What Is The Purpose of A Terminal Strip on My Boat?

"I have a question regarding terminal strips," writes Chris. "I often see images of wiring panels with rows of terminal strips where each incoming wire attaches, then a second wire that goes to the breaker etc. What's the purpose of the terminal strips, why not lead wires directly to the circuit breaker or negative DC bus bar on the breaker panel?"
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[@giovannifiorentino8947]

Jeff, very important topic. Some pictures of do’s and don’ts would complement graciously.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Duly noted, will keep this in mind for a future video.

[@darranhewitt3602]

Thanks Jeff, how about showing us some photos of Terminal Strip installations please.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Will do, thanks for the suggestion.

[@jfo14]

hey Jeff, watched your videos a bunch when completely rewiring my 17ft Whaler, I had no experience beforehand and I'm very happy with how all of the electronics are wired up now. I didn't cut any corners and although it's a small job, I couldn't have done it without your videos. This year has been peace of mind on the water. You mention your sailboat in many of the videos, I would love for you to put out a video of your boat and the wiring of it, if there's already a video of this, could you direct me? Thanks for all the help!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks John for the feedback, glad your project went so well. A video of our boat is definitely in the works, just a few more things to do before i'm ready.

[@WyrGuy2]

As always, great information Jeff. One thing I do for those areas that may be subject to the salty air/moisture is a throw-back to my industrial construction electrician days and I mount terminal strips inside a ridgid PVC junction box (ie: 4”x4” or 6”x6” with watertite strain relief connectors for the associated cable to enter through and the boxes also have a lipped and sealed lid. For the smaller boats I’m usually working on (sport fishing runabouts etc) I especially use them for a ‘control/power’ point for bilge pump and remote float interconnections. As I can’t attach any pics for you to see, I’ll follow up with an email for you and also, if you think that it’s a good visual ‘step up’ above just using terminal strips, you can use the pics as you see fit. Keep up the great work, us ‘Elechickens’ need to stick together!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for adding to the conversation, much appreciated.

[@GrampalettasCamp]

Love the boxes for terminal strips. How do you seal a dozen + & - wires going into the boxes?

[@erniesanders3724]

Excellent tips from an expert. Spot on as usual Jeff. Thanks Jeff from Western Kentucky.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@morgan17121712]

Thanks Jeff. I would love to see an electrical audit on your own boat. Cheers

[@PacificYachtSystems]

One day, it's a never ending project... always chasing the elusive perfection.

[@benbodenhamer]

Jeff I’m a Marine Tech in the PNW and I couldn’t agree more!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks Benjamin for weighing in, much appreciated.

[@Apweng33]

Hey Geoff great video - as usual! How about a tour of your Catalina - would love to see the setup!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Great idea

[@joannehart9624]

I agree! I have a first gen Catalina 36 so it would be especially interesting to me. Thanks for your great content!

[@thesailormen]

It could be very interesting to have a electrical tour of your Catalina boat, with improvement you achieve over the years.

[@seanrhone5306]

When using a terminal strip, would you put the fuze between the strip and the panel or the strip and the load?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good question, and it depends. Terminal strips are commonly used to interconnect the output of a circuit breaker to a load. In this case the breaker should be sized to protect the wire and the load of the circuit. If the terminal strip is use as input to the panel, then you should also fuse those circuits at the terminal strip before they get to the DC panel.

[@Electronzap]

Sounds good.

[@jackseaa3911]

Hi Jeff, i have no real experience in wiring but i always thought this is a great idea to do. If you do have diagrams on how to do this from the panel to the strips that would be great.. I'm unsure how and what breaker is attached to the strips.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good suggestion for the future.

[@ianmac86]

Thanks Jeff. Pretty sure my Clipper 34 (CHB) was designed and originally built with abundant terminal strips but since has had many additions made to the electrical systems. Challenge is to find the non-complying circuits etc and to fix etc. Seems too much to contemplate but it should be done I guess. Thanks for sharing Jeff. Ianmac ( NSW Australia)

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Ian, much appreciated.

[@luissantiago5626]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the video. I'm currently in the process of redoing the dc panel. I bought a new panel and terminal strips. Do you have any diagrams or a video that shows how to wire from the terminal strip to the dc panel to have a nice clean installation?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Luis, unfortunately don't have a DIY video on the exact how to do of redoing a AC/DC panel, good idea for the future.

