Metal Lathe Cut Off Explained PLUS a better tool holder!

Cut Off Blade Holder Video: • Metal Lathe Cut Off To...
Cut Off Blade: amzn.to/3wi403h

[@jonsworkshop]

Nicely demonstrated Winky, well done on the re-visit as well, you can never over stress the importance of rigidity in machining. If it helps one guy out it was worth it. Cheers, Jon

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Jon. I agree. In fact I could have used this info years ago.

[@lesmaybury793]

That was a good demo of resonance. For those of us who have to work in a shoe box using floppy bench lathes it gives a good indication what to look for in improving parting off (UK for cutoff 😁) on small lathes.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This is good to hear. This is why made the new video. There are many areas to look at and consider.

[@leerogers6423]

@@WinkysWorkshop . A very easy to understand lesson and the excelent graphic illustrates it perfectly. It's so often difficult to explain to people new to machining that the apparently rigid lumps of lathe iron in front of rhem are in fact dancing around like chickens . My shoebox has a 113 yr old Royal Navy lathe in it that was compact enough for use in a submarine , great lathe but it's light so you learn quickly about keeping things compact and rigid. Good video thanks.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@leerogers6423 - Love the dancing chicken! Thanks

[@jeffanderson1653]

Well done. The harmonics are well defined in this video. Parting was something I tried to avoid with my old 13” South Bend. Had I seen this video, I would have understood why I was struggling. With my newer 15” Colchester, parting is easy at any speed, feed.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! Yes I occasionally hear from people running huge industrial machines. They assume I have bad bearing or loose gibs on my compound because they have never experienced smaller less rigid lathes.

[@michaellitzkow8123]

I really like your approach of coming back to hard problems multiple times, each time with the benefit of what you learned previously and then figuring out a little more. I think a lot of human progress works that way. Unfortunately, most instructional materials, and especially videos, skip over that process. Thank you for modeling that behavior.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I appreciate that! If nothing else I didn't feel like I explained my past video very well. I took a bit more time and effort to make the drawings but I think they help a lot. CAD sure it useful and amazing.

[@aceroadholder2185]

A good reason to use a collet if possible. A 5-C will get you up to 1 1/8 diameter stock (28.5mm)and you can part off work within an inch (25.4mm) of the spindle nose. If you do a lot of cut-off work having a tool mounted to the cross slide on the back side of the work is handy. About as rigid as you can get and with the tool upside down the chips are thrown down and not up at you. In the home shop doing part off is the one place where a drip oiler for cutting oil is useful. It is hard to brush oil in fast enough and the oil does help with high speed steel blade cutters as there is a lot of heat build up in a deep parting cut. Cheers from NC/USA

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... collets are on my list of wants. The 5C is probably the best option for cut off but I'll likely go with ER40. They are still way better than the chuck but you can also use the spindle bore. I've thought about the drip oiler too... its a good idea. With the smaller chuck parting off at full speed works great but from a mess standpoint I tend to go slower. It slings oil everywhere. Both the Logan and South bend are not set up very well for mounting the tool from behind and reverse is out of the question.

[@aceroadholder2185]

@@WinkysWorkshop If you are going to use ER collets be aware that if you buy mainland Chinese tooling you are taking a shot in the dark. Chinese ER collets are often so bad as to be unusable.There's a reason a Chinese collet set sells for price of one U.S. made collet. This is one place I wouldn't cut corners on quality.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@aceroadholder2185 Yeah, I've heard the same. I've also heard that most of this is a result of burrs left on the collet and cleaning them up helps. I'll probably look for a better collet.

[@leonadeau2849]

That was a very good demo. One of the best I have seen on KZbin.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you sir. This is my third attempt. Describing what is happening without the drawings wasn't so good. I finally took the time to do the drawings.

[@Siskiyous6]

I built the tool holder from your previous video, it has worked out great.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Super! Thanks for letting me know.

