Why you DON'T need a 3d Printer

[@shotgunrc9785]

Thank you for the talk on cost! Trying to explain that to people is so difficult at times. I've told one friend they can take one of my printers home and print their parts themselves. So they did. They returned the printer and now have no problem paying for quality prints.

[@GCMRacing1]

Exactly! HAHA! Well, it's not as 'simple' as people are so willing to declare..

[@ekpauly]

I love this sitting in the chair, straight to the point talk. Missed you guys at USTE hope to see you next year.

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks!

[@Chongy28]

Good video for folks on the fence about buying a 3d printer I hope this educates some. People dont realise how intensive of a hobby 3d printing can be totally on its own. Lots of people i have talked to thing you just load filament and a file then press a button. Weigh your rolls before your print . Almost every empty spool weight can be found online. There is a very steep learning curve with 3d printing. I probably did heavy research for 6-8 months before getting a 3d printer and almost didnt get one but my wife bought me one this past christmas. I gotta say i love it but you need to put the time and effort in if you want successful prints. My printer has been running nonstop and i am already developing my own parts on fusion 360 quite successfully and sharing them with others.

[@GCMRacing1]

Great story here! And you've got some great points about the trend to open the box and push the button... 3d printing is a whole hobby all it's own for sure. Committing to the learning curve will certainly lead to more success.

[@andymerc190E]

Great video explaining just SOME of the MANY troubles of 3D printing lol. Just to pitch my 2 cents in. On my Ender3 V2 I ditched the bed they provided instantly and went to a local glass manufacturer and got an exact piece cut (4mm thick I think) and use that. Only thing I do before each print is clean the bed with window cleaner (with ammonia) and paper towel. Prints have been staying flat for 2 years. As for getting the part off the bed. I use the flat scraper, hold it flat on the bed and give the part a quick tap at the base. If you can hold the part and slightly pull up on it as you tap it. It should require less of a tap. No need to take the bed off after each print. The only time I re-level, is after I've done maintenance I love my printer, and even with the huge list of flaws. The benefits definitely outweigh them. Hope that helps, and the best of luck to you 👍🏿

[@GCMRacing1]

Well, that's certainly a great report! I have a pretty flat piece of glass so far, compared to some.. this one is pretty good actually. I'll be sure to get a new glass or 2 just to have easy switch outs.. So you are not using any glue at all? I did have to use a little mallet and block to knock those thicker bits off, and it works very well. I'm still in the mood to remove the plate, and then keep an eye on the leveling afterwards.

[@andymerc190E]

@@GCMRacing1mind you, I've only been printing in PLA, but I have never used glue in the 2 years I've owned it. I'm afraid that If I do use glue, then the part would never come unstuck from the bed. I just make sure the bed temp stays at 60°C. I would also say careful with the mallet. I've seen some people take chunks of glass off with the part because of the shock. Rendering their glass useless

[@GCMRacing1]

I did that with ABS on my other printer. The parts would cool on their own, and it would lift a big piece of glass out of the plate all by itself.. just from cooling.

[@davejones6417]

Well said Chris. I highly enjoy designing and printing my own stuff. People do not know how much time is involved on the back end. Great job on everything you do....

[@GCMRacing1]

Right on, thanks for the comment!

[@christopherlastname7638]

I have one it's a pain in the ass but when you need something you need it !

[@GCMRacing1]

So true! I made a cupboard hinge spacer yesterday! LOLL

[@hangingback8494]

Before the holidays I started learning CAD, and designed a 3/4 point Axle truss and then wanted to see it on my New CMAX Ultimate Coil Kit and fine tune the design. To do this I bought a simple 3d Printer for me to break in on.....and now I'm 2 printers deep and over 100 structural prints, 4 design revisions in addition to testing several different filament types...through my adventure thus-far, everything you said is so true. Tuning/Alignment and proper bed temp are the most important next to using DRY Filament. I can say with each failure I have learned and continued persistence my build is coming together nicely.

