You don't need a block-plane (believe it or not!)

[@Frygonz]

This gets put in my recommended RIGHT after I buy a block plane for the first time.

It's called "algorithms".

[@matthewhardesty6872]

lol I was searching for block planes when it popped up!

[@daryletoney8118]

Antique furniture of 40 years, block plane is an essential piece of kit, sharpness is key ie: mirror finish (finished on a slate stone) and so sharp you can wet your forearm and shave hairs off, this done it will slip through end grain like butter, try leveling a protruding tennon joint with a smoothing plane without biting into the surrounding area. Personally my block plane is an extension of my arm. Daryle UK.

[@PeteLewisWoodwork]

Hi Rex, I'm a UK Carpenter and you're exactly right - I have exclusively used the same basic, standard Stanley block plane for 40+ years because it fits in my pouch, is easy in the hand, always convenient, easy to adjust and I have no need to carry a collection of heavier Bench Planes to jobsites (where such tools frequently go missing). I've used the block plane for both ultra-fine trimming and hogging off loads of stock over the years because I found a sweet spot in the setup that allows for both. It is only now, as I am returning to home workshop projects nearing the end of my career, that I am buying Bench Planes (again). I can honestly say that for over 40 years, the humble block plane has served me well - I love using it! NOTE: It still has the original iron, which has shrunk due to sharpening but it doesn't need replacement yet. Should you buy and use one? Yes, of course you should...!

[@wavydavy9816]

I am a decorator who occasionally has to masquerade as a carpenter in order to be able to paint the things that need painting (windows and such). The amount of times I need a plane are few and far between and I've never bothered to buy one because they seem huge and unwieldy. But your praise of the block plane has encouraged me to seek one out immediately so that it's there when I next need it 🤔👍🤗

[@bradmiller9993]

Spot on. As a retired carpenter/remodeler I kept a block plane in my tool belt. Now, as a woodworker/hobbiest in my shop, I can appreciate having a much bigger tool available when needed.

[@ellflynn]

Took the words right out of my mouth!

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Rex, I had a low angle block plane for 30+ years and whenever I tried to use it gave up. It simply didn’t plane wood no matter how hard I tried. Recently, I have had to learn how to properly condition planes and sharpen the blades. It cuts beautifully and with a fresh high polish is a joy to use. I use it proportionate to its size - for small jobs like putting bevels on the ends of a piece or to chamfer the sharp edges of wood one will regularly handle. I wouldn’t use it in a shooting board because there is simply not enough meat to get a good hold for this job. For that, I use a low angle jack plane. One surprise discovery is having properly adjusted a wooden block plane and given its blade a proper sharpen, does a magnificent job in first dressing of rough wood. I did a length of Jarrah, a medium density wood from Australia. The surface finish is a beautiful smooth and level finish, quite remarkable. The beauty of the large block planes is that unlike their metal equivalents, they are quite light and easy to push across your work. You don’t get puffed like you do with a Nº 5 or Nº 6 steel plane. Once you take the time to learn how to adjust them, their entirely manual adjustment system is not a major drawback. Happy carpentry.

[@HBSuccess]

You are absolutely correct. Block planes are s trim carpenter’s tool NOT a furniture maker’s tool. Block planes fit in your nail bags and do quick one-handed chamfering fitting and trimming when you’re trimming out a house or hanging cabinets. It would be my first grab in those situations but my last grab if a vice was available.

[@RexKrueger]

Well, there you go!

[@magicdaveable]

When I was working as a floor mechanic I saw lots of finish carpenters carrying a block plane in the pockets of their bibs. They used them often when adjusting trim bevels. In a shop environment i can't envision needing a block plane. Great video Rex. My advice is that if you are planning on building a house start to finish then you might need a block plane. I carried one when doing hardwood floors but haven't used it since the late 1980's when I quit installing oak floors.

[@kevinchamberlain7928]

Can I have it please?

[@allenwc]

I'd have agree with you. Block planes are painful, but, a block plane fits in my apron or tool pouch, so I have one :D, otherwise, I would not bother with it, I'd use the bench plane. Yup, as a carpenter, doing door setting, trim work, the block plane wins, it's also only $25, and if someone takes it or I misplace it, I can't cry too hard. You are 100% spot on.

[@akirak1871]

The first plane I got was a vintage Stanley block plane on eBay for about 20 bucks. I used it for every planing job I did in the shop (which admittedly was working with stock that was already mostly dimensioned) but it handled it all like a boss. My new jack plane is much easier, but I still keep the block plane right there on the bench for small-scale planing.

[@theeddorian]

What they're handy for is making small boxes. For cleaning edges of thin boards (1/2 inch or less). It can also be useful in finish carpentry for doing things like rounding over an edge of a trim strip - I've got over 60 feet of hand rounded-over trim in the living room and all done with a block plane. Fitting drawers as you pointed out is also a job where a block plane is handy. The individual strips were up to ten feet long. I stumbled into woodworking because my wife had a bunch of jobs around the house that involved finish carpentry jobs and I found the block plane much easier to use when you're sitting on the trim on a saw horse rounding over an edge and blending it into previously worked edges.

[@gnusndn6089]

I'm a retired Carpenter from the 70s. I used my Stanley 60 and a half block plane for scribing wood to the wall many many times. I even used it a lot to fit plastic laminate tightly. I still like to use it in my shop. Keeping it sharp is the key.

[@samchamberlain7525]

My old man told me when he worked at an oil rig on land, alot off windows they fitted were aluminium framed, and my dad witnessed a guy using a block plane to shape the aluminium. Crazy

[@mikestewart505]

I used a Stanley 12-960. It probably isn't so useful for woodworking, but when you're used to having one, it's just hard to imagine not having one. I now have a Lie-Nielsen rabbet block plane, too. I thought it would be a better block plane + the rabbet function for things like tenon cheeks. So-o-o-o, for tenon cheeks, a router planes is hard to beat. For the odd jobs a block plane does, I still grab my cheap old Stanley. Works fine on aluminum, by the way.

[@audigex]

As you note, the block plane is portable and convenient, great for little cleanup jobs. I also just find it nice to use, personally - I like the one handed use, and the simplicity. More importantly, it just feels nice to use. A bench plane is just big and heavy - great if you work mostly in a woodshop, but I don't.

[@gareths100]

You need every plane, all planes .... He who dies with the most planes wins 😀

[@RexKrueger]

Well kill me now. I win.