[@TangentJim]

Hey Winky - Great explanation with visuals. The best I've ever seen. Allow me to throw you a curve ball. If your Chuck has sprung jaws, the cut off piece will bounce like crazy. To use your term " Vibration Resonance " Try putting something soft on each jaw to take up the gap . Like copper etc. etc. etc. -- Jim

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes this is for sure a problem! And the softer jaw would probably help

[@Pappaoh]

Really enjoy your work on this. Parting has been a problematic endeavor for me at times, but the biggest frustration has been not knowing why things weren't going well. Keep up the great work.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad it helped! This has been an ongoing adventure for me as well so I understand what you are saying. So far this setup has served me well. I've been using this same cutoff blade on two lathes for over 2 years now.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

When you get away from the original accessories designed for your lathe you often get some new problems. I guess that holds true for any shop machine. Thanks for the video Winky.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The original design for cut off didn't work very well either. However, there is a design by armstrong that probably works great. It flexes. Kind of the same effect and cutting off in reverse of from the back side. I've been meaning to try making one. Have you ever seen one of these?

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

@@WinkysWorkshop no i have not seen one of those. I have an armstrong cutoff tool that came with the lathe and it never has any problems.

[@bobuk5722]

Hi Winky. When adjusting my dovetails I remove the feed screw. I get a better 'feel' for the setting as a result. Not my idea - the late George Thomas published it decades ago. Very interesting and informative analysis you have put together. My 'import' lathe has a much larger diameter spindle than most, a very solid Dickson style tool post, my 'cnc style' insert toolholder has minimal overhang and I have no trouble in cutting off. BobUK.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It would be nice to have a more rigid machine, thanks for watching!

[@douglasthompson2740]

This is a great topic especially because I have not been able to satisfy the challenge adequately in several years of off and on attempts. Number one question is since the surface feet per minute feed rate is changing so rapidly and drastically going from the outer diameter to the center which do you shoot for a half way average? My problem is not so much chatter but a drastic increase in tool pressure needed as the diameter diminishes. Works pretty good with a center bore of any size but doing a solid especially that tool pressure goes up drastically toward the center until the tool pretty much stops cutting and immediately thereafter the work climbs the blade and things start breaking. I have used every kind of cut off tool I have found in the catalogs to no better effect. Inserts, HSS blades of different configuration etc. etc. Lots of oil, hand feeding at varying rates. Cutting edge dead center. None works reliably. I would say about seventy per cent of the time it cuts fine. Just when I think I have it resolved BANG!! I have ruined a couple of insert blade type holders as well as a couple insert grooving holders this way. Not to mention a few inserts themselves. My lathe is a Grizzly G4003G (12x36) so it is not huge but not tiny either. Gets to where I just go to the bandsaw. Sometimes I just start the groove to guide the saw blade and finish it on the bandsaw. This issue is one of the most frustrating when working with the lathe.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I feel your pain. I've been there! If I am cutting off using my shallow chuck I use the OD SFP calculation (about 460 RPM for 1-inch). On the chuck with more overhang the lathe spindle is not rigid enough to handle the overhang of the chuck so I slow it down to 180 rpm. If you have not tried this tool you need to amzn.to/3wi403h . This tool has a T profile and a concave top. No friction and the chip don;t get stuck in the cut. I used to use a GTN3 insert with a tool holder that was supported by a plate on my ways. It would break at the end of the cut like you are experiencing if the insert got slightly dull. I use a fairly slow feed rate and never have problems with the blade going under the work at the end of the cut. It sounds like something it flexing. Apply some of my tricks in the video. I you are using a quick change holder put shims between the holder and the compound and set your compound straight with the cross slide.

[@christophercullen1236]

Thanks Winky that has covered a lot of my problems , will look at my lathe and setup and make ajustments . Old apprentice from Down Under

[@WinkysWorkshop]

One more thing... I have a video on replacing the cross slide and compound gib screws and using a lock tite "type" substance on the screws, It makes getting the slide just right and also helps with cut off. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q5PInHZ4mtB3oa8

[@christophercullen1236]

@@WinkysWorkshop will check it out thanks

[@VenturaSewerInspections]

Great video Mark. Sharing something that works great for me instead of a brush or spray bottle is a 2oz squeeze bottle with a stainless steel tip. You can put a drop in at a time and still keeps hands away from the chuck. They cost maybe 2-3 on amazon. Thanks for the videos.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I had a squeeze bottle at one time... it did work well. Why the stainless tip?

