Why Smart Plugs EXPLODE or MELT With Heaters! Are Smart Plugs Safe?

Why Smart Plugs EXPLODE or MELT With Heaters!
If you're wondering if you can use a space heater with a smart plug, then this is the video for you. There's a lot of reasons that smart plugs can sometimes melt or explode when they are used with space heaters and with other high amperage or high wattage devices in your home.
When you understand what's happening, then you'll understand how to avoid this. You'll know how to keep your #smart #home #safety high and your smart plugs secure! You'll know if smart plugs are safe, and you'll know how to keep smart plugs from being dangerous.
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Thanks for watching, and Don't Hate, Automate.
Brian

[@csilv]

Great video! Small comment... i assume many are already aware but worth mentioning. Typically in newer houses, receptacles for a given room are going to be on a 20amp circuit, not 15amp. The receptacles themselves will be rated for 15amp, but the circuit will be 20amp since there will usually be multiple receptacles for a given circuit. (The only time you would see a 20amp receptacle used is for a dedicated circuit.) So in practice this means that a space heater is unlikely to trip a circuit on its own, it would need additional draw from other devices on that same circuit for a trip to occur.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Thank you Chris! Much appreciated for bringing this on. I didn't want to get too complex with all the actual ratings in the video itself, but this is something I can pin for people to ask about and discuss.

[@SteveStowell]

Then you should pay more and buy a 20 amp model. Newer homes have existed since at least 1954 as 20 amp circuits with 12 gauge wiring has been used since at least then

[@1991AJQ]

@@SteveStowell average consumer dont understand 15 or 20 amp they just go with cheaper options

[@houstonshomeautomation3524]

Brian you are the news authority for smart homes in my book !well done. Love that background knowledge!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Thank you sir! I just try is all :)

[@CannabisTechLife]

Thanks! I have been using a space heater + smart plug to heat my grow tent all month and this was very informative!

[@AutomateYourLife]

yeahhh, be careful on that! It's probably pretty humid in there too right? That's an additional issue for arcing, FYI.

[@berylwhite2983]

Incandescent, you did a very nice job presenting a very complex topic. I can give you a very good representation of arcing. We had an electric company at one of our factories that was working on the power supply coming into the building and the building was completely metal. And somehow arching. We had an electric company at one of our factories that was working on the power supply coming into the building and the building was completely metal. And somehow they got the wrong kind of screwdriver Dropped In the Transformer Transformer and it caused and it caused an Arc to jump off the beams across the top of the building. I was told it was a very impressive sight to see you is like lightning going from one beam to the next. Keep up the great work. And be safe

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ohhhh that's a great story. One day maybe I can tell all the stories about exploded buildings that I've seen...might have to!

[@calamityairlines9762]

Truly interesting video . I'm a A/V engineer and have a basic understanding of electrics and found this helpful . As always thank you for all the videos , stay safe in these difficult times

[@AutomateYourLife]

I'm so glad this brought something to someone with your experience! That's a real positive for me!

[@KartikKeyan]

Perfect example of what am running into. Thank you for posting the video this is really helpful. I have two rooms connected to the same breaker and I need to run them on at the same time. Goove has some space heaters which are reasonably priced compared to Dyson and it has all the tip-over protection and all the nice features. Now I have some aqara climate sensors to monitor the temperature and turn on the heater at Low mode (700W ) now even if I run both at 700W the total Amp would be 11.66 Amp less than 80% of my 15A breaker. This space heater has Alexa and Google Home integration.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I'm JUST testing one of those Govee heaters. Love it so far.

[@silnce01]

Thank you for this. Need to rethink a space heater I have been using temporarily in a greenhouse. This was just to buy me time while I actually run electrical to the greenhouse and install a approved greenhouse heater. Only using it on low heat to prevent freezing temps.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I'm glad this helped! Let's keep those plants growing!😀😀😀

[@paulmurphy6130]

Thank you for bringing this to my attention! I knew this but I didn't really think about it when I plugged my electric kettle into my smart plug

[@AutomateYourLife]

A kettle should generally be fine, but always good to check!

[@SimplyElectronicsOfficial]

Just so you know. Nest integration is now up and running inside Smartthings app. In the UK at least?

[@AutomateYourLife]

In Canada and the US too! Thank you!

[@HughD]

Great information, Brian. Keep this kind of thing going, Brian. It's useful and makes us think. It's sort of like eating our Smart Home Vegetables... They may not "taste" as good as the fun things, but sometimes you just gotta do it and learn some of the dry stuff. Another alternative is to move way down south where space heaters are rarely required. I did read that the US National Electric Code specifies that a circuit shouldn't handle more than 80% of the breaker rating. That means 16 amps for most circuits. I could be all wrong... I'm guessing that's why most of the smart plugs seem to be rated for 15 amps???

[@AutomateYourLife]

Thanks for that Hugh! I agree...I felt like this was something I could bring to the channel and I'm going to build out these deeper learning videos I think. It's something unique and like you said, we gotta eat our veggies. Or move and ignore them!!! AHHAHAHAAA!

[@AutomateYourLife]

You're probably right about that reduction in rating. I haven't read the NEC in a bit, though I did read the CEC (which is basically a carbon copy with a few changes here and there) recently. I believe that it's specifically for inrush and for fault management too. You don't want to burn wires inside a wall in a home...cause...that's the end.