[@oliverdelica2289]

Rex Krueger no don't. We still have a lot to learn and we still need you

[@triune_blades]

Haha

[@DataStorm1]

There are plenty of planes on the airports right now.

[@dreyn7780]

Says those people of the USA but that doesn’t apply outside the USA. I feel sorry for those people who have to compete all their short lives.

[@CandidZulu]

To confuse things further: The German name for Block Planes is Hirnholzhobel, which means end grain plane. But the Swedish name for them is Stödhyvel, where Stöt means to push, and is the equivalent word to "shooting" in this instance. If we prod a little further we can notice that the Swedish name for a Shooting Board is "Stötlåda", which basically means Shooting Box. So I guess (not an expert) the block plane was at one time considered a tool for end grain work on a shooting board. And as Rex has shown in later videos. The shooting board was originally used for long grain work.

[@kdouglaslee]

I really thought that I would be completely disagreeing with you, but I think you hit the nail on the head. I didn’t get A low angle block plane for several years after I got serious about woodworking, and although I use mine all the time, it’s exactly for the purpose that you mentioned- trimming or rounding over edges, usually with a piece I’m holding in my left hand while I use the block plane in my right. Although I do disagree with you about the number five jack plane, the low angle Jack plane completely replaces it and does a much better job in my mind. But yeah, a No. 4 smoother covers the vast majority of my face planing needs.

[@RexKrueger]

At some point, I'm going to have to get a low-angle jack and put it up against my standard jack. I know they work, but I'm skeptical that they "replace" the standard jack. Only one way to find out...

[@ILoveAnchovies334]

they are for carpenters, specifically trim carpenters. i keep a block plane in my tool belt and use it at least a dozen times a day plus i use it mostly for face or edge grain trimming. beautiful tool

[@johnwhitley2898]

Lol! My block plane is in the cabinet. It comes out on final fit/assembly for any furniture I build. Like twice a year...lol! When I was 16-17 the school district re-did the old counter in the AdminsOffice. Really. Our H.S. was a NHR building, then, 44 years ago. We all knew the senior carpenter at the central shop as he came in for a few hours out in our wood shop classes. He KNEW stuff, lol! We chatted, and he didn't use or carry any block planes in the field (the one was in his tool chest room at the central shop), and he showed me the way to do fine trim/clean up/smoothing with (very old) Greenlee 3/4", 1", 1 1/2", and 2" long detachable handle chisels. To this day I will always appreciate his taking 20 minutes after school and showing me how! I have a handmade leather chisel roll with a similar set, plus a 1/2" chisel. They take a lot of time, it's flat work, no gouge, and it's next to something that already has a prepared surface: marble, granite, custom laminate, metal. Just whip out the sandpaper or block plane there, lol! Doors, drawers, bread boards, etc. yeah, block plane, chisels on the rest! JMHO as well! Great info! Keep it coming!!

[@christophergallagher531]

Some where in my 30th year of carpentry my little Stanley block plane grew legs. It was very small. Not seen another. It's replacement is a Stanley folded up sheet metal thing. Banging around in a pouch it continually lost it's settings. About the only thing it is good for is cedar shake siding or roofing. Bevel siding strained me and it. Out with the skill knief. Now I am restoring a '32 Stanley #4 . I gtabbed it cleaning up ash from my chainsaw mill, just to get it ready for a circular saw. It works, I am hooked! Chris

[@christophergallagher531]

I accepted the little sheet metal plane for what it was and never gave it much attention. It worked in all kinds of weather and for sure paid for it self, then some. If we are allowed to mention power tools the Roybi 3 5/8" unit did a lot of work. Yesterday the little Stankey metal plane got TLC. Flattening the bottom tore through the plating. The blade keeper got shaped like a chipper. The blade was far from flat, but the steel is good. Too bad I did not know all this 50 years ago. This little thing actually works! Thanks Chris

[@FearsomeWarrior]

I understand your video and agree. Personally use my block plane for the control I have over it. By virtue of being less clunky I feel more connection between plane and wood with a block plane. It also helps that the dark gray patina on my Stanley 62 knuckle block plane is amazing looking. I bought a Veritas fancy skinny one this February and use it on every project. The machining for the adjustable throat and blade adjustments is a threat.

[@Victoria-jo3wr]

I'm glad you brought this up! When I was first gathering my tools, I bought a block plane at an antique store because everybody said it was essential. But after restoring it I kept wondering, "What on Earth do I use this for?" I ended up using my No. 5 for everything, and am ashamed to say the block plane ended up being a paint scraper (it's low quality, don't worry. I didn't ruin an heirloom). I'm really looking forward to the review! Good quality vintage tools are very hard to find in my area, and it's often prohibitively expensive to ship here. I have been keeping my eye out for an inexpensive way to get a good smoothing plane.

[@RexKrueger]

I think by the end of the summer, I will have found one!

[@vincentlavarenne6682]

Rex that was another great video! I agree with everything you say , especially with the fact that bockplanes are typically outperformed by a well tuned regular smoothing plane. And I also agree with the fact that y they are good alternatives for those who have to carry a lot of tools to job sites, and for beginners as well. They are so light, versatile, and , for most of them inexpensive that their choice makes sense; I will add that I use block planes in two more occasions: -At the lumberyard, to check the wood quality ( and sometimes the seller 's quality). -For working on greenwood. The simplest model, without a mouth adjustment, is perfect for shaping chair parts out of greenwood, like sticks or spindles , after roughting them out with the drawknive . I find it outperforms other tools like spokeshaves for that. ( Sorry for my English mistakes) .

[@Swarm509]

I picked up a "seconds" Varitas block plane a few years back for a steal and while it is a lovely tool I really don't use it much. I basically just use for very small pieces of project or to chamfer corners in a very controlled way. Basically anywhere the #4 plane feels too bulky. I did just pick up an old apron plane that I will clean up and sharpen though and I expect it may take the place of the block plane for that role, it just feels so handy being even smaller. I'm glad I have the block plane, it is a lovely tool, but I also wouldn't miss it that much if I didn't have it.

[@Rattenomics]

My first plane was a old Stanley hammer adjustibg block planei got at a yard sale long before I was ever interested in actually doing wood working. I just recently got a smoothing plane. You're videos have been amazing thank you.