[@luissantiago5626]

@@PacificYachtSystems Ok excellent. That future video will become one of the most popular, a “must see”.thanks

[@joannehart9624]

As you move away from the panel and towards the loads, terminal strips are still important when you need to troubleshoot, disconnect, or replace the load. I have a terminal strip that I use for my bilge float and bilge pump. I recently wanted to replace both components and the terminal strip made the process quick and simple. They also make troubleshooting much easier because you don't have to pierce the wire to the load to see if you have voltage.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Joanne

[@carlsmoot2939]

I'll be wiring my wooden cabin cruiser soon (built from plans by me). I am new to marine electrical although I have read quite a bit over the years as I progressed on the build. I will be having one sub panel for the port side electrical (remainder of the electrical and the helm are located on starboard side). This sub panel will be connected via a single power line to a power point o the starboard side, thereby reducing the number of wires crossing the boat. Okay with that bit of background, what I am still somewhat confused about is one, how far should the terminal strips mentioned in this video, be from the panel? Two, is this strategy good for multiple stations in the boat (i.e. forward electrical versus aft cabin, etc.), and is it generally a good idea to reduce the number of wires running through the boat, given that multiple appliances will then have to share power leads. I do realize that these appliances can be mounted in parallel thereby avoiding the chance of one fault killing the entire circuit. Thanks for a wonderful channel and for being so helpful and sharing with your knowledge.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

The terminal strips should be located as close as possible to the electrical panel but also in a place where you can easily access. For instance, on my boat the terminal strip is located about 5 - 7 feet away from the DC panel.

[@snakeplisken4278]

Do you have an example of one setup with terminal strip. Should "terminal strips" have fuses?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

A terminal strip with fuses, is sort of a fuse block. Blue Sea Systems, makes really good ones, check them out. Some of the fuse blocks, allow you to connect positive and negative connections.

[@thesailormen]

Question: what is the best way to identify cable? do you have a special tools? is it a Brady? is it a sleeve, a self laminating, etc? Thank you.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good question, lots of options, we use label makers and affix the printed label near the connection.

[@captaingordon]

Does every terminal strip, fuse, bus bar,… the more connections between the battery and load a device passes through, do those result in voltage drop?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good point, all connection points can be a potential weak point, if the connection is done correctly, voltage drop at a connection is minimal. To your point, don't have more connections then you need.

[@416srw]

Hey Jeff, I have a question for you. If I wanted to use a solar array to charge all three battery banks on my Sailboat ( Engine start, house bank, bow thruster ) could I use a battery isolater between the MPPT controllers and the battery banks? Bow thruster and Engine start batteries are AGM, House bank is LiFePO4.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Since the solar controller can output one charge curve, better to have the solar array recharge the Lithium and then share the charge to AGM batteries via DC to DC charging converter.

[@pmdoit]

Why not use waterproof connectors instead of terminal strips? It seems that the exposed terminals of a terminal strip would 🤔 be subject to corrosion.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

It's a balancing act, either you do splice connections with a butt connectors and they cannot be easily tested or serviced and yet they are protected from the elements. Alternatively, you install heat shrink ring connectors to the wire ends and connect the wires together using terminal strip.

[@jameshunter4352]

I agree with terminal straps, but the weakest or most prevalent issue is with the integrity of the termation/terminal end isn't it

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good point.

[@BYENZER]

After any and all terminal strip installations, I ALWAYS SPRAY COAT the entire terminal strip and ALL the connectors with CLEAR, RUBBER, SPRAY CAN, ELECTRICAL TAPE. Why clear? Because YOU will SEE any CORROSION that may develop, under the coating!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

What product are you actually using? Please share.

[@BYENZER]

@@PacificYachtSystems Yes. "PLASTIDIP" Liquid Tape - CLEAR. Many other brands of spray-on clear RUBBER are available too. DO NOT USE CLEAR SPRAY PAINT. Spray PAINT will develop micro cracks which let salt air and humidity pass to and fro. Lastly, THREE THIN COATS of clear rubber spray is best. Why? Thin coats allow the spray's carrier gas to gas-off quickly without capturing micro bubbles that may pop open later leaving an air path. Multiple THIN coats allows micro bubbles to reach the surface and "pop" whilst the spray rubber is still wet.

[@BYENZER]

@@PacificYachtSystems Here's another CLEAR SPRAY RUBBER: www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-265495A3-LeakSeal-Flexible-Coating/dp/B08MWYD2B1/

[@GrampalettasCamp]

How do you get the rubber off for testing or changes and how do you reseal?

[@BYENZER]

@@GrampalettasCamp For testing, simply stab through the rubber sealant. Then reseal the stab wound. For more, razor knife cut around the target terminal to be removed, then peel off. Acetone clean the surfaces. Reseal afterwards. (Some clear sealants will clean up with just alcohol).

[@anthonymarino4260]

Well said w o w

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks!