AC not blowing cold, then it works fine !?!? What could cause this?

When the AC pressures are normal on this Altima , the AC works perfectly. So why does the AC stop working suddenly and the pressure max out ?
#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny #airconditioner #airconditioning
#freon #acsystem #acnotcooling #acnotworking #airconditioningservice #airconditioningservice

[@johnathandye5244]

This man fixed the problem and that is all that matters, you can truly tell he cares as well, god bless you.

[@BJ-bd5fc]

Great video - including the explanation of the expansion valve and what it does. Thanks! Having driven a 2002 Altima for 262K miles and fixing a lot of things myself, I felt a little twinge of PTSD watching this video. Working down near the firewall (ABS, A/C, etc.), I had my fair share of cut knuckles and fingers, and streams of profanity.

[@dporrasxtremeLS3]

I thought that was me only! Thanks for sharing this! Bleeding knuckle frustrations! Painfully SO!

[@richwilson7082]

Great video. The description of the video title is what brought me in as I have the same issue. Thanks!

[@luisreyes5394]

You really make it look easy, even when it was really hard working on it

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thank you for your kind words & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@topher8634]

Great job. I recommend replacing drier anytime system is opened. Also break vacuum with nitro rather than with atmosphere. The oils used with R-134a are hygroscopic meaning they have an affinity for moisture. It cannot be removed by vacuum only with desiccant in the drier. If TXV stops feeding the evap then low side will go into a vacuum. You are essentially pumping the system down and stacking liquid up into the condenser. That reduces the surface of the condenser and causes high discharge pressure. Hope that helps you some.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Thank you! I am by no means an AC expert. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with me. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@topher8634]

@@WrenchingWithKenny happy to help when and where I can. Been an A/C and refrigeration tech since '02. I don't have a problem with helping others.

[@donaldharris1134]

Topher8634 i have an 08 vw jetta how does an diyer like me remove the refrigerant to just replace a switch on the compressor

[@topher8634]

@@donaldharris1134 without a recovery machine nor a vacuum pump the only other method is to place a recovery cylinder in !bucket of ice and connect the hose to it and open valves. Refrigerant migrates to the coldest environment. Of course you will need some manifold guages and a recovery cylinder at the very minimum. This will only remove Refrigerant liquid and will not reduce system pressure to zero. You will want to pull a vacuum before recharging for optimum system performance and longevity. Which switch is it...there is usually a valve core underneath preventing the loss of charge when it is removed. Let me know and I'll research.

[@donaldharris1134]

@topher8634 thank you sir for taking time to reply its the compressor control solenoid on a 2008 vw jetta 2.5 making the compressor have intermittent cooling

[@teagreen2220]

As the availability of parts and fasteners decreases with the times, I think an EasyIn would be a necessary tool to have! Great idea Kenny! Or… an easy out for left handed threads. Great, informative video!

[@seangriffon6502]

As an hvac tech. I prefer a good ole piston metering device over a txv anyday. Expansion valves have moving parts that just fail. A bored piston will never fail.

[@j81851]

AC guy with a few decades under my belt. Train and test for AC 608 and 609 certification.. Do maintenance and repair as well as theory training. This scenario will be tough. Simply replacing the valve, and really the dryer at a minimum means this system will absolutely grenade itself again in short order. When you see that black coating and gunk in the TXV valve like that it is contamination. Likely this one has had a small leak (service port cap left off, schraeder valve leak PUT THE SERVICE PORT CAPS BACK WHEN YOU ARE DONE!) resulting in topping the system off several times. Refrigerant leaks out, air gets in whamo bammo add more refrigerant, it cools OK, for a while. For you see when moisture gets into the POE or PAG oil (likely this is PAG) the oil absorbs the moisture (hygroscopic just like hydraulic brake fluid) turning into a dirty slimy gel like you see in the old valve. Anything we do in good intentions now given that we will likely NOT be able to flush this thing out (Thanks EPA for forcing car makers to be more environmentally "friendly" using more compact heat exchangers) This car needs it all, valve, dryer, evap, cond, lines and oil. This one will only die again SOON and cost more every time. And BTW so of that gack we see in the valve probably has fine metal in it given the age of the car showing us the compressor is on the way out too.....Remove the filter dryer and dump the oil out of it...bet you see more slime and metal.....I would hand this one back to the customer with explanation and a NO SALE invoice labor only for a diagnosis this is a non fix unless you do it right.

