"Window Installation Pt. 2" Build Show Build: Boston Ep. 8

The Schüco windows are here and ready for install! Steve walks you through the installation process and what features are different on these European flangeless windows. Next, Steve walks you through proper air sealing and water management techniques in his home studio with Big Red.
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[@Padoinky]

Liking these “build-nerds”series… architecture- a science of integrated systems, mixed w/ the art of design

[@user-pe9ue2hd3y]

From the start, Ryan was very helpful and is continuing to be helpful about his kzbin.infoUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans . Also, they have answered all the questions I have asked & I got outstanding support from his My Shed Plans full package.

[@Kanal103]

I've been waiting really long for this episode. I feel much more confident installing windows on my tiny house now. Thank you Steven, another great episode!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Go for it

[@weekendwarrior3420]

It's refreshing to see someone who can legibly show what he knows. It's pretty rare to find on utube.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you for the kind words - and thanks for joining in

[@p.f.5718]

I am venting with full open Window. It’s a lot more quicker as to tilt up - and in Europe it is very common to full open the window not only to clean it. Love from Austria/Europe 🇦🇹

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Back atcha

[@kendv4299]

Steve..You are doing a gtreat job of explaning the install process and the required details. Am lookiing forward to the next videos👍

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I appreciate you joining us

[@glennakam]

My favorite new windows - thank you Steve 👍

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Welcome - thanks for joining in

[@davidsorokovsky8612]

Fantastic detail and thank for sharing the assembly details at end of video 👌👌👌

[@boeing757pilot]

Great video, Steve! I especially appreciate the studio explanations. Thank you!

[@rcmen231]

Steve is the best. Thanks for the explanation

[@MegsCarpentry-lovedogs]

Yupee! I was waiting for this episode to come out...awesome! 👍☺🇨🇦

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you for joining in

[@mw7145]

Great install series! I really appreciate the breakdown review of the details at the web me. Awesome job, thank you!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you for joining in

[@eugeniustheodidactus8890]

🚀 *This series will be a tough act to follow!* Very thoughtful and enjoyable. Beautiful house.... Your lucky clients! ♥

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you - and thanks for joining in

[@JJ-mx4ux]

Thank you @stevenbaczekarchitect9431 . I am just a layman interested in building science. This was the best explanation of these concepts that I have ever seen. Your clients are very lucky to have you. I am more and more convinced that flangeless windows installed as you've shown is THE way to go. One additional plus is that if the window ever needs to be replaced, you don't have to disturb the cladding to install the replacement window--and the replacement can be installed fully properly with all the redundant water management layers in place. It seems really hard to replace a flanged window in a brick-clad house that is using Tyvek for bulk water control, for example. This system you showed just seems better all the way around.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you for joining in

[@GFrenchy1955]

Years ago when I was in the lumber business we used to put extra blocking in to the top of the window on both sides to allow for connecting drapery rods and the like. Hate using hollow wall anchors.

[@donnybrasco6321]

GREAT advice!

[@luishumbertochavezrodas3619]

really solid advice, very thoughtful

[@ronallara2406]

Thank you for sharing. Great information

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you for joining in

[@justincabral1150]

"All building assemblies are systems. They are not components, they are systems." This is why you can't take any old set of building plans and shoehorn in some building science magic to make it passive house or [insert trendy label]. This one thought alone from Steve perfectly encapsulates all good building science. Buildings are complex systems. Any approach to a building that doesn't understand how any one modification might affect the rest of the systems will usually result in a failure of one or more of those systems.

[@jeremyjedynak]

Wow! Steve works fast when flashing a window!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Could never make money at it - I can draw the detail faster lol, but thanks for noticing

[@davidhorton4611]

really good information!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thank you and thanks for joining in

[@patrickkenny2077]

While I enjoyed the episode, I had been looking forward to it and found myself hoping for a little more. I was also a little put off by some of the repetition between cuts in the field if you wanted to streamline things in the future it would be appreciated. Some clips of the installation of the big windows would also be nice from a logistics standpoint. One of the things that I wish you highlighted was that if the windows needed to be replaced how that works (and how your water management system is maintained) using the euro-windows.

[@ericlebarron]

My favorite part is the warp speed.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Mine too - next up, I may RED LINE.......

