New LARGER dials for my Logan 820 lathe - Part 1

[@kerrywil1]

This about the 4 time I have watched this over the years. Every time I watch I see some thing I can do with my lathe. Thank you

[@WinkysWorkshop]

You're welcome!

[@stemer1149]

Very very nice, I particularly like the idea of extending the feed screw. Very much looking forward to part two!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yes, I am excited about the larger dials too.

[@tommccully2109]

Another great learning video. Keep up the great work. Thank you.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, will do!

[@dorinsirbu9273]

I only wish you would make couple more to sell to others like me. Appreciate the video. I’ve watched Mr.Pete doing dials but never think about extending the shaft. Great thinking and nice job.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I never thought about selling dials. I think laser engraving might be a better way to mass produce dials but you got me thinking! Yes the extended lead screw will allow a much larger dial. On a past lathe (a Logan 200) I made the dials 1.5-inch and they cleared the cross slide. Still, it's silly to have a dial you can't read when the cross slide is back out and bigger is better.

[@dorinsirbu9273]

Thank you for the reply. There are so many of us out there, that would like what you’re are doing but are not so handy like you or don’t have the time and patience to take such an undertaking. Scratch lines would do just fine with punched numbers. Actually I’ve started getting ready for the task, buying a 100 teeth saw blade (still in rapping) but life and health didn’t let me do it. But I would love to have that improvement done to my Montgomery ward / Logan lathe.

[@JamesDedmon]

I like the idea of extending the hand wheel out.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks.... cant wait to make the dials. Right now I am waiting on a set of number punches. The set that I used on the last dials were poorly made. The numbers were randomly positioned on the end of the punch. I want these dials to look good.

[@gregfeneis609]

Nice problem solving. Looks like you've got it dialed in

[@WinkysWorkshop]

:o)

[@grahameblankley3813]

Hi,the first thing I made for my brand new lathe was a dial,the original was ok for diameter size but the markings needed to be set out better, you will find a great improvement, enjoyed your video subscribed, from Coventry UK.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for subscribing. I've made several before but never over 1.5". I'm excited about larger dials.

[@raymondj8768]

The man always stops .003 away from dead on lol hes a badass !!!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Of course

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Winky, Another very enjoyable watch, I’m really looking forward part 2, Ill be interested in how you setup to get the increment spacing’s, thank you mate, ATB Matty

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Matty, hopefully the new video will be posted within a week.

[@daveticehurst4191]

A well planned and executed job, just a suggestion, the clamping screw. You did not need such a long bolt to clamp onto your existing leadscrew, you could have used a standard grub screw 3/4" or 1" long and a piece of rod to make up the difference in length, brass or steel 3/16" diameter. In that way you would not have a square headed bolt sticking out to catch your fingers on.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'll have to look at that

[@CraftedChannel]

As an option, the extended handle shaft could have been drilled for set screw from the lead-screw end only and too a much shorter depth. Then the handle shaft drill from the operator end only the large enough for the hex driver. Leaving you a a little extra meat for the key. Also, a floating dowel pin with the set screw threaded only in the handle end pressing on the dowel pin would allow for a smaller hole???? I really liked the use the pin-in-hub to drive the system eliminating the need for a key. Nice project.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I actually considered hiding the set screw inside as you suggested but I was a bit concerned with getting the bore depths right. It was certainly doable but I think the method I used was easier. Plus I didn't have the needed end mill to cut the small key way anyway.

[@CraftedChannel]

@@WinkysWorkshop I like your solutions. I got lucky when I first started collecting machinist tools and got a 520 Kennedy box full of stuff. In there were a bunch of woodruff key-way cutters. I did buy one recently to fill in a missing size. Our available tooling is like a maze with open paths and dead ends determining what is possible.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@CraftedChannel - So true. I do have a couple of woodruff key cutters although not the right size. A woodruff key would have worked but the original was tall and narrow. I would say this was probably to get enough depth in a shaft with threads.

[@kevinunderwood2931]

Nice job Mark

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks Kevin! Good to hear from you.

[@jediscuba]

You've done a fantastic job of making a good machine even better ... my question is, are you willing to make a set and sell it?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I made a few sets for logan lathe owners but they were the smaller dials (1.5"). What kind of lathe do you have?

