Why You Shouldn't Sand your CARBON Bike Frame by Hand...

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[@Jimmidoesstuff]

I really should have had a backup plan.

[@domestique3954]

😂💦 At one time in life we all have to go through this painful process......🤙😂

[@zappenduster7]

Well, now you have a very "not nice" but unique-looking frame. Just a bit of clearcoat and fine. At least a few grams lighter.. Hope it works out in the end and you like the result.

[@hugog930]

For Sale £1k 🤣

[@domestique3954]

@@zappenduster7 In my experience the weight loss then is between 240-300 grams-and then primer+1-2 layers of clear coat, and then polishing the whole thing! 🤙

[@SuperDiddzz]

After the time spent for a not bad result I would have gone and smashed the granny out of my drum kit Jimmi ! If i had a drum kit of course ! Respects man.

[@malcontent510]

When Emily first walked outside, I imagined a thought bubble over her head that said "Idiots!"

[@mocat4]

I think once you have that frame completely sanded (6 months from now) you should paint it "F***ing Orange". That color will never go out of style.

[@austinpyke2616]

Take your sheets of sand paper and stick duck tape or another strong tape on the back of it then slice your sheet into strips. Hold both ends of your strip and pull back and forth over your frame as if you’re buffing it. Paint comes off much quicker and easier. Just keep repositioning your frame in the stand so you can pull your sandpaper strips towards the ground to get different areas

[@Jimmidoesstuff]

Niiiiice

[@Killuminati-X]

What grits do I need

[@shaunmaher6997]

I am reminded of the Father Ted scene where he starts trying to tap out a dent in his car, and we’ll comedy gold takes place 😂

[@MKDC5]

"It'll take ages and look very very average" - A+ support system

[@Charles_Bro-son]

There is this guy on KZbin who is a professional sprayer. He also states that you cannot sandblast a carbon frame, so he uses media-blasting with cherry stones. You might be interested in his channel, he goes by the name of ETOE.

[@TheNeelonRokk]

ETOE, and his team mate Wet Sandra. 😁

[@najaneda]

And he uses a much higher grit number sandpaper than they are using.

[@brianemunroe]

ETOE had a great video a while back on all the sanding supplies you needed...and as he pointed out...it is time consuming but doing a good job sanding will make your paint job that much better.

[@meonabike]

Recieved my attacus order today and now I see this video with Jimmi and Emily - I couldn't have a better evening 😍

[@niallkenyon9347]

GCN: Don't wear your bib shorts inside out Francis Cade: Don't sand your carbon frame by hand

[@CycoWarriorx]

The look on Emily’s face when she came outside... 😆😆😆😆 #Priceless 🍻

[@lindsayoakes3182]

Nice to see you out on the trail today. I was the overdressed mtb-er coming the other way as you left the moor after Hamsterley. Also nice that you and your buddy said hello :-)

[@Cade_Media]

always, hello!

[@scottthorpe1601]

Looking at all that effort, June/July looks goods

[@walcottav]

Good effort gents. Been down that road a few times myself. Many good Lessons learned to arrive at similar conclusion due to lack of time 1) send to the pro now, 2) build and/or sell transformed frame later, 3) secure replacement frame or bike now/ASAP (rely on the kindness of others, borrow, buy). It worked out well in the end, but I had a spare bike to ride in the interim.

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@JDirom]

Interested to see how it turns out. Might be a little late, but unless you are doing a paint job where you want to see the carbon, like a candy colour, you could have used 500 grit sandpaper to give the old coat ‘tooth’ and used the old job as a base. There is some risks, but if ‘average’ was the goal, you would be fine. Fun fact I painted the helmets for the British Bobsled Team for the Vancouver Olympics. Best of luck with the broke the gents!

[@tough5125]

Can’t ride for a couple of weeks now because of Covid. But there you are my Kind Mr. Cade!