[@irisbaez1972]

I have a Kia soul 2012 with 74K miles. Compressor is leaking oil, maybe coming from the valve. System is working fine, cooling as usual or normal. I bought a brand-new compressor. Do you think is ok to replace just the compressor or it needs to replace expansion valve and drier? If I have to replace drier, I have to open it, so moisture will get in, is not better to buy the whole condenser that is coming with drier inside?

[@PermianPanther]

Very interesting

[@scottsatkowiak2347]

This was helpful as I also see the black liquid on the high side of the TXV. I am now replacing EVERY component.

[@CodyKlimaszewski]

Bro chill, you don’t have to call anyone a PAG. It’s okay

[@Gman193]

A question, not saying you are wrong,i'm a mechanic that's always eager to learn. They always say that moisture and air can get in the system, but i have a hard time believing air can get in a system that's mostly closed and constantly under pressure. Sure moisture maybe because of the hydroscopic nature of the oils but i always thought of it as strange.

[@smitty03281964]

Kenny that was a very good diagnosis and a great repair.

[@KalisWatcher]

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! 2003 Subaru Forester XS AT - bought three years ago. She's definitely taught us a lot! :) This issue describes our current challenge. System was evac'd and recharged with a Robinair system; no dye PAG oil, just R134a. The gauges were within Normal ranges, but high was a bit too high. Over the following days, I cleaned the evap / vents using the Subaru cleaner, and cleaned the Condenser & Radiator with coil cleaner (5:1). After 20 minutes of AC, the surging RPMs and clutch clicking starts, almost stalls the car... I then cleaned the throttle body, IAC, and the MAP sensor. Now the issue starts even faster! :) I checked the Clutch on the Compressor and the bearing seems a bit rough, so I'm going to replace it and the belt next. I don't have my own gauges, pump, or catch-container for refrigerant to remove the H-valve and flush the system, as yet, so mayhap the Clutch bearing is the issue - overheating..? Thank you, again, for your videos!

[@johnmccool7551]

Thanks Kenny .all music to my ears .enjoy all you’re vids .thanks again.👍👍👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️

[@RamzyTheDad]

Man the most valuable part of this video is how you got that bolt out!!! That’s a 4-5 hour task

[@why2kmax]

appreciate the video. My civic is doing the same thing. Wonder if thats it. Props to you for getting that bolt out, what a PITA that must have been.

[@dporrasxtremeLS3]

Thanks for sharing this Kenny! I learned So Much! Fantastic Video!

[@rickwidlund3512]

Watching as many videos as possible & learning more with every video.

[@victorjohnson3465]

Your a fine mechanic I don’t say that very often I’ve been turning a wrench for fourth years, I’d bet your quite fair charging your customers I would have tagged around $125.00 labor plus parts so keep up the excellent work my friend Victor j

[@jmk20083]

Luckily you didn't have to take the evaporator out. Good job sir.

[@hmongwild]

Very informative. I just replaced my compressor and condenser. Bought the car with a seized compressor. Now my clutch kicks on and off as I drove home from charging my system. I did notice that i had lack of power like the compressor had alot of load on it and its a v8 shoulnt be struggling on the freeway. So this really narrows it down for me. Im going to do another thuro check to make sure this is my issue which im already 100% sure it is

[@jeffreysenior]

I am very impressed by your diagnostic skills

[@chrisogletree883]

Great job Kenny enjoyed the video you do fantastic job and love how you explain what you’re doing and why things happen 😊

[@garyr7027]

That black in that expansion valve is from a pump. Be it that pump or from another pump, it's a sure sign of a pump failure. Some systems can't be properly flushed because of parallel condensers and they need replaced, so many people just shove a new or rebuilt pump on it and call it good. If that's the case here then the pump will fail prematurely. Probably also why that expansion valve failed, it's corroded up with that black stuff and it's hanging up.

