WPL C14 by RBRC more mods.

[@Wild_Buggy]

My favourite model of all time 😍

[@modelnutty6503]

yup, the first one IS the best one, WPL C-14 with some simple mods is a great performer.

[@RunThatRC]

Its one of the classics for sure.

[@CookeCraft]

Just built my first C24 KM. Used all the stock parts first and it is pretty capable already. Building the metal axles at the moment. I am really enjoying your videos.

[@RunThatRC]

Nice! These little rigs are a blast to tinker with.

[@MRMechanicRC]

That’s a sweet little rig dude!

[@RunThatRC]

it's a cool setup. Now to repair and change wheels and tires and see how it does.

[@MRMechanicRC]

@@RunThatRC cool!

[@jonoedwards4195]

I stuck this body on My 144001. Great show Young Man!

[@RunThatRC]

thanks for stopping by!

[@jonoedwards4195]

@@RunThatRC DUDE!!

[@andredovale7845]

Nice Video, managed to get all the way to the top!!! That truck unfortunately is very lightweight, maybe adding some weigth to the front will increase grip. Also bigger diameter and sligth more maleable tires. Curious to see what comes next 👍

[@modelnutty6503]

@Hotel Night Cinema yes but its higher CG body+chassis weight, and a little costly. Fayee rims take 1 layer 2 mm solder (8 turns) perfectly, stretch electric tape over the solder 2 turns and end with a smear of CA keeps it tight to the rims, works well.

[@RunThatRC]

it would help but still not a fan of the tires. They seem to be harder than the mn model ones.

[@modelnutty6503]

@@RunThatRC there's harder and softer from that same mold, harder are more rubber, softer seem more vinyl-ish. bag soaking the harder ones in WD about 4 hours softens them up some, they'll swell some for it too, so you'll need to mount with Elmer's rubber cement in the beads. they give more traction but they really need to make a better chunkier lug pattern!

[@NyamukBalaprc]

Wow,nice upgrade friends😍👍

[@robsrcinsanity1220]

Great looking truck. I know you were disappointed in the wheels but damn if they don’t look good. 👍🏻🍻

[@modelnutty6503]

I run the softer on my "budget beast" C-14, and the harder older ones on my MN-D90 because I've added so much weight to that one for it to perform decently. there's definitely demand for some great tires to slap onto these Fayee rims.

[@georgivoyvodov1123]

Nice video mate ! In this status you've got a pretty capable trail racer, but it is far away from a crawler ...I went thru three C14 and C24 projects and have collected some conclusions : To make real master rock crawler first thing is to Drop the CG as low as it is possible. What I've done : Extended the frame and used MN portal axles ( 25 mm wider than WPL ) ; made custom pull rods longer than the standard WPL ones ; made exstentions of the drive shafts to match the new wheel base which from 155 mm I made 220 mm . Used 79 mm shocks replacing the 63 mm stock ones ; mount the shocks in angle of 45 degrees from the axle toward the center of the frame - this increased the flex with at least 150% ; between the axles and the rims I've fixed brass adaptors 5 to 12 mm hex ; te rims are 1.9" and 82 mm super soft swamp claws tires . The first build is with 370 motor, the second is with 2435 / 3200 kv / 40 A brushless combo and in the third I've used 2430 outrunner brushless combo. Now I have three top notch crawlers 🙂

[@RunThatRC]

awesome! I'm just building trail rigs. Not really trying to make it more capable. I like the scale factor and the challenge trailing a less capable rig gives you. Comp style rigs aren't really what I'm into. Just a trail basher for now.

[@georgivoyvodov1123]

@@RunThatRC I see bro ! Most important part is that you enjoy your work DWYL !!!

[@KPtain_RC]

Nice mods, great video! 👌

[@RunThatRC]

Glad you like them!

[@ButchiRC]

Nice! I upgraded mine with 370 motor and 2 speed from wpl, but there’s a problem, the wheels when moving are not locked when I encounter a rock. What could be the problem?

[@legoengineworkshop5171]

Maybe gears slipping?

[@modelnutty6503]

had tires spin on the rims before, Elmer's rubber cement stops that slipping really well, still easy enough to peel tires off the rims when needed. definitely check gears and shafts!