[@kevinlyon9501]

Didn't realise Jimmi wanted to take it back to bare carbon, I just thought he wanted to paint it. It's very time consuming doing it by hand, looking at a Cam Nicholls vid the paint shop used electric orbital sander to get frame back to bare carbon and hand sanding the fiddly bits. Though if unfamiliar using something like that more risk of damaging the carbon. Good luck with it sure it'll come good.👌

[@elliottsill5992]

Keep going. Don’t give up 💪🏼

[@phillbullen3776]

I can imagine there are a lot of professional painters looking open mouthed at you efforts. And at the same time waiting for the phone to ring.

[@stuartedgar9988]

As a custom bike painter ( Summit Customs ) I feel your pain watching this and I wish we had a special paint zapper 😩

[@Cade_Media]

Good acting, but wee all know you have a secret paint zapper.

[@gethinap]

My initial reaction to the video title. Erm, didn't Jimmi want to sell that bike?

[@Jimmidoesstuff]

Still for sale. Now 30% more expensive.

[@gethinap]

@@Jimmidoesstuff Looked after by one careful owner 😆

[@dennissilber287]

I removed paint from a carbon fork using 320 grit wet to dry. It was a fair amount of work but the results were beautiful. The problem with sandpaper this fine is it clogs. But wet to dry with frequent rinsing of the paper with water is quite effective. Also there’s no dust.

[@SuperNeilB]

If I have to shift a lot of varnish on wood (same as removing paint) then I use a two handed cabinet scraper - same idea as the knife - to shift the bulk and then sand off what is left. You can get cabinet scrapers in all shapes so you can get into edges and go around corners.

[@teatime19]

I agree took me 8+hours to get my forks to bare carbon. Luckily my frame was ally so had it powder coated. You boys made me chuckle. Jimmy i feel your pain😂

[@ColdDarkNorth.]

Love Tom @kustomflow's work. Magician. 👏🏻👌🏻✊🏻

[@michaelthursby7271]

For the tougher to get areas you could use a Dremel with a small sanding tip? Might make things quicker too

[@ivanavramovic9837]

Jimmi’s jumper is amazing

[@TheBassallyear100]

i'd be scrapping the lacquered raw carbon look and spraying that frame a new colour or this endeavor will last longer than COVID! once the last of the stickers are gone and you have a smooth surface you will be good to go with a primer, base, finish and clear.

[@ianiscaratti4924]

I did a frameset in around 20h and it came out amazing. raced it for two seasons and now it is time to resand it with even finer sandpaper

[@Musketman84th]

Jimmi "we probably could kiss" 🤣

[@christiangerquest8937]

I bought 2 of original order of the Bleeping Orange Jerseys, which I consider the finest jerseys l have ever owned in my 53 years of riding and racing bikes, and would definitely want more of the them. Being that I have a crazy obsession with bright colors, after being dressed forest green and brown as a child, I would love love to see bib shorts in the Bleeping Orange. I know cycling shorts should always be black, purists would say, but would order many pairs if you made them! On a side note, tell Atticus that will be sending something for them, will also include something for you, as well as being a cyclist, I am an artist. So enjoy and all the best.

[@Cade_Media]

😎 thank you!

[@JamieVoto]

@@Cade_Media Just bought one of the Orange jerseys. Do one in blue like the blue gradient one!

[@thehandleiwantedwasntavailable]

I’m half way through a MADONE which has a lot of tight curves and tricky areas. 15 hours with wet 600 grit. I’m being incredibly gentle and largely using only the pressure of the paper. It looks amazing though!! The final design is carbon with some white. Can’t wait to start painting!

[@fruittsalad]

did you finish painting! Im starting my frame painting journey now and would love to know how it turned out!

[@invalice123]

orange jerseys are gone. that was quick! Jimmi sir, Khaki green bib tights, more white jerseys, orange jersey w/ matching orange socks to go with the navy bibs! ty sir.

