Why not to use a Block Plane | Paul Sellers

[@WHITTONZ]

I use mine for making small chamfers. I know that my No.4 will do the job nicely, but there's something quite satisfying in the way it fits into one hand. I feel close to the connection between the tool and the wood, which is a big part of the fun of being an amateur. I enjoy your videos and thank you for the time and effort you put into them.

[@owdman69]

I've worked as a joiner for nearly 50 years doing architectural period restoration/replication, sash windows etc. The block plane is about the most used as it is the principle fitting and finishing plane, on site mainly but also in the workshop but not really a bench plane. One handed use for taking off arris's, trimming through-tenons, fine finishing to make things fit, coarse removal for scribing boards etc.

[@happyhonker123]

It’s interesting how different woodworkers value tools differently. As a violin-maker I use block planes about 2-3 hrs a day. One of the top 3 essential tools for me.

[@Cadwaladr]

Well, you got all kinds of tiny little planes for violin making, that's a very specialised craft.

[@darthschumy]

Paul Sellers did state/qualify his opinion with the caveat: they are useful for "small work". Overwhelmingly, there are many in Paul's primary field of woodwork, that insist a block plane is essential and it is indeed interesting why. I don't have much respect for many so called pro's in the woodwork industry. The skills in the trade have regressed for close to 200 years, where we now have to accept those skills have been lost. Almost all relevant tradies now, do not understand wood movement, are useless without machines, where they can't design or build anything unless it uses engineered wood and everything they create won't last a decade. Paul might disagree with me, in regard to the skills being lost, but they have been, because I won't be able to find (locally) someone who can complete a job without a machine and/or using real wood. I would imagine Bagel, you are possibly a very rare exception, considering you build violins. Paul obviously is too and constantly challenges my perceptions (as he has done here yet again). After the initial shock, I agree with his reasoning about not needing a block plane. My only gripe is this: why didn't Paul bloody tell me this earlier! (note: I bought every block plane Luban/QS made years ago + spare parts) ..... lol. Humour aside, I would have bought them anyway, because I just "like owning a block plane" or half a dozen.

[@hellomate639]

I agree with this too. Often I need to get something small because I'm getting into lutherie.

[@JamesKeltan]

haha, yes, i make canoe paddles and the most used tools for me a spokeshave and a blockplane, its very interesting to see the diffrent kind of wood working.

[@SkillCult]

Context is king. When a block plane is good... when you don't have a vice when you work on small stuff a lot when you do small woodwork while traveling and want a plane in your basic wood working kit (in order, knife, folding saw, hatchet, shoe maker's rasp, plane, 1/4 inch chisel) when you don't want to carry a big plane around in a small tool kit and won't have a vice anyway (carpenters on the job often love their block planes) for awkward, in place trimming and chamfering But I'm not a full on shop based wood worker and those are the situations I'm more likely to be in, so I find myself grabbing a block plane the majority of the time, off a shelf with planes of every size. I would even recommend a block plane as a first plane for most people that I deal with. They can add from there as they become more domesticated wood workers. Of course Paul has an entirely different context and his recommendation probably makes 100% sense for most people that watch this channel and want to get into woodworking this way. they are pretty useless for making any long true surfaces and joints. For carpenters on the job and people like me who usually start at the firewood pile with a hatchet, making small items, block planes rock. I think I have 6 or 7 of them.

[@Becka_Harper]

I find them great for final thicknessing of kumiko strips.

[@carpentryandwoodwork2018]

Plane and simple! for me, a block plane has been part of my tool kit for over 40 years and I wouldn’t be without one!

[@andrewschafer8986]

For woodworking in a shop all day everyday I agree. For a remodeler/carpenter/woodworker block planes are the way to go on site for several tasks.

[@titus142]

It is a carpenters tool afterall...

[@Beakerbite]

The best part about a block plane is that it's portable. But yeah, they aren't very easy to use for anything more than edge skimming.

[@titus142]

@@Beakerbite Totally, I use mine constantly for that, and I'm glad to have it. I just wouldn't list it as something you should get upfront before several other tools that are more essential.

[@doct0rnic]

I find this to be refreshing and sound advice. Most videos who say you absolutely need a block plane are more or less advertising for tool companies. When I first started getting into wood working, the first videos and blogs I saw, recommended I buy a block plane, a no 4, a jack and a jointer. One website said it either had to be a lie nielsen or a bedrock only. Well I didn't want to spend over $1000.00 for planes when I am a beginner. Part of the reason I wanted hand tools was so I didn't have to buy an expensive electric planer and jointer. When I found Pauls website, my confidence was boosted as I was impressed he did all his work with 1 plane. The planes I use the most now are the number 3, the number 4 and the 5 1/2. I can see me using a block plane if I were fitting cabinets in a home build, but even then, I would stay on the cheap end.

