Why We Love This Pencil｜Mitsubishi Uni MH-500

[@sunshinesolace3540]

I found one of these pencils just lying on the beach lol.

[@crepeandweirddough]

me too i found a parker pencil on the beach

[@sena8964]

LMAOO that's nice for y'all.

[@mxsochist]

Sunshine Solace holy sheet

[@Peannlui]

A plein-air artist must have lost it. :'(

[@juxtaposedlime2734]

Oh dang how lucky! Let me go beach scavenging

[@hukes]

When I was studying engineering I used to glue sandpaper to the heel of my shoe just to sharpen lead.

[@deuterium4.028]

haha I love this

[@ashl.9841]

that’s engineering!

[@DrawingTechnical]

It's a clutch pencil, because of how it grips the lead. These pencils are used in mechanical engineer drawings or architectural drafting for exactly the reasons you've shown; they're strong and remain sharp for long. I have 2H leads which are quite strong and the recommended lead hardness for drafting. There's some leads which are so strong that when sharpened, they will cut the paper like a scalpel.

[@Skeptical_Numbat]

Excellent & informative video. The *H* to *B* standard refers to the proportions of *Graphite* to other structural agents in the composite "lead". *HB* is the most common lead pencil in use worldwide, simply because it has a fairly even balance of both components. *H, H2, H3, H4,* etc. contain significantly less *Graphite* , making them both harder & fainter. *B1, B2, B3, B4,* etc. have increasing proportions of *Graphite* , making them both darker & softer. *H* grades are used predominantly in technical & printing drawing - where a precise line is extremely important, whilst *B* grades are used mostly in classical drawing - where nuances in tone are most valued. Note that as they are much harder than the equivalent *B* grades, higher *H* grades tend to cut deeper into the paper (even punching through if you're not careful), meaning that you understandably need to use significantly less pressure when drawing (though this will exacerbate their faintness), whereas the softer *B* grades have a greater tendency to smear & blur edges. Also high *B* grades will break points at at the slightest pressure, making them more useful at shallower angles to the paper (& excruciatingly more frustrating to sharpen - especially the standard wood type). I commonly use three different mechanical pencils with *2mm* leads: a *2H* , a *HB* & a *2B.* My purpose is to sketch out ideas that I'll scan/photo into my computer & use to develop *_Vector Line Art_* as the underlying structure of a *_Digital Artwork._* In the past, I would have used *2B* - *8B* grades to create artwork sketches (usually in collaboration with various *Charcoals* & *Comte* crayons), though these days, I'd probably use straight *Graphites* without wood (lacking wood contaminants means that all sharpening dusts can be stored for other uses. Most likely to be mixed with oil, water or natural resins for application with a brush for effects.)

[@juicebird3502]

Holy crap thanks for the info

[@hakanlundberg]

Further F stands for “fine” (B = black, H = hard). And is supposedly a leas produced for drawing fine lines. Although if manufacturers really research a special lead compound or just add it as another grade between HB and H I can’t tell. It’s seems that most manufacturers do the latter. To note is however that there isn’t any actual standard to how hard or soft a lead of a certain grade must be. So it differers between brands. Also other characteristics than the hardness differs between brands. E.g. that blackness vs. softness-hardness doesn’t necessarily go hand in hand. How much the lead smears. Break resistance. Etc. The recipes for the lead compounds are likely closed kept secrets, but today you can not only use the traditional graphite but also possibly add carbon (they differ in molecular structure) and other black pigments. Then the traditional clays and waxes, but now also synthetically produced resins and polymers. On the wooden pencil side, there seams to be a trend of producing pencils that has the same feel and workability as graphite pencils, but lacks the metallic shine, and with grades that can go even blacker. If that trend ever reaches the clutch-pencil realm we’ll have to see. If people were still using these pencils for mechanical and architectural drafting-and not those silly computers-I’d guess getting rid of the shine and getting even darker lines would have been welcomed.

[@guitarchitectural]

Yesssss, I'm an architect and used one of these in architecture school. I used Staedtler clutch lead holder and they have a small sharpener built into the end cap. They also sell a great little rotating grinder-sharpener that gives you great graphite powder for shading with (but its only for desk use, it comes apart easily in a pencil case). When drafting you actually roll the pencil as you "pull" the line along the ruler and it keeps your tip sharp for a long time! I always kept fine (800+) sandpaper on my desk for touching up and forming the tip between sharpenings. The biggest danger with them is if you drop them, it typically shatters the lead!

[@huey1910]

Were you able to use off brand leads with them? Or only the Mitsubishi official leads?

[@nidhishshivashankar4885]

@@huey1910 you can use any lead which will fit the holder

[@JayAndNightASMR]

I love mechanical pencils, I always got told off in art class for using them even though I'd be making better lines than everyone else. They've better in every way but snobs want everything done with regular ones

[@MrMalcovic]

How about shading, though?

