Woodworker's Guide to Titebond Glue

[@woodwhisperer]

Here's a link to the spreadsheet I made up for quick reference: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/128UnQ0Wt_Fx2icOg2SlUkXEn2G0nOJ_QD7MCnJCLgWM/edit?usp=sharing

[@davelarson8438]

Titebond also has "Titebond Melomine".

[@tobyezra5277]

you probably dont care but does someone know a trick to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me

[@mariooliver901]

@Toby Ezra Instablaster =)

[@tobyezra5277]

@Mario Oliver thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@tobyezra5277]

@Mario Oliver it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much, you really help me out :D

[@sureshot311]

Why did I just watch a 20 minute video on glue? Why did I enjoy it greatly? These are some of life's many unanswered questions. But I thank you for making it. I look forward to the next.

[@paulhargreaves1497]

Could be worse.......a video on paint drying!

[@JBelcourt84]

@@paulhargreaves1497 don’t threaten me with a good time

[@mchristopher]

Mark, incredibly comprehensive video (as usual). Well worth the entire 18+ mins and to keep watching beyond the spoiler alert. Thank you. plus 1 on Titebond III for me.

[@meatwhisperer]

This is exactly the answer I was looking for on Friday Live a couple weeks ago. That chart is perfect! Thanks for the in depth look into glues! Excellent video!!!

[@BronwenM]

Wow I can't tell you how happy I am that you made this video. I've been wondering for a while now what the differences are in all of these. Thank you so much for the chart too. I am keeping it!

[@aaroncashion7570]

After a decade plus of TWW, I thought I knew everything about glue. Thanks for the continued education!

[@johngrooters6522]

Thanks for this video! I like to add two products I am using a lot (no, I am not the manufacturer ;)): Bison (or Griffon, its the same) wood max and wood max express (in Dutch "hout max"). Great when there is some sort of a gap and perfect for constructive jobs. Once you used this type of glue, you never go back to polyurethane glue. Extremely strong and no airbubbles like the pu (bad for strength) You might want to check/test this out. Keep up the good work, like your video's. John, the Netherlands.

[@ChapmanWW]

I'm just getting into woodworking, so I'm going to adhere to your advice

[@wildbill23c]

Just stick to it ;).

[@bobsacamano4]

How does this only have 6 likes

[@nickcook2775]

I suppose it just didn’t cure properly

[@stevebest216]

Build a door, then show yourself out

[@alanmydland5210]

Can't go wrong with just advice and you'll also build some depth of skills as time goes on, good luck

[@codyf3249]

Thank you for this! Incredibly helpful for a new woodworker.

[@TreeOfLifeWoodworking]

Such a great resource. Dispelled some common misconceptions I frequently see. People assume for a cutting board it has to be 3 for example. Or people just use 3 for everything. I'm on a tight budget so I save money wherever I can without sacrificing the integrity of the piece. If I can avoid the more expensive TB3... I definitely will. Dying the color was new to me though. Love that tip

[@wildbill23c]

Unless whatever you are working on is going to sit outside in the rain/snow the Titebond 1 will work just fine...maybe Titebond 2 if you would be eating off whatever you are making but TB3 is really only needed if your project will spend its whole life outside in the weather...and at that point you may want to switch to the Titebond Silicone LOL.

[@craigmonteforte1478]

Excellent summary Mark , thanks for the SpreadSheet too i know you are a Tite bond Sponsored guy now but one thing i wanted to add about them Is i used their products professionally for over 20 years and they were always very helpful as well as standing behind their products so much that Tite Bond products were the only Wood Glues we used With the only exception of a few other specialty products that other companies produced and Tite bond did not at that time

[@TheHerbsterooney]

Great intro and insight into the Titebond glue collection. You have provided me with the best all rounder information i needed desperately. You speak clearly and introduced all aspects of each type of glue with working examples at hand. I shall look no further...THANK YOU !!

[@68RedDragonz]

Great info, thanks! I used gorilla brand poly glue once to glue 1x2 wood strips to the roof of an aluminum shed in a colder(about 10-15 Celcius) environment. After it cured, it held so well I could grab just the wood strip and it held my body weight just fine. Love the poly glue for tricky situations.

[@wildbill23c]

Its great to fill in gaps too as it expands unlike other types of glue. The only issue is it can be a little more messy to clean up and don't get it on anything you don't want that stuff stuck to.

