Worklight Bracket Addendum

[@johnmcnamara3719]

Thanks Mark for having a go, and your nice words. Once I started to think on using polymers in my projects a whole world of opportunities opened up for me, that enable large castings to be poured in the home shop using simple molds. Industry has already recognized the advantages. If you google "Mineral casting" and search in images you will see many examples. I hope your bracket is a seed that grows.

[@Preso58]

John, I still have the epoxy granite CNC router on my wish list. I thought it would be a really cool project until I saw Dan Gelbart's solid granite lathe with air bearings kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXfVh5elhM2oZ7M Regards, Mark

[@g.tucker8682]

What a beautiful vintage light! I'm sure you're proud to have saved it. My machine has a crummy makeshift lamp on it, which I'm always going to replace "one of these days." Seeing this gives me some motivation to fix mine up right. Thanks.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

12:03 I admire how the screws are clocked! Great work as always and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and skills with us mere mortals!

[@shootgp]

Looks great! Now, do it a third way. Plug the bolt holes and wrap painters tape around it and pour liquid rubber in to form a custom gasket... 😁😁😁

[@sharkrivermachine]

The light works much better now!

[@Preso58]

Yes, it's definitely brighter! 😁 Regards, Mark

[@gwharton68]

I like your attention to detail. I thought I was the only one left that like to align screw slots. Good job.

[@Preso58]

No, there is an underground subculture that insist on properly headed screws on assemblies! 😁 Regards, Mark

[@ronwilken5219]

That's why I like hex heads. More choices and they don't camout and slip causing an unrepairable scratch in the substrate. Slotted screws are the devil's invention IMHO. Mark, I have to ask where you got your vice from. It looks to be a steel fabrication rather than the usual cast stuff that cracks as soon as any real work is done. Reason I ask is I have one, bought , must be fifty years ago, in Rhodesia. Under sanctions you couldn't import silly things like a vice so a local steel fabrication shop started making steel welded vices for the local market. Besides a few dings in the paint mines as good as the day I bought it. Yes I imported it along with our household possessions, when we moved to Canada in 1979. I've never seen another like it until I noticed yours. Thanks for the videos. The end result was probably worth it. Regards from Canada's banana belt. 🤞🇨🇦🍌🥋🇺🇦🕊️🇦🇺🐏👍

[@TgWags69]

I would have been hesitant to try that with the epoxy stick. All the ones I've tried set up really fast and don't stay soft long enough. It looks like it was getting firm for you too by the time you were tightening up the screws. I think I would make my own putty using a slower setting resin and solka floc cellulose powder or micro balloons or even talc in a pinch. You could even add a metal powder of your choice as well. This would allow you to control timing as well as thickness of the putty. You may have to incorporate a damming material like clay or duct seal to keep it from drooping while it cured, but would give you a more controllable and more optimal transfer of surface features. But hey, you got it done alright anyways. Good job on that. 👍

[@Preso58]

The original notes that John sent me called for a regular epoxy with fillers made from various metal powders and other additives. He also suggested forming a dam with tape since the setting time would be longer and possibly retarded by the fillers. I had used the "Knead It" product before and you do have to work quickly but it stays in place and I knew it could be powder coated. It was getting quite stiff by the time I got it on the machine but you can see it squeezing out around the edges as I tightened down the screws. Like everything though there is room for experimentation. I would certainly do it differently if I were to have another go but like everything I do it's a prototype! Regards, Mark

[@19672701]

Definitely appreciate your attention to detail on your equipment,inspired me to spend more time on mine. Admittedly covit the Bridgeport badge on your machine! Great work!

[@ianbertenshaw4350]

Good stuff that kneadit! Used it once to block the holes in a diff centre for a golf buggy when I converted it from gear drive to chain drive . I needed ( or should it be kneaded) something to block the holes off so I could fill the pinion gear cavity with grease, that stuff did the job and never cracked or leaked.

