Stupid Four-Jaw Chuck Tricks

[@AndysMachines]

Great video! I love the dead centre tip. But there's a neat trick you left out... kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaLPlHaaiMaeaKM

[@Blondihacks]

Whoa, that’s awesome!! Now that’s how you do a response video. 😀 Thanks for sharing! That’s a great tip and I love how you called out the limitations responsibly. Thanks for sharing!

[@AndysMachines]

@@Blondihacks Well thank you for the kind words! 😊

[@AndysMachines]

@@andypughtube That's true. The work is only being gripped with this method, not physically constrained by the jaws as it would be normally. Yes, you want to take extra care with unbalanced workpieces.

[@ctrchg]

Thanks!

[@532bluepeter1]

Another tip for the four jaw that I believe I learned from Tom at 'Tom's Techniques' is to clone your four jaw chuck key and use both keys simultaneously on opposite jaws. This really facilitates matters when truing work.

[@drd1924]

I was going to suggest the same thing, I use a short small chuck key for the rear and turn both front and back at the same time for large adjustments and getting close. Then fine tune with the main chuck key one at a time. By this method you can often dial in to +/- 0.0001" TIR within 2 minutes from chucking part up... to dialied in. I used to hate dialing in a 4 jaw, but now...I never even use the 3 jaw lol since it would take more time to swap out the jaws than to just dial in. But this is a great video still, she definitely knows her stuff.

[@button-puncher]

Good point. If I did that I *KNOW* that I'd have to put a chain or something on it because I'd forget that 2nd one. Make the handle a giant blaze orange plastic disc or something like that. UFO? Nah, just my 2nd chuck key.

[@dekutree64]

Great tip. Probably could even 3D print it since you won't be using much pressure when doing the simultaneous motions.

[@John-t1t5v]

THAT is a GREAT idea!

[@BuildSomthingCool]

I liked the centering up the off center bar trick😊

[@randynovick7972]

Dang. I knew about the copper jaws thing, and about reversals, but the dead center trick took the ribbon home. Nifty!

[@ron.owensby]

I agree, great tip!

[@dercebe]

Would it be helpfull to use some sort of tap follower so you do not have to readjust the distance to the life center while finding the center position?

[@randywl8925]

I don't own a lathe, but it would be nice to have one I just don't have the space. I totally agree that dead center trick gets the ribbon. That was impressive enough that was going to be my comment and someone beat me to it. ........by a year. 😁 I also liked using that angle metal in the vise for a second bend. No lathe, but I have a vice. 😁 I just recently joined your channel and even though I don't have the machining tools that you do the procedures you show the imagery in your videos and your precise descriptions of your procedures is as good as it gets. Everything makes perfect sense and the added humor is the kicker. This is great stuff that you're showing. How about a video on improvements to a drill press table to improve accuracy or repeatability.

[@incubatork]

For the copper soft jaws i use a short offcut of copper tube/pipe, set the jaw point with a round bar held firmly in the chuck. Once tight squash the sides with grips, you then have to mark and cut the tabs similarly to the way you did but leave the rest closed as it helps stop the softjaws opening up once they have been used a few times. They end up the same as yours but closed at the back part.

[@learningwithlyricsandsongs]

Yep, and while she's make the first one you'll be finishing the fourth.

[@TheSuperCyborg]

Always get a warm feeling when in your intros you go from badass boss, to speaking with the sweetest children storyteller voice and demeanor. And it doesn't disappoint when your videos always range in between (more like the latter!). Excellent work, Quinn! Forever a fan!

[@TheFishingHobby]

Very useful tip on using the dead center for checking runout. Thanks, you earned my subscription 👍

[@Blondihacks]

Thanks for the sub!

[@CleaveMountaineering]

That double dead center trick is great! I would have only thought to use the dead center in the tailstock.

[@toddfisher2335]

I like the dial indicator mount on the quick change. How about making a video on that?!

[@JanBinnendijk]

i saw that too... 3 D printed.. :).. I have a very tiny quick Change tool post on my very tiny EMCO Unimat 3 Lathe.. it's a Tripan Toolpost.. I might make a Toolholder that fits a Dial Test indicator.. that would be really cool!

[@clintchapman4319]

That's a pretty cool trick using the dead center to set up off center work.. Nice one!

[@AMillionInAOne]

Another great video Quinn. I'd love to see "stupid tail stock tricks" at some point in the future especially on your particular lathe. For selfish reasons since my lathe is similar.