[@ccvideotech]

Great video, loving this series! In my head the center flash tape on the window would go in first and the corners would shingle over that. No?

[@brianwilliams6113]

Loving all the useful information in all of the Build videos. I’m designing my own home, and currently selecting windows… question: polycarbonate triple glazed windows, yes or no and why, also will Shuco work with poly?

[@guylambrechts2303]

Maybe the thermal bridge can be solved by 'doubling' the Rip Sill and the RFS with 2" or 3" of insulation in the middle.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Possibly - next generation.......thought about it here, but seems like alot of work for so little return.....I will continue to ponder....Thanks

[@stevendobson9626]

I always love your content. When you demonstrated sealing around the inside of the window, you didn’t extend the tape over the straps. This made me wonder, how do you seal around the straps?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I mentioned they will get ground off inside the RO, then taped.

[@donnybrasco6321]

“If it doesn’t last, it doesn’t matter” AWESOME underlying context, Steve👍 All things considered, what’s your life-span estimate for this system of yours?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

These windows probably have a 100yr lifespan (at least), the system will outlast that

[@donnybrasco6321]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Wow - NICE! I saw some of the comments/complaints about pricing - I know it should always be a consideration, but for all you get with these windows (ROI) - dang - I’m going to apply the “buy once, cry once” mentality = peace of mind 👍👍). Great videos, sir - looking forward to the next!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@donnybrasco6321 Thanks for joining in

[@alexburi]

Hi Steve, great video. You consistently point out and explain all the small details I have questions about, like how to create a level surface to place the window on if you're using bevelled sills. A question related to heavy windows in this scenario: if they windows are quite heavy (500-900 Ibs), I assume those reverse cedar shims might not be strong enough to support that weight?

[@bricelangston8634]

Those windows are weather resistant barriers. A lot of other windows have the performance of the defensive line of the 2008 Detroit Lions.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

You give them that much credit?

[@bricelangston8634]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I started answering your question with a very long answer....The type of windows have a better design, better reinforced, more efficient material usage, better install, better sealing solution, more energy efficient. Theses type windows should be the US standard, in the double should be the exception and used with a building design creates a constraint.

[@boydbuck377]

Fabulous Video Series! In a previous video set of details, you installed the window directly on top of the 1x3 back dam. Here you are using the counter shims on the sloped cedar. Interested to know what led you to choose each system. Also, you have specified Tremco Acoustical at the joint between the Zip-R foam and the (2x6) rough sill, what is the purpose of this seal?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

This detail has better water management, on top of the backdam I am comfortable with as long as the overhangs are significant 24"+.........The tremco was for an above average aggressive approach to air tightness, with likely no flash of CCSF on the cavity side

[@JosephHuether]

It should be noted that the IRC makes those "step-by-step" manufacturer's installation guidelines enforceable code requirements and that having copies of them on site and followed is mandated by Code. That goes for virtually all of these building components.

[@danl.4743]

Really enjoyed the detail drawing in the end. Thanks for that. They "should have / could have", trimmed these brackets at the shop. Should have visited the site or see the drawings and know they don't need to be that long. I'm curious, does Schuco always use these brackets for installation? Nice episode. Thank you.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Yes - they are pretty standard

[@coasttal123]

I see a potential condensation problem with this design depending upon climate. You have an R9 exterior, and R13 spray foam. I would be concerned that the temperature on the inner face of the R13 spray may have condensation and could be soaking the batt insulation. Remember that you only get condensation on a solid surface. I would suggest at least 4" of closed cell on the inside of that wall cavity, again depending upon climate location. If this is Texas, you are OK, if this is MN, probably an issue.

[@brianlewis8370]

Steve, will you be showing how the dry wall is installed with these types of windows? I was wondering if there was going to be a bump/bulge where the window bracket is screwed into the frame.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Yes sir, no bulge, the opening will get furred out and the drywall will be recieved by a FRYE Reglet (J channel)

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Thanks for joining in

[@luishumbertochavezrodas3619]

I have a question, why is the air barrier (zip system) outside the insulation (polyiso+cell foam)? Isn't it the other way around? The zip system directly on the framing and then the continuous insulation outside?

