Why I DON'T use back button AF (+ 4 more AF tips & tricks) for bird photography

For bird photography (or wildlife photography in general), many photographers rely on the so-called back button autofocus. The idea behind this is to decouple the autofocus from the shutter release in order to be able to react more flexibly. However, this setting has never convinced me in practice. I will show you why and also what alternative I found for me in bird photography. In addition, there are another 4 AF tips, which revolve around the choice of autofocus fields, the different AF modes and also settings on the lens (especially telephoto lens).
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[@RingWraith66]

I've used BBF for years and wouldn't change back, I absolutely love it! 😃

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

I know that many people like it, I just prefer my own setup 😊

[@michaelk5173]

Yours was the best treatise i have seen so far on this topic. My joystick now moves my AF to wherever I want it…. Perfect! Thanks,and you’ve another subscriber👍🏼

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Happy to hear that

[@michaelk5173]

@@FabianFoppNaturephotography I have found that I using the * as an Autofocus Stop is actually great. So I can use all the excellent features of the R5 system, and still get use out of BBF.... I can compose and hit*.... then take my shots, release and off to the races.... Thanks again for stirring my brain!

[@andrass.2842]

Finally! This is the first video I see that shares my opinion. I think it's important to mention that: in case you use a DSLR or a camera that doesn't have a descent AF system, using BBF is justified. But if you use a modern mirrorless camera with amazing subject and eye tracking af, using BBF is a step back. Those who learnt BBF with a DSLR and then bought a mirrorless but still stick to BBF, they don't use advantage of the technology they got with the mirrorless camera. Now we want the camera to focus almost all the time. I know there are different scenarios when we don't want to focus, but it's so rare that it's not worth to change the settings, and also, we can just solve it with a focus hold button, or switch the AF off on the lens. I don't understand all the known photographers on youtube who have flagship mirrorless cameras and still recommend BBF. Again, I think it makes sense with DSLRs, but not with mirrorless (with descent af system).

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks! Yes, I basically really don’t need to stop the AF anymore 😃

[@gerhardbotha7336]

I agree. Back button AF is a hangover from the DSLR days. On my little R7, I mapped a button to toggle eye detection. I find it easier to use spot af with expand and move the camera to put the spot on the target, then i press the shutter button half down, then the AF locks, then I compose. Then shoot. The tracking will keep focusing on the target. No need to mess with the joystick. If I do several shots with similar compositions, I will use the joystick. I had to unlearn quite a bit to use the R7 for what it actually is good at. For birds this strategy works. When the AF struggle with obstacles or backgrounds I find nudging the manual focus ring usually solves the problem to help the camera find the target of interest.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

That sounds like a nice solution as well 😊

[@carldowningphoto]

I have never not used back button focus. However, after your last video I reconfigured my buttons and have similar settings to you including a preset option set on the exposure lock button. Going to spend a few months with this. Cameras I use are the R6 and R7

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts after a couple of months! It comes down to personal preferences I guess

[@hepgeoff]

I switched to BBAF on my Fuji and tried it for several weeks. I didn't care for it, so I switched back. I prefer using the joystick to move the autofocus point.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks for sharing your impressions!

[@pokharel_puru]

Good one, with reverse BBAF the thumb is free to change Ev Comp as needed without hindering the AF tracking.....

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks!

[@Jviotr]

100% my issue with BBF. When I’m doing small bird photography with long lens, depth of field is small and they never stop moving. I like being able to continuously focus and move focus point from DSLR days, and I couldn’t do that with my finger glued to the aF on button. In the rare instances when I want to stop focus, I prefer to just press af lock button as you suggested, reverse BBF. In those instances, I’m usually less concerned about moving autofocus point. Though I do feel like I’m not part of the cool BBF club sometimes.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks, very interesting to hear that I‘m not the only weirdo 😅😉

[@alansach8437]

Nowadays, with eye and head af, the camera does the work of moving the focus points around. I love dual back button af on my Canons. One set for eye focus and the other to spot focus for those times the camera can't locate the eye or face. Having said that, there are certainly instances when I can see the advantage of having focus linked with the shutter. One that comes to mind for me is when I am in freezing temperatures and I am using a remote trigger inside my mitten. Don't think you are weird at all. Each system has advantages and disadvantages.

[@KoenKooi]

On my 7D I used BBF, but after switching to the RP I changed the AF-ON button to do spot AF and kept the shutter button for regular AF. This is useful for forcing the focus through branches and other things nature puts in front of the subject.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

And I do Shutter for Spot and AF-On for tracking 😊

[@alansach8437]

@@FabianFoppNaturephotography I would think they would battle each other. Like I would focus with af on and then hit the trigger and it would refocus as I took the picture. This must take perfect coordination!

[@dee.other.artist8091]

I agree, I do similarly. One more tipp: You can set the C1/C2 custom modes to the configuration required and then toggle quickly between them. And just a detail: You mention the joystick to move the focus point, but it’s much faster with the thumb on the screen :-) Cheers from Zürich!

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Danka 😀 Yes, I tried the screen but I still prefer the joystick

[@wingsandthings.]

Great video on the back button af topic. I tried bbaf for awhile this summer and it just felt weird and used up my thumb that could be using the joystick like you said. I am also doing a “reverse” back button af.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks!

