New LARGER dials for my Lathe - Part 3

[@mlw5252]

I watch a lot of YT videos and have to say your techniques and detailed explanations are among the best I have seen. Greatly appreciate the hard work and generosity of your time and expertise that you share with all of us. I have learned a lot from your videos.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Wow... thanks for the great compliment, and you are welcome!

[@johncrable3349]

Wow-wee. ...the last comparison shot said it all. Very nice work. Thanks for sharing and have a happy day!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... and yes, it's a huge difference!

[@1889michaelcraig]

I'm impressed with the stamping method. Outstanding job!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks. Yeah the stamping was fairly simple but it worked well

[@jeffanderson1653]

Hey that’s great. The scribed marks and numbers are crystal clear. I paid attention to your saw blade method. Good old American ingenuity

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... I think I spent $8 on the blade. Steel blade are getting harder to find but no need for carbide in this case.

[@alanjackson4397]

I watched all three excellent job thanks for sharing

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool... glad you like them

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're very welcome. Thanks for watching

[@joeybobbie1]

Another Great Job Winky. I have a little Atlas Lathe and need to redo the Dials on it. I think they are even smaller than your original Dials. I just hope they turn out as nice as yours.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, the dials are easier than you might think. Just be sure to build the number stamping jig

[@JamesDedmon]

Yes that is quite the improvement. Well thought out process

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yeah, it's a fairly extreme improvement! Way better. I have to give Tubalcain (MrPete) credit for the idea although I think I added a bit to the process.

[@grahameblankley3813]

Very good video, I like how you stamped the dials turned out very clear.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@EverettsWorkshop]

Nice job on the dials, they came out looking very professional. Thanks for sharing, I need to make a new dial and handle for my rotary table and this gives me some ideas of how to do a couple of the operations.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... one thing I would do different. I'd use a 4-jaw and indicator to center the work after I removed it from the chuck. Despite the fact that I marked the chuck my dials didn't re-center perfectly.

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

Looking good! It’s always fun to use the tool to make that tool better

[@WinkysWorkshop]

For sure!

[@lloyd4768]

I have a Logan 200 and I'm going to follow your lead and redo my sails, they look great!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks - be sure and watch part one and two. Also, the most critical aspect is making sure the stock is centered in the chuck. If I was going to do it again I would use a 4 jaw and dial it in.

[@peterparsons3297]

i like that, been thinking abut making a set of more readable dials for my lathe and mill

[@WinkysWorkshop]

It's much easier than you might think. Go deeper than you think you need to with the scribe.

[@bobkelly2447]

Fantastic ! I just performed surgery on the compound's dial and I couldn't agree more that it was poorly designed ! i tore into it because I could not set the dial to zero ... and then after I loosened the setscrew in the dial it quit turning with the handle..... that's no good ! but you solved both problems in one shot setting the backlash and fixing the dial to turn with the hand crank ! .... my lathe will definitely get this upgrade ! thank you..... I just need to get a 100 tooth saw blade ! LOL.... thank you Kind sir ! might I suggest a bit of a recess in the face of the dial part that touches the reference dial.... as that would reduce the friction as the dial turns .... I was thinking about 1/8" or 3/16" in from the edge with the scribe lines on it and then go in with a step to the center hole..... reducing the friction would help the dial not to "SLIP" although your use of a large surface area on the inner part of the dial should keep that from ever happening..... but you never know. ( guys like me who drown everything in oil might have a slipping problem ! LOL.....) thanks again ! keep up the great to the point videos I love them ! Bob........... Bob.......

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the comment. Yes the dials were a huge improvement. 1.45" diameter is adequate but go bigger if you have the room. My cross slide moved over the dial and limited the diameter so I added an extension. The 2 inch dial is great but probably not worth the trouble of adding the extension but if you have the room, GO BIG.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Very nice job mate

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@jonathanr7436]

Very nice job sir

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thankyou sir

[@johnfry9010]

Nice job !

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@roughrooster4750]

Excellent upgrade.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I agree, it helps a lot to be able to see the dials!

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

I was going to say scotch brite pad and oil on the last one , But you nailed it with the paper .. Looks AWESOME !!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, scotch bright might do well although steel wool didn't do much.

[@rickpalechuk4411]

Nice series, thanks for sharing. What might look nice is to finish it off with an acorn nut, would also be easier on the fingers. Cheers

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's a good idea! Thanks, glad you liked the video!

[@anthonycash4609]

I made and finished the parting off tool actually I made 2 of them, for two different size blades. Works great just like you said. Now on to the dials. On the compound I see you made a smaller sleeve and then put a bushing over it to get the larger dial. Why not just make the dial one piece and drill the hole in the center of it to the size of the compound screw. That way it would only be 2 different parts. The dial itself and the reference dial. Made the indexing bracket and mounted it today out of the circular saw blade.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's great on the cut off tools! On the dials: My first set on my Logan 200 I used aluminum and used the old dial as the hub. For the new dial and on the second lathe (Logan 820) I made a hub kind of like the original dial. The reason for using the dial OR hub to mount the main dial is that the 3/8" shaft has a key way in it. I like to install a set screw with a small piece of nylon under it to create drag or friction so that I can grab the handle and set the dial back to zero. The nylon gets stuck in the key way. The original Logan dial was kind of the same although it was a simple set screw. If you tied to reset the dial the key way would sometimes interfere. If you are working with a different lathe you may have different option. Good luck, I hope that answered your questions.