[@VenturaSewerInspections]

@@WinkysWorkshop You'll know in about a week. Just sent you a 3 pack. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mark.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@VenturaSewerInspections Thanks a bunch! Did you bye a bandsaw plate from me?

[@VenturaSewerInspections]

@@WinkysWorkshop no so let's cross fingers and see if I got the address right haha.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@VenturaSewerInspections - ha., no kidding

[@bigbattenberg]

Good points, all of them. The chuck stick-out length is definitely an overlooked factor which unfortunately cannot be changed on most machines. I have a German made Gema lathe which is a great machine but it has an ASA B5.9 long taper spindle nose (size L0). Not only does this give a long distance to the spindle bearing but chips gets caught between the chuck back plate and the chuck, which effectively necessitates removing the chuck from the backing plate every time for cleaning. It shows on a number of flanges which are damaged from chips embedded in the taper surface. I am thinking about adding an O-ring or some other type of barrier to keep the chips out. I hope to improve cut-off results with a to-be-made solid rear inverted tool post.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I think some of the lathe manufacturers realized the chuck stick overhang was a problem. My Logan chuck was very shallow and close to the spindle. After market chucks are terrible on these old smaller lathes. I agree... cut off from the back helps a lot. I also made a spring cutoff tool that helps a lot.

[@richardtullius6419]

That was very informative. I do have two different chucks, now looking forward to seeing differences.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You will likely see a difference. Thanks for watching.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the link to this video Mark. It has renewed my desire to come up with a better tool holder and mounting for my Colchester. I will also try out one of those T type blades as well. I enjoyed the chat on the ARW live stream this morning (yes I had to get up at 5:30am). Regards, Mark

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It was good to meet you as well! This video didn't cover how I made the holder. It was more why I made the holder. This video starts where I'm making the holder. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fnikgnugr8ymb8U

[@tattoos1988]

Great video mate this will clear up a lot for people who have trouble with parting I made a solid cut off tool holder that attaches to my QTCP that sits on the compound slide so it’s supported withe compound slide inline with the cross slide works well no chatter thanks for sharing this video stay safe all the best god bless

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I have thought about doing that also. In fact I have been thinking about making a new style QC Tool post. Thanks for adding your common!!

[@tattoos1988]

@@WinkysWorkshop that would be a great video nothing like your own QCTP might inspire me to make my own the factory ones are never good enough always that little bit of play thanks for sharing your talents stay safe all the best

[@kevinschlipalius5359]

Hi Kevin back again I will tell you a job we do we screw cut 3 tip in assab 750 v medium carbon using a 4 way tool post and assab 17 tool steel with oil pumped on, in 18 minutes this is plug cut method [ straight in cross. slide ]we tried a quick change type tool holder we got some chatter we are about 8 inches out of the chuck 4 jaw type this machine has a taped nose and cam lock [no thread] this is very solid ,wen parting off we use pow feed thanks for listing Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering Vic Aus.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yep... the 4 way post is WAY better than a quick change post. Thanks!

[@terrycannon570]

Thanks Mark . Great job on the visuals. The pictures reveal a lot.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks!

[@dmadere1]

Good basic stuff Winky👌🏻👍🏻

[@WinkysWorkshop]

thanks you sir

[@123232ism]

Never knew about the shallow chucks or the chuck/arbor flexing. When I used a Hardinge toolroom lathe at work, there was never a cutoff problem. My home shop Chinese lathe, well...lets just say it will work, but it needs a lot of TLC. Thanks for the video sir.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah... I'm sure the Harding ws rock solid. Thanks for watching!

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Great info winky, thanks.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Any time!

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

great video Mark, A very thorough presentation.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad it was helpful! I felt like my last video was not so good so I made the illustrations.

[@metalshopwithtroy5755]

@@WinkysWorkshop they worked a treat good idea for sure

[@tribsat100]

Very useful.thankyou. I cant wait for the next video showing how you put the detail on those counterfeit coins 👍. Regards Stuart from England UK.👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha... I missed that joke?

