Why you shouldn't cut your table saw tenons backwards

Which comes first, the mortise or the tenon? LOTS of tips in this one!
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[@StumpyNubs]

Fence clamps ► amzn.to/3iH1wEV Videos about mortises ► Mortises with a forstner bit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4vToXV_fd-LsLc Mortises with a router: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z6e7e2OBd56mmLc Rules for sizing mortises & tenons: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWiZhIiDfKmrfKc When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Sawblade.com: www.sawblade.com/ Subscribe (free) to Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal e-Magazine► www.stumpynubs.com/subscribe.html

[@paulpardee]

This video is a great example of why your content is superior to most woodworking channels. You covered in 9 minutes more than most would on the topic in 20 or 30 minutes, plus we got a safety talk! I love Paul Sellers and Wood by Wright, but they wouldn't have even gotten thru the INTRO in 9 minutes :D We need the long format videos, too, but it's nice to have you as a source of concise, complete and clear information

[@stephen6220]

Files are underutilized in woodworking! Quick and easy to use instead of chisels, sandpaper in many situations. Good suggestion for tenon rounding.

[@patriotperspective9321]

Great information Mr. Hamilton. As a new woodworker, I thoroughly enjoy your videos and the humor that you bring to them.

[@WarrenPostma]

This is fantastic and every woodworker needs these bits of knowledge.

[@sharg0]

As a professional machinist that is used to work with requirements of less then a hundred of a millimetre - There is no thing as an exact cut. Always pay attention to your tolerances and how to handle them. So while wood is very forgiving, carefully measuring parts and decide in which order to mount them might allow you to go from visible gaps to snug fit. And when someone says something is exact, know that they just haven't measured carefully enough. And at last but not least: Thank you stumpy for all these good videos that are full with good advice!

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Good information James, always good to be reminded. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.

[@SteveC38]

You always give such great advice James, Thank You!

[@garycassady746]

Thanks, I really enjoy your presentations. You are concise, thorough, and logical.

[@rogerwhoareyou]

Excellent video and info, I always enjoy watching your videos and learn something useful in the process. Thanks and keep them coming.

[@gordroberts53]

Hi James. Always a pleasure to watch one of your videos, clear, concise and accurate. As an additional bonus in these troubled times, the tone and cadence of your voice is incredibly calming. Thank you always for sharing. Stay safe, you matter to so many of us out here. Cheers from BC!

[@williamlyles3802]

As always good advise, I really like the way you deliver your messages. The important part I have found is the set up of any cut, and you ensure we see how you do it and why. That is the kind of detail that makes us better woodworkers. Thanks again James...

[@johncwhite]

Thanks for your videos. I really appreciate your safety tips, to many you tube woodworkers don't follow safety rules.

[@LarryTait1]

That sacrificial fence on mitre guide is indeed critical. No tear out on hard woods like white oak

[@fletchro789]

I like your videos. I'm not too crazy into furniture making (yet), but I'm absorbing most of these tidbits of info so that when I do start doing stuff, I'll have a faint memory in the back of my head... And I think things will go well. Thank you!

[@watermain48]

Great video James, lot's of good tips for us beginners. Thanks.

[@markduggan3451]

Great information and brilliant timing as I'm soon going to be starting a project that may need some mortise and tenon joints.

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video James! I always enjoy your channel and learn so much. 👍

[@aaronm8046]

Great video James! Keep up the great work!

[@ysrdan]

I really enjoy your channel and learn something almost every time I watch your methods. I may have missed you mentioning the importance of the thickness of your stock being consistent else the tenon's will vary in thickness. Keep on keeping on. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

[@erictheviking672]

At the risk of repeating myself, James, your videos are great. You explain things at the right pace, with confidence but nor arrogance and in small enough chunks. I liked your explanation of why you do the specialist parts instead of the whole project too. So thanks again, James.

[@donbrowning689]

Great vid. Figureing out the length shoulder to shoulder. That why I like loose tenon joinery.

[@genemccarthy2847]

You are an excellent instructor! Thank you.

[@rondo365]

As always, helpful & comprehensive. Thanks!

[@toolchuck]

Splendid video James, I can't think of a stronger joint than a well fitted handmade mortise and tenon. Thank you for all the great content! Chuck

[@jbb5470]

Thanks Stumpy, good information and useful around the shop!

[@jonathanbuck2983]

Stumby Nubs, saw your picture today in Woodsmith Magazine, congrats, love your channel and I have learned a lot from you, thanks and stay safe.

[@blakedozier1131]

Another informative video. Wish I had seen it before I made four identical nightstands. I squared(?) the mortises because I was worried about the possible effect on racking. Next time I'll round over the tenons. If you could put out a list, about a year in advance, of upcoming topics, it would prevent a lot of problems for your viewers. Thank you again for all you do. BTW, saw you in the newest issue of Woodsmith as a contributing editor. Good for you and good for them.

[@T3Temporal]

I enjoy your videos Stumpy Nubs.