[@jediscuba]

@@WinkysWorkshop Pretty much the exact same late you have. Mine is a Logan 821, same as the 820 but on legs ,,,, Iis there a way I may contact you directly. I checked out FB but could not find Winky's Machine Shop.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@jediscuba [e-mail]

[@jediscuba]

@@WinkysWorkshop I sent a message to your [e-mail] mail box ..... Steve

[@danielzunigagutierrez6300]

Takes a vita of experience to eyeball threads like you did. I used to do it.

[@metalworksmachineshop]

Nice work, looking forward to seeing the finished product

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, Hopefully within a week I'll have the dials finished.

[@pyromedichd1]

Cutting oil and a HSS tool bit would probably have gotten you smoother threads. Carbide likes higher speeds. A set of inexpensive thread wires used with a micrometer would allow you to measure your threads and bring them to specs as cataloged in many machinist handbooks and probably even available on line. I have the same lathe with the same small dials so I have great interest in your outcome. Larger dials are on my "to do" list.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the comment and you are correct on all accounts. Although I have had near perfect results from this carbide insert in the past. After making the video I went back and checked the height of the tool and it was too low. Absolutely oil would have helped... just a silly oversight on my part. I have some of those thread gauge wires. I probably should have used them. Laziness on my part, I didn't want to figure how to use them again so I took a chance. Yes I need to get busy and make the dials. I've made quite a few in the past... six I think. So I know I'll have good results but I want these to be extra nice. The hardest part is getting the numbers right. My past dials looked good but not great in this regard.

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

pyromedichd1 as a machinst i know wires are accurate..but even after 45 years cant stand them rather use a thread mic...get them at swapmeets cheap usually five to eight dollars or one with anvils diff pitches around fifty or so usually far swapmeets..or if in your area toolswapusa.com

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@miguelcastaneda7236 I agree about the wires... I'll investigate the thread mic. Thanks

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Cool project. The ones on my Atlas aren't quite so small, but still hard to see, especially on the compound. Your radius / form tool at 6:20ish would chatter less at lower rpms.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks... I'd say you are right about the chattering.

[@CNCSwede]

Good work and a nice video sir! Longing for the next video 😊

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks, hopefully part two will be posted within a week.

[@CNCSwede]

Winky's Workshop Okej great! I have a Swedish lathe named Blomqvist from 1959 and it's a copy of South Bends lathes. My dials was almost unreadable so I printed new ones on my 3D printer. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3365388 It Will be interesting to se how you deal with it! Cheers Eric

[@jerryblankenship9908]

That nut that holds the dials I used thread measuring wires & it come out 1.259 you think that is 1'' 1/4''

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Probably. I've only used wires a few times but there is a formula and you have to subtract. I'd have to read up to refresh my memory. Honestly, it doesn't matter what it is as long as you have the thread per inch right you just measure the threads you cut with wires and make them the same. The only time you have to identify the diameter is when you use a tap or die. As long as the stock you start with is slightly larger than the OD of the threads without the wires.

[@jerryblankenship9908]

Atlas 12'' Lathe on the saddle the big nut that holds the dial on what size are the treads

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I'm not sure. You can measure the TPI with a thread gauge and then measure the diameter. The diameter will be very slightly smaller but very close.

[@jerryblankenship9908]

It shows 20 teeth the treaded saft is 1'' 31/128@@WinkysWorkshop

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@jerryblankenship9908 1-1/4" - 20. Just cut a bar until the threads fit. The trick is to try them without taking the stock out of your chuck. You'll have to measure the old threads with wires and make the new threads the same. Be sure to take a file to the to the threads when you get the size you want. The tips of the threads need to be slightly blunt.

[@williecuellar3627]

Nice job

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks

[@firearmsstudent]

Do you wait before measuring? I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I always seem to find that my measurements are off if I take them right after cutting.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I never wait but I might consider doing so if the metal was extremely hot. I guess the tolerances I'm working with are not super tight.

[@libertyforamericanow]

Dang mrpete. You were young in this video. Was this shot in the 80's with vhs?

