are you NOT WEARING GLOVES or a mask? You do know the properties of concrete have serious burning effects on your skin, eh?

[@HankBaugh]

I am a risk taker! lol

[@oneway707]

@@Shwa44 Who, me or the author of this video?

[@randolphmullinofsky4761]

Way to police the world. You go girl.

[@oneway707]

Thank you! It's such a chore...but I'm doing it! @@randolphmullinofsky4761

[@lancewilliamson7658]

Shut up nerd

[@travlangley1]

900 bucks to have a concrete truck..at least where I am. Seems like a lot of extra work

[@HankBaugh]

Much easier way for 1 person job. Not possible with Truck.