[@mavenfeliciano1710]

YES! I do some woodworking, but I'm currently employed doing home remodeling, mainly carpentry. I'm trying to practice my hand plane skills for the job sites when I just need to true up a bit of a edge or end grain. Sometimes I need to cut to fit and it's just a hair too big, or my circ saw cut is slightly crooked. So many times I see videos of people like Norm Abram just make it look so easy. Then again, can't expect much from low end (low budget) planes without the time and effort to tune them properly.

[@TheCaptnHammer]

I just started finer woodworking after doing rough carpentry for a few years. I was just given a 1930’s Stanley Bailey No 4 and a small Stanley block plane from the same era. Both were a family members grandfather’s tools and he built furniture for a living. I can’t wait to get both new irons and put them to work. The block plane iron has been used so much it’s totally out of space and won’t event cut and the no 4 iron is almost used up too. I guess both have seen a lot of projects. I’m sanding and cleaning the no 4 while I watch this. :)

[@fngrusty42]

We used the Stanley low angle block plane all the time, but it is because you could carry it in your tool belt. Easy to fix miter , finish a new hung door touch up a base board, but this wasn't high end work this was getting stores, malls and other places up and running, always a minimum amount of time to finish a maximum amount of work. You hit it all right. Good job , I have full sets of planes and hand tools hardly touch a block plan any more . But its still in my tool bag.

[@EvanDunville]

My use for block olanes, When Installing things not in the shop as you touched on. Taking off the sharp edges of board at the jointer or planer or off the table saw so I don't cut myself on them. Sometimes smoothing small areas when the bed legenth and width of a smoother won't fit in. I also like as you said a really small block plane often called an apron plane. They aren't adjustable mouth bit their small size makes them really easy to be on hand.

[@MichaelEdelman1954]

Possibly the most useful and most used tools in my toolbox, whether for carpentry or cabinetmaking. I have the little Lie-Nielsen bronze block plane, which is a jewel.

[@LittleGreyWolfForge]

I have my grandpas hand forged one from 1869, it’s still goin REALLY strong. I love it soooooo much

[@matthewmarello1347]

I just bought my first block plane. I'm primarily power tool so it's really only for breaking edges or some end grain so I believe it's a helpful tool.

[@buddybigdaddy8990]

Correct are you! I've been a carpenter since 1970 .A toy model builder since mid 50s b 1952 .The block plane,r anything is up graded by You. The metal is the foundation,no matter its malleable efficiency ,inefficiency. You can change,carve,and shape the handles.Owning multiple planes with different shape handles gives leverage most suited to particular jobs. Just leave yourself a note for its use, because you Will forget.

[@unopine]

Rex, I truly enjoy both your approach and your videos. And you're absolutely correct about planes: for the non-professional woodworker to get a decent quality plane, a significant investment in time or effort is necessary. In my search on Amazon for a quality plane I could actually afford, I came across Taytools (Taylor Toolworks). They sell all kinds of woodworking supplies, on Amazon, and thru their own website, including planes. I took a chance on a #4 smoother, for $79, and am very happy with it. Nothing else I found approached their quality at this price point.

[@RexKrueger]

I may have to suck it up and buy one of these. I'm really curious.

[@johnprivate6625]

A block plane was my first plane. Purchased only because it was the only plane I could afford at $12. Only last week, I finally upgraded to a Stanley Bailey no.5 salvaged from a scrap metal dealer for $10 and refurbished. Thanks Rex for the advice on how to do the refurbishment.

[@red58impala]

Awesome stuff Rex. I agree we don't really need a block plane for most jobs. That said I actually pulled out my old Stanley 9 1/2 because I needed to break the aris off the edge of some shelves. I wanted to be able to control the mouth opening and since I didn't have a vice a plane that I could use one-handed. Keep up the good work!

[@RexKrueger]

And that's a good use for it!

[@bertkutoob]

I wonder how many people these days know what an 'aris' is? Believe me, 'taking the aris off' with a well fettled and sharpened block plane is just about the most satisfying thing you can do with your clothes on... And as for removing paint from window frames? Try doing THAT with a bench plane, hanging on for dear life with one hand, 8 ft up a wonky ladder...! Leave my block plane alone. It has been a great friend in need. Indeed!

[@jesseshaw2569]

Interesting theory of Block Planes coming from carpenters, every carpenter I've known has one. However, so do all the Fine Furniture makers. The reason block planes are essential is because of their versatility, yes they can plane a large surface of end grain but they're mainly for working on small surfaces, for example, leveling the bottom of a tapered table leg. You would not be able to shave the end grain of a 3/4" piece of maple with a #3 Box Plane, but you would be able to with a Block Plane. Anyway, nice video!

[@DariointheWorkshop]

I agree with you Rex. I find a no4 plane much easier to handle and the weight helps it to plow through the wood. I use my block plane almost only for chamfers, and even so I miss the chipbreaker a lot

[@MrGalpino]

I just bought a Trojan block plane for 13 dollars. The old guy next to me in the shop said it was a good brand. I've tried to sharpen it up and it seems to be working. It's my first plane.

[@cpzmelbs]

Found the aussie. Howd the Trojan hold up? I want a plane but just cant afford it responsibly.. have you seen the starting price of anything Stanley ? Sheesh 2nd hand is almost worst

[@gregd.88]

This is a personal choice. I have found uses for a block plane on nearly every job for 40 years!!!

[@tomjkelleher]

I often use block planes for small areas. It's also easy to clamp in the vise upside down, if I'm working with a small piece of wood. I have an older Great Neck bench plane that I really like. It was my first plane. I got it on eBay for $20 (shipping included). But, I invested a lot of "sweat equity" to make it usable. It needed a lot of sanding to flatten the sole and the frog. Also had to file the mouth so it was actually square. As a hobby woodworker I understand that I may need to put in the effort of finishing the tool, rather than paying someone at Veritas to do it for me.

[@RexKrueger]

Well said!

[@NeverTalkToCops1]

Oh, so your $20 tool competes with Veritas? Why don't you use all your "sweat equity" and have a go of buying junk $20 planes, putting hours of labor into them, and sell them for $24.95 ? That's almost $5.00 gross profit per plane, and after doing 40 of these in one day, you will have a stunning haul of $200. I've heard of jack planes, but these commenters all over the web with their inane, silly ANECDOTES seem like Jack Somethings. Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha . Now, tell us about your $2.75 sharpening gear that does 16000 grit. Ha Ha Ha Ha .

[@elim7228]

​@@NeverTalkToCops1there's a proverb: a stingy person pays double the price. In this case, in hours of life spent while still ending up with an inferior tool.

