Wiring the ratgdo 2.5 board into a LiftMaster garage door opener

If you're a bit confused about how to wire in the ratgdo 2.5 board into your Chamberlain LiftMaster garage door opener, here's a walkthrough of the process.
To purchase the ratgdo board, visit Paul Wieland's Github page: paulwieland.github.io/ratgdo/

[@markdadof2]

OUTSTANDING! Grabbed the ladder and beat up iPad and followed along. I don't comment on videos much but this made the install super easy. thank you.

[@NickGarvey]

Thank you! Once you said it was a passthrough it all made way more sense!

[@DowntownLeroyBrown]

Thanks so much for making this video! I was super excited when I got my RATGDO in, but after looking at the wiring diagram, I got nervous that the install would be a lot more difficult than I was hoping. After watching your video and pre-wiring my RATGDO, installation only took me a few minutes!!

[@mickp10]

Thanks for a great video, I don't know what MyQ Chamberlain was thinking.

[@BigDeal3315]

Thanks for the video, especially the part on how the terminals worked. It wasn't obvious to me. Ratgdo is now installed and working!

[@NickEscobedo]

Super helpful. Was able to get mine up and going quickly because of your video. Thank you!

[@BrandonSnodgrass]

Appreciate the video. Just ordered my board today. I was looking at the wiring diagram and scratching my head. This is helpful. Looks like a breeze! And now I wait for the board to arrive…

[@peterberkley1591]

"So we can give the middle finger to chaimberlame for screwing us all over!"😁 Love it! Great tutorial by the way for anyone who is curious about the wiring... Now just waiting for my ratgdo (s) to arrive!

[@androidpretz]

Thanks for this video. Glad I wasn't the only one that found the wiring confusing

[@DavidTrebacz1]

Thanks for the video - helped a bunch to retire my dependance on MyQ and get my garage opener into home assistant. The ESP32 integration worked great with my ratgdo 2.5i. The ESP32 version of firmware has some really amazing features, not available elsewhere.

[@poprm]

Yo thanks a lot, hope everyone that gets their ratgdo boards find this easy. Very helpful!

[@Dr.Attaya]

This was really really helpful. I've never wired... and was intimidated by the diagram.. Thank you for doing this.. Was able to do it quickly after studying this.

[@darkamikazex]

Just got mine and this is the exact info I was looking for. Appreciate it! (-EDIT- wow I just noticed you just uploaded this like 30 min ago lol Couldn't have had better timing)

[@wesleykirkland7150]

Thanks for the video! This really helped me out, oddly enough I found your reddit comment after this video.

[@miles267]

Thank you SO much for making this video! I’m about to do this to multiple garage doors this week!

[@JamR275]

Thanks so much - very helpful and share the sentiment on MyQ & Liftmaster/Chamberlain. I've been wanting to get rid of that mess for local control for a long time and this has pushed me over the edge to go the RATGDO route. Thanks for the great video - will be using it when mine arrives hopefully shortly!

[@BenedetFamily]

Super helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make this instructional video!

[@kfrobert]

Just received my RATGDO board after 3 weeks wait for back order. Gonna follow your instructions to install..

[@neil12011]

I’m running a Ratgdo with a Control4 system. I just used the 3 wire leads (red , white, and black) and twisted them together with the existing leads. I didn’t have to use any of the other connections or pass through ports, works just fine. I also used a 3m fastener to stick the board directly to the back (I have the same motor as you) There’s a flat space next to the serial numbers you can just stick it to, no mess, and secure. Cheers.

[@AndrewReifel]

ah this is what i did on 2.53i. don't use any of the pass through on ratgdo and just took three wires and put them into GDO and it seems to just work. Do I need to use pass through?

[@neil12011]

@@AndrewReifel Not unless it’s a dry contact opener. If it works now, you’re good.

[@Diamonddrake]

@@AndrewReifelpassthrough only exists to prevent you from having to put 2 wires in one connector (the connectors technically are not designed to accept more than 1 wire even though that generally works fine it's a single wire connector)

[@aniljain5965]

Got my board today i am itching to show my middle fingure to MYQ hopefully shortly.