[@markjthomson]

Big effort guys! There is a reason it is so expensive getting a re spray! As a comparison, a steel or aluminum frame in my flash paint removal machine (a plastic media blaster) would typically take about 30 minutes to remove all the paint. You don't put carbon frames in a plastic media blaster! Chemical stripping (using some evil chemicals) take about 60 minutes. Don't use chemical paint strippers on carbon frames as it will break down the resin holding the frame together. Most professionals prepping carbon frames will use a random orbital sander and hand sanding and I would expect 4 hour at least.

[@adnartmadmartm8718]

Can you use chemical stripping on carbon, though? I would expect the stripper to eat through the resin as well, not just the paint on top.

[@markjthomson]

@@adnartmadmartm8718 you are quite correct. I'll edit my comment.

[@meloncolic]

Like the look of the fork. Industrial Camouflage

[@robrobinson420]

Yes make jerseys in nice big sizes too it looks ace

[@auldgaelonabike]

The amount of labour required to strip and prep the frame explains (in part) the cost of a professional bike refurbishment. And, by the way, I love my ******* orange jersey!!

[@cb6866]

Aw dude....I am having my carbon frame repaired and painted , I am 8/9 in line and the place is 90k away. Here..there are a very limited number of places that will even try , so I am lucky. The other place that was recommended is in Cali, and its months and a hassle ! Emily is hilarious.."So, it's gonna take ages and look very, very average "? Yeah..I have other bikes, so I can still ride . Be safe, and thanks again Francis.

[@MrDox123]

Haa, haaa, haaaa... :) Oh man, I sympathize with you lads! If you only knew how long it can take ONE person to do the same job with 240 grit... Let's just say that 2 years ago I picked up this aluminium frame (courtesy of a bike coop) with excellent geometry and I went to town on it. Two weeks later I was in a position to switch gears and start putting paint back on. It's painstakingly tedious work but it's sort of cathartic at the same time. After the further two weeks of (good weather required if shooting outdoors) painting and clearing (matte), I built up the frame as a gravel bike with SRAM Force. Been riding it all summer and couldn't be more pleased. Though carbon seatposts and their propensity for dropping into the ST still has me scratching my head. Found a couple of techniques to prevent that from happening. First and foremost, don't use a post (that I had) that's of smaller diameter than required by the frame with the addition of a shim! %-] This summer I repeated the ordeal on a bike for my son but had the wisdom to have it media blasted by a local shop. Well worth the $40. However, it does come with drawbacks. Notably, make sure you mask your own threaded BB before handing over the frame. The blasting can really wreak havoc on the threads. They should have known better and masked it themselves considering how much of this blasting they do. I'd be especially careful going under 180 grit on carbon. Even on soft metal like Al, it's too coarse IMO. Maybe just to cut into the clear and main of the paint but switch off to 240 soapy wet after that. BTW, adding dish washing soap to the buckets (yes, plural) of water helps a great deal to "flow" the paper on the frame as well as keeping the paper free of paint grime. Also, the white stuff you sanded into is not exactly a "filler" but rather a primer. There are 1K filler primers (typically grey) which are polyester based and are good at filling out imperfections in the surface. On carbon though, I'd stick to 2K catalyzed epoxy based primer. 2K primer and clear is the best way to insure a durable hard finish IMO. The pigment paint chemistry is the least important when you use catalyzed substrate and top coats (e.g., SprayMax acrylic urethane) but I like using lacquer as it dries super quickly and can be recoated in 5 min. A filler primer is especially a good idea on a non bare frame (paint/primer residue still present to some extent) to "level" the surface prior to paint. As I'm sure you've discovered, painting is 60% prep, 30% masking and 10% actual painting.

[@adamcrebo2601]

1. Jerseys sold out in my size... boo! Make ONE more, just for me please. 2 I'd imagine a dremel with sanding tip would work wonders on the finer details. Likewise, one of those detail 'mouse' sanders with a fine grit paper would probably get through the frame easier but still be relatively safe. 3. Hate to say it, but P180 isn't fine by any stretch of the imagination in the world of paintwork / bodywork! For a really smooth finish, you'll want to end up around P2000 wet & dry...! Great video as always!

