WLtoys K989 Budget Touring Car - Stage1 Drivetrain Fix

[@zarthsan]

I am so thankful for this video (and all your videos on the WLToys 1/28). You are a treasure to the community.

[@puschmannn]

I agree with your opinion. The devotion and accuracy of this person are exceptional.

[@NeoIsrafil]

I'm hoping to put out a few videos with mods that can help with this thing, preferably not using much in the way of glue, and sticking to drilling and small screws and such. Hope I can be as helpful as this channel is when I've got some videos out...

[@Tipman2OOO]

Right 100%

[@rahilbrowne4785]

I cannot even begin to explain how thankful for I am for every single of one of these videos. I’m sure there’s many more feel the same as me.

[@TheStuartstardust]

Just got this car - the +pole of the motor is rubbing on the base plate. So anyone doing state 1 should also make space here, by filling solder or alu base plate. Regardless this is a great tutorial to make it run cooler and longer! 🤓👍

[@jimz1024]

Yeah sure is more!

[@LetsLaberWithMi]

Was looking for this comment. Absolutely grateful for these videos from you man. Thank you ❤

[@munkeynutzmcgraw4680]

Love how these videos go into detail on everything thanks for the info it really helped with my project

[@ovt123]

Just bought one of these cars because of your tutorial series. Thanks for all your hard work Sensei.

[@240zzzap]

Received mine today from BG and took it out for a spin (literally) without prepping it like you. Boy, this thing is crazy fast! It's almost lethal :) The motor does get VERY hot tho'! Thanks for sharing all the tips 'n tricks!

[@sushinsong]

Thank you very much for this series of modding. It's very useful for a lot of people. Great job!

[@PhilipCockram]

Thanks for all the tips and advice Beaver , I think they may have improved them a bit over the years since you made this , IDK . I just got a brand new one and the diffs were a little tight but not bad , Some normal break in helped smooth it out though . I also used some very small pieces of double sided mounting tape under each wheels lower suspension arm and the chassis to act as droop screws would . The car handles much better with this very easy mod IMO . I was also surprised it could take a 3S , 11.1volt lipo battery as well .

[@wearemany73]

These little cars are simply wonderful. I have one and I love it. Everything is stock and it’s sweet as a nut.

[@ramcycle7]

Wow. Just did a build and immediately had issues with tight mesh. Thank you so much I was about to give up!

[@ButtedorFrank]

Just stumbled on you today and I ordered a k989 myself ! ... can't wait to get it and start playing with it ! ... gonna watch the rest of your videos now ! cheers

[@BeaversHobby]

Good luck with the project. Cheers!

[@dominicw8868]

How was it??

[@ButtedorFrank]

@@dominicw8868 still waiting to get it in the mail

[@dominicw8868]

ButtedorFrank damn ): I ordered a rc car about a week ago and I think it’s gonna take forever to arrive ): fuck covid.

[@Boogie_the_cat]

Thanks for this helpful video series. I am new to RC cars and bought a wltoys 284131. I would have been lost and confused without these videos. Especially as to the stiffness of the drive train, and the momentum problem before adjusting. I was planning on learning slowly with the throttle adjustment that is on the transmitter of the 284131, but out of the box, the drivetrain was so stiff that the car would not move until I had the throttle adjustment set to 75%, which was way too fast for a newbie like me😮. Much thanks!

[@rcpatapouf]

So interesting ! I'm gonna modify my car like that tomorrow

[@BeaversHobby]

Thanks. So far there are 7 episodes of this so be sure to check them out.

[@d0nn13br45k0]

Very very nice videos 😁👍 I would say, this is the best tutorial series on WLtoys K989. Keep up the good work and thank you very much !!!

[@patsgaming9346]

Just got one of these deffo doin all of this pays to do bit of research, watched some vids n all the problems u said most of the others who did a first drive out of the box n it sounds familiar problems 🤔 good job Beaver!

[@regularwattagemode7569]

Thankyou for all your great 1/28 scale advice, Ive enjoyed playing with my own K989 and K969 and have made a couple of videos of me drifting on carpet, something you cant find much of. The next video will be a comparison between the Non Gyro K989 and Gyro K969 cars I have. Im very happy to be Featuring your cool channel on my little channel, cheers again for the content.