[@GCMRacing1]

This is a great comment, Thanks! I love to hear about this progression... need, CAD, learning, trying, perfecting! That's a great way to enjoy any hobby, and you're certainly gaining the benefits of that work. Printing and even CAD can be a fiddly thing, but it's worth it for sure!

[@Djkommode]

If parts only cost a couple bucks id support that business and pay more. I’d just need a reliable source lol

[@shotgunrc9785]

I've been 3d printing for over 10 years now. I've tried many different brands thinking the issues would go away. They never really do lol. You can easily spend more time tinkering then printing. I think everyone should start out with a somewhat budget printer to learn all the different issues, then spend the money on a Prusa. However I think the Prusa title is earned through time lol. I try to stay away from glue, hairspray, or ABS slurry to stick a print. Just straight heated glass bed. You did a great job covering a lot of the problems. And ABS is the toughest to print in my opinion. Specially on a printer that isn't enclosed.

[@GCMRacing1]

I think I learned a few things over the last 7 years as well. I love and hate ABS. I really love my newest setup and current materials. It took a bunch of hours to tune in my own way, but I'm very happy with it now. And I'm fully expecting to have some other sort of issue soon, as you say, they never really go away.

[@voodoostroker]

Elmer’s disappearing purple glue stick works great for me. Better bed springs off Amazon made a big difference as well i have to level my bed way less often.

[@GCMRacing1]

Good to know! Great tip!

[@lifestooshort44]

Well spoken! I'm brand new at the resin printing and lemme tell you....it's DEFINITELY not what I was expecting 🤣 but like you said, once you get it dialed in it's pretty rewarding, it just takes awhile to get used to😂

[@GCMRacing1]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@wesmadebuilds681]

And this is why I never went with hot nozzle printing. Everybody and their brother asked why not and I always told them I have enough hobbies. What I went with is resin for small parts and I will stick with scratch building and vacuum molding for the rest.

[@GCMRacing1]

Your choice is actually similar to the ones who chose 3d printing... you looked into your craft, and spent the time to perfect and develop your creative process, and it's working VERY WELL! haha (love your stuff) and the printer guys have to do the same thing... good designs, well setup tools, and the results can be great!

[@joss67uk]

Resin is next on my list for small parts for sure and with the combined washing and curing stations its a lot less messy, Ive tried nozzles small than .4mm but at the end of the day its still molten plastic and its not ideal for fine details and on small parts ive had to print multiples just to give parts chance to cool before the next layer.

[@ModelCarHobbyist]

I agree. I have seen enough of people talking about these printers messing up thst I don't want one until I can afford the headache and that will be no time soon. I definitely want to buy a liquid resin printer for making small custom model parts for my custom builds and hopefully be able to sell those custom parts as a kit once I have worked out any issues with them. Very informative video though!

[@belair64]

Well said Chris. I've designed hundreds of parts for RCs

[@zanthraxnl]

Most of these problems come from owning a cheap printer. A Prusa isn't much more expensive than an Ender but having owned both: the Prusa is 100% worth it. Also, I gave up printing ABS. It's a little stronger than PLA and not worth the headache. The real reason people don't need a 3D printer: If you are not able to design your own parts you just end up printing trinkets from Thingiverse. Sketchup and Tinkercad are not that hard, Fusion is a little harder but also a lot more powerful. And they are all free.

[@GCMRacing1]

Designers would likely also have the mentality to pursue printing. Yes. I think it's a great tool to get us through the design to hard parts phase.

[@joshlvn7732]

If you wanna play you gotta pay! Fact!!

[@AyrBear1988]

awesome video, thanks for taking the time to enplane the struggles and cost.

[@GCMRacing1]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Jeepy84]

A piece of plate glass the same size as the bed, held on with paper clamps til you can print some edge holders. Kick up the bed temp by about 10C. I clean mine with a windex/simple green solution right before bed warming. No glue required. Spring sleeves reduce the frequency of leveling. Have a solid workbench in a draftless and consistent temperature environment (my basement in my case). Even with all that, I'm still learning and tuning. It truly is a hobby in of itself. But so cool when you successfully use a part you designed and made in a build after all the failures and cussing.