[@RebeccaMurray-uq2kh]

I really want Jimmy's jumper!!!

[@mandopando68]

Why are sanding it right down to the carbon ? To change the colour you just need to key it up then spray primer light sand before top coat

[@Jimmidoesstuff]

Not according to pros. Have to go down to primer.

[@mandopando68]

@@Jimmidoesstuff Na there talking shit mate .... Unless your going for a weight issue . I do quite a lot of hydro dipping on metal, wood & carbon I’ve never gone down to the raw material plus it will take multiple layers of primer And paint to get a decent finish ....

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@Martin-ql6ty]

Jimi watched too many Etoe videos. That guy makes it look easy.

[@stewdickson]

Can we get the thumbnail printed on an Attacus top? ...or better yet the backside of a pair of bib shorts? :D

[@jbratt]

Use a bit of soap with the water while wet sanding and the sandpaper will be more effective.

[@chrishopper8370]

I was listening to this through headphones, when Jimmy scraped that tool down the chainstays, my ears nearly exploded!!!

[@Cade_Media]

😱

[@jackpowell9276]

Thanks for your science.

[@110markb]

You know that yellow is the new black for 2021......mind you, Atticus Orange would look mint ( even though that is green).

[@eddysobieralski8075]

More Bleeping Orange jerseys please! Annoyed at myself...I snoozed and lost the last 3XL... 😒

[@jamessheard5498]

Jimmy is kinda right in my book. Although some prefer to finish off by hand as it gives the best prep for the new finish. You can blast carbon just not with sand or glass. Some cherry stuff apparently. I’ve also seen a stripper used to where you have to rap the frame up and it has to be in a warm room to get the stripper to activate. Another fun fact Carbon fibre IS 100% recyclable and has been for years. A video of how the blasting is done. I’ve also got a video for the recycling too. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6Srlmd_ZbqdoLM

[@gordonmckenzie9453]

YES. F'ing orange jersey ordered.

[@timtaylor9590]

i would only do my forks and hope the raw carbon looks cool, yea it may save 20-40 grams but then theres no clear coat protection either. maybe after sanding and a clear coat you can save 20-30 grams on forks? so its really just an aesthetics play

[@DanielHughesuk]

Feel your pain. Been there, done that... twice. #neveragain

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@gavva2010]

What if you're sanding a clear-coated carbon frame? How do you know you're thru the clearcoat, & not into the carbon?

[@MJarthur95]

Would be nice if Atticus have jerseys with a 4th pocket, one with a zipper for your phone. Would prevent me losing my phone every time I have to bunny hop over these potholes 😅! PS love the colours

[@stewpowell5249]

A German guy on KZbin uses a sand blaster that uses cherry seeds as the abrasive media (I think???) Which takes no time at all. I stripped my Cervelo P5 down for spraying and it probably took me 20 to 30 hours to do it properly fiddly bits take up a hell of a lot of time.... lol.

[@thecyclingfactor8055]

Haha, I took on the project to do two of my frames, one of which is a Giant TCX.... The paint was extremely thick, and what I found helpful was using a palm sander with 400 grit paper, takes the paint off fairly quickly. Want to stop when you only have a thin layer of primer left. Then wet sand with 600grit and then 2500 grit.

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@elliott3936]

Could you not have used paint stripper? Or is that bad for the carbon?

[@triplemax89]

Probably is a stupid question but, why don't you use a paint stripper?

[@simonguard5087]

Jimmy looking East17 Brian Harvey esq. Wouldn't paint stripper be easier, Ive just stripped a 1980's steel frame and it took forever! Feel your pain. I used Spray.bike think that's what it's called, really good paint.

[@richcole3931]

Is there electricity in England?

[@debelifratar]

You can blast it but with material much softer then sand

[@michaelhayward7572]

I'm no painter, nor paint expert, but surely a pro painter can spray on top of the old colour, once suitably prepped, ie rubbed back, suitably etched, filled, primed, top coat and lacquer?

[@cyclingdiabetic9573]

If only you knew! A heat gun will speed things along, but also makes it easier to screw up.

