WHY Spark Plugs Don't Want to Come OUT

[@briansmobile1]

COMMON QUESTIONS & ANSWERS: Q. HOW DO I GET A STUCK PLUG OUT? Is it a Ford 5.4L Engineering Failure? There's a kit for that ( amzn.to/32BC2pe ) Everything else → A. Get the engine up to operating temperature. Heat causes the head to expand and soften a little. THen employ the "clown fish method." Get it slicked up with a thin penetrant. Crack it loose anti-clockwise, tighten it back to knock stuck stuff off the plug side. Loosen it, tighten it. Out a tiny bit- back in. Re wet it. Then a little more. Back in. Rust dust piles up and creates a high friction bind. This method allows it to be like slick mud not sand and to smear out instead of binding. Q. MY SOCKET IS STUCK ON THE PLUG DOWN THE HOLE. A. Old extensions have weak detent or retainer springs. Get a newer extension with a stonger/newer/better detent spring to grip the socket with.

[@luiscazares4511]

Can you help me my car is marking this code P1521 it is a dodge charger 5.7 does this code cause my car to turn of. Thank you I would really appreciate it.

[@sranjesuper]

Been a mechanic for 10 years , and the best thing that saved me from a seized up spark plug was a very simple thing. Let me first say how I found out. I had to change plugs on a 2003 Altima 2.5 , and the car came in at the end of the day. So i tried removing the plugs, and noticed they are not budging at all. Even with a lot of force, it feels like it will snap right off. So i soaked all the plugs in PB Blaster, which is a good penetrating fluid, and came back the next day to attack the car. Tried again, same story. Then i really had no choice but to try one more thing, and that is , to run the car until the engine is very hot. So i ran the car for 20 minutes, getting it real hot. When it was super hot, i tried loosening the plugs, and they all loosened 1000x better than before. It wasnt even the Lubricant that helped me, it was all heat. And to think that some old mechanics used to tell me " never do spark plugs on a hot engine, because it will pull the threads " , meanwhile it actually helped me out

[@vmukal8430]

A better title to this video would have been "How to Avoid Difficult Spark Plug Removal the Next Time." There is nothing mentioned about what to do "when spark plugs don't want to come out."

[@adamj2381]

Thanks, saves me 12 minutes watching this video.

[@freddyflintstoned913]

Almost completely worthless.

[@jjsrt8]

Ducking day

[@desmondjones8484]

B

[@desmondjones8484]

Mv

[@coachmattc]

Six years later and you're still helping new people. I was able to get my plugs out but they were not easy, not hard, but not easy to un-thread. The whole time they felt like the threads where clogged. Used your tip on grinding two slots in one of the plugs just removed. Ran it in a bit, backed it out, cleaned the slot. Repeated going a litter further each time until it came out clean. New plugs went in like I would expect. I also used just a dab of the copper anti seize and a dollop of silicone. The car is 10 years old and 140K. I believe I just removed the original plugs so we will see if it paid off in about 10 years from now. :)

[@27dcx]

That's a good tip with the pick and silicone, way better than my usual method of trying to pull it off with long bent needlenose and just ripping off a little chunk until I get frustrated and chuck the pliers across the garage.

[@alohadakine4571]

Thank u for the silicone tip. A fren of mines had all 4 of his spark plugs + plug wires stuck in his head... it took him 3hrs to chip away at 1st plug and it was only 65% out. We stepped in, looked for videos on YT, used various tips (silicone) and it helped us cut down time to 45mins each plug!! One of the plug wires came out completely thanks to silicone tip, and overall the job was much faster. Saved us about 2-3hrs of "extra extra" hard work. We were able to take out all 4 spark plugs, installed new plugs & wires and it started right up first crank purring like a dream. **If anyone is attempting to remove stuck spark plugs the main thing you need to know is you must clean the spark plug area out COMPLETELY before removing the plugs- if there is debris it will fall into your head and you will have a world of problems. But it's likely that you'd need a new head anyway if you cannot get spark plugs out, so it's probably worth the risk. You might get lucky and able to pry the pieces out relatively easy without much debris & feel great saving yourself $300-$500. 2000 Honda Accord.