[@Preso58]

Yes, I think it is a bit under rated as a repair medium. It always seems like it's not going to stick but once cured it can be quite tenacious. Regards, Mark

[@christophercullen1236]

Mark if you had used the same procedure on your wooden pattern using body filler , you could cast the shape into your casting. Body filler the patternmakers best friend when making complex shapes!

[@blfstk1]

Good Show Mate...as usual. My default for the past 50+ years has been some form of epoxy. Epoxy covers a multitude of sins. My clean up would not have been anywhere as nice as yours. Another good use of OCD. I have noticed, the older I get the less OCD I have. You be just as picky as you like. You've earned it. I'm still a little jealous about the B'port.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. I am pleased to report that I used the Bridgeport yesterday to cut a deep slot with a 4mm endmill and I got all the way to the end of the job without breaking the tool. I used an R8 collet to hold the endmill and it was a revelation! On my old mill I would not have even attempted it. A lack of rigidity and poor runout on the spindle made worse by a long overhang on the ER40 collet chuck would have spelled the end of such a small tool. It's nice having nice tools. 😁 Regards, Mark

[@blfstk1]

@@Preso58 You bet having nice tools is good. I have some and truly enjoy them. I love R8 collets. Way less stick out from the spindle with end mills. That is super important on a drill/mill as that's what I have. Really thankful I have that. I have broken my share of little end mills. Not turning them fast enough and moving them too fast. Patience is a virtue I sometimes don't have.

[@pgs8597]

Excellent fix. Cheers, Peter

[@rodfrey]

I think this entire channel can be summed up by 11:51, where you back off the left screw 5 degrees so the slots line up. 😁 I love this place.

[@Preso58]

Is my OCD showing? Regards, Mark

[@garagemonkeysan]

Wow, thought it was over the top before but I guess I was wrong. Great video. Awesome solution. Looks "perfect"...if that's a real word. Mahalo for sharing! : )

[@Preso58]

Sadly, not perfect! Many viewers noticed that the sticky note was sitting in the gap between the light bracket and the ram at the end of the video. The gap is literally a paper thickness but it's way better than the ugly cork interface. Regards, Mark

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Mark, this looks a lot better, I think I’ll have to get myself some of the kneed-it stuff to keep in the cupboard for the one day I might need it, thanks for sharing a really helpful tip, I can think of a few times I could have used the already, take care mate, Cheers Matty

[@Preso58]

Thanks for that. The metal filled epoxy has allowed me to save face on quite a few occasions. It's great for filling voids on dodgy castings and once painted or powder coated no one would ever know, except now I have probably given the game away. 😬 Regards, Mark

[@swdweeb]

Even the slots in the screws align 11:57 😄😄 I wondered what the oven might do to the epoxy. Always a treat to watch

[@Preso58]

Normally the epoxy behaves really well in the oven. I think it the bubbling was due to uneven mixing or maybe I didn't wait long enough for it to cure and it was outgassing a bit. Regards, Mark

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Mark, That really was a tip tip from Mr. MacNamara... It looks excellent now... Take care Paul,,

[@BeachsideHank]

Cork was fine, would probably still serve long after you are gone; just run a black Sharpie around the edges, job done! ☺ Good enough, satisfactory, sufficient, acceptable, suitable, reasonable, agreeable, adequate, usable, all right; these words do not necessarily mean compromise in any endeavor, just a point at which nothing further of substance will be gained by additional effort. Don't let perfection be the opponent of good enough.

[@joshuaharlow4241]

In general I agree, but if this is enough to get another Presso video, it's good enough for me. 😁

[@unclebobsbees4899]

Never pass up an excuse for another video.

[@Preso58]

Believe me, the cork would have stayed on the machine if John had not sown the seeds of doubt about my original concept. At the end of the day, the upgrade didn't cost much and it only took a few hours. Plus it's an opportunity to make some lame jokes for KZbin. Regards, Mark

[@BeachsideHank]

@@Preso58 Not meant to be negative about the result, it came out quite well too.

[@jimmccorison]

I'm not sure it would have lasted. You could see the base flex in relationship to the mill when he adjusted the lamp. My guess is that eventually it would have caused one or more of the fasteners to break.