[@Rapperdul]

As a carpenter the block plane is one of my favourite tools for taking of edges and when laying herringbone parquet, but i have never used it in my workshop there i use a bigger plane so i guess it just depends on what you are going to use it for

[@thethirdman225]

I think it comes down to your work method. You have use for one, Paul Sellers works differently. I'm not anywhere near as experienced as Paul Seller but I have found that if I had a block plane available, I tended to use it for the very thing he showed: knocking off edges. That said I don't own one and I doubt I will.

[@JoshRecollet]

I agree. The same here. On the job as a trim carpenter, it’s one of my most used tools. I’m the shop, it collects dust.

[@LoneRiderz]

People, he's saying it isn't essential. My understanding of the word essential is something that you cannot do without. Obviously everyone has different needs.

[@krismania7070]

Absolutely right, LoneRiderz! I actually like my LA block plane, especially on small miters, and I find it handy elsewhere sometimes; handy, but not, as you say, essential!

[@randomistmech]

@@krismania7070 Obviously with unlimited budet you'd have every variation of every tool, which we know is not realistic, but depending on the priority of work different tools fit different craftsmen or women.

[@abrannan]

Exactly, he even says in the description that he pulls his off the shelf once or twice a month. Granted, he's doing hand tool work every day, so that's not frequently at all. But it's not never. He's also talking about its value as a first plane for a new woodworker. I'm sure there are specialized types of woodworking where a block plane is more useful than in what Paul's doing, but he's not talking about those scenarios.

[@spagati]

@@randomistmech Even with unlimited budget it is better to buy the tools you need. Tools need place to storage and the space to storage near your workbench is limited and your tools should be in condition ready for use so you have to keep them sharp. Nonetheless I use my block plane almost every time I work with wood.

[@hartleymartin]

I agree. Block plane useful for certain things, but not essential. I typically find that I use it only on very small work pieces and for knocking off hard edges. The latter you could do with a piece of sandpaper on a cork block. I have a miniature shooting board to go with my block plane when I am trimming end grain on small pieces - often when making a small box, but not a regular "essential" item.

[@adrienrenaux6211]

I think block planes we really not made for use on a bench with a vise. I think they were made for carpenters and joiners on the job site. It's handy to have it in the pocket just for doing small trimming jobs without having to go to a bench with a vise

[@Prodmullefc]

that's an interesting take, now I can imagine a few times in my own work where having one probably would have helped me a lot

[@adrienrenaux6211]

@@Prodmullefc I am far from being the person that came up with the idea! I heard it here and there and tend to agree with it

[@jakestanton1350]

I’m a site carpenter and I love my block for take the edges off doors after planing them with an electric plane absolute must for a site chippy maybe not for a bench joiner tho

[@bobd.]

Yes, that is how I use mine. It is helpful when you need to finesse something for a tight fit. I keep it in my apron pocket, something I could not do with a #4 or even with a #3. :-)

[@leemoore7020]

As a Joiner on site the block plane came in for working on such things as trimming up the formica edging to worktop ends which would blunt my Record no4 quickly . In the Workshop ,...... rarely used So totally agree with Mr Sellers !

[@williamlattanziobill2475]

I use a block plane for chamfers/round overs. They are nice for cleaning up small boxes, and they excel when fitting scribed door casings and trim. Another good use is for fitting shingles and shims.

[@JerrySmith-ih9rd]

I’ve been a carpenter doing mostly trim work for over 40 years. A high end block plane is absolutely essential in that line of work. I transfer my using it to the workshop as well. I keep 2 of them plus a shoulder plane in my tool bucket at all times..

[@WarrenPostma]

That's it. For me, general woodworking and trim carpentry; Essential. Hand tool working with solid wood to make furniture? Not as much. For me, who makes a lot of stuff with edge banding on it. Essential.

[@sinclairmarcus]

every one works different sometimes it is about generating content

[@nasarazam]

Paul essentially covers fine woodworking. So take it in that context…

[@TermiteUSA]

I love my two stanley 12-220s, but to be fair it was my favorite first because it was rugged and designed well enough that it would work before I knew how sharpen and adjust it properly. Thanks to you Paul, it works as well as it did when I inherited as a boy. You know, that other century when people shook hands on a deal and weren't afraid of a good hug. Cheers

[@michaelnaughton5308]

Respectfully, while a master may not need a block plane, they are handy for beginners. They offer a more intuitive introduction to planing than a bench plane. Their form factor makes them instinctive to use and less intimidating. They are particularly helpful tools for a woodworker who doesn't yet have good work holding options and the skills to handle a bench plane the way you do. I started woodworking with a block plane and used it primarily for years before getting my first bench plane. I still have a fondness for them. Having said that, I do find myself using them less and less and reaching for an old number 4 more and more, in a large part because of learning from your generous videos.

[@matsuomasato]

There is one instance where block planes are very useful and that is boat building. Not only are you often working in tight spot and awkward angels, you're also most of the time working on something that is not straight, so a longer plane might simply not be able to work the high spot you need to take down.