[@tribsat100]

@@WinkysWorkshop they look like blank coins! All they need is both sides stamping to finish the job. But seriously ... the tech stuff is very informative and helps enormously when we sometimes cant see the wood for the trees

[@kevinschlipalius5359]

Hi there Winky Kevin back from Aus I just looked at 3 of your videos the tool holder you made is holding the parting tool over the compound good support ,the quick change does not we don't have any quick change type all ours are 4 way type , the parting off tool is clamped as a normal tool with 3 set screws. as seen you are still some chatter is the chuck jaws parrell if not you are not holding the work piece enough get a piece ground stock put in chuck lithely tighten up and see if you are still getting movement , if so your chuck is not holding it enough so you will steel get chatter . to day I parted off 8 pieces of 316 s /s with a hss tool a bit tough no trouble yesterday ,I made a tipped tool for the job but I tried the hss to see if I could help you coolant is very important and all our machines have cutting oil pumped on I think your own tool is good worked well I used a hercus lath [made in Aus] to do my job keep worken on it and you will get there .Kevin Schlipalius Deakin Engineering Vic Aus

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The larger chuck is new and the jaws are in great shape. A screw on chuck and smaller spindle is the primary problem. But is works.

[@kevinschlipalius5359]

Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I worked in the famley engineering business for 54 years it has bean going over 70 years ,some of the cheaper lathes have bushes in head stock better have ball races , more expensive have taper roller bearings [never here'd of over heating ] a good gear box oil helps keep it cooler, we have lath about 50 years old it still has zero on the nose of the spindle all our machines are very good quality some are tool room all our Chuck are Prat Bernard you need to look at bearings both ends look at cross and top slide and adjust them if needed size of chuck shodden matter tool on centre high ,if bearings are worn the job will ride up on the tool you will get chatter we use crank parting off tools power feed all the best to all Kevin schlipalius Deakin Engineering Vic Aus

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes sir, bearings are better and even better yet, tapered roller. My lathe has angular contact double row precision bearings and they are in excellent shape. The cross slide and compound are also in good shape and adjusted very well. The lathe is old and not very industrial. It has some limitations that must be considered such as centering the load as much as possible over the carriage. This is a good practice regardless of what lathe you have but critical and the case of these smaller lathes. The other weaknesses are spindle diameter, the bearings and the thread mount. Ball bearings will move under load. Not a lot but they do move. In fact, sleeve bearing (bushings) are actually more solid than ball. Most sleeves are set at .001" clearance and with a running oil film they don't move much. The surface area on a sleeve bearing is huge compared to any bearing. The biggest problem with sleeve bearings is at higher speeds, they will over heat and burn up. The diameter of the spindle on my lathe is 1.5" which is fairly small plus it has a bore slightly over .75" and plus a moris taper on the end. This makes overhang on a chuck very critical. The wall thickness at one end of the bearing is only .25". This is a weak spindle and needs to be considered. As spindle diameters go up the strength goes up exponentially. Even .25" larger would likely be 20% more rigid. Then the thread mount. Threads on a small diameter spindle are a very BAD idea especially when you use a case iron backing plate. I've swapped all my cast plates for steel. There is still movement but it takes over twice the load before it moves. Sadly, chuck overhang on these old lathes is a very real problem. The the chuck you mentioned (Pratt and Whitney) are excellent chucks but they cost well over the cost of my lathe. Something interesting Pratt & Whitney is the only company that makes a low profile chuck that works well with these lathes. You need to watch this video. It starts in the middle but feel free to watch the whole video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/r6S8pqaOo812h7s

[@34tab]

thank you cuttoff sucks sometimes -- had one today - slower was ok but will look at direct support

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This direct mount is a huge plus but smaller lathes with a big aftermarket chuck are a problem. I sold my Logan lathe. It had the original chuck that was very shallow so cut off was happening very close to the spindle bearing. On my south bend, which is actually more solid, I still have some problems with the direct mount due to a chuck with a lot of overhang. Slowing it down some helps.... it's all about being solid but also about avoiding a resonance (speed)

[@WinkysWorkshop]

A good collet setup makes a huge difference as well... I need one

[@t.d.mich.7064]