[@Blondihacks]

Good idea! I’ll see what I can do.

[@jimbos3421]

Excellent tip with the dead center! I’ve always used a 100 year old 10 to 1 “wiggly” & my calibrated eyeball, your method is better.

[@bostedtap8399]

Excellent tips, for very small chucks, copper tube offcuts can be used. Thanks for sharing.

[@chieft3357]

Thanks much for the info. I've wanted to do copper soft jaws for my lathe and now is a good time to do it. :-)

[@EverettsWorkshop]

I used that trick with the dead center to make a couple carburetor adapter flanges so the hole would be bored on target (one was offset from center). Definitely making some copper jaw covers for my 4-jaw, but will probably use leftover copper tube (cheaper!) Thanks for sharing!

[@leerogers6423]

Good stuff. None of us has a shed full of machines and the toys that go with them ,we all have to get the job done with what we have at hand. Anything that makes more use of your lathe is worth knowing.

[@chriscirino8412]

Quinn Thank you and Merry Christmas. I enjoy your videos. Very informative.

[@kevinfox8030]

Thank you. Love the centre punch trick

[@tomherd4179]

Like your tips. I made a 2nd chuck key for my 4 jaw and found it is somewhat easier to dial in parts using the 2 keys 180 degrees apart. Again thanks.

[@CreaseysWorkshop]

Thanks for being part of #tipsblitz19. Awesome video!

[@TrevorDennis100]

The last tip was something I'd not come across in 40 years as a toolmaker, and was pretty nifty to boot. An added bonus to this is that the #tipsblitz19 link brings up some engineering channels I was not aware of so doubly useful. I didn't see a tip from This Old Tony though.

[@EmmaRitson]

there was one!! hope you saw it.

[@drapakdave]

I love the double centre trick. Thank you!

[@billbrennan8405]

Quinn another Great video, gets my old mind thinking. Thanks

[@brandontscheschlog]

Very cool. An easy way to make the copper or brass jaws is to put the material on the jaw and then close the other jaws up tight. Use your favorite tool/hammer to shape it around the jaw.

[@WildmanTech]

If only I could get the four-jaw chuck I bought to mount to my lathe. I need a new lathe. Great tips!

[@etprecisionmachine2379]

A tip from a 45 year experience machinist: use a wiggler instead of a dead center. Wigglers are spring loaded so the tailstock won't need backing off. Put the indicator tip as close as possible to the work. The farther away the less deflection of the indicator. If you wanna really hold tenths then having the indicator tip 1/2 inch away from the work will not give accurate results. Furthermore, since one end of the wiggler is held in the chuck it won't fall on the cross slide. All of my 3 jaw chucks are adjustable. If bought that way they are more money than hobbiest folks want to pay. I have modified several of my chucks to make them adjustable. Small chucks can be challenging but I have done 4 inch chucks that work very well. Please let me know if you would like to see how I have done this. I can take some pics. And who doesn't like pictures of metalwork? Eric

[@kylemichael2175]

Nicely put together video Quinn. I learn something every time I watch your videos. I tried making some soft jaws out of 14ga brass sheet and it didn’t work out so well. Now I see where I went wrong. Thank you. Keep up the great work. I always enjoy your videos!

[@prodoverjeff2876]

I once ran a job on a Brown&Sharpe screw machine, about .025 off centre in an off center Hardinge collet. Turned, formed, drilled and tapped. I was new in machinig in an old company, so I thought nothing of it. It took a lot of years before it hit me how many guys would have told me, "Can't be done!"

[@sstorholm]

Very nice video, even though a lot of these were "obvious" once I saw them, it would have taken me quite some time to figure them out myself standing with the work piece in hand by the lathe. This also very neatly demonstrates why the lathe is the king of machine tools, it's the only machine that can in theory replicate itself.

[@rynohorn3819]

I pulled some copper sheet out of my fire pit after burning and old cheapo stereo reciever. That was butter soft and pliable. Musta got plenty hot and cooled slow. Can I stiffen them up with a heat n quench in water once they're formed to jaws?

[@Blondihacks]

I would leave it soft, honestly. It’ll harden up with use. Copper work hardens very quickly. Hammering it would speed the process if it’s too soft to use

[@rynohorn3819]

@@Blondihacks okey dokey

[@jlucasound]

Congratulations on project Egress! That accomplishment is forever.

[@Blondihacks]

Thank you! It was an honour

[@claudiomenesesc]

I must be REALLY stupid since I found these tricks brilliant. Thanks !