[@RayRahu]

@@MrMalcovic Shading might be challenging if it's a particularly large area; if you're working on an average sized sketch pad, it's just a matter of finesse. I've never had a problem rendering gradients with mechanicals.

[@emilkoch4098]

@ Jay and Night ASMR, if you draw, and produce better quality artwork with a mechanical pencil than you do with regular high end pencils, keep doing what your doing. It should be about what works for you, and what really helps you draw well.

[@RayRahu]

@@wr245g9 For manga, pencils are typically used for layouts; I'd recommend getting into ink -- you could try out a dip pen set [10USD] and 32oz India Ink [30USD], or maybe Sakura Pigmas/Zebra Brush Pens [20USD - 40USD], etc. Sakura/Zebra pens are expensive and will run out way faster than nibs/brush and bottled ink -- also, pay attention to paperweights; you'll need higher quality paper to deal with ink bleed and nib scratching. You might also need whiteout and/or white gel pen for correction/highlights.

[@greekveteran2715]

@@MrMalcovic You can shade eith 0.5mm mechanical pencils.It's a sipmple technique and it worls just fine. as it works with any kind of pencil. It's just the way you use the pencil that differs and of course, it can take longer time, to shade and area with a 0.5mm lead,however the result, is the same! The technique goes like this: You use a pinch grip on the pencil and do the motion that the windshield wipers do, to clean off the water when it reains while you drive your car! You don't apply any pressure, in most cases, the weight of the pencil is enough, however, you have to try it foryourself, to find out those details and how it will work for you. It took me a couple of minutes,the first time but it worked like a charm!!

[@aceion6110]

So you inherited a Japanese animator mechanical pencil, as someone who is trying to become an animator and an animation nerd I'm so jealous.....

[@Peannlui]

Leadholders are a dime a dozen, if you search 2mm leadholder you can get a lot of choice!

[@dungofrungus7659]

I'd rather inherent a Japanese animator as a mentor than some worthless 2 dollar pencil I can buy on amazon.

[@GreySeashell-j3m]

@@dungofrungus7659 inherit a person 💀

[@cazkiwinz4300]

*envious

[@reginaldforthright805]

@@dungofrungus7659 it’s $7

[@tinlidtoo6615]

Very handy having the lead hardness on the outside. I've bought different brands of mechanical pencils to differentiate between the lead types I use. HB 2B and 4b

[@xcforlife77]

Lol, this is the first time I've heard someone just casually refer to a Blackwing as "just a standard pencil".

[@bugrilyus]

They are nothing like its predecessor

[@hakanlundberg]

The modern ones are just whatever pencils really. They just have the trade mark and are producing a pencil that looks the same. The original Blackwing-I still have one remaining-was quite in a different league. The lead compound was different. But it was unfortunate put out of production.

[@lippa2105]

You're an artist and you have a favorite product brand - as an artist and writer myself I 110% understand that. You love the Mitsubishi, personally, I love the Staedtler. It's very comfortable, perfectly weighted, and has a built in sharpener.

[@mrlion9404]

I bought a mechanical pencil that looks and works just like a wooden lead pencil..it is made of plastic the leads are same as a wooden pencil . But inplace of the eraser it has a tiny lead sharpener. Which is so cool .. it was for less than a dollar. 0.77

[@E-M-T]

I've been using a Staedtler one for about 3 years now and I love it, I've always used regular wooden pencils my whole life just because of preference, mainly the thickness of the lead so when I saw they made 2mm lead holders like this I decided to try it, I went with the HB hardness for that reason at the time just to mimic how a regular #2 pencil felt, I never really considered the other options. Im def gonna pick this up with the firm lead and see how I like it, been a while since I've been excited over a pencil haha. Also the HB (at least in the Staedtler) is about as prone to snapping when over sharpened as a regular pencil as he demonstrated in the video so that is certainly something to think about when choosing lead firmness.

[@falcon048]

Whereas the tool doesn't make you a better artist, a good tool can make the work easier and help you work longer. I have bought nearly a hundred different 2mm mechanical pencils. I also searched the best lead. I finally came across the unassuming Caran D'ache Swiss made 2mm and 3mm mechanical pencil. The weight is perfect for me. The ergonomics looks so simplistic but it so effective. They have builtin sharpeners. The lead is extremely smooth across the paper and creating shade is easy and effective.

[@JustSomeGuy]

I like using 2mm lead holders, but I find I still need to sharpen it a lot. I use it to do finished line art, and I'm guessing the 4B lead is so soft that it won't keep a point. I tried 2B though, and had the same issue. I haven't tried it with F or 2H lead yet.

[@gilfer28]

H, H2, H4 are harder you'll get cleaner lines.

[@bennyvermeulen7255]

You have a great channel too, that I sometimes watch. I recognised the logo.

[@alvaromontesdeoca7053]

I recommend using F and H they are best for sketching

[@JustSomeGuy]

@@alvaromontesdeoca7053 I use F for sketching, but with a regular mechanical pencil.