[@tomkelley8732]

Picked up those Torx bits from amazon. Thanks for the tip!

[@luisreyes5394]

Great video

[@h0mbsk]

I appreciate this video and the time you took to make it.

[@JoeRetroWorld]

Thank you for such a great video.

[@richardgerome4897]

I had a problem like this years ago and it was the evaporator icing up and the blower motor wasn’t blowing through the evaporator and then it would stop blowing cold. The drain was dripping but was a little clogged which allowed the water to back up and freeze… Cleaned out the drain hole and the problem was solved…

[@davida871]

Great video. Thanks

[@emiliog.4432]

Debris inside the expansion valve is from the compressor. Many times it’s the compressor that causes the entire system to fail. When a compressor fails, you usually have to replace everything. Condenser, compressor, lines, etc

[@frankgonz31]

All these videos are good videos, but actually are really simple to diagnose.That really good problems are when pressures are normal ,compressors not cycling On and off and still, you get warm air , those are the the things lot of us have issues .where everything seems normal yet it's not cooling, it's not. Pressures are normal yet not cooling, or why not power to compressor while fuses are good, Those are really simple things.

[@TheTimtam112]

Ahhh ha! Having the exact same issue with my 96 corolla, we figured it could have been a blockage in the receiver/drier (low side was far too low when it was refusing to work, dad left high side adapter at work, so we couldn't check that) but what confused the hell out of us was that it would sometimes work. He ruled out the expansion valve for the same intermittent operation-reason, but the corolla uses the same style of TX valve as shown in this video, so that's evidence that it's the tx valve imo.

[@bosanovaboy]

Excellent video

[@user-gk7zx2ks5h]

Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?. Awesome video it helps a lot thank you.

[@deniro2695]

Nice job 👏👏👏👏👏

[@T.W.goodguy]

That's a lot of knowledge you gave us. Thanks for the video,on the Nissan. Cold A/C. Everyone loves.😉☮️🤙

[@johnmurphy9688]

Thanks for another great video, kenny .

[@ed78vette]

Outstanding presentation, I like your style. 👍🏼👍🏼

[@davesmith8431]

Excellent video my car is doing the same thing it's powering down on the engine and the air conditioning isn't what it used to be thanks so much for your help

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Did it work? There are so many variables when it comes to AC.

[@t006]

Awesome video it helps a lot thank you

[@Enrique-ts1md]

Good evening,great explanation on task done,great description on what needed to be done n all the troubles coming as the job was moving forward,a doctor of the @/c system on vehicles,I'm confident to say,the Mr has gotten some good schooling learning n understanding on how this job works,thumbs up to you n my hat off Mr ....

[@richarddiaz8248]

Nice work

[@agoodneighborautorepair2176]

Very good job,I recommend you to change the drier element also

[@douglasprovost768]

Any debris means that something is creating it. Changing one part is only a temporary fix until that new part also gets covered in more debris. A full strip down and flush/clean is required along with maybe new compressor and drier. Expensive, but the only long-term solution.

[@johnbarber9839]

fantastic

[@jtjones4727]

I've had to change the TXV on my old Honda Accord project car a couple of times, the exact same symptoms. If you just start the car up cold, the a/c would blow super cold and show normal pressures with the proper charge level. But after you drive it for 2 or 3 mins, it would start cycling all the time, and lugging the engine super hard. I have to do some work to actually drop the evap case out of the dash though, the TXV on mine is inside the evap case, and it uses the style with the long temp sensing tube. Not a hard job per se, just annoying having to work under the dash board. I think debris in the lines or system caused my TXV failures, I finally got a pretty good deal on a complete new system through Rockauto for about $230 dollars. Best money I ever spent, new condenser, new TXV, receiver/dryer, compressor, and I already changed the lines and flushed the evaporator.

[@DavidWeinberg-cm9xd]

Vim tools are not bad for the price? Have a Lisle Master Torx set, it's impact rated and great, but the detent for the ball lock isn't machined into the drive side of the sockets, and the sockets just fall off the extensions.

[@Remingtonrestoration]

😂😂😂😂😂 “I think we have a junk Altima out back…..” that’s a redundant phrase, u could just say “I think we got another Altima….”

