Why Should I Use Terminal Strips on My Boat?

[@paulwhealy5243]

An example of before and after would be very helpful. I know a number of my boat owners want to learn more but in this case they would be straining to understand the importance of what you are saying. Pictures a would be great. And maybe a small physical board on your desk with maybe three breakers going to three loads. A rats nest panel and a neat one using terminal strips.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good point Paul, pictures are worth a thousand words.

[@AlfOfAllTrades]

I've been a terminal strip disciple for years. It just simplifies a wiring job SO much, makes it more reliable and easier to troubleshoot. There are so many "spaghetti plate" wiring jobs that would benefit greatly from liberal use of terminal strips.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Alf, same here.

[@JoJoRocks5]

every once in a while could you add a picture during your explanation, Thanks, these are great!!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Noted! Thanks for the pointer.

[@dannyjensen4954]

excellent. I used extensively for my bilge pump wiring an coated with liquid electrical tape. A marine surveyor told me about this trick.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing

[@jeffdieringer1]

Jeff, do you like the idea of using Deutch connectors for wiring up various components?

[@scottdowney4318]

Terminal strips make wiring life so much easier. Under my helm on my old 1970 37 Egg Harbor, I also have large positive and negative buss bars, very handy. Basically 150 amp fused power comes in to that buss and wire bolted on to the buss, then a multitude of smaller wires run to two remote fuse panels, one panel on left covered by a small door is push button breakers, other panel is carling helm on-off switches next to the engine gauges. Each wire gets fused, eventually, not immediately at the buss, unfused wire length is about 2.5 feet. This is all housed in the helm cabinet. The return wires attach to the negative house buss bar. It may or may not meet ABYC standards, but that is how it was done in 1970, and it is all mostly original, and working fine. I have maintained it since 1998 when the boat ownership fell to me. And I have made improvements too. like with fusing the big wires off the battery switches.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Appreciate your input.

[@johnhubbard6262]

Have you used terminal strips with ferrule connects as opposed to ring connectors

[@erniesanders3724]

Great tips Jeff. You’re exactly correct. Looking forward to the next post.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Awesome, thank you!

[@jimtrimblett8333]

My question is: Why do you need a dedicated neutral bus bar for the inverter and can you add a switch so that you can swith them together when you just want to use shore power with no inverter? I love all your videos. You make boating so so much better. Thanks.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Jim, not sure how well i'll do explaining this, your inverter/charger will connect ground to AC neutral whenever you are using the inverter. To avoid AC going to the neutral bus for non-inverter circuits, you need to separate your neutral bus.

[@jimtrimblett8333]

@@PacificYachtSystems I think you did a grest job explaoning. As usual. Thanks.

[@jimtrimblett8333]

Is it OK to put circuit breakers connecting both neutral bars and both hot bars so I can have everything on shore power and turn off the inverter?

[@stevekline8018]

Question!! Why use a 20 amp vs 65 amp.

[@PineappleOranges]

What do you think about the DIN rail system? Have you ever come across it on pleasure craft?

[@Nixontheman]

Hi Jeff, love your channel. Just wanted to let you know that you are a KZbinr, we are viewers/subscribers.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Your right, thanks for that.

[@Nixontheman]

@@PacificYachtSystems *You’re.......sorry, I can’t resist a stupid joke......

[@akilback]

Another great video - thanks Jeff!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

My pleasure!

[@octopusiicaptn8632]

Hi Jeff, when more than one wire going to the breakers through would you add them on the same screw or daisy chain them through another bus first, as usual, your ask & reply are excellent.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

For more then one circuit, use the little jumpers to join different parts of the terminal strips together.

[@ThinKkBIGG]

When you make your connectors, do you recommend putting dielectric grease inside the connector? Same thing, but do you recommend putting on electric grease or conductive grease such as Permatex Copper or Penetrox A13 for example to prevent the ingress of humidity or corrosion as well as seizure of connections?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Don't have any experience with dielectric grease, anyone else can share?

[@cornelisvanderbent2092]

Jeff's videos are amazing. For other opinions and discussions I always look on CruisersForum.com Here's a discussion about use of grease: www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f14/electrical-contact-grease-146955.html I've worked on a complete rewiring of a sailboat and after reading about it, we decided to not use it. I think dielectric grease may make sense in potentially wet places. The boat I worked on only used it on the connecters outside (e.g. the ones for running mast wiring through the deck) or in not well closing lockets, ...

[@extrememiami]

These terminal straps all corrode and lose voltage eventually after 5-10 years. I only use them when I have to like connecting a windlass in. In modular places you can't help it but if I can direct wire I would always choose that in any location that will receive salt spray. I spray mine with battery terminal spray not dielectric ot stays in better. Also fun fact, 90% of people think dielectric is conductive, it is not, it is an insulator. Not saying you thought that.