[@andyreynolds145]

For this furniture maker, the block plane has an inverse goldilocks problem. Too big to be small, too small to be big. For one-handed trimming I use a smaller, nimbler, cheaper apron plane. For almost everything else I use a bevel-up jack, which is so versatile that I would recommend it over a smoother.

[@lukeklue]

My newer Stanley low angle jack plane worked great for end grain after I tweeked some things. The extra mass really helps. I hear people have issues with them, and I understand why(machining issues), but they aren't hard to tune into working order. My block planes are good for beveling and trimming epoxy. So is my no. 3 bench plane though.

[@RexKrueger]

I really like my 3 for end grain.

[@joeleonetti8976]

I'm coming up on 4 years of woodworking with hand tools. I don't have one and don't feel a need to get one. I do have a No 3 I use a fair bit. When I sharpen it via Paul Sellers method, I don't have any issues getting shavings from end grain. Not knocking those that own a block plane but I wouldn't be in a rush to get one.

[@LaraCroftCP]

I actually only own one because i found him for no money in a secound Hand shop. He missed the adjustment wheel but i made a knurled brass knob for it. I actually only use it for trimming doors and some times for chamfering.

[@philclennell]

The Stanley 9 1/2 was the first plane I bought 40 years ago and it got me into hobby woodworking. Easy to use, the iron, sharpened at 30 degrees, is sharper than the low angle variety at 38 degrees. It cant be beaten for smoothing localised areas of difficult grain or knocking back sharp edges - way better than sandpaper. I'd certainly miss it if I didn't have it. If only the BU planes had a 20 degree bed, they would work much better.

[@ureasmith3049]

I agree. My only block plane is a fancy Lie Neilsen low angle block plane. Nice tool, well made, takes nice shaving but I rarely reach for it. I usually reach for a #4 for chamfering edges or working on endgrain. My #4 is a craftsman brand that I got for 20 bucks at antique shop. Not a collector plane, but my favorite.

[@trueitbycjtruitt9546]

I just bought you ebook off Amazon, it took me a bit but I finally did and boy wish I had it before getting into starting my lathe hobby started, but I'm glad I bought this ebook for all the great information in it ,thank you for taking the time to make it . -CJ

[@RexKrueger]

It's totally my pleasure! If you get a chance to leave a review, that really helps with the Amazon rankings.

[@trueitbycjtruitt9546]

@@RexKrueger I most certainly did 😊

[@sejoki1]

I got myself a combination block/shoulder plane. It’s quite a versatile tool and like you said, it’s mostly for small adjustments where you either have to work on an already assembled piece of furniture or just don’t have a vise to hold it. Using a bench plane with one hand is nearly impossible. For job site work it is essential though to be able to hold it with one hand and plane with the other. A cheap alternative might be a little wooden Japanese plane, though they’re sometimes more expensive than a regular block plane and like the saw, made for a pulling motion, which takes some getting used to. The problem with mid-range solutions in my opinion is that you never want them. Take the bench plane. If you can’t afford the 200$ Lie Nielsen, but don’t want the cheapo 37$ Amazon plane either and you buy something in the $100 price range, you’re kind of stuck with it. Because if you want the Lie Nielsen later, you already spent 100 bucks on a plane, so the total amount of money you spent to get the plane you really wanted is now 300, which just makes it unreasonably expensive. If you just spent $37 on a transitional plane it’s going to hurt much less. That’s kind of my approach. Either buy a cheap tool that barely does the job, or don’t buy a tool at all and save up for the one you really want.

[@jayballauer8353]

By that argument, there's not a single tool that you actual NEED because there's always more than one way to do anything and everything. But there are some tools that are quite indispensible, particularly when you've worked with them long enough. The table saw is obvious in that regard for most people. For me, my Lie-Neilsen rabbet block plane is my most well-rounded, fast, and efficient tool for many tasks on almost any project I work on. It's also much more comfortable and manageable than a smoother for the tasks on which I use a block plane. The best advice when it comes to buying tools is to "buy them as you need them." This is the way "tool collections" are made. Outside of that, if you think you want to try a block plane, then get a cheap one. If you like it, then buy a better one. But I hope people don't decide against a block plane based on this video...a lot of people would miss out on the pleasure of using a nice tool.

[@RexKrueger]

I don't know about that. I'm pretty sure every woodworker needs saws. I don't think there's any way around that tool.

[@emm_arr]

"Lie-Neilsen rabbet block plane" I looked into that and the Veritas low angle block plane long and hard. I got the Veritas. You are so right on the "the pleasure of using a nice tool" bit. Lovely. And perfect for so many things. I don't need it - but it has made quite a few jobs easier. Easing corners for one.

[@jayballauer8353]

@@RexKrueger Everybody needs saws, but not everybody needs a table saw. There's truly nothing the table saw does that cannot be replicated by a combination of a circular saw and a router. I know several people who find a circular (track) saw all they need for traditional "table saw cuts." Certainly, it makes sense to HAVE a good table saw and it's definitely the center of my workshop, but there are some woodworkers that center their shops around a bandsaw, among others. Thus, the notion of "indispensible tools" in woodworking should be rethought in the modern age. I think we too quickly forget how many awesome woodcrafts were made without electricity. Today, we generally don't make things better...just faster...and even that last point is arguable. That block plane I mentioned saves me more time on so many tasks on any given project that sometimes I wonder why I own so many sanders. ;)

[@RexKrueger]

Okay, I just said "saws". You said table saw, not me. You really do NEED some kind of saw. I feel pretty confident about that.

[@bobleclair5665]

The little guy fits well in your pouch and is quieter than the electric tools,I wouldn’t be without one

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Another good video and observation Rex IMO the most important tool a Woodworker needs is a router with a good assortment od bits a router and a sraight edge can surface just about any edge i use mine as a jointer, Lamello cutter , surface planer, and of course a profiler all the time hand planes are awesome tools but not necessarily the most needed in a workshop another big issue that affects the hand plane is that it takes a certain amount of skill to tune and operate one in order to get. Good results in comparison to a router all you need to know is how to build the correct jig and the machine and bit does all the work for you And with modern technology you can find many great tutorials on KZbin. Or the Internet. In general to guide you through what ever task you may need to accomplish like joinery Or whatever it may be

[@RexKrueger]

I like my router, but I could get by without it.

[@saigmundur]

I totally agree that a block plane is for carpentry. Fits in a small tool box and in a pocket. It is great for knocking dovn edges or trimming drawers as you said. Even in a modern setting it is valuable. I have one and I wouldn't live without it, even though I don't use it too often.