[@MrStrangegoo]

Not a stupid idea Mark, consider it a step in the evolution of articulated work lamp mounts.

[@ChatterontheWire]

Looks great. More care for the final product than I could be made to do normally, but good to know about in case I ever decide to finish something 100% instead of just that 80-90%!

[@28gwdavies]

Great tip Mark.

[@garyskowbo3564]

Hey Mark, nice addendum. A suggestion if you don’t mind? How about setting up that bracket so you can mill all the epoxy except about 12mm around the edge back to the aluminum. Might take care of the paper thin gap Currly was worrying about.😁 Thanks for sharing another great video.

[@garyskowbo3564]

Sorry CurlyG65 for the miss spelling.🧐

[@Preso58]

Gary, My initial plan was to mill out most of the back of the casting and just file the thin (sub 2mm) rim to fit but I was finding it hard to securely mount the uneven casting in the vice of the CNC mill. I had a toolpath all ready to go but chickened out at the last minute. That's the thing about doing KZbin videos. You already have several hours invested in filming and editing and if you totally screw up the part you not only have to remake the part but you have to scrap the video as well. I could just see the casting getting lifted out of the vice and getting totally chewed up so I backed out and used the cork which actually worked a treat but it looked a bit naff so it had to go! Regards, Mark

[@turningpoint6643]

Maybe a bit OCD, but I'm the same. Doing things "right" or because you want to has it's own personal satisfactions. Your dough like epoxy makes it a whole lot easier on a job like that for sure Mark. But rifle actions and barrels have been liquid epoxy "bedded" into there wooden stocks since shortly after epoxy was invented as a method of gaining a stronger, more repeatable and less warp prone seating for the parts. Extra wood is hogged out to give room for the epoxy, the barreled action is either masked off, or better a thin release agent is applied. Even car wax buffed to a high polish can work on very well finished and smooth parts. Mask off the stock to prevent any epoxy from adhering to it's exterior visible areas, grease the mounting bolts as you did, screw the parts together, once cured any excess squeeze out above the stock recess is carefully filed and sanded off flush. It can show definite accuracy gains simply because the action now seats and doesn't move small amounts during the firing recoil. On my bench rest rifle the action is permanently epoxy glued into it's carbon fiber gun stock so there's zero clearance and the action and stock become one piece.Yes this kit is expensive, but I added the link to show what gunsmiths use to do this work. www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas-professional-bedding-system-prod31915.aspx Something like that would hardly be needed for most jobs in a home shop though. For a tight but complex parts fit it might be an idea worth remembering? Finely sifted metal powders are sometimes mixed into the liquid epoxy as a way of toughening up the finished negative epoxy casting. Maybe I'm being an arm chair expert after the fact? Running a strip of black stretchy electrical tape around the rim of your casting first would have allowed filing and sanding that excess epoxy to an even line around that casting without having to refinish the powder coating.

[@Preso58]

Thanks for the background info. I am always keen to learn more about the materials we use. John McNamara sent me a very detailed procedure for mixing and curing liquid epoxy with metal fillers which he has successfully used to repair worn out lathe saddles and feed nuts on lathes and mills. I take your point about masking and not having to re powder coat but the epoxy is quite a bit darker than the silver powder coat that I used and the powder coat gun was already set up so it was a fairly easy job to recoat it. Regards, Mark

[@damienmiller]

Thanks Mark and John, this is a really useful tip for mating against odd surfaces. Where do you buy the acrylic sheet in Australia?

[@Preso58]

Damien, I think art suppliers sometimes keep it but it is also available on Amazon.com.au www.amazon.com.au/ORACAL-Oramask-Low-Tack-Stencil-Transfer/dp/B0798SR2PG/ref=asc_df_B0798SR2PG/?tag=googleshopdsk-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341774158480&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2690501465547130642&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9069021&hvtargid=pla-416896180559&psc=1

[@gillywild]

I've done a similar thing a few times but I really wish you could get that epoxy putty in a slightly squishier version. It really does not want to spread.