[@theacme1000]

I had a Kasa smart plug melt from a heater. I thought it was because (or at least was contributed to) it was plugged into the outlet on the wall above the baseboard heater and the extra heat rising up caused the issue. I changed the standard outlet to a Leviton z-wave smart outlet (one socket controlled, one always hot). I use the heater a lot and turn it on/off a lot and haven't had an issue for many years now. I was (am still) hoping that using an outlet will handle the current better than a plug in device.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I think in general you're right. An outlet over a smart plug is going to be better. You can still eventually run into the same problem, but I think you'll find them to be more resistant to heat and current over time.

[@frenchheadbutt]

thanks for the info! what could be a safe alternative? I like to wake up to a warm bedroom and I was using a smart plug to turn it on.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Try a smart switch if you have an outlet that is controlled by a light switch, or use IR based control if your heater has a remote!

[@Conundrum191]

Interesting video -- I always assumed if a plug was rated to 15A and the breaker was 15A, assuming nothing else on that circuit you were likely fine, assuming it also didn't have a huge start-up draw when the plug turned things on. That said, I have been using a 15A (TP-Link KASA) plug to control a dehumidifier for almost a year without issue. Looking it up now, that unit pulls about 6-7A under load, so I assume that's still safe given it should never get near 15A? Also I have a few computers plugged in (different breaker/circuit) just in case they hard lock while I'm not home and can't remote in/remote reboot (Plex server being one of them). A quick google seems to point to these pulling at most around the same 6-7A if under full load, so I assume safe as well?

[@AutomateYourLife]

You should be good with that setup. Maybe just check if it's heating up over time with your hand every so often. If you do find it's heating up pretty well (the smart plug), then it's probably a good idea to replace it every so often.

[@williamcusac]

Ty for the information! I was thinking about buying one of those ceramic 400 watt wall heater and connecting it to a smart plug? Good idea or no? I was thinking it shouldn't be that bad since it's only a 400watt heater? Any help is appreciated!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Sorry Arthur. The engineer in me says not a good idea.

[@tipdub]

Thank you for the very informative and well done video!

[@AutomateYourLife]

My pleasure!

[@jessaramos2992]

Hi! I've been using the Teckin Smart plug with my heater and it's relativley new. I turned it on today for about an hour and I had put a timer on it. I just tried turning it on and the plug itself turns on but it seems like there's no power that goes on to my heater as the heater itself doesn't turn on. However if I plug my heater regularily into the socket the heater works fine. Do you think I short circuted my smart plug due to the heater or could it have possibly been a faulty plug? The other smart plug is connected to my lamp and has been working great. Thank you for the video! Wish I saw this beforehand.

[@AutomateYourLife]

You've done some damage for sure. The good news is that it failed in this way and not a worse way! Toss the plug. :) Faulty? No clue. Just sounds like it took an overload and failed.

[@hypercoffeedude]

I have actually needed to do this for a permanent ceiling mounted garage heater and decided on using a Sonoff S31 to power an Eaton Definite Purpose Contactor which will handle up to 40 amps of resistive heating. The Sonoff only needs to power the contactor's coil, and the heater's power no longer runs through the smart plug's relay and components. Just an idea for people who may have a garage heater install or something else that is safe to run unattended. Always use over rated components when possible. My heater only requires 21 amps, so it's only around 50% of the contactor's rating and should last a long time.

[@AutomateYourLife]

That looks like a great suggestion there Matthew. Good stuff!

[@mils232]

Great video very informative. Are there any plugs you can recommend for washing machines and air conditioners that have energy monitoring for smaetthings

[@AutomateYourLife]

Hey Mike, Washing Machines usually require a higher amperage service. Check out Aeotec for one there. As for air conditioners, honestly...get a smart one like this Midea one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4Guhp2redSoY7s. I don't like most of the ones on the market today even when they say they deal with motor/inductive loads. At 15 amps and at the size of smart plug that they make, it's just not enough space for proper heat dissipation. At least, that's my opinion when we're talking about long term use. That Midea one has been bulletproof. I just turned it off with my voice this morning and that's after leaving it disconnected for about 6 months. :)

[@Doughroy]

Any information regarding a block heater on an EP40?

[@BenDelano]

If you do want to run a heater on your smart home, I bought one that came with a remote (most do now) and programmed it into my Broadlink RM Pro. We can schedule on/off times through Google Assistant with it, and it's safely plugged into the wall by itself.

[@AutomateYourLife]

And that's a great idea Ben, just make sure you get that visual confirmation that everything's OK with that heater. Nothing on it, right?

[@BenDelano]

@@AutomateYourLife Yup! We mostly only schedule an extra 30 minutes of run time when going to bed, then have it turn on 30 minutes before our alarm goes off in the morning, and we do it by voice every night. I refuse to add it to a scheduled routine or anything where I can't be sure of it's state or know someone will be in the house when it turns on.

[@dnoland77]

Brian, Is the danger still present if the heater is on low setting, 500 watts and on a thermostat? I am considering replacing some of my outlets with the Kasa smart outlet and use the smartplugs somewhere else.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Hey David - You still have some risk but you've definitely lowered it considerably by lowering the overall usage of amperage. Remember though, you're still creating heat in all the components!

[@etzard]

I have blown a couple of these so called smart plugs from diffrent manifactures playing around with loads. These plugs in my mind are all poorly designed. My General rule of thumb, Do not exceed 2/3 of the rated capacity of the smart plug. Avoid inductive loads like motors aka household fans. I have blown one of these on a normal room fan. I agree fully with your assessment. Be very careful were you use them, because these things will burn a house down if incorrectly applied. Good video as always and thank you for keeping us informed.