[@Jaaaaaaaaamees]

Thanks for the tip. Worked very well! I use some lubricant spray to soak the stuck plugs and patiently work them out backwards and forwards. If they bind up, stop and soak for longer, then come back later. Cutting the slots in an old spark plug and coating with engine oil works a treat to gently chase out the threads.

[@mrdeadworry]

Coming from a salt water environment aka the East Coast US dialectic grease is what you should be using on not only the spark plug boots but also the threads. The spark plugs are a electrical circuit and the threaded portion of the plug acts as a ground. Most anti seize compounds will stop this circuit from happening, since corrosion is a electrical reaction. Kinda surprised you did not pick up on this. Your videos are really informative and have help me out many times so thank you. I have a ford van that has the problem of a really badly machined head and the threads on the spark plugs tend to get mangled especially the #6 cylinder due to the number of threads in the head have been reduced by half. Most people have the problem of plugs being thrown at highway speed. Have not had this happen to me but changing the plugs is a challenge, hint, hint . Thanks again for all you info and work.

[@HsCSpanky]

Anti-seize is usually aluminum or copper based which will conduct electricity. Dielectric grease prevents conduction of electricity by it's very name. It's silicone. The reason electricity still gets through is due to mechanical contact of pins and connectors pushing the dielectric grease out of the way on the contact patch. Same thing will happen on the threads of the spark plug. The process of torquing the spark plug down will smash the anti-seize away on the contact patch so it's metal on metal and will conduct. The other reason I'd advise against using dielectric grease on threads, especially on the head, is that it melts easily, much more so than anti-seize and may not protect as well in the long run.

[@sidewayzmike]

Two way street, lol.

[@warusweims]

I use Loctite Silver Grade anti- seize. Here's a tip I got directly from Loctite! Over time and as you deplete the jar of anti-seize, it get's thick and pasty. You can use any thin, petroleum based oil to get it back to the viscosity it was when you first opened the jar. I've used 0w20 engine oil and I've had great results. I'm going to try hydraulic oil in the future. Great videos Brian!

[@ozzstars_cars]

I like the spark plug thread chaser you made, cool tip. I always use anti seize on spark plugs and always will.

[@crcdesign9886]

I found a trick that was extremely useful on the new 4.7l dodges...I assume it would work here as well...stick a large flat head screw driver down the spark plug tube..twist with a little force and snap the porcelain off...then put a magnet down the whole to pull it out.. no need to worry about the porcelain getting into the engine..if you are blow it out with compressed air BEFORE removing the rest of the plug.

[@crcdesign9886]

this obviously ONLY works if the boot itself is in the way/stuck on the porcelain of the plug..NOT for a plug seized in the head.

[@briansmobile1]

Spoiler alert- MOST are stuck on the plug. Only in extremely rusted spark plug tubes do the boots rust on the outside circumference.

[@crcdesign9886]

I figured I had to be quite specific so someone didn't think that would work if the plug threads are seized in the head..only if the boot is seized on the plug.

[@CURBECK]

Nice, never thought of cutting the plug like that. True geniusness!

[@joescheller6680]

still waiting as are a few others, how to remove the stuck plug in head.

[@joshsmith7692]

Hey man, did you find a way? I have 2 stuck right now. My mechanic buddy said trade the truck in because when the plugs fail it will need a rebuild. I'm determined to figure out a way to get them out without breaking or stripping

[@davidhughes6368]

Good information. I also use a vacuum /gas hose to start a plug by hand.

[@randyphillips2263]

I use a 3/8 inch gas line hose. About 6-8 inches long. I loosen my plugs with a normal deep reach socket, about 2 turns then push the hose on the plug. When the plug is one of those in a deep well the hose is just thick enough it is self guided onto the plug. Then I spin it out with the hose. If the hose will provided enough grip then one should be highly suspicious of thread problems. Then of course to install the plug just jam the hose on them and down the hole and spin them in until finger tight. Then finish with the socket.

