Poor Man's Carpenter's Bench | 6 Wranglerstar

[@virginiadavis8588]

I first heard this method on the Woodsmith's Shop with Roy Underhill. Roy just used a layout knife for the kerf rather than using a chisel, so the chisel might be a Sellers adaptation, but it is an old style hand tool method. Thanks again for your videos.

[@themonohub5455]

I'd just like to say that I find this workbench series so wonderful to watch. Not just because I want to make my own bench one day, but because of the calm, almost almost Zen like, approach that is taken. Not only are they deeply educational, but they are also deeply engaging and, well.... calming, I guess. It's like watching someone on a voyage of discovery and self discovery, and open heartedly sharing their experience. The honesty, and yes sometimes naivety, is down right inspirational. Thank you so much for these.

[@E.lectricityNorth]

Great video series Cody. Once again I am blown away by the calibre of people you draw to your videos. It is a testament to you, so thank you.

[@keithbarkwood8102]

This series is turning into such a nice compliment to Paul's series on this workbench. Your cinematography is spot on. I love the detail you filmed with regards to the knife wall. You are presenting the same material with such a different perspective. Thanks Cody, great work.

[@roaldeuller]

A couple of thoughts about the glue up: 1) I always spread the glue into an even layer with a card or brush before clamping. I notice you just squeezed it out into a big squiggly pattern. This tends to produce glue voids. Having lots of glue drip out can be deceptive, there can still be voids inside. Sliding the boards against each other helps, but spreading it out beforehand is the most reliable. 2) When gluing multiple boards together, especially with a really big glue up like this one, I like to glue ONE joint at a time. So, glue and clamp the first two boards. Wait an hour, remove the clamps, and add the third board, then the fourth, and so one. Granted this takes more time. But if you try to clamp them all at once, your clamps are overwhelmed trying to pull all the joints together at once, expecially with heavy lumber. Good luck -Roald

[@D1R7Y54N32]

That is easily the best cut done with a handsaw that I've ever seen. Nicely done Cody!

[@alexandrojack5650]

i appreciate you showing the failures. We all can show the our best craftsmanship but to show our failures shows our humility. In reality there is no failure, its called learning.

[@SaikouHD]

Im from Sheffield, England and it's true, we're great at everything ;) Loving the series!

[@brdavid6243]

I to am enjoying watching your video's. I am wheelchair bound since 2010 in my younger years I was a machinist. When I went to school for it I had an instructor that would pound it in our heads when we had projects that required a hacksaw. Wood is much like metal when it comes to cutting. 1st. The nice man that sent you the hand saw paid for the whole blade " as my instructor would say". That should help some of your saw hanging up. 2nd. You can't make a square cut if your body and shoulders are not square to your work when you are sawing. I realize this video is a year old and this project is long since completed. I hope these pointers help your quest in making a square cut with a handsaw. Happy sawing Brent

[@QwertyCharlieFourate]

i love how the bench is coming along at this point in the serie and i absolutely love the music :)

[@Ravencroak]

Hi cody good to see the golden guinea getting good use . Sorry to hear it was bent in shipping . Try rubbing candles on the saw to avoid sticking and point your first finger along the saw handle to aid with stability. Regards from Ireland. Your friend Declan.

[@astrowhale]

+1 for pointing your finger along the handle. The saw was twisting in the cut, I think that may be causing the binding problems. Also when you saw don't squeeze the handle so tight, in the words of Chris Schwarz hold it like a baby bird.

[@musFuzZ]

4:47 - 6:21 that was the best and most magical bit of video i have seen all month. The music fit absolutely perfectly! It was so beautiful that i had to watch it twice. I salute you good sir. wranglerstar

[@brandonkindschy7362]

This was a great lesson learned. I have never heard of the knife wall before. Great video. Specifically, I really enjoyed the part of the video where the camera was zoomed in close to the creation of the knife wall with the chisel.