[@razorsharpbt7666]

@@extrememiami The negative buss bar in my runabout is 10 years old. It's in the back of the boat where it does see plenty of moisture and it looks brand new. I think the quality of the terminal block is very important. I know Blue Sea Systems makes great ones.

[@SJMessinwithBoats]

@@extrememiami Battery terminal spray is the way to go. Did that a lot when I worked line mechanic at new car dealers.

[@jdubya1517]

Hey Jeff! I see a lot of Wago brand connectors starting to show up on lighting and other gizmos here in the States. What are your thoughts on those? The Wago connectors on the LED lights I got from the big box store are "push in" for solid conductor, but they have lever action connectors that do wires up to 4mm/12 ga. I'd imagine the drawback would be corrosion, but that seems like that could be mitigated with NOALOX or a similar product. Just wondering what you think. Great videos, and again... thanks!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good one, besides the corrosion issue of having unprotected wire ends exposed, Wago is a good solution. We use it on large yachts (100 ft or more).

[@andytrommald5327]

Hey, I'm new to electrical work, can I just 5200 my terminal strips to fiberglass inside my console or should I go thru the effort of mounting a mounting plate and screwing it in? The glass in my console is very thin. Would something like 4200 be better?

[@redwood1957]

I would watch how you use the word everywhere. As an ex navy electrician and a land based electrician for over 30 years. There has to be a plan / location/ of said terminal strips/terminal panels identivigation of wires. From what I have seen there is room for improvment on all boats. thank you

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for the reminder Redwood, appreciate it.

[@redwood1957]

I know I'm preaching to the choir

[@JohansGrandBanksSaabEtc]

I often find myself having a tad too large ring connector diameter for the terminal strip screw, which I guess affects resistance negatively. For example an M5 ring on an M4 terminal strip. Some say it doesn't matter, some say it does. It would be interesting to know whether max Amp rating is affected by using the wrong size because I can assume it's quite common to not use the exact right size.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good question, but unfortunately don't have any data on this issue.

[@JohansGrandBanksSaabEtc]

@@PacificYachtSystems i purchased a thermal camera yesterday. I'm gonna do some tests.

[@snakeplisken4278]

In the most basic example, how do you use the terminal strip. ie where is the + and - that goes to panel and where is the + and - that goes to load ie my cabin light?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Two of the main purposes of the DC panel is 1) ability to turn on and off a circuit 2) provide circuit protection. Bring the positive from the terminal strip to a spare breaker on the DC panel so you get a switch and circuit protection. The negative from the terminal strip should be connected to the negative distribution.

[@44kebeck]

I often use the European style terminal strips and ferrules. Easier to crimp on and the terminal strips leave less exposed conductors so possibility of a short is reduced. Also looking into DIN rails for organizing wiring.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Richard.

[@FreedomSalon1]

Great Video. Thank you! You mentioned that the terminal strips come in different amperage. Which strip do you use for a panel where you have different amperage?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Peter, on my own boat, i used a 30 amp terminal strip for all the DC connections at the panel.

[@SoaringEaglesMountainBiking]

Perhaps you could show us a picture.

[@BlackheartCharlie]

Another reason to use terminal strips instead of butt connectors is to avoid cutting back wires every time you swap out a defective bilge pump or fresh water pump. Lol, I've worked on boats where the bilge pump wire had been trimmed back so short over the years that I had to pull an entirely new wire from the breaker to the bilge.

[@akeromar]

Hi Jeff, would you recommend to wire AC neutrals and ground wires to common bars as well instead of directly to the AC panel?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Either option works, most boat builders bring the neutrals and grounds to common bus and rarely the back of the AC panel, probably to avoid overcrowding of the AC panel.

[@robertovalls]

Agree on all points

[@anorris1212]

These are useful in the design, build and documenting of control panels. Having all of the wires that come into the panel, and go to a buss bar keeps everything organized. Buss locations are marked as to where each connection came from, and goes to. Easier to read schematics, for the next person to troubleshoot or for changes to the system.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Very well said, thanks for sharing.

[@JakMang]

I have also found that the connections on a distribution panel are very closely spaced and the screw terminals are at odd angles. This makes them difficult to access when mounted on a boat. Also, it is very difficult to work on under way. There maybe times underway when you can’t completely deenergize the panel, but you need to make an emergency repair. I want things setup so everything is easily accessible when offshore. I hope to never touch the panel wiring itself after installation, only the terminal blocks.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Jak, you bring lots of good points.