[@vw_mods_4711]

Would be a good idea after recovery to add a slight 2/3 psi of dry nitrogen pressure, if you have gone into vacuum, so that the system doesn’t suck in the humid air when disconnecting lines rather a slight puff out. Make sure you have goggles on you don’t want the oil spat in your eye 👁️

[@roshankarim3479]

this confirm the same problem I have with my van where the ac tech put water in my system after he vacuum. As a scam to get me to keep returning the particles is more likely rust from the flex plate where as mines show small rust spots.

[@scottsatkowiak2347]

I am trying to help a dood with same issue. He had the compressor replaced a year ago and it worked intermittently ever since.

[@scottsatkowiak2347]

I like your Red Cap shirt!

[@charliemagoo7943]

Does that system have a compressor control valve? Most ac systems engage the clutch at all times and control the piston stroke

[@thomask4836]

That system was probably wet. They make test kits for the refrigerant. I wonder if the system was opened and it didn't get pulled down sometime in the past.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Anything is possible. This vehicle was sitting apparently with a blown engine for a number of years. Possibly it was disassembled and left sitting with the system open

[@vw_mods_4711]

My mrs Volvo was the same was left open to the elements for 3 years. I put a new condenser and filter dryer on it and it needed 15 hours on the vacuum to get the moisture down below 200 microns. You won’t see the moisture content using those analog gauges you need a digital vacuum gauge and set up in an app to graph the vacuum progress.

[@bektoshfozylov4304]

Good job Kenny, I have a question / What reason for the evaporator freezing up? I really want this answer, Help me, please Kenny. Thanks

[@TheUltimate65]

Looks like i have the same problem, iits hapoend short time after i take a service of the system, vacum, refill the system, i have 45 psi on lowpresure and 150 psi on the high presure side, works vel fore a wil, bit no its the lowpresure pipe not cold more, but the highside pipe have temprature, i have still the same presure in low and high side

[@Wannagobackto1980]

Do you think this could be what is going on in my wife's Five Hundred? Been having some issues with it for a few weeks now. It cooled great today in the late morning but after a while, it just blew out HOT HUMID air. Wouldnt even work with defrost it seemed like. I am so frustrated cause all this stuff is supposed to be new and replaced in 2021. The compressor can be heard clicking in and out and it would make the motor surge when you sit at a light or put it in reverse. I was wondering what your take is on it. Cause like I said it cooled great today and then just conked out. I would appreciate it.

[@chriss4365]

Mine does this after the truck sits overnight it will cycle off and on for a few minutes before finally staying on.

[@PermianPanther]

Awesome!!

[@Csankalpa2014jeddah]

I have a problem in my bus in the night time is good cool but morning after 8:00 am no cool what is the problem sir...

[@josephmelville1]

I just had this same issue on my nissan nv350

[@coarsegrind]

Did the new txv have adjuster on the end? When I install them I try to check and adjust the superheat by turning that screw in or out. In gives more superheat and out gives you less.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

That was preset. Thanks for watching 🔧

[@joegrochowski669]

new sub, great vid, when do you ad pag oil, just did a evacuate and recharge but did not think about oil. there were no parts replaced just very low, empty on refrigeran, did hold vacuum for 45minutes and took recharge, thanks again

[@1776FreedomNow]

i have a 94 civic. it has a Dual AC pressure switch (detects high and low pressure). is there a way to bench test the pressure switch with a vacuum pump/gauge? the service manual doesnt have any specs for bench testing the switch.

[@ichigo72179]

Now I know how to get to my expansion valve on a 2015 altima 3.5L there's no cold air but compressor engage and the low pressure gauge stays low all the time

[@oldbiker9739]

easy in no such thing , man that's so true .

[@noname2490]

I replaced my Snap-on alan tools and replaced them all with Mac Tools R.B.R.T. drivers because of rounding off even on good parts.

[@jimmyraythomason1]

The low side should have gone into a vacuum if the TXV was stuck closed. The high side would go up but should not have pegged out. Usually if the high side goes that high it is a lack of air flow over the condenser, either from a faulty fan or a plugged condenser.. Tip; always use an anti-seize on the TXV bolts.

