WHY YOU NEED TO STOP BUYING ANTI NEWTON RING GLASS!

[@MacroMatt]

Yesterday I went to my local framing shop. They had some of this etched glass, but they said everyone is switching to coated glass. In fact, they dug the etched glass out of their old storage. This stuff is harder to find at framing shops because it does not perform as well as coated glass. So, everyone better get out there and get all the etched glass you can find! BTW- four pieces 35mm wide by 7inches long cost me $6. Nice. Bonus, the scanning of color negatives is excellent. I used the procedure described in the video on my Epson 4990. Works great!

[@andrewmarfoli3957]

Been debating buying ANR glass for years. Glad I saw this!

[@jorbin7417]

Debating this method or throwing my scanner at maybe a wall

[@Mike-ot3yg]

Thanks for posting this. I’ve been looking at anti-newton glass since getting a used, Epson V500 a few years ago but it was costlier then the scanner. As you suggested, my local framing shop cut me a 8x10 piece of “NG glass” for $7. It seems to work great and was just what I needed for some panoramic, sprocket scans.

[@noahfilmsthis]

Great video! I was just about to get back into scanning and I found this, great information in here I will give it a shot.

[@justinweier4099]

This video is outstanding! Thanks for providing all the detailed info...and laughs!

[@bachdinh4404]

Dude thank you so much!!! I got some reflection control glass from a local art and frame place and it works perfectly! 2 strips for 35mm and 2 for 120mm for a total of 22 bucks.

[@jordidolcet6156]

I wasn't able to find Tru Vue Reflection Control glass where I live (Spain) but I did find Tru Vue Museum Glass. I bought 2 sheets and it works great!!! No newton rings at all and the scans come out really sharp. Thanks once more for such an amazing video which got me in the right direction!!

[@Mickaelplqn]

It's working with color film ?

[@jordidolcet6156]

Such an informative video, as someone else said this video should have.a zillion views. You are THE scanning authority!!! Thank you so much!!!

[@taylorwilliams3347]

So informative! Thank you for doing the research AND sharing it. You the real MVP :')

[@AppleGameification]

I found this video after trying to look for a betterscanning ANR glass alternative since they never replied when I tried to contact them :)

[@paolociccone]

Another incredibly useful video. Thank you very much for dispelling this myth and providing such detailed information. This series about film scanning is a fantastic resource for photographers.

[@matttttt63]

You a legend for this one

[@DonnieAm]

Fantastic. Great technical analysis and some great info that will for sure save me cash.

[@nickcosh5947]

Great video, looking forward to more scanning videos like this

[@benzuckerphotos]

how does this not have a zillion views. thank you

[@NordicLab]

Excellent work! Tnx for the information!

[@nowwithvitaminr]

Amazing video, thank you

[@Megaasparo]

In the 80s and 90s we used paraffin oil to mount slides on drum scanners. If you get the technique right, you will get the best results.

[@pd1jdw630]

Now for wet mounting you can just use naphtha.

[@jonjanson8021]

I buy a cheap ten eight picture frame with anti reflective glass. I cut the glass with a glass cutter. It works perfectly in my Epson film scanner.

[@Ptolemusa]

It's interference that causes the "newton ring" phenomenon. It looks like an oil slick because it's the exact same phenomenon. It's caused by the distance between the two surfaces being nearly parallel and as such the light will interfere with itself. The distance between the surfaces is some multiple of the wavelength of light that you see which is why you get a rainbow, the distance is changing and so is the color. Which is why the etching works, if you eliminate the reflection between the two surfaces you eliminate the interference. No interference, no rainbow. Bit of a ramble, but hopefully it makes sense. Watch Huygens Optics here on KZbin to get the juicy details.

[@AdamBaron-Bloch]

If you're going straight on the scanner glass like you suggest without the film holder, is there any benefit to cutting the glass exactly to negative size? Would it be a little easier to cut it a bit larger so you don't have to line it up as precisely? P.S. this video is amazing and exactly what I've been looking for for a while!

[@ShyStudios]

In my setup I have a film holder which is exactly the side of the negative so my glass is cut to that size too and it makes alignment easier, but if you have another way of getting your negatives lined up then yeah glass size doesn't matter at all.

[@Danilixo10]

you've saved my life thank u

[@TheEudaemonicPlague]

I've never had these rings appear on any scan I've ever done, no matter which scanner I used. Now I wonder why....I've scanned a ridiculous amount of stuff in the last couple of decades, so it seems to me I should have run across the problem at least once.