[@piranhapanda6535]

Wow. Thanks. I took the ignition coil out and it looks like everything came out. But there's a rubber thing in there like that. So that must be it.

[@rejeanbeaudette6929]

Ford 5.4 anyone?

[@fordwindsor351]

You are wrong, they tell you not to use antiseize because a coating of a material is baked onto the plug.

[@AGuysGarage]

Hmm never heard that before, but O.K. =) good info to have i suppose. Personally i dont care what "they" say, I always rock antiseize because long lived steel plugs in aluminum heads = broken or stuck spark plug due to a chemical reaction between the dissimilar metals. I figured they encouraged people not to use it because of people gooping it on and fouling out the plug. /shrug. learn something new every day

[@stevanrose7439]

I bought a 2002 Tacoma and it developed a miss that made the motor shake like it was falling apart. Well I started with the number 5 plug because it was the easiest to get to. But it felt like I was breaking my ratchet the way it was snapping and grinding. When I finally got it out it looked ok. And I was very close to putting it back in but I tested it with my multi tester and found it to be faulty. I put in a new one and some anti seize on the threads. Well i must have found the threads because it went in smooth as butter. And the rest came out easy and back the same way. All with anti seize.

[@HsCSpanky]

I had read that the nickel plated spark plugs, like the ones you're using, don't require anti-seize because of that nickel coating. The older black plugs did require it since there was no coating. Either way, I still use anti-seize. I also use dielectric grease rather than silicone paste (same thing anyway). Can't use too much of that stuff.

[@srg877]

Right on the nail Nate, the factory plugs for my vehicle(NGK) even specify that they contain a surface nickel plating that is sacrificed instead of the aluminum threads(via galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals). However, they do have a factory disclaimer that says once you tighten the new plugs down, removal of the new plugs will negate the nickel plating protection because it will stick to the threads upon initial tightening.

[@randyphillips2263]

Good info on that nickle plating that I have heard of before. Thanks John

[@trayahzz537]

when ive used antisieze it totally gums up.

[@YouTooCanDo]

I have one sparkplug stuck inside. It is seized . I tried to lossen it clockwise and counter clockwise back and forth. I feel that more force can break it inside the piston. Can I use any product to soak the threads? Which product and how I go about it ?

[@aliciasharp1680]

Hey brian. This video waa great. I have a Volvo xc90 two spark plugs are soooo stuck. My mechanic said he put some type of lubricant on them and he turn the car on to see if the heat would expand the metal and they still won't come out. Any tips?? 😣😣😣

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

Making a self tapping bolt? Awesome!

[@robert-bg9pf]

I have always been told that the reason to not use any kind of grease or anti seize on the spark plug threads is because it interferes with the grounding of the electricity from the plug to the head, effectively changing the heat range of the spark plug which obviously makes all kinds of problems.

[@briansmobile1]

You hear all kinds of wives tales in auto repair, but especially at the parts store and online. Most quality anti seize is either copper or aluminum based. Both these materials carry power into and throughout your home and car for their excellent conductive properties.

[@RobertDIY]

Watched a few of these videos, this one seems best. Thanks

[@Doctoranthetardis]

That sparkplug made to clean threads is absolute genius

[@spelunkerd]

Outstanding video Brian. I've been in that position, with a neighbor who asked me to help him change plugs. Boots were so stuck down they tore away, and then had to be scraped off inside a deep hole before my plug wrench could grab the plug. I agree, manufacturers don't care how difficult the repair is beyond their warranty responsibility. One day, can you discuss the difference between dielectric grease and silicone paste? They seem to be very similar....