[@topher8634]

High side will increase with a failed TXV especially if it is completely closed up. It is essentially a restriction. Liquid stacks up in the condenser and with nowhere to go high discharge is the result. It also depends on where manufacturers put the high side port. If it is in the Liquid line between cond and evap you will not see high pressure. If it is in the hot gas line between comp and cond you will see high pressure. Hope this helps.

[@ask5578]

Seeing how fouled the inside of that TXV was could that have resulted from using the typical Walmart brand or AutoZone/Advanced Auto recharge bottles that also contain other ingredients such as sealant and other additives....

[@ELEVOPR]

Can you spray some WD-40 on this Torx Screws and letting them sit so the WD-40 can penateate some before trying to unloosen them? Or would rhat interfere with the Unit since its not AC oil?

[@salahalanzi7049]

Well for using a vacuum during when you fill the refrigerator is a most right ?

[@stevesisniegas]

good video. i have a Subaru Legacy 03, and i have a problem with the AC, it is run good with cold air and sudendly start blowing hot air , i check the compresor is good , the relay is good too, probably i have to replace the valve

[@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri]

So did you replace it. Update

[@paradigmshift9772]

May you please tell me how you knew it was the expansion valve and not the pressure switch. I am having this issue. Thank you.

[@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri]

Were you able to determine the issue? What did you do

[@topher8634]

Pressure switch usually prevents clutch from pulling in altogether. Sometimes it will be intermittent. If system has verified correct charge (by connecting guages) you can jumper there two pins together and leave fan on high. If you don't evap will freeze. You can also just lightly tap on the switch. That usually will cause a weak switch to show itself.

[@paradigmshift9772]

@@topher8634 amazing!! Thank you!!

[@formekinetics691]

Thought the txv receives high pressure gas and changes to a low pressure liquid....heat from evap changes to a low pressure gas...back to the compressor.

[@kaasym1]

Do you have a video like this for a 13 grand cherokee cause my ac need work

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Unfortunately, I don't. It's the same principle for all vehicles, though. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@coldfinger459sub0]

👍

[@ppeters480]

Did you replace all the orings when doing the expansion valve, the ones on the lines too or no ?

[@dhanlaxmiautoelectricnatio3017]

Good

[@JWRhyneJr]

Thanks for sharing this education material. I am interested in learning to perform the refrigerant recovery process . At 75 years old & medically retired, I cannot find anyone to recover refrigerant from old ac, fridges & freezers! Can you suggest how I get started? I am obout to by gauges, vacuum pump & some related items to try to do my old vehicles maintenance stuff.

[@dannypalmer7701]

Learned alot,!

[@daveunbranded]

Can you imagine you didn't get that torx out?

[@estrada430]

Is there a reason why the mechanic would leave that flat pin with two holes that looks like the letter Y just laying inside my hood? I just had the evaporator replaced.

[@adrianTNT]

What could be the problem if the AC only blows cold when I rev it past 2000 RPM ? Air is warm below 2000 rpm. System was charged with freon. Also on cold start, if car sat in a cold underground parking, it starts blowing cold air right away, but if it sit in the sun and I start it, it blows warm air unless I rev it for a while over 2000 rpm. This second part might indicate a sensor problem ?

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Could be a sensor or blend door problem. Let me know what you figure out. Keep wrenching 🔧

[@adrianTNT]

@@WrenchingWithKenny mecanic changed the compressor with a new one, it works, that was probably it, because previous compressor was second hand and it worked around 150 000 km on my car. If it lasted less I would think the filter / drier might be clogged and wearing out the compressor.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

The drier might be clogged, which would shut down the compressor. It wouldn't wear the compressor out.

[@LesReeves]

I realise this is an old video so my comment may not be read ,Here in AUS every time we recharge a system the TX valve as we call it is replaced as a preventive measure Cheers.

[@larryreno8293]

It’s commonly referred to as a TXV (thermal expansion valve)in the automotive industry.

[@topher8634]

TX Valve, TXV, TEV are all common acronyms for the entire HVAC/R industry.