[@BeaversHobby]

I'm glad my videos are helpful. 😄

[@OswaldBeef]

Regular Wattage Mode which do you like more 69 or 89

[@ParisMal]

excellent video. Thanks a lot. Exactly what I needed for my brand new k989 that came with both difs stuck

[@addicted2rcs49]

Hi there my KZbin friend, thank you very much for all the information in regards to this small RC Drift Car. I've ordered one for myself and looking forward to receiving it. If I ever need any help, I shall let you know. You speak very good English! 👍 👏 👌

[@poiseextinct]

❤ thank you sooo much !!!!! I was able to get the new 284010 and tune up everything its works great!!!! THANKS FOR the knowledge!!!!!!!

[@samwilson6156]

I love this guy's videos, he made the perfect video for my k989 as I am getting one soon ;)

[@wraptgrafix6338]

Such an awesome build series. Had to sub the minute I found your channel.

[@stomsad]

Really enjoyed the content, I also enjoy the K989. I am working on this model to create a drifting monster.

[@cyberneticinterfacemodular3996]

I have a few 1/28th 1/24th scale and smaller brushless and non versions.And other scale trucks buggies and truggy etc.

[@Firda4415]

Hey just wanted to let you know that this vid is really helpful for me 👍 came from 1/10 scale & my 989 diff is a bit stiff. Sanded the edges & remove all excess plastic and glued the rear diff bc I did it for drifting. Now my car moves only by pressing the trim button once which is very great 🙏

[@jimz1024]

Trying to do this myself... Locked the back diff but dont really know where to start with sanding xD... Did you need to "run it in" before it was smooth?

[@Firda4415]

@@jimz1024 you can press the trim button once, if the motor is making sound but your car is not moving, means that you need to sand it more 😂😂 the key is to smooth up excess plastic around the diffs 😁 if sanding is perfect, the car will move with just one press on the trim button

[@jimz1024]

@@Firda4415 OK mate that's perfect, so I should focus on sanding around the diff housing that connects to the gears... Currently makes a noise but doesn't move till right near the end of the trim 😅

[@kahmed7328]

Wow! Those were some amazing tuning tips. Thank you!

[@Izlolz]

Hello Beaver. If I may, the most incorect tune from the car I received was the wheels. They were way to tight. Releasing them a little bit went from not turning with full trim, to turn with only 1 trim step. Have a good day ;)

[@BeaversHobby]

You are extremely lucky! Most of use just got the car with sticky drivetrain, bear mesh, gearbox, the whole shebang.

[@Izlolz]

@@BeaversHobby I did all your mods anyway. One diff was very bad, while the other was ok. I also added silicon grease on the pignons. Thanks for the great videos (which, honestly, made me buy this car ^^)

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Izlolz My pleasure. Good luck and have fun!

[@5scbasher17]

you help so many Rc'ers with this lol nice vid. lots of info!

[@albaniansuperiorshqipetari8055]

I have been looking for this video. This is the problem I have with mine atm. And because of that the car shut down when going fast. The differentials or the driveshaft are running to stiff.

[@XEvil9]

Thats cool man, I believe this project is going to be super good guide

[@roadstar499]

wow thats a lot of time and work...and you better have great eyes... its a shame they don't have a better solution or better car built right ... many people would pay more money for a car that did not need everything taken apart and sanded etc...very good video.. you obviously know these type of cars very well..

[@maximilian799]

Hello Baver. Thanks for this great video. Unfortunately on my new K989 one of the two differentials (front) does not open. It appears that the left and right sides are glued next to one of the 3 screws. In fact, close to the other two it opens, but near the third I can't open It and if I continue to force it will surely break. The other differential opened as easily as in your video. Now it is definitely better. Everything works. Thanks again. 👌

[@BeaversHobby]

You can replace the differentials with Mini-Z AWD or metal differentials bit.ly/3Iq6rWp then use long CVDs. bit.ly/3m1i4bd. Unfortunately the metal diffs will chew through your prop shaft pinion very quickly.

[@maximilian799]

@@BeaversHobby Thank you. I ordered exactly that right now . I've found a kit 2 differential with 4 dog-bones 27mm. Let's wait. ☺️🙏

[@BeaversHobby]

@@maximilian799 Best of luck with the project!

[@GuyslacklusterRcReview]

Love your videos. Like always, you give out so much useful information. I wish wltoys would just sell these in kit forms so the builder can make it work from the get go.

[@BeaversHobby]

A kit without electronics would be fantastic indeed.

[@visualdosage234]

@@BeaversHobby or a rwd rtr wltoys, i know u can get professional ones at this scale, but they could easily create a 60 dollar rwd car that doesn't need modification.

[@johnallenit]

Thanks for sharing. Some great suggestions here.

[@lazyjerryguitarman]

Pretty detailed tuning video very helpfull thanks!!

