Wrenn Railways Class 8F: Repair Request

[@stevekovoc3939]

I love these old Hornby Dublo/Wrenn locos. As you say, they definitely have a mind of their own sometimes. Every single loco that I have from both manufacturers behave differently from one another, almost like actual locos. They're fairly easy to work on and are built like tanks. They also tend to run fairly nicely for their age with minor work done to them.

[@davidford2169]

Absolutely agree.👍I have a few, from approx 1972 and they run perfectly.

[@tracynation2820]

Another excellent video. Hello again from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.

[@gregoryhale2202]

Wished you live here on the Gold Coast, Queensland, Australia...........you are brilliant at bringing locomotives back to life. Cheers Greg

[@markroberts6491]

Very much enjoyed this. Talking about the paint and it's propensity to chip, back in the 1970s one of my modelling heros was a guy called David Jenkinson, one of the finest modellers of the LMS there has been. Although most of his stock was finescale kit-built this body on his scratch built chassis was good enough for him. He did say however that the original Dublo paint job was a scale 5" thick and removing said paint exposed a wealth of fine rivet detail. Keep them coming!

[@monham5041]

Great to see someone pull one of these motors apart. I recently got a Hornby Dublo West Country Class Barnstaple loco that was a non runner and serviced the motor myself. Mine now runs too. The brushes in from the side is a much better idea that the Triang X04 motor type brushes I think. Stay safe. Monique from Brisbane

[@williamscates3915]

strange you say that, i love the X04 for its simplicity. Non-worn bearings and a good greasing keeps them beautiful. I find the controllability quite good too. A good dublo challenge is always fun, and they're built to last too, if a bit too over the top for their job

[@MrSnooze]

Good to hear you got your Barnstaple running Mon. Best regards to you

[@johnmassey7687]

nicely done, good to see older locos restored to running condition

[@44662dc]

Cracking job on that old model well done and most enjoyable watch.

[@forrestrobin2712]

Found this video again from two years ago ! Couldn’t resist watching it again. Good to see the old layout again even though I love the new one ! I have a Wrenn Clun Castle and a Dublo 2-rail 8F with this style of motor, but now I’m currently running a 3-rail layout I’ve acquired a Dublo Bristol Castle and 8F 48158 which both have the old style half inch motor and I must say I prefer it to the ringfield. Possibly a bit less powerful, but they are very quiet and after a remag only pull around 380ma. I wonder why they changed to the ringfield?

[@roberthill6216]

Thanks for the video Bill. I only have two wrenn locomotives, a class 08 and a class 20.

[@gregoryarchbold8043]

Hi Bill, I have a number of Wrenn/Hornby locos with ringfield motors and I have sometimes had the same problem with “lumpy running” after I’ve serviced them. I’ve noticed that the end of the brushes inevitably have a curved face to them after wearing on the commutator. Therefore I try and return the brushes in exactly the same position as they came out so that the brush end curvature is in the same position prior to their removal. If still lumpy, I rotate the brushes 180 degrees Seems to work for me. Really love your videos by the way, and looking forward to the newest one. Cheers, Greg.

[@Gleis-cy3jq]

Nice vid ! super smart layout ! Thx for share . Regards from Mid-Germany ...

[@DaiElsan]

Loving "the shove into the shed"...... more in a minute....The platform extension/modification is looking good. That Wrenn motor is a museum piece. So much motor for what it has to do and so complicated. Nevertheless another loco brought back from the brink. Great work Bill.

[@petey6415]

These loco's are built to last, not as detailed as modern loco's however, at least you can pick them up without fear of everything dropping off! I have many Wrenn and Hornby Dublo loco's. They are repairable to. Just look at the 3 rail system, ok, not realistic but by god well built and durable. 57 years since the 3 rail system left Binns Road in Liverpool. I have boxes of it. Just sorting the space to set it up. Take a look at Ronald Dodds KZbin channel, amazing.

[@DaiElsan]

@@petey6415 Dont get me wrong. I acknowledge Wrenn's place in model Railway history. I was just commenting on the motor design. I've seen 17,500hp 240v DC motors running but they were built to do serious work. That motor in that loco was in my opinion over engineered. It stole space out of the cab. Yes in the day the detail on the loco was very good, so why couldn't they think of a less complicated more compact motor that didn't detract from the otherwise great design. ( just reading Wrenn bought out all Hornby designs after Triang took over. So that motor we see may have been a Hornby original.) My first Triang transit back in the 60s had a 0-6-0 tank engine in it. The motor in that while still encroaching into the cab was way smaller than the Wrenn motor, and it lasted for years despite the abuse it got. A much simpler design and did the job perfectly well. Just saying.

[@oobill]

It's the same as the motor in my Dublo Cardiff Castle so yes it is a Hornby or Meccano design. I wouldn't say it's complicated really it's actually quite a simplistic ringfield design. It's just crude, too long and temperamental. When it works as it should it's actually a good motor.

