OOBill

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@garagewindowrailway Күн бұрын

Bill, I have had a similar experience with a Bachmann split chassis 57xx. In my case, the smoke from the motor was fluff and carbon build up in the commutator slots, cured with a squoosh and a fine plastic pin!

@thestocktonflyer4059 Күн бұрын

You can do it bill 😊 great video 😊 keep up the good work 👏

@branwellbronte8663 Күн бұрын

OOBill Having serviced several dozen of these Hornby Dublo 08's over the years - the problem you were coming up against lay with the free movement of the brushes in the brush tubes & the alignment of the brush tension springs. With the motor top housing removed & placed on its side, the test is to see if the brush will 'fall through' the brush holder tube. it has to be really free to do so as the slightest undulation in the commutator face will cause the brush to rise & then stick in the tube if there is any old oil or dirt present. Equally important is the alignment of the brush spring, it has to lay centrally across the cut out in the outer end of the brush tube - watching your video the the tail of the spring on the negative side (nearest to the camera) was very distorted & way out of true. Hope this helps next time you come across one of these fine locos.

@user-uk8jr6zc9l Күн бұрын

I thought at the time that the motor spun slow when you tested it with the 9V battery but chalked it up to either a battery being low or camera frame rate. It is a plus that you can get parts for these locomotives from Bachmann that is not something available here in the States. As usual your methodical search for the answer wins out. Great video, Jersey Bill

@MarkInLA Күн бұрын

Billy-OO, enjoy the crackling and the thunder. I love those rare times. Kinda let's us know sompin' REALLY STRIKING is occurring over mother Earth, perhaps telling us to WAKE UP and realize, as comic Sarah Silverman put it so simply toward the "fussing and fighting, "We're on a planet in outer space !"

@rallyman_4 Күн бұрын

jings crivens help me boab!

@allanmason7544 2 күн бұрын

looking forward to the next one bill

@melanierhianna 2 күн бұрын

You are right about drilling through the PCB. If it’s multilayer there may be a through hole connection which drilling can destroy.

@melanierhianna 2 күн бұрын

Again you can work around it by soldering top and bottom and using the wire to provide the through hole connection.

@Itsonlymeee1 2 күн бұрын

Just put a coreless motor in it.

@gordonbruce2416 2 күн бұрын

Typical Scottish summer weather then?

@bigmac60 2 күн бұрын

Beware the magic smoke

@astolatpere11 2 күн бұрын

I feel like one of the guys in orange safety jackets on your T-shirt watching you work. A scenario as old as time.

@goddam9925 2 күн бұрын

Nice thunder storm in the background !! 😮

@stevechapman-s1q 2 күн бұрын

great work Bill

@stephendavies6949 2 күн бұрын

Hi Bill. As with all good stories, it's exciting to have a "plot twist"...

@stephendavies6949 2 күн бұрын

And so it begins (again!). I won't spoil the ending.... 😮

@user-pf3ye6yi9n 2 күн бұрын

It will work better if you apply solder to both parts of the joint separately by heating with the iron then applying the solder, then bring them together and apply the iron. Don't carry solder to the work on the iron tip.

@oobill 2 күн бұрын

The pickups are riveted to the plastic underframe so you can't heat them enough it will melt the plastic. You have to introduce molten solder and the wire together to the pickup quickly or else buy a new underframe with ready attached wires. The wires will have been soldered to the pickups prior to riveting to the underframe during manufacture. It's a common problem with soldering in modern locos. PCBs can take the heat but plastic parts like underframes, motor casings etc can't.

@user-pf3ye6yi9n 2 күн бұрын

@@oobill Can you put a croc clip on the pickup next to the terminal as a heatsink to stop heat travelling down it?

@melanierhianna 2 күн бұрын

@@oobillin which case add some flux to the rivet. The reason you are advised not to carry the solder on the iron to the joint is that the roisin evaourates away with the heat. If you treat it like non cored solder you are fine.

@melanierhianna 2 күн бұрын

@@oobillAlso it is ironic but a hotter heat is better if the surrounding might melt as it is faster and gives less chance for the heat to spread as you try and heat up the part.

@dnealuk 2 күн бұрын

@@melanierhianna Yes. For fine, delicate work you need a larger iron. Heat it more quickly - job done and the croc clip sinks it away before it notices!

@jonathanlake6053 2 күн бұрын

If only Hornby ran a spares website like Bachmann.

@stephendavies6949 2 күн бұрын

Lendons of Cardiff are a decent stockist. Otherwise, it's "roll the dice" on eBay.

