Windows, Doors, and Exterior Insulation: Installing ThermalBuck

Homes that incorporate exterior insulation have special issues installing windows and doors- luckily, there are solutions for this. Check out ThermalBuck at: ThermalBuck.com
See more about this house at: HomeDiagnosis.tv/atlanta-home...

[@townsendliving9750]

Kinda funny risinger is doing the "real house remodel" with a budget I'm assuming is going to spiral out of reach for most of us, and you're doing a performance build that shows more details of what its really like to do a house, sometimes things aren't perfect but we make judgments calls and make them work. Love both channels. PS I think matt has "tenacious" trademarked. You may owe him like 50 cents for using his favorite descriptive word

[@HomePerformance]

Haha thanks- I actually think I heard a manufacturer’s rep and a researcher use it in the same week too- it’s officially a fad

[@frankgall6]

I thought he trademarked “bomber””

[@dorhocyn3]

Love the foam buck stuff. But Whoa, that jack stud deal is something else. I will keep my jack studs....

[@bradley3549]

No joke right? Jack stud vs. lag screw into end grain? I'm sorry, I love me some Headlok/GRK/Spax as much as the next guy but nothing beats lumber between the load and the support.

[@dorhocyn3]

I always think of the old videos where they tell you in the event of an earthquake to stand in a doorway i’m pretty sure because the structure of a standard doorway is pretty darn robust with the jack studs.

[@HomePerformance]

Structural engineering doesn't always make common sense, I can tell you from experience working through this project. 'Good enough' is usually all that's ever needed, re: the jack stud/lag screw variation.

[@batmb1e]

Love the humility on the RO sizing, it happens to us all!!! Great choice on “outies” and the thermal bucks, those are a great product!

[@HomePerformance]

Thanks Ryan

[@Coltrabagar]

A Bar clamp would be handy to pull the thermal buck tight onto the opening.

[@UnbeatableRep]

Hey there!! Really interesting stuff. I had run into an issue similar to yours in regards to securing the door. Was a in a pre-war building and jambs of the windows weren't deep enough to catch any framing behind the exterior stone. Had utilized 4"x10" metal strips that were secured on to the windows and doors prior to setting and then secured to the framing. Hope this helps.

[@HomePerformance]

Interesting solution- I'm sure there are many ways to approach this kind of mixup.

[@gabelumby8206]

Did you do any cost comparisons on this exterior insulation method vs the zip-r system? I'm newish to your build and am happy I found your build again. Last video I watched was of your concrete footers and people were saying you'd have trouble finding subs willing to do it your way. Have you had trouble finding good subs to do the work the way you want them to?

[@HomePerformance]

Thanks Gabe- bottom line is I have no subs yet, until we hit electrical and plumbing. All the work since foundation has been me and my parents. ZIP-R is a foam insulation, which offgasses toxic flame retardants like all foam insulations.

[@greg925911]

Great video! better the Mat R's, on thermal Buck I really really want detailed on the insulation an mostly detailed on the drip edge/bug screen an how one dose it

[@HomePerformance]

Stay tuned Greg

[@scorpio6587]

10:52 If you cut the cripples under the sill at a bit of an angle, you can ensure that the sill and buck tilt outward.

[@HomePerformance]

I actually think you'd have a problem with the angle cut on the buck at that point, since it's one piece. Hard to describe in a comment, but try it and you'll see. The buck is supposedly angled already, though I doubt it's significant.

[@johnpearson5865]

Nice job. 👍

[@HomePerformance]

thank you buddy

[@AGClaymore]

It's a cool product but wouldn't a wood buck extension (say 2.5 inches of ripped 2x4) plus the 2x6 stud behind it (the wall jacks) already have an R value of close to 11? Even a triple pane window is around R8. I suppose there's still a three R gain for a couple square feet of wall per window. I'd want to run the numbers first, I suppose. Definitely an interesting product.

[@paulfontaine288]

Thanks for sharing the information, I have one question;when your door jam is for a 2x6 wall and you buck it out 2 inches, that means when you open the door from the inside , the door is going to bind up on the inside corner, and wont go beyond 90 degree. How do you address that?

[@HomePerformance]

I hear your thought, but we somehow made it work fine- the doors go all the way to the wall on inside now, no hangups.

[@jonathanmilton9753]

Can you tape it also?

[@timothywelch4721]

Instructions lol. Very important our new house roof needed full replacement due to them not reading installation instructions for the roof blanket. A sarking with bulk insulation attached to it. They still refused to follow the instructions on installation the second time now needs replacement all over again.....

[@HomePerformance]

OHMYGOODNESS, people- get your $#!& together! So sorry to hear Timothy. Third times the charm, I think.

[@timothywelch4721]

Getting quotes and a updated engineer report to have fixed post build. Not letting a company that installed then came back 14 times to try and fix then forced builder to replace and build picks the same contractor and crew to redo. Two lessons there I think!

[@joshuasmith1215]

I would think that what the manufacturer of the window says you need for a rough opening would already be taking into consideration adding a half inch on each side for setting the window. They don't do that?

[@HomePerformance]

Yes, they do- but you need more rough opening if you want that gap plus the TB

[@coreygillum12]

What size are the window jambs?

[@HomePerformance]

6” deep

[@ashorts52]

Key take away from this video - Get the window size that your wife enjoys :)

[@HomePerformance]

Yes, that is most critical

[@danielcapson9842]

Don't you want a little slope on the sills so water runs out...

[@HomePerformance]

Yes you do

[@HomePerformance]

Yes you do

[@brincbp]

ThermalBuck has a 1/4" slope from 1-3/4" back from the outer edge.

[@guytech7310]

FWIW: The Prefab Foam Window Buck material isn't an ideal product since you basically screwing or nailing the windows into a foam leaving them extended. Better option in my opinion to make your own out of lumber that is backed with ridge foam. This way when you fasten your windows they fastners are grabbing into wood. The foam between the Wood and the sheating provides a good thermal break. Your windows are never going to match the R-value of your walls, so your not saving that much using the all-foam window buck. it would be best to include foam that is sandwitched between your header lumber, especially when the header spans multiple windows. TIP: also consider priming all of the exposed lumber around the window openings so that if there is a leak or some just leaves the window open during a rainstorm the lumber is protected. Priming the lumber framing around the windows is like adding a secondary moisture barrier. You still need to tape around the windows. I wound trust that the Caulking will completely keep all of the water & moisture out, especially considering thermal expansion & contraction. Better to go overkill than have to redo a window because of water damage.

[@HomePerformance]

We are, in fact, always screwing into lumber- that’s why the 4 1/2” screws. And yes, we taped in this vid. Good ideas all.

[@guytech7310]

@@HomePerformance Way too long to properly secure the windows to the framing.

[@nickk05281982]

What type of screws do you recommend since you are adding load 2inches out. Example leave a screw sticking two inches out and grab it with plyers and push down. The same screw drive in expect for thickness of the window flange material and try again

[@guytech7310]

@@nickk05281982 If your going to use his approach (which I don't recommend) I would recommend you use Structural screws, like GRK Structural wood screws (sold at lowes & probably Homedepot)

[@nickk05281982]

I agree. But even then I can't imagine you can get a load calculation on those screws doing that.

[@anthonycraig274]

I would have thought the nails would have created thermal bridging points.

[@HomePerformance]

In real life, that stuff matters so little I actually never think about it at all. You can’t build a home in the US without metal fasteners of some kind. The PH OCD must stop.

[@anthonycraig274]

@@HomePerformance that’s so true. Many thanks .

[@HomePerformance]

Thanks for watching my friend