[@fergusdenoon1255]

I've done two frames/forks, a crank, two sets of pedals and a couple of seatpost, Stanley blade and a curved scalpel blade, no issues at all, no carbon dust.

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@fergusdenoon1255]

@@Klips005 I'm not sure what you mean, the blade glides on top of the carbon epoxy because its hard, the paint isn't hard, so you're just scraping off the soft layer, not cutting, the blade should be scraped at an angle 90degrees or less and not scraped at an angle that can cut into the project.

[@Klips005]

@@fergusdenoon1255 sorry I meant hand sanding after removing paint with blade, you sand to remove primer, let's say for a bare carbon look and most time you can see manufacturer imperfections or even accidentally sand through a little of the carbon removing epoxy....I was thinking reapplying epoxy resin

[@fergusdenoon1255]

@@Klips005 no, I don't sand to remove primer, I don't sand at all, the blade removes primer. Sanding removes carbon the blade doesn't, as soon as you see carbon dust with sanding you should stop. If you're looking to have a bare carbon look, then go for that "look" don't leave it as bare carbon, that's a bad idea, oil's can get impregnated into it and damage its structure, needs to be sealed with an epoxy compatable gelcoat which will give a glossy look, or if wanting matt use steal wool to buff it, or spray it with compatable lacquer. If you've really dug into the carbon you can build it back up using chopped carbon or pieces of carbon cloth (east coast fibreglass supplies) (easy composites Ltd) and epoxy resin, the resin has no streanth and is very brital without the carbon being used with it, easy composites has a KZbin channel that covers most types of carbon casting, forging, repairing, we'll worth checking out.

[@Klips005]

@@fergusdenoon1255 I understand thanks for your input, so actually this frame was UD carbon and epoxy resin based like all I presume but flushed in deep...there was no digging into any of the carbon on my part...and the paint was pretty old...so I ended up blading the paint off and hand sanding....once I saw carbon I could see it was strong still and just needed a re-coat of epoxy resin and a good leveling and buff job to the resin...it came out great and I've added very lite reinforcement with UD tape; but only to specific areas where I found the original manufacturer had molded two parts together....if there's any kind of failure, they would happen where those molds are I assume.... otherwise I tried my best to restore it keeping it's stiffness and flexible properties that where intended for the specific frame size and rider based on some hard to find research information 👍 I pray it goes well hah

[@jansalminen2584]

practice makes perfect. :) Sanding block would have helped a lot, if You are going to sand the frame and the fork by hand

[@randorecumbent]

I've got one of those special paint zappers. It'll cost you the price of a new brand new bike in custom color of your choice. So,.bike...or zapper?

[@phillp7232]

You actually did create the same amount of waste by sanding it compared with that knife method. By sanding you just liquified the microparticals with water... The water should be properly disposed of and not simply put into the waste water. Save the environment!

[@htukmumfie]

ok guys....Fibre lite in stokesly (in the north east) repair carbon, make carbon chainrings, etc and spray carbon top quality. good value.

[@30nabster]

Why not use an electric sander with finer paper??

[@overlandingfamily]

Hi not a small electric hand sander to save your hand/ arm. Also YOu don't have to go down to raw carbon to repaint the bike right?

[@thecyclingfactor8055]

If Jimmi is painting it another colour, he doesn't need to take all the paint off, as long as the finish is smooth.

[@sjmclean0]

Do a nice deep purple jersey. Would be so sick

[@joshuamonteith6901]

I've been toying with the same idea for 6 months now. Still toying with the idea as of 2 mins ago...

[@patrickparisienne1917]

Use paint stripper first! Takes away 80% of the paint, and grief prior to sanding...

[@joshuamonteith6901]

@@patrickparisienne1917 only problem is the chemical in the stripper are known to harm the carbon. I’ve done too many steel frames to trust that stuff it’s vicious

[@patrickparisienne1917]

@@joshuamonteith6901 I must say my experience is with high quality epoxy resin composites. I didn’t let in sit for more than a minute before removing, working in small sections at a time..