[@gefect78]

Great work!! thank you very much for sharing your knowledge

[@micardo9491]

I like the video series so much i cant wait for the next Video so cool thanks

[@jamiebrown3533]

Perfect video and series. I used most of your tips for modding K989 to drift spec and I'm very happy so far. I'm thinking about a budget touring car and you make this series. I'm so happy because you are my favorite when it comes to mini cars and you are working on exactly what I want. Perfect! How can I build a budget lap timer?

[@BeaversHobby]

I use Arduino with Infrared Obstacle Avoidance Sensor. Wiring is also simple, vin-5V, gnd-ground and out to digital pin 2. The code is very simple, just print the time whenever something passes it. Here's the code if you want to examine it: drive.google.com/open?id=1dVUi1qUffvZCo8p1b_HTTwQmA1JzwaZZ

[@jamiebrown3533]

Very nice thanks. Maybe you could produce a video with is content?

[@BeaversHobby]

Sure, it'll be a very short one of course but I could make it.

[@jamiebrown3533]

I googled the sensor and learned it only has 10cm range. Is yours modded for more ir range?

[@BeaversHobby]

No, I just drive the car really close to the sensor.

[@toeyteen]

กำลังเล่นรุ่นนี้อยู่เลย งานคุณละเอียดมากครับ

[@fabfullthrottle2282]

Wonderful vidéo. What dony0u thinck about metal diff?

[@BeaversHobby]

It'll destroy your pinion gear very quickly so if you want to upgrade it, you'll have to upgrade the whole thing to metal. Otherwise there are better quality and smoother diffs available from Atomic AMZ/SZ and GL Racing GLA.

[@superchargerone]

Thanks! now I am tempted to get one too!

[@PakWahyu]

Great video buddy 🤩🤩🤩

[@rccartips]

Thanks for posting this.

[@potterg04]

Awesome video 👍 thanks for sharing

[@MohammadHaque-p4h]

Hi. Thanks you for your videos. Do you know if it is possible to add a transponder to the wl toys k989?

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, it is. In the current version there are light ports on the all-in-one unit and they output passthrough from the battery. So if you use that port, you might need a stepdown to whatever volt the transponder runs on. Otherwise if it's 5V you can use the output from the servo port.

[@MohammadHaque-p4h]

@BeaversHobby thank you again for your quick response. I am new to hobby grade rc. I wsd thinking of purchasing the k989 and then adding the lapmonitor min transponder

[@MechanicalMadness]

9:30 what is low voltage cut off? and is it anything to be concerned about with this car?

[@BeaversHobby]

Low voltage cut-off is the system that protects the Lipo battery so you won't over discharge it. With this kind of battery you it's not safe to go lower than 6V or 3V per cell so it'll stop the car once the battery reaches the threshold. The parts to look out for are centre shaft pinions and differentials. They wear out very quickly so you'd better stock the spares. You can also mod it like in this video. Skip to 5:43 kzbin.info/www/bejne/mZqYZZehl8iSeMU

[@MechanicalMadness]

@@BeaversHobby So does the car have low voltage cut off? also one more thing: are ball differentials worth it?

[@jimz1024]

How long does a drivetrain take to "run in" ? @ 9:30 I can only use the last 25% of my Throttle trim on a 284131 its insane sticky (using 2 axles)

[@BeaversHobby]

It's different from car to car so after you fix the differentials and gearbox the run-in can take from 15 minutes to however long it needs.

[@jimz1024]

@@BeaversHobby Thank you for your swift response about the times! I hope this still fixes the stickiness with 2 axles... I have ball diff on order for the front.. Thanks again informative as always!

[@BeaversHobby]

@@jimz1024 My pleasure. Best of luck fixing it!

[@BenFreedmanRacing]

Ok this video is sick, thank you!

[@zeldajunkielol2]

Hi Beaver! Is this guide for fixing the drivetrain similar for the K969? I know you've mentioned that the k969 has a locked differential.

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, it's the same on K969 too. Everything is the same except the diff. It doesn't have bevel gears or spider gears inside so you don't have to fix that. Just check the diffs' thickness and it's done.

[@zeldajunkielol2]

@@BeaversHobby Thanks!

[@BeaversHobby]

@@zeldajunkielol2 My pleasure.

[@gmodesike]

Your videos are perfect.