Hey! I wonder if your issue with chatter isn't simply more leverage applied to the spindle bearings. Any clearance in the bearing fit is amplified by increasing the leverage on the workpiece because of the longer distance from the bearings. I'm quite sure your lathe has bronze spindle bearings. I know resonance is a factor, but that is reduced by higher quality bearings. Keep up the informative and well made videos.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You are right, it could be bearing although my spindle bearing are roller bearing. With that being said, in my opinion the bronze bearings are a little more solid that the roller bearing. Yes they have clearance but only .001" and as soon as this clearance is gone I suspect it would be solid. My South Bend has sleeve bearing and it's a bit more solid but it also have a slightly larger spindle so it's hard to say. My logan cuts smoother but I can remove more metal each pass on the South B. There is another aspect I did not mention because it seem to trigger disagreement and that is the thread mount. If you put a 3 foot bar in the chuck and push down you will see the back register on the chuck pulling away from the spindle register. I've had at least 10 people say this is impossible even after showing them video. It kind of blows my mind, disagreeing is fine but when you show them a video and they still say its impossible well, that's just stubborn.

[@t.d.mich.7064]

@@WinkysWorkshop I thank you for your reply and respect your input. If you compare your spindle caps to main bearing caps on an automotive crankshaft, you would find that 2 bolt mains caps are not nearly as capable of controlling rotational forces as 4 bolt main caps. This could be one of the factors in your 3 ft. bar scenario. Keep up the good work!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@t.d.mich.7064 Interesting.... I also know that bearings flex. I used to work in on web printing presses and I've seen paper wrap cylinders that stop the press powered by a 30HP motor. Once the paper is removed the bearings and everything are fine but the gap between the cylinders was most 1/8 inch with the paper in there. Fortunately this only happened maybe 3 times in 40 years but the bearing were always fine.

[@jdmccorful]

A question comes to mind. Could you use slugs of correct size between tool holder and carriage(?) to eliminate the overhang and prevent to a degree this chatter? I don't have much lath time, just asking. Love the demonstrations.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The answer is YES. It should be the same. And to be honest, aside from turning the compound in line with the cross slide you should be able to modify a quick change holder to do the same. Maybe jack screws on the bottom.

[@kgee2111]

Nice explanation. Thank you.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You are welcome!

[@Thysddcf235]

My friend Rick V can use this video. Great work!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool, thanks!

[@pgs8597]

G’day Winky. Great video and re-enforcers my ideas of what’s wrong with my mini lathe. One thing though, does the stick out of the cutting tool make a difference? Cheers Peter

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes it does... It needs to be as short as possible. Good luck, most have a hard time on small lathes. Hopefully you and apply some of the aspects in the video and make it work for you.

[@nashguy207]

Thanks for sharing. You do some good educational videos!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you like them! Thanks

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

great share Mark , ENJOYED !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool! Glad you enjoyed it

[@joell439]

excellent explanation and associated graphics 👍👍😎👍👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thank you! 👍

[@βασιληςκαρβουνης-υ1ο]

Καλημέρα και καλό μήνα πολύ ωραίο βίντεο

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Σας ευχαριστώ, κύριε

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Project idea. Make a chunk key holder.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Not a bad idea... although I do have one.

[@rubenclark8017]

That was great. Thank you.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're very welcome!

[@daveknowshow]

enjoyed the video.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@dragman377]

Goot tip, thanks for posting.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Your welcome, thanks!

[@glennfelpel9785]

That sure was an informative video. Very well done. On another issue. In an earlier video you made on making the tail stock spindle barrel you stated that you had a video on how you made the shear tool that you used to turn the barrel. I went through all of your videos and I couldn't see where that one might be. By any chance do you remember which video that was in. I have a need for a good shear tool as well an I would appreciate seeing that video. And thank you for this one!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You know I can't find it either! Strange. I made is from a specific carbide insert but if was kind of finicey to use. I'll probably grind one for the video.

[@glennfelpel9785]

@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you, much appreciated!

[@MedusalObligation]

Enough resonance to vibrate the slugs around on the crossslide.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes there was!

[@paulpipitone8357]

Love new videos

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@bambukouk]

How do you adjust tool height in your toolholder design? Watched both vids and couldn't see the answer?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The tool holder is made on center so there is no need to adjust the height. The only disadvantage it that the tool holder is lathe specific.