[@Pabla98]

Thank you for this video, makes the RATGDO more appealing to even novice users! More people boycotting MyQ is a great thing

[@Chuoen7]

Thanks for this! Definitely will be referring to this when mine comes!

[@user-db9fi1ci7x]

It's interesting to me that so many people need a video like this. Why aren't the specific details mentioned on the ratgdo website. I couldn't find anything that explicitly said i need to buy wires and a wire stripper or what kind of wires and how to strip and do a good job of it.

[@John-ml4pr]

Thanks for the video. Very helpful.

[@sometin_else]

thank you so much for this video!

[@Nineset]

You are my hero 🙏

[@kevflynn]

Very helpful Thanks.

[@cam_DA_Hawkdriver]

I ordered these devices. Shame on Chamberlain for being greedy bastards. What finally motivated me was seeing that Home Assistant is CarPlay capable. Now, I can open the doors from my car's screen. Pretty awesome! I love Home Assistant.

[@MikeLikesMods]

Helpful!

[@aaron74]

If you want to make those low-voltage wire terminations really nice and clean, look into a ferrule crimper. I've even doubled up conductors into one ferrule. They're really essential for stranded wire with push-in connections.

[@postproductive]

Yeah that’s actually what I ended up doing when I did the final cleanup. Even though I don’t think they are as important to use in low voltage applications like this, they are definitely worth doing from a neatness perspective!

[@postproductive]

This is the ferrule/crimper set I used, for anyone who would like do this. Super cheap and worth having around for things like this (and especially if you have a 3d printer!) www.amazon.com/dp/B07XBLGPCY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[@kevinhilton8683]

@@postproductive I tried to use ferrules yesterday, however the the ferrule didn't sit deep enough into the garage door opener socket -- its like I needed extra long tips. I just kind of gave up and went the bare wires. On the back of the garage door opener near the terminals there is a gauge on how long to strip the wires. The ferrule tips are definitely not as long as this gauge.

[@espressomatic]

@@kevinhilton8683 That's a problem with anything but the thinnest ferrules on the terminals of the garage door opener. I also had to use bare wire for anything that didn't use the 0.5mm (or so) ferrule. The thicker ones just pop right out.

[@covet4me]

Really nice work! I am looking to power the board off that low voltage connection. Have you explored that at all / found resources on how? I just got my boards, installed the software and connected to my network. Wiring is next.

[@bostonmacosx]

I used just an ESP32 which cost $4 and works just fine it also has extra button for open/close which allows me to hit the button once....get out of the garage and 60 secods later it closes automagically......

[@glen4cindy]

I see you using the left side of the white hole here but I've seen other photos using the right side of the white hole. Are these different connections?

[@richardglazer7813]

It would be nice if you did a video on how to download software as well. Great video...

[@postproductive]

Software installation is very straightforward. Roger's Tech Talk runs through the procedure here (at 7:27): kzbin.info/www/bejne/fGesh6htmK54nJY There's another good installation video here (Mac-centric when it comes to the firmware flashing, but still applicable to all platforms when it comes to the firmware configuration): kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGPXk5anZ9GieZI

[@espressomatic]

There are 2 issues with the site/docs and 1 with the physical product that jumped out at me right away. 1. The site shows wiring and mention of a 2.52 board but AFAIK, the latest board to ship is 2.5i - I just got my board over the holidays. 2. The diagram on the site shows the bottom of the board instead of the top. This needs to be changed as when you're using the terminals you'll be pressing them from the top. 3. The terminals are too small to fit anything but the smallest of ferrules - if you're going to use stranded wire, you should always use ferrules - I had to use bare solid wire for some connections. I'm seeing a couple of issues with mine. The first is that the obstruction sensor often stays on "detected" and won't clear. Lastly is that on my Security+ 1.0 LiftMaster Jackshaft there's no "opening" or "closing" status and both UP/DOWN controls are the same thing, just a momentary button. In other words there's no dedicated OPEN and CLOSE commands. Need to find out if replacing the keypad with a different version can remedy that.