[@briansmobile1]

Thanks Dave- great to see you! "Dielectric grease is a non-conductive, silicone grease designed to seal out moisture and, therefore, prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Being non-conductive, it does not enhance the flow of electrical current." -www.ipdusa.com/products/6706/114923-dielectric-grease Silicone grease info here describes the same benefit and characteristics of dielectric grease. → www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm Whatever the difference is, it's minor- like what kind of thickener is used or the specific type of silicone oil they start with. They look, feel, and function so similarly it's tough to know the difference without having access to the recipe of each. I know that dielectric grease will dissolve silicone rubber over time, but I think silicone grease will too. They both withstand high temperatures an are not water soluble. They both displace moisture and provide a good seal.

[@briansmobile1]

MSDS sheet for dielectric grease → www.super-lube.com/files/pdfs/SDS_Super_Lube_Silicone_Dielectric_Grease_EN_sds.pdf MSDS for silicone grease → multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xMYtx5xtB5v70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS-- 60%-100% of ingredients are "trade secret." That's tough to quantify for a comparison.

[@mrsemifixit]

+briansmobile1 Wondered the difference myself. Could dielectric grease be used in brake slide plins? Since its essentially silicone grease

[@jasonmashburn1280]

Thanks for the video. My plugs have been in my truck for about 8 years, I'm really not looking forward to changing the plugs.

[@mostlymoparih5682]

Great video. I just replaced the plugs in 99 3.3 Caravan and the front ones were a piece of cake but the back ones had not been changed in a long time maybe even the original ones. Two of the plugs were over 60 thousands and the other at 55. I had the car on ramps and got them out from under the car. One plug took me over an hour to get out. I didn't want to break it of strip the head so I turn out a few turns then back in again. After a bit when I had the plug turn out as far as I thought it would go I sprayed some silicone down on the threads as best I could then tightened up the plug and went back the next day. Before trying to get it out I started the car and let it run maybe 5 minutes. Didn't want the exhaust or cat too hot as I would be hugging them when I crawled under the car. To my delight the plug came out a lot easier and so did the other two plugs. I think a little heat on the plugs made them come out easier. I look at a bunch of videos but I wanted to see what you had to say about anti seize. I don't usually use it but I change my plugs often or at least check them so crude doesn't build up on them. Well seeing as the back plugs are in a tough spot I figured I would lube them so they are not as tough to get out the next time. Oh and instead of using your tip of an old spark plug chaser I used one of the old plugs I took out and put silicone on it and ran it, in and out of the spark plug hole until I could screw them in almost all the way in my hand. Again great video, have a great day. Happy Motoring.

[@rawfoodphilosophy7061]

I bought a back tap for $15 you put it through the hole and you back tap out so none of the metal debris in flakes get into the combustion chamber. Also for $30 you can get a borescope attached to your phone and you can look in there to see how many metal flakes actually went into the combustion chamber

[@jacquespoirier9071]

when it is possible, warm the engine to the limit of overheating before trying to remove the sparkplugs, the aluminum of the cylinder head expands moe than the steel on the sparkplug giving a chance to break it loose I always do that and I never had an issue removing a sparkplug on an aluminum head

[@Zionsol777]

Jacques Poirier how do you warm an engine to the limit of overheating? This sounds like a very bad idea for somebody especially someone that doesn't know how to remove a spark plug to begin with

[@hosearobinson9986]

So wat if it was the spark plugs stuck?

[@x-man5056]

Spark plugs live in an environment that is a perfect storm for corrosion. Add to that newer Iridium plugs can last 100k miles or more. It doesn't really matter if the plug goes into Cast Iron or aluminum. Copper anti-seize is a must. The silicon on plug boots is a money and time saver also. Just do it. Torque gently or use a good inch pound Torque Wrench. Spark plugs will not back out because you use anti-seize. Neither will lug nuts. Less experienced mechanics are much more likely to over torque than under torque.

[@nestrac]

A friend of mine owned a Mitsubishi Lancer 1.8 diesel witch had a aluminum health and some very stuck glow plugs.... He was NOT pleased when the time came to replace them...