[@OldSneelock]

Please forgive the length. This video has a lot going on. I’m greatly enjoying your bench build. There’s a lot more to it than most would think. Having you go step by step is a great lesson in setting up the job. Other than needing more clamps you have a good setup. I wouldn’t worry too much about the glue joints in the top. The method you used to spread the glue has worked for a lot of woodworkers, Paul Sellers included. Having more glue in the joint will not improve a joint as much as having the wood in contact over the whole surface of the joint. I went back and looked at Part 3. At 1:57 I could see that there is some cupping of the boards. This is to be expected with the heartwood running through the center of the 2x6. The cupping affects the glue up more on the ends because the clamp on the end only has whatever power it develops on its own. In the middle the clamps on either side work together. The Irwin clamps bent while you were tightening them. I believe you were trying to draw the boards together and eliminate the gaps. That’s asking a lot from the clamp. The cupping is the same force that splits logs down the middle so the Irwin is outclassed. I think that having the thicker 2x6 top was the beginning of the glue up troubles. The narrower 2x4 tops don’t have as much trouble with cupping over the shorter width of the board. The boards are also weaker and the clamps have less work to pull them together. The 2” face on your pipe clamps can only grip the edge of the 2x6 but can reach past the middle of a 2x4. The test on the ¾” offcuts does indicate a weaker glue joint. I don’t think it will cause the whole top to be weak. You have a big surface for the glue to hold onto and most of it will be in much better contact than the Irwin clamp could pull on the ends. A couple guys mentioned cutting the corners first. That’s my go to method on something as thick as the laminated 12x 6 you built. I have the wood sitting lower so I can get my eye over the top and see the knife wall on the top and the far side. I carefully line up the blade so it tracks both knife walls and cut the corner at a 45. The shorter path created by the 45 degree angle will help clear the sawdust out of the teeth. The saw tooth has to completely exit the wood in order for the chips to clear. Cutting 12” with a 26” saw leaves sawdust in the center teeth and acts like a sled for the saw to ride on. The result is a lot more work and a cut that wanders. Cutting 7” lets the teeth clear themselves. Once it is completely down to the bottom corner I either roll the wood or cut the near side with the saw pointing up at a 45. With the two saw cuts providing a path of least resistance I go back to the original cut and cut through the wood with the saw at a 45 again. Having the wood low enough to get your eye over the cut lets your shoulder swing free and helps your arm follow a straight line easier. Once the blade is fully in the cut, the width of the blade acts like a rudder and steers the blade through the wood in a straight line. If the initial cut isn’t straight all the twisting in the world won’t bring it back. Most of this explanation is about how to use the saw. If the saw is sharp, straight, that little bend at the end isn’t too bad, and has .005” of set it should cut dried framing lumber very well. Too much set or dull teeth will make the saw track toward whatever side has the sharpest teeth or the widest set. You were able to cut the 2x6 boards to length with the saw and the cuts look pretty square in the view at 1:57 in Part 3 so I’m guessing the saw is okay. All in all the top looks great. I learned a lot more after making my first bench.

[@OldSneelock]

I agree TenspeedTheBikeHanger. There is a reason that plywood is made of 1/8" or thinner layers. The thin ones are easier to force into close contact. Even if you mill your own wood it has to dry and then be rough cut then dry some more. Cody is on the right track and it should be fine. He'll just have to make his new one in 10 years out of Douglas Fir that he cut this year. Jack will be ready to take over this one by then.

[@daftTony]

Thanks for sharing your struggles instead of editing them out like many do. Was a great learning experience.

[@CampfireTalk]

Good to see you staying with it and not getting deterred by a couple of off cuts. When I started out I rushed my work and lost my cool if it didn't go perfectly. Lessons learned as I grew older and to enjoy the process. Great series

[@aerosaaber]

I really like the close up action shots. It makes me feel almost like I'm there.

[@1st67mustang390]

Lol..not one second sharpening a chisel. Great thing about KZbin is you get to interact with us. Great vid as always, God bless

[@kelvinhoffman3188]

you talk about the glue joints being weak, and every time that I've gotten good glue joints I've used a small paint roller to even out the glue application. It has helped me immensely.

[@paulwastaken]

I"m loving this series ( i love all vids that you are building and learning in) thanks Paul.

[@goalscorer20]

Cody just a tip I learned from trade school. When using a saw point your index finger out the side of the saw. Don't know if i explained that well enough but it has helped me a lot.

[@mitchstinson8045]

I am really enjoying the series on the bench! I am adding it to my project list, I would love to have one myself. I have always struggled with making square cuts with a handsaw as well. My handsaw needs a good sharpening though which would help greatly. I watched a Paul Sellers video once on sharpening handsaws but need to watch it again as a refresher. Your bench is looking great, ready to see how it turns out!

[@SedatedandRestrained]

I enjoyed the chisel sharpening bit, very informative like most of your videos! Keep up the good work sir, always enjoy watching.