[@amithimani8163]

Thank you very much Mel🙏, after instaing this case we still use the myq app will everything work just like before?

[@postproductive]

Yep! I’m actually keeping the MyQ app connection working because I like to use Amazon Key for deliveries, and I also don’t want to make the rest of my family learn a new app just to open the garage door.

[@amithimani8163]

@@postproductive so do we have to do something different or just follow your steps? Are you using ESP home version, can you please post a link for the one you got. Thank again 👍

[@postproductive]

@@amithimani8163 This video is for the ratgdo 2.5 board which can be purchased directly from Paul Wieland (link is in the description). You can flash his board with the ESPHome firmware if you want, but I don’t really see much advantage to it for my needs, as controlling it via mqtt works good enough for me.

[@static_sid]

Hey so I have two wires in my black obstruction on the the garage door opener. One is red other is black-white but both were plugged into the same terminal so what do I plug in the ratgdo

[@AceBoy2099]

I understood the diagram fine once I looked it over, what I don't know is any coding needed for setup/integration. I've been contemplating getting one myself.

[@espressomatic]

You don't need to do any coding of any kind. Nothing to set on either the garage door opener or Home Assistant sides. Just add MQTT (and make sure you're running a broker like Mosquito) and subscribe to the correct topic.

[@elevatedviewstcl]

Just curious what is that other red wire for that thats plugged into your GDO?

[@postproductive]

This is explained in the video at 4:02

[@elevatedviewstcl]

no, not to the RATGDO the other red wire that is plugged into the actual garage door opener@@postproductive

[@postproductive]

That's the other lead to the door mounted GDO button @@elevatedviewstcl

[@TM-hr6nv]

You mention plugging it into a 5V USB power adapter. How many amps is that 5V USB adapter? (i.e. how many amps does the RATGDO need?) Most of my 5V USB adapters are only 1 Amp...is that enough?

[@postproductive]

I just used the same Apple 5V iPhone USB adapter that everyone probably has hundreds of in their home.

[@kevinhilton8683]

If you order the installation kit when you order the RATGDO board it comes with a wall adapter.

[@lectrician7]

Besides being able to operate this if the internet is down what is the benefit of this over the liftmaster wireless operation?

[@postproductive]

The benefit is that you can reliably integrate your garage door openers into a smart home system like Home Assistant or HomeKit. This capability existed before, but Chamberlain kept intentionally breaking the API to torment and annoy Home Assistant users, I suppose to annoy them enough to want to purchase one of their lame, proprietary integration offerings. Read this article at The Verge, for more info: www.theverge.com/23949612/chamberlain-myq-smart-garage-door-controller-homebridge-integrations

[@lectrician7]

Isn’t it just far more simple to use the Liftmaster wifi setup as is (particularly for people who have it built into the units) and install a wifi relay into the 2 wire button circuit? Thats what I did and it’s far easier to wire and setup. I have one for each of my two doors. One is named “my name” Garage and the other is named “my wife’s name” Garage. We also made a group called Both Garages. That way we can operate each individually or both at the same time through our Echo (also works with HomeKit, and Google Home, etc.) by simply asking “Alexa turn on ______ Garage” or Alexa turn on both garages”. The cost is $10 per door vs $45 and only 2 wires to connect along with the usb power. The MyQ app still shows the status of the doors and allows for scheduling etc.

[@melorama808]

@@lectrician7 You can't really use a simple relay (e.g. Shelly, etc) with Security+ 2.0 based openers, unless you're willing to solder a dry contact adapter to a compatible GDO switch, which the vast majority of people are not willing or able to do. The ratgdo is a much simpler, non-invasive method to achieving total local control, while also retaining MyQ app compatibility.

