Window Restoration Workshop

[@jessdinsmore7757]

Your explanation on energy loss was absolutely on point.

[@BrentHull]

I appreciate that

[@graemeeasterbrook4931]

Good talk , I’ve watched a few of your talks today and really like the information you are sharing. I’m a joiner and restore and re-make windows in Sussex and Surrey in the south of the UK on grade 2 listed buildings , I love the work and making the building look beautiful again , and really enjoy watching good informative videos like yours . I don’t know how often you upload but I’ll be waiting 😄👍 good job , well done ..

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for finding me. I try to upload on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Stay tuned. Let me know what you think.

[@John-cb6wn]

Many year ago I had a house that was built in 1926 all of the trim was Chestnut l decided to restore 8 windows remove all the sashes I used paint remover and bought it down to the bare wood, removed all the loose glazing and then sanded the sash primed and then painted it Dutch Boy oil high gloss white when I was done they looked absolutely beautiful, I had the storm windows and screens which were in bad shape, I did replace them with aluminum storm windows, I also learned how to cut glass by using the old storm windows, I really enjoy your show

[@BrentHull]

Greatness! Thanks for sharing.

[@anna-sophialeone7673]

Thanks for helping me to see wood in an entirely new way.

[@anna-sophialeone7673]

^my century+ windows are metal, and in remarkably good shape, but I need new storms and there wood working require in house that I'll approach differently after seeing this.

[@BrentHull]

Glad to help. Thanks for watching!

[@BrentHull]

Good! send pics, sounds interesting. I'd love to see.

[@helenaneumann1872]

Very informative. Thanks very much! I didn't replace (all) my old windows with new ones either. I sandblasted the layers of paint on the windows, doors and stairs. The result is great. I then took over the further treatment myself with my Wagner spray system.

[@BrentHull]

Congratulations. So glad it helped.

[@carmencolon3520]

Excellent workshop. Thanks

[@BrentHull]

Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@urbanlumberjack]

These talks are awesome. Really appreciate the discussion on wood type.

[@BrentHull]

Cool. Thanks for watching.

[@brokenglass849]

Excellent video. I'm happy to see someone is encouraging people to save their old windows. New double glazed vinyl windows are too air tight, unless you have an air exchanger, they create an unhealthful environment of stagnant air. You need to have some fresh air to find its way into your house - old windows do that. Also as you pointed out, classic windows add an incredible amount of character to a home, new, double-glazed one dimensional windows, with faux muntins, do not. The way these windows are trimmed (if you could call it that) on the exterior, doesn't help.

[@BrentHull]

Agreed!!! Thanks for sharing.

[@wconstructionco]

They are not too tight 😂 they are ugly and only good for a decade or so. Also, spend some money, most manufacturers are available with real divided lights. All this from a person who makes sashes.

[@toddeyster7557]

I have been using a hand steamer to soften the glazing. It is helpful but still tedious. I have no access to wavy glass in my area so I am trying to preserve as much as possible. I got a tip from Gary Cernoch (he built my kitchen window) to polish your glazing knife with steel wool. I wish I were not 8 hours away as I would love to be able to come to the events in person.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for sharing the tips. Cheers!

[@johnalvitre3154]

Love the work. I agree on the windows. I have taken a larger window sash and cut it down for my window frame so I can keep that old growth wood in place. I was curious if you like to use the access panel to the weights or if you find it easier to just pull the trim when the window is in place in a wall. Only once did I have a window without an access point down low, I used the multitool to clean them up or in that case make them. I used to use points, but your silicone trick is one I will add to the toolbox for sure. Thank you. I am just starting to do this for my neighborhood. Lots of old homes and very little skill in the area. I am in the Old West End of Toledo Ohio, (Historic District.)

[@BrentHull]

Thank you! Please keep up the good work. Weight pocket access is difficult in my opinion, where it is an option, removing the casing is much easier.

[@ikust007]

Will listen

[@BrentHull]

Thanks.

[@ikust007]

@@BrentHull thank you for your work. I am a SG artisan.