@petersmith4455 2 күн бұрын

hi Bill, great job, at least you can get spares from Bachmann, the clowns at hornby offer a pathetic selection, and don't have proper back up like we had in the Triang days

@granddadtony 2 күн бұрын

A boost for us mere mortals when your wires fall off and you forget things! Good video Bill

@tankmicr00man 2 күн бұрын

Patience is a virtue! Good work so far Bill, enjoying this extended story!

@bryantan863 2 күн бұрын

Hey there Bill, I would recommend you go and watch Sam's Trains' video of replacing the Bachmann 3 pole motor with a coreless motor

@DrAl60103 2 күн бұрын

I'd strip the motor - it may just need the commutator cleaning.

@user-uk8jr6zc9l 2 күн бұрын

It is a shame that an aftermarket company doesn't produce old Bachmann parts similar to automobile parts. You can theoretically build a 1957 Chevy from aftermarket parts, and I think a plethora of parts are needed for old Bachmann's and other brands. From burnt motors, split gears, broken shells and the list goes on. I guess that will never happen, but I can dream at least. Anyway, nice kitbashing of a sort and great little video, Jersey Bill

@PeterJewell2 2 күн бұрын

It happens with Triang/Hornby and Lima parts. Not too many years ago it was almost impossible to get spare X04 brushes, and then Peter's Spares started manufacturing them. It is probably a case of supply and demand. Bachmann have produced so many different mechanisms that supporting them all is a tall order. We can but hope!

@alantoms3263 2 күн бұрын

Very interesting Bill. If it fits, then runs acceptably smoothly I would call it a success rather than a bodge! There are quite a few options out there, perhaps some others of the Hornby range, and those of Bachmann, with a few little tweaks. Sam took to using various-sized coreless motors he picked up from China - centre of the modelling universe of course! - and 3D printed mounts to help make them work. Al.

@PeterJewell2 2 күн бұрын

It can be both a bodge and a success! In fact, a bodge isn't really a bodge unless it works!

@timcalvert1658 2 күн бұрын

Bill, I have done several triang xo4 conversions using a variety of Chinese motors, you can adapt the shafts using brass tube, most motors come with a 1mm or 1.5mm shaft, I can for example fit a x04 pinion using a 1mm id brass tube with a 2mm od and drilling out the brass pinion tom2.5mm and using a 2.5mm od tube with 2mm Id, use loctite bearing lock to fix the tube adaptors, a quick heat with a lighter will release the bond, far better than cyano which is a bit permanent

@rossco29 3 күн бұрын

Any model railway exhibition updates coming up

@markweightman3805 3 күн бұрын

Hi Bill, Tramfabriek sell coreless motors with shaft adaptors, basically brass tube, so you can select the correct shaft diameter required. Also most of their motors have screw holes already present, and dimensions are listed so you can find the correct size.. I've done a couple of locos like this and it works pretty well... 😁.

@oobill 2 күн бұрын

Thanks for that I wasn't aware of them. Will definitely try out some of their stuff at some point.

@StMaryChurchModelRailway 3 күн бұрын

Excellent job Bill. Better than nothing.

@johngibson4641 3 күн бұрын

Hi Bill ,, I have pulled apart a few of the electric exterior side mirror motors or as you guys call them "wing mirrors". They have a small electric motor just like that 1 but cant be sure on the shaft size... Cheers from John in Australia

@Pete-s2z 3 күн бұрын

Compelling viewing as always Bill. Without knowing the dimensions you're working with I can't be sure but I've successfully fitted can motors with 1.5mm shafts to many Tri-ang chassis using the original worm on a piece of 3/32 OD brass tube. It's not a perfect fit but threadlocker takes up the clearances OK and they all run just fine.

@dansmodelrailways7886 3 күн бұрын

Bill your using Bi carb of soda instead of baking powder! . Do they work the same? As i’ve only ever used baking powder.

@oobill 2 күн бұрын

It's the bicarbonate that reacts with the glue as far as I understand. I use Baking Soda or Bicarb of Soda not Baking Powder. There are other things and less bicarbonate in baking powder but either works.

@dj_efk 3 күн бұрын

If it works and won’t break easily again - and it’s the best chance the thing has of another lease of life, it’s not a bodge.

@PeterJewell2 2 күн бұрын

It is still a bodge. Bill has made other parts fit and work, but they clearly aren't 'right'. Bodge isn't a negative.

@andrewrice6596 3 күн бұрын

Well done Bill.