[@bambukouk]

@@WinkysWorkshop Thank you - understand since most of us have just one lathe, toolholder being lathe specific is not really a disadvantage, but... I would be concerned about making it accurately and lack of adjustability? Perhaps making blade slot at slight angle would give some fine tuning by pushing the blade forward or back, without compromising rigidity? Will have to re-watch your other vid again to see how do you ensure that tool blade ends up on lathe centre.

[@everettneil6860]

Would a four jaw chuck reduce vibration

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I really don't think so. 4 Jaws hold better but I don't think the 3 jaw and letting the stock move.

[@millomweb]

Have a look at your drive belt that's on the motor pulley with a view to replacing it. It sounds and looks like it's nearly shot - the motor has a bounce to it that it shouldn't have .

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Its a cast iron pulley and a new notched belt V-belt (maybe 2-yrs). It's a floating motor mount, some movement is normal. You'd freak out if you saw the solid belt. I really don't think you were hearing the belt.

[@millomweb]

@@WinkysWorkshop The motor just lifted a little every revolution of the belt (it seemed) with a change of sound - usually motors tensioning belts like that just wobble in a sort of random way - well either watch the bit of vid again with the motor in view, see what you think or run it and watch in real life - I don't think I was imagining the regular 'lump' !

[@luderickwong]

Is that implies that people make the old chuck knows better on these issues? the new chuck looks shiney and beefy, but it shake. what if.....we find a way to mount the new chuck without the base plate? the old chuck did that decades ago. by the way, do collet chucks do better? it is the smallest and lightest bit it don't hold large dia. pr shall we back to the square one, try a faceplate and clamp nuts?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The new chucks are very strong but due to the overhang the spindle flexes and the thread mount itself moves. You pretty much double the leverage with the new chucks. Yes the collets are probably much better. I don't have any to confirm this but the ones intended for the lathe that fit inside the spindle are probably the best. The ER will hang off the end although less than most chucks. Spindle mount thread diameter makes a huge difference as well. Just going from 1.5" to 2" is drastic.

[@luderickwong]

@UCF58tVSS9Q597phTbV8O_wQ have you check those chucks use on glassware? it is pretty slim, basically that's a baseplate with retractable jaws, light and nothing hangout. may be? just may be we can borrow that design? or....revisit faceplate and lathe dog?

[@trabusas.3782]

Thanks for the video, I never knew this, that the overhang from the Chuck did this. I always got scared that I did something wrong on my Lathe and stopped cutting, and convinced myself I did something wrong, and cut ir off with a angle grinder. I also got a question for you; Why are you undercutting, I mean under the Center is this the Normal procedure!!! Kind Regards from the Netherlands Akko

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Honestly I was trying for center and didn't quite make it. However, it is closer than it looks.

[@Baron3D]

Interesting. Could an extra roller give support? Like a steady rest.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I suspect a steady rest would work well but if you added a roller it would have to be very solid.

[@Baron3D]

@@WinkysWorkshop Yes, solid and heavy like the holder.

[@taiwanluthiers]

Moving the tool post would only work if your lathe has a T slot compound. Not everyone has that.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

A tee slot cross slide would be great to have

[@millomweb]

10:00 Different chuck, less overhang. It would be reall interesting to use the shorter chuck but keep the overhang (so stick the work out more) the same and see how that compares !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm sure it would be the same or worse... depending on how you made the extension. Also, I didn't mention it here but the screw mount is also a weakness. with the extension you would have 2 screw mounts.

[@millomweb]

@@WinkysWorkshop No !!! I was meaning just poke the bar your turning further out in the narrower chuck - easy enough to do - you're thinking too complicated :) I've a gut feeling that the newer chuck has some hidden problem with it compared with the old chuck. Maybe the scroll in it is not as snug fitting as the scroll in the old one.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@millomweb Got ya... however, it's actually the opposite. You can put a long bar in the small chuck that is all the way through the spindle bore, tighten the chuck and wiggle the bar and the other end moves. The new chuck doesn't do that. In fact that's why I started using the new chuck, the old one is worn out.

