Why Submersible Well Pumps NEED Check Valves

[@nasrahmed6236]

Thanks a lot our engineer. You are great

[@VitorMadeira]

Thank you. I'm a beginner in this subject so this info was precious. Greetings from Portugal.

[@biztrak4436]

Most of the wells in our area of Whatcom County are shallow well about 25 feet deep because of a thick clay base at that level. My understanding is that there are fresh water aquifers at 100 feet but salt water infiltration is sometimes possible. I installed a 3/4 HP Red Jacket 4x29 in a 12-inch diameter PVC casing (no longer legal) 25 foot drilled well. 3 wire, green ground pump is 230 with a separate control box, start and run capacitors with a relay. No check valves, I didn't know they existed back then. It has a very interesting 11 3/4 inches diameter torque adapter (came with the pump) installed to keep the pump from moving when it is running. The adapter flange, what I call it, is notched for removal past the pitless adapter when pump is pulled. That was 27 years ago. Not once in that time did it ever fail to pump water. The system I am putting in now is virtually the same, I am using the same 1/2 of the pitless adapter with a new O ring and the same torque adapter flange. My pump, Red Lion, has a built-in check valve. A 25 foot well here in the winter has about 10-15 feet/summer drops to about 5-8 feet of water. So basically my lift is about 20 feet and horizontal 150 to my house. Should I still install a second check valve in my shallow well? If so how close to the pump should it be?

[@mava5634]

very well explained, helps a lot those who want to learn

[@RCworstwater]

Thanks for watching!

[@yaghoob2000]

Very informative, thanks a lot for doing this video.

[@robtheisen5844]

Add another one for redundancy. I love it!

[@cjeccher8128]

In my part of the woods we use check valves built into the pump because we need water to flow back out to the hydrants in the yard

[@Don-uz9om]

My pump seems like it cavitates. Have you ever heard of a bad check valve causing a pump to not put out enough pressure and volume after it initially turns on but when you cycle the power it works fine?

[@tomschmidt381]

Interesting discussion about check valves. I'm a well owner not a pump installer. The need for one at the pump is obvious to prevent water from draining back. In many installations I've seen a second check valve at the pressure tank. This is the first time I've heard about using multiple check valves in the riser pipe. I'm confused about the need to use multiple check valves, since water is virtually incomprehensible that would seem to make water hammer issues worse, or even create a partial vacuum. As far as I know we only have a single check valve installed at the pump. None in the riser and certainly none at the pressure tank. In our case the pump is at 220 feet and static water level is only about 20 feet below grade, not sure if that has an effect.

[@RCworstwater]

Check valves are only rated to hold a certain weight. When you don't use enough check valves in your pipe they are much more likely to break under the weight.

[@tomschmidt381]

@@RCworstwater Thanks for the response. I never thought of that, several hundred feet of water is a lot of pressure. At least in our case that is not a problem because static water level is so high.

[@tomstegeman4344]

@Kevin Waddell hey Kevin this sounds weird but iv been stalking your comments as well as the CSV valve guy's comments. Because I am seriously considering getting a CSV but I'm seeing dudes like you keep popping up on youtube and plumbing forums making GOOD cases against CSVs.. Iv talked to the CSV guy who makes good points about them, but I was hoping you could give me a second opinion (cuz CSV dude just wants to sell his product)...so as far as I know I only have 2 check valves. One ontop of my 600 ft deep submersible pump, and one directly before my pressure switch/pressure bladder tank in my celler. I am wanting to Tee off the main line BEFORE the pressure switch/tank to run 300+ ft line of poly pipe out to my yard hydrants. I do not get any water pressure to the Tee yet, because there is that pesky check valve right after the Tee but just before the pressure tank.. Iv been told that removing the check valve there will allow flow to my Tee/yard hydrant, but theres 2 problems: 1) I am not sure if this is safe, because the tank check valve is said to prevent water hammer, but CSV guy has me convinced that water hammer is caused by the pump cycling and hitting the check valve. 2) in any case, I will be causing a more rapid cycling of the pump if my Tee/hydrant is irrigating an orchard and causing the pressure tank (beyond the tee) to fill up over and over again. I have been told putting a CSV before the Tee and removing the check valve at the mount of the tank will solve this potential rapid cycling and protect my pump and mitigate water hammer..............but I keep hearing people like you and other folks say the CSV is bullshit. Both sides make EXCLELENT cases. I don't know who to believe.