[@GCMRacing1]

Haha! Yess! It's great to have the successes, for sure. I have the plate on a few clips, and it's staying very level actually. I think the coating on my glass plate is now a problem place... it was a real gem at the beginning, and now it's worn some, it's more of a hinderance. Maybe time for a new glass....

[@elleryfernandez4007]

I have a quick fix, get a Prusa MK3. Also if you print anything that's is not PLA I would recommend an enclosure. In any case desktop 3D printers are for handy people, makers. People who can understand how things work and are able to troubleshoot. Prusa printers reduce tinkering to a minimum, manufacturing quality is guaranteed, also after sales support. All your problems are usually present in Chinese printer which are made with bad quality control and cheap components and materials.

[@GCMRacing1]

It's true that there's a curve of less tinkering, high quality.. down to massive problems, super cheap printer.. yes.

[@SP-nt4sr]

I don't need someone who plays with toy cars to tell me why I do or don't need something

[@GCMRacing1]

Great! Then why are you watching a toy car channel?

[@christopherlastname7638]

Most public library's have 3d printers!

[@RcNickster709]

Yup Definitely a Love-Hate relationship. As a part of the machine shop where I work. They decided to test some 3D printing capabilities and apply it to our work. They picked up the Ultimaker 5. This thing can make some pretty complicated parts and also has the extra spool for "support material" or a second color. Between Temperature ranges and infill densities and Line thicknesses and adhesion issues and types of material. It can be a real challenge. I have been made responsible for this machine and learn how to use it. Naturally small scale items are great practice and don't take long. ;) But it is definitely a process and it is way more than just hitting Print.. lol Thanks for sharing

[@GCMRacing1]

Great explanation there.. yeah. The more complex machines have used the dual material etc to keep the more expensive 'real' material waste down to a minimum. True. It's fun, but it's going to heat up your brain sometimes!

[@daver18qc]

Get a glass bed. As soon as the temp drops to about 40-45c your prints will pop off by themselves. Didn't get a stuck print in years now. :D

[@rowntrp]

Thanks for the honest down to earth talk on 3D printing.

[@GCMRacing1]

You bet, Thanks for watching!

[@xccghvbno1063]

Pro tip whenever you have a piece that stuck to well heat up the bed above 60 sometimes 80 and you'll be able to get up underneath it

[@michaelthomas3262]

that's totaly true - thx for talking

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for watching!

[@skypowergb3842]

7:21 , just get new roll and wait till filament gets into extruder then put it in , takes time but works it just continues to print like it had never run out of it

[@rctrailking8542]

well that scares me from a printer sucks we dont have a local guy

[@GCMRacing1]

Feel free to get into it, but come in with your eyes open. It can be learned, and also can have frustrating days. Reading the comments here you get lots of different stories..

[@stringsattached67]

If you run out of filament hit pause replace the new filaments hit pause again and off you go 😁

[@GCMRacing1]

Great tip! Hopefully it will pause somewhere the head is NOT melting a hole in your printed parts. I know my pause doesn't stop right away, it runs through whatever lines are in memory already before it stops.

[@Joe-sn6ir]

you shouldn't have a 3d printer if you don't know what to do in those cases.

[@WheelchairRCEscape]

Thank you for the info... Great heads up

[@GCMRacing1]

Any time! Thanks for watching!

[@rileykairc]

I have been looking for a 3d printer for a while not sure which one to buy ,but before I do that I need a new laptop as dog destroyed it last week,but once I get a laptop I will get a printer to

[@Shade_tree_garage01]

okay, imma be real, i was a beginner in 3d printing, i just jumped into it as most modern programs make it POINT AND CLICK, ultimaker-cura is a fine example of this, saying steer clear of it is like saying "Steer clear of computers because they're hard to learn". All you need to know for 3d printing: Nozzle size(Most common is 0.4mm) filament Type and size (Common is 1.75mm size pla) and Plate size (Usually -x-x- format) and you can start 3d modeling with tinker cad which has LITERAL FREE CLASSES to learn! along with that, if you want FINE details you get a SLA printer which prints thinner than the human hair, and can print HIGH detail models, and you can get one of those for 150-200 USD!