[@ZipKickGo]

It's fun seeing woodworking techniques I'm learning to do in college-being used in other places of the world. We are taught that exact cutting prep and cutting technique. If we have difficulty cutting straight we sometimes clamp straight boards on the top of the workpiece and sandwiching the saw blade(not tightly of course) acting as a straightedge jig.

[@TreF68]

Cody, Im sure you have had many comments about the glue-up, but I have always found that spreading the glue with a putty knife or even a my fingers insures that the glue is covering the whole surface when clamping. Thanks for the video, I love the length and detail you put into it.

[@madisonsaxton9863]

I used to watch my dad in the 1950s and I learned from him that when his saw would bind in a deep cut, he would rub his saw blade with bar soap. It has been working for me too.

[@Theoutdoorproject80]

Cut halfway through the wood, flip it over and finish your cot from the backside, then you can plain it a little to fine tune it. Ive been a professional finishing carpenter for 20 years now. your doing great cody, your very talented, and i love your videos brother. Cheers.

[@dgale1023]

I watched Pauls video on his workbench and the only gluing difference I can see is he had much smaller bottles giving a smaller hole to come out of and he worked the wood back and forth before he clamped. I donno personally think you are doing a stellar job and am enjoying your vid. I will watch more and will sponsor. You deserve it

[@wranglerstar]

+dave gale (none) Thank you. Learn a lot from Paul.

[@BeachBow]

You have way more patience than I have! Last time I glued something like that was starting the process to make a bowl in high school wood shop.

[@jamierobb]

Nice to see you having so much fun building your bench

[@ecleveland1]

1/32th off is very good with a hand saw, especially through thick material. For the fine detail that's what the planes and sanding blocks are for. A recommendation for gluing if you are not running your material through a wide planer. Drill offset holes every foot or so depending on the thickness of your beam or tabletop then use all thread rod and pull everything tight when you clamp and glue. If you don't want the all thread to be seen drill a bigger hole to start the all thread and then break it off deep and tap in wooden bung and sand down to hide the hole. I have done this making beams and extra thick counter tops made like butcher block.

[@mercoid]

I used the knife-wall method a few days ago to miter some moulding. Work out very nicely.

[@Talkitoutt]

The comment at the end about sharpening chisels was great!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hi Cody, The right way to do this is the way that works for you... "Saw-Walk" is very common in deep cuts, you can minimize this by flipping your work on edge. Cutting the smallest area. Think about it, you wouldn't cut a 2x4 or 2x6 on the wide side! Also don't be afraid to clamp a couple of straight edges to guide a long cut. There is no cheating in woodworking... Next time flip the work on edge, extend your index finger, cut at a 45 and enjoy... Keep up the good work!!!

[@JorgeAraujo]

I think like anything to really get good at you must practice. Sawing perfectly square and plum is so hard.. I think you can get there, but the beauty is you got pretty close and well that is what those pretty planes are for, with a good block plane to get it close and then that #5 or #4 you can get it flat and square. This video series is really great.

[@matthewgarrison644]

I really enjoy this length of video...maybe its just me, but i enjoy being able to really get involved in the videos. your saw problem puzzles me.. God Bless!

[@greengohm]

Those chisel close-ups are just amazing :)

[@BernieCarter1976]

Can i just say i am loving this series. Thanks

[@godwinolivier4866]

Great video. I am absolutely loving this and don't listen to the critics who say you spend too much time sharpening chisels. I have watched you evolve on this sharpening and it has taught me so much. Now then, to reciprocate.. and I say this only because I saw you taking pains to plane in a very uncomfortable-looking upward motion, but ... when planing over end grain, you can prevent chips/knock off by first slightly beveling the at-risk edges with your plane.

[@TheCompleteGuitarist]

I haven't read through all the comments though I have noticed some good advice. I always had the problem of accurate cuts and poor saws. The first thing that improved the process was sharpening the saw. It made a huge amount of difference in removing the effort required and allowed the saw to do the work. I have cut very straight cuts with a bent saw so that's not always the problem. What revolutionized my cuts was the groove that you cut as recommended by Paul Sellers, however I cut the wall all the way around the work. I always cut with two faces in sight and regularly turn the work so basically the outside of the cut can be made accurately and these saw channels help guide the saw and keep the cut accurate. Cutting unsighted, ie just starting at the top and sawing till you come out the other side is always a recipe for disaster, you'll never make an accurate cut that way, though I am sure there are some masters who can, I wouldn't recommend it. If you want accuracy always make sure you can see what you are cutting. Thanks for sharing your work, it's this kind of trail and error effort that you are going through that helps us all.