[@wb_finewoodworking]

An excellent explanation of the different glues that Titebond sells. They have been my go to glue for many years. I always get great results with their products. Thanks for answering my question too. (Don Bullock)

[@MeansWoodshop]

Man I wanna get my hands on some of that dark glue! I’d have to order it as stores locally only carry original, II and III. I always used Titebond II for everything. I’ve definitely noticed temperature has a lot to do with dry time. In the Texas summer, I can finish projects very quickly, glue ups are almost totally dry in 30 minutes or less, in the winter, I’ve had even small glue ups take 4 hours or more to dry up enough to keep working.

[@christopherfeld6371]

I'm a big fan of the polyurethane glue, it's become my go-to glue. I don't see the foaming squeeze out as a disadvantage; it's actually one of the reasons I like it. I just take my five-in-one to the foam, then use a card scraper to remove whatever's left.

[@alanmydland5210]

Urethane seems to me me to have a low shelf life of all

[@BKRcustommotorbikes]

This Is great guide. For someone that always just uses pva glue I now understand why people use different types

[@acast152]

Great video!! Very good explanation among the different types of glue!! 🙌

[@joshuaturner9116]

Also another helpful tip about hide glue is it will cure and adhere to itself where as pva's not so much. This is a great advantage to anybody like myself who is also a hobby luthier.

[@markharris5771]

I've started using home made hide glue for most of my interior projects, it’s got a pretty good history and it’s undoable. After that it’s using a Titebond III, epoxy or CA glue. However, I’m still very much a learner and I'll probably give a different answer next week but it is good fun making your own glue.

[@jonhughes1370]

Thanks for the tips! I can attest to the Titebond III dark glue line in maple. I tried Titebond Translucent in the same situation and it was invisible. Great stuff...

[@andrewschannel3635]

You didn’t mention Titebond Melmine, it’s really good for sticking non pours surfaces to wood without foaming.

[@todds4101]

Great video!!! We always have a lot of glue questions at Woodcraft and this will be a great video to point them towards (for those who need a little extra info).

[@jstillmanwoodworking]

Excellent Video and thank you for taking the time to put it together

[@mokenistic]

Thanks a lot men, I had to subscribe just watching for a minute and my first time on your youtube channel. Very elaborate explanation

[@2000SkyView]

I have had glue on the self over ten years and still works great! 😁😁👍👍

[@TheBiggerrich]

What a fantastic video, I was glued to my screen!

[@emmetworkshop2829]

Really useful thank you, with good read across for non-Titebond products too.

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

With Polyurethane glue it helps to tape off any areas you want to keep it away from, and use mineral spirits and a lint free cloth to wipe off any excess (not soaking wet), and repeat until it starts solidifying and less comes out of the joint; Paper towels and the like don't work good at all here, so use an old t-shirt or other cloth. I never use Polyurethane on very porous woods unless I have a good amount to sand down after gluing, because you just can't get it out of the pores as well, even when wet as other glues, and it will show. I wrote this before he got to the cleanup section where he mentioned the mineral spirits.

[@laws1524]

I notice redwood reacts with Titebond III. The purple stains seem to penetrate the wood fibers. Thanks for the reminder about polyurethane being waterproof. I will try that next time I’m making an outdoor piece from redwood.

[@manifestgtr]

I’ve been on titebond 50 for about 5 years now...that stuff holds like an absolute monster and it’s got a nice working time Original titebond for joints that aren’t “load bearing”. Titebond 50 for all the critical stuff. Your joints will survive the nuclear apocalypse. Stuff will be flying around everywhere, sure....but the wood will have broken before the glue joint 👍

[@yeahright2022]

"They make glue" LOL, I about lost it.

[@woodwhisperer]

Just in case anyone didn't know. :)

[@shofarsogood7504]

The Wood Whisperer hehe. And " the glue is kinda messy, it gets kinda sticky". Wise advice sir.

[@dukeengine1339]

Thank you for this interesting video. I live in Italy, here we mostly use vinilic glue, it's called Vinavil, and the price is 5€ for 1kg. I am using titebond III and I think I'll never get back to vinilic! The only problem? Here one bottle costs 30€!!!

[@TheAcousticWarfare]

Excellent! That cleared up a bunch of questions for me. Thanks!

[@StamosTee]

Great video Marc. Tons of useful information! Thanks for sharing 👍

[@paulhargreaves1497]

Excellent video. Excellent shirt!

[@makenchips]

you should look up the sds on your denatured alcohol to see what else is in it. Use acetone it is a purer chemical. But always do it in a well ventilated area.

[@clayzer11]

Nice job Mark. Very thorough.

[@kauerpc]

You are a great teacher. Thanks.