[@JoseMartinez-nm7ht]

Keep a stable environment (a hood), no more shrinkage. Maybe Ender does not have that function, but most newer ones allows you to continue your print when you run out of filament. But damn, your video just says "give up" based on your experience. Took me a bit of time to learn and tweak my printer and it works great, not that hard. I guess if you're not really interested in 3d printing it might be difficult.

[@GCMRacing1]

Very true. Certainly my ABS printing benefited from the hood and more stable temperatures. I'm suggesting each person needs to have an honest conversation about printing when they get into it... Like you did... You started it and stuck with it to learn and make it work well. Many people I've heard also have this experience, and unfortunately some think they can buy one and then it's done. Like turning on the phone and using google.. but it's not that simple.. and then they bail out.

[@HarmanMotorWorks]

Using a bit of water-based glue stick on the Ender's hot bed works a treat and seems to eliminate curling and lift of the corners of the piece; this is my experience at least with PLA+ and PETG so far. Printing anywhere from 10min to 24+ hours, no issues at all. To remove the pieces once printed, use the provided flat metal scraper, place it at the corner of the piece just near the surface of the bed, and use a rubber mallet and very very lightly tap at the handle of the scraper...comes free just fine With regards to material remaining, obviously one needs to plan ahead before committing to a print. Cura 3D the slicing software I use estimates the amount of plastic used in the print. By weighing an empty print spool, and subtracting this weight from the current weight of a spool loaded with filament, you can estimate how much plastic you have remaining. Therefore you can more or less ensure you load a sufficient amount of plastic before a print. I love 3D printing, it's a perfect complement for the R/C vehicle hobby. The Creality really doesn't demand that much maintenance if you keep it clean, use some ISO alcohol on the bed to clean it now and again, keep the belt tensions in check, etc. Just gotta use that noggin' 🙂 I've designed and printed an R/C half-track vehicle from scratch and I'm almost done with the final details of the design; the base vehicle is printed and running around the lounge room floor

[@GCMRacing1]

Pretty good addition to the RC hobby for sure. Yes sir. I was using glue on my glass plate for the ABS printer as well. Worked just great on there, and stuck the ABS down with no problems.

[@HarmanMotorWorks]

@@GCMRacing1 Nice one, glad to hear it. I've more recently started using ASA filament for my more mechanical prints and things like chassis rails etc. I find that ASA has superior UV resistance and is a great material to print with, similar to ABS in toxicity but a little less prone to warping than ABS. Happy printing 😎

[@GCMRacing1]

@@HarmanMotorWorks thanks for that tip! I'm going to check out ASA!

[@anibalbabilonia1867]

Wow! I never realized how bad things can really get with 3d printer! Great info!👍

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for watching!

[@blaisechapman6051]

How many of these problems are avoided with a different printer?

[@GCMRacing1]

Great comment! Some of them can.. yes. Some printers with higher prices will have auto bed leveling, and a monitor on the spool feed to pause automatically if the spool runs out. Otherwise, you're still going to have nozzle clog opportunities with any printer.. or delamination because of settings failures, or file design problems. There's still variables, but as you say... some of them can be avoided with a different model of printer. (and price!)

[@seanhanley947]

I use Aqua Net for my prints seems to work quite well for me. I have had to replace rollers and hot end on my printer after few hundred hours. Luckily the parts are cheap and can afford to have spares. I agree bed leveling is a constant battle every time.

[@GCMRacing1]

Haven't seen this brand yet, I'll take a look!

[@traviselliott3042]

speaking the Truth! Wish i knew then what i know now!

[@GCMRacing1]

Yes for sure!

[@Bang_n_slang]

How durable are the parts ? Can they handle as gears or bevels ?