[@adrianhatton8793]

100% mate

[@vihuelamig]

Pretty much essential in musical instrument making. Box making. I've done site chippy work and wouldn't want to be without one.

[@jimbo2629]

@@vihuelamig I’ve just used mine on a harpsichord lid! However Paul is always to be listened to.

[@philfoster4298]

Building split bamboo fishing rods, it is number 1 essential.

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@philfoster4298 nah, the block plane is much to heavy a weight for fishing with a bamboo rod. It holds the line to tight for the fish to take the hook well. But they do work great for model ship's anchors or bildge weights.

[@mikestewart505]

I began my working life as a carpenter, so I love my old block plane. Now I'm a nurse, so I'm saving up for a really nice 5 1/2, and thinking of making my 5 a scrub plane.

[@1stinlastout165]

Portability I find is second to none for this tool let alone the removal of the Arris and end grain work !

[@Mr_Rick]

My "go to" plane is a Stanley Bailey No 3 smooth. I use it for near everything. I also use my B/U L/A Block quite a bit. It's a utility plane IMO. Chamfering edges, removing some imperfections, touch ups here and there. I also use my Jack and love it but mainly for larger work. Everyone works differently and has their favourites. While it's important to be technically adept at knowing what each plane is good for and how to use it there is also an emotional side of loving a particular plane. Happy wood working!

[@frro28]

I love my no 3.

[@demacherius1]

I love my block plane and I never give it away. I just used it to round a grip for a Bow over. Works faster than sanding and leaves a nice optic. If you dont like the optics sand the rest of the way.

[@alecgarner]

I often use use my low angle block in a shooting board configuration for miters and squaring small component, works a treat, especially when the mouth is set ultra fine.

[@bighands69]

You can do that but it would not be essential and could all be achieved with a bench plane. A good number 4 can be used for everything and could be the only plane you need to own and if starting out would be the plane to buy.

[@richardsinger01]

That sounds like hard work. I prefer a no 5 on the shooting board. I like the mass and the length that gives it stability.

[@gchorchel]

I use block plane for smoothing the edges very often. I own only one spoke shave for now, so I don't have a lot of experience with spoke shaves, but I find using a small block plane is much easier for the type of work I do. I am bevelling the edges of crates about half a centimetre on each side from the top. What would definitely made this work much easier is the router, but I prefer to use hand tools due to less noise and sawdust. Bottom line, I find a block plane very useful in my day to day work.

[@eubie67]

Use my block plane all the time. Great tool. Very useful.

[@jeffeloso]

I bought a WoodRiver No 1 the other day (for various reasons, one being i just wanted to have one) and I am so delighted with it for use as a super block plane, but especially for working on small pieces of wood, giving the super-smooth finish attributed to Nos 3 through 5 but being much easier to control in such circumstances. I have not touched my block plane since.

[@kelvinsparks4651]

I must agree with you Paul my wife and son bought me a 12°block for xmas a few years back ( after many hints from me lol ) but to be honest I've hardly used it, like you I reach for a n° 4 or 4 and a half every time. Though I must admit it's my most cherished plane simply because of where it came from.

[@thegardenofeatin5965]

I like having a block plane around in a primarily power tool workshop. It's pretty good for breaking machined edges, trimming parts to fit, flushing up dowels and plugs, a block plane is much more convenient to grab and use. Plus, if you're from the Norm Abram school of woodworking, you're likely not all that into sharpening and setting up hand tools so a relatively simple block plane is likely a better fit.

[@joshnicholson3208]

when you run a block plane a little short of perpendicular (70-80 degrees) along a (rough) cut scribe line, it cleans it up pretty nicely, it also allows you to take off material along the scribe line being extremely maneuverable when run almost perpendicular. I use mine basically only for scribing, and occasionally for smoothing trasititions from one piece of baseboard to the next if one board is slightly wider than another, if you invest in a block plane its nice to get the lie nielsen rabbeting block plane for this reason.... oh yes another good use is to take a little length of shoe molding to get those perfect fits, cut a few rooms of shoe molding and shorten as necessary if necessary.

[@Rocketninja200]

I must *strongly* disagree. I'm using my block plane right now to hold my phone vertically on my table to watch this video while using a No. 4.

[@CindyL4261]

Favorite reply ever! 😂

[@thomasstone3513]

Now that was funny...

[@Mr_Rick]

Now that was plain cheeky! A Cheek Plane. ☺️

[@ninoding]

@CAD Thunkin I wonder if Rob cosman has done a review on the best block plane for holding phones?

[@christophercastor6666]

Brilliant! I was aghast to see the flat out disagreement with the video’s message, because Paul generally attracts a classy crowd. I choked on my chewing gum when I read your punchline! Classy crowd indeed; my apologies for assuming otherwise! Keep em coming! My block planes are for teaching my nephews, holding plans as paperweights, and for lending out. Can I borrow a planer? Sure I have just the one…. Even has this cool mouth adjustment…

[@Moccy.]