[@alvaromontesdeoca7053]

@@JustSomeGuy me too in .3 ,.5,.9

[@greekveteran2715]

The 2nd hole on that lead sharpener, is for 3.15mm leads not for providing a different tip! lol Only the 1st hole is meant for 2mm...

[@NihongoGamer]

lol ohhh! Thanks for the info!

[@XacurRPG]

I love those led holders. Staedtler make those too, but they don't have the F hardness led. The holders are all the same for any hardness, some have a ring that have all the hardness levels and a pointer, so you turn the ring to mark what hardness you are using. Also, when you buy the replacement pack, the box comes with a pencil top of one specific color, so you can use that top in any pencil to color code it. I think that is better than buying pencils that already have a hardness written on them. Definitely you can use your leds so carefree because it's an F, but you should be more careful with a 4b, those could break when you are sharpening if you are not careful. But they are still great. Led holders are expensive at first but after a few months of using them, you find it's worth it. Since most of the wood drawing pencils are wasted while sharpening, specially if you want a long point, the replacements of the mechanical pencils last way way more. I've found more convenient to sharp the mechanical pencils with a very fine sandpaper, instead of a led sharpener. You have more control on how sharp you want your point, you can even sharp just one side of it, or dull the point if it's too sharp, etc.

[@janawatercolor]

Nice.I am a watercolor artist and use mechanical pencils to draw before painting. This looks like a good option for me. Will give it a try

[@_yuri]

now i have to waste money on it why is japanese stationery items so appealing

[@jojato3924]

You're... A big yikes

[@alvaromontesdeoca7053]

The bigger hole on the regular sharpener is not to make a different shape on the tip of the pencil but actually it is for a thicker pencil.

[@stevenvarner9806]

The same is true for the lead sharpener. The left hand hole is for 2.00 mm graphite and the right hand one is for larger 3.15 mm graphite.

[@jamesaritchie1]

@@stevenvarner9806 I've never even heard of 3.15mm. Where do you find that, and why would you want it? Anyway, that is NOT what the second hole in my sharpener is for.

[@stevenvarner9806]

@@jamesaritchie1 I have the KUM sharpener with the two additional lead pointers, not just the two-step sharpener. Right on the box it says the smaller yellow hole is for 2.00 mm diameter and the red hole is for 3.15 mm diameter lead. Companies like Faber-Castell make the 3.15 mm leads. Amazon sells them for one.

[@chibuikee7482]

Wow his English is so nice.....just wow!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Braindazzled]

These are generally called 'clutch pencils' or 'lead holders.' There were common in graphic arts before the mechanical pencils that use skinny lead (.5, .7, etc.) came to the market, around the 1980s. You can still sometimes find 3mm versions that were more common in the 1950s and earlier. The advantage of these, besides that you have a reliable tool that never gets short or thrown away, is that it can take not only all the grades of graphite, but also carbon and colored leads. I still have a Koh-I-noor brand holder, just like this one, with a nice heft to it, that I got on one of my first jobs, plotting graphs and doing paste up, back in the 80s.

[@reginaldforthright805]

Thanks I hadn’t realized why they went out of style. It’s a shame as they provide much better line quality for drawing

[@mishaerementchouk]

@@reginaldforthright805 they didn’t go out of style, they are just more confined to drawing since thin leads are usually more convenient for writing. For instance, if you want a very soft lead (higher than 4b), you have to look at wide leads and respective holders. They are quite widely available in art stores and departments.

[@reginaldforthright805]

@@mishaerementchouk well in the us they are uncommon and I think mostly used by architects. Art stores have only a limited selection. I had to go to Japan importers or import from Europe myself.

[@mishaerementchouk]

@@reginaldforthright805 I am in the US. It’s been a while since I’ve been to a B&M art store, so I cannot say what’s the current situation there but Blick Art Materials used to carry quite a wide variety off all sorts of mechanical and clutch pencils and supplies for them. Their website seems to be stocked up as well.

[@reginaldforthright805]

@@mishaerementchouk blick is way overpriced with IMO a poor selection especially of leads, you can’t get anything dark. I ordered from jet pens (Mitsubishi) and cult pens (koh I noor, faber castell.) I don’t think any US stores carry the faber castell 3.15 holders and leads which are the darker ones. Cult pens has koh I noor leads up to 8b very cheap.

[@Francis-White]

Great video man it has very nice audio and the way your informing doesn't get boring

[@euerz]

It's called a clutch pencil. I got one in my toolkit in architecture school.

[@jherman6132]

Lucky

[@TheKrazyGoob]

You should just put a little zip lock plastic bag in your case to hold the shavings if you wish to carry wooden pencils.

[@SillyOmega]

Or use Asian hand crank sharpener.