[@JerrySmith-ih9rd]

Sorry but I’ve been a carpenter for a little over 40 years, been trimming most of that time and you darned well better have a block plane. My favorite is the little LN apron plane. I have several and they are absolutely essential. There are two block planes and a shoulder plane in my tool bucket. I have transferred the use of these over to woodworking as well.

[@whatthefuckeidos9230]

You missed out the last part where he said the exact same thing

[@vkess1]

I like how you challenge common conceptions, then back up your words with a demo. I use my block plane to flush trim screw plugs and not much else because as you pointed out, it lacks the mass of a smoothing plane. It works trimming plugs better than flush saws and is easier to use for this purpose than a larger plane would. That’s about it though.

[@Angelfacesongs]

I just received 2 block planes and a #4 and a #5 from my uncle, the thing that I like about the low angle plane is that it's great practice for refurbish before I go onto my larger planes. Also block planes are also super cute and that's important :)

[@Great.Milenko]

i've done fine joinery for nearly 20 years and never really NEEDED a block plane, they're "handy" because they're..... well..... better fit in the hand so theyre good in a tight spot. theyre good on site, when fitting things like stairs or kitchens. but tbh a good sharp regular old bench plane is the only plane you would ever REALLY need. a jointing plane too for prep maybe, but again, for finishing, shaping and sizing, a bench plane is the only plane you would ever need for none specialist work. although ..... obviously , we could get into rabbet planes, hand routers, edge planes, chamfer planes, profiling planes with a dozen different irons, plough planes, ect ect ect. and these are all useful of course, but if i personally could only own a single nonstandard plane it would be an edge to edge bench plane or No10 rebate plane, which is effectively your normal bench plane but the iron reaches both sides allowing you to use it against a stop and cut rebates. although its perfectly usable for regular smoothing.

[@Vincent-S]

Ha, a block plane is my one plane I never think I need until I hurt myself on a sharp corner and then trudge back to the garage to get the standard angle Handyman I found in a forgotten corner of my uncle's house years ago. I've been meaning to upgrade from it, but I'm just so used to it. Plus it was great to use when I was working on my workbench and was doing everything on the ground, Japanese style with no vises, but with western planes instead. It's also actually pretty useable when used like a kanna plane with how round it is. Man, that Handyman might never get replaced.

[@benm5913]

I'm lucky in that I love in an area with vintage bench planes available at estate sales. Not a lot, and not usually larger than a #5, but, still lucky. I have acquired 13 so far at very affordable prices. Just wanted to say thanks since you were the one to inspire me to even look.

[@RexKrueger]

That's where most of mine came from.

[@iratevagabond204]

I use my woodpecker EZEdge for chamfers and roundovers during finishing. I got a block plane, but it chills in my to-go tool box for fixin' stuff.

[@mymemeplex]

I really like the wooden coffin planes I find here a lot, especially the ones with a bit of wood behind the blade on top, fits my hand real nice, and easy to h9ld one handed. They can be found for less than 5 bucks in 2nd hand shops. Good quality blades often, easy to sharpen.

[@RexKrueger]

Love coffin planes.

[@yizhuolin3906]

I found a small block plane super handy for erasing jobs such as erasing pencil marks and dirty sports from wood surface, a few quick strokes and it's done, because it's small it can remove very little but just right amount of wood to erase the spot, much quicker and safer than a bigger plane. In Chinese woodworking there's this kind of plane in about the same size as a western block plane, and it's literally called "cleaning plane" or "erasing plane" in Chinese. Basically a wooden block plane with a horizontal handle, super handy little tool for such job.

[@mildyproductive9726]

I have that GreatNeck #4. It works fine to me. The lever had to go over to the right to get the blade square, so I adjusted the frog a bit. The only problem I had was the handle getting loose. The handle is free to twist a bit and the bolt holding the handle on would inevitably loosen over time. I noticed that there's a square cavity in the casting directly underneath the handle that is not utilized. So I added a bump to the bottom of the handle to fit in this cavity. Basically, I cut about a quarter inch from the bottom of the handle with the bandsaw. Flattened and slotted the bottom of the handle so I could glue on a mating extension. Got that back to the original shape except it fits down into that cavity just so. Ne'er another problem.

[@BuildEnvironmentTV]

I tried buying one of those Great Neck planes about 6 weeks ago for $37 shipped and they sent me a plane body with no iron, chip breaker, or cap in a box missing an entire side held together by packing tape. Not wanting to source an entirely replacement assembly I just shipped it back. Kindof a wash. For $3 more I got one of the AmazonBasics #4 planes that came with all its parts and actually functioned for rough work out of the box. If it works decently well you can save a few bucks but some of the sellers definitely whiff it on that plane.

[@louisvictor3473]

That intro. The classic difference between a _need_ and a "it is still convenient/nice/cool/practical/you might like it better to have" thing, and people's even more classic difficulty to understand they're not the same.

[@dreyn7780]

Social people actually spend most of their time ballroom dancing, not playing with tools, trying to Sell to massively thrifty competitive people.

[@alanj822]

Or "there's a damn reason noone in woodworking extolls this idea, and that Rex is a youtube celebrity, not a qualified teacher of woodworking.

[@whatthefuckeidos9230]

@@alanj822 yeah how dare Rex have a different opinion from others, right

[@michaelsaxman]

I just got a rusty pre-WWII 9 1/2 for cheap, and when I cleaned it up I found that it had no signs of use, and the iron had never been sharpened, still had the factory grind. I measured it, came up with 37 degree single bevel grind, 24" diameter perfect circle camber. Seems like what you would want on a jobsite for tough use.

[@djpenton779]

I have changed my mind about this. A while ago I posted a comment on this video and said that I didn't really feel the need for a block plane. Since then I have decided that it really depends on what kind of work you do. I have made several wooden bench planes using David Finck's excellent book. At first I ignored his advice to use a block plane for shaping the wooden plane bodies. Eventually I gave in and bought a top-notch Veritas block plane. The block plane is great for doing the wooden bench planes, and also is very useful for dealing with small parts that I make for musical instruments.

[@przybyla420]

Luthiers like their block planes from what I gather. Makes sense I guess since you don’t really see tiny planes with chip breakers. I think the tiny planes Japanese boxmakers use are bevel up too, I know they are single iron.