[@joshuamonteith6901]

@@patrickparisienne1917 I’m definitely going to look into it then because that would be a game changer!

[@mykweb]

@@joshuamonteith6901 Get it blasted. There are carbon safe blasting places. Check out Etoe Designs on youtube he explaines the differnces as well as why NOT to use paint stripper on carbon

[@grahames9228]

What's wrong with using some paint remover?

[@patrickparisienne1917]

Fun times! Having sanded down other carbon components and resprayed them, I would use a paint stripper first, then attack it with sandpaper. Start off sanding dry with free cut paper which doesn’t clog, to remove the colour, and THEN switch to wet and dry. I would recommend using long strokes. Either way, I’m sure there is pride in knowing the work put in.

[@Klips005]

What could one use if we went to far and into the carbons original epoxy resin with a project like this?

[@markwalker9147]

Surely you should have started with a coarser grit p60-p80 got the bulk of then moved to p120 moving through the grits is what makes sanding easier with wood work..... I’d think it’s the same with bikes.....

[@Jimmidoesstuff]

Pros say P120 is the harshest you should use.

[@mwcalder95]

Did you weigh it before and after??

[@coffeyr11]

Make more orange jerseys! Medium please!

[@garethskwarczek]

Most important thing i can comment on this, is that M&S do Percy Pig ice cream...

[@felixjackson2670]

Poor show guys. Just takes time! Did an old Ridley Road frame and spent an hour each day for about 2 weeks. Job done. Did my Carbon Hardtail frame and gave it to a sprayer to put clear lacquer. Looks great. Or can give it to a professional and wait two months before forking out a load of cash,just depends what you want...I started with 80 grit and cut through paint layers slowly but surely. If you get black dust STOP have hit carbon!

[@MrHockaluger]

I don't envy your efforts. Thankfully I prefer titanium frames with the brushed finish look. Any little imperfections buff right out with scotchbrite.

[@tomahoks]

Great idea, but I think I would have swapped them to desired colored parts.

[@gregschramm8180]

Don't give up you can do it

[@JakeMay]

The polar opposite of ASMR 😂

[@markrushton1516]

was it not cheaper in time/effort/tears to get it shot blasted?

[@mikeyseibert1406]

Ok I custom paint Bmx race bikes. A lot of carbon and carbon forks. You can media blast it with crushed walnut shells.

[@deadpool8340]

Jimmy looking like the Wish version of BANE!!!

[@Cade_Media]

😂😂😂😂😂

[@davidlenneberg4303]

Airgun and ground up walnut shell that works well on carbon frames

[@JeffOehlsen]

Do you really need to get all of it off? I thought you just need to prep the surface so the new coat will stick

[@Cade_Media]

the new coat will be a clear lacquer, jimmi wants it to be raw carbon underneath so it all needs to go!

[@JeffOehlsen]

@@Cade_Media He has the madness. LOL

[@mikedouglas6172]

Nitromors work on carbon frames?

[@markledger6514]

More custom jerseys please.

[@serdiezv]

It's not raw carbon, but transparent black gives a lot of homogeneity to bases that don't look that good

[@miz47]

Sanding a bike by hand is a very time consuming task. The way you know you are progressing is when you can see the carbon underneath. You guys are progressing, it is just that sanding can last for days. But make sure you be very neat with your sanding because your sanding is the very foundation of how great your paint will be at the end.

[@Lsantos78]

The best way to remove the paint is with sharp knife, then sand paper to smooth the surface

[@nibbs15]

Oh cool Sanding a bicycle

[@mdyer02]

You 2 proper make me laugh!!

[@Jimmidoesstuff]

😃

[@symbiantscycling]

Jimmi has the same workstand as me

[@jespernohr]

Might have watched a few of @EtoEGermany videos ;)

[@Trebornotaes]

DH airbrush designs could sort this im sure.

[@thegrizzlys]

sanding steel frames is just as little fun.