[@mtwagner]

Do you have a 5C Collet chuck for the PM Lathe? Will that be a possible future thing? I'd love to see a videos covering chuck changes (doing something on the Faceplate, also you don't see done very often here on KZbin), and gear changes for threading.

[@Blondihacks]

I really really want a collet chuck, for sure. I’ve been working out designs to adapt one for this machine. It’ll happen at some point. Great idea about the faceplate, as well. I’ll add that to the schedule.

[@mtwagner]

Blondihacks I saw this one in my internet wanderings, seems like make a compatible backplate for the PM would be an interesting episode. www.accusizetools.com/0269-0010-5c-5-collet-chuck-plain-back/

[@10223220]

I have used the dead center trick many times and it works great thanks for sharing 👍

[@danashay]

Bravo! Very nicely done! Thank you!

[@mikenixon4637]

Very nice work! Definitely an asset to the online tutorial community!

[@Critical_Path]

Fantastic Video!! Really awesome "stupid" tips here. Very informative, to the point but hilarious at the same time. Thanks for sharing. Subscribed

[@Somun-a]

Really great tips. Thanks for taking the time. I have seen copper jaw covers so many times but this is the first time someone is telling how to make 'em. For the dead center trick, how about using a tap follower to keep the center from falling during the initial eye-ball stage? Edit: Of course someone already came up with that idea : )

[@firebird8600]

Totally useful! I definitely need to get a lathe... and soon

[@leslieaustin151]

Stephen You do, you REALLY do. Les in UK

[@gordongamache836]

They are all good but the last one is fantastic, I will use this a lot thanks for all your hard work

[@steveshindeldecker42]

My dad showed me the dead center trick years ago and it has been a while since I have seen it done by someone else, makes me happy to know someone else does that, works great for making transfer case adapters.

[@cho4d]

I just bought a lathe, old school Harrison. £250 delivered with a 3 and 4 jaw chuck and "loads of tooling". Wohoo! Can't wait to make something using these tricks :)

[@OldtimeIronman]

I wish I could remember all the tricks and tips I've forgotten in the last 35 years... Way to go!

[@roylucas1027]

Great tips. Over the years I've become so machine centric that I've forgotten how versatile the lathe is. Setup is everything and frankly I've become a bit lazy. Well, today was an epithenie! Time to stop and think the work through before committing the tool. Thank you.

[@Blondihacks]

A great reminder for me on that same subject was the Project Egress part that I made. I didn’t show a lot of it in the video, but that project was actually about 80% time spent on fixtures and setups. Every operation needed some new work holding trick. Some jobs are like that!

[@sega702]

I really like that center punch, where can I get one like it. Great Videos..love them all so far.

[@Blondihacks]

There’s a link for it in the video description, I believe!

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Great tricks, and Canadian love too! The full meal deal. Thanks for sharing Quinn. Cheers

[@toroidwinder2089]

I love the 3D printed holder for the indicator...

[@speedbuggy16v]

great tips, I had never thought of using a dead center in that manner.

[@AdventureswithaVerySmallLathe]

Nice! Your soft jaws are _so_ much nicer and more professional than the ones I just made for the tip blitz.

[@pauldevey8628]

Love your channel. I also like your blog content. I like that you sometimes give some theory as to support your methods. Thank You and Thank You again.

[@EmmaRitson]

oh thats really nice and clear, as always. the soft jaws are nice. thanks for being a Gem.

[@IgorJeri]

Love your videos, setting up a shop and finding your layout and ideas very useful

[@overunderabove]

That dead centre trick is excellent - thank you

[@rennkafer13]

More great tips! Thanks Quinn!

[@tbirdtezdean2486]

great tuition, love all your work and videos .

[@caonabocruzG]

I never learned these at school, only when I was working with a toolmaker I learned these. Good work!

[@lutsifer5847]

Hi, how do you align a square for a centric runout in the four-jaw chuck? The dial gauge can only be used to scan the edges and not the surfaces. Greetings from Germany

[@kenvanmoorhem8280]

Thanks Quinn! Keep 'em coming....

[@danielstewart3507]

These tips are pretty cool Quinn! Great video.

[@kmet2000]

Hi, the dead center trick is great! BTW - I saw you struggling on getting the right feeds and speeds on aluminum. Try rubbing alcohol. Any feed / speec will work great. And parts will come out clean.