[@BrettNiland]

Nice video. Thanks as always for throwing years of experience our way.

[@howardyounger5456]

great video you are a very good teacher. your videos are fun to watch. and are real world stuff. thanks

[@frosiaburlakova7732]

Thank you for another great tutorial!

[@tomtimmons2228]

Excellent tutorial. Thanks.

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great content. Great tips. Thank you for sharing.

[@scottbarrett3194]

As always, good counsel!! Thanks!!

[@chiphunt9540]

Thanks for the tip always learn a lot

[@chrismoody1342]

Going to brag here, I own a dedicated mortiser. So fast and satisfying to use. As for the tenons this is the exact method and procedure I use. Once setup is dialed in, the pieces are a breeze to do over and over.

[@BooyaJoe]

Thanks as usual! Great video.

[@cnich0168]

Love the Red Wings koozie in the videos, been a long time Wings fan!!

[@dpbjlee83]

Thanks - great information

[@kiwdwks]

great advise...appreciate your videos!

[@pawpawstew]

I wish my side cheeks had a smaller glueing surface. Gotta ease up on those cold ones I guess. Great video, James. In all brutal honesty, I've never cut so much as a single mortise or tenon, and these guidelines make me want to go out to the shop and just trying my hand at it. Of course, the heat index here is currently 109°F, so I might opt to go straight for the cold one... Geez we're right back to the size of my cheeks. This degraded rapidly. I digress. Great video👍🏻😁

[@franciscosahagunjr6792]

Good job stumpy🙂

[@leedobson30]

Excellent as always - cheers

[@davidiand7]

Good tips!

[@paisaconstructiondavid1964]

You are correct, moving the fence is not a good idea, and obviously that is the best excuse for buying a second or third table saw.

[@markpalmer3071]

That was great, something I need to try more

[@richardpatterson4312]

If anyone is curious... I love my pantorouter. Love it. Absolutely zero buyer's remorse. I love it.

[@williamellis8993]

Good info. Thanks.

[@craigmoscarell2027]

I actually usually cut just the shoulders on my table saw with a normal blade and use a stop block so the shoulders line up perfectly. Then I don't need to worry about my non-square fence, hah. I recently bought the mortise master jig though, and plan to just use loose tenons going forward because it's so much faster. Your channel is great by the way, not sure how I just found it a month ago when it's been around for so long.

[@pwhsbuild]

Great info!

[@richardbryant5773]

Stumpy a very good info video

[@awlthatwoodcrafts8911]

I'm planning to use some mortise and tenon joinery on the workbench I plan to build later this year. I have the router bit I want to use (paid good money for a 1/2" spiral upcut bit from Whiteside) but I've always wondered whether I should round the tenon or square the mortise. Now I know. Thank you, Mr. Nubs.

[@StumpyNubs]

It's just matter a of personal preference.

[@toysoldier46552]

Every once in a while I'll find myself practicing mortise and tenons even if I'm doing a different type of project. You know for those times when you get stuck on a project and just need to change your pace? Best way to learn is on scrap wood and practice, also how I learned how to box joint and cut dove tails by hand (which I found out my patience for that task just isn't good enough).

[@jamartin1]

Thank you!💜

[@bencrow6663]

Really enjoy your videos. They're really instructive, but unpatronizing. My only constructive criticism would be that you sometimes sound a bit too defensive. You don't need to be. Keep up the good work and ignore the idiots. You're producing great content, you don't need to justify yourself to anyone.

[@michaelreed9652]

Alway great information

[@catfishcave379]

I admit I have not done a tenon yet. I’ve made mortises for hinges and stuff, but I used a chisel. I don’t have router or a tablesaw, so I am not confident in my chisel skills to attempt one. On the bright side however, I did order a tablesaw in May... but the COVID situation has it back ordered until the end of the month. I’m still a noob ( a very old noob), but I’m ready to build “beyond functional quality” items. And of course this channel and others (and books and magazines) have taught me a lot. Have patience thy wyfe, fore a tenonth awaits me!

[@mikecurtin9831]

Since you're a noob, some advice. There are others that will show you different techniques that you can use, but nobody explains their techniques better than James.

[@richardsinger01]

You only need a mortise gauge and a tenon saw. Have a go, you'll get good at it very quickly. You don't need a table saw and dado stack to cut tenons!

[@andrewbieger5004]

Great stuff, James. It is very nice to learn the theories behind the processes. This video packed a ton of useful stuff into 9 minutes. I think I can give it i shot with basic M&T joinery. Do you size the tenon so the friction fit is just tight enough to stay put when holding vertically? I know you need some room for glue.

[@StumpyNubs]

That's correct.

[@claytonlemieux4090]

I use a tenon cutter jig and a regular saw blade then for the Mortis I use a square chisel with a bit

[@Yellow.Dog.]