I'm partial to my Stanley #5 as my go-to plane over the #4 in most cases, but the #4 comes in a close second. But I do occasionally reach for the block plane (mostly for chamfering edges, or bringing glued-on edging down flush) mostly because I find that dialing in the the adjustable mouth really close to the blade helps reduce tear-out, whereas my #4 and #5 are typically set with a fairly open mouth - adjusting the frog (even with a depth adjustment screw) on the 4/5 is a pain compared to the block plane's adjustable mouth. I've also found it a little easier to control on narrow board end grain compared to it's larger cousins.

[@seydutz975]

One of the best and clearest on utube. Well done Paul. Trust the English👍

[@dwarfsbaneironfist2527]

Recently used a block plane to trim the ends of some dowels to repair some holes in a pine floor. The floorboards are 65 years old so there are gaps that I have filled with pine slivers, some areas along the edge of the room I needed the block plane to trim them down after installation. The pine slivers needed trimming to stop them bottoming out on the tongue of the floorboard, I used my block plane. There are many uses for a block plane, infact the old Stanley Tool kits like The Craftsman from the 1960's included a 60 1/2 low angle block plane, they were an essential part of a joiners kit. Going to building sites in the early 1970's with my father, the joiners Installing doors used block planes, they always had them to hand, they were constantly in use. I am suprised that Mr Sellers does not recommend them.

[@toysoldier46552]

I started off with a block plane, once I got my #4 Stanley I rarely reach for the block plane. Yes it's helpful in some instances like tight spaces but other than that, I've learned that I can do most things with the #4.

[@bighands69]

@Timbo Dewabem 4 or a 5 will do and it really is a personal preference.

[@thesquarewheel7057]

For me, the block planes best use is rounding stock. I use it when carving hiking sticks and canes. It slots in after the draw knife, and before a spoke shave and files. It follows the curves and dips of the wood for a more natural looking (not straight) stick. It also works well on end grain, but that more due to its size. Great video as always Paul. Thank you for all you do to help teach us.

[@montelott8570]

I love my little English stanley 60 1/2, its' narrow body is great for small work and fits my hand well. I do use a no.3 or 4 for work of a bigger scale.

[@anthonyromano8565]

As a contractor I use it to plane down to a scribe line on pine trim up to 3/4 thick , usually one handed. And to knock corners off. But the number 3 Stanley would do the same thing. But it won't fit in a tool belt when you are on a ladder.

[@cliffshaw9714]

Block planes are very handy tools for carpentry when you're working on a sawhorse and need a one handed plane. Great for minor fitting, cleaning up sharp edges, fixing sticky doors. That sort of thing. I use one out in the barn quite a lot. Horses are always breaking things.

[@theobolt250]

In The Netherlands we often call them endgrainwood plane. If sharpened correctly and adjusted well... works a miracle! On end grain.

[@joshpayne463]

Shots fired! The interwebs are gonna be a talking about this for years! Seriously though, I always learn a ton of stuff watching your videos. You are a very good teacher, and a light in this world. Thank you for your contribution to all of us.

[@aarondsalberg]

Well said.

[@ricktherecorder4416]

I have made this point here before, and I see someone else has also made the point: a block plane is essential in boat-building. In fact it is essential whenever working wood away from the bench, in situ, in restoration work, in awkward corners, overhead and where you only have one hand to spare for the tool, while the other balances you. In fact the plane I use more than any other is the Lie Nielsen rabbeting block plane, in which the iron extends the whole width of the plane, which not only gets one-handed into corners, but will also tidy up rabbets, tenons etc.

[@theeddorian]

Block planes are handy when you're doing finish carpentry, especially when for some reason you are working the plane with one hand. I installed about 80 feet of mop board and a similar length of picture rail. The pieces had to be installed in the house, while we were living in it, and to matched to the older wall and each other. I used a block plane for rounding over edges, trimming edge bevels to deal with undulations in a 90 year-old wall, and to fine tune lengths on the fly. They aren't as handy for working on a bench with proper work holding and I don't use them in the shop nearly as often. The only exception is a Lie Nielsen rabbet plane that is very handy trimming the cheeks of tenons and cleaning up rabbets.

[@debluetailfly]

Paul said they could be useful for very small work, and that he sometimes uses them for inlay. I read Phil Lowe would not allow his students to use a block plane in the furniture shop. Neither said the block plane was not good for carpentry or other uses. It seems like a lot of comments come from people who are using them for carpentry and musical instruments. Paul is trying to show us how to use a small set of tools to do the maximum amount of furniture work on a budget. Unfortunately, I don't even have a Stanley #4. I have a Union #4 with one side broken off; it works for light cuts, but flexes and chatters with heavier cuts. I have a Lakeside #4 I inherited. It works pretty well, maybe not quite as good as a Stanley.

