WTF?! WEIRD Japanese Warhammer Hobby Products

Grim Hollow: Valikan Clans: ghostfiregaming.com/NINJ_GHVC...
Ghostfire Gaming: ghostfiregaming.com/
Ninjon PATREON: / ninjon
Ninjon MERCH: ninjon.creator-spring.com/
MY PODCAST: Trapped Under Plastic: / trappedunderplastic
Instagram: / ninj0n
GodHand Products:
Nippers: amzn.to/3Lf74qL
Sanding Sponges (BETTER version): amzn.to/3ZyKRbG
Waterproof Sanding Paper: amzn.to/3L7uvSU
Palette Sheets: amzn.to/4241vRV
ShortGrip Brush: amzn.to/421KiJ2
Brush Care Sheets: amzn.to/41YHs7o
Umbrella Games (where I buy my minis and goodies in North America!):
umbrellagames.net/ninjon
With my link: Get 15% OFF EVERYTHING, plus additional discount on MOST products!
Ninjon Dry Brush Set: store.artis-opus.com/en-us/pr...
Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl: (my brushes, also paint, primer, basing paste, etc.):
monumenthobbies.com/?ref=Ninjon
10% off your total order! Enter COUPON CODE: ninjon
Element Games - (ALL your hobby needs, UK based, ships WORLDWIDE):
elementgames.co.uk/?d=10688
Use Referral Code: JON1303 for DOUBLE STORE CREDIT CRYSTALS on your first purchase!
Red Grass Games (my mini holder & wet palette)
www.redgrassgames.com/product...
AMAZON LINKS: materials I use, no extra cost to you and they give me a bit of money as a kickback (anything you buy while starting with these links, actually!):
Magnifier Glasses (Sexy gogs): amzn.to/3O9AN2a
Flexible Sanding Sticks: amzn.to/3sblzkG
Miniature Files: amzn.to/3yU3qvl
Tamiya Sprue Cutters: amzn.to/3gfvjYm Apoxy Sculpt: amzn.to/3ULQPU7
Clay Shapers: amzn.to/39bPZgW
Vortex Mixer: amzn.to/3DgXzD4
Jo Sonja Brush Cleaner & Conditioner: amzn.to/3B98EF2
Brush Cleaning Tank: amzn.to/3VEr6hj
Portable Airbrush Booth: amzn.to/3t3baYB
My Airbrush: Iwata HP-CS: amzn.to/3ayFrt1
My Airbrush Compressor: amzn.to/3gqmF9I
Cordless Airbrush & Compressor: amzn.to/3sbmilU
Tamiya Extra Thin Plastic Cement: amzn.to/3SsJxCU
X-acto knife: amzn.to/3EY26eO
0:00 Intro
0:51 Le Nippers
2:40 Spongy Things
4:39 Resin Coated Sand Paper?!
8:11 Palette Sheets
9:04 Brush Set
11:04 Brush Care Sheets
12:05 Lil Thumb Palette Ring
13:13 ShortGrip Paint Brushes
15:01 Final Thoughts and Outtakes

[@yerushalaimnehereset]

Wait till somebody tells him where Tamiya is from. lmao

[@robertwilder4953]

😂

[@Lordvader1212]

💀

[@nofuxgivens2797]

Or MrHobby

[@codyott1982]

Dun dun duuuhhhhhnnnn

[@LoftOfTheUniverse]

Everybody like this comment. Now.

[@CaimZheit]

I recently got into 3d printing and use wet sanding a lot. It's an easy way to avoid resin dust getting everywhere

[@FinalHero1]

Ohh that is good, that hadn't crossed my mind.

[@Abraleo]

Wet sanding is the best way no to breathe resin powder :), for sure an every day tool when trying to smooth the support marks ❤

[@BenJamin-en3jb]

Exactly. Regular sandpaper works for this, tho. Or regular wet sanding paper, if the normal stuff keeps ripping.

[@LuckyAssult]

Yeah, you can also just get wet sanding sheets from the automotive section of most big box stores.

[@finalcountdownsteve]

The wet sand is also a way to fix primer texture issues. Which to Jon’s point is more of a model kit technique. Bu, I have used it in my models as well.

[@KT-pv3kl]

wait... why does your primer even HAVE a texture ? that should not be happening and if it does something went sideways quite steeply !

[@bluedotdinosaur]

FYI the big block sanding sponges are so common because of Gunpla. Gunpla kits have lots of large, square, block-shaped components that have have mold lines on a wide flat surface. Or, a thin line of cement after gluing two halves of a large block together. It makes sense to buff the entire flat surface gently with a big sponge to smooth those lines off. And leave a consistently leveled surface across the entire face.

[@ScytheNoire]

Now you just need to get Mr. Hobby to send you a box of products to test out. They have an insane line of products.

[@DavidVanCleef]

Or gaianotes. He'd probably go ape over Finish Master (a deceptively simple tool for cleaning up washes).

[@chadfontaine2717]

The thumb palette can also be upgraded with the addition of a wrist palette, a forearm palette and finger palettes for maximum palette goodness ;)

[@perkz505]

I have those same godhand clippers, but they are around $15 usd here in the states, not 30 to 45. They definitely perform better than any others I have used.