[@tomstegeman4344]

@Kevin Waddell thanks for the info! So it sounds like if I tee off to hydrant before the pressure switch/tank, then I can remove the check valve that's right before the pressure switch/tank, and move it so that it's right BEFORE my tee. Thar way, I dont need to move my Tee to be after the pressure tank.

[@aaronnewberry7000]

@@tomstegeman4344 9

[@joshjensen101]

Say your drop pipe is 300' would putting a check valve just off the pump, one at 150' and one before the pitman be a good idea? Would that be overkill? If so, where do you recommend putting them? Could it harm the system? Is there a delta pressure across check valves? Could the check valves support that weight? Thanks for all the info! Your videos have been a great help already. I am a new to me well owner and have recently started having problems and I am most likely going to have to replace the pump.

[@livingthedream29]

Recently had a new well pump installed. They installed a new check valve above the pump which is only about 160-170’ deep and I also had the well tank replaced. There’ is also a check valve at the tank. Whenever the pump kicks on there is horrible water hammering for the 1st second it runs. What could be the problem?

[@MabuzaEugene]

Oil filled sub motors vs water filled..... Can you take us through.... Do we need to change it periodical ..... Do we need to service our pumps

[@wagonerkl]

My pump hangs at just 50 feet; never used a check-valve and it worked fine for 10 years. I recently had to change out the old pump. The new pump says it has an integral check-valve BUT, once the tank is full, the pressure slowly drops off with out any water use. Could it be leaking past the pumps check-valve and going back down the well?

[@RCworstwater]

It is certainly a possibility, but one thing for sure is that you have a leak somewhere. A check valve should always be installed on the pump discharge or 1st stick of pipe after - regardless of if the pump has one or not. It's cheap insurance.

[@GermanShepherd1983]

How do you attach a brass check valve to a stainless steel pump? Use plastic fittings?

[@nelsonsierra9381]

After my pump shut off ,it makes funny quite little noise and then water coming out from the well,from the elbow,please tell me what can be the problem?

[@85mferguson]

If we are winterizing a summer cabin that will have no heat in the winter do we need to drain the plastic well pipe coming into the basement and the first check valve just prior to the pressure tank? Or can we drain everything after the first check valve in the basement and be fine?

[@dingdong7481]

Thank you for this clip.

[@RCworstwater]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@Reklaw-]

It the rule of thumb for a CV each 200 ft for the total length of the column piping from pump setting elevation to the surface, or is it from pump setting elevation to the top of the water table?

[@lazybiker234]

I have a few check valves on my well (well pump is at 180' in a 300' well). Does it matter if check valves sre installed horizontally or vertically? Also, what brand and design of check valve are best to not bleed off?

[@whspioneer89]

The check valve on our submersible pump failed. It’s a 55 foot deep well. I installed a check valve in the piping outside of the well but about 5’ next to it and about 8’ deep. So the check valve is about 47’ from the well depth. This was an emergency fix. Hoping to get the well pump pulled and replaced. Just that they charge more than I can afford right now

[@karafarm3023]

how do you do it so that when you lift the pump it's not heavy because the water is trapped by the check valve in the pipe?

[@danvisan7017]

Hi. Maybe you can help me with an opinion. I have a pump placed at 70m (229ft). The issue is that i am doing all the maintenance myself. This means that the soul existence of a check valve will make my life a nightmare in terms of pulling the pump out of the well. The water inside the pipe weights too much. I automated the pump so it works for like 30 minutes and then stops for an hour or so (so the motor will never start while the water would flows back). I am considering making some drills inside the check valve that's already inside the pump so the water will be able to flow back and i'll be able to remove the pump if needed. What do you think about it?