[@snipersxxs]

I have replaced the evop charge the sys still blowing hot air do you think that's valve has to do wit it

[@rinserepeat2877]

Hey Kenny, like a dumb dumb, I power-washed the front lower half of condenser, (UGG, will NEVER DO that again)...anyway, there was a VTEC issue previously and oil all over the passenger side of engine (03 honda accord 4cyl) So, fixed that. And replaced a shredded harmonic balancer and crank seal...getting to my question. If I damaged the condenser, are there other things I should do as well as a result? Clutch is not locked up, but not engaging either. Hot air flow in cabin. Both fans work. At this point because the system's has high and low sensors on condenser could have ohm'ed out, I have to 'run ac' to keep fans cooling engine bay (hot air) to keep from over heating, which it is not doing but could if I dont turn fans on manually by commanding AC on in cabin. Again, a new or good used condenser with dryer, is my first step? Either way I will vacuum and recharge. Think I will test the compressor, a destroyed condenser which could have created an arc or killed the ac compressor/clutch. There is pressure in the line. but yet to hook up gauges for an actual read. Your video is excellent for this, Thank you!!! And i may open at firewall to peek at expansion valve, before I recharge for any visual contaminants. Honda's do not like running with out AC system working. Throwing CEL and p0442 (small leak in vacuum actuator)...any other suggestions as to what other part a destroyed condenser may have caused? I really think the compressor does not need replacing, but it is a 2003.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

@rinserepeat12877 Usually, the fans won't come on until high side pressure USUALLY reaches a certain point. I would verify what the ambient & coolant temperature actually is, using a scanner. It's possible that you may have buggered the ambient temperature sensor. Keep us posted. More importantly, keep wrenching 🔧

[@jorgepadilla4137]

Mr. Kenny I have a similar problem with my Toyota Corolla 2011 LE. I took it to the mechanic and he told me it was a low pressure from my Compressor. But after whatching your video it made me think it could be the same thing from your video. My problem is when I'm in the highway the airconditioner works fine but when I'm in the city in stop and go traffic the air stops blewing cold every once in while and then starts again once I maintain a steady speed. Would you have any idea what it could be?

[@johnguilfoyle3073]

I'm unfamiliar with the term "Pin." I would assume that the gauge indicator is maxing out and hitting the limit pin. Is this correct?

[@Sunsetime2]

probably spikes

[@prohomevideos]

I had this exact problem with my system and doing this replacement did not fix the problem. Ended up being a faulty low pressure switch.

[@ricardofierro7041]

I have a 1993 Chevrolet suburban, 94,000 miles. My A/c compressor started rattling and the A/c stopped cooling. I took it to a repair shop and they replaced the compressor and other A/c components. It lasted 3 days before the compressor started rattling Again, BUT it was still Cooling. I took it back and the shop replaced the A/c compressor and whatever , that repair lasted 4 days before the compressor started rattling again-- still cooling. Took it back , now I’m on my third compressor. It lasted 3 months and it’s RATTLING AGAIN . Looks like I’m taking back again ( 04-20-2023 ) . Regardless WHAT could be the problem. Basically the only time it stopped cooling was with the factory compressor. Thanks

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Sounds like there is debris in the system that is ruining the new compressors. Did they flush the components initially? Post this thread to our Facebook page Wrenching with Kenny. It will be more visible to me & other members for follow-up. Thanks for watching

[@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri]

Update please

[@nezukokamado4550]

Sounds like u need to replace the condenser and any valve it have. Probably there are old debris from your broken AC compressor that got into the hose system maybe clogging up the condenser or valves. So keep replacing the AC compressor won’t do any good.

[@atiqkhan6683]

Looks like you have a compressor that's on its way out. Seen that black stuff on other worn out compressors

[@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri]

Will this fix it or you think it will fail again

[@topher8634]

Reminded me of the Ford black death of the 90s.

[@farrellnuszjr9216]

Did you use anti lock back on those bolts

[@soobigautoworkllc7914]

I have similar problems any thoughts I’m on 2019 Hyundai in a minute cold then start blowing hot

[@magicone9327]

That dark colored crap in the expansion valve could be from the pump wear down!