[@AutomateYourLife]

You know your stuff, clearly. Those inductive loads can be baaaaaaaad news and never seem to be handled well by these. I like the 2/3rds rule too. It goes in line with most electrical standards!

[@NVMTB]

Great video Brian. Can we expect the same kind of issues to apply to in-wall smart outlets? One would think the smart outlets would not have the same vulnerability.

[@AutomateYourLife]

So, an in-wall outlet could have the same issues, but a good one should be produced from a hardware perspective the same as other "normal" outlets you have in your home. I think you're safer here, but please buy quality from a maker that normally produces outlets!

[@NVMTB]

@@AutomateYourLife Thanks Brian, much appreciated. I've picked up a TP-Link Kasa KP200. The reviews are great but your video has me concerned. Thoughts?

[@WarrenDunlop96]

@@NVMTB @automateyourlife In the same boat. Can we get a reply here AYL?

[@rorylayden123]

Great video ... Apart from using the very expensive Dyson heater, is there any other cheap way you can use a smart plug relatively safely with a panel heater?

[@AutomateYourLife]

I think you want to really oversize the smart plug vs the size of the heater. Then you always want visual confirmation of that heater having nothing on it or being tipped over. My advice is still don't do it

[@elijahwatson8119]

There is a little hack that would make a fairly safe way to automate a cheap space heater. Contactors. They're usually rated at 30 amps or more and can safely handle a space heater. Get a contactor with a 120v control coil, and wire any cheap old WiFi outlet to it. I did something similar using a contactor and a sonoff wifi switch to control a 5000 watt garage heater.

[@threepe0]

It’d be great to see relays mentioned in a video like this. Putting a good relay together would avoid a lot of the problems mentioned here I think.

[@AutomateYourLife]

In many cases it could, yep!

[@massimoparisi4149]

Very interesting. I bought here in Spain a Tp-Link Kasa smart wifi plug 16 A 3680 W to start my Rofco B 40 (max 3100W) oven at night ,but after starting for only 30 minutes the plug disconnets due to overheating. Is there something I can do? Or which plug would you recommend . Thanks

[@AutomateYourLife]

I would recommend that if you're seeing a plug overheat already, that you stop. Seriously. As soon as that fail safe doesn't work, you could start a fire.

[@markmceathron2013]

This technical guy loves technical videos! I learned something today! Very cool, and thank you! This is one of the reasons why I'm such a fan of the Shelly Relays. They have safety protections specifically for this very reason. While able to handle 2x2300W or 2x10A (on the Shelly 2.5, or 3.5 kW on the 1PM, they also have their own internal temperature sensor to kill the current if the temperature gets too high. As you know, one of the main jobs of security guys isn't so much keeping networks safe, but also keeping the infrastructure safe. It's cool and all to have a NAS at the house to control your own cloud, but if the house burns down, the NAS goes with it. That's a denial of service. Safety, is every bit a part of security. I cannot wait to see what you have next, sir!

[@AutomateYourLife]

I gotta get a bit deeper on those Shelly's...you know, they've been sly with me on specs and certifications. I really just wish they and Sonoff would share their certification data so we could be sure about the safety.

[@markmceathron2013]

@@AutomateYourLife won't lie, it is cagey to nail down. A month ago, when you would go to their site, you could see a Shelly 2.5 with a UL Listed certification. Plus, a Shelly 2.5 without the UL Certification. That baffled me so I asked. They said there was no design difference. Just a deviation between lot numbers before and after certification was granted. It appears now that all the non-UL 2.5's are gone. Only the certified ones remain. The frustrating thing is that this is ONLY for the 2.5 Others are still undergoing evaluation an so SOME Shelly devices are UL certified, some are not. All meet the European Certification requirements which is quite similar, but insurance companies are picky and I would only use the UL Certified devices.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yep...I've had this back and forth with them a couple times. Not touching it guys... certification must be there. I know far too well how certification ensures levels of safety that are necessary for electrical gear. I've seen too much exploded switchgear

[@markmceathron2013]

@@AutomateYourLife yeah, I need to see that UL stamp or it's a no-go. Still, you should give the UL certified ones a deeper looksie. I sure would be interested in your thoughts!

[@petepablogaming243]

I have a Dyson that I got ages ago but it's not the smart version. I have had it plugged into a smart plug and have not had any issues. But should I be concerned? After hearing about this I feel a little unsafe. I'm from the UK and I see that there are fuzed versions of smart plugs. Would having one of them be safer to plug my dyson fan into?

[@AutomateYourLife]

It's going to be hard to advise you here. There's a lot that goes into the situation. Fuses can sometimes be better, but they have a "damage curve" just the same as the graphs you're seeing here. Some are fast acting and pop quickly, but I've also seen fuses not "pop" when they should. I think the question is if you really need to automate that Dyson.

[@Ban00]

Hey I'm late here. Just bought a delonghi space heater 1500w, I have 2 socket outlets (one above one below). 1 socket below is plugged to a surge protection extension that has my laptop, monitor and chargers. The 1 one socket above is empty, is it safe to use this solely for my space heater? Wondering if the 2 sockets share one circuit and as a result risk going over 1800w allowance (15amps * 120)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ok, if you're directly into the wall this SHOULD be OK. If you are using a 2 socket smart plug, you need to be very careful. This whole video explains how a smart plug could explode with that kind of load on it. That's likely an inductive load and will heat the plug. My advice is don't do it if that's what you're doing. Just don't use a smart plug with the heater. If you're going directly into the wall, a properly designed home trips after you go above the 15 amps max for most circuits. There could be a delay, but you have protection in your home's breaker.