[@victor7260]

What if this happens when it’s stuck inside the cylinder

[@jeepmanxj]

Actually no, they tell you that because it fucks with the heat range of the spark plug. The plug now doesn't radiate heat out to the head as it was designed so its either going to run hot as hell or too cold. Its super noticeable on turbo cars, as it will cause pinging really fast.

[@mrsemifixit]

Makes sense. So many claims. How do we know the real reason?

[@jeepmanxj]

That is the real reason. It's clear as crystal, you can see the difference clearly on my knock sensor count on my car.

[@g6qwerty]

wow that big pick would be so much easier than long needle nose pliers trying to get spark plug boot's out.

[@chriskeiley5343]

brian, it really appears that this cyl could be collecting water/ moisture. maybe even poor plug boot sealing and humidity condensation. any how great tip on fixing the condition (also good to see bosch plugs removed, junk!)

[@lucientaar2069]

Have 1.6 (4) cylinder hyundai accent 145k miles, changed the plugs at 20k miles of driving all plugs came out except for one it might be seized whats the easiest way to remove it without messing up the cylinder head. Thanks.

[@markallen8528]

Thanks for the video Brian. Have you had the pleasure of changing the the plugs on a 100,000 mile first tune up f150 5.4 ? I immediately aged ten years the day I did one.

[@shepherd3085]

I know the feeling lol the spark plugs are a pain to work with

[@briansmobile1]

That threaded section is a LONG ROAD!

[@mikereiffin4618]

Insulator grease on and insulating direct to plug spark..? Will it be recogonized by computer as short..?

[@joescheller6680]

hey in know how to prevent i want to know what you do to get them out

[@danielmunoz1236]

I ran in to a similar problem a while back with a 93 Camry wit 306,000 miles lol It made me wonder if they ever got changed

[@mikejmoniz]

I've read/watched another well respected KZbin mechanic, Eric the car guy, actually swear against the anti seize on spark plugs because it melts and effectively fuses/welds to the cylinder head, making the plugs even more difficult to remove. what's your take?

[@Eastahtata]

Michael Moniz I've experienced this personally several years ago so I don't use anti seize anymore. Plugs were hard to remove after about 50k miles of having anti seize on them.

[@wendylucas9628]

***HELP ME***😤😂😤 So my socket is stuck down on top of the spark plug..still in the engine! How can i get in out.

[@michaelhood6340]

hi. saw you're into plates. which ones do you have from Canada?

[@AaronsAutomotive]

one thing i want to add to this Brian, with using anti seize on spark plugs, (from my own experience) i run them down by hand with just the socket and extension, than when as tight as i can by hand ill put a ratchet onto it, chole up byr the head of the ratchet and give it only a 1/4 turn than be done, never really followed torque specs on them but have never had a spark plug snap or strip out on me before from doing that.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

Same. When my arms are either feeling too strong or too weak, then I grab a torque tool to take the human factor out of it.

[@chriskeiley5343]

1/4 turn is not recommended with plus that have a crush sleeve at the base and may not seal. in fact on the early 5.4l ford engines ( the ones which love to shoot plugs out) it is recommended to over torque the plugs to prevent such a thing happening.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

chris keiley Didn't they add 5-7 ft lbs to the spec?

[@chriskeiley5343]

that sounds about right, but don't quote me on specifics.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

chris keiley I'm wondering if they needed more torque due to engine vibrations working them loose.

[@sonnyastrom3024]

Copper eats aluminium that's why u don't use it on spark plugs in an aluminium heads. Get some aluminium based anti-sieze if u must use it.

[@jonasfunride]

sonny Åström håller med

[@chaytonruijsenaars3971]

does it really?, never knew that

[@Cragified]

In Galvanic corrosion of copper and aluminum, aluminum is the anode and thus corroded. Nickel is anode in nickle vs. copper hence the plating on many sparkplugs being nickle alloy. So while the copper anti-seize would likely keep the plug from getting stuck it's more because it's corroding the threads and thus reducing them then due to lubrication. Also I wouldn't recommend even using aluminum anti-seize because it's usually a blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite if you read the fine print.