[@makenchips]

What do you mean by indirect food contact (time 1:38)? Cutting board all have exposed joints that have been glued!

[@Grandpa.Dan8881]

You did not cover gluing with a gap. I have a 1949 guitar, I need to reattach the neck to. I can see there is quite a gap in some of the area, because of how thick the old glue was and it did not cover the whole area of the joint. Based on your video, I suspect your liquid hide glue would be best??? Please advise... Thanks...

[@tetianarubashko837]

Hi Mark, I wonder which of these glues would you recommend for filling up a deep crack so that the glue to look natural after a clear coating? I just want to stabilize the crack and keep the wood look naturally 🙏🏻 thanks!

[@nathanaelmoriarty4960]

I love the video. I was just wondering if you would advise buying a gallon of glue at a time or just a sixteen oz bottleat a time.

[@iantol8504]

Great explanation👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@paskellsr]

Great video. Thanks so much. Question to anyone listening. I live in Phoenix. Summers are a struggle. Therefore Titebond 3 used "quickly, but don't hurry", (stolen from the great John Wooden) my question is, winters here are great for working during the day. Nights get down to the high 30's to low 40's for the majority of time. If I do a glue up during the day and it sets for a few hours with warmer temperatures, will leaving it set overnight , below47 deg. affect the set up? Thanks so much. Regards to all, Jim

[@dhimanghosh9435]

The video is very enlightening . Do you think this can be used to make micarta

[@LordPadriac]

Don't forget the biggest piece of advice to save money. If you start to do cutting boards, table tops, laminating plywood or other large glue ups regularly buy a gluebot and buy your glue by the gallon or 2 1/2 gallon size. It's more cash up front but it's so much cheaper than hitting up the BORG for half a dozen bottles once or twice a month. Edit: I've been team Titebond III all the way for years now. It's food safe, water proof, super strong and has more than enough working time for most projects.

[@tomgrantham9992]

Great explanation. Thank you for sharing your experience.

[@kyoopihd]

What would you say about using sawdust as a cleanup method? I've seen some woodworkers grab a small handful of dust and scrub at the joint to get the squeeze out cleaned up. Great video!

[@vstm3950]

Immensly helpful for the beginner

[@robertphillips3992]

Tons of good solid information, thank you

[@SculptyWorks]

Excellent video! Very informative! 👍

[@luthiferbuilds]

i use 3 for guitar building! i love it

[@MnktoDave]

This was great! Lots of good info here, thank you.

[@sfrskz]

where i live pu glue is cheap but titebond iii is like 22 dollars. needed titebond for cutting boards. i used d3 glue but it was not waterproof.

[@cmartesanodemadera2022]

Genial, me queda muchísimo mas claro el tema de las diferencias entre los pegantes. De verdad muchas gracias.

[@j.m.castilla7150]

Great thanks for your videos A greeting from Spain

[@dwainsmith2106]

Great video. Super good information

[@markpalmer3071]

Thanks, that was more interesting than I thought it was going to be... ;)

[@lawdog516]

Very informative video !! Thank you for making this video

[@turbobooster2000]

Mayor Goldie Wilson. I like the sound of that!

[@PKAdventures]

thanks! now i know to use Titebond3 to build my paper mache boat

[@dbacks2023-]

Please help I can't figure out how to open the bottle

[@ShyGuyInKilt]

Excellent video

[@pterafirma]

A major issue with gluing wood, that's conspicuously absent from this video, is *grain* *direction.* There are situations where you have to join an end-grain surface, such as picture frame corners, and PVA glue doesn't form much of a bond. On a really expensive ornamental frame, nailing from the outside isn't an option, and filled holes would never be acceptable. The glue joint in this case needs to be better than just a secondary measure. CA would give a strong tight joint, but it lacks the necessary working time for aligning and strap-clamping 4 corners of a large frame. PU would give a strong joint and have sufficient working time, but even with a good clamp I'm concerned about it pushing the joint open. With these trade-offs in mind, what's a better product for joining end-grain, when (1) strength, (2) tight precision, _and_ (3) a few minutes of working time are all required?

[@Shaka_Vibe]

Very informative and helpful!

[@zijie-he]

I always choose titebond 2, I do not work on boats. Large bottle of titebond 2 is pretty inexpensive, so using titebond original is not worth the risk of rain.

[@marekmarek7914]

Hi, which glue is best for endgrain?

[@rmarquar1]

Very good video Mark.. Thanks..