[@richardberryhill718]

I took mechanical drawing in 1965 or so. Clutch pencils were the ONLY available choice and remained so thru at least 1977, when I last worked as a mechanical designer on the drafting boards. Those were the standard for all designers for ages, and I love these oldies, still have all my favorites saved in a toolbox with newer European .7 mm and .3 mm leads as well as several .03 mm and .05 mm pencils. They all have their “best uses” and purposes.

[@spiralingspiral72]

that's because the mechanical pencils we know of today didn't exist until the 1980s, when Pentel added a bit of polymer to the graphite leads to make it possible to make really thin ones.

[@popesuavecitoxii2379]

Lead holders used to be popular before the 90s, they were used especially by architects and engineers. I've been using lead holders for years, they're economical and very versatile. However, I prefer the vintage holders that are made completely out of metal and not plastic. They are evenly balanced as opposed to the plastic one you have. Also: Mitsubishi has its own brand of lead pointer which you should look at. It will give you a longer point.

[@P_Cornejo42]

OMG YES, the balance on mechanical pencils for me is the most important feature, and im in love with lead holders my dad introduce them to me and bought me my first when i was like 13 or so, he still owns the metal one he used since school. they are so sturdy and supports my dropping bad habits. i got a bit of a collector side thanks to that, and tbh its the only thing i use for draft and mechanical drawing in college.

[@randommcranderson5155]

Evenly balanced doesn't make sense. You hold them at the bottom, you want the bottom heavier than the top.

[@popesuavecitoxii2379]

@@randommcranderson5155 Metal leadholders are made of one material and thus are uniformly weighted. No side is heavier than the other (evenly balanced). Maybe YOU prefer to have a pencil that has one side weighted heavier than the other, but I and others do not. Have a nice day!

[@GenWivern2]

@@randommcranderson5155 Actually, that's an interesting discussion point, given that these were originally intended as technical drawing tools. Used as such they are run against set squares and templates, and held perpendicular to the paper or film, so some might prefer the extra mass at the business end. Typically they'd be held at the top by those benighted souls who prefer a conical point, the easier to rotate them, but enlightened folk who sharpen to a chisel edge can hold it where they please. Myself ... not bothered either way, frankly, but I do tend to hold them quite high up, making a nonsense of the knurling (which is outstanding on the Mitsubishi, by the way). None of this makes the blindest bit of difference if you're using it at an angle for general drawing purposes, but point of information and all that. ;-)

[@reginaldforthright805]

@@popesuavecitoxii2379 he’s right it’s much better to have the weight at the tip and all metal is too heavy and impairs dexterity

[@MillywiggZ]

Koh-i-nor brand mechanical pencils are a cheaper alternative. But they have a sharpener built into the top button.

[@thanatos454]

Are they cheaper? The Uni is typically the less expensive option from what I've seen. Where are you shopping? legit question

[@anapalma2906]

Yes, Staedtler's mechanical pencil (or clutch pencil) also has a sharpener at the top. I use mine every day.

[@moonkafu2157]

@@anapalma2906 Oh my goodness, I've been using it for years and never realized that the hole in the top was a sharpener, thank you. Seriously.

[@anapalma2906]

@@moonkafu2157 It's a pleasure!!!!

[@reginaldforthright805]

Unis are much better although I do like koh I noor leads since they go a lot darker

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

I use Steadtler 750's and typically use 2H for light outlining, HB for general and 2B or softer for shading. It all depends on how black I need to go.

[@sparkselot4092]

I'm not an activist or anything, but I like lead holders more than pencils because they're non-disposable. I have my one pencil, and never have to change or manage some small stub of a pencil. I use pencils mostly for carpentry and drafting rough designs. I don't really do any ultra detailed stuff, just personal projects. When I do draft detail, I use .5 mechanical pencils.

[@MybeautifulandamazingPrincess]

Mechanical pencils

[@marcianoacuerda]

As crazy as it may sound. There are stub holders. Japanese stationary is at another level.

[@AlexiLaiho227]

doki doki! i have two pencils that i use for two different purposes, but both of them are german! i have a kaweco sketch-up 5.6mm lead holder--super chunky lines, it's a super duper beefy and short pencil that fits well into a pencil case, and it has a graphite sharpener built into the cap. this one is wonderful for shading and drawing super rough outlines. i also have a rotring 800 0.5mm lead holder--basically a technical pencil used for things like sketching out blueprints, it's got a 0.5mm point and a super long, retractable needle tip, so i never have to worry about sharpening that one for a super crisp point. it's the best one to use with a ruler if i'm ever drawing things with a lot of straight edges.

[@halibut1249]

HB & F s/b about the same in color value. If you draw and need diff values, you could buy assorted vals. of graphite (e.g., 6H, 4H, H, B, 2B, etc) and swap them out, so long as they're all the same diameter as the graphite your mech. pencil holds (e.g., 2.0 mm).