[@joescheller6680]

i guess i missed iot so after you cant get the old plug out thats what i was waiting to hear. first time deal so i dont have aclue what was done the last time diferent owner

[@wyattoneable]

Love the tips and bonus footage. Once your collection of plates is complete, may I suggest another give away for the remaining plates? I'd love a chance to complete my collection.

[@RUBICON7313]

I have a couple of questions about Subaru's. Possible to get an opinion?

[@forevercomputing]

Never used it on any spark plugs. Never had a problem. Unless they plug has been in there for years and the engine never been used or just sat.

[@12vgs8606]

Great video! Really appreciated the explanation for why spark plug manufacturers say no anti-seize. Both the tricks showing how to remove the stuck plug boot and chasing the threads was very helpful. Were they NGK plugs that got rusted down there or some other brand?

[@sweetwilliam49]

Now if you can figure how to strap the flying machine to the bike... got two of those flying contraptions in my garage. Nice video! Experience is unbeatable

[@OOTD_]

I'm having trouble fishing it out.

[@chrissmart912]

Did not tell me anything how to get the plug that is stuck out.. great info on how to keep it from happening but that's not what I watched video for.

[@joescheller6680]

exactly my case also

[@helidodge]

Great tips on the spark plugs. In the bbfate i think i remember "Nut N Fancy" riding that trail with his son a couple of years ago.. Beautiful place.

[@Zionsol777]

Looks like you or someone else did use antiseize on the plugs before, that's why all the rust and corrosion was there.....the copper antiseize you just used is WRONG. Also, removing the boot twist it slightly back and forth a couple of times before pulling it. To remove it if it's stuck to the spark plug, you can try pushing the boot down on to the spark plug further to separate it from the plug without tearing it.

[@bubbacrabb]

I'm glad you got that oregon plate from Chris. I ended up having to help family last weekend and I just found that plate last night in a box to send you. it's the same design so I guess you won't need it. sorry I didn't get it out in time. hope you get a big buck or bull this year bro.

[@Fellafoe69]

I just super glue the spark plug socket rubber into the socket.

[@jasonputtock4428]

Hey brother. Could you give any tips on Bank angel sensors.???? Testing, fault findings and more to the point, bypassing... thank you...

[@maxmoq8423]

Hey Brian, do you have a Quebec, Canada plate? If not, I don't mind sending you one!

[@unknownRC]

Hey Brain, instead of using silicon paste can we substitute it with dielectric grease?

[@briansmobile1]

Absolutely. Same effect.

[@homerunhita12]

FINALLY got the plate in the mail. Hahah happy to see it arrive

[@MuddyDrivewayProductions]

Dang, you are so lucky to have an old plate from Hawaii! Awesome tips as always! Aloha and take care

[@Finnigan9]

It looks like you ground down the end of that spark plug socket...? Thanks for doing ur vids, ur awesome.

[@briansmobile1]

Sharp eye there Finnigan9, that was from another project on a motorcycle. It made another job possible, but hasn't adversely affected any others. You're most welcome. Doing this makes me happy when it makes a difference to others.

[@devinsmith4151]

You get those dirty spark plug bores. My method is to run a few passes on a new plug with a few douses of brake cleaner on the new plug's threads. 3 pass per hole should do it and there shouldn't be any thread damage. After the 3rd pass, the plug should go in fairly smoothly, torque it down. Good plugs = no need anti-seize, infact, no manufacturer recommends it anyway. All they use from the factory is a light grease of Talc on the boots. If your using proper Platinium NGK or Bosch plugs, I prefer NGK, the threads are of better finish. Should come out fairly easily. Once every two years the plug change will make removal very easy. Especially on forced induction engines, they have reduced service interval for plugs anyway.

[@jolenepelgrin2114]

8

[@cleonbonner9253]

I did not try it yet... But i bet it will work..Great idea...Makes lot of sense.. I will kinda sharpen the end of my tube, so that should help even more..Thanks.. Great upload.