[@wickedcreekwoodworks4570]

I was a student of Phil's, "not allow" is a bit strong. He would point out that a block plane is a carpenters tool, not really a furniture makers tool. He owned probably 50 block planes on his tool wall. It became a bit of a thing when he made the same points Paul Sellers is making in a FWW article online and the internet went ballistic about it, some quite toxic comments too. FWW had to shut down commenting on their FB page and the article page. So anyway it because a bit of a joke around the shop and Phil, enjoying the subtle humor of it all (as well as the drama I think) was happy to go along with it. Even staging a photo of students on a ladder using a block plane. He would often say "Only time you should be using a block plane is on a ladder!" which was, again, more about it being a carpenters tool. But we all had block planes and used them regularly for small things, and knocking edges off and such. I think sellers really puts it eloquently. Its not an essential tool to a woodworker, just a handy one. Why people get so up in arms about it I will never understand. Take it from the masters, they know a thing or two.

[@christ9359]

I have a little bit of nostalgia for my block plane. I bought a handful of planes (including a brand new Harbor Freight cheapo) when I first started with wood, and the block plane was the first one I could get to work in any decent fashion. So I have a soft spot for the little guy t,hough I don't use it too often.

[@ugaladh]

Other than camfering edges, I don't use mine often; however, I've always liked the adjustable mouth on block planes and sometimes wish my larger planes had that. I know, now days, you can get larger low angle planes with an adjustable mouth, but I'm not going to go about replacing all my larger planes.

[@shadbakht]

I was actually just in the market for a plane. Thank you. This helped.

[@markvankoersveld5881]

Depending on where folks buy their hardwoods a block plane is handy to take with you to see what the rough timber will look like once machined. This only works if your supplier will allow you to use it in this manner. If you are going to try this then first make sure your supplier is ok with it. I just made an Easel and needed a dowel for one of the parts, my cheapy block made light work of the oak I used. I guess its all about functionality.

[@503mcbee]

They are super helpful for finish carpenters running trim in the field. Carry one around in your bags all day and you are gonna be looking to lighten your load.

[@Anthony-H]

I use mine to chamfer edges and to shoot small/thin stock. Nothing a #4 couldn't handle. Not an essential tool, but it's nice to have.

[@davidpowell5437]

You've surprised me - I always thought they were supposed to be great for endgrain. You live and learn! But you have overlooked one important application - they excellent if yo have an assistant. The small, eager sort... I'm sure that's why they used to sell them at Woolworths!

[@AlexG-jn1iw]

You are right, they are good for end grain, I just used mine for making a chamfer on the end grain of a board the other day. I think what the video overlooked was that you could sharpen the blade at a lower angle (25 degrees instead of 30) making a total angle of 37 rather than the standard 45 of a regular bench plane

[@spagati]

The block plane (Lie Nielsen No 60 1/2) is the only plane I use almost every time when I build something with wood. I have quite a collection of good hand planes (Lie Nielsen, Veritas, German wooden hand planes, expensive Kanna) and I started selling the one I don’t use, but the block plane is the one I definitely will not sell and would rebuy it if stolen.

[@MikeBullockOnline]

I agree. I have a low angle stanley block plane I picked up on ebay. It is super useful, but I could easily live without it. I find it is most useful when I need make small refinements to already build pieces. To this end, it is small and light and this makes it good for awkward spots. I used it quite a bit on the final touches to some built in bookcases- taking the corner off some edges, bringing some trim to level with the case. Stuff like that. In sum, I agree with Paul but at the same time I'm glad I have the plane. It was inexpensive and doesn't take much space on the shelf and is a perfect tool for the job on relatively rare occasions.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Thank you for the quick tip Paul. I just tuned up one of several block planes that have accumulated in my shop yesterday afternoon. While it works well used one handed as you mentioned I found that it is limited to narrow stock. You can do wider stock (1' to 1.5") with some effort only if you can get a solid two handed grip on it. I think I will stick with my #4 Bailey. Take care and stay well.

[@Gisburne2000]

Very timely. I was just wondering if I should get one, and now I'm not wondering any more. I think the golden rule is probably: do I absolutely need a particular tool for the job I'm doing? If I do, buy one, if not, don't. Having said that, I think there are degrees of 'do I need it' - if you can get by on a single job using something else, do that, but if the tool would make half a dozen future jobs a little easier, there's a case for buying something, even if it's not 'essential'.

[@garyblake3130]

I own a couple of them but as you say they are what they are. I agree entirely to what you said about the low angle not really being a low angle, with the no 4 its a constant angle where as the bevel up planes are what you sharpen and add to the bed. I must admit I have managed all my life without a low angle bevel up, but succumbed and bought a low angle jack, for me it’s been a waste of money as it does nothing my no 5 cannot do. I suppose the only real difference is the thickness of the blade, but I have done nicely for over 40 years with my Stanley’s, and the difference is marginal.

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks a lot for the tip, Paul!!! 😊 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@linkedheartz]

thnks,paul!im from peru and i glade to see your videos.sorrry my english is bad.

[@MikeAG333]

Completely agree, Paul. They're far and away the least used plane in my workshop. However, you didn't mention one of their uses, which is on the shooting board, where they can be surprisingly good.