[@coasttal123]

ZIP sells the panels in R3, R6, R9, and R12. I use the R6 panels and can actually use them for shear using 16d ring shank, in a 3/4 pattern, blocked edges. Huber warrants this.

[@hu5tle-]

This clips sure make it a PITA for taping and backer rod, since you can't do continuous pieces.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

They certainly add some challenges

[@user-hp7fv4xi9g]

Thanks for doing these videos! Question about sealing the inside of the window. Are you suggesting 3 options? Foam, backer rod and big stretch and siga tape? Or are you saying use foam or backer rod with the big stretch and then cover with the siga tape?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

yes - any of the options and finish with tape

[@coasttal123]

Depends on the gap to be filled. I prefer backer rod as the 1st line of defense, because spray foam can shrink a bit over the long term.

[@ronallara2406]

By the way, in the county were I live, the windows flashing's installation and exterior seal, required a county inspection.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Alot of countries require that inspection

[@yurishnirman3847]

When we install schuco system we typically use Dow 795/756 silicon; commercial application. Applied inside and outside. Minimal gap is 3/8 for silicon. cannot use silicon once it gets less than that. Its due to the movement requirements. We tried Siga tape before due to architect request, but it does not stick to silicon. so got to be careful about the tape.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Very good

[@garyjuvinall7100]

Steve, Matt I've recently discovered your terrifically informative videos while embarking on a replacement window project for a home I build 32 years ago in Southeastern, MA coastal community; thank you! I've been looking at the Schuco windows at EUR Arch Supply in Littleton, MA; I've decided the Euro style windows are the best approach versus the top US brands which in my view are inferior products. My application is a traditional Nantucket style cape with 2x6 construction, exterior plywood sheathing, building wrap and finished with white cedar shingles; nothing unusual in this area and era of build. I've been trying to resolve how best to deal with the Sill area and water management with the new windows. Looking at your cross-section drawing (thank you!) I like the use of the cedar siding and counter shims for allowing water run-out and leveling of window base. My question is how do I best manage the water that will now flow between my shingles and building wrap; do I just accept that this is the case and say it's better than having it run behind the building wrap. Your section view shows a 3/8" rainscreen space, however I don't see a practical approach to accommodate this on an existing structure with the shingled siding. Also, I see under your exterior sill you specify 1/4" x 1-1/2 w straps 8" oc.. I presume these simply to lift sill and allow water management. I'll appreciate any comments in reply. Thank you.

[@coasttal123]

I live on the coast of SC and Schuco could not give me impact and high wind data for a hurricane zone. Good windows, but I cannot use for my local.

[@garyjuvinall7100]

@@coasttal123 Thank you for reply, currently the town is not requiring hurricane windows.

[@user-jh2vz4mz8y]

Hi, thanks for sharing the technique. Maybe a dumb question, are these aluminum windows or PVC windows?

[@scottrodman4017]

they are aluminum

[@wesmatson5921]

the weep holes get plugged with dust/dirt/etc, must be cleaned manually several times a year.

[@user-oe5qv5uz1m]

I saw in Part 1, the window example that you were discussing with Spencer from Schuco had packers on the bottom and sides of the window; however, the few videos you have done on European style windows, I have not seen any packers installed. I am installing some European style windows soon, and their installation instructions calls out very specific areas around the window where packers should be installed for load transferring. What is your take on the use of packers for European window installations?

[@jessegriffin9]

It'd make more sense if you put flashing tape (middle piece) first and then corner tape?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I don't think it matters, I should have turned the sill piece up the jamb, 45 cut the corner, then apply the corner over.....or vice versa.....

[@coasttal123]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 For inset windows, I think liquid flash will offer the best chance for success. I have found that concave corners are not the best for tape.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@coasttal123 I would agree in a perfect world......however, experience suggests that tape is more friendly that goop, and success usually relies heavily on the install, rarely the material....

[@chancemows]

With the tape on the inside, how do you deal with the metal brackets? Do you just float the tape over them?

[@thursdaythought7201]

He replied to another comment regarding this so I’ll just pass it on. He said that you cut off the straps and tape past where you cut them, so the straps are completely covered by tape.

[@wantsomething3319]

Where's the factory tour video? I haven't missed one from this series, and really would like to see the tour! Please direct me to it, thanks. Jayman...