[@HandleToBeDetermined]

Used these to make part drawings during my College days. Personally, I kinda dislike it. I felt physically exhausted by a single session simply by the weight distribution towards the front. Plus, I had to lug around the Staedtler spinning sharpener which leaked lead powder everywhere. I've switched to Pentel 120 A3DX a while back and I bought a massive case of them so I will always be an arm's reach to them anywhere I go. Haven't looked back since.

[@reginaldforthright805]

Weight at front makes it easier to hold. The ad3x is garbage and doesn’t even come in 2mm

[@hakanlundberg]

There are many brands and models of clutch pencils, some are more front-heavy, some have the weight more centered or even towards the end. Some are also heavier and some are much lighter. Some are longer… some are shorter…. And so on 😊 For precision drawing I use a front heavy lead-holder/pencil (also when using mechanical pencils). When you hold pen quite vertically and want it to put som pressure naturally on the paper. For shading-gripping the pencil more towards the end and holding it more horizontally-a very light and center-balanced one. Then you go softer on your elbow to control the pencil when drawing (don’t use the ankle for controlling the pencil… using the shoulder or the elbow gives you more control when you have learned it). For shading using the softest lead (8B) I use a heavier but center-balanced lead-holder. Because it will put more weight on the paper. You just have to buy a few dozen and try which ones suit your needs. Then you can sell all those who didn’t work for you on e-bay. It’s such a cheap tool relatively how much it is used when you do construction drawings or art. Well…. was used before all this computer nonsense 😊. But your college teachers should have informed you all about this. And have let you tried many different pencils. Since the choice or the drafting tools was/is such a very important factor to the life long ergonomic situation when you work. Also there are other sharpeners that collects the lead dust. Although I have an extra fine grit sandpaper close by so I can continuously sharpen the tip far pointier than any sharpener.

[@LunaBianca1805]

In German there's actually a specific name for those mechanical pencils with those extra thick leads. Those are called Fallminenstift or more specific TK-Fallminenstift, the regular ones with the thin leads are Druckbleistift :) We used both of them on a regular base in university (I studied architecture). BTW, can't tell for other brands, but Faber-Castell definitely offers F grades, too (which I use most often), at least with their technical drawing line of regular pencils, probably with the lead holders, as well. And they also got sharpeners with boxes which are really just slightly larger than that lead sharpener (which I got, too, btw ^^') in their brands school supply line (you know those triangular shaped ones with the ABS dots on the sides). Mine are constantly getting dull at such a fast pace and my pencil case is chronically overstuffed, so I just got one as a replacement :)

[@askialuna7717]

I think the mechanical variant describes the lead holders. in the Fallminenstift the lead is falling out so long on the top is pressure and it's not stopped by the surface under neath. For the other it's one pressing and the lead is a consistent size coming out and for a longer tip some more pressings are needed not a longer waiting time.

[@Stroggoii]

@@askialuna7717 We call the mechanisms incremental and drop clutch. There's drop clutch mechanical pencils like the Montblanc Meisterstuck, and incremental clutch lead holders like the Rotring Rapid Pro. People who agree that both kinds are mechanical pencils that hold lead, distinguish between the lead sizes calling the 0.2-0.9 range sharp pencils and the 1.4-5.6 range drafting pencils. Which is also beatable by semantics since both can be used to draft, and both can be sharpened.

[@mech2159]

How about that lightbox with peg strip?

[@donbelisario8811]

Thanks I was really concerned about tolerances implied with that thing of the color coding and because once are expensive than other, thanks for clarifying that

[@palmtoptiger1405]

I once found a graphite pencil and it had the mechanic where if you pressed to hard it goes in well I found one when I was 8 years old and far from the knowledge of them thought it was broken and took out the lead and threw it away in the trash

[@SetuWengiArt]

is this the "Lancer Evo X" in Mitsubishi's pencil Line up?

[@SuperMageo]

When you think Nihongogamer couldn´t get any cooler you find out he has a drawing channel aswell

[@robinrinsmith]

Wow! I might have to get this! I like mechanical pencils for their sharp lines but I always have trouble with them breaking, the leads don’t last long, and I have trouble replacing them. Also, the lead comes out to easily. But this sounds like it could be the pencil for me, just hope it’s not too expensive!

[@jamesaritchie1]

You must be buying bad mechanical pencils, and cheap lead. Anyway, the Mitsubishi is only around eight dollars. Dirt cheap. There are several brands, and most are good. I prefer the Staedtler, which is only three or four dollars more than the Mitsubishi.

[@shepd3]

The sharpener for a lead holder (the clutch pencil itself) is called a lead pointer. :)

[@emilkoch4098]

I love the MH500, I have 2 of these. I highly recommend it for detailing, in addition for quality artwork. The MH500 is one of my favorite mechanical pencils. It’s pricy, but totally worth it!!! Japan surprisingly sells really good art materials that you just can’t find here in the States.