[@millomweb]

@@WinkysWorkshop That's really intriguing ! Got to question the 2 chucks' material type - is the new one softer ? I'm totally baffled by your long bar test results. They don't agree with the chatter results at all !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@millomweb - I also have a 6 inch shars chuck that is much worse than the new 5 inch. it has an additional inch of more overhang. I'm sure both chucks are hardened although they might be different hardness. Also, I replaced the cast backing plate on the shars with steel. It helped some but didn't fix the chatter. The 5 inch is also steel. I'll never go back to cast back plates on a screw on chuck. Threads are the weak link and cast makes the problem worse.

[@markellis6886]

every lathe also has its own personality.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

So true.... I've had to slap her tail stock a time or two. Ha

[@MW-gm1qv]

What software are you using for your graphics?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Sketchup

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Great video! What is your background?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm a basement mechanic! Ha. Actually, my career was printing. I ran a web offset press for 30 years but the last 14 years before I retired I worked as a troubleshooter. This job quickly morphed into a modifying machines in problem areas. I have no higher education or training but learned a lot about engineering and machinist work in that 14 years. I tell people I was a Cheap Engineer. (pressman pay). In some ways I think my hands on training was far superior to going to school but it was very specific. I was very effective because I had years of press experience and understood a lot of the problems very well.

[@MyLilMule]

Were you power feeding or using the cross slide hand wheel?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Always power feed. Usually in the .007" to.010" per revolution range. On the larger chuck I had to play with it but slower speed (180 RPM) and feed (.060") was a little better but, on the smaller chuck I was running 470 RPM with a feed of .010" without issue.

[@dannywilsher4165]

Didn't you do a video on a stand under your cutoff tool? Seems like I remember seeing it.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes. I removed it. It worked well but when the insert got slightly dull (maybe 4 cuts) it would wipe out a tool holder. The blade works so much better that I didn't want to lead people to experience the same.

[@dannywilsher4165]

@@WinkysWorkshop Ok, I understand. Thanks for the reply and the video, Sir!!!!

[@Morkmtw]

@@dannywilsher4165 - Of course you are welcome

[@gangleweed]

You just can't beat a rear mounted upside down parting tool for any parting off.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You are probably right. Many lathes, including mine are not set up very well to do this.

[@gangleweed]

@@WinkysWorkshop Well mine is a 1930 era Colchester Bantam and it has a short length crosslide but I'm planning on making a longer one as is modern lathe practice to allow a rear tool post to be fitted.........no matter how vintage or collectable a machine is I adhere to the concept that it must fulfill a purpose that is practical and if that means redesigning any part then so be it.........museum pieces that are just good to look at have no place in my workshop, garage etc.......I don't think anyone would think twice about exchanging the old 4 way tool post for a modern QCTP one.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@gangleweed - I totally agree although if I can make it work well without altering the machine I will. The method I use for cutoff works perfect with the small chuck and if I slow the speed and feed down it works well with the new chuck. Logan made a cross slide with T slots that works but it eliminates the compound. Yeah, the 4 way tool post is a pain to use but the quick change is nowhere near as solid but the convenience makes the compromise acceptable.

[@gangleweed]

@@WinkysWorkshop Compromise is the name of the game in all cases and as far as you want to go...........you tend to get attached to a lathe and for many it's a lifetime acquisition even with the shortcomings.......buying a new modern lathe is either break the bank or do a complete rework on a cheapie to make it perform reliably.........you can get a lot of lathe for 2 grand and spread over many years represents good value if chosen wisely.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Like #221 Thanks for the video!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks! What is 221?

[@johnchung6900]

OP - this is not a April fool joke right? This technical detail is valid?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha... I hope its valid!

[@stevennighswongersln]

We call it harmonics

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Who's we... I call it harmonics too.

[@stevenV57]

You have to say "Yahtzee" for it to work correctly.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Ha.. If I had only known. Thanks

[@markellis6886]

@@WinkysWorkshop I have been a machinist -tool maker for 40 plus years. your channel is one of the most informative - easily explained no bull channel out there. you have many great ideas and explain them so they are easily understood. glad I found your channel -monopoly $$$$$

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@markellis6886 - I'm going to print and frame this comment! Ha, thanks a bunch!