Will it work?

[@adambergendorff2702]

Thanks for showing even the failed part!

[@DesktopMakes]

Ha! I really thought I was going to get it in one try. Happy to show failures! It's never as polished as it looks 🙂

[@chuckwharton3549]

Another great preso. Thanks for using the term “clearance” and not “tolerance” which is often used in this culture and grates on my drafting background. (“Tolerance” refers to an acceptable dimension’s range, as in +/- 0.03”)

[@usafa1987]

Nice series, Vlad. I like that you showed your failures and issues. It makes our craft more approachable for students/beginners if they realize that we go through lots of iterations before making the perfect part. BTW, for this design, there is no requirement for the snap-in section to be circular (and thus printing with the bridging and needing to be cleaned up). That could easily have been a triangle that would have printed fine with no overhang issues.

[@DesktopMakes]

Good point. I think someone else had mentioned this and I didn't quite understand what they were saying. It's easy to bring in constraints from other manufacturing methods into 3D printing. It's not till it's pointed out or you sit with the part a bit that you realize, "why did I do it that way". Thanks!

[@the_runofff]

Awesome vid, I've had my bambu p1s for a few weeks and didn't know about "By Object" printing, nor auto place or auto orient!

[@noweare1]

We did not do a clearance on the pin, but that happening just made the series that much more realistic, thanks. I use UltiMaker Cura and it doesn't have all the option of your slicer software for some reason.

[@DesktopMakes]

Yeah, I learned the hard way about forgetting the pin clearance 🙂 Cura should have very similar settings. Which ones are you having trouble finding.

[@miketkapp]

Vlad, these projects are awesome. somehow you always teach me something new. Thank you!

[@DesktopMakes]

Thanks Mike!

[@yigitalpdikmen]

Thanks !

[@DesktopMakes]

Welcome!

[@kwigbo]

For the top of the hole, modeling in a teardrop works pretty well.

[@DesktopMakes]

Thanks, I've seen this technique but have actually never tried it. I may have to experiment with it.

[@AsterDreamweaver]

Your print for the rack should have been left sideways so the teeth would be printed on the same plane as the layers. By printing with the teeth up, they will be weaker and the walls won't be as smooth.

[@DesktopMakes]

Yeah, I think you're right. I was rethinking that orientation after posting the video.

[@ruthlessluder]

I think if you made that front lip taller, then the gear wouldn't be able to slip out.

[@Afro3dprinter]

Linking your vids, been subbed for some time.👍

[@DesktopMakes]

Thanks Afro3dprinter!

[@whitecastlept]

Hello Vlad you also forgot to do a clearance in the pin where base and pin join together.