[@SeanBZA]

Just drop the bit you are going to use in some boiling water for 3 minutes before you start to knead it, it will soften up a lot. When forming use some water as well to lubricate the tooling, the epoxy does not mind it, and it stops it sticking to the tooling. Final finishing I often use a wet finger to get the shape right, or for straighter edges a cut off piece of stiff thick plastic from a PET bottle, like those 5l containers you find all over. Rest of the container does not go to waste, you cut it into a scoop to pick up dirt, or can cut to use as a funnel, or catch tray with convenient pouring when you remove the cap.

[@weldmachine]

Nice work, Mark. The only downside to using flat blade headed screws. Is you need to make the slots line up, LOL. Something i learnt from my old Wood Working Teacher from Tech School .( a real tradesmen ) I am sure it was the same for you also.

[@Preso58]

Getting metal thread screws to line up within a quarter revolution is never easy on metal parts since you don't get a lot of compression on the interface. It's much easier on wood! I take your point about it being old school. I too was taught to "head" the screws too. Regards, Mark

[@weldmachine]

@@Preso58 I cheat by using Socket Head or Philips Heads, LOL. You don,t see to many flat blade screws in existence anymore. I am guessing they must have been on your shelf for some time now.

[@fixitmakeit]

A bonny and a beauty , a joy to behold!

[@kenny5174]

I like the surface leveling that the putty took care of. I wounder if the two part JB weld would be easier? You might have an issue with it being too runny. Great job, keep up the great work.

[@Preso58]

My adviser John, did suggest using a two part liquid epoxy with some metal powder additives but it would be more liquid and as such would need some sort of dam or seal around the edge to contain it. The nice thing about the kneadable epoxy is the quick curing time and it is very "metal like" It drills, files and takes threads really well. Regards, Mark

[@SolidRockMachineShopInc]

looks nice! Steve

[@williamcarboni2614]

Love the job. Too bad you couldn't get the powder coating the same color of the Bridgeport that would look factory. a great job never the less. Thanks

[@FrancisoDoncona]

Didn’t know powder coat could stick to epoxy. It is a plastic but does it like 400 degrees f?

[@Preso58]

Powder coat will stick to just about anything as long as you can cure it at the correct temperature. I have powdercoated wood and cardboard and contrary to popular belief, the object to be powdercoated doesn't need to be electrically conductive. It is an electrostatic process so some plastics actually attract the powder better than metals. The metal filled epoxies seem to be fine when cured. I did notice a little bubbling of the surface because I probably didn't let the filler cure long enough. The epoxy is also a thermosetting resin rather than a thermoplastic. Thermosets are pretty much inert once cured and cannot be softened with heat once the initial set is carried out. Regards, Mark

[@bobvines00]

@@Preso58 I'd always wondered how non-conductors could be power-coated. I guess I need to look into that so I can try to get my brain around it!

[@drewrogge4798]

I was just waiting for a big hunk of paint to come peeling off the ram when you pulled the plastic off. That would be just my luck.

[@Preso58]

Drew, did you notice how slowly I was peeling that stuff up? I was totally focused on any signs of the paint lifting. I got lucky though.... this time!

[@windyhillfoundry5940]

Turned out great👌. I have never seen filler like that

[@jdmccorful]

I don't know if it still made , but look up meggastick. Two part epoxy with similar properties that hardens like metal. Drilling, tapping and filing works on it.

[@Preso58]

Clarke, I think they make it in a grey, a white and a copper filler. It behaves very much like metal and it adheres very well. It's great for filling up voids in castings! Not that I should have any voids 😁 Regards, Mark

[@DavidPlass]

What was the problem with the cork?

[@Preso58]

Nothing really. I was just overthinking/overdoing things as usual. Regards, Mark

[@610324dan]

whenever do you really need that tight fit ??

[@Preso58]

The fit doesn't have to be that close but I didn't want the bracket to be able to rock up and down even the slightest amount. The cork interface worked but it would have compressed over time and then i would need to keep tightening the screws. Regards, Mark

[@bigbob1699]

I might have made a second bracket for the right side of the machine for the that odd job that will need it .