[@yethiel]

That was really helpful, thanks! I have the same scanner and want to get rid of the original film holder as well. Do you think it would make sense to use just one glass panel for two film strips? Or is it important to somewhat match film strip size and glass size? Most places I can order from have a minimum width of 10cm.

[@ShyStudios]

you can make it work but aligning both strips of film so they are as straight as possible is gonna be harder unless you figure out some kind of holding or alignment jig. You can always just get a big sheet and cut it to whatever size you need after.

[@xuanzheng1049]

A7r iva + sigma 105mm macro Art reveals the "glossness" of the glass and not suitable for highres scanning... I finally with trials and errors used tapes with lead strips to keep the edge firmly flat and the emulsion side will conform to flatness by it. Nothing now blocks the emulsion and the scanning is better than ever

[@chris_jorge]

could you elaborate? tapes with lead strips? ty!

[@whateverjustposting]

would have been nice to see actual examples of what your scans look like now

[@WilliamGalindo]

Thank you!

[@HueyPProductions]

What’s the link for the Etsy

[@saynomore192]

@13:49 - There seems to be a witch in your sandwich. 🧙‍♀

[@defcry_again]

I am trying to find solution how to scan large format film on my epson v600. It so seems that the top part of the scanner projecting light is just a bit smaller than I would need for my 4x5. I have seen a guy on youtube using some small led tablet for 20 bucks from amazon, to cover the film instead of glass (your method). I just got idea to order one of those matt screen protectors and cover the film on the scanner with my iPad while projecting white background. Its one of the newer ipad pros so they get quite bright. Do you see this working? Thanks btw, great video.

[@ShyStudios]

it could work, colors might be off and exposure will be weird but I think you could probably tune the light to work pretty good assuming it is bright enough to begin with. Just make sure you don't cover up the calibration zone near the "top" of the bed or it will refuse to scan. No color correction mode in epson scan will probably be what you wanna use.

[@ShyStudios]

oh and you could also just scan half of your frame move it over and scan the other half, then stich it together in photoshop after. Then you wouldn't have to worry about any weird issues from using an alternative light source!

[@steve8547]

I scan large format on my v550. I use the 5x4 holder which I've cut down. I scan one half, slide it over, scan the other and then use the photo stitch tool in lightroom, works every time 😊

[@yellowcrescent]

Not sure if the iPad is a good idea, but curious how it worked out for you. It's possible the iPad's display could cause color artifacts as the CCD cycles through its colors on each row. I would try using a lightbox (I use a cheap Huion tracing pad as a mini light table and it has uniform color and decent CRI). Whatever you choose, never block the first 3/4" or 20mm of the bed, otherwise you will get crazy colors and lines by throwing off the calibration (assuming it doesn't throw an error). If you use the stitching method, just be aware that you'll need the negative to be a planar/flat as possible. And I would probably stitch it in Hugin if possible -- I've found it gives significantly better results for image/pano stitching than Photoshop with less work.

[@jeta1383]

But what is the thickness? 3mm? 5mm? ?

[@ShyStudios]

I think mine are 5mm but I'd say the thicker the better just because of the weight

[@ianz8780]

Shit, I love you

[@joeboswellphilosophy]

I bought some Tru Vue Reflection Control glass on your recommendation, and I'm still getting Newton Rings. :(

[@ShyStudios]

what film are you using?

[@joeboswellphilosophy]

@@ShyStudios It's my grandma's old square format instamatics.

[@ShyStudios]

@@joeboswellphilosophy I wonder if that film's emulsion is more glossy or something. See if more mounting pressure makes them go away or use some kind of thin shim to lift the film away from the scanners glass. Curved side up so the etched glass will hold it down flat.

[@joeboswellphilosophy]

@@ShyStudios Thank you. I had some tentative success this morning after rolling the films up overnight to create a horizontal curl rather than a vertical curl. Have only done a couple of tests so far but will scan more soon.

[@joeboswellphilosophy]

@@ShyStudios Damn, problem still occurring. I don't understand what you mean by a 'thin shim' to lift the film from the scanner glass. With the etched glass on top it's going to touch the scanner no matter what. I wonder if I need etched glass on both sides of the film.

[@antraxuran9]

meanwhile i am using a matte iphone screen protector xDD

[@ShyStudios]

Yeah matte screen protectors are also etched glass so it should work the same!