[@alanearnest6040]

I've had bad experiences with aftermarket expansion valves,always use oe

[@bekire2215]

What happened?

[@alanearnest6040]

@@bekire2215 they either buzz or pressure fluctuate wildly

[@bekire2215]

@@alanearnest6040 i had replaced the expansion valve. still not solved my problem. how did u solve urs?

[@sameerthodika7917]

I'm facing hot air blowing for few minutes especially in summer. Usually it will cool after I manually reset AC button. Is this is same problem?

[@michaelzernie7092]

After I replaced my rear condenser, I get this kind of hissing sound from the rear. It stays cold. Not losing any pressure. Not sure what's the issue.

[@Ron-oe7hg]

That sound is freon moving through the system. If it's not a steady hiss, it's low.

[@justvinx7657]

Hi ... Kenny I have a 97 4runner and the freon went out and it was blowing warm air so I took it to a mechanic and he recharge it, but it was cold for a couple of days and went warm again so i took it back and the mechanic tested for leak, but it seem to be fine no leak was detected so he determine it must be the ac condenser under the glove box for the 3rd generation 4runners and so he replace the ac condenser and the expansion valve, but now when I turn on the ac it didn't blow many cold air and we trace the coldness of the freon going through the pipes and found out that the freon was only getting to the expansion valve , but will not pass through to the ac condenser so the air was only blowing cool, not cold and every time I turn on the ac the compressor would turn on and off repeatedly just turn on and off on and off after it turns on for a couple of seconds than it would turn off again will you tel me what is wrong with my ac system I needed help, but couldn't find anyone knowledgeable around here and the sshop wants and arm and a leg for them to just look at it. please help me to get my ac running correct again.

[@aldovera3789]

Sounds like your system is low on refrigerant. The guy who diagnosed a bad evaporator and replaced it, is responsible to give you a working system.

[@neutrodyne]

He needs to put gages on first and see what the pressures look like and go from there. If the expansion valve were bad (not opening up) you would get a very high reading on the high side and a very low one on the low side. There could also be other areas of trouble. You will need to find someone who understands how the AC operates in an automobile. Some people don't even evacuate the system before charging it up which can leave air and moisture in the system causing trouble.

[@nezukokamado4550]

This sound like my overcharge AC on my Lexus RX. I over filled it. And the compressor turn cycle on and off on and off and ac is not getting cold. I empty out a little of overcharged Freon. It work fine now. No more on off on off. The person that charge your AC either didn’t check the amount Freon put in or he don’t know what he’s doing. If AC Freon is low , AC is blowing cool air instead of cold air and it makes a funny loud noise from the engine when compressor kicks on.

[@tpcoachfix]

The unit under your glove box is an evaporator not a condenser.

[@SANTIAGOFLORES-lj2gi]

I got a f150 2009 5.4L got everything new the compressor, condenser, fan clutch, evaporation valve literally everything when I’m driving it gets cold but when it comes to an idle or I stop at the light it gets cool not cold any suggestions

[@bwagenberg]

How do you attach Harbor Freight gauges without damaging the high and low Schrader valves when you screw them down?

[@JamesAnderson-mr2sg]

full ccw on connecting slowly cw until they open and then stop

[@joseturcio361]

i have a 2010 civic and the car ac blows cold when i have it in the garage but when i leave it outside in the sun it only blows air. the clutch kicks on, fans turn on and relays are new. can this be a bad valve as well or the condenser

[@smerk429]

Hi brother thanks for your videos I'm a subscriber. Question please... I have a 1995 Lexus LS 400. The radiator fan is not activating. It does work because i tested it. I disconnected the connector that's connected to the receiver drier and the radiator fan turns on and stays on continuously the whole time. But when I reconnect the connector the radiator fan turns off. I'm trying to fix the fan so that it turns on when I turn on my air conditioner but the fan does not turn on when I turn on the AC. I feel like it has something to do with that connection but I'm not sure. Do you think I might have a bad sensor that's connected to the receiver drier? Thanks. Anybody knowledgeable please reply soon.

[@linuxxr]

ice in the system will do that it causes carbon when its compressed