[@postproductive]

@@lectrician7 Another benefit to using ratgdo is that you can get the actual current State information of the garage door opener. So you can set up an automation or controller to open the door halfway, for example (if you use the ESPhome firmware instead of the default mqtt based firmware). Or you can control the light on the opener based on triggers from other smart devices.

[@lectrician7]

Yes correct. But in most practical situations why would need to know if the dor is partially open. Most people need to know the open/closed state and that’s it. As far as the light goes, if I want a light on in the garage and do it remotely, a smart switch connected to a phone or smart home device seems much better solution. I guess my use case doesn’t necessitate a device like this.

[@angf2551]

Works with Google assistant?

[@postproductive]

I don't use Google Assistant with my Home Assistant integrations, but I assume you should be able to expose HA entities to Google Assistant, just like you can with Amazon Alexa. I have my ratgdos working with Alexa without any issues.

[@justinamrhein5573]

Yes, it works great for me. If you want to open it, it'll ask for a PIN (that you previously setup in HA). If you want to close it, then it'll just close.

[@chrisperrywv]

I want a clean garage...

[@bob4k4]

While the video is really helpful in reality, all you have to do is run wires directly from 3 ratgdo connections on theboard to your 3 connections on the chamberlain - you do not have to remove wires from your chamberlain to the ratgdo board - he refers this to this in the video but just did the installation another way - in my opinion, the hard way. No need to use the pass-throughs on the board and it only will be confusing to folks who might lose track of wiring. My board came with maybe a 12 inch piece of triple stranded wire. It was too short to work and too thin, and even though I tinned the strands, they weren't stiff enough to go into the connector block on the Chamberlain. I would recommend using something like telephone wire -insulated thin hard copper in insulation - and just run a wire from each of the three connections noted in the video from board directly to your garage door opener wiring connectors. I used 18 inches of wire and was able to then fold the device up above the garage door opener for storage. It also would be helpful if you want to take it down when you have to reflash the firmware when it's upgraded. I was able to keep the Chamberlain wiring in place and just slipped in another wire. I would be very careful to look at how your wires are connected before hand in case some pop out and you lose track where it goes. Also, there's no need to turn the power off although all the wiring around you can get in the way. There's no high voltage going to any of these connections. I used the HomeKit firmware 0.6 and had two issues. After I installed the software, it would not associate with the Wi-Fi and timed out multiple times as reported on other sites, In reality it does associate and if you look at your router connections , you'll see that the device does connect with an IP address to your Wifi. (curiously when I tried flashing with the MTTQ or EP house, firmware it associated with the Wi-Fi immediately)The other issue I had was after completing the installation is you have to use a QR code to install it the HomeKit Home app. The first two times I did it it establish the icon in the Home app, but it said it was "not connected" (even if the device is not connected to the chamberlain. If it properly installed You'll see both the garage door switch and its light switch.- until you see that it will not be associated from the device into your Home app - the third time it worked. Quite frankly I can't tell you what I did to make it work, but it did so be patient. 0,.6 his beta software, and one has to assume there will be issues that that have not been wrong out. Thanks again for the video -it made me think of alternative ways to do the installation that involved less steps.

[@MatthewMiller-mattdm]

Are there any downsides to doing this the "easy way"?

[@bobknetlcom]

@@MatthewMiller-mattdmno other than saving time and not having to move, wires off the chamberlain to the board, where they ultimately are connected to each other there - so why not connect them at the chamberlain. You achieve the same thing, and he actually refers to this at the beginning of his video saying there’s two ways to do this.

[@bob4k4]

the v0.7.0 Homekit s/w added OTA programming - currently the latest v0.9.0 seems to be rock solid

[@MatthewMiller-mattdm]

What about the connectors on the other side? "Status" for door and obstruction, and the "trigger" connections?

[@bob4k4]

While they're there, you don't have to connect anything to them - just follow the directions in the video.If you have an obstruction sensor already on your door, it's already wired to the chamberlain - it has to be - I break the light to trigger the obstruction sensor as the door closes, the door immediately goes up. Just wire it as it shown in the video.@@MatthewMiller-mattdm