[@GCMRacing1]

Likely you could make gears. I think PETG is better for gears than PLA

[@scalecrawlnl]

Fun and interesting video, quite educational too, and a hot topic in the community as it appears from the comments, thank you GCM Racing 👍

[@GCMRacing1]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@traviselliott3042]

most of Elmers Glues are water based, so try rinse with water

[@GCMRacing1]

It does come off well in the sink, yes. Easy to clean with water

[@jeremyoshea7941]

Not just this but how many things have we paid for bought and then the education comes after, it could work out but maybe it will be put in storage. Onto the next thing to buy, Chanel’s like this make purchase thought about instead of just a Impulse purchase.

[@GCMRacing1]

For sure. To update this, I've been using this Ender printer SO MUCH it's ridiculous, and it's proving very VERY reliable. I'm exceedingly happy with it, and thanks to that, it's been way less headaches than normal. I've also consistently done better with my layouts.. . so I'm arranging stuff on the print table that stick better, have less failures, and produce more consistent parts. It's been a GOOD last couple of months on this thing.

[@michaelhoyle2665]

I find 3D printing both challenging and rewarding. There are a lot of good resources online for when you get frustrated. It's definitely not a set it and forget it hobby. Being able to create your own stuff is a game changer though.

[@GCMRacing1]

Totally agree! I love the creativity made into solid parts, love this! And I'm committed to keeping this thing running without throwing a tantrum.

[@Shade_tree_garage01]

hell, ill list some good brands Anet- Their ET4 PRO and ET4 are GREAT amazing printers that print fine details, look too my upcoming WPL 1/16 Mack. Creality SLA- The SLA printers are excellent and affordable, and easy to use! Any Cubic- The photon is an excellent machine that prints Like any other RESIN printer with the thinnest layer height, like a resin or cast mold. ELEGOO- the mars SLA printer is amazing and easy to maintain, saying it isnt is like saying the Moon isnt made of rock. saying you don't need one is like saying "You don't need a car because a horse and buggy is just fine". No, you dont need the car, But its still better, and Imma be real, a car lasts alot longer than the horse, and its better at what it does.

[@GCMRacing1]

Seems you've done some homework, and you've put in the time and learning investment to make this a great hobby for you. Those are some great printer recommendations for sure! If you don't like driving, and hate horses, I'd suggest you don't get either...

[@Marouane89]

nice video thanks from brussuls :)

[@GCMRacing1]

Thank you too!

[@gunnerschwieterman344]

Bro pause the print and refill the plastic I have the same printer

[@GCMRacing1]

I just did that the other day, works great!

[@Ang3lOfD3ath]

Lol soak ur glue stck build plate in hot water

[@gunnerschwieterman344]

Get a new glass bed and it will be flat

[@GCMRacing1]

I've changed to a Fabreeko magnetic bed, and it's really great!

[@iniqy]

Didn't watch, but since you are having an ender 3.. explains it all hahaha

[@DFDuck55]

Another issue with 3D printing is virtually all 3D printers are made in China. So customer support is inadequate at best. I have a Creality printer. After only a few hours use the filament feed tube pulled out of the hot end and damaged the hot end fitting. Since Creality has no replacement parts or information on this printer I emailed them to find out if the parts I needed to repair it were the same as another model that was available (which I determined by looking at photos of the parts were the same.) It took 20+ emails to get them to answer my question "will these parts fit my printer". Since they don't speak English their replies made absolutely no sense. When I sent them photos of my broken parts they claimed they weren't stock parts, which they were, so they wouldn't honor the warranty. Even though I did eventually get them to answer my question I figured dealing with this company was too much of a pain in the arse, and threw the printer in the trash.

[@GCMRacing1]

Horrible story. And unfortunate you didn't get any support on the items.

[@mattposter]

Glass bed is your issues. Get a metal plate. Glass beds are old news. Also, what you’re saying is a very technical hobby with a high learning curve is highly technical with a high learning curve???

[@chasebelaski2800]

To me all these so called junk parts I wish I had because I still could turn them into something col but I think I might still get a 3D printer

[@rcground682]

If you don't need it I'll take it off your hands :) Christmas is right around the corner!!