[@DebWHNP]

Great information in a language a lay person can understand!!!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Glad to hear that! I really tried!

[@ronm6585]

Thanks.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Thank you sir!

[@andydavies27]

Thanks Brian, and appreciate these technical videos to underline your points (backing up with real knowledge - that’s rare on KZbin!) I did have a couple of heaters on smart plugs (Teckin) but after I had one blow out a while back (I thought it was just a dodgy plug) I have decided to take the others out after your video. You also make a good point about the risk of turning them on remotely and not knowing something may have fallen onto then (particularly clothes etc). I can see why Google want to avoid those lawsuits saying their app caused a fire by turning on a heater!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ohhhh, I'm glad this has helped! Yeah, I felt like it was time to really dig deep and try and tackle something VERY technical. Let's hope we can find something that works for us and can keep us safe. I feel like the tech exists today, it just hasn't been made.

[@philipperostin]

Great ! Now I know why I could not find a smart heater :)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yep! Everyone's a bit worried about the engineering behind it and the safety

[@Dave-In-Greece]

Great info and Vid...You only had one suggestion for this problem. Have you not seen any suitable smart plugs on the market??? Thanks, Dave

[@AutomateYourLife]

Hi Dave, sadly to make a full recommendation on something that's going to be safe, I'd have to see companies' damage curves. Not one company I've seen publishes those and that means I have to stay safe for you all. The short answer is no, the long answer is someone needs to prove that they can do it, publicly.

[@Dave-In-Greece]

@@AutomateYourLife...makes perfect sense....Iblive in Greece and we all have these great AC/ heat inverters here. I've had two wifi plugs melt on me🤬🤬🤬

[@AutomateYourLife]

@@Dave-In-Greece be careful my friend!

[@Dave-In-Greece]

@@AutomateYourLife Absolutely...thanks 💯💯💯

[@CarnivoreRonin]

Hmm, maybe this would be a great use case for a SwitchBot? One could use it to throw a much higher amp switch to power on a heater.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yep! Great use case, but you always gotta make sure nothing is on that heater! Visual confirmation right!?

[@calamityairlines9762]

Yes Jason great idea

[@calamityairlines9762]

Love the IT crowd profile picture

[@AlexG-fn4dd]

Hi. I wanted to see if you had come across smart plugs that would work with US 20amp 240volt outlets. Thanks

[@AutomateYourLife]

I did. Aeotec has one. It's a bit older and requires a Z-Wave hub. But I remember it being 50 amp

[@TravisSchlueterBeckner]

How would you apply this to, say, a heating pad? My use case would be that I want to be able to keep the heating pad plugged in, but have the smart plug essentially act as a smart "current shut-off" based on a timer or as part of a routine "Goodnight".

[@AutomateYourLife]

This is still something that could cause the same phenomenon we're talking about Travis. However, I think you're talking about lower amperage in general. I'd say with a 15 Amp smart plug and a normal usage of 7-8 Amps on one you'd be OK most of the time. I also wouldn't leave it on all night, k? Still, watch it and check for heating. Don't forget too, over time heating can increase on smart plugs.

[@TravisSchlueterBeckner]

@@AutomateYourLife absolutely! Makes sense. And I have the kind of heating pad that does auto shut-off after 2 hours. I just want to also make sure I have the ability to "kill" all power to it even after it shuts itself off. Does that make it better?

[@Hevel-zzub]

Hey Brian is this the same for using a switch on a microwave? I have parents with dementia living in our home and I am hoping to use a flic inside the cupboard to turn on the microwave. It is unsafe for them to use it on their own.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I think as long as your smart plug can handle the microwave for a while (upsize the Wattage vs the microwave wattage as much as you can) then I think you'll be OK here because microwaves don't tend to run for very long time periods like heaters do. Still, I'd have an auto-shut off planned somewhere on this.

[@mikeclement7020]

Great video Brian , Do know of a brand smart plug that has a setting to automatically shut off after say 5-10 or 15 minutes or longer . Thank you Mike

[@AutomateYourLife]

Hey Mike. You could do this with a lot of systems but those kinds of automations aren't 100%. Please make sure you're being safe and have a visual or physical way to verify that the plug turns off. Alexa routines can wait 15 minutes and then turn off the plug after turning it on. Meross has a nice feature that allows turning off of their devices after being on for X time. Lots of apps could do it! SmartThings, Hubitat. All the hubs :)

[@mikeclement7020]

@@AutomateYourLife Brian , thank you so much for the info !

[@jimb032]

It should be pointed out also that many of these smart plugs And strips are measureing current (power use) with a shunt resistor. Where there is resistance there is heat, especially at the upper end of it's capacity. So especially never use space heaters with these types that measure power because it's almost never measured with a CT

[@AutomateYourLife]

Theres a guy who knows his stuff. CT talk and everything!😀

[@MarkRowsey]

You should have done this video the ElectroBOOM way and melted one of those WYZE plugs on-camera...HA HA! I only kid. Real question: what about those hard-wired, in-wall, smart plugs? I think TP-Link has an in-wall version. Would those handle a heater? I've always wanted to have a smartplug on a heater for the just in case instance I leave it on and leave the house. I've never wanted to use it for automations or to turn it on when I'm not home. Thanks as always for your work and the informative videos (and keeping our houses from going BOOM!) :)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Isn't that guy just the best??? Maybe I need to ask him to do this one too. So the actual outlets should be rated to handle this, but even those I'd have to look at damage curves on and understand if my breaker was protecting it. But again, they should theoretically be protected by a standard 15A breaker

[@vicentesp1312]

I am interested in possible automations since I have a relative who, after analyzing the electricity bill, we believe that he often leaves the iron on for a long time. I think the same criteria would apply or would there be an alternative?