[@Armedlegally]

Quinn! If I could give you three thumbs up I would. Whats interesting is I love playing in my hobby shop and I'm trying to get my wife to do a few things with me. Well you're helping in that area and you just don't realize it. So later on today were going to go out and try a few things together!! WOOOHOOOOO

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Nice😃! Really dig that dead center trick. Not stupid whatsoever 😊. Thanks, Quinn😁.

[@2WHEELSor2WINGS]

Loved the 4 jaw tricks. Easy when you know how! 😎

[@kimjeppesen2172]

Hi Quinn, I simply love Your videos - You're a great machinist! I'm learning a lot from You and getting loads of inspiration - thanks for sharing. I got a small tip for You though. I watched Your video on patreon where You're making the phone clamp. When You turn the hinge pin and filing/deburring/champfering (?) the edge, You mention that You have to be careful with the file so close to the chuck, and I, of course, totally agree. But to avoid the file shooting into Your hip, just have the tip of the file longer towards the back of the machine, ie past the chuck, so You are using more or less the part of the file closer to the handle. This way You should be more safe - Yatzy ;) Keep the great videos coming

[@Blondihacks]

In fact, I cover that exact tip in my deburring video! Thank you for the kind words.

[@kimjeppesen2172]

@@Blondihacks So I had to watch Your deburring video also - obviously ;)

[@geckoproductions4128]

Loved it! Well done. Thanks

[@Goguleroma]

Abut che soft copper jackets you can do a rought press template and save a lot of time by pressing the copper into the form.

[@SteveSummers]

Thank you. I enjoyed them😁

[@Blondihacks]

I liked yours a lot too. 😁

[@SteveSummers]

@@Blondihacks Thanks👍

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Nice tips, Quinn!

[@fepatton]

I knew the four-jaw useful for something other than giving me a heart attack trying to center work in it! That offset drilling trick is great.

[@knafis]

trick # 3 phenominal , i m in r &d for so many years , never thought about that , simply wonderfull

[@mrcpu9999]

on the round stock, could you stick a vblock in there to clamp against?

[@airwolf08]

Hello great video by the way,do have the files for the 3d printed dial indicator holder it look fantastic and such a good idea,many thanks

[@Blondihacks]

You bet! I have two different indicator holder designs: www.thingiverse.com/Blondihacks/designs

[@airwolf08]

Many thanks for your time and effort I will try and print one myself

[@lawrencepoppert5187]

The video was helpful. Thank you. On the subject of chucks--do you know the difference between a D1-5 and a D1-6 chuck? I thought it had to do with the number of studs, but apparently it does not. I would appreciate any information. Thanks

[@bostedtap8399]

Hi Lawrence Poppert, the "D" refers to an American Cam lock standard of fitting, the numbers after refer to spindle nose dimensions. Look up here.www.smalltools.com/lathe-spindle-nose-identification-chart/ Hope this helps?

[@DomManInT1]

The original technique of milling was actually called rotary filing and was done with the cutting tool mounted in the lathe chuck and the work piece mounted on the lathe cross slide.

[@rexhorning5994]

Thank you, dead center trick will come in handy!

[@Worrsaint]

Use the live center to press the part up against the jaws using your center punched hole. Lightly snug down your 4 jaws and you have it dialed in pretty close. You can indicate with the dead center after if you need the accuracy. I used that trick to rough in a 4 jaws on existing bores/holes or when I had a center hole already in the part all the time. Usually gets you within a few thou depending on how close your tail stock is and saves time.

[@JanBinnendijk]

a "Trick" i learnt at school, back in 1984/1985.. was opening the 4 jaws wide enough, to put the part against the chuck with the Tailstock Center, then bring in the jaws to clamp it, and then back off the tailstock, and put the deadcenter in between.. then you only have like 0.5-0.2 mm to adjust to get it dead in the middle..

[@moth.monster]

These tips really kept me on my toes!

[@ktheis1]

'Bolt circles on the lathe' That phrase just saved me having to buy a rotary table. Thank you!

[@Grappa96]

Add this to your basket of 4 jaw tricks. Works quite well.

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

The copper jaw thing, I made mine from cheap copper pipe, I cut it lengthwise with a tin snips, then annealed it with a torch. Made it quite easy to work with.