[@viktor67990]

Agreed. I prefer my #6 for shooting board. I just have a special blade for this kind of job. Moves smoothly, comfortable to hold and easier to keep parallel to the board, because of its length. Or #3, if 6 is overkill.

[@CT-gm7mm]

block planes are really use full on job sights were space and weight become constraints. its good for doing baseboards and casing where you only need to do a small trim but its not worth it to head back to your saw.

[@kevinchamberlain7928]

I have just sharpened my ancient Stanley block plane on my original re-dressed 33 year old Indian oilstone and put it in my door-shooting box. It gets used daily for arrising and touching up where the electric planer won't do. It essential AND LIGHTHER THAN A 3 OR 4.

[@mariom8097]

Notice that skewing the bench plane you have a less resistance because you are lowering the angle. For trimming stock better a lowangleblockplane, and much less resistance if adding Skewing. No Doubt the best option for 1 hand and apron fit work.

[@soberlivingwithbrianfrankl8254]

Paul seller touched on this also. He agreed in so many words. Said the number 4 was the all around plane you "need"

[@RexKrueger]

I'm very influenced by Paul. This video is my attempt to expand and flesh out many things he's said.

[@wulfocrow5549]

Yeah the 4 is the best, but I got a block for small pieces and touching corners. I can do that with the 4 of course, I just prefer the size.

[@djpenton779]

Paul Sellers works mostly with wood that is already milled up flat and square. I buy rough lumber. Although I have hobbyist grade planer and jointer I use my jack and jointer planes often.

[@soberlivingwithbrianfrankl8254]

Just cause you dont see paul square it up with hand tools, dont mean he dont. He is a well known hand tool word worker. Go back and watch some of his older videos. He has some that explaining how to square up stock

[@oliverdelica2289]

Rex Krueger dang Paul Sellers seems to be the original plane fanatic. I recently started to tune in more to his videos

[@AaronSprague1]

I agree with everything you said except switch #4 to #5. I love my #5. I own 2 blocks, #8, #3, #4 and a #5. By far my #5 gets more use thank any other tool.

[@RexKrueger]

I like the 5 almost as much. It's really just personal preference.

[@magicdaveable]

When I was working as a finish carpenter/hatdwood floor mechanic I carried several planes in my tool caddy. I also carried a shooting board in my truck just in case. I take issue with your comment about the difference between a master carpenter and a "fine woodworker." There is, in reality, little or no difference between them.

[@RexKrueger]

I don't know about that. I know a lot of carpenters that can't build furniture and I can't do carpentry.

[@Keithmwalton]

Interesting take. I’m a furniture building woodworker who got a job with carpenters building kitchens and baths and there were endless differences in our skills, approach, techniques, tolerances and personal pride. I’ve never heard a fine woodworker be satisfied with a visible gap and say “I won’t be able to see it from my house” 😂

[@EliseVeldt-xc5wl]

Block planes are useful for anything difficult to clamp and you hold in your hands

[@mrgolftennisviolin]

Hey Rex! Thanks for all you do! Your videos have helped me out a lot. I decided to try to build a violin with hand tools, and your videos have been a great resource. Just thought you’d find my situation with block planes interesting - I have one from my grandpa, one from my dad, and another smaller violinmaker’s block plane that was given to me as a gift. I’ve found specific uses for all three! With highly figured maple, I need a steep angle as well as a toothed blade option, and it’s nice to keep all three set up and ready to go. Once I’m done with a couple violins, I want to build some Queen Anne style furniture. Keep up the good work, and thanks again!!

[@MintStiles]

The veritas new style (theDx 60) block planes are about the biggest block plane that still makes sense. Any larger work, you can use a no3 or a no4. I find the block planes in the traditional sizes really awkward to hold with my smaller hands. YMMV.

[@jeffkushen5586]

Thanks for another great video Rex! I don't to a LOT of wood working, but after you did a video on planes, I found a very small one that is great for taking the edges off my knife handles! Shout out to a fellow Clevelander!

[@RexKrueger]

Shout-out to a fellow metal-worker! (I also smith).

[@DBYNOE]

Thought this was click bait, but watched it anyway and was pleasantly surprised. And yes, its their best use is portable work and I think my standard angle block plane's additional mass seemed way easier to use. Great review and all of my good planes came from ebay. Thx

[@RexKrueger]

Thanks! I don't make click-bait videos. If I say something bold, I mean it.

[@DBYNOE]

Krueger which says a lot for the quality of your vids, Thx

[@MarcoACasco]

Excellent !!!! Only use my # 3 and # 6, most of the time.

[@echojardini]

just starting my tool collection and I will say that block planes are cheaper and easier to find. literally bought the same millers falls block plane as rex has here for $15 at a garage sale last weekend (there were also ones for $5 and $10 but I liked the grip on this one-- I have small hands and its easier to hold.)

[@galootlovestools]

One of the most common planes I see at flea markets is a Stanley block plane. I haven’t paid over $10 for any one of them with an adjustable mouth. Once fettled, they are my most used planes.

[@montanawhite5699]

I went to school for carpentry, we were required to bring certain hands tools, like utility knife, speed square, torpedo and 2’ level, saw, gamer etc etc.. the most interesting tool required was a block plane. I use mine mostly for installing doors.

[@kimmonshandtools6849]

Your videos are always great to watch and you’re completely correct in my opinion, I’ve never even owned a block plane and really don’t think I have a need for them. Even if I had one, Id grab a bench plane every time because I have large hands and a number 4 already feels quite nimble and easy to use for most things in my opinion.

[@darkJohnSmith]

Lol, very true. I never use mine, except on a jobsite. I would say that a jackplane is the most versatile, not a smoother. I did everything for years with just a no 5.

[@TheSMEAC]

Good video and true information to be sure. However, my L-N 60-1/2 Rabbeting Block Plane is in my shop apron at all times.

[@738polarbear]

He’s right . You can use a full size number 4. However a block plane is handy for using with small stock.For really small stock I use my Veritas Apron plane . Beautifull little plane . I have 3 block planes and never use them.

[@charlesrussell9312]

I am going to disagree. I love my block planes as I have more control while doing fractional work (less than an inch). They also are essential when I need to make a new fishing pole. :-P Otherwise I use it to help out the neighbors where my #3 plane is overkill. Yes, you can get by without them, but it really depends on the work you do.

[@johnlamb2754]

I've been using my Stanley block plane as a carpenter for fifty years,I'll be using it tomorrow and using it till I no longer can.