[@AutomateYourLife]

I would do it here. Shut it off after 20 minutes use or something

[@AutomateYourLife]

Certain Smart plugs let you turn off at certain power levels too. So maybe if it goes to an idle mode you turn it off. You'll have to test it out

[@picotrain5078]

At least in the UK we have double the voltage than you guys, therefore half the amperage. Tell me, do you feel any benefit from running smart plugs that report current flow, as heat is as you say directly related to current flow so there is cleary an large increase in current for some time way before the plug starts to become a risk. We use home assistant to report what we consider to be an over current. So if i have a 3000w rated smart plug i will normally have an alert set at say 2kW and have home assistant switch it off at say 2.5kW. I will vary these settings based in what device the plug is running, as i cleary dont want a warning of 2kW if its running a 500w device.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I think you're talking about measuring expected current flow and therefore figuring out how your devices normally perform. Then you're talking about setting O/C protection and hopefully doing it at the right levels for the device you're using. I like that approach because that's how industry does it. They just measure devices before they go out the door and go into use. I would say 2.5 kW is a big difference from 2 kW though, so maybe tighten that up. Things get out of hand quick in the world of electricity. So yeah! Lots of benefit in reporting current flow! Just consider where your O/C protection kicks in vs the types of graphs you saw here today.

[@duffry]

Would this be the case in the UK? I have a fused plug in a smart plug itself in a fused extension cord. Are the two fuses protecting me from these issues any?

[@AutomateYourLife]

Sadly, fuses are very similar to breakers. The difference being that they get physically burned out vs a breaker which can be reset. They still have a curve for how they burn out, so that means the same theory applies. You need to know when and how they burn out and make sure your smart plug is being protected.

[@duffry]

@@AutomateYourLife Thank you! Does the 220-240 volt thing help? I used your formula for 2000 Watts / 220v to get what seemed a decently low amperage. Am I doing that right?

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yeah so the 240 volt thing does bring down amperage. That's great too, and that helps with heating. W / V approximates Amps. It's not exact, but good enough for what we're doing here. There's something called power factor involved in that conversion.

[@THEDADDY7770]

Hey bud, quick question, as I know you've covered this, cross automations, IE, would you use direct say smart life, or through Smartthings, same with other cross companies?? TIA

[@AutomateYourLife]

Well the SmartThings and Smart Life integration has just expanded and works with more devices, so definitely through that!!

[@THEDADDY7770]

@@AutomateYourLife Sorry, you miss understood the question, I know I know use Smart life through Smartthings, My question is, would it be better using Smartlife direct or use it through Smartthings, the reson im asking, is I have in Google 3 of each light now, as I have the smart life the smartthings and then googles lol, so when I ask to turn one light off it says turn off 3 lights lol, which isn't to much of a problem, where I have the problem is with Bond, when it turns the fan off it turns it back on because it send the signal out more than once. TIA

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ahhhhhhh, tough question to answer in comments. I think with the Bond what I'd do is take one of those devices and just move it to another "home" in the Google Home app from SmartThings. Especially since it sounds like you have a gap in time on control. In general though, I would say there's not enough in the SmartLife -> SmartThings integration to use that method. So go to Google with those devices and maybe move the SmartThings ones out to a separate home.

[@THEDADDY7770]

@@AutomateYourLife Thanks bud, right now all the duplicates I've just put a Z in from of the name, them put them all in a room of their own, and called it Z-Room lol other wise I end up with 3 or th4 same device in the same room, But I just thought of Unlinking Bond and Smartlife from google and controlling the devices through Smartthings,

[@Nimrahir]

cheers for the video, was wondering if anyone knows a 20A smart plug from a respectable brand ? Would like to use this to charge my battery from my car (hybrid) so would do with 16A charging, just would like the smart plug to be a bit bigger for safety. Any tips and ideas are welcome. It needs wifi and to be programmable as I have a variable energy contract so i can pick the cheapest window to charge.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I believe Aeotec's got a version that's meant for bigger loads like this. Check with them on your use case though, that's a bit of an intense one...

[@cameronwilliams808]

Do you have any recommendations for a led grow light that is to be left on 12 hrs a day. I can’t find any timers or smart times I don’t see some kind of hazard (fire hazard)

[@AutomateYourLife]

You know, I've had amazing luck with Aerogarden period. Otherwise, I might put a standard grow light on a smart switch. I think you'd be just fine there :)

[@andrewbagnall5430]

We have something similar in the UK regarding the graphs. It is called thermal graph and it covers MCB’s, fuses, etc. It has been over 10years since I used one. 😂🤣😂 Basically it gives you disconnection times under fault current situations with the rated protective device. So with an MCB the higher the fault current the faster the disconnection time. But what I don’t understand with smart plugs why don’t they state a Resistive and inductive current rating of the relay. I know it says 10A but I assume it’s a resistive rating. Also needs to be some type of thermal overload protection inside them. Great video by the way.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Thanks Andrew. We're actually seeing resistive/inductive load ratings show up now on smart plugs. I think folks have started to catch on!