[@petey6415]

@@oobill I've never found them to temperamental, unless you alter the brass bearing at cab of the motor...... I've spent many hours fiddling around with both Hornby Dublo/Wrenn for that horror! However, with patience the bearing can be adjusted to work well. Just reguires time/patience and a methodical approach.

[@mrg6103]

You should show how to upgrade the couplers on these older locos.

[@joebeasant5056]

Seem to remember that the separate bush on the rear of the motor is an Oilite type, it holds oil in the material. Great video.

[@richardw64]

Hi Bill. I just discovered your site today. I'm not an owner or enthusiast of all things rail but i do enjoy watching shows like yours. Good job on the maintenance of this loco, by the way. I wouldn't be worried about the noise issue at all. I'm sure the original was a lot noisier. Best of luck with future videos.

[@stonehartfloydfan]

Seen a couple of Wrenn models come up for sale here in New Zealand and have always been a bit tentative in getting one. They look very nice for their age.

[@7649angel]

Great fun! Thank you

[@ciaranburke3243]

Good job bill, I've always had an interest in wrenn locos until i came upon the same loco in a shop in Blackpool a few years ago, at 300 pounds I backed off swiftly 😀

[@bigmac60]

Another great video

[@billbannister8129]

Very informative. Thank you

[@MrSnooze]

Hello Bill, I've had a couple of those rear bearings work loose. Once they do I find a little loctite stops it happening again. Good to see it running again. All the best to you

[@oobill]

I actually think this is a manufacturing error by Wrenn. On my Dublo Cardiff Castle the threaded outer part of the bearing is pinched in to hold the insert in place. On this one the little indents on the insert were there but not pinched in. I wasn't going to attempt it as it was probably done by a special tool in a bench press or something. It would be interesting to see other Wrenn and Dublo locos to compare.

[@garethparkin9498]

I love Wrenn locomotives I just bought a City of Stoke-on-Trent love it but they can be very expensive to buy so I assembled mine from spare parts 🙂

[@henrybest4057]

Where do you get Wrenn/Dublo spares from? I've a Wrenn R1 (0-6-0 tank) that needs new pickups. They're as rare as hens' teeth!

[@garethparkin9498]

@@henrybest4057 Ebay

[@TheDaf95xf]

Awesome 🤩

[@GreatNate]

I love these videos.

[@ModelRailwaysUnlimited]

Hi good work, couple of ideas for you, you might try backing the brush pressure off a little that helped mine no end. Suspect the magnet could do with re-magnetizing especially if its been out of the motor housing at all. Do you have access to one? Let me know I could do it for you

[@markroberts6491]

Bill did remagnetize the magnet and he also mentioned that he adjusted the brush pressure, although this was not shown in the video.

[@ModelRailwaysUnlimited]

@@markroberts6491 Hi Mark ok well that's covered then.

[@oobill]

Er.... I did re-magnetise it and I did mention adjusting the brush springs. Only I increased the pressure. Too little pressure can cause lumpy running.

[@ModelRailwaysUnlimited]

@@oobill why do I get the feeling my offer to assist has not been well received. Ah well I'm delighted you have everything covered.

[@keithedmunds7536]

another interesting video i remember a while ago you were looking for a body for a loco i suggest you google elaines trains all good quality secondhand often cheaper than ebay very reliable i dont get much off ebay mainly now elaine she has lots of loco bodies locos and wagons coaches im sure you will find something she specialises hornby lima etc she has a link to dave angel again the type of locos we prefer good iuck your repairs have helped me so keep showing the ringfields etc

[@mickking4834]

Another great video bill. Cant say i like the huge lump of motor protruding into and past the cab tho. Wouldnt be my choice tbh.

[@scottmcneil1150]

Hi Bill I was delighted when I saw you were working on this. However the very same model I’m trying to resurrect has an electrical Problem, and despite buying new springs and brushes I’m afraid my resoldering efforts haven’t quite cut it. It did have power before I started working on it but was very temperamental. The wheels run very smoothly. I’m reluctant to buy a new motor they’re £40 on eBay but I fear I may have to if she’s ever to run.

[@gcmet1063]

There is a company called Scalespeed who can rewind the armature which will get your motor working like new . I’ve used them , they do a good job . David .

[@oobill]

Does the motor run if you apply power directly to the brush holders?

[@scottmcneil1150]

Thanks for replying, Bill. Well, the wiring was a bit loose looking so I tried to re solder it but I think the resistor has been compromised somehow and the integrity of the conductivity has been compromised. As I said there was intermittent power getting through initially the brushes and springs were a bit shagged so I got new ones but it has remained powerless since I started remedial works. I think it is the wiring and resistor that might be the weak link.‘I’ll persevere with it. Would the company you mention have resistors ? I don’t even know what the resistor is for.