[@ptalbany]

I understand where your coming from but today thy have printers that will stop when out of filament and they have self leveling beds and the community help on line is so good before you know it all your questions are answered So yes there is a learning curve but once you get over it you are all set to make whatever you can imagen but as you say if your not willing to learn then pay and have them made, I just bought one and it gave perfects prints right out of the box but yes I agree if you do have someone print parts for you dont be a penny pincher as they have time and money into the print.

[@GCMRacing1]

Yes sir, so true. When I get prints from someone else, I usually wish they would charge more for their time.. so they will want to continue doing this! The more fancy printers are certainly available, yes.

[@dadsrcworkbench1322]

Are you printing PLA or PETG? Why I ask is because PETG harder to get off the print bed than PLA. PETG will even tear up a glass bed so glue stick, hair spray or some type of layer on the bed is the best solution.

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for the comment. I use PLA on heated bed only, and the glue stick for the PLA+.. which is the one that curls the edges. The glue stick has totally eliminated the corners lifting... so that's great! I haven't tried PETG on this machine yet.

[@nicholasbarber4193]

You completely explained why I didn't get a printer. I know too many people who do it very well for good prices, and there is a TON of work to do it well. I'm old, I still use styrene... lol

[@GCMRacing1]

neat! For some reason I thought you already had one, but I agree with your decision!

[@goatman5475]

Welcome to my world....i run 4 printers 7 days a week.....its worse then a class of 50 4 year old kids.

[@GCMRacing1]

Ouch!

[@razycabrones]

The struggle is real but so satisfying when it works

[@GCMRacing1]

It's so GREAT! when it's working. yeah! I'm so happy to have some of the finished goods to clean up the mounts on my truck builds. Very helpful and works great, so this 3d thing is here to stay for me.

[@radioactivescalerc]

Nice Content, 3D printing is another Hobby on its own!! its not just something you can open and go, I have been 3d printing for years and its the same as my RC's Maintain the printer and all is good. I am still using the first printer I bought and have not changed anything "Just clean and Maintain" over 3 years of running. long story short " its just about knowledge and keeping with it "anyone can do it and do it with great results...

[@GCMRacing1]

Well said!

[@joss67uk]

I *LOVE* and *HATE* 3D printing, they certainly aint plug and play lol working with layer heights from .04mm to .3mm it has to be precise . End of the roll is a pain but Ive been lucky and been able to feed a new roll through on my direct drive printer. If the print is stuck to a glass bed try soaking it in warm (not hot) water, should eventually wick through the glue enough to free the part. Id never seen a 3D printer in the flesh until I bought mine, its a huge learning curve and a lot of work but in 12 months I went from struggling to print a 1cm cube to designing my own 1:8 scale Toyota engine. If you want to press a button and get a print then it for sure aint for you, If youre up for a challenge and a lot of work and the best feeling when you make something out of nothing, go for it...

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for the comment. Something out of nothing is a great feeling.. from screen to hand.. it can be a great tool if you're committed to the work and learning! Yeah!

[@westernsharpie]

Man you said it, I make scale accessories and sell them on my FB page. The printed parts are just one step in creating a handmade accessory, from printing to sanding, assembling, painting the expenses of my printer etc, very labour intensive. Most people understand why they are priced the way they are, but there are quite a few that like you said only see it as a little plastic part that shouldn't cost that much. They don't really get to see behind the curtain, like you've shown and explained here. I think most of us including me have become used to cheap stuff from ebay, ali express, banggood etc and assume thats the norm. Good video buddy.

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for the comment and story! Great! Sure true that it's work to keep them going, and I'm doing this only for myself and my builds, but .. to do this for a sale of product is another whole level of work. Best luck man! Yeah!

[@lil_weltthomas7118]

I thought you was going to show how to start making parts for anything bummer

[@GCMRacing1]

Check out a channel called Harley Designs, and there's a whole 3d printing tutorial series there, where he teaches this stuff from zero to finished. It's really good!!