[@loga_912]

My 144001 having a prob recently. My esc was burned. I replaced it and didnt play it for 1 month as i was waiting for the esc to arrive. But i feel the car is not like how it use to be, the car sound has been very low. Before it sounds alittle loud but now its not. Second the car is not smooth idk it is bcs of drivetrain or smtg. I suspect this could be bcs of the metal diff cover case i upgraded. Th size is alittle different than the original plastic one. So the rear motor mount screws go alittle front

[@loga_912]

And i think i should replace the motor too. Any idea

[@BeaversHobby]

@@loga_912 The stock motor is pretty big so you can change the motor mount to the one for 144010 and use any 2845 brushless motor. It'll be less heavy to one side.

[@yuriyvolkov2391]

Thank you for the great video! Could you please make something clear. If I will purchase two same K989 or one K989 and one K969, will they have control conflict while playing at the same place?

[@BeaversHobby]

No, they won't interfere with each other as long as you start and bind them one at a time.

[@bakedbeings]

Fantastic tips! Although for costs I did notice you had 2 or 3 kinds of grease and lube, but I imagine a lot of people in the hobby have those already?

[@BeaversHobby]

I had them from when I was playing Tamiya Mini 4WD so I guess they are common. Anyway, as long as the grease you use is compatible with plastic then it'll be alright. Nowadays you can find PTFE grease from Arduino robot shops or STEM shops pretty easily.

[@samuraiskill7062]

Crazy to think these little cars are 70 bucks now but well worth it!

[@mashedpotatoes5323]

Just bought a 131 for $37 shipped.

[@corybraden9177]

I cannot get the bearing to come off of the differential. Also, cannot get the intergear to come out of the interview I just recently purchased.

[@alessandrosebastiano8331]

Great video. Can you do your recommendation on upgrade for Rc 1/28 racing indoor timber floor. Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

Replace the tyres with foam tyres. That's the main thing you can do to improve it immensely. There are XPower and GQ that come with wheels and the tyres glued to them. Otherwise you can use Tamiya Mini 4WD tyres.

[@alessandrosebastiano8331]

Thankyou. Do you have part numbers and links where I can buy tyres and rims. I want to buy wide rims on rear and narrow rim on front. I have bought a set of fire laps tyres you use in your video.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@alessandrosebastiano8331 Firelap was OK if your floor is clean or regularly clean the tyres while running. If you want to run it without worrying about the floor cleanliness then foam tyres will help a lot. The part numbers are X-power ST-AWD-F-S-1 for the front. X-power ST-AWD-R-VS-0 for the back. Terminology explained: ST-AWD means wheels with glued tyres for AWD. F/R = front (narrow) or rear (wide) S = soft, VS = very soft. We usually run front with lower grip so it won't roll over in the corners, 0,1,2,3 at the end indicates offset. Personally I run front 1mm offset and rear 0mm offset because the centre line will be pretty close and these work well with my body.

[@alessandrosebastiano8331]

@@BeaversHobby Thankyou.Can you do a videos on wltoys 1/28 k969 car with all upgrades for indoor timber floor racing? Greatly Appreciate.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@alessandrosebastiano8331 Basically it's just the touring upgrade (this series) up to part 4 or 5 if you wish to upgrade the electronics and with the tyres I told you before.

[@Bogues_88]

if u file down the edge of diff where the bearing goes that causes the bearing to be jamed against the diff .. it has that tiny raised part for a reason .. to bind the center of the bearing but when you file it down now bearing can not run properly .. what you really need is some shim on other side to try push that side a tiny bit further out .. Im guessing the plastic will just wear down after a couple of runs and wear out .. I had same issues with my 284131 .. i fixed front diff perfect back nothing can do to fix the rear one .. it will not mesh at all .. I am ordering a metal ball diff and another plastic one and see whats better ..

[@BeaversHobby]

I showed how to do the outer side of the diff where there is an imperfection on the gear part and that bend backward causing the diff to rub against the gearbox. Do not file the edge for bearing. If you accidentally file the whole thing down then yes, you'll need to shim that back so the bearing won't jam up.

[@esmokebaby]

I have 969 i tryed this but since it is a locked diff I just did the casing outside of it I got it looser than what it was didn't want to send too much off as it seemed to be getting lower but the car still doesn't roll on its own now I skipped the part where you sanded down the inside of the diff since it is locked I figured it wouldn't matter unless I need to sand down the spacer in the center of the deck

[@BeaversHobby]

Lock diff is easier to do because there's no gear inside. However check the spacer in the centre if you want, just to see that it doesn't have excess plastic and push the diff gear out. Also check the gearbox wall on the top, there might be some rubbing. Sand down all bearing slots so they have a bit of wiggle room, not too much but just enough to not binding.

[@rbmwiv]

What is the lube that you use the thin oil and the thick grease. Thanks great video series I just got one as a gift and I wanna improve mine. Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

Oil is a bicycle chain oil. Grease is a plastic grease. You can use ceremic grease from Tamiya or PTFE from a small robot shop.