[@bobweiram6321]

Block planes are portable and handy to have in your apron or toolbox. It works great for checking the grain of rough lumber, chamfering corners and adjusting the fit of two mating parts. But in the workshop, it's nonessential and usually there's better tools.

[@awantamta]

It's always great to see you Paul

[@saigmundur]

I own a block plane that lives in my tool box. It's very handy to have on job sites because of it's small size. That way I can carry it in my pocket and use for small adjustments when I do flooring, trim or kitchen remodels/ renovation. I can see why it might not be that useful in a woodworking shop but on carpentry jobs it definitly has it's place. But then again I might just be one of those people who like to own a block plane lol!

[@gus23a]

That's d'accord to my experiences. I rarely use a block plane. I tried using it to smooth out dovetails, but found out very quickly that my wooden ECE smoothing plane does a way better job at it. You really don't need a whole lot of planes for most of the basic projects. A Stanley No. 4 or 4 1/2, maybe a No.5 for longer workpieces and a scrub plane. That should take you quite far.

[@dc5723]

Stanley #4 is my go to and favorite. I use that and some of my late dad's Baileys.

[@pupasfever]

The voice of experience has spoken and we absorb that experience, thank you Paul for sharing your knoledge & keep safe please.

[@eclear4evr]

Doesn't it depend on the different angles of the block plane blade? If you have the bevel set at the stand 25 degree angle, the you are looking at 37 degree cutting angle. You could even go as low as 20 bevel for hardwoods and 15 for softwoods, giving you a cutting angle of 32 and 27 degrees respectivly - great for end grain work. You can put a back bevel on the blade, which will re-inforce the edge, but keep the cutting angle the same. You could obvisouly skew the blade making it even easier to cut the end grain. I love Paul, and all his videos, but I strongly disagree with this one, Paul. But I would appreciate any comments from other woodworkers here! Thanks for reading!

[@nickyork8901]

I completely agree with you Nick. My block plane is very useful indeed, and I didn't understand Paul's point about comparing it with a smoother - totally different tools. Your point about being able to use a 25 degree angle is exactly what I though. If the blade is very sharp it is much easier to trim end grain with a block plane than a smoother (and no heft is required in that situation anyway) on relatively small surfaces as presented by say a 3" by 7/8" section on end. You also need to come at it from different angles to avoid tearout and the block plane is easier to balance and keep square when there is not much wood to rest on in front of the blade. I also use it all the time for smaller bits of work as Paul himself recognised, it is indeed essential for those situations where too much weight in the tool is a problem.

[@danielegger6460]

My first decent plane after a crooked Draper "Expert" was a low angle block plane which is still my most loved plane (despite now having acquired a couple more which wasn't easy!). It's great to use one handed, but also two handed (to "feel" squareness when finishing narrow boards), the adjustable mouth makes it super capable to prevent tearout, bevel up means I can easily change cutting angles by putting different blades in and doing so literally only takes seconds. With a 25° angle on the blade it is the perfect tool to finish up tricky hardwood end grain. It really is my goto plane, althougt I do have a very good #4 now. I even got a side rabbet block plane for good measure...

[@bronoun8884]

Worked topping stages at steeldeck . Used one to finish . Shallow bevel all round 8x4 deck . Unnecessary actually but it meant the on site chippie ( time served etc) didn’t see me as one of the engineers but a chippie just started. He taught me a few bits no one else ever would have. Also used before going full pelt on the fine sanding when At furniture spray shop laying 2 pack clear

[@ToraKwai]

for site work carpentry it's really handy (mostly knocking off corners, maybe a tweak in a door that's sticking) but joinery with better work holding facilities etc. yeah i can see why it's easier to use a plane you already have in hand like a number 4, the only reason i have a block plane is it's lighter to keep in my tool bag, if i were able to have all my tools in a cart or something i'd most likely have a 4 or a 5 with me all the time

[@dansolen9451]

I love your videos Paul. You have taught me a lot...But perhaps the best plane is the one your most used to? I’m a fiddle maker and I use block planes all the time. I do quite a lot of hand joinery which is why I watch your videos...but if I had to choose one or the other I would have a block plane. 25 five years specialized on small scale work I can do anything with a block plane but with a number 4 I am less comfortable. Also I can take thinner shavings with a block plane. I don’t use a 5 anymore. It’s a block plane a number four or a number 7 for me. Out of the three planes it’s the four I need the least. That said I do appreciate the no4 because it is short and light... and powerful. I agree that for joinery it is a brilliant tool.

[@mikaeljohansson3453]

No blockplane then, but someone could use a pair of scissors...Thanks for all the knowledge, and joy, you bring us, Paul! //Mikael Johansson, from the workshop.

[@nickpearsonuk]

Interesting, the utility of a block plane is very much dependant on the type of woodworking you do. As a guitar builder I’d go as far as to say it’s the most useful of planes. Paired with a low angle jack plane this covers 95% of my plane needs. Definitely go for the low angle version as you can then have a spare blade with a steeper bevel on it (40 to 50 degrees) for figured hardwoods or those with interlocking grain.