[@TheCompleteGuitarist]

Just wanted to add that the saw binding was probably caused by the bend in the cut. The grain of the wood can also have an impact on what the saw does which is why it pays to tackle the job from the outside (all sides_in I noticed (now I read a few more of the comments) some one else recommending this method.

[@yveskc1]

Nice! Can't wait to see the final product.

[@harveysmith100]

Good video again. Nice to see someone who has skills in other trades learning new ones. Paul is a very good starting point for any woodworker. If I could advice just a little, when using a normal saw, don't wrap all your fingers around the handle, the fore finger should be straight, resting on the handle, pointing in the direction of cut. You will be amazed at something so small can help but it does. Also follow the advise below about cutting shallow cuts on two sides and then cutting diagonally, this is the real key to cutting large wood. Maybe someone has done a good video and someone can recommend. Another great youtube guy is Askwoodman, Allan is very helpful to watch.

[@liamstrain]

Some carpenters, including Paul Sellers - keep a rag in a can with a little oil, and oil the saw blade a bit as you go, to prevent binding. Uses it on the base of his planes too. You can also adjust your sawing angle so you are not pulling across the full width, but once you start the cut, angle it up so you are essentially cutting down the narrow side (like a rip), not the long side.

[@wbs9745]

I like to keep a candle or a piece of wax in my tool box. I use it on the bottom of my hand planes and on the sides of the saws. It will make the tool much easier to push or pull. Just a little wax can make a screw go into wood much easier as well. I have been enjoying your channel for about a year now and wish you and your family all the best and Gods blessings in the new year. In his service Wayne S.

[@wranglerstar]

wbs9745 Thank you Wayne,

[@JesseHires]

I like your mention of using a small tape measure. I have a couple of large tape measures, but would always grab my wife's smaller tape measure until she got on my case about putting it back where it is supposed to be kept. Went and bought my own small tape measure.

[@finaltom5]

Handsaw's are made to be used at a 45 degree angle while cutting and you are above your work. This angle puts the proper amount of pressure needed to cut with a hand saw. When you go straight along the wood, your saw is more likely to bending and warping, hence giving you a funky edge. TY for sharing

[@shananjanusch897]

Hey Cody First of all thank you for posting the videos I anjoy them very mutch. The best way to saw square is by using a guide. And saw on every face. So square guide with gleu klamps. And saw third of the thiknes. And then finish the cut. And plane the center. Hoop it helps. God bless.

[@4910devin]

Your amazing with the filming you do throughout all of your videos! I would dare to say you spend more time setting up the cameras and editing than you do working. God bless!

[@freewheelinfranklin6201]

Great vid(s). Not rushed and feels . . . zen. I have read other folks' comments about "going off track" but I feel this is very helpful to the beginner who will learn good and important information. It's also good to see an accomplished woodworker trying something for the first time and without power tools. This way we see it all, warts an' all. Thanks ^_^

[@trevorcaito1074]

With the glue joints being an issue, you cant have enough clamping pressure when doing a glue up. however what i have found is that if i spread the glue with a paintbrush or a ink roller then i have less issues with coverage than if i dont use something to spread it with. This makes the coverage of the glue more uniform and makes the joint stronger. Also if you put packing tape on your clamp bars you dont need to scrape the glue off of them. and the squeeze out , if you wait about 15 to 25 minutes after you do your glue up, the squeeze out has set up a bit but it is still soft enough to scrape off and leave minimal sanding to be done to get it off the rest of the way. love your channel.

[@SuperRealKittenVT]

I know it's been a bit since this video but I gotta say I love your videos i finished your tree house series in two nights and I always depend on your videos at night when I have nothing to watch and need someone who isn't loud and obnoxious to watch at 3am

[@Traveltubefr]

Hello from France, a little tip, Never put your finger in front of a cutter, always behind because it will quickly jump the thickness of the bracket and cut you deeply! good vidéo Cody. God bless. JC, Carvin North France.

[@mike1w1r]

Easy way to trim those fingernails. :)

[@mike1w1r]

mike1w1r Learned that cutting drywall with a T-square.