[@johnpossum556]

I have my fathers Craftsman 102 and it's the best for tuning and tweaking.

[@triune_blades]

I have a beautiful v logo no.65. It still needs a bit of love but it feels like it was made for my hand and I love the weight.

[@419buckeye7]

They are handy

[@dreyn7780]

I’ve never been using any block plane, low or not. Bench planers superseded them along time ago, so did sanding and files and etc... Tool people are on the edge of society and are actually antisocial and can’t communicate cause they argue and fight all the time.

[@kellyvcraig]

@@dreyn7780 No they aren't. No they don't.

[@andymckenzie8031]

I'm convinced that there are only two real advantages to a block plane: 1) They're less intimidating to sharpen, so they're mostly kept sharper, and 2) They're more maneuverable, so they're great for small things like moulding, which is likely to be where most people first use them. Other than that, I really wouldn't miss them if I stopped using them tomorrow.

[@samchamberlain7525]

I believe the block plane is more appropriate for construction carpentry. It's light and easy to carry in the tool bag, used more on small jobs like taking the arises off doors, plugging Screw holes and little minor detail work on 2nd fix, trimming and finish work. Jack planes better for workshop work. In the old days they where common on roof construction for have long 45's on hip rafters etc

[@edwardleroy7648]

Looking forward to the Great Neck plane review.

[@d.newsome6344]

You should get a Millers Falls #5 or similar Lie Nielsen or Stanley 102. Small and simple. I use them every day. I own a few of those big blocky Stanleys you show in the video, and I hardly ever use them. They are heavy, clunky, and the fancy adjustors are unnecessary.

[@bloodgain]

I've seen a few guys on KZbin knock off corners with their spokeshave, too. Probably still awkward one-handed, but it's smaller than a bench plane and can do other work a block plane can't.

[@RexKrueger]

I feel like the spokeshave doesn't offer the control over depth of cut and you HAVE to use two hands. I don't get that.

[@codymyers3740]

Hi Rex, I appreciate your videos. I have been a wood worker of sorts for about 5 years now, making tables, stools, day bed frames, and other random furniture and stuff. Post-covid lock-down I have gotten far more into woodworking to occupy my time and mind. I am a medically retired army veteran and graduated with a BS in biology this may, which is possibly the worst possible time in history to be entering an extremely specialized career field due to a severe lack of job openings due to current circumstances. I have wanted a plane for quite a while and today I bought a cheap (cringe) one, it's a Kobalt bench plane and my god is it a horrible disaster, it's not even remotely able to become good with some tuning. It's a bummer but I am just going to return it tomorrow and accept that during this period while I am in this awkward unemployed recent graduate during a pandemic phase a quality plane is just flat out not possible for me. I have advanced far enough that it does make sense to have one but it's just not in the cards to have one that is worth having at the moment. Anyway, carry on. Just wanted to warn other growing woodworkers to not buy a bargain bin plane and think it will scream quality. I get it now, all that fine machining and quality materials is why the real ones are so pricey.

[@banjotramp1]

Good video. I was taught that block planes are better for end grain. I'll rethink that. But only on the bench!. Nothing beats a block plane on a job site. Try planing end grain, or anything with a bench plane without a bench.... One hand is the vise and the other the tool.. The moral of the story.. If you want to build furniture, you don't need a block plane. If you are going to to do finish carpentry, you don't need a bench plane. And keep them both sharp.

[@bertkutoob]

My understanding is that the BLOCK plane got its name from its common use to trim the working surface of a butcher's BLOCK , which is all end grain. In such a case, being that the absolute flatness of the surface is not of prime importance, the block plane would be in its element. Using a bench plane would force the butcher into taking off too much wood in trying to get to the low spots and significantly shorten the useful life of the block. Everything has its place.. I'm not a butcher (more of a bodger) but my 30 years old Stanley block plane is simply my favourite tool. Maybe because it's such a dinky little thing...

[@738polarbear]

He’s right . You can use a full size number 4. However a block plane is handy for using with small stock.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

Great video, Rex! Looking forward to the review next week!!!! I like my box planes, where they're useful... BUT my opinion has long been "get the tool that suits the job"... referencing most specifically, "Scale". Big hefty planes are needed for most of the work of a plane. Little clever lightweight planes are nice for little clever lightweight work... more (in my experience) suited to minor parts of the furnishing or an instrument, where lighter stock is chosen to start with, and there's just less material to go around (including to the mistakes monsters). Sure, portability is worth valid mention, but in the end, it's about a quality job getting done. The little slats in the back of a chair might be worth trims and casual repeated fit and reshape with a block plane, simply because you can keep repeating that cycle for a couple hours at a time... or worse (longer?)... or for fitting together a violin or guitar, where it's got to be "tight tight" but you can't afford to break anything either. ;o)

[@manybikesrbest]

Very engaging--kept this pro carpenter/woodworker interested. . . And you made very good points!

[@suzisaintjames]

Looking forward to next week's review. I'm especially interested in if the blade holds it edge. See, I bought a cheap kitchen knife. It had a red handle that fits me well and nice weight. The only problem is that the steel is poor quality and every time I use it, I have to sharpen it. $35 is a great price but I'm hoping that they didn't cut corners on the blade. 💝☀🌵

[@anthonybeers]

use mine as a tiny smoothing plan in small difficult areas. Stanley No 1 and 2 are rare and the handles are really small.

[@robinalexander5772]

For me I have may planes, from 2 inches up to a no.7. Do I need so many yes, why because it is better to have it when the need arises, it may be once a year or longer but I have it, job is done. My thoughts on what I think someone should have is a 4, 41/2, 5, 51/2. Just my thoughts, just a home tinker. My block plane which is an axminster rider plane is heavy and solid and I can hone the blade to scary sharp and it planes smooth as silk. $120 AU. at the end of the day it just comes down to enjoying what you do with what you have. cheers everyone from tassie

[@robinalexander5772]

nasser d , My 41/2, 5, 6, and 7 hand planes are Axminster rider, they work just fine, flat and square and they have some weight to them. I like them a lot. And one of my block plane is a rider as well.