[@reginaldforthright805]

They’re like 7$

[@Peannlui]

I've two Koh-I-Noor 2mm leadholders (with red and blue leads), a Staedtler leadholder for regular grades, and a big 5.6mm for broader lines and shading. They're so so handy when kept sharp and refilled!

[@greekveteran2715]

The 5.6 mm lead holders,when sharpened can provide a tip that can do all the jobs from super fine detail 0.2mm up to more than 5.6mm when you use the side for shading!! Kohinoor 5340 is by far my favorite sketching pencil for that and also other reasons!! Kohinoor also makes the best Sanguine and Dark Sepia in 5.6mm.Which means its a must pencil for classic sketching and techniques like the Old masters used!

[@E-M-T]

Pencil case is Derwent pocket pencil wrap

[@hoop6988]

I found a pencil like this in someone’s pocket and an other in their pencil case

[@Rubashny_czerep]

haha wtf

[@hoop6988]

LOLIAS I’m not even in an art class or do art my family is just full of thieves.

[@jamesaritchie1]

Most art brands off F grade. I have several brands that offer it, both in woodcase and in mechanical pencil lead. It's actually a common grade (degree). With mechanical pencils, I use 5H, 2H, F, H, HB, B, 2B, and 4B. Then I move up to 2mm and 5.6mm. Several lead degrees are offered for these, but I most often use HB or 2B in the 2mm, and have 6B in one 5.6mm, and 8B in another.

[@pavelperina7629]

I'm not an artist, but for me H seems too hard, F is about optimal for 0.5mm pens, HB is a bit softer and good as well and it seems by far the most common one. B is something that I feel could be softer and darker for drawing. However I'm used to scale B=1; HB=2; H=3; F=2.5 and it kind of surprised me recently that there are like ten higher and lower hardness pens. I know there exists something that be be roughly translated into english as coalstick leaving black mess everywhere, it was something like piece of graphite thicker than pencil wrapped in paper (koh-i-noor gioconda drawing charcoal, they are still produced)

[@milaronyartgallery4667]

Amazing art. Very creative. Really awesome work. I enjoyed it so much. I give praise & support for making it so well. ❤❤

[@j.d.6100]

Staedtler does offer F leads among their wood case drawing pencils, not sure about loose 2.0mm leads

[@Yimengh]

"First and foremost, this pencil does not make you a better artist". I just bought three of them after watching this video. I love them and already feel like a better artist. :-)

[@Stroggoii]

Buying expensive materials doesn't make you a better artist but being comfortable with your materials does. Whether or not those materials are expensive or budget is up to you.

[@miguelperaza6615]

H - F - HB - B Out all these will start trying " F " thank u mate ! 👍

[@sigmundfreud7903]

I just use Dixen Ticonderoga regular and soft variants for my sketches and final work. Imo smooth card stock in bulk Is such a better alternative to buying an overpriced sketchbook.

[@happyquebecman]

I got the uni Mitsubishi 2B wood pencil

[@Trid3nt861]

I mostly use lead holders and mechanical/technical pencils a majority of the time. Though the thing I love about lead holders is that you just sharpen the lead itself into a point. My favorite brand is the German Staedtler brand and I love the Radiograph technical pencils in the very fine points. Im looking to buy a pair of Blackwing pencils as I heard that the lead is quite smooth when drawing with. I actually use the Staedtler cup shaped lead sharpener in tandem with lead holder pencils as it can be fitted with a cotton piece to clean the lead off of the point after you grind/sharpen the lead and has two holes where you can push in to get a very fine point or standard point. I may sooner or later get some Japanese Lead holders soon. I do have a Uni Shift 0.5 mechanical pencil .

[@jamesaritchie1]

I love the Staedtler, but I am not a Blackwing fan. They cost far too much, and you're just paying for the name. Faber-Castel and Staedtler art pencils are much cheap, and use the exact same lead. Tombow are a little cheaper, and may be even better than Blackwing. If you really want to draw, but a reasonably complete set of art pencils. Mine go from 9H all the way to 14B, with F, H, and HB between these extremes. Seriously, every name brand set is great. Tombow, Staedtler, Faber-Castell, Tombow, General's, Caran d'Ache, Mitsubishi, and Prismacolor all make very, very good art pencil sets. I have all of these, and I use General's more than any other, but many prefer one of the other brands. Fabel-Castell is very populat, and you can get a set with every lead degree you need to get started for seven dollars and change, or a complete set for fourteen dollars. People who know I draw give me all sorts of pencils sets, including a bunch of Chinese brands. Some of these are just as good as the big name brands from Europe or America, and they're cheaper, if price is a concern. I know several pro artists who have switched over to Chinese art pencils because they like them just as much as any of the other brands. Really, Blackwing pencils are good, but you'll pay at least three times as much as for most of these other brands, and the lead is no better at all in the Blackwing. Just buy good paper for sketching and good paper for drawing. I think the Walmart Pen and Gear paper is by far the best deal for sketching. It's even good enough to do finished drawings, though I wouldn't sell a drawing done on it, just because buyers can be very silly about paper. I use Strathmore for finsihed drawings. But I suggest a very small sketchbook of whatever brand you can find for easy carrying, and the Pen and Gear for larger sketches and drawings. It's 9x12, has a hundred and twenty sheets of good paper, and costs five bucks. Unbelievably cheap.

