Why Quartersawn wood matters on a guitar

[@willmorrison1022]

Of course, I agree, but only to a point. Sides, for instance. Depending on the instrument, for instance, mandolin or violin vs guitar. Both Siminoff (Ultimate Bluegrass mandolin construction, 4th ed, PG66) and Johnson/Courtnall (The Art of Violin Making, PG80) say that sides should be as slab sawn as possible. Simonff even says that flamed maple sides are next to impossible to bend . I can verify that, as I have tried bending sides that were lovely quartersawn maple and would NOT bend for the life of me. I tried more heat, less heat, more water, less water, no water, NOTHING made those sides bend right. I gave up on them and went to some slab sawn ones that bent like butter. Granted, they don't look as nice as the quartersawn ones, but they bent in about a third the time of their correctly sawn brothers. Maybe it's just maple, but it sure does NOT like bending without cracking along those grain lines. MISERABLE stuff to bend. Anyways, that's the only place I disagree. Johnson/Courtnall even say that sides with parallel grain to the face are actually stronger. Again, that may only be in violins/mandolins, but it's a consideration. Nice talk, though. I do agree with 90% of your points.

[@chuckmorrison]

You bring up a good point. At the thickness used for violin sides, using highly flamed quartersawn wood is literally bending end grain to a much tighter curve. The only place this would apply on a guitar would be around a cutaway. For whatever reason, tightly flamed maple doesn't hold together well, especially wet. I never soak tightly flamed maple sides longer than a minute when bending with a hot pipe and I keep the heat low to avoid scorching. Maple takes a set nicely when clamped into a form, so getting it close and then clamping it in to dry (set) is a useful strategy. Last year I built a lovely flamed maple classical guitar. I had no problem with the sides at all and they bent very smoothly, no bumps at all. I see no value in slab sawing anything on a guitar. Violins are a completely different animal.

[@levijessegonzalez3629]

what about for electric guitars? is it worth getting a quartersawn neck? and secondarily, a body?

[@chuckmorrison]

Many electric guitar necks are slab sawn including Fender. So I doubt much value can be had debating that point. I also don't think trying to analyze grain direction on a slab of wood that is completely covered in a thick finish is very fruitful. I know there are folks that would take that challenge, but I'm not one of them.

[@coffeelazuly]

where do you buy your wood, do you recommend any dealer in usa?

[@chuckmorrison]

I have bought wood wherever I can find a decent cut of a wood I need for a decent price. I'm reluctant to recommend any one dealer as It's preferable to find a local source so you can pick out the best piece(s) for your own use. Beware of buying wood sight unseen and taking someone's word for species and quality.

[@MA-uy5vz]

Who is the vendor of the “not ideal” wood you mentioned at 4:13? Want to make sure I avoid them.

[@J.C...]

You mean vertically oriented grain. You don't know if it's quartersawn without seeing them cut the log because there IS NO, ABSOLUTE WAY TO TELL IF A BOARD WAS QUARTERSAWN WITHOUT SEEING THE LOG CUT UP. Fact of the matter is, most wood for necks isn't quartersawn. NOT EVEN THOSE PIECES WITH VERTICALLY ORIENTED GRAIN.

[@chuckmorrison]

In my lifetime as a guitar maker, the term used quartersawn was used specifically because it was the best way to get vertically oriented (to the widest face) grain from a log. With flatsawn cuts you get 1 or two center cut slices out of a log that could be called vertical grain. For us old guys the terms quartersawn and vertical grained are pretty much synonymous. You can be as pedantic as you like, I won't argue the point and I'm not going to use all caps to get folks riled up. Maple necks are seldom veritcally grained. That's true of violins as well as solid body (and arch top) electric guitars. I rarely make a neck from maple. For other woods I prefer a vertical grain alignment. For most woods this is the more stable alignment.

[@BillO964]

I have to agree , using the term quarter-sawn is incorrect for wood that simply had a vertical grain appearance. And it does matter and not just pedantic. True quarter sawn lumber has different characteristics than flat sawn even with the appearance of vertical grain. BTW..I am 70 with a degree and career in Forest Products Technology. If you are presenting yourself as an expert, it behooves you to get it right please. As an old guy...terminology matters.

[@BillO964]

You are correct.