[@andrewbagnall5430]

@@AutomateYourLife LED lights have massive startup up currents when first powered on just for a fraction of a second, this seems to be causing problems with smart plug contacts. Also I am finding that some smart plugs here in the UK are allegedly rated to “13A” but it is a 10A relay inside the smart plug. So here in the UK it has a maximum loading of 2400W or 1200W in the USA. I would never use a smart plug for any heating application, it’s just too risky. How long does a smart plug last you? I have got some here lasted 12months to 3years. Tapo Smart plugs are a 12-18month life span, Meross 2-3years. My advice to anyone is use smart plugs for light loads, no lighting or heating. Sorry this reply was so long. 👍🏻👍🏻🤣😂🤣 TFI FRIDAY!

[@ROKKIT44]

Curious... What is with the red bull?

[@AutomateYourLife]

He represents alot for me. :). I'll explain more as we go, but today it's about charging through life!

[@prawns]

240volt 10amps in Australia for wall sockets - yet my spearpoint/borewater pump runs a 400volt capacitor to handle the "inrush" you mention just to get it spinning up to begin with (else it melts wall sockets lols) Found this out the hard way when it blew up and the next time it ran,, guess what it melted lols

[@AutomateYourLife]

EEP! Yeah even with the lower amps this can still happen hey? Scary stuff but good to hear you have the cap in the way there to at least help that inrush smooth out. Now let's get you a VFD and REALLY smooth that out.

[@prawns]

@@AutomateYourLife I had to google what a VFD was but yeah that looks like it would save my powerpoint if the capacitor fails again :) The pump comes with the 400volt capacitor from the factory to help inrush - and they enclosed it seperatly inside a plastic enclosure mounted to the pump - When i saw it blown up i realised why its stored in a enclosure lol it really went in a big way (melted and end blown off lol) included a link to a photo of it blown up if your really bored lol ibb.co/BcnbB3k

[@prawns]

PS - Just like to say thanks for all the videos - your the reason i got into home automation a few months ago hahahah. My spearpoint pump is actually running off a tuya smart plug these days and runs on a automatic schedule. I also changed it so google thinks its a fan (which allows me to tell it to turn the sprinklers on for 30minutes without google saying it wont as it cant schedule switches- I learned that trick from you as well hahahah) Cheers and have a top day up there, from downunder (australia)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Oh that made my day sir! Cheers from the frozen tundra of Canada!😛

[@paul9387]

Hey Brian, great video. I had two smartthing plugs run power monitoring on both washer and dryer. Based on that I created and automation in smartthings app and thanks to your "Amazing Device" handler Alexa was telling me "laundry finished" etc. Was afraid that AMP be too big for these plugs but had no issues. After getting eero pro 6 it's impossible for me to connect them back, have no clue why, it's the only device giving me hard time. Now I need either new plugs doing same thing or new wifi washer and dryer, but my Miss would break my b$lls if she knew that this is the only reason I'm replacing these units lol I'll probably go with aeotec, hopefully these will do the same as the other plugs 🔌

[@AutomateYourLife]

Huh...That's REALLY annoying. I don't know why they'd struggle so much. Obviously you've tried things like a full factory reset and bringing them closer to the Eero right? It's also possible now maybe a setting in Eero isn't allowing connection of those...maybe it's a security thing.

[@paul9387]

@@AutomateYourLife no clue Brian, tried everything. But, this might be a rookie mistake and lesson for others.. not saying that it is. Another addon to your video about beginning of this journey etc.. I have a one special character in my wifi password, it might be that these plugs won't see your wifi with it. I have so many devices added that changing a password to something else and adding them all would be another day taken out of my life, not even gonna try. But broadlink rm4 pro didn't connect either, where it says something about special characters in its manual. This might be the issue

[@AutomateYourLife]

Oh very interesting...something to test! Although I do have characters...

[@macinman]

Hey Brain, couldn't people just buy a smart heater, so it's correctly balanced, so one wouldn't have to risk doing this? I love smart plugs, I have three from amazon. I would prefer buying a device with the smarts built in though, because you usually get more options and control that way.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yep! So I haven't seen a lot of good smart space heaters, which is why I talked about the Dyson there. It does both and has some additional protections!

[@macinman]

@@AutomateYourLife I was actually considering if my pedestal fan I have on a smart plug would eventually cause a problem. It's just a typical three speed fan by Lasko, but motors do have a coil and they heat up. So wasn't sure if it would ever get to the point I'd need to be concerned. It's the only device on that plug, and so far nothing has been hot when I've touched either one.

[@AutomateYourLife]

@@macinman you should be fine with fans. They actually have a very different inrush than bigger heaters and it's usually a lot easier to run :) Your fan will have a length of time it's allowed to run continuously for though. They always do!

[@elijahwatson8119]

In my opinion these shouldn't be legal to sell. If it's rated at 15 amps, it should be able to safely handle 15 amps (as well as the associated inrush currents) indefinitely. There are almost no space heaters than pull 15 amps (due to NECs requirement to not load a circuit past 80ish percent for constant loads). They're all pretty much 1500 watts or 12.5 amps and thus there is absolutely no reason why a device rated at 15 amps shouldn't be able to handle them safely. Either they need to be banned (and companies like Amazon fined if they sell them) or they need to be a little more honest in their ratings. If they rated them at 10 amps, I wouldn't be complaining.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I don't disagree at all. Inrush has to be handled, as well as heat dissipation for ratings.

[@michaelcorner432]

This happens with UK plugs too. I was stupid enough to do it without thinking/checking, and melted my smartthings smart plug with my electric oil filled heater.

[@AutomateYourLife]

It happens to so many. Just glad you're safe!!