[@anthonycash4609]

@@WinkysWorkshop thank you for the reply. My lathe is a South bend and the compound dial on it is only 2 peices outer and inter dials with the hole in the center the size of the shaft or cross slide screw. If I do the small bushing and add the dial to the top of it how do I keep it on and not from walking off the bushing. The way it's made now the outer dial has a taper cut to the front of it and it rides against the thumb handle. To keep it from ridding in and out on the screw. Do you give out your e-mail address I may can send some pictures. You have helped me on many occasions and have always answered my questions. And I thank you for that. You are more help than you can ever imagine. And your projects are always top notch.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@anthonycash4609 mark21056 at that big search engine company

[@firearmsstudent]

Excellent video!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@tomasgomez9175]

Eres 100 % Sabio and excelent Lathe Man , sabes de todo .-

[@tooltimechris7217]

Thats a real Nice update on the lathe! Great job

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, I agree, very easy to read.

[@darrenfloen2693]

nice job

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Looks great thanks for sharing!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Your welcome

[@xkabedaruhe2956]

It sure looks nice!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, I was surprised it turned out so well myself.

[@terrycannon570]

Mark I watched all 3 parts again and also at some time in the past I also watched Mr. Petes. I need to do this to my old Clausing 100 but make them removable so as not to alter the original machine. did you by any chance check the graduations against a dial indicator? Not that it matters the finish numbers on the micrometer is what counts but just curious how accurate the saw blade is in dividing the graduations.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

The graduation will always be dead on unless the lead screw is worn and even then you'd have to measure multiple turns to see it. I did check mine and they were perfect. If you think about it, if the tooth spacing was off even an 1/16" on an 8-inch blade that would be 1/4th of one increment or .00025". Of course the spacing on a saw is probably within .002" or less so you'd never see it. I think the dials on my Logan 200 slipped over the existing dials.

[@shannonsloan7246]

Your end result is clearly better than factory. But please, help me understand something. Doesn’t diameter of the dial characteristics of the lead screw directly affect exactly how far the tool travels in or out? I feel like I’m missing something. It would appear to me that the outer Diameter of the dial (which ultimately controls the layout of the spacing) would have to be precisely measured

[@WinkysWorkshop]

- Let me see if I can explain- As long as there are 100 evenly spaced lines everything works. A smaller dial (like the original) the lines will be so close together that it's hard to read. The saw blade has 100 teeth so each scribe line will be 1/100th of a rotation no matter how large. If the dial 8 inch in diameter the spacing would be the same as the teeth on the saw blade. All lead screw made in the US are 10 TPI (*) meaning one turn is 1/10" or .100". Yes I agree... much better than the originals... they were almost unusable. *To clarify, there are many newer lathes with a lead screw that is 20 TPI on the cross slide. This eliminates the need to divide by two when working with diameters. On older lathes like mine, if you want to remove .010" from the total diameter you move the dial .005" (.005 removed from both sides is .010). I hope this helps.

[@shannonsloan7246]

Winky, I get it now. You explanation on was logical. Thank you. I am a new(er) viewer and have taken a lot of interest in your content. The designs and application if your projects inspire me to continue on with my metal lathe build. (Even though the difficulty can be deflating. Keep it up

[@freethinkerofny9187]

Great job! Can you elaborate on the fixture for holding the stamps, I’m impressed with how your numbers turned out.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This video is the last one of 3 part. I went into a bit more detail in Part-2. Let me know if you have already watched part-2. If you have I'll try and go into more detail. (link is at the end of this video)

[@bowlweevil4161]

I use a socket cap screw for the outer ring lock then I can adjust it with fingers a lot of these type screws have knurled head makes easy to turn good vid thanx

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Cool... socket head are nice.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I've done the same. That's a good way to do it. I used a nylon tipped set screw which hold the dial unless I force it to move. Either way works well for me.

[@mikebarton3218]

I think you will soon get tired of picking up an Allen key to adjust the dial. You might consider making a nylon tipped knurled headed set screw instead. Very good videos. Please keep them coming. Best regards. Mike

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, the set screw is nylon tipped. I can slip the dial without adjusting the set screw

[@beinghuman9137]

🙋 Hi ' 🌹 sir ' excellent 🌷 👌 good idea 👏 👍 Thanks 👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@scottlundy257]

I use thumb screws on my dials no tool required nice job by the way

[@WinkysWorkshop]

That's a good way to do it. I used a nylon tipped set screw which hold the dial unless I force it to move.

[@terryk1379]

I have a question, how did you tap the hole for the jam screw? My taps are too short. It’s like 1.25”.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm not sure what screw you are talking about but the dial thickness is less than 1/2"

[@terryk1379]

@@WinkysWorkshop I think I'd messed up and didn't bore the 1/2" hole deep enough. I ended up drilling the 1/4" threaded hole out some so my tap could cut the threads clear through. Thanks.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@terryk1379 Good deal! Glad you figured it out.

[@kerrywil1]

Mark what is the diameter on the compound? Thanks

[@WinkysWorkshop]

1.5" or slightly under.

[@gregfeneis609]

Phil Lynne paint 👍

[@WinkysWorkshop]

and fred

[@jerryblankenship9908]

Would you make a new dial for my atlas 12'' lathe it is a 1971 Atlas

[@WinkysWorkshop]

No but I'll make a video that shows you how to do it.

[@stevemccurry6722]

Where to get a dial indexing wheel to make a graduated dial in thousandths. I see You use a saw blade??

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes, a 100 tooth saw will work for any dial and lead screw that has 10 treads per inch.

[@tomasgomez9175]

Estoy buscando una Lathe Logan 820 en Ebay USA a buen precio y transporte . O me voy a EEUU a vivir

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I love my Logan 820 but there many other good lathes Ebay is very high priced on lathes.

[@tomasgomez9175]

@@WinkysWorkshop Pásame algún enlace para verlos y comparar precios amigo Winkys