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Yep... that is where I got the idea which I mentioned in the video. But I'll take that as a compliment, Mr. Pete is an all time favorite of mine and an excellent teacher. I may occasionally have something great to offer but I'm not in the same category and Mr. Pete! I think I took these dials a step further however. Mr. Pete made a 2 inch dial and it limited the cross slide travel. I made an extension so the dial didn't limit the travel.

[@woodscreekworkshop9939]

That will be a huge improvement!

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I totally agree. Hopefully I will have them done within a week.

[@shauntucker5145]

I Need a 4 jaw for my powr-kraft. What size and make is your 4 jaw

[@WinkysWorkshop]

This is a wonderful chuck although not quite as solid as my 5 inch Logan chuck. It's made by Union and it is 8-inch. I have no idea how old it is but I'd say it's pre-1950. What makes it so much better than most new chucks is that it's only about 3" deep. I have a Shars 6" 4-jaw that is more like 5 inches deep. Making cuts 5 or 6 inches away from your spindle is a problem when the spindle is only 1.5 inch! Lots of chatter! This same chuck on a larger lathe would great. Good luck finding a chuck like this. I got this one on ebay.

[@gagasmancave8859]

you could have drill through the wood ruf key slot and put the pin in there , this would have saved modifying the hand wheel

[@WinkysWorkshop]

I actually thought about that but the key slot is a lot wider than it is tall. It probably would have worked but if I remember right the pin would be very small. The hole in the handle cant be seen anyway. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@gagasmancave8859]

@@WinkysWorkshop ahhhh ok , lateral thinking is good if it works , love your videos

[@fpreston9527]

Superb

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks for the compliment!

[@gregfeneis609]

Not meant as a criticism, but I imagine you weighed improving the dials against adding on a DRO.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

A DRO would be nice but honestly I don't mind the dials at all. I have considered putting s DRO on the carriage however. That would be very handy.

[@ericloveless4617]

Big Eric 10/1/19 I know from first hand experience that a 10 pitch lead screw on a lathe is very common. I also know that a one hundred space dial IS NOT good either, it needs to be two hundred space in order to read on the diameter in one thousands of an inch. I also know why you did not go that route. You could not find a 200 tooth blade. You do not need a 200 space blade all you need is what you all ready have. There is a simple mod to what you all ready have so you can make 200 spaces. My company purchased a brand new lathe (PrecisonMathews), the lathe has a ten pitch leadscrew with a 100 space dial...one space equals 0.002 thousands on the diameter.....not good! If you like the distance between marks on your newly made dial it will require a dial twice the O.D. From your video it appears you have room for a larger dial.

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Hello Eric, good comment. I'm aware of everything you said and the space between the marks is why I did not go with 200 marks. On my larger dial I could have squeezed in 200 but the smaller would have been an issue. I really don't mind doing the math. I'm very surprised your new lathe has the 10 TPI lead screw, most new lathes do not. As a compromise I have thought about making a second set of numbers and using every 5 marks as a ten (0-190). It would be very easy to position the dial between marks for a .001 change in diameter. Without extending the lead screw on the Logan a 1.45" dial is about as big as you can go.

[@ericloveless4617]

@@WinkysWorkshop When I finish the dial for the lathe at work I will sent you some pictures. Eric

[@WinkysWorkshop]

@@ericloveless4617 Sounds good

[@tomasgomez9175]

Los Tornos o Lathes Ingleses eran de la marca MYFORD , me he acordado ahora www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Myford-Rodney-mill-attachement-for-your-Myford-lathe/312833018658?hash=item48d64d0b22:g:T-UAAOSwCgldwX~-

[@WinkysWorkshop]

interesting

[@tomasgomez9175]

Hola Winky´s (Cual es tu nombre ? ) mira el MYFORD que está en venta en EBAY.CO.UK www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Myford-Super-7-Lathe-With-Gear-Box-Imperial-Metric-Rewired-for-sale/163929951053?hash=item262afc8b4d:g:xzMAAOSwxGBdEIb6 Yo sé que esto te iba a gustar verlo .- Un Saludo de tu amigo Tomás

[@WinkysWorkshop]

Thanks