[@Preso58]

I have a pattern for a second bracket ready to cast. It will be used to mount an arm for a DRO. It has to be a slightly different shape to the light bracket (always the way) but it will mount in exactly the same pattern of holes but on the right side of the ram. Regards, Preso

[@bigbob1699]

@@Preso58 I filled my need for a good work lamp with a magnetic base with a high intensity lamp . Good for all jobs , and machines .

[@jimmccorison]

Instead of silicone to prevent sticking, use good old fashion automotive paste wax. It works with polyester and epoxy resins, but you might want to double check with that two-part material. It's cheap, easy to use, and doesn't create the mess that silicone does. The big advantage is that silicone can cause fisheyes in some finishing materials no matter how thoroughly you clean it off.

[@Preso58]

Jim, I only used the silicone grease on the screw threads of the fasteners to make sure they didn't get stuck into the bracket casting. I have a large roll of the low tack adhesive frisket film and it's good because it is a bit easier to remove and I was a bit worried that anything with a stronger adhesive would lift the paint on the ram. As you have observed though, silicone waxes and coatings are a real pain if you have to repaint anything. Regards, Mark

[@johnnym1320]

You just had to put the sticky note under the mount, OCD torture :-D

[@thisnicklldo]

I thought the cork was fine. What was the point of filing the epoxy off the back, after you had carefully made sure it set to a perfect fit on the mill casting? Didn't that just make for a less good fit?

[@Preso58]

The surface went a bit bubbly in the oven when I powdercoated it for the second time so I just filed off the high spots of the bubbles. The overall form was still a good fit. Some people noticed that the sticky note was sitting in the gap at the end of the video but there was literally a paper thin gap and it looked way better than the cork. I suspect that the I didn't wait long enough for the epoxy to cure before I put it in the oven. It could have been a case of incomplete mixing too. Regards, Mark

[@bobvines00]

@@Preso58 Mark, I _think_ that thisnicklldo meant where you used the half-round file on the epoxy before you powder coated it? I was wondering that too.

[@fishermanyt8187]

Gotta love it when that OCD kicks in. Nice fix came out great, looks like a bought one.

[@Preso58]

I don't fish and I don't play golf so I find reasons to be in my workshop doing "stuff". It also saves me from having to go shopping with my wife. No, wait, in case she reads this, I love my wife, I just hate shopping! 😁

[@mclem4u]

Nice correction Mark. Everything is a learning process.

[@LukePettit3dArtist]

I sometimes wonder if you've forgotten you own a sand blaster!? lol Surely the even patina you get from this would make for a nicer part after powder coating?

[@Preso58]

It's such a pain to get it out and connect all the paraphernalia to it. I need to have a dedicated space for the sandblaster but that's not going to happen while we own two cars! Regards, Mark

[@andrew5792]

Mark I'm a little concerned that you are suffering from one of the great afflictions the hobbyist. The need to achieve rocketry levels of precision on items that are totally utilitarian.

[@Preso58]

I think my ASD was showing a bit there! Regards, Mark

[@jimmccorison]

I was thinking the same thing, but the techniques he shows are valuable to learn. It may be overkill for him on that application, but for a rank amateur like me, that would be the perfect thing to try learning on.

[@michaelcarroll6400]

A here was me thinking, that the cork gasket was a good idea!!

[@Preso58]

Me too. But then someone comes along (usually after the fact) and tells you a better way of doing it. Regards, Mark.

[@000gjb]