[@forrestaddy9644]

Alternative: buy a few feet of annealed bare copper wire from the electrical dept of your fav big box store of a size that nestles in the jaw serration. Measure the diameter of your work and cut off a length that will wrap most of the way around. 3 times the diameter is close enough. Make a ring of the wire and slip it over the diameter to be chucked. After a dozen jobs you accumulate enough rings so the need for new ones drops to replacement level. The beauty of the narrow rings is they allow you to bump the far end of the work so you can dial in the full length very presicely for center driling. The ugly part is if the chucked surface is too smooth the work can slip axially under heavy cuts or drill feeds. The same is true of the design Quinn demonstrated. Axial slip is something to keep in mind unlees the work is blocked or solidly shouldered against movement. One thing, be sure the copper ring lies in the plane of rotation, preferably in a jaw serration. If it's skewed the part will tend to nutate (wobble so the part axis follows a cone.) If your four jaw lathe chuck jaws are smooth ie, have no annular serrations, you might consider grinding in at least one shallow groove. Do this in the lathe with the jaws locked on a short slug gripped at the heel. A Dremel or die grinder will do the job. Use a mointed point grinding wheel B-70 if 1/8 shank or A-36 if 1/4 shank. Dress the included angle to 90 degrees symmetrically on the radial plane. Two sets of jaws are handy: one ser smooth, one set serrated

[@Gottenhimfella]

I like the notion of being able to bump the axis true for long (eg shaft) work. I suppose this could also be done with soft steel wire, which would permit of gripping a bit tighter? Hardened C clips from round wire were sometimes used for gudgeon (wrist) pin retention (and can be made by starting to make a spring but changing your mind and cutting it into rings) but I guess these would mark the work, and perhaps not even conform well enough to develop a secure grip?

[@flaviovianna4889]

Best machinning channel ever!

[@britishreaction54]

When you want to drill or bore an eccentric hole in the 4 jaw, engage the tailstock centre with the centre punch mark and clamp it to the face of the 4 jaw with it. Snug the 4 jaw's 4 jaws on the part. THEN do the trick with the dead centre and dial it in. Takes a lot less hands and you will be very near even before you begin dialling in.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Great tip. One further observation: if the amount of eccentricity is more than can be accommodated (because, as BH points out, one jaw can no longer reach far enough), provided you're only drilling and (gently) boring, it may work out OK (depending on the diameter of the work relative to the eccentricity) to leave one jaw off, and make as if you have a universal 3 jaw chuck.

[@gregschultz2029]

That was the comment I was going to add ,much easier !!!

[@billsaunders1879]

Wow thank you. Pretty new to machining. Definitely have more lathe than knowledge. Great video

[@bradyoung6663]

Just a tip if anyone cares to read this. To help get sharper bends put a small notch at the end of each bend/line. I've bent tons of sheet metal and it really helps.

[@Blondihacks]

That would have helped a lot! Great tip! I’m terrible at sheet metal work. 😁

[@bradyoung6663]

@@Blondihacks So was I. Then a little old mad showed me that. I'm not sure how it works with metal over .050" though. Great video. Happy making.

[@manuelsalinas686]

U can cut some aluminum shims and notch the ends so u can hold tight with rubber bands. Notch the shims somewhat like the little tabs that seal the loaf of bread,opposite towards each other.quick and cheap

[@BruceBoschek]

Excellent tips! Thanks.

[@MrZhefish]

I used to squeze a part that was oversize not between the two opposing sides by reversing the jaws but between two adjacent jaws. that way i did not had to remove any of them and flip around. works quite well too.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Me too. The work (in the simplest case, a piece which looks rectangular from the top, the front and the side) is laid across the chuck face, with the long axis at 45 deg (like this, _/_ viewed from the tailstock) while the jaws are oriented vertical and horizontal (Like this + ). If you take light cuts with a very firm jaw grip, you can machine a piece as long as the swing of the lathe, something normally not possible using a chuck.

[@Grappa96]

Great suggestions!

[@grantlockridge9354]

If you use a spring loaded tap follower instead of a dead center you don't have to back off the tailstock when you make your beginning course adjustments...

[@jasonchaney5382]

I need to get a new 4 jaw. I got one with my old ass Atlas Craftsman lath, but a lot of the threads on the jaw screws were striped off.

[@carlosmaldonado8600]

Thanks!!

[@merlin357]

What sort of coolant are you using in the spray bottle?

[@Blondihacks]

That’s WD-40, which I use for aluminum and copper.

[@toolbox-gua]

This a actually a treat!

[@johnmav8309]

Very good! Thank you!

[@Machine_NZ]

Great video Quinn, thanks for the upload

[@paulmorrey4298]

Thanks Quinn

[@mxcollin95]

All great tips! (None were stupid) Thanks for sharing! 👍