[@stephenbailey3496]

Greetings from London, I always enjoy the honesty in the videos you upload. If you stick your index finger out it will help you control the saw. Also Bahco make a very good teflon coated cross cut saw with a very thick blade to prevent flex, Its not possible to re sharpen but as you know from the laplander they make a very good cutting saw. All the best from a fellow carpenter.

[@KonigsTiger581]

Awesome video. Can't wait to try that technique in my projects.

[@thelumberjack333]

I like the way your doing these videos. No hollywood magic, the real work that goes into it. The boring stuff! Nobody wants to sharpen chisels for hours, or re-cut the end of a bench 4 times, but that is what it takes and I love the fact that your showing it. Its almost a friendly challenge, I can do it, here is how you do it. Go do it. I think my Dad would really like a carpenters bench. Could be a good gift, keep the videos coming!

[@williamjordan2930]

I was always told to cut down 2 faces at once on the right angle corner to it square, so you can see both lines, position yourself over the lumber so you can see what you are cutting, knee height saw horses may be better for these thickness cuts. A lot of people don't realize how important it is to keep your forefinger on the outs of the grip to keep the saw straight. I enjoy your videos! 👍🏻

[@williamjordan2930]

Sorry about my typos' 🙄

[@colemcmillan4714]

Thanks again for the video, really enjoying this series.

[@bunkkasponge]

Thank you for a great video. Greetings from Norway

[@mrg1062]

try cutting across the shortest width down it makes it easyer to control the saw. knife wall all the way aroud. then saw all the way around an inch or so deep on all sides it helps guide the saw on a big peace like that. check now and then to make sure its following the groove (yeah man) if it starts wondering off stop turn the peace and start on the other side for a second chance. great channel! Thank You

[@MrJsowa]

you hit the nail on the head at 13:35, you need to just glide the saw back and forth.I use a disston d-8 26in" skew-back from the 40's and it works well for everything i use it for,small firewood/limbing small trees,cutting plywood,dimensional lumber,it even did well on some angled cuts for a tool box i built out of 1x10 pine.Also it takes a lot of practice which it seems you will get plenty of on this project.wish ya the best

[@Durphairds]

Great series so far!

[@calebklyne6406]

wranglerstar Needs more chisel footage! Haha. I learned very quickly that you can rarely have too much glue and never have too many clamps. As others have said making sure you spread the glue will keep your joints sealed shut. And I just use a scrap chunk of wood for that.

[@estebanfernandez5393]

Hi. thanks so much for the videos, while as mentioned on some of the other comments, maybe it wasn't the right saw, But!!! sometimes you got work with what you have, so in any case, try rubbing a candle on the sides of the saws, that reduces the binding, A LOT!!!

[@MrJwallone]

Great series Cody!!!! keep em coming,

[@MDangler14]

Those shark pull saws are probably my best twenty dollar purchase. Glad you like them too.

[@TheBiglew415]

Glad to see the new plane in action! Enjoy!

[@greg76543210]

Great video. Good luck with the storm!

[@marinovskiv]

thank you for the video, I would like to suggest using a low angle plane / block plane next time you try to plane end grain, it will have much less resistance to cutting.

[@bradkrit]

I chuckled when you said "Happy Days" I sent a work email that included that about 30 minutes before watching your video, not sure why it popped into my head today.

[@scottrossgirvan8009]

Great series. 5 Stars Cody, A+.

[@bigolmoose693]

Maybe part of the the binding on the Golden Guinea is the proverbial lacquer finish, the same as was on your chisels. All the Best

[@samson58]

Hey Cody, Great Series. When looking at breaking down lumber of the size you are doing i think you should have a look at Tom Fidgeons kerfing saw. It is an odd little thing that you can use in the knife wall to cut a kerf about an inch into the wood. Once you do this all around the timber you a re squaring off the kerf becomes a channel that the saw runs in large cutting saws won waver as they will move within the kerfs as the kerf will act as a fence. The plane you are looking for for end grain is a low angle block plane. which is still smaller than your new one and is designed for the end grain job. It is interesting watching you work as you tend to side the plane across the timber at an angle. Did you know this also reduces the angle of the plane as it acts like a compound angle? If you plane a board straight with a 45 degree pitch blade the blade will approach at 45 degrees but by skewing the heal and bringing the plane in a sideways manner you could be approaching at a 40 degree angle with 45 degree blade. . ,

[@PastorHinChrist]

I use dry soap on the saw blade- try it- it works. From my great grandfather who worked at the sheffield factory in the UK

[@Barbarra63297]

I have found using a large metal rule and clamping it down on your piece gives you a good clean cut that goes down the depth of the saw blade, seems to work well for me and it's faster than making knife cuts and chiseling. Like anything unless you are a sawyer who does this a lot, it takes practice to get a square cut especially on deep cuts like your workbench. I also sometimes use a combo square to 'bubble up' my saw blade so I know the saw is entering the wood as level as possible.