Thank you, James! Getting ready to hit the shop when the weather cools a little. Any suggestions on dado blades? Seems I have lost mine in a shop move. Hope all is going well south of US10. Bill in TVC

[@StumpyNubs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6mXhpqur8Z1ZrM

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@gregmislick1117]

James - for tenons wider than the dado stack thickness do you: A) Make the shoulder cut on both faces first and then hog off the rest of the tenon waste or B) Start at the end and hog your way in until you make the shoulder cut. I've seen people use both methods, I was just curious if your experience has shown a best practice here. Your description indicates method B, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks.

[@StumpyNubs]

Either works. I usually start at the end and work toward the shoulder but there is little difference.

[@jessric5947]

I cut tenons first before my mortises. Idk they fit and work better for me. Great video btw.

[@Matt34677]

Do you have a video cutting tenons by hand?

[@andrewford80]

Thanks stubster!

[@OldBenOne]

@ 5:48 Yes and even if it doesn't take a chunk out of you it can fly across the shop, ricochet around and give you a heart attack.

[@cameronnebe]

Hahaha you said "fast, easy, and consistent". Introducing Fectool!

[@JukeboxJake]

Well I am going to provide a little kickback here. I have never had success with a dado stack. If the work pieces are not all the exact same thickness, like if there is snipe on the work pieces cut from the ends of boards, if the boards are a little warped (and they will be), if there is sawdust under the board, or if you apply an inconsistent amount of pressure in the cut, those tenons will not be consistent. Too many variables. The only way to do it on a reasonable budget is with a tenoning jig and a twin blade setup on the table saw. Perfect tenons every time, and no test cuts after you get the spacing right between the blades and write it down. I would love to see you do a video on it to spread the information. All you need is a shop built tenoning jig and two of the exact same table saw blades.

[@StumpyNubs]

Flat stock, good technique and a clean work surface are fundamentals of all good woodworking. See those stacks of tenoned workpieces sitting on top of the saw in the video? All precisely cut the same with no issues. I'm not saying this is the only good way to do it. I'm just saying the issues you list should be easy to overcome.

[@jazzgod21]

So i noticed when talking about long tenons, you mentioned going from the end to the shoulder. I usually hear people say cut the shoulder first. Does it matter?

[@StumpyNubs]

With a dado set, I don't believe it matters.

[@justkirk1925]

where is the link for the fence vises? Thought you said you'd leave a link - been trying to find those.

[@StumpyNubs]

Pinned to the top of the comments.

[@StumpyNubs]

Fence clamps ► amzn.to/3iH1wEV

[@ziomalZparafii]

Those Americans and their handy dados! ;-) Few days ago I did my first tenons, several passes for each side on a regular table saw and then a bit of sanding as table had angled tooths. 3x longer :)

[@davescott5335]

I was impressed by the bandsaw blade you used from Sawblade.com. I do a lot of small curves and it seems to me that this blade made some really tight curves. Can you tell me more about the blade (tpi, width, etc). I am wanting to order some new blades for my bandsaw and need 1/8, 1/4, and 5/8 blades. I use the 5/8 for resawing stock up to 10" wide. I am looking for a better blade. The on in this video seems to be what I would like. Thanks, Dave

[@StumpyNubs]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGjRaHqdabaCocU

[@steveroufas1938]

pardon me but, i don't see the link for the cab-saw fence clamps?? Or am I missing it?? They are a Rockler product??

[@StumpyNubs]

Pinned to the top of the comments

[@thameraldmak1883]

👌👍

[@dlwatib]

Pantorouter! Perfect fit every time.

[@johnathonnow]

The fence clamp link seems to be missing.

[@DKWalser]

You can find them at Rockler. Search for "Rockler Universal Fence Clamps".

[@StumpyNubs]

It's pinned to the top of the comments.

[@ivokolarik8290]

I have managed to gouge in my thumb while turning

[@dmcdara]

You said you would link to the table saw fence clamp. Am I just missing it?

[@StumpyNubs]

Fence clamps ► amzn.to/3iH1wEV

[@HMABH]

but if mortises were cut by hand, how can you be sure that the tenons you cut using a precise machine will fit every time?

[@servant74]

Now I need to watch how to cut the tennon pockets.

[@bobclifton8021]

Whatr's wrong with squaring off the ends of the mortise to match the tenon?

[@StumpyNubs]

As I said in the video, it's easier to round the tenons, in my opinion.

[@katabrontes]

Stumpy Nubs Yes but watch that rasp! You caught the edge of the shoulder.

[@iheardrain]

Sometimes I feel like you have access to my search history.

[@StumpyNubs]

Yes, we're going to have to have a little chat about that....

[@iheardrain]

@@StumpyNubs Ugh.. Just don't tell the wife. Thanks for the video!

[@pakinodiaz178]

Machine do it all,,,,

[@taintednougat]

HUZZAH!

[@id744]

Well, I screwed that up...

[@lochlanjones6819]

101

[@c.a.g.1977]

Don't call me Shirley.