[@seavee2000]

Very good video-have thought about getting one a number of times,but to be honest,for all the reasons you mention it isn't worth it. And I prefer to fabricate my RC parts myself,often from "scrap" materials, have never not been able to do it yet. But I was "lucky" and got an engineering apprenticeship many years ago,and enjoy using my hands,a file,a vice and a square. Another thing you didn't mention is temperature stability of parts you print,either in hot or cold temps-I've heard they ain't too good.........maybe for indoor racing but not much else.

[@GCMRacing1]

Correct sir! About the temperature variations.. each material tends to print well at it's respective temperature, whatever that is, and then some materials don't do well AT ALL in hot UV sun.. and will melt down again, loosing all shape and form you've put into them. Some materials won't deform at all due to higher temperature production, but as they say.. you get what you 'pay' for.. and the lower temp printing is easiest, and also more susceptible to deformation in the sun. Yes. Or the hot south!

[@seavee2000]

@@GCMRacing1 You are,of course, correct about "you get what you pay for" and I don't doubt that your parts are amongst the best. As you say,hot sun especially under a body which is already trapping heat from ESCs and motors isn't ideal. The video was extremely informative and well produced, I thank you for taking the time to put it together, as a professional model maker I learned a great deal from it. Thankfully RC cars are just a hobby for me.....

[@spidubic68]

Soak the glass bed in water to dissolve the glue?

[@GCMRacing1]

Yep, it comes off pretty easy in any water.

[@91TurboSedan]

Have you tried fishing line to remove part?

[@GCMRacing1]

Not yet! Neat idea though..

[@mikeupton5406]

BRAVO!! Well said and illustrated

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks!

[@stringsattached67]

I've been lucky then ' I've had my 3D printer for 3 years now and haven't had very many failed prints . Ender3 pro with upgrades such as a glass bed better extruder . Only had 1 clogged up tip I change those out about every 20 print's. I just recently started using the ironing feature and that's a great feature. Good video BTW I really enjoy your channel keep up the great content...

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks for the comments! Tell me more about the 'ironing' feature, I don't know about that one!

[@stringsattached67]

@@GCMRacing1 if you go into the advanced settings there's an ironing feature you can check mark and it'll basically make you last layers on the flat surfaces smooth.

[@GCMRacing1]

Yeah! I'll try the Iron feature now! Thanks!

[@stevestonrcguy5393]

Great video! Super informative! Having said what you did, do you print parts for our Canadian RC community 🤠👍🇨🇦?

[@GCMRacing1]

Yay! Thanks for the comment! I don't do prints for the RC bunch, no, but I know VS Customs does, and they have a website with bits already on it.

[@BC-rc]

Alot of great info that I for one never thought of, awesome job!

[@GCMRacing1]

Awesome, thank you!

[@kennethwehnert2672]

Thank you Chris for a straight to the point talk... I loved my printer for the first 500 hours of prints and then it went to crisis level frustration.. I gave my printer and all my filament to my groups printer guy. He had to do a full rebuild of the first generation Ender3 Printer. I take very good care of him and make sure he gets fully compensated. I gave him a RTR Skeleton JK a little while ago for him doing all the custom work he does for me... But the lure of the printer has caused me to order a new one from Prusa, I figure that if they use the same printer to make their printer they could not afford the labor to maintain a crappy printer. My goal is to build rigs that are something that nobody else has. I am a GCM fan boy and really enjoy your products . Thanks for all the work you do.

[@GCMRacing1]

Interesting experience.. I agree, it can come in like a lamb and out like a fire dragon! hahaha

[@dannyvigo8761]

👍🏾

[@sebs8807]

That was honest. Thank you :)

[@GCMRacing1]

Always!

[@Worthi_Creations]

Have you thought about pei or geckotek on the glass? Bltouch for leveling and filament runout sensor? Theres plenty of upgrades that can make 3d printing much easier.

[@GCMRacing1]

Certainly, there are technical upgrades to help with these things, although they make it more production worthy, they don't make it 'hands off' completely. I'm ok with the lower tech machine and a little more attention paid to the operation.

[@ronniecreason7870]

Good video nice Point

[@GCMRacing1]

Thanks!

[@Undermyskin196]

Try heating up the plate just enough with a torch on the other side when pulling material off if it's stuck