[@slim-elbow]

Another great video. Thanks Cody!

[@pr4runner]

Have never cut something that thick for precision, but when I cut dove tales, I made a jig that clamps on and has rare earth magents to keep the saw flat against the jig. Works fine for stock that is 8/4 , don't know how well it would work for 24 / 4 stock.

[@CJLeTeff]

Cody you may try using the Guinea saw to cut around each of the four sides before picking a side to finish with. I think you're getting glue residue on your blade causing the binding.

[@LizardWizard08]

I believe Paul uses 3 in 1 oil to lubricate the saw lightly when it starts biding, helps a lot. I use camellia oil. Also good observation, don't force saw just take your time and just guide it and let it cut. Cutting straight seems easy but takes patience and practice. Good job!

[@ScottishNSRailFan]

Excellent video with warts and all.

[@canadiancowman2978]

Happy no chisel sharpening. Great work Cody!

[@DavidKirtley]

Don't beat yourself up on the cut quality. Even the worst one is a quite acceptable cut on that scale. Cut a bit proud and and then trim down to the line with a plane. You should change your strategy with the pull saw. It takes a bit of getting used to but with the pull saws, it is easier to start sawing near you instead of away from you. Cut with the saw at about 45 degrees through the near corner and then you can follow lines on two sides (the top and the near side) to keep your cut going in one plane instead of trying to only follow one line. On larger timbers, I prefer to make the cut around on all sides. Go in about 1/3 from each side, turn it over and repeat. Finally cut the last part in the middle. The set of the saw is one part but on really high quality handsaws, the blade is tapered thinner on top than down by the teeth. One other option for a saw is my personal favorite: I prefer frame saws. You really need to get used to lubricating your saw blades and plane soles while using them. Friction is not your friend.

[@matelotjim9035]

Fully agree, when cutting big timbers I work all the way round with the saw (after cutting a knife wall if you like) and then cut through. And I find the Japanese saws really help if you use the right one, and you're right about re-sharpening, they're are usually designed to detach the blade from the handle and then you buy a new blade. And pull down with the Japanese saws on the near side, not pull up on the far side, hence the long handles so you can flex your elbow better when cutting or use two hands. Also it can be lots of things that pull a saw off, grain, saw set, the saw body, technique, Tuesdays... The saw was probably binding up because of the curve in the cut. wranglerstar No sharpening... :-P

[@DavidKirtley]

MatelotJim The saw is dragging at the tip and pushing it harder begins to bend the blade. The curve in the blade curves the cut. The more the cut curves, the more friction it creates and the the deeper the curve becomes. That is why the cut is straighter at the beginning than at the end.

[@matelotjim9035]

David Kirtley I've noticed that when cutting thick timber myself, I saw the curve in the timber Cody was cutting and reasoned that's why it was binding, I didn't know it was because it was dragging at the tip and curving, thank you for enlightening me. Something to watch for in the future.

[@E.lectricityNorth]

MatelotJim Honestly guys, sometimes when I get the chance to read through these comments, I feel like I am getting really valuable free education. Thank you guys--both those asking the questions, and those sharing their knowledge and experience. Not to mention, thanks Cody for making it all possible to begin with.

[@DavidKirtley]

It doesn't make much difference as long as it is nothing that will interfere with a finish (silicone is the worst.) A light oil non-drying oil -vegetable or animal based, beeswax, candle wax, paraffin (Not the UK usage that we call kerosene but the waxy stuff they use for canning) . Yes, they did used to use tallow :) My preference is a soft beeswax furniture paste. Smells nice, not messy.

[@simonaldridge82]

hi Cody sharpen your saw and then set it. to test saw down a price of wood following a line. if the saw tracks to the left or right you can stop this by filing off a little of the set on the side that tracks. repeat until the saw tracks straight. there are further videos on setting up hand saws.