[@wantsomething3319]

Sorry, found it and realized I had to stop at the beginning of frame assembly. Just watched the rest. Impressive production, and product. Jayman...

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

My man Jayman check out "Window Installation Part 1"

[@wantsomething3319]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 thanks for replying Steeveo, but like I said, I had to bail at the frame assembly part of part 1, but went back to finish, then watched part 2. For the thousandth time, thank you for this series, and your detailed explanations in the video, and with big red. Jayman...

[@captainalex8704]

Why doesn't the sill flashing go under the corner flashing?

[@impalaon22inchrome]

I have a hard time accepting this because I don't feel this is a proper shingling technique. Suppose condensate accumulated enough to roll to the bottom of the preformed corner, it's going to run into a seam and not roll over it. Am I wrong?? I only question bc there is never a dumb question when it comes to waterproofing. Love all build show videos.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

What didn't make the cut was a piece over the preformed corners to ensure that doesn't happen

[@impalaon22inchrome]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 if that is the case and the verticals overlap those pieces....then all is rt in the waterproofing world.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@impalaon22inchrome I'm actually going to see the tape/corner manufacturer and discuss the shorthanded nature of their corners

[@impalaon22inchrome]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 thank you for taking the time to answer my concerns. Continue your great work sir.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@impalaon22inchrome I consider these videos a discussion, not a lecture, we all learn something thru discussion

[@jayruane3898]

Does bigger glass not mean bigger frame? So more of the lower value overall?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Yes bigger windows are lower cost/sqft - but obviously higher in cost

[@Zickafoose2024]

How do these windows handle screens?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

The operable ones have them

[@josecito976]

Is Schuco now manufacturing in the US? If so how, has that decreased the cost?

[@2233sc]

Their uPVC line is pretty reasonable. I compared them with American clad wood windows and they were considerably less (~40%).

[@alpenglowwindow22]

Schuco windows are being fabricated in in several locations in the US, Canada, and Mexico. We are a Schuco dealer in Colorado.

[@thompson4620]

Having lived in Germany for 10 years, this video of Germany windows in an American house makes me feel fuzzy. German windows are the best. I am glad they are built in the USA!

[@lb7wade518]

I understand adhesives have come a long way the last 10 years! How is this tape to last 50-70 years! Curious about the testing of these tapes! The Texas heat will destroy it

[@DD-xz1ec]

The window can really get to 0.13 U factor? It is surprising for aluminum windows.

[@mitchdenner9743]

So why are we not sealing the bottom inside?

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

we are 22:15

[@mitchdenner9743]

Sorry, could of swore you specifically said the bottom was not covered. Sucks getting old.👍

[@danl.4743]

@@mitchdenner9743 Meh. Try being a teenager.

[@johnwhite2576]

Steve if one was doing drywall returns, how do you handle those clips that are proud of the rough opening? That’s going to cause drywall to stick out on sill AND wall where you didn’t trim the clips flush with rough opening

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Drywall always gets padded out - same for wood trim

[@coasttal123]

Side grinder.

[@mitchdenner9743]

Pella needs to take note on how these windows were packaged and delivered damage free.

[@ykciR]

You expect a cheap window manufacturer to go overboard on the packaging? Lol

[@mitchdenner9743]

@@ykciR yes I do, $1600 windows are not exactly cheap, and if your referring to the quality, they are well built wood windows, triple pane, aluminum clad exterior. The best that I could afford at the time. As much as I would like to bash pella windows for all the aggravation and lost time they caused me , I can definitely say they are not cheap in any way.

[@Padoinky]

We’ve custom built 6 of our 12 homes, over the last 30 yrs, ranging in size btwn 3k-6k sq ft - always used jeldwend window systems

[@BrianBriCurInTheOC]

Steve please use different colors to draw ✍️ this… Maybe do it on a computer drawing ✍️ on a pad…

[@andreycham4797]

Common practice in Europe to install those windows is to bring that window out in foam and instead of 2 by 8 to use special saddle made of high density xps foam.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Yes, it is a great system. I have seen it over there. That system is also based on a masonry frame

[@andreycham4797]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 another way of doing it in my opinion would be to use T-stud instead of 2 by 8

[@dan9874123]

A couple years in the future "why does this one window leak at the bottom?"