@stevechapman-s1q 3 күн бұрын

brilliant job Bill

@hornbyman4474 3 күн бұрын

don't copy me

@DaiElsan 3 күн бұрын

Bill, drill out that worm gear so that you can plug the hole with a suitable bit of brass bar. (Solder it into position) then bore out a new centre to the shaft size you need, interference fit. Job done.

@oobill 3 күн бұрын

Not as easy as it sounds. Drilling a worm would need to be done with a very high degree of accuracy that I don't have the tools to do. Otherwise you'd be likely to end up with an off centre worm that will vibrate which is very bad news.

@stillstanding123 3 күн бұрын

I think its possible if you know someone with a modelling lathe where the gear is mounted in the chuck. Perhaps one of your subscribers could try it out on a spare worm gear. It seems such a frustrating barrier to your renovation.

@FayreNorthumberland 3 күн бұрын

@@oobill It can be done, i have opened out 1.5 mm worms to 2mm using a sharp drill bit in a pin vice, finished off with a broach. Slow work, but certainlt doable.

@barrytillman2818 2 күн бұрын

Yep really need a watchmakers lathe

@ModelRailwayShed 3 күн бұрын

Nice one Bill

@stillstanding123 3 күн бұрын

Perhaps i missed something but can you not drill out the brass worm to the correct shaft size or if the sgaft is undersize bush out the gear. I dont think the current plastic gear will stay meshed for long

@noland65 3 күн бұрын

As there was talk about a adapter, I guess, the shaft is too thin. So drilling out is not a solution. Regarding the shaft's boring, the required bushing is probably minimal, so any adapter or bushing will be quite brittle, while it also requires precision for correct centering. Kind of difficult, I guess… Maybe coating the shaft (in multiple layers) to add to its thickness is an option.

@oobill 3 күн бұрын

The shaft in the worm is too large. There are various options for making it fit but centering is the problem. What it would need would be a metal sleeve that could push fit onto the shaft and into the worm. I will keep the worm and old motor and experiment as if this motor is no longer available it's a fix I may have to do again.

@user-pf3ye6yi9n 3 күн бұрын

@@oobill Is there a stock brass tube with the right inside diameter for the motor shaft? If so it should be possible to drill the worm to the outside diameter and use the tube to adapt the fit. Making it all slightly undersize and heating it up in turn before fitting would make sure it was tight but otherwise a spot of superglue would do it.

@zivadivathedog9392 3 күн бұрын

You could 3D print a worm in ABS like resin to try.

@oobill 3 күн бұрын

I could? Someone else maybe could.;)

@zivadivathedog9392 3 күн бұрын

@@oobill I will investigate i believe i can the software is free and should be able to print.

@oobill 3 күн бұрын

There are several free software options and I have looked into them. Some are easier to learn than others but I'll be perfectly honest. 3D design software bores me to kingdom come. Not sure I'll ever get past the learning curve it's too much like work. And then there's a 3D printer... Maybe one day though.

@tankmicr00man 3 күн бұрын

Great solution Bill, I'm sure he will be pleased with it👍

@AaronOxfordExmouth1989 3 күн бұрын

Brilliant, adapt and overcome, the modelling mantra.

@phillipg1588 3 күн бұрын

I have an 08 class in N scale (Graham Farish with DCC sound decoder fitted), and it's a total gem of a little loco BUT it most certainly needs a "Stay Alive" fitted as it doesn't like turnout/points all that well.

@peternorris6438 3 күн бұрын

What does the baking powder do?

@oobill 3 күн бұрын

Acts as an accelerator and also forms a plastic like filler. In this case glue would have worked on its own though to be honest.

@peternorris6438 3 күн бұрын

At least you seem to have all the parts for the project

@hughoconnor9172 3 күн бұрын

Good job, so far. One gets the impression that several of the "repairs" you are asked to do are due to improper or complete absence of maintenance of the locos. Whilst there could be any number of reasons for this, basic maintenance is really a necessity for model railway running. I know you mention this occasionally but it really is a requirement.

@user-uk8jr6zc9l 3 күн бұрын

You got this, as we say in the states," a mere bag of shells", or as islanders say," Bob's your uncle". Great work and video, Jersey Bill

@timgray3491 4 күн бұрын

Looking forward to part 2 Bill

@stevechapman-s1q 4 күн бұрын

excellent work so far looking forward to part two

@ModelRailwayShed 4 күн бұрын

Hello Bill! Off to a great start with this project!!

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