[@Sean-Aviation]

Water pressure is good in my house until it's all of a sudden drops to 0 for like 10 secs then resume. irregular.... Could that be a bad check valve? does it mean i need to pull out the whole pump or can i install one at the very top of the pump pipes?

[@ItsKeananT]

What about for a drainback system?

[@a7mad990]

Thank you so much for the info

[@RCworstwater]

Our pleasure!

[@cppresley7015]

How many check valve do I need at 300ft deep and we're do I put them in at thanks god bless

[@RCworstwater]

You need to put one at the pump/first stick of pipe after the pump and one every 100 ft above that.

[@theshwang]

I'm installing a submersible pump at 100 ft. Can I install a check valve to the top of the pump and then my poly to it

[@RCworstwater]

Yes

[@Ugot2BkddnMe]

Hi Chris, I replaced my well pump last year with a Franklin submersible and, as I recall, it had a built-in check valve. (The well pump is sitting ~75' down) I have an issue with air getting into the hot water line and was wondering if a failed checkvalue could be a possible reason. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. (SW Florida)

[@RCworstwater]

If air is only getting into the hot water lines you should check the hot water heater connections and piping.

[@stineaac1]

Our well pump has two issues. One is a loud banging noise around the check valve when the pump turns off. It almost always happens but occasionally the pump stops with no noise? The other is that the pump breaker is tripping. It has happened twice now and we don’t know why. Any advice please? Thank you!!

[@RCworstwater]

Please give us a call for help troubleshooting: 855.329.4519

[@stineaac1]

Thanks, just a follow up. The motor stopped last night. I had the well guys here and they started removing the pipes from the submersible pump when they located wires that were frayed about 150 feet down. That was the problem. They put the wires back together, lowered the pipes back in the ground, and the pump started up again. I will keep your info though thanks for your videos

[@RCworstwater]

Happy to hear you're back up and running! Thanks for the comments :)

[@olaosebikanashaolu757]

That is good

[@davidkelbaugh6869]

So you would add an extra check valve on to the end of a new Goulds 7G before installing it in a 120' well?

[@RCworstwater]

Yes! We always add a check valve right at the pump for redundancy. We've found that the check valves inside the pump end fail much more quickly that an inline valve, so better to be safe than sorry.

[@carltonmiller8086]

R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. how close to the pump can you actually get? Would 10 feet above the pump be too close?

[@michaelforhan9427]

Glad my well is only 56 feet deep. Eastern Canada. Shit load of iron and manganese. Still going to use this info though. Line from well to house is clogged.

[@jayetzell8428]

@Kevin Waddell M in.

[@Sean-Aviation]

are those check valve realy lead free? i see some warning stickers on the "lead free" check valves

[@RCworstwater]

Yes, the valves we carry are "lead-free"

[@gaewing]

Picture link does not work.

[@RCworstwater]

Thanks for the heads up! Looks like the moved the page. Should be working now: franklinengineered.com/media/80336/m1615_sub_motor_field_reference_manual.pdf

[@ralf4k]

I don’t want my shaft to break!

[@NoNo-zf6tz]

1:31 A GHOST ...

[@RCworstwater]

😂😂

[@Jaykocenko]

Spindle

[@Jaykocenko]

Thrust barrings and weight of colum ...what he is stalking about rarely happens

[@benjaminlhargrave]

FALSE. The pump isn't sealed, so without a check valve, all the water will just drain right out of your house, past the pump, right back into the well, causing the pump to have to turn back on again.

[@benjaminlhargrave]

That's the real reason you need a check valve. Everything else is just added potential safety aspects.

[@Jaykocenko]

Lol smh..please just call me or someone in your area