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

See, if you knew anything about window leakage, you would understand that most windows leak from the upper frame. Even if water gets in, there is no force to drive it in as it is managed to fall to gravity.

[@dan9874123]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Great video, was just joking about the architect putting the tape on :). One think I would like to see a bit of in these videos is how to apply the tape over the clips and at the corners, doing that properly is probably the hardest part of the install.

[@welewisiii]

Installs like a replacement window not impressed. should have a flange i have many questions about such methods in a coastal community. your trust in zip as an infallible water barrier worry me as well.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

I would like to see your side, but these are the most widely used windows in Europe. Probably the biggest failure in window installation is the logic behind most installations, you suggest the windows should be flanged, to keep water out? Good luck, your never keeping all the water out, and the bigger question is, what happens when water gets in? How does it get out? Ask away your many questions, I just did a home on the Ocean coast with 90 windows, house in service for 4 yrs now, no problems?? Lastly, what is it about the Zip tape? I took two pieces of Zip from my first project ever using Zip. I taped them together and have left them outside for over 13 years now, the tape adhesion is as good as day 1

[@coasttal123]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Steve, while we do not always agree on everything, I do appreciate you put details on paper that rarely other architects or designers do.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@coasttal123 I respect all respectful discussions. I don't agree with alot of professionals, some I work with regularly, but that keeps the discussion relevant - thank you for joining in

[@racerx6384]

The window is R5 who cares if that 1.5 inch x window width rip sill is R8.

[@av1204]

funniest part is they will spend all this money on these turn tilt windows and spend twice as much for mechanical ventilation and then will never open those.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Less than half of these are operable, and of those, half of them are required

[@av1204]

@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I would just meet the minimum egress requirements. Maybe ones that are hard to access from the outside. There are very few people, especially people in custom homes who will ever open a window.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@av1204 when I have the conversation with my clients they have a very hard time giving up operable windows in many cases. I'm with you, egress + a couple......thanks for joining in

[@johnmarquardt1991]

Great windows but the price is not affordable.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Debateable - they do have a Upvc option that as a triple glazed option will rival most double glazed options

[@ASIRIDesigns]

Define "affordable". I'd argue if you're building your dream home, you budget for good windows that will last the lifespan of the building, rather than replacing some leaky vinyl home depot windows in 10 years.

[@jesinbeverly]

@@ASIRIDesigns C'mon There's a lot of options, performance and pricing between Shuco and Home Depot specials.. I'm facing these choices with my own "dream house" build and there is a budget. A "Pretty Good" window makes the project actually possible.

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@jesinbeverly Schucco UPvc will rival any window on the market, especially if you consider the windows as part of your HVAC/pricing

[@johnmarquardt1991]

@@ASIRIDesigns Leaky depends on how they are installed ... even these thousand+ dollars windows are not installed correctly they will be leaky.

[@TheGazaMethodChannel]

Nobody ever shows how they finish the trim on the outside bottom. And they never show a test of the window hit with water-and it draining behind the siding to the ground. Nobody. Just drawings and talk and talk.

[@richiebrown4847]

Jesus loves you bro! It’s gonna be okay!

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

@@richiebrown4847 AMEN

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

Could be because we haven't done the siding episode yet, will be part of it, and maybe a little talk

[@JTamilio]

That would require doing the construction sequence a little different, but might be worth it to reassure everyone (including ourselves) that this is really doing what we expect…

[@Agent77X]

This guy is not a carpenter or a pro installer! LOL!

[@randydesrochers2884]

Worst window install I have ever seen.....

[@stevenbaczekarchitect9431]

"Worst you have ever seen" Well at least I did something Great!!!!.....I just checked to see if you had any enlightening info on your page, as predicted useless search. See, intelligent people can say a comment like that, but that is because they can back it up with a solid alternative argument..........Stupid people, well they just say stupid things.....Here's a little Mark Twain in the evening for ya...."It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool than to open it and remove all doubt."

[@danl.4743]

Please elaborate.

[@TheDirtyBirchTrails]

And I thought you were going to show us how to install Windows 11 Pro ? LMAO 🤣