[@oobill]

@@scottmcneil1150 The resistor is really a suppressor to prevent interference with older TVs and certain radio frequencies. The loco will work just fine without it and unless you have a very old telly or listen to long wave radio I wouldn't worry about it. Replacements can be found if you hunt around on line. But to test the loco just take a wire from the pickup direct to the brush holder and see if it works. If it does then it suggests your wiring loom is dodgy and it's as likely to be a broken wire as anything else. If it doesn't work then there may be an issue with the armature. A multimeter would be your friend with an issue like this.

[@scottmcneil1150]

@@oobill is the wiring loom you refer to part of the resistor ?’it does look a tad unravelled. The armature looks reasonable. I’ll give it another go. I agree a multimeter would be useful to familiarise myself with having seen how effectively you demonstrate it’s usefulness. I’ll give it an hour or two again on Sunday and see how i go. Thanks Bill

[@lesliebanks3277]

Hi first off I really enjoy your videos. I would like to ask your advice, I have a Triang R 357 cal 31 which was given the body is is ok, but the motor is completely damaged beyond repair. Can you still get the motors for these or is there another motor I can put in it. Thank you.

[@oobill]

A complete replacement motor can be had on ebay but you'd be cheaper buying another loco. The motor in the R751 Class 37 will also fit. You can also get parts on ebay and from Peters Spares

[@derekmccullock4482]

I don't have a magnetizer so do I need to buy one.

[@johnstephens649]

Great to see you working on an old Wren/Dublo and I have a few and at least one needs a service so good to get to know about them. Question at a total tangent though. What is the make of clear guitar on the wall behind you? I think Danelectro but a mate disagrees but he is not sure what it is!?

[@oobill]

it's a Yamaha SLG200S

[@cameronpatterson1045]

HI Bill I have a Hornby class 91 with stiff gears can you help me please

[@oobill]

Email me details and pics. Address in the About tab on my channel.

[@gregoryarchbold8043]

Hi Bill, What spray did you use to free up the wheels?

[@oobill]

WD40 Contact Cleaner

[@SeatedViper]

Hello! I found your channel a few days ago, and I've looked at a few of your videos. Excellent stuff! I have a little query for you, if you don't mind. I have a 1970's Hornby ALBERT HALL, one which had the exhaust sound activated by a scraper on the rear axle of the tender. The locomotive runs fine on the straight and on most curves, but it does not like Peco Streamline Code 100 pointwork. It either jams or derails. I have checked the back to back measurements by using a Kadee gauge. I'm wondering if the flanges on these old wheels might be the problem. Any advice, please?

[@oobill]

I'm not familiar with Peco points but I file the frogs deeper on my Hornby points to avoid older locos stalling and stumbling on them because of the larger flanges. Also you probably want to set your back to back a bit narrower than modern standards as the old wheels are slightly wider and flanges thicker. On my older locos the wheel spacing is 13.6mm between the inside of the flanges.

[@SeatedViper]

@@oobill Thank you!

[@gregoryarchbold8043]

Hi Bill, Just wondering you choose Molybdenum grease over Lithium (white) grease?

[@dialwright]

Did you spot and recover the extra bearing ball, residing on the towel til the end of the video?

[@oobill]

Yes

[@bertiewooster3326]

You cannot beat HD 3 rail and Wrenn tough powerful locos I have about 60 !!!

[@TheAntisocialTrain]

Nice one, those wrenn locos do indeed have similar motors to the Dublo. In any case, I have a triang pannier (so is this the correct video to comment this on?), The motor works independently, the pick up arrangements work independently, but when wired up all together the loco doesn't have any signs of life. Any ideas? I really don't want to have to replace anything unless I can absolutely help it. Hope you have an amazing day!

[@williamscates3915]

firstly is it shorting? secondly try to power the loco with the motor but don't connect the brush clip, just apply power to the brushes, then you can isolate the issue to maybe the soldering to the capacitor but hard to hazard a guess. So long as it is oiled you know you're not damaging it

[@oobill]

Sounds like a short. First thing to check would be the insulating sleeve on the positive side of the brush retaining clip. Using a multimeter is the key to sorting an issue like this out.

[@TheAntisocialTrain]

Not having a multimeter isn't going i help. I've gotten round i checking the parts you guys have suggested as best as I can, and nothing. :Update:;I wired up a separate motor, and it runs on battery power applied directly to the bushes,nbut not from the track, so I think the chassis has a short. Incedentally, the original motor I wired up to a (confirmed working) chassis, and it has the same problem

[@TheAntisocialTrain]

Furthermore, after some fiddling about, I have it to the stage where it can run without being wired in , but the motor is in situ. When power is applied directly without being wired in it runs, but if wired in it sparks massively, I don't even hear a hum. It's definitely not something to do with the motor or chassis, just that dang wire.

[@johngibson4641]

Your engine shed is like Doctor Who's tardus hahha

[@gregoryarchbold8043]

Sorry, “Why do you choose to use Molybdenum grease over Lithium grease?”.

[@oobill]

Either or really. To be honest silicon grease is probably a better choice.

[@wellchuffedrailways]

As a Wrenn lover I find the motors in these 8f, Castle, Southern Pacifics by far the worst of the Wrenn motors.