[@EspadaMK]

Have a look at igenix, they do sell on Amazon but sell convection heaters with smart functionality built in at a reasonable price.

[@dumbledor123]

Same but it's not really something that is easy to check. I didn't see any warnings on the device or on the Samsung website. All I see is it can handle up 1800 watts / 15 amp and oil heater is 1500 watt. Mine melted too. I guess I'm going to try to go the smart wall socket route.

[@haarvengaming6727]

im using smart plug for an extension plug....since it's behind my bed...is it okay if i just turn the smart plug off using my phone n leave on the socket that i pluged smart plug in ...the smart plug led will be on since the socket is on but the extension wont be on after i turn off the smart plug using my ohone .....is it harmful and will it consume electric?

[@AutomateYourLife]

Without knowing what you're plugged into I can't tell ya much!

[@haarvengaming6727]

@@AutomateYourLife my smart plug is plugged into wall socket ...is it safe if the smart plug left on but turned off using phone ..i mean like the socket will be on so does the smart plug ...but turned off using phone

[@philipperostin]

Oil heaters should be ok then as they get slowly heated ?

[@AutomateYourLife]

It all depends. They usually heat up with a good inrush too as they're heating a ceramic element usually to do the heating. So it's pretty similar depending on the design right?

[@MonkeyPunchZPoker]

@@AutomateYourLife I would think oil is a more efficient cooling medium than air. Is this something you could measure with a Kill-A-Watt or something?

[@guregu]

AYL, would you consider also uploading your content to some alternative video platforms like Rumble, Bitchute or others? These platforms are growing and need more great content like yours. More eyeballs & more $$$. Some of us dislike YT but want to still watch your stuff. Thanks.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I'm not adverse to the idea. I'll look into it! Thanks Greg

[@nikolaypetkov4510]

I’m using a smart plugs With my heather and they work perfect together.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Yeah, so I'm going to reiterate that you should be careful with that. :)

[@bruceweese8558]

Great PSA - does this also mean you should not put a smart plug on your coffee maker?

[@AutomateYourLife]

A coffee maker is a lot lower amperage in general, and a lot lower time that it's using any amount of real power. So I'd say you're good with that one sir!

[@PhillyDjHook]

I never heard of smart plugs 🔌 catching fire 🏠 🔥. I have Kasa smart plugs 🔌. I gotta research this.

[@AutomateYourLife]

You'll find something Philly!

[@PhillyDjHook]

@@AutomateYourLife Oh I believe you. Thank you. I didn't know. I have two electric radiators on Kasa plugs 🔌. One upstairs and one in my Man 💪🏾Cave. I don't want my home burning down. Thanks for making me aware. I do have my heaters on automation timers ⏲️. Meaning, once it reaches a certain degree it shuts off automatically. It only comes on if the temp drops too low. All thanks to SmartThings. Which I found out about from you, Brian.

[@CannabisTechLife]

@@PhillyDjHook "YOU! OKAY! I learned it from YOU! "

[@rahulchoudhury3472]

I am from india. Can I use 2900 watt oil heater with 16 amp smart plug from Wipro brand ?

[@AutomateYourLife]

I don't know enough about any of what you just said to determine that. Your heater could be many kinds, I don't know your power system, and I don't know the specs on the plug

[@Uberkewl]

Is it safe to use a smart plug with an 800 watt parabolic heater?

[@AutomateYourLife]

That's a pretty general question that I'd have trouble answering. In general, that's a pretty low wattage so in terms of a smart plug handling that it should be fine. However, it will still cause all the issues OVER time that were discussed in this video, and you still have a very hot surface to contend with!

[@CryptoDigger]

So the idea is that you get a smart plug that supports at least 2x the peak consumption? Example - if your heater is consuming 1kW, you should get at least 18A smart plug (for US) or 9A for Europe? I didn't really get the recommendation :)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Sorry, but the idea is that the ratings aren't explained well enough to make an assumption. So only get plugs that say they can handle the type of load you're after.

[@rpierce9810]

That's what she said Brian? LMAO!!!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ahahahhahaa, I'm glad someone caught that!!

[@rickytin3251]

I like this

[@AutomateYourLife]

Glad you do! Thanks!

[@LRvTv]

Filament bulb?

[@AutomateYourLife]

Should be just fine!

[@Ricardo.L.P]

@Paul Hibbert can you please do a remake of this video? I did not understand how to choose a smartplug for my heater.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Lol but the point is you shouldn't choose any

[@Ricardo.L.P]

@@AutomateYourLife not really true. I've been using an heater on a TP-Link hs110 without any issues for the last 3 years. (but this might be an Europe certification thing though)

[@AutomateYourLife]

Having it work for a number of years doesn't change the opportunity for trouble. I'm pretty familiar with EU standards, and actually in most cases, North American ones are much more stringent. Just be careful.

