Willys L Head Engine....Camshaft and Timing Gear Installation

[@michaeldulaney2497]

Good video. I have never seen a camshaft with such sharp lobes before.

[@charlespayne1061]

Every time I see that fiber gear it puts a smile on my face.

[@RADIOACTIVEMASCULINITY]

Good stuff as always!! Really hope to see an AMC V8 build one of these days 💪

[@vickieday5269]

I always enjoy your videos and shared knowledge.

[@metalshaperJeep]

I appreciate that!

[@gman4937]

Thanks for another great, informative video Brian. Always enjoy your videos.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Thanks for watching!

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Great to have you back making videos, sorry we are just getting back this morning to watch, but that estate sale buy out from the 1st -thur 5th really gave us a whoppen (@@)! Bear.

[@kenthedenstrom4099]

Thank you another helpful video 📹

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad it was helpful!

[@ginacoronel6872]

Thank you for another great video full of knowledge and useful tips!

[@metalshaperJeep]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@mattmerrell3010]

I’ve just purchased a 48 Willys Cj2a and although I’m very new to restoring this cj I’ve been searching the internet for trustworthy advice and videos I can learn from. Yours are very informative. Ok, to the point. The Willys came with no timing chain cover, no oil slinger, no gasket no crankshaft pulley and no spacer. What is the proper sequence for putting all of this back on? Was hoping that your recent video would show it. Any advice would be greatly appreciated

[@Scratchthejeepguy]

Off topic but I thought I'd ask... I'm trying to separate the engine from a transmission on a 2A drivetrain I have, as I need the tranny. There is no sheetmetal on the frame so it's easy to get to everything. But the main shaft of the tranny won't separate from the clutch. It's so rusty I can't tell if it's rusted to the clutch or the pilot bushing but I think it's rusted to the clutch. When I pulled the inspection cover off, I pulled about 2 ice cream buckets of mouse nest out of there which I'm assuming is what held the moisture in there for so long. This has been sitting for at least 20 years in a barn. I have all the bell housing to block bolts removed, as well as the tranny to bell housing bolts removed, and there is enough gap to get my large crowbar in. The engine is still bolted to the frame, and the T- case is not. The clutch release fork, bearing, and carrier are loose. I've soaked the shaft with PB Blaster and turned the crank (moves easily) so it gets to all sides of the shaft. I've even lifted the back of the engine up letting the tranny drop so hopefully the shaft goes a little crooked so the oil can get deeper while turning the crank. I've been tryin a crowbar in the inspection cover also. Won't budge, any ideas?

[@metalshaperJeep]

if you can't pry it apart after soaking it for a while then it must really be rusted tight. I go thru the inspection cover of the bell housing and cut the input shaft to remove the transmission.

[@Scratchthejeepguy]

@@metalshaperJeep thanks for the reply, I ended up pulling the 6 pressure plate bolts through the inspection cover, then it came off with a few prys.

[@commodoremax]

If you put a plug in the main oil galley, how are the timing gears lubricated?

[@noneckjoe948]

Hey Brian, when you replace the two front hat channel supports on a cj5 ( the ones that once had wood in them on the kick panel)… Do you replace the wood or leave the hat channel hollow? Thanks.

[@metalshaperJeep]

Regarding all hat channel. you can replace with wood as original, or seal the wood before installation. You can use another material that won't rot away, such as various plastics. Or you can leave them with nothing in there and if a bolt goes thru just weld in a tube before installation so it doesn't crush when you tighten the bolt. A good idea is to coat the inside with weldable primer before welding them in for extra protection. Brian