[@TNtoolman]

Good advice Paul... I don't have a block plane but I have a #4 Stanley... I'll put that money toward something more useful, like a new keg for my kegerator! Cheers from Nashville!

[@tylergordon696]

I use mine for mainly knocking off corners. You can buy a cheap one and sharpen it. Works just fine. It also fits in the tool belt. The Bailey plane does not

[@alphaomega7325]

Since I tend to minimize the amount of my tools, I spent my money for a skew block plane with adjustable mouth and a fence. So I saved a lot of money for a shoulder plane plus a rabbet plane plus a regular block plane. Happy days ;-)

[@James_T_Kirk_1701]

I completely agree. It is always lauded but I only ever use mine for chamfers.

[@werner134897]

I use my block plane in a low angle for end grain and my smoother in a high angle for surfaces with turning grain.

[@oregonAdogs]

A block plane is usually not a woodworkers plane it is a carpenters plane. In the days when moulding was applied using a handsaw and a wood miter box or block would give you a rough cut nothing like the cuts you get with power miter saws (which have only been on the job since the 60s really. I started as an apprentice carpenter in the 70s. I was always told keep your block plane in your nailbags when fitting miters for baseboard or casing, use your block plane to fit the miter to make it perfect. Today I am still working in the field. All my apprentices are required to carry a blockplane it keeps them form going back a forth to saw 3 or 4 times for the same joint.

[@kallewirsch4187]

As a professional boatbuilder, I use my blockplane all the time. It is always in my everyday carry toolbag, along with a regular benchplane and a mini blockplane. When I use that toolbag, i am usually not at the workbench but somewhere inside the boat. The two blockplanes are great for all the tight spaces you find in a boat and for working while holding the workpiece somehow between the knees. It is much less time consuming to trimm your workpieces right at the spot rather than running back and forth between the boat and the workbench.

[@kyletayloranderson5612]

How did you get in boatbuilding !? Do you have a portfolio of your work ?

[@kallewirsch4187]

@@kyletayloranderson5612 No, I don't have a website or blog or anything like that. I live in Germany. Here we have schools for all kinds of trade. You apply for an apprenticeship at a boatyard and work there for three and a half years. They send you to school three times a year for four weeks. After that you are a fully qualified craftsman. Now it's possible to go to school again for one year and become a master craftsman, wich is quite pricey though. As a master craftsman you can start your own company. I am in the business for 10 years now and looking forward to start masterschool this summer.

[@lemagreengreen]

I like the 9 1/2 but yeah, it's pretty much just a tool for bevelling with one hand. I have planed a little end grain in tight locations with it too, the slightly lower angle does help. It's definitely not an essential plane though.

[@d.newsome6344]

I use one of my 7 or 8 block planes on a daily basis. Love a simple Millers Falls without fancy depth adjusters. Just a tap now and again for adjustment. I don't use the low angle ones that much. They are great for end grain, but tend to snag otherwise. I do a lot of smaller finicky work. I use them to level off miters and chamfer and thin down a spline, etc. Mr. Sellers apparently doesn't like them much. To each his own.

[@billqqq]

This just goes to show that we all have our own ways of doing things. I use a block plane frequently, because I find myself in a situation where it works well for me, and I have a choice. Its not right or wrong, it just works. A 4 or 5 would also work, but the little block plane is easy, and works well, so why not? I can understand it you are just starting out, what to include in your kit, but when you've been at it for about a hundred years and have about a thousand planes... you have a bit more depth of what to use for each situation.

[@savasavchenko7248]

you're so TRUE, Paul.

[@johnnichols8553]

Well that's a bummer, as the only two planes I inherited out of my grandpa's old shop are two block planes. One is a very old Craftsman, and the another is a 1947 P&C brand. I still plan on sharpening them up and maintaining them.

[@tom0428]

Block plane is must for shingles or siding. It’s small, light weight. Easier for climbing up a ladder or scaffold, but not so much in a shop area, where you have work bench and vice.

[@karl_alan]

Block planes are one area where quality really does matter. I actually use mine for chamfering mostly, but my original cheap block plane was night & day different from the upgrade I got years later.

[@Canalcoholic]

I bought a crappy little block plane with a decent iron from a second-hand shop, and then came across a sweet little wooden plane which didn’t have an iron. Total cost, five quid, and it’s a lovely tool.

[@elischultes6587]

Block plane was required tool for my carpentry apprenticeship. I made do with it shaving down a door blank to fit in an odd opening

[@bighands69]

That can all be achieved with a bench plane. He is talking about essential meaning if it was the only plane you had. Or what is needed for people to be able to do woodworking.