[@glengrossnickle4985]

Do you know of a glue that is food grade. My brother has a wood mug that is cracking. It is very special to him. I would like to fix it for him. It needs to have strength and able to be used on the inside. Have any ideas. Thanks

[@cn6762]

titebond 2 and 3 both rated for indirect food contact. Titebond 3 be best since its waterproof

[@aerial_camera_video_imaging]

Thank you

[@ausfrog381]

Great video, actually helped alot

[@joyceannvanpelt3997]

Thanks. I needed this

[@Zackmex]

Very informative, thank's!

[@edancoll3250]

I've only ever used Elmer's. Am I missing out?

[@killingoldgrowthsince]

Elmers pro bond for me, it's all I use. It's as good as anything on the market. And no you are not.

[@SilviaChauvin]

Very helpful, thanks.

[@percyangilley3291]

Thank you very good presentation

[@jonh4301]

Explains alot - thanks!

[@godsmwc65]

Excellent very informative thank you.

[@VictorIvanovsky]

Thank!

[@regueroj]

great explanation tyanks

[@capnblackleg]

whats the deal with my local box stores saying there is a "glue shortage" when it comes to titebond 3?

[@specialk8168]

What do they say, specifically? I don't buy a lot of glue, but this is the first I've heard of a "shortage."

[@garciabyron218]

Love the shirt

[@bennettd2501]

i like the "chart"

[@davidmacdowell4796]

"THIS IS JUST A TIGHTBOND AD!"

[@David-fv7zg]

I would disagree with your data regarding working time and Hide GLue. I have seen several resources say 25 minutes or more. Personally, when I have a difficult glueup, hide glue is the one I reach for, I have had great success with 20 - 30 minute glue ups. The 10 minutes listed in the spreadsheet, simply is not correct, even if it comes from the manufacturer.

[@kyoopihd]

I spent the first 90 seconds of the video looking at the T-shirt.

[@billjones3071]

What glue sands the easiest ? What glue stands up to alcohols thinners or paints, you just keep repeating yourself in this test

[@lobolusk7]

super cool thanks! I always use Titebond 3 but by accident though when i was starting out i just figured "3 is more powerful than 1 or 2 I will go with that one"

[@petercollin5670]

I learned the hard way that you can't let your yellow glue freeze in an unheated shop. When it thaws, it becomes like cottage cheese.

[@NordboDK]

Titebond, yes, Elmer's glue (not the outdoor stuff) no.

[@vermili0138]

Better bust out the chisels.

[@musicbymark]

Great video as always. Here's what Titebond's Bob Benke told me a few years ago re: their cryptic EXP. date code & some other neat bits of info. My local Ace hard ware had lots of Titebond on sale, but decoding their date codes, I realized they were all 1-4 years old bottles: TITEBOND / FRANKLIN INTERNATIONAL Date code: ex A41201XX: A= American / USA-made 4= 2014 01= DEC 01 XX= BATCH# XX SHELF LIFE: Good TWO years min., but up to FOUR or more; Refrigerated will last 10 years! Titebond II as waterproof, but Titebond III can tolerate 180F and above (beyond boiling/dishwasher) Titebond III gels when bad, looks like cottage cheese; if it comes out and looks creamy, it's good; can add 5% water if it gets thick.

[@LandsharkTank]

I watched your video while waiting for glue to dry on my cabinet doors. :)

[@themightygoose1]

And then realized you used the wrong glue. 😂

[@MindToMade]

This video seemed a little... Tacky..... 😂 Couldn't help it. Great information!

[@AngieWilliamsDesigns]

This is great. I am going to have to remember this so I can go back and reference it. The spreadsheet looks super handy.

[@afisher555]

For people new to this: worth saying too that polyurethane is not gap filling, even though it foams up. The foam will fill the gap, but has no strength. If you use clamps then it works a treat.

[@JamesLee-sw6ss]

"If you're in hot and dry climate" *cries in California*

[@chrislehr07]

I dont even care how sponsored this is. Amazingly handy.

[@TheFalconJetDriver]

It sure looks like a lot of Tacky comments, many would do well to adhere to Marks advice on the subject of adhesion. 🛫

[@joeframer9642]

Great info..👍🇺🇸

[@kb6dxn]

I always bump the bottle on the bench then squeeze it and let the air suck in any glue that remains on the tip then close the top. Otherwise you can end up with glue in the gap between the lid and the spout. I do the same thing with the "super-glue" stuff to keep a good tip on the glue bottle. Guess you could say I burp the bottle. :)

[@pterafirma]

Great advice. And of course with polyurethane glue, you want to do the opposite - get all air _out_ of the tip, so as to prevent it curing.