[@AGuysGarage]

Hey Brian, do you have a Kentucky and Indiana Plate? I have a KY one, and will be switching my indiana one to kentucky soonish. so if you need them, i could probably hook u up.

[@ZeroGHome24]

To anyone that's stuck with seized plugs on a 2009 Ford focus. Spray some wurth rost off ice down the spark plug well whilst engine is cooling down from hot and leave to sit over night. If your a fairly good mechanic get the cheap plug socket the one without the elbow and a 1/2 bar with a small 3/8 extension and adaptor and use your knowledge to know not to over do the strength as you'll be in tears if the cunt snaps! I've also used break fluid back in the day too👍 If your a novice DO NOT try to do these kind of plugs!!! EVER!!!

[@sgwhite4]

Excellent my friend... Thanks for future dealing with the plugs.

[@inmotion81]

down hill mountain biking my favorite

[@f4c107th]

Almost as good as hitting the Honey Comb cereal license plate jackpot!

[@PinkBuddhaFloyd]

Excellent video and information. Are you from the Arkansas area? Take care briansmobile1

[@briansmobile1]

My grandparents used to live on Beaver Reservoir by Fayetteville/Rodgers area. I used to chase all kinds of lizards, snakes, fish, etc. up and down the banks and woods between the house and the lake.

[@CoffeyKingVlogs]

I just take a socket and a hammer, bang it a couple of times, tighten, loosen and repeat it a couple of times

[@SirThunderPants]

I learn things from you that I NEVER heard of. Thanks!

[@SteveRobReviews]

Good tips Brian 👍👍

[@jw4620]

If you have anything on the early 5.4 ford plugs up through '08 I'm sure there are guys who'd appreciate it. Those are nasty.

[@bryandees8242]

Thanks! That really helped me solve my problem.

[@SushiPac]

Scores on the plates

[@floracarpenter6400]

Awesome video! Thanks so much! From Tucson Arizona! 🌵💟

[@khenpaulw311]

Foot down in turns while mountain biking... dirt biking habit. Not necessarily unnecessary, but Bob (Redford) wouldn't approve.

[@moneyicecold]

Forever and forever in Tooele!

[@jifi-0178]

Many bugs and dust particles were ingested in the making of this video.

[@declyn8]

THANK YOU BRIAN !!!!!PS. GO HAVE FUN

[@dokesz530]

changing plugs on motorbikes are much easier.why cars are so difficult?

[@hanskinslo326]

Awesome tips.

[@traeharris8753]

Thank you i see it on my spark plug yr awesome

[@transdetendal]

narley curse on that downhill !! id be happy not trying it, haha and here we all learn in school to use lube!! specially on the plug!!

[@Prosecute-fauci]

love your videos brian

[@PhilBourgeois]

Great tips

[@dvvelldoom5239]

literally just happend to me luckily this vieo exists 🙏

[@dvvelldoom5239]

i used super glue at the end of the socket to grab the bushing stuck on the spark plug worked perfect.

[@gylanunderhill]

nice top tip, Brian

[@lordmcted]

thanks brian :D

[@bigkev6784]

Dude great tip cutting the plug. I can't believe that I never thought of that... So in return send me the address and I'll send u one of my Ohio plates with my military BRONZE SATR on it....

[@BlazingLightSword]

He uses a PO box, it's in the description. briansmobile1 P.O. Box 282 Cedar Valley, UT 84013

[@diautorepair]

nice second Gen man!! I woulda kept it ahah

[@briansmobile1]

I really wanted to, but I had to get the new truck for business reasons & couldn't afford both.

[@diautorepair]

+briansmobile1 yeah I hear ya man , that new Cummins is nasty tho I like what u have done to it, sold me on the bed slide thing and bed cover

[@robroberts1473]

double bfate yay!

[@3818919wride]

I dig the Sundance content. 👍🏼

[@jasonbubley9427]

nice

[@jon-uc8th]

Wow you need to describe your video more. Nothing to do with getting a spark plug OUT.