Working with Rubber Tracks

Working with Rubber Tracks
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Disco Medusae" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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Volatile Reaction" Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
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[@redfern03]

In 1:72 I'd suggest you just put a staple through then hide with paint and weathering. Most glues don't work ( although I intend to try Gorilla Glue) and melting the ends rarely works out optimally. It might stick the two ends but you lose so much of the track that it doesn't fit around the wheels. I've wrestled with his for hours tonight and finally just stuck a small staple through each track and put an end to it ...

[@MrLeonidas0001]

Neat trick with the copper wire!

[@Badmonkey2230]

All of my kits have had terrible rubber tracks with slots for tiny rubber peices, my glue works most if the time, and some of the tracks arent long enough!

[@scalemodelmania]

yeah they can be painful at times.

[@davidbenson3931]

fuse wire or thin florist wire works well its thinner than a staple and easier ti hide. I have used thin fishing line too.

[@kevinbrum9940]

Great video

[@klimentvoroshilov2643]

thanks for the help!

[@propertyrightsmatter8156]

I have not tried this for this application but...I have used Goo brand glue where I need super stick but drying to some flexibility. In my application flexibility is required as the tracks are under battery power and "work".

[@skjorta1984]

i put su-85 tracks in hot water to make them easier to work with, did the same with panzer 2 tracks now they’re basically gone. this is tamiya i’m talking about E: it’s probably bad, but i’m new and on my second tank

[@mattluszczak8095]

One time i used revell super glue. Wouldnt rubber glue work like for a bicycle tube?

[@ET42Driver]

The kit is Dragon 7270 T-34/85 Mod.1944 Late Production

[@davidbenson3931]

lovely model. Dragon rubber tracks are good. Old Mirage Esci and Italeri are terrible and can ruin an otherwise nice model. Even Eastern express rubber tracks are better. Tamyia and Dragon are the best in my view in terms of this type of track. I prefer lenght and links or individual track links. I dont know why italeri still issue kits with terrible rubber tracks. Great tips great tutorial. Greetings from Iteland and Happy modelling its a great hobby.

[@vermontvermont9292]

Where can I get rubber T-72 tracks? Im building a kit that's been sitting since 1992, and the plastic tracks that came with it are super brittle and essentially fell apart in my hands.

[@Espingify]

Rubber tracks are a sht, i prefer metal tracks but they can cost more than the model itself... great video, for 1/144 and 1/72 rubber tracks could be ok, nice explain

[@scalemodelmania]

thanks mate. I love the metal tracks as well but as you say they can be very costly.

[@capt.skipper8469]

I agree, but not all tracks are bad, Tamiya tracks could be bad sometimes, but its fairly detailed and good.

[@montynelson5033]

really useful, thanks!

[@b.r.brown.1295]

Any tips for me, I have tracks for a t-55 but they are not long enough and they have little holes and pins but that doesn’t work because it’s too short

[@corradolaccetti1209]

Great video theese are a dragon stiren

[@scalemodelmania]

Thanks mate

[@coupergiuliano7486]

I heard that eventually rubber tracks break down is there any way to prevent this

[@jaimecarrasco8128]

Good Video mate,you are the best!

[@scalemodelmania]

+Jaime Carrasco thanks mate. Got a big head now.

[@Mi_shebeirach_Lchayalim]

I stretch one of my 1:35 Merkava tank rubber track it would not fit but I stretch littel to much is there a way I can shrink it

[@mattelmore7316]

don't put in description working w/ "RUBBER" tracks and bust out vinyl tracks.

[@consul.5557]

Matt Elmore they’re literally the same thing

[@Lonewolf6565]

@@consul.5557 No... "Rubber" is silicone. Vinyl is Polyvinyl Chloride. Fucking PVC. Model band tracks are almost always vinyl. Cured silicone doesnt remelt it turns to ash.

[@TheMoistestNugget]

which kit is that? looks really nice

[@ju87d-3stuka7]

Looks like a T 34

[@ET42Driver]

I know you comment is 2 years old, but... This kit is a Dragon 7270 T-34/85 Mod.1944 Late Production

[@StalkeraBg]

Thanks for this, i actually regret buying the lovely kit only due to them. The model kit from Italeri at 1/35 scale (Leopard 2a4) has two additional sections of 4 tracklings that arent used, and is stated in the manual. Any idea why they are even there ? They arent used anywhere at all on the model, have no holes or pins Also: am i am idiot choosing my First model in 1:35 with vinyl or no ?

[@modeltankfilms9315]

Could be extra molds? Or maybe it could be auxillary tracks

[@atnorange5491]

Actually I had the same issue the tracks weren't long enough

[@justdencla7596]

that tank is soviet T-34 and its also in realistic model

[@jrqf8689]

No shit

[@nizalmuhammad9689]

What product name for this kit?

[@ET42Driver]

Dragon 7270 T-34/85 Mod.1944 Late Production

[@conanmg8340]

Is tamiya tracks workable? (I want to buy type 10 tamiya 1/48)

[@atnorange5491]

I doubt it

[@conanmg8340]

@@atnorange5491 owh okay thx m8

[@Lonewolf6565]

No? If youre asking if they can be revolved around the drive wheels if you push the model along a surface then yes sort of. "Workable" tracks are individual links held together with pins. Tamiyas tracks are usually "band" or "link and length" type depending on the kit. Band tracks are just solid lengths of flexible vinyl you either super glue or melt together to make a loop. Link and length are long solid runs of links broken up with individual links you glue to the longer lenghts and wrap around the drive wheels while the glue is still soft. Workable tracks are usually aftermarket upgrades.

[@AinKrab]

i am working with rubber tracks for first time on some old tamiya akrika panzer ii. i tried doing what the intruction said and melted the tracks by accident HELP

[@eotorpex2694]

Bro never got help😂