[@rbmwiv]

Beaver's Hobby thanks for getting back so quickly. This little car has potential for sure. All your videos are great I’ve watched the whole series.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@rbmwiv My pleasure. Good luck with the project.

[@grenetghost]

I've just received my wltoys 284131, which is my first R/C car. I've noticed some stickiness too, and your video will certainly be quite useful to fix this problem. Would lithium grease be okay for the differential, or should I buy silicone grease? Thanks for the answers!

[@BeaversHobby]

Lithium grease is also good.

[@antsarumae4659]

My suspension arms were really sticky so i filed them down from the sides and filed the bolt holes a little bit too. Now it has some wiggle in it but the suspension works smoothly. Should i be concerned about the wiggle?

[@BeaversHobby]

A bit of wiggle is fine as long as it doesn't come off. If you don't have any wiggle at all it won't move smoothly.

[@jenka22]

Hi!)) you showed how to fix the steering center on the transmitter wltoys.. i can't find this video. Can you help?

[@BeaversHobby]

I think it's about the taking the horn in, re-position it and screw it back. I don't think I made a video specific for that though but it's pretty basic. Take the servo out, unscrew the horn, power on the car + servo then put the horn back in straight.

[@papotv85]

Bought new steel driveshaft and gears but is very wobbly. Is there one better then the other or just be lucky and receive a straight one?

[@BeaversHobby]

Unfortunately it seems like you got a bad one. Yes, it's out of luck and you'll have to replace that hopefully you get a straight one this time.

[@ema_9115]

thanks for your videos always very useful and well done. So it is not possible to use a combination of gears with 15T pinion and 29T spur which is what I would like to use for drift? thank you

[@BeaversHobby]

It is possible. You just need to mod the motor case to set the gear mesh right. Here's how you do it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mILMg2CZm6ehrNk .

[@ema_9115]

Ok perfect, thank you very much!

[@flappybird_fpv8370]

Back diff in my car (284131) was so bad it the wheels would not turn opposite ways at all. Like having locked diffs 🤦‍♂️front almost as bad

[@BeaversHobby]

That's why we either have to fix the diffs or replace them.

[@fab8025]

Hi! May I ask you where did you buy the fat you use at 8:43? Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

It's Tamiya Ceramic grease. It is made for plastic gear. You can also use any PTFE grease as well. I recently moved to PTFE because it's easier to find and much cheaper.

[@fab8025]

@@BeaversHobby OK thank you very much! I saw that in the stage 4 video, in the differential you put other types of blue and yellow grease, what is the difference between the PTFE grease and the other blue and yellow?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@fab8025 The blue and yellow grease are gear differential grease. As the name suggests they are mainly for adding tension in a gear differential. They have more viscosity (stickier) and add dampening effect to the shocks.

[@fab8025]

@@BeaversHobby I understand, instead the tool you use at minute 5:23 to separate the plastic pieces, where can I buy it?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@fab8025 It's ball link pliers. It is actually for 4mm head and bigger (WLtoys is 3.5mm) but it'll work. bit.ly/2lPPPm9

[@kellymcquaid6399]

Another question. My WLtoys 989 is running great. Do you recommend locking the diff for better drifting. Or at least more controlled drifting?

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, locking diff makes it more consistent and easier to drift. Try locking the rear first and if it's still hard to control then lock both front and rear diff.

[@ueiro84]

As you apply grease on the gears and oil on the CVD joint, will dust stick on it?

[@BeaversHobby]

The gear will be alright because the gearbox is closed so you'll only get the debris from worn out gears. As for the CVD, yes, it'll pick up some dust so it'll need regular maintenance. Just swab it with cotton buds after some runs and it'll be alright.

[@japostolakis]

Very much appreciate your videos. What do you use for grease on all your parts? Thank you

[@BeaversHobby]

I use Tamiya ceramic grease. You can use any white grease for plastic too.

[@japostolakis]

@@BeaversHobby perfect thank you!

[@BeaversHobby]

@@japostolakis My pleasure.

[@fjng1]

Hi Beaver, could you please tell us what kind of timing system are you using and which transponder fits in this car?

[@BeaversHobby]

It's a simple system with IR obstacle avoidance and Arduino. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hp_Ngpx7fcton9k You can substitute the IR with TOF and it'll work better without anything to block sunlight.

[@TakeTheHold]

Hello beavers, I accidentally trimmed arms too and back wheels of my card shaking front and back now, do you think is that affect my drive too much or should I change them?