Love your warts and all video's, I get a lot out of seeing other methods used to complete a project. Can you please do a comparison between Autodesk Inventor and Fusion 360 3D modelling packages for newbies, just how much usable difference is there? Fusion 360 for those who don't know is available as a free download for hobbyists. A word of warning, after watching about 20 or so videos to get my head around the program, Autodesk brought out a new version which broke familiarity with the program. Sometimes more is less. For 2D Auotcad users, although Fusion 360 uses a lot of command terminology from Autocad, the familiarity ends there and the command structure is quite different. I watched with great interest you videos on the sandblasting cabinet. I want to build one. I came to the same conclusion that if you buy a Chinese clone, all you are buying is a $350 sheet metal box considering all the rework. My thoughts are to use a 1800 x 900 metal cabinet used in offices deepened to 800, mounted on a funnel on the bottom. There is a good website on KZbin for those interested called Armoury Enterprises in New Zealand which goes through construction of DIY vapour blasting cabinets and guns and yes you can buy guns from him. He uses a Chinese cheap brass "Y" valve body used for strainers as the gun body, which makes his guns compact and fit in the palm of you hand. One episode deals with converting a sand blasting cabinet to vapour blasting cabinet in 10 minutes, which indicates to me that you can have both sand blasting and vapour blasting in the same cabinet, switching between the two when required.

[@Preso58]

If you are interested in vapour blasting you might want to check out Arnold's Designs. kzbin.info/door/vicNrK-w2xs4iVr2TkZdOw He hasn't posted anything new for a while but he does some good stuff. I think I have seen a bit of Armoury Enterprises before. With regard to Autodesk Inventor, I had used it extensively when I was running a project called F1 in Schools with some secondary students. Previously we had used CATIA which was the flagship (and very expensive) CAD/CAM/simulation software from Dassault. Dassualt acquired Solidworks and it is now marketed as their prosumer CAD software. Inventor were progressive enough to change their business model so that schools and educators could obtain their software (like Inventor and Maya) for free. Prior to that we had to pay very hefty licence fees for the 2D Autocad even though we were training students to use it. I was lucky enough to be able to visit Autodesk in San Francisco when they were just about to launch their full cloud based Fusion 360. I found that my Autodesk Inventor username and password worked on Fusion 360 and I was able to try it out in their labs. I can use both Inventor and Fusion but somehow I still prefer Inventor. I can store my files locally on my own PC and I don't have to log in to use it. The main downside to Inventor is the built in rendering software is a bit ordinary. Fusion does a much better job and Inventor doesn't have any CAM capability. Still, I can import my Inventor files directly into Fusion if I want do create toolpaths. Regards, Mark

[@Jameson4327]

It looks 100% better!

[@oldninjarider]

Better is the enemy of good enough. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@danielfogli1760]

Story of my life 🙈

[@scruffy6151]

Nice repair looks much better.

[@andrewdolinskiatcarpathian]

Proof that OCD can result in an enjoyable episode. 👏👏👍😀

[@mr.t.807]

Mark you have your mill looking like a show piece, not a tool to work with. Cheers, and have fun.

[@KarlBunker]

So long, D.R.I.M. -- We hardly knew ye. 😢

[@gillywild]

That's the only "Bastard File" joke I have ever laughed at :))

[@joell439]

Mark, Was that the first time you powder coated epoxy? 👍😊👍

[@Preso58]

Joel, no I worked out that you can powdercoat the metalised epoxies a few year ago however I usually use it to spot fill defects in parts. This was the first time I put it on in such a thin layer. I have no idea where the lumps came from. They weren't bubbles so I can only think that I may not have let the epoxy cure for long enough and it may have not have been mixed uniformly. Possibly the heat from the oven made it expand more in some spots. Regards, Mark

[@chasmosaurus3]

I was worried you were going to scribe the perimeter of the bracket and "just" file to shape.

[@Preso58]

Definitely not! I am not that enthusiastic about filing aluminium. Although one of those carbide burrs in a die grinder would chew out a lot of metal quickly and you would just need to hand file a thin rim around the edge. Regards, Mark

[@one4stevo]

That's a cool trick

[@johnlemmey7698]

I am glad you thought it was worth it.

[@Preso58]

Absolutely! Something worth doing is worth overdoing! 😀 Regards, Mark

[@dougseag67]

I call my Fat Bastard file, a Clive Palmer file

[@Preso58]

That's an insult to your file! 😁

[@curtisvonepp9716]

WOW that will out last the machine .🏁

[@billbaggins]

Much more gooderer👍 Handy stuff when you knead it, don't think I've used it under compression tho. Will file that trick away. Fat bastard made me laugh and reminded me of a Tassie fish that comes in 3 varieties, Trumpeter... Bastard Trumpeter and Real Bastard Trumpeter.