[@pnwgentleman]

I like my block plane, and use it quite a bit for edges and such. But I agree with Paul that the #4 (or my #3, or even my #1) can do almost everything it can do. The only reason I use it so much is cause it is handy on the bench. I think I saw a video, maybe Lie Nielsen, on keeping the block plane in your apron. That is the key benefit to me, if you keep it there. The smaller size makes it super handy. Paul doesn't work that way, so his comments make total sense. The block plane is about the 4th plane I would buy (#4, #5 or #6, #7...)

[@douglasbrown3493]

I have used my low angle block plane to fit thousands of feet of red cedar shingles siding houses. However, I only use it for champers in the shop.

[@Cahoula]

I would love to see Paul and all of the good wood workers out there to check Scoutcrafters tool tote challenge here on youtube. It's going to be a lot of fun to see all the submissions due in about 3 weeks - Feb 15, 2021 I think is the final day. John's Scoutcrafter channel concentrates on tool restorations but he is a jaw dropping wood worker and is going to dazzle the viewers. I have been working on my tool tote for several days now. These projects like wood working and tool restorations help us make quality use of our time during the Covid restrictions.

[@123reivax123]

For me... A block plane is a beautifully precise tool.

[@ettowoodworking]

I use a block plane all the time because I make small boxes. But I would have bought a rabbet block plane instead if I could go back in time. The regular block plane, as you said Paul, is pretty limited.

[@MrKenhaigh]

Wasn't the original idea behind the lower blade angle to help when using it on end grain? I used a block on Iroko when building bespoke conservatories, and found it better as there was less tendency to try to pull the strands out.

[@AlexG-jn1iw]

I think you're right. I Also think the video overlooked the ability to sharpen a lower angle bevel onto the block plane blade since it is bevel up. He mentioned the blade was bedded at 12 degrees and sharpened with a 30 degree bevel (30+12=42) which is close to a standard bench plane, but you could sharpen the blade at 25 degrees or lower (12+25=37) which is definitely low angle territory

[@wm6204]

Hi Paul, this is the first time I've disagreed with you. When ever I'm getting my tools together my block plane is a must, for tickling mitre's or scribing ply or hardboard to a wall it's great ! Especially if I'm going to work on a london bus to a site with no decent lock up. I fell in love with the low angled version after falling out with the standard block plane for those very jobs. I find it less cumbersome than the larger planes. Horse's for courses ! Atb 👍

[@bighands69]

You can do everything you mentioned with a bench plane. You cannot use a block plane for making work true or for roughing work. You can use a bench plane for all of that. The key phrase is essential. I own several block planes and love them but they are not essential.

[@wm6204]

Hi Bighand, i get your point & it's valid, but, I work in joiner shops & building sites, 2 very diffetent environments. I always take both along, the heavy smooter & low block, as alot of work doesn't call for to be straight & true I'm afraid thats the real world, walls seldom flat, floors not level, frames out of square, it the real world, & fatigue can play a part as well. The block plane is handy & suits me. But I wouldn't take one plane without the other. Thats my preference.

[@keats182]

The beautiful thing about woodworking is that everyone is different and not locked into one set thing. We can have different projects and different workflow or spatial limitations. Look at the works of the masters 200 years ago and look at their tools.

[@P010010010100101]

Since I'm a hybrid woodworker, I find myself using my block plane (and mini block plane) just as often as my #4 and possibly more.

[@allenwc]

My 2 cents. When I was doing finish work in houses, the block plane (apron plane) came in pretty handy for quick touch ups here and there. But a good solid long screw driver can round over an edge better than a block plane anyway. I've never used a block plane at my workbench. So ya, pretty darn limited utility. They are cute though.

[@sbooder]

That has set the cat amongst the pigions. I use a block plane but it is specialised as I am a luthier and it comes in handy before using a scraper on rosettes, and other little tight space jobs. But I never use one in my general woodworking.

[@bighands69]

At first I thought you meant you were a lutheran and had to read that again and my brain in between that was thinking is there some sect of Lutheran that uses tools in their spiritual journey before realizing that I was being stupid. Block planes are handy for small work and they fit perfectly into the hand for single handed use.

[@sbooder]

Just so there is no more confusion, I am an atheist guitar maker. But you made my wife laugh at the thought of me being a lutheran!

[@G-PA-2795]

Great video topic Paul. A lot of mixed feelings about block planes. Thanks

[@anthonyboudreaux3675]

Curious what plane do you use the most. Paul is the #4 obviously. For me I use them all 4 for smoothing 5 1/2 shooting board 6 for stock removal, but I use #8 by far the most for jointing.

[@danmiller9868]

I love my block plane and use it all the time.

[@bigkiv47]

I have the Henry Eckert no 65 block plane.... great as a small smoother and I use it always on boxes.... SO it really boils down to personal preference like in all things woodworking... I use nothing but low angle planes just because of the quick mouth adjustments and simplicity in setting up... my poor veritas 5 1/4 barely gets used nowadays and sits there as an ornament in most jobs...

[@BradPow]

I noticed mine is just a dust collector. I do see a need for a woodworker that wears a tool pouch though. It's wearable in that instance