[@BeaversHobby]

You can sort of fix that by using rubber band to hold the arms to one side either front or back so they won't wobble forward and backward. If they wobble beyond fixing then you'll have to replace the arms.

[@TakeTheHold]

@@BeaversHobby appreciated

[@narrowempress1625]

Can you use a professional balance charger with this battery? Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, you can. And it's what I recommend too. The battery is 2S lipo 400mAh so you only need to select a proper setup for that.

[@narrowempress1625]

Beaver's Hobby Do you plug the red jst into the main supply and the 3 pin plug into the balance plug on the charger?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@narrowempress1625 Yes, exactly. If your charger doesn't have red JST on the main you'll need an adapter. It should come with the charger though, my iMax B6 did anyway.

[@narrowempress1625]

Beaver's Hobby thanks and I do have a jst rcy adapter that came with my imax b6 v2. In fact, I have 3 in total. And do I set the a ampage to 2.5a and have it on Lipo auto charge just to be sure? And does yours automatically cut off when the charging is done? And for the headlight kit do I get a jst rcy male plug to connect it to the battery? Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

@@narrowempress1625 Manually set the cell to 2S or and A to 0.4 or 400mAh. Charging at 1C is the safest way to do. It'll stop charging automatically when the battery is full and if you haven't change the alarm setting it'll beep pretty loudly too. And yes, you can do the light kit using RCY plug because the balance plug is occupied by the ESC.

[@shawndoucet4751]

Where could one get all the parts for this wltoy if one was to break something .. like any gears .. anyway to buy a specific piece m

[@tomwright943]

Another awesome video from yourself 😊 thank you Beaver's hobby 👍 you know where you grind out material from the upper bulkhead on the gear boxes....... did you have to do the same on the brilliant c.s. wltoys that you built?

[@BeaversHobby]

There's a sign of rubbing on the gear box, you'll need to grind there. I also did this to my older car too. If you've ran it for so long it might have worn away already though.

[@tomwright943]

Ok thank you 😊

[@hozaayE]

Can someone help me out here. i bought a k969, my son was playing w it and now it makes a constant beep sound and slowly goes in reverse when i’m not pushing anything on the transmitter

[@BeaversHobby]

Look at the buttons on the face of the transmitter and you'll see "TH TRIM" buttons, the bottom 2. Press the 2nd one from the button to trim it to forward until you hear long beep. This happens because the throttle trim is not at 0.

[@hozaayE]

@@BeaversHobby Thanks, you’re the man!! i’ll try this out when i get home

[@doublebopcann1654]

Hi Beaver, do you know how to take off the rear differential of the k989? Theres 2 metal post type things that are stopping me from oping the diff, and I do not know how to remove them.

[@sontoshi25]

Hey beaves, what do you do when the wheel bearings keep popping out? It's annoying for me because mine keeps popping out. Thanks man

[@BeaversHobby]

The wheel bearings are supposed to be sandwiched between the wheel and the shaft. I'm not sure how can they pop out but if the wheels don't sit well or fit well on the shaft the bearings can slide out. Is this the problem you are facing? If after you fully tighten the wheel and you can still move it in and out then you will need some spacers to fill the gap.

[@sontoshi25]

@@BeaversHobby thanks so much. You're right, the problem was that I used new standard k989 wheels for my 284161. Didn't notice the cvd shafts were longer lol my bad. Do you think the longer cvd shafts (27mm) work for stock diffs + k989 wheels?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@sontoshi25 Unfortunately the new diff has shallower drive cups so longer shafts won't fit. But don't worry there are ways to fix this. 1. Sand the drive cup slots down to fit longer shafts. 2. Swap the outer shaft with the 27mm. You can pull the rubber out, follow with the pin and install the old shaft (wheel connector) part to the old dog bone (diff connector). So you'll have the spare longer dog bone in case you want to upgrade the diff later. Or 3. Replace the gear box with old version and use Mini-Z diff.

[@Immortal_Her0]

Help, i filed the differentials and made them smooth but now the car doesn't move when it's on the ground. but the wheels move if the car is not touching the ground. did i do something wrong?

[@BeaversHobby]

The differentials probably got filed down too much at this point. If it runs when not on the ground then I assume the crown gear has contact with the centre shaft pinions. Maybe the bevel gears inside are loose and won't send power to the wheels. Try and adjusting that and see if you can get it working. If not I'm afraid you'll have to lock the diffs or replace them.

[@imp187]

Love your videos :) What's that tool called to pop the ballings?