[@Preso58]

I once heard a really offensive joke which involved a hardware store and a bastard file but I cannot repeat it here! 😁😁 I think I know about the Trumpeter fish. Are they those horrid stripey things with poison barbs on their gills? Regards, Mark

[@billbaggins]

Yep they are stripey, aka stripey trumpeter. Damn good table fish. Dunno about poison barbs, been a loooong time since I went fishing. Would not surprise me tho, nearly every other fish comes equppied with pointy, cutty, bitey things and we in Oz where apparently every animal is trying to kill us 🙄🤣

[@PhaseConverterampV]

The cork gasket was fine. Only you will notice that. Machine is too clean as well, better get an apprentice welder on that thing for a bit. Haha Nice finish product tho

[@dougvanallen2212]

Man I thought I had it bad

[@Preso58]

Yes, it's an illness not recognised in our wider community. The struggle is real! 😁 Regards, Mark

[@J4MB0]

ridiculous and beautiful

[@rbrown264]

i dont see any chips coming off that mill !!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@Preso58]

Ralph, tell me about it! I am hoping to remedy that situation soon. Regards, Mark

[@haraldesser2061]

Du bist ein toller Perfektionist das liebe ich. Gruß aus Aachen (Deutschland ) Harald

[@Preso58]

Danke für das Kompliment. Grüße, Mark

[@seanrodden6151]

For that much work, you could've just swung the head around and milled a flat spot!

[@Preso58]

😱 Don't give me any ideas! Regards, Mark

[@_bodgie]

It does look prettier Preso but It makes me wonder what lengths you old fellas will go to kill a day. Lockdown times I guess;)

[@markfryer9880]

Queensland aren't really in much of a lock down. A bit of Social Distancing and masks and closed Borders. Nothing compared to Melbourne with Stage 4 Lockdown with curfew and compulsory face masks, and stay within 5 km of your home. One person per household doing the shopping and one hour of exercise per day. Social Distancing measures to apply as well.

[@Preso58]

It's more about not letting a challenge go by. When John sent me the info I just had to try it to see if it could be done, If it had been a failure the video evidence would have been deleted! 😁😁

[@glennstasse5698]

Jason R Hey, watch it, Buster! Us old fellas are working hard to keep the day from killing us, lockdown or no lockdown. (When I saw “fat bastard” I thought Mark was addressing me directly.)

[@garymucher9590]

I guess I just don't understand. I thought the cork gasket was a good idea and held it without issue. I mean if you are going to go for "perfect" fit, then actually machine the back surface to match the contour and be done with it. There comes a time when trying to perfect such things is a exercise in uselessness. I think we've crossed that bridge now...

[@Preso58]

Gary, I must say I was happy with the cork interface but every now and then, another viewer will issue a challenge that cannot be ignored😁 I am one of those poor souls that cannot leave well enough alone. Still, I enjoyed the upgrade and it worked at almost zero cost so there's almost no downside. One thing though, it would have been quite difficult for me to map the contour of the ram casting to which the light bracket had to fit. If I had a FARO arm or a 3D scanner I could have mapped the shape, made a point cloud and then CNC machine the back face of the smaller casting. Sadly, I don't have any of that technology....yet! Regards, Mark

[@Ray-ej3jb]

Oops! Skimped on the putty

[@Preso58]

Absolutely, still, got there in the end.

[@davidfe47]

Wow, still slightly lacking for a truer RETRO touch. Chrome or Black Wrinkle powder coat on the light mechanism [excluding the "Bulb Protector"]. JUST SAYING. Tech Ingredients on KZbin as wonderful presentation for Epoxy. For the KICK IT UP with Epoxy.

[@Preso58]

I have some of that wrinkle finish powdercoat in black and red. It is amazing stuff and unlike the paint variety you get a really uniform wrinkle texture. I have used it on a few projects and you are correct about it having that retro look. Regards, Mark