[@kyleb123456]

I went through the "must buy this tool" phase a few years ago. So now i have a dozen or so planes. Awsome right, well over half of them are eather missing the tote or it is broken in half. Would you do a quick video on replacing/repairing handles for vintage stanley planes

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

IN the meantime... (if you're interested) Repairs aren't too difficult, as long as the break hasn't lost anything (or loss is minimal). The hardest part of repairing a tote is getting everything lined up and then keeping it that way, because you pretty much have to rig a clamp-up for it. Personally, I find the greatest mileage out of JB-Weld epoxy, and I avidly avoid any of the "quick" epoxy types, especially for tool repairs. You can get by on them, but they're not as consistently solid and long-lived as regular mix and cure overnight stuff... AND for repairs, that's really about it... sand carefully to clean... OR you can use a BRASS WIRE brush or wheel very gently for those breaks with weird cracks and crevasses. Then wipe with a "nappy" cloth, like terrycloth (bath-towel/wash cloth) to be sure it's clear of dust and debris... Rig your clamp(s)... okay, I usually find it most convenient to start with some plywood and a jig saw... You CAN go with a scroll saw, coping saw, router, whatever suits you (and is available)... BUT the point is to make a cut-out of your tote. Since most totes are about the same size and shape, once you've made it, KEEP IT, and you've always got the thing... Jig-saws are readily available and cheap here-abouts, so I usually just go with that and carefully use an "exemplar" tote for the pattern, careful to keep it pretty tight... I cut out as many replicas in the plywood as it takes to stack up very close to the thickness of my "broken tote"... and then laminate and clamp them together. You can (but don't need to) trim off excesses, and if you're going to rig with string involved, you might want to lay your exemplar tote into the cut-out to finish the "physical engineering"... Which is a clever way of saying, repeatedly tie down and adjust strings or cords or wires (whatever you've got) around tote and cutout while you make notches and adjustments for a consistent fit... This template will be able to restore any tote after you're done, so dutiful care to make it comfortable and convenient for YOU is important... When you're happy with it, move on to fixing your broken tote... To actually fix... mix the epoxy by the instructions and "schmuntz" the stuff into cracks and crevasses of the broken area so you have plenty... consistent "squeeze out" is optimal over "lots of squeeze out"... so when you press this thing together into your cutout form, any bead of ooze means "you've applied enough". Apply and tie, clamp, fit, whatever else to make a stable well aligned product... and then leave it. Once cured (usually overnight is good)... You're still going to want to match a drill-bit to the inner channel, where the bolt goes to hold it down. You're free to attempt to skip this, and I have managed from time to time in the past, BUT the usual ooze of epoxy gets into it and tends to become a mild nuisance... a drill and half a minute worth of gentle coaxing through the thing beats driving yourself ape-sh*t trying to fight a thick, square-ended bolt through a little glob of goop. A brief sanding or scraping to get rid of uncomfortable bits of epoxy is all that's really required. It's a tool (after all) not a show-piece... until you find a new tote to replace it... SO bolt it back in place, and get back to work... Making a new one??? I'd recommend hickory, oak, or any of your "tool handle" options... You should be sure that the wood is DRY and STABLE, before you start, but there's no real mystique about it... I usually (again) just draw a guide from another "complete enough" tote the best I can, and go after it with a jig-saw... MAKING SURE... to cut the handle a bit LARGER than the original, so stick just outside the lines "comfortably" and consistently... Here, however, the "hard part" is getting that bolt hole aligned... and it's just my opinion, but as long as we're doing this thing ourselves... why bother absolutely following the company standard??? SO this is why I suggest cutting it larger... a bit thicker and a bit wider than the original, just gives you a bit of "breathing space" because you're not a factory owner with a $10K robot fitting handles and bolts all day. Like me, you're a guy (or gal) in a shop, trying to get the damn plane to work... That said, Centerline is important, so (I usually work from the top down), along the top you'll want to draw that out so it's visible while you drill. Next, you'll want to go back to your "exemplar" tote, and use it to line up the angle (as close as possible) for the bolt to travel through the new one... When I do this, I usually lay the new tote on the table, the old tote on the new one, and keeping them both aligned, carefully scratch a line directly from the old bolt-holes down to the new tote's approximate spots for it... THEN you can square everything up, and make a line from the "exit point" in the bottom of the new tote, to the "entry point" at the top, giving you the approximately deadly accurate angle of attack. When you clamp this thing in the vice to start drilling, you can use a torpedo level (my favorite for the job) or even any accurate square you have (provided your table and vice is "proper level") to put the "drilling angle" as close to dead-vertical as you can get it. Provided you can drill a straight and vertical line (and there are a few tricks to accomplish that)... push a scratch awl or sharpened nail into the entry-point exactly... to avoid "walking" the drill around. AND you're good to go. Trick... (my go to for "dead vertical")... I actually have a torpedo level, it's a short combination level so I can find short lengths of vertical and horizontal as well as 45's... about six inches long. You CAN get by with a reasonably accurate square, as long as you have a precise "dead horizontal" surface to reference from... I mount the drill bit first.Then using the torpedo level in one hand, I align the bit with vertical, and drill deep into a piece of "stock"... shut-down the drill as shortly as possible, and leave it in the hole. A large piece of stock is helpful, in case I screw it up the first time or two (or I'm just not happy with the finish)... Next, I get some duck-tape or black-tape (but even masking tape will work in a pinch, as long as it's not painter's blue)... and I find a reasonably effective place to tape the level to my drill... I want to SEE the bubble reference, so I can keep my eye on something and be relatively confident in my work... AND I want to AVOID covering the vents for cooling the motor (those places where air comes out when the drill runs... yeah... don't cover those. It's bad...) If you have two levels, you can even go as far as covering two axes... BUT I prefer (actually) only using one, so I'm not darting my eyes all over the place and jostling around... Instead, I prefer to drill in very short "bursts" and keep the rpm's under control (SLOWER than I'd like)... As the drill sinks into the work, I step around about 90 degrees off from my original position and check the bubble for about a burst, and then back for about a burst and so forth... Drill slow and don't forget to withdraw from time to time (about every quarter inch or six millimeters) to clear the bit. Take your time, and this should get you on the way. Once the hole is drilled, you can go about cleaning up, trimming down excess, and sanding and what-not... If you're extra ambitious, you can get a larger bit and just chew into the top of the hole for a recess like the pro's make... but that thing doesn't really DO anything but look "pretty". Finally, I do recommend some low or medium grade "thread locker"... You don't need the high-grade expensive stuff, because the big thing this stuff is good for is keeping the bolt threads CLEAN, so you can take it down later in case you find a "better" tote or decide you want to make "adjustments"... as dubiously necessary. Sorry it's a bit long, but I prefer precision over brevity... Hope this helps. ;o)