[@trevorc6793]

250 BALL LINK PLIERS

[@MicroScaleGarage]

epic video

[@deanrobinson5100]

Would you recommend using the metal suspension components on these ? Thanks

[@BeaversHobby]

Only few parts like knuckle and shock tower are good. All the rest will mess up your suspension geometry and ride height. And even using only knuckles you'll have to fix to get it working at full potential. Here's how you fix it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/maCpeYOHnJl1h9U

[@Bogues_88]

I think the cause of the diff problems is factory over tighten the screws which spread the shaft wider .. I think one my diff they over tighten so much there is no way to fix it .. tried for hours the diff will not mesh or go together well .. ordering a new one or 2 ..

[@Tiickel]

U really helped me out. Especially because I haven’t even got it yet. By the way, are the electronics running cooler? That’s something very important!

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, the motor runs cooler after fixing the drivetrain.

[@Tiickel]

@@BeaversHobby Thanks for the fast comment! Does this sticky drivetrain come on all cars?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Tiickel Yes, as far as I know every WLtoys 1/28 (K989, K969, 284131, etc. whatever the number is, they are all the same chassis) has sticky drivetrain out of the box.

[@Tiickel]

@@BeaversHobby thanks for all the help! I’m going to get one for my birthday. I can buy it after two days!

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Tiickel My pleasure. Best of luck and have fun!

[@AntonsMindstorms]

What oil and what grease are you using? I don't have that, so it isn't really free...

[@BeaversHobby]

Oil that I clean bearing is WD40. I use Contact Cleaner with oil (orange can) to lube. Then the grease is just standard ceramic grease for plastic. You can also use ceramic grease from Tamiya.

[@stiletto9]

heyyy i al having a problem with my k989. when i hold the throttle down it just keeps cutting out like ticking. a problem with esc?

[@BeaversHobby]

Sticky drivetrain/gear mesh can make it cut off because of excessive load. If the battery isn't charged or faulty the voltage will drop and cause the ESC to cut out. If those are good then it's either the ESC or the motor itself.

[@stiletto9]

@@BeaversHobby so basically i have 2 k989s one main for drifting and one for parts. u put the esc of the obe for parts to the main one. it seems to work now. do you think this should solve the problem?

[@StoryLrt]

Thankyou informasi nya...

[@rlevene]

Hey, please can you tell me will this stop the motor getting so hot it burns through the battery wire? I have the 284131

[@BeaversHobby]

It should. By freeing up the drivetrain it will take a lot of stress out of the motor.

[@rlevene]

@@BeaversHobby thanks for your reply, I’ll give it a go

[@BeaversHobby]

@@rlevene My pleasure. Best of luck with the fix!

[@esmokebaby]

Ok i did everything i can i can get it to move with 1 trim when the wheels are nog on but as soon as i get shafs and wheels on it takes more trim i feel like maby the mesh at the diff is still too tight now what was it that i need to file down Anto locked diff to adjust the mesh

[@esmokebaby]

Never mind reviewed the video and found my answer

[@loga_912]

Hey, my car was running smoothly, diffs and all gears are good. But today after playing it for 2 times in day, (2 battery packs time) , the small pinion gear at the front shaved off. My car was rwd for moment and when i checked the pinion was shaved and not usable anymore. Then i putted the rear pinion in the front, and i used the longer pinion that come with the car in package for rear and extended wheelbase. I played it two times and now another pinion in the front shaved too! What can i do :(

[@BeaversHobby]

The gear is quite low quality so you might as well change or upgrade it to metal.

[@loga_912]

@@BeaversHobby Alright, and one more thing, my motor pinion is metal. So can i change the pinion gears for front and rear? And can i change the diff in metal too? Every gears metal

[@BeaversHobby]

@@loga_912 Yes, you can. It's better that way too.

[@loga_912]

@@BeaversHobby Thank you, but i couldn't find the small pinion for front and rear. Do you have any link for it or do you know the name of the pinion gear to search maybe ?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@loga_912 Here bit.ly/3w7XChB

[@andrewpeterson8597]

Thanks for all the great videos! I would love to support you through your affiliate link, but the link to the touring K989 is broken. Any chance you can update that?

[@BeaversHobby]

Thank you for your support and for the heads up. I have updated the link. Touring/Rally Car, K989: bit.ly/2Vr4fWQ Drift car, K969: bit.ly/2znqnbb

[@toto1981]

Awesome video. What kind of lap timing do you use and where can I buy it. I want a build a track with some cars and I need a lap timing kit. Is this kit works with more cars? And is it have some live output for pc-s?