[@Brad1711]

How do you determine the amperage rating of an existing terminal strip? When installing a new one I label it with the rating for future reference.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good question, because they are NOT labelled, we can tell by the size of the strip. Probably worth seeing a 20/30/60 amp versions first hand at marine chandlery. When in doubt, assume a lower rating.

[@donpetrey8007]

Ok that makes sense but here is the issue I have found doing it this way. Over time and just the nature is the term strips end up getting corroded how do you prevent this.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Don, good point, probably a spray of Boeshield T-9 would work. Any other boaters have any suggestions. boeshield.com/

[@jb7702]

Jeff: I enjoy your videos and recently received a PYS ballcap. Do you use ring terminals on the wire when connecting to these terminal strips?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi JB, thanks for support. Yep, definitely use ring connectors for terminal strips.

[@edrymes3653]

Terminal strips are the only way to go. After working a career in avionics (aircraft electronics) I couldn't imagine wiring without. Wire labeling is another thing to look into.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

So true, thanks for sharing.

[@1fastbuggy502]

Hello Jeff , A little off topic , but I just purchased 4 12 volt 100 ah lithium batteries from Canbat here in Canada . My victron multi plus is 24/3000/70 . Canbat just informed me that I cannot hook up my batteries in a 2s 2p configuration . They can only be in series or parallel . Was told that the BMS would not work in this set up . Now what ?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hmmm, get two larger 200 amp-hour batteries instead of four smaller 100 amp-hour batteries, in turn wire the two 200 amp-hour batteries in series to get 24 VDC.

[@1fastbuggy502]

@@PacificYachtSystems Thanks for your reply Jeff. I am stuck with the 4 batteries I have . Wife would leave me if I spend more on 2 more batteries. LOL

[@martijamesn]

If you are rewiring a Catalina 22 how do you run the port side lights in the sentry and v birth. 1 run or 2

[@PacificYachtSystems]

It's quite common to have a single electrical circuit to power multiple lights, especially since the amp draw for LED lights is so low.

[@thehousemouse4517]

Why are these not available with a cover ? Especially when used for 12v positive side . All other marine 12v positive connections require a cover .. yes

[@EricEversonArtAndDesign]

A quick search for "terminal strip cover" shows that there are some available. I'm not especially impressed by what I saw. I may decide to make my own. Having that convenient circuit test point is enough reason for me to want to use the terminal strips, though.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Here is a link to all the Bluesea covers available: www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/67/BusBars/Accessories

[@doncornish4173]

I am using double crimp ring connectors. One crimp is the strain relief, crimping onto the insulated part of the wire the other crimps the bare wire. Hint for boaters, I have always used a terminal block on our trailers. How many times has the wire leading from the trailer to the tow vehicle or the connector been damaged? With the wires attached to a terminal block it is an easy repair and as Jeff says "a place to trouble shoot". The addition of a small waterproof utility box around 13.00 at a national import store makes a great place to put your terminal block. A great source for these terminals, the crimping tools and videos is American Autowire.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Don.

[@jonasfalkenstrom7261]

Here in Sweden they are really expensive, $25 and up. But they just look like simple pieces of metal. Why is that?

[@AlfOfAllTrades]

Det er for at importøren og distributøren (som også gir deg garanti) også skal tjene penger. På samme tid er volumet av salg lavere her i nord så prisene blir en del høyere enn andre deler av verden. Man KAN kjøpe direkte (90% av slike varer lages i Kina, på samme fabrikk...) men da sitter du uten garanti om noe går sønder.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Jonas, not sure about why the cost is high. Terminal strips are not just a marine item, although you want to make sure the terminal strips are tinned to prevent corrosion.

[@jonasfalkenstrom7261]

Thanks both!

[@tobey1974]

@@PacificYachtSystems hi Jeff. Why is using tinned wire, tinned terminal strips etc. so important and such a big deal? I understand many say it protects against corrosion, but many of our boats are from 1970-1990 and older. The wires in old boat I don't think is tinned anywhere but still works fine today. So is tinned connections and wire important to make sure our wiring today also works in 50+ years or just a matter of being extra extra safe and cautious?

[@javierbetancourt9388]

💯

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks Javier.

[@StefanWeigelServices]

I disagree. Every screw, which is not installed, can not get loose.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Stefan, interesting point. Many European use spring loaded connections, like Wago, for doing connections. North America and Asia, use lots of fasteners. You can purchase spring loaded butt connectors from various manufacturers, therefore avoiding using screws.

[@StefanWeigelServices]

@@PacificYachtSystems good Point

[@anthonyellis9804]

Don't know why anyone would be concerned about a screw not installed getting loose

[@vernheiler2906]

@@PacificYachtSystems In that respect (spring loaded), why not use wire-nuts filled with dielectric grease?