[@jamesaritchie1]

Not a mechanical pencil at all. It's either a clutch pencil or a lead holder. I have lead holders that go up to 8mm. I hate the Uni Kura Toga, which supposedly rotates the lead. It doesn't do a very good gob, and good mechanical pencils now do not break lead, even 0.2mm lead, so I always have a sharp point. When I carry woodcase pencils I do bring a sharpener that catches the shavings because I often sketch in a restaurant or at a meeting where there is no convenient place to dispose of the shavings. I don't have any trouble with lead breaking on my woodcase pencils. regardless of how sharp I make the point, but I don't use Blackwing pencils, and I know how sharp to make each hardness. It would have seemed silly and unnecessary just a few years ago, but I now have pencils ranging from 9H to 14B. With H, F, and HB between these extremes. As a rule, mechanical pencils only go from 5H to 4B, and lead holders only go to 8B. I have every well-known brand of woodcase art pencils I can find, plus eight or ten Chinese brands, some of which are remarkably good. I have way over two thousand pencils. Maybe over three thousand. But I still use mechanical pencils and lead holders fair often, usually when I'm in the field. I have too many of these, as well. I have eleven brands of mechanical pencils I use for art, and some brands, such as Pentel, have several models that I like. When I like a model, I buy from for to six of each lead size. The GraphGear 1999m for instance, comes in 0.2, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, and 0.9 lead sizes, and I use 5H, 2H, HB, 2B, and 4B in each lead size, so I have twenty-five GraphGear 1000 mechanical pencils. The same is true for every other model I like.

[@GenWivern2]

I'm a Staedtler loyalist as far as clutch pencils go ... or was, until one of these came my way. They really are the most outstanding lead holders so long as you don't need it to double up as a tommy bar in which case it's back to Staedtler, or the old Eagle/Berol ones. To my very old school way of thinking, not having a lead pointer in the button is fine, because a sandpaper pad is the professional way to go. Funny: these drop lead pencils are sort of a drawing office bygone (like ruling pens), or at least so I assumed, but their general usefulness has ensured their survival in other applications when they've been long gone from the technical drawing trade, supplanted first by thin lead mechanical pencils and later by CAD. There's a bit of an art to getting the right line width and maintaining with these and of course ordinary wood cased pencils, and a measure of pride to be had once you master it - which is no doubt why they disappeared from the draughting trade.

[@cyphi1]

my Staedler Mars lead holder has a sharpener in the back...it doesn't get nearly as sharp as that sharpener though.

[@lurklingX]

ANALOG PENCIL ahahaaa! love it

[@nemofunk]

Hands down the pencil I seem to favor is not an expensive one in fact I had bought it at a Daiso for 100 yen. it even came with a pack of extra leads that I am still using nearly a year and a half later.

[@nef36]

It took me about as long to realize this video was in English as it normally takes me to realize the other ones are in Japanese.

[@HOLAR474]

This seems awesome but do u have to buy a whole different pencil for other softness and hardnesess when choosing the lead

[@DoKiDoKiDrawing]

You can put any hardness of pencil lead into it as long as it’s the Mitsubishi UNI 2mm refills. This video shows multiple different holders because they can be purchased that way but they’re all the same shape and they also sell unlabelled holders. Either way, you only need one.

[@HOLAR474]

@@DoKiDoKiDrawing aww thanks you mate

[@watchordie9810]

Hi from Russia

[@cmikhail7289]

it reminds me of the staedtler technico 780 pencils

[@tendousatori8582]

This was so useful

[@Infinitis]

Well I’m sold. Off to Sekaido I go!!

[@sevkettamturk2732]

I am preparing for the exam, so I write a lot and I am solving tests. Which pen would you recommend? Pentel Smash 0.5 and Pentel Graph 1000 For Pro 0.5, which is better?

[@hakanlundberg]

You have to buy a few and try them out for yourself. The anatomy of your individual hand and how you personally hold and move the pencil won’t allow for someone else to answer that question. The perhaps most important things to analyze is the weight, the balance (heavier towards the tip or center balanced) and the texture where you grip the pencil with your fingers.

[@justjohnny2410]

What is the pencil case called it look nice

[@E-M-T]

Replying for any future travelers, it's the "Derwent pocket pencil wrap"

[@d.st.michael4195]

I’M strong TOO! What a coincidence. Rrraaaaaagh! Lol

[@frostleaves2372]

finally,a pencil that saves our trees

[@thephilosopher5799]

Yep. That’s the main plebeian why I use mechanical pencils and lead holders.