[@Ricardo.L.P]

@@AutomateYourLife It does :) Further more in EU we do have a mandatory certification (CE) that certifies the security of such devices. you can read more about it here: europa.eu/youreurope/business/product-requirements/labels-markings/ce-marking/index_en.htm and here ec.europa.eu/growth/sectors/electrical-engineering/lvd-directive_en#:~:text=EU%20legislation%20in%20the%20electrical,75%20V%20for%20direct%20current. Oposed to USA that does not require any certification for such (electrical) products (certification-experts.com/knowledgebase/what-is-the-difference-between-usa-compliance-and-ce/) I guess USA is not so stringent at all... Just be careful I guess :)

[@AutomateYourLife]

What you sent is technically accurate, but in any retail store in the US/Canada, you're going to find ONLY CSA/UL/etc. certified products. It's only the world of online that has allowed products without those certifications into people's homes. This is an additional problem and one I hope to address on the channel, actually. I've received a few products that don't have those certifications, and when I do, I tell Amazon and the product is instantly de-listed. They know it's wrong, but haven't found a way to control it yet. FYI - Those products didn't have CE listings either, so I don't think this is an N.A. problem only! However, the CEC in Canada and the NEC in the US both state the requirements for electrically connected devices and in order to be certified, you need to meet those standards. Depending on your device, you may need to meet additional IEEE, CSA, or other governing body certifications. For example, arc flash is handled by IEEE 1584 and CSA Z462 in Canada. NFPA has their own standard for arc flash in the US. So, to get a UL/etc. certification, the product has to meet all that. It's a LOT. What I'm saying is the actual meat of the standard is more stringent in the US/CAN vs EU's CE certification. That's an in general statement of course and there are parts where you could find the CE's guidance to be better, and others where the NEC is better.

[@loganfisher3138]

For anyone who still wants to connect a heater to a smart plug, I can tell you that this heater works well with Kasa smart plugs. I've been using the combination for ages with no issues. smile.amazon.com/Portable-Heater-Comfortable-Adjustable-Thermostat/dp/B08H5QKYQL It's only a little heater meant for a small room, and Kasa plugs are pretty durable.

[@Bricenoma]

Great video thank you. Please, which smart plug can I use to connect a bitcoin miner 1,500 W at 220v? Thank you in advance

[@AutomateYourLife]

It's going to be a similar situation. There are smart plugs rated for this though for sure, especially at 220V. What I'd try to do for your setup there is to make sure your miner is protected first, and smart second. :) You want that GPU protected from brownout/surge.

[@Bricenoma]

@@AutomateYourLife Thank you. What kind of protection do you mean?

[@AutomateYourLife]

More like power cleaning. A good signal cleaning ups is likely more help to your wallet and life

[@joshw3090]

Halogen?

[@AutomateYourLife]

😀😀

[@SpaceStrike]

Some power strips actually advertise using heaters, because some name brands have protection if anything burns. I wouldn’t trust it though

[@AutomateYourLife]

True. True. True. You gotta watch power strips just the same!

[@SpaceStrike]

@@AutomateYourLife exactly!

[@EsotericArctos]

It does surprise me that smart product manufacturers have not created a plugin device suitable for space heater control, given this is something people would want to control regularly. I know Aeotec make a high current z-wave device, but this needs to be hardwired. It is definitely a hole in the current product offerings.

[@AutomateYourLife]

There's a biiiiiiiiig gap there! I think most manufacturers are simply staying away from a use case that won't look good in the end.

[@lornehampel1330]

Make sure they are rated for 1500w!

[@AutomateYourLife]

Even then Lorne...even then.

[@lornehampel1330]

@@AutomateYourLife You may be right. I had some die that were underrated. It only took a couple of hours in most cases and they were very overheated but not on fire or melted. I have 5 running (Meross) with not even an overheating issue. To be clear they rarely run for more than 40 minutes at a time (that's why I have so many.) My situation may be different than others.

[@faengelm]

old bulb's name?... incandescent

[@tonytango6676]

Yup

[@AutomateYourLife]

Oh thanks! I don't know why that escaped me then LOL

[@rickytin3251]

Owie

I believe the instructions on the smart plugs state that you can’t use them with a/c, heaters or aquariums.

[@AutomateYourLife]

I'm glad you read those! Most...don't

[@loganfisher3138]

The issue with aquariums is really just the risk of getting wet. There's no issue there if you can assure that the plug remains dry.

@@loganfisher3138 the filters, they can burn your plug.

[@itsX2024]

How about Smart Plug's with Air Conditioners? Safe or not?

[@AutomateYourLife]

Same problem

[@TjtYahoo]

Smart plugs are designed for at most light bulbs.

[@AutomateYourLife]

Some not even that 😄😄

[@ryamelp]

So in short. Don't do it.

[@AutomateYourLife]

If I was to summarize...yeah

[@c.g.236]

I have never actually felt a need for smart plugs when there are smart power strips out there.

[@AutomateYourLife]

That would be the same conversation though! Don't think you're safe just cause it's a strip!

[@c.g.236]

@@AutomateYourLife Are any of us really safe though?

[@USA-CANADA1480]

So in other words, instead of all these electronic jargon and graphs, can you use a KASA smart plug with 15 A capabilities on a radiator heater on a 1200 W / 120 V = 10 A? YES OR NO? Sheesh. Get to the point

[@AutomateYourLife]

Short answer is maybe. Details are in the video.

[@patrickcadette]

😁😁😁👍👍👍

[@AutomateYourLife]

😁😁😁😁

[@badrhabib5963]

Just low-quality Smart Plugs

[@AutomateYourLife]

Even the highest quality ones I've seen can run into this. Please be sure before you trust your home to a smart plug in this situation.

[@josedominguez2706]

Why would anyone want to put a space heater on a smart plug... Ur just calling for problems....

[@AutomateYourLife]

Ohhhh but it's so common! Like it's one of the first things people try when getting into a smart home.

[@josedominguez2706]

I would be a nervous wreck... I worry about leaving the toaster plug in when not in use... Lol but thats just me

[@AutomateYourLife]

Not just you! Did you see the level of paranoia I just showcased? 🤣🤣🤣