[@rodneypatete]

Can you tell (other than the type of wood and glass) the quality of the window manufactured by the number of glazing points used? Also, what temperature setting should you set your heat gun on if you have to use it to remove the glazing? I’d imagine that you wouldn’t want to replace a second or third pane of glass because there was a severe temperature difference between the glass and the heat being applied because it’s not tempered.

[@BrentHull]

Hi, thanks for your questions. The number of glazing points does not determine quality, Rather, the thickness of the sash, (thicker is better) and the quality of frame construction, fully closed weight pocket, quality of sloped sill, etc. I would balance the heat with speed and burning. Sometimes the heat is so high, it can singe the wood. You don't need to worry about the glass, your real goal is to soften and loosen the putty glazing so it speeds removal. Good luck.

[@RandomJHK]

What about sound insulation? Arent newer windows better at keeping out sound because of the double pane? Here in Los Angeles, it's strong consideration.

[@BrentHull]

Actually, you can look at the Data. Insulated glass units are not great at sound prevention. If you are concerned about sound, laminated glass is much better. There is a measure of this called STC or Sound transmission class. Single pane scores. 29, thin IG scores a 28 and laminated a 35. When an old window is weather-stripped properly, it performs great.

[@toddeyster7557]

My wife and I have a 1920ish house with many, many old windows. There has not been any maintenance in quite a long time. I am learning how to restore our windows. I have many of the tools but have not found that thin pry-bar. I went to the KIT site and did not see it listed. Any help would be appreciated.

[@BrentHull]

Ok, let me find it. Thanks for the note.

[@TerrenceFerguson]

Towards the end of the video you mentioned a resource list--any chance you could post that? Thanks!

[@BrentHull]

We're working on a downloadable resource guide. It should be available in a week or 2. Thanks for watching.

[@TerrenceFerguson]

@@BrentHull Sounds good--looking forward to it.

[@markbielski8379]

What kind of wood would you use in the Midwest , Thank you

[@BrentHull]

Eastern White pine or Long leaf yellow pine if you are looking for historic woods. I think Sapele would perform very well in your area.

[@pcatful]

How about checking the pulleys? Clean, a little oil.

[@BrentHull]

Thanks for the reminder.

[@MP-zi6nz]

Shame you don't do residential. I tried to hire your company for my 104 year old cherry wood windows and was turned away. There are no more craftsmen left in the Metroplex. I will just have to do them myself.

[@BrentHull]

Sorry, look up Window Preservation Alliance. They may help.

[@tegan.hanson9829]

I’ve had some old windows reglazed several months ago and they’ve started to mildew. How would you prevent mildew on the glaze? I didn’t watch their work, but what might have gone wrong? Not letting the glaze cure long enough? Wrong paint or primer? Im going to be restoring a lot of windows soon for a greenhouse and don’t want this to happen again. Thanks!

[@BrentHull]

You should add some mildew retardant in your putty glazing. I think Crawford makes one. Also, try to let the putty dry for at least a week or more before painting. We sometimes let it dry for weeks. Thanks for watching.

[@bradybrown9759]

With historic windows, what material do you use for the screens?

[@BrentHull]

We like copper screen material. We will use steel but mostly copper. Thanks.

[@tubagod007]

Is there a link to the resource list that was mentioned in the talk?

[@BrentHull]

We're working on it. I'll also add one to the description. Thanks.

[@Trumpetfiend]

I am having trouble finding the T Style weather stripping. Where can I find it for sale? Also, you may have touched on this and I may have missed it, but what weather stripping, if any, would you use for the meeting of the top and bottom sash?

[@BrentHull]

Try Dorbin or Pembko.

[@Trumpetfiend]

@@BrentHull I appreciate it!

[@FrenchFarmhouseDiaries]

I was enjoying your presentation then when you went to silicon you lost me all ways bed glass on multipurpose putty and sprig the glass in I'll be making some traditional English Box sash windows on my channel in coming videos if your interested buddy 😉

[@BrentHull]

I am, thanks for the note.

[@TerrenceFerguson]

I was a little perplexed by the use of silicone here too. I would think that would cause a headache down the line if the glass needed to be replaced. Is the cumbersome nature of a glazing point that significant?