[@forsterl.stewart414]

BACK BUTTON FOCUS: Today's modern DSLR / MIRRORLESS cameras, back button focus is really not necessary. When back button was useful was at a time when the a.f. points were limited to such a small portion on the viewfinder screen. Like when 9 points were all that was available. Today most professional photographers use back buttons for many other options. I never use back button for focusing generally, I leave tracking on and Eye Detection off, since most of my Wildlife is moving. On the R7 at least, I've found that Eye Detection isn't as consistent as it is on the R3/R5, so for Birds in flight or rapidly moving animals it's better to be able to quickly get on target and let tracking follow the subject. I get a higher keeper rate this way. For static/perched animals, I usually have time to toggle Eye Detection on and if it is still having difficulty latching onto the eye, I can always turn tracking off. Today the main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off center) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera. I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead. With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary all you need do,is press rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then if it moves just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy...very few professional photographers use back button for focusing, measly to change some settings in the A.F. Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, eye detection on/off,start/stop subject tracking or on Canon to Register Recall Function. Also possible to program a rear button to a single point a.f. selection or any one of the cluster boxes. With today's DSLR'S / MIRRORLESS the possibilities are numerous. My r3 has numerous options for a.f. operational interfaces. Using my eye , rear lcd touch screen, joystick or top and rear dials to select movement of where to start focus. My r5 and r7 have quite a few options as well. Besides all that: Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger. Thanks for sharing 👍🏻

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

[@markrigg6623]

Its the ability to have multiple focus buttons set to different types of focus configurations that people who just use the shutter button miss out on. Can be extremely valuable for certain subjects and situations in terms of how fast the photographer can react.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Yes, that’s also what I use with my setup 😊

[@marcoj1970]

I did get used to some sort of BBF, even if it took a while. The real turning point for me was when I moved to mirrorless (Canon) I wanted to have two different buttons one for traditional single point focus and another for eye tracking. I did find your same problem of moving the focus point while focusing, but on the other side moving my thumb too much was tiring, so I came out with this: Since my ring finger naturally sits of the DOF button, I decided to assign traditional focus to the DOF button (thus having my thumb free to move the focus point), and eye detection to the AF-ON button (when I don't need to move a focus point). This way two different fingers naturally sit on the two different focus buttons, thus making switching between the two focusing methods or stopping focus altogether super fast. I recognize you need good finger coordination (I do play the piano!), but then the only (small) movement I need is sometimes moving the thumb from the AF-ON button to the multicontroller to move the focus point, and as a result my hand doesn't tire over long shootings

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Good idea! Maybe my hands are also too small (or the coordination you mentioned) but I always have a bit trouble reaching and pressing the DOF button.

[@kevins8575]

I have this a "like," but am never going to give up BBF.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks. Sure, it’s often a matter of personal preference

[@helloianzakharov]

There some other scenarios where you need to use back buttons focus. For example when you shoot small birds in grass. Eye AF constantly make a mistakes because of obstacles, and you need to prefocus instantly. Joystick can’t help in that situation. Your example is good for bigger animals I think. Thanks for sharing your thoughts

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Hmm, I was just using spot af in these situations (with the joystick) and sometimes adjusting the focus manually

[@3Kiwiana]

I’m just starting out with fairly basic knowledge. I just got the R6mii the joystick was already set factory to move focus point around and I like it like that that. Also I learned that servo is as accurate as one shot so find servo more practical for most situations.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

I basically always keep it in Servo (except if I use a dedicated setup for landscapes)

[@3Kiwiana]

@@FabianFoppNaturephotography thanks for replying mate I appreciate it. 👍

[@sexysilversurfer]

I only started using BBF a year ago after more than 20yrs. There are times when I don’t like it as it doesn’t give confirmation of focus lock so trying to figure out how to switch between one shot and servo quickly on a 77D and 6D.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

I‘m not entirely sure about these two cameras, but on some you can assign a button for that

[@nordic5490]

I use the same reverse process to bbaf. Ie, focus on with half shutter press, plus a custom focus lock button if I need it (rarely). Dof is tight, and I am shooting bif, especially small fast movimg birds and dragonflys. I am always using af. I cannot see how bbf is of any use to me.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

Thanks for sharing your thoughts!

[@stefanjohnsson5661]

Does shutter af interfere or override back button eye af in any way?

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

No, from my experience back button eye af „overrides“ the shutter af

[@3Kiwiana]

What if you don’t do wildlife stuff. Do you need back button focus for other applications

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

It can also be useful for other stuff such as landscapes or sports

[@rayspencer5025]

I totally agree. I found BBF to be a ridiculous way to acquire focus. I almost always want focus corrected right at the moment I snap the shutter. To switch from shutter button to BBF to shutter button takes a huge amount of time when your subject is likely to move. I too take full advantage of pre-positioning my focus spot according to my desired composition, so there is little reason to use BBF for that. I also am in the process of getting used to setting and switching to Focus Tracking on the R7, which is wonderful. On previous cameras that I have owned that had such a feature, it performed poorly, so I never used it. In situations where I have to recompose too quickly to re-position my Focus Spot, I go back to what we "old timers" have always done. While looking through the viewfinder, I physically move the camera so the Focus Spot is where I want it to be, 1/2 press the shutter button, recompose, and snap. After decades of doing this, it is now a conditioned reflex and I do it extremely quickly, without a thought. In the very rare situations where I may want to lock the focus after autofocusing, the R7 has the Focusing switch conveniently located right where my right middle finger can flick in to manual, thus locking my focus. Some lenses have a focus switch but the location is too variable to be quick enough. Consistently using the bottom on the body more reliable.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

That’s also true, on the R7 you don’t need a AF-OFF button

[@TonyGrant.]

Its a pity you can't remap the LOCK button on the R7.

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

I totally agree! I have no use for this button

[@sunngifuwetzel1197]

Just use AF-LOCK...

[@FabianFoppNaturephotography]

That’s what I mentioned in the video, right?