[@reginaldforthright805]

You know you can plant new trees right and that plastic is way worse for the environment

[@licentiousdreams]

All the ones I've used has a sharpener in the cap. That's what the little hole is for.

[@Zager-recap]

My pencil dream when they make a whole mechanical pencil with wood..it will be really Great. I'm using Faber Castel mechanical pencil.

[@nazunamiyauchi8329]

I have a similar one. Mechanical pencil for liiife

[@djsango8922]

Third ONEEEEE!!!!!!

[@onegaimuscle717]

I recommend trying out staedtler 2.0 lead holder and the lead pointer....it’s kind of same but better

[@reginaldforthright805]

No I prefer this, staedtler pointer is the best though

[@aestheticart4775]

Sensei doki-doki❤🙇‍♂️

[@blank5589]

What lead would you use with this pen?

[@martinr9618]

Staedtler mars 780 are great too

[@HQMan2008]

I always wanted one of those, but they are kinda expensive in Brazil

[@allukapluss1469]

Realmente

[@ph1zy696]

What pencil case is that?

[@DoKiDoKiDrawing]

It's called the Derwent pocket pencil wrap

[@a.s.l711]

i actually believed buying a better pencil than i owned makes me a better artist. .....

[@bruceferry3825]

Wow... you're making a big deal out of an old school style drafting pencil. Only in the old days, we had a special pencil sharpener for it.

[@reginaldforthright805]

Well it’s the best pencil ever made so why not

[@madrmadrussian4931]

It's a car! It's a plane! NO IT'S A PENCIL!

[@Dogfrommars]

What is that drawing board in this video?

[@mrpatato137]

Is it the same company that makes fourwheelers and maybe car

[@nasshu6259]

is the lead refill 2mm universal ?

[@erdican7749]

What are the benefits of having a 2 mm mechanical pencil instead of having a 0.5 mechanical pencil

[@Dismiazs]

You have the tip of traditional pencil with the body of mechanical pencil. 0.5 mechanical pencil have only have sharp tip, while 2mm have the versatility of traditional pencil tip

[@erdican7749]

@@Dismiazs thanks, when you talk about versatility are you talking about line width and shading type?

[@Dismiazs]

@@erdican7749 yeah. You pretty much only have one line thickness on a 0.5

[@Emmaboyy]

I keep the led shavings and throw away the wood shavings

[@Neo-ut8kq]

Me too I use it for shading , and it works well with blending stump

[@ph1zy696]

Can you help me out? So i really want this pencil but I cant find a single place that sells it without shipping price being over 50$. Are there any Japanese stores that ship to eu with reasonable shipping price?

[@thanatos454]

How much were these in the store?

[@thanatos454]

@@dzevadbayraktar322 Thanks! But yeah, I was more wondering what the price difference was for a brick and mortar establishment in Japan. Amazon has these at $10 and Jetpens at $8.75 when I checked 2 hours ago.

[@magdalenajedzierowska5741]

I'm using Rotring 300, which is also very comfortable to use, but I'm struggling to sharpen it right every time D:

[@GenWivern2]

I've never had a Rotring pencil, simply because it always seems like you're paying a premium for the name. However, for technical pens they've always been the gold standard and probably always will be, and my compasses have served me forever. Good company, but decent alternatives exist.

[@hanzgetzeflammenwefer1049]

What do the settings do on the pencil the one that goes from 2 h to f or something

[@hanzgetzeflammenwefer1049]

Dzevad Bajraktarevic oh lmao I always thought it magically changed the led type it held thanks

[@ertankocakoc3704]

English: I have been using "Pentel Smash" for a long time and I want to get a better and better quality pen that is very old. Which pen do you think should I buy? I like your videos and I wish you continued success. Türkçe: Uzun zamandır "Pentel Smash" kullanıyorum ve çok eskidi daha güzel ve kaliteli bir kalem edinmek istiyorum. Sizce hangi kalemi almalıyım? Videolarınızı beğenerek takip ediyorum başarılarınızın devamını dilerim.

[@yamigekusu]

I have two of these (in 4H and F)! Love these damn things

[@hyleenpognaire8134]

Mechanism seems similar to staedlar

[@dny4469]

Hey, what's that drawing pad you're using over there? It sort of look like a clipboard but I've never seen anything like that EDIT: Nvm turns out it's actually an animation board, and that clip thing is called a peg bar

[@jordanheatwole4211]

can i get the link or name for your pencil case

[@ph1zy696]

it's called the Derwent pocket pencil wrap

[@harvyjepollo2565]

Mechanical pencil🖊️🖊️

[@juxiobat494]

Nihongogamer

[@gensischosen251]

Yea yea! Please do more pencils showcase😍 also great I don’t have to put subtitles

[@frozenhyraxggogleninjinga9184]

staedler mars technico is exactly the same

[@thedownwardmachine]

Wow, a video about the most reliable Mitsubishi!

[@maximme]

"fresh pencil" hahahaaa