[@simonaldridge82]

you can true up your end grain with your new refurbished handplane

[@barrygirky8194]

Mr. Wranglerstar, I watched a video from Paul Sellers, it was on how to sharpin a saw. He showed how a crosscut saw in not made to cut across the grain of the wood.

[@barrygirky8194]

In the video, if I understood him right, they are for ripping. Cutting with the grain for the wood.

[@pharmersimon1726]

Hi Cody, Because I don’t yet have hand saws as long or as nice as yours whenever I need to make an important VERTICAL cut I use my one handled Atkins bucking saw. I’ve found that the weight of a properly sharpened bucking saw wants to cut vertical and is stiff enough to do so. I guess this suggestion is a little late, but I thought you might want to keep it in your back thoughts for next time. Your an Inspiration for us all! -Simon

[@ronnieleehurstmusic]

Great series, Cody!

[@paulallanidae]

Try rubbing wax candles on the body of your saw, really helps with friction on deep cuts and allows you to make longer strokes.

[@ashleyseeley8409]

You might find it a bit easier to get straight cuts if you point your finger whilst you cut with a hand saw it helps to keep the blade cutting true. Great videos mate keep it up!

[@Shawn-rq4py]

If you cut it vertically like you have at 13:50 or so when you planed it, would it be easier to cut it square? Just wondering

[@simonaldridge82]

it is also about practise and muscle memory the patience I think you have. Paul sellers has many videos and is a master craftsman it may benefit you to subscribe to his web site, but there are many videos on you tube on saw setting. you tube has a wealth of knowledge but you still have to start from the bottom and lean the craft. I know you will master this in time but like any other craftsman you will learn from your mistakes and how to rectify your errors. thank you for this new journey you are taking

[@simonaldridge82]

sorry to mutter on but one persons technique may not suit you there are several ways to achieve the same goal. when sawing large cuts like you have just done , I find it better to saw at an angle to establish two straight planes at the same time.

[@MITradesmen]

Great series! Thank you

[@TheOxanian]

I was wondering when the "knifewalls" would come in to play. Paul Sellers is an amazing craftsman.

[@h0y0ung]

I should have posted on the earlier video of this project you have going on, the wood glue should have been spread out evenly when you were laminating the boards together to get a solid and complete coverage. I am not sure if someone mentioned this already or not so I am posting it. Other wise, I really enjoy your videos!

[@nancejo]

The added benefit of a knife line is that it also reduces tearout. To help with the eyes, you can run a fine mechanical pencil along the knife line to hightlight the line.

[@johnwarner1534]

Cody, if you lightly oil the saw plate with 3in1 it might help. Also is it still sharp? I have a 26" Lenox panel saw that has 10 TPI and it can handle 5" RED OAK. Maybe you need a saw with fewer TPI?

[@tuirrenn]

Just a thought, one thing that helped me cut straighter was to extend my index finger along the axis of the saw, like you are holding it out of the trigger guard on a pistol. Thanks Cody. Paul Sellers says that he didn't invent the idea of the knife wall, but he thinks he might have coined the phrase.

[@MikeBandte]

Hi Cody, the probleme was that you didn´t realy look the videos from Paul good. He showed much more then that. Don´t start all the way on the top side. Go in the front and Back a littlebit down, this will guide the saw. All the best Mike.

[@flickashot]

I know it may sound weird but before i ever glue joints together i wipe both sides down with denatured alcohol or acetone, dwpending on my material. I also use a good amount of claps and space them every 4" overkill i know but i never have to worry about splits. Bit either way your stuff looks great and jealous

[@garyf6971]

There are 3 generations of carpentry behind me though I did not follow suit but my dad taught me a lot about fine wood working. Any way to the point. When gluing joints he told me to completely coat both sides of the wood to be joined. He used his finger to spread it and rub it in. He'd let it set a few minutes so it soaked into both sides. He'd then added a small bead of fresh glue near the center and put them together. This is the only way to guarantee that the glue is in contact everywhere. It also keeps the glue from squeezing out so much. Had this been a piece you wanted to stain you wouldn't want glue on the surfaces. He used old school Elmers Wood Glue. He always told me that a good glue joint would not break before the wood did. He was right.

[@cwsmith17]

Great job brother and God Bless!!

[@chrisblack2625]

There's not a more satisfying sound than a knife cutting into cross grain.