[@ButchiRC]

@@legoengineworkshop5171 yeah, i will order a new set of axles, and drive shafts, maybe gears inside the axles are worn out

[@ButchiRC]

@@modelnutty6503 yeah, tire contacts are ok, maybe gears are worn out

[@BhorjTV]

help pls. any recommendation on what good tires to use for a C14? i bought the c14. are those tires good? thank you

[@RunThatRC]

The WPL kit tires are better compound that stock RTR. So if your c14 is an rtr get some kit or the v3 tires from the wplrc website. These tires in this video are just ok nothing special.

[@BhorjTV]

@@RunThatRC thanks bro. another one, my single speed 370 motor keeps the wire hot everytime i run it, have you experienced this issue on your single spd 370's? thank you so much for your help

[@RunThatRC]

@@BhorjTV you probably need thicker guage wires to handle the current.

[@BhorjTV]

@@RunThatRC thanks a lot for this. actually this is what im thinking, just need someones experience, lmao thank you so much

[@kalaikauai808]

Nice Build! That thing climbs! 👍I'm looking for some metal upgrades for my c24-1 Any tips?

[@RunThatRC]

get the metal stuff that comes with the KM kits. That will make your c24 run good.

[@modelnutty6503]

yup, just one layer 2 mm solder (8 turns) to the front Fayee rims does wonders. widened stock WPL rims with soft 1st gen tires clipped to open them up, and 3x3 turns 2 mm solder (3 wide 3 thick) between front tire beads, even better! didn't care for the newer v4 taller narrower tires, good grip but tread too tight. my fav budget power plant is MN's gearbox for a 260, with a 280 swapped in, single speed but great gear ratio for the 280's torque, not a lot of top speed, still faster than a decent walking pace so its good for trails+climbing both. little 280 is still small enough for a 4 buck brushed ESC to run it no prob too. no arguing here, Fayee rims have the nice width but need better tires to fit them! tread pattern isn't friendly to trimming and the lugs just aren't chunky enough, someone PLEASE, 3D print a good silicone rubber injection mold to produce tires. (hello RC4WD maybe?) they're about 1+3/8" bead diameter 7/8" apart. the 2+7/8" total tire diameter is just fine but we want GRIP WITH TEETH! 1+1/8" tread face instead of 1+3/8" would make better patch psi for traction. (it is and isn't really all that technical lol) haven't jumped at the portal axles, something else to fail and raises the CG a bunch, if they were cast metal units reasonably priced then yes I just might go for a pair.

[@RunThatRC]

I'm liking the portal axles other than the sub par plastics they used. Metal portals may be the ticket.

[@modelnutty6503]

@@RunThatRC yup, WPL plastic is pretty brittle, MN's is a bit more flexible and durable, axle casings and axle bridges in particular. the WPL pot metal axle casings are solid, they look stock but much heavier than aluminum. aftermarket plastic casings with metal gears for WPL have some flexibility, same for the wider JJRC's with the larger centered pumpkin and bigger plastic bevel gears I used in the "budget beast" project after locking their diffs. 6-7 mm wider axles plus Fayee's wider offset rims gave 7/8" wider total, lots less prone to side tipping. back to portals.. if they used a tougher slightly flexible plastic blend they'd likely survive, but metal sure helps to lower overall CG. needs more power to get it climbing of course. have you tried a 280 swapped into MN's 260 gearbox? 280 motors were about 2 bucks a year ago in fleeba-hay, transferring the pinion is a chore, great budget torque tho! D90 here with 16 wraps 2mm solder on Fayee fronts, 17 wraps 1mm solder on rears, metal casings+gears+shafts, 285004 oil shocks (tons extra weight sheesh!). the 280 in the 260 gearbox got it running strong, stock was side tip and back flip if ya sneezed, it really needed all that weight to stay upright.

[@playanddisplay3636]

Great video, thanks for keeping the WPL content on your channel. I run the Fayee style tires on a lot of WPL's and they get better as they get some miles on them. Really soften up and just eat. I generally weight them with soldier since your lifting the rig over stock WPL tires. Check out my channel I got a few run videos on similar terrain to what you ran here. See if you think it makes a difference?? Maybe some JB weld for those axels ends?