[@BeaversHobby]

I build it out or Arduino and infrared range sensor. Unfortunately it only works with one car because it resets the clock and print the time every time something goes pass the sensor. If you want a proper lap timer look at robotronics and EZlap

[@Shumiotoko]

Just opened my diff and the bevel gears are a yellowish clear plastic instead of the black like in your video. Not sure if this is an upgrade in plastic

[@BeaversHobby]

The material is random . Some say the yellow/white last longer but it differs from person to person. Hopefully yours last longer than mine.

[@Shumiotoko]

@@BeaversHobby what lube do you use for the swing shafts?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Shumiotoko Bicycle chain oil

[@reekooism]

Hi Beaver ! On mine k989, at low speed it turns right and left correctly, but while accelerating, it turns right but not left... it's strange, do you have an idea? Thanks a lot

[@ryudroidable]

Hi! Got a question. Does your k989 experience dog bone problem?

[@BeaversHobby]

No, but mine is an older version so I don't know if there's any change to the new one. As long as they are metal they should be alright.

[@BobCorey]

My servo upper hole is bigger and screw comes off, way around guys...?

[@BeaversHobby]

There are 2 ways of doing this. 1. If you have 3.5mm ball head with M2 screw like the one from Mini-Z or Atomic then use that. 2. Fill the hole with super glue and baking power or plastic filing.

[@Nikoslido]

My front wheel is vibrating and I noticed that it must be a damaged ball bearing. I think the size is 3*7*2 . Will a 3*7*3 fit?

[@BeaversHobby]

It will work but you can't fully tighten the wheel. You can only use it on 1 side (there are 2 in each knuckle) and pushing the wheel out 1mm is already bad so much so that the wheel might come off because there's not enough thread on the screw to grip the nut. Try and find 3x7x2mm, there should be some on ebay.

[@Nikoslido]

@@BeaversHobby thank you very much

[@BeaversHobby]

@@Nikoslido My pleasure.

[@aliffaslam7289]

Can I ask, I have seen some other video about this Brand, they say the stock remote cannot use rechargeble battery such as Eneloop, just use Alkaline non rechargeble only.. Is it true??

[@BeaversHobby]

No, its not. I use Eneloop and Ikea Ladda in all my radios and they work fine.

[@aliffaslam7289]

@@BeaversHobby ouh ok tq sir, because it confusing me some other viewers said it cant be turn on if using rechargable battery on stock WLTOYS remote, tq sir

[@BeaversHobby]

@@aliffaslam7289 Strange indeed. Just make sure they are fully charged before putting them in and the remote will work.

[@danpearce4558]

Hi Beaver, is it possible to have a chat with you sometime and grab some advice and knowledge on a model please

[@BeaversHobby]

Yes, you can send me messages on facebook at facebook.com/beavershobby/ .

[@JRose342]

Hey, could I use the charger from an A959-b with this smaller battery?

[@adriancjones]

Is there a way to fix the rear wheel stabilizer? My has a lot of play, so the wheels do not stay true and can move a few degrees.

[@BeaversHobby]

Some people changed the knuckles to long one (the front knuckles), turn the stabilizer side side to the back and mount the toe bar like Mini-Q Q7. Some do the Mini-Z AWD DWS trick with more stabilizer bars connecting to the chassis.

[@adriancjones]

Beaver's Hobby I was looking at the aluminum upgrade kit, but I’ve tried some before and it looks great but is not a performance upgrade.

[@BeaversHobby]

@@adriancjones Aluminium upgrade doesn't really fix this car. The hubs make the car stronger but that's about it.

[@ogrope1]

Hi there friend, just wondering if there is a way to bind the k989 with the radio that comes with the 144001 I just received?

[@BeaversHobby]

You can try this. Turn the car on, then turn the transmitter on and move the steering around. If they don't bind then it means the transmitter is not compatible with the car. Because the 144001 has changed something so that transmitter won't bind with other WLtoys cars.

[@ogrope1]

@@BeaversHobby thank you sir!🙏

[@BeaversHobby]

@@ogrope1 My pleasure.

[@rickflamez5630]

Hi, what is the wltoys wheel offset out of the box? I was wondering what it is but I don't see it in the manual.

[@BeaversHobby]

Stock wheel offset is 1.5mm offset.

[@rickflamez5630]

Thanks 😎

[@rickflamez5630]

@@BeaversHobby Also, Did you carefully see the misspell word at the front cover of the manual where it said "MODLE" which is suppose to say "MODEL"?

[@BeaversHobby]

@@rickflamez5630 Wow! I didn't see that. Hahaha.

[@nixxin_prime]

Μπράβο, πολύ καλός.