[@MojiiOkay]

One thing I've learned since joining the hobby recently, is that if you have an option to get a hobby product from a Japanese company, you get a hobby product from the Japanese company. Their pedigree is typically unmatched. Godhand seems to be more about gimmicks and "premium versions" of typical tools, but... Tamiya, Iwata, MasterTools, Mr. Hobby... outside of actual paints, which all of the good ones seem to be produced in Europe, Japan's storied history with models and model building really leads to consistently top-end products in my limited experience

[@CTCParadox]

I would say Japanese paints are excellent. Mr Hobby and Tamiya are both made in Japan, but they are very different paints with different targets to the water based acrylics mini wargamers use.

[@ryo86ok]

For any painting product from hobby companies in Japan - keep in mind that although more water-based paints are becoming popular, alcohol/naptha based paints are still what most hobbyists use. You'll see a lot more synthetic and focus on PBT brushes over sable for this reason & the same rationale applies to other paint-related products. My issues with products from Japan are the often suspect/incomplete translations & extensive instructions that even a beginner hobbyist would reasonably ignore (even if it was in english). There's also a bunch of youtube videos only available in japanese of product reps from these companies explaining stuff further to get the maximum potential of their products. Like most expensive stuff tools and machines, there is a very specific way to handle them or treat them and unfortunately the info is buried in translation or a 2000 word paragraph in size 6 font. Whenever someone has an issue with godhand products not working as advertised, its usually because of something in the instructions - almost like someone trying to use masterson sta-wet palette paper like parchment paper, without all the prep. I work at a hobby store on the weekends and I do warhammer, gunpla and the traditional scale models like cars/aircraft/AFV. Generally speaking there is a price hurdle, but individuals who have tried godhand products like them a lot and will repeat buy them. However, if I was doing just warhammer, I dont think there are any "must" items from them - I use godhand because I use it for the other subjects, where they make a difference. If you're being quoted PN125 for 30-40$ that is unusual - they go for about 15USD/20CAD.

[@morbheads1631]

Are there any Japanese products you do think are good for warhammer

[@ryo86ok]

​@@morbheads1631 I've been using Tamiya 70450 pin vise for ~25 years since I was a kid and the chuck can still hold a 0.3mm drill. The pin vises I bought here, currently on my 3rd one, the corners on the chuck wore away and lost its edge and cant hold anything smaller than a 0.7mm (I use multiple pin vises similar to how i have multiple xacto knife handles for different blades - clean #11, sh*t #11, and #10). Tamiya 74094 and similar photo-etched craft saws are also very thin and good for modifying parts; they can somewhat be held by a regular xacto handle, but the tang is too long for it and the specific holder from tamiya accommodates it. Since it is not sandwiched between two plates like regular razor-blade like hobby saws, you can saw deeper without obstruction from the aforementioned plates.. Godhand GH-RN-SET is a scribing needle set and I use it for warhammer if i feel like a superficial moat would help (ie. pauldron face vs rim on something like the space marines heroes moulds) or the panel line is a wide "V" shape that I don't trust to hold a wash. A sewing needle does the same, but I find the density and added weight of a full bit 3mm bit results in less skipping/jumping when dragging. I think those are the only ones - warhammer figures are a lot less intensive for construction compared to model kits (warhammer molds arent from the 1970s, less gaps to fill/sand/re-scribe details, forming and securing photoetch, etc) so a lot of non-japanese items do the same thing. Similar to why someone might buy a tamiya 74123 vs regular nippers, the justification is there but so is the price - $15 nippers will do the same, but with more cleanup after. In terms of painting, the only recommendation is if you have a personal preference regarding sable and its supply chain. Mr hobby MB03, MB04 etc brushes and Tamiya HG/HGII are good alternatives if the art store synthetic brushes arent meeting expectations and they will last with proper care. Nothing beats a sable brush tho when it comes to painting water based acrylics. I like using GX114 as a flat clear, but this requires you to go into harmful chemicals which I find warhammer, more than any other genre, avoids.

[@ryo86ok]

Forgot one thing - I use mr hobby clips (GT104 and similar) extensively to hold parts while priming and keeping the project organized. You can make the same with alligator clips and kebab sticks, but by the time you gather parts and assemble, the price is justified for me. you can make your own stand from corrugated cardboard (See mr hobby GT110 for what to recreate)

[@cggentry]

Speaking of burying info in a 2000 word paragraph...

[@malkomalkavian]

It wasn't even 700

[@TheDainerss]

@Ninjon. The brush at 10:39 is a weathering brush, used to apply weathering powders to models. I highly doubt you would ever use it on miniatures. But I use them all the time on Gundams.

[@kgoblin5084]

you wouldn't apply weathering powder to something like a robot?

[@TheDainerss]

@@kgoblin5084 you could use them on robots or vehicles, yes. just with a softer brush. I was referring to the brush, that particular brush would not be used. But you could use powerders on minatures using a makeup brush or something soft like that.

[@trixieleonard7825]

Works for bases if doing stone or stonework

[@foreverfornever1124]

A lot of my current tools in the hobby are from Japan, mainly because I work on Gunpla as well and follow a lot of Japanese content. They've been in the game far longer than most of us in this hobby have

[@kevinkerlin5603]

True

[@morbheads1631]

when did gunpla start?

[@aldoandresmendozaguerra8651]

​@@morbheads1631 with the first gundam series

[@solkana]

@@morbheads1631 The first episode of Gundam aired April 1979, but the first kit was released July 1980 a few months after the final episode had aired.

[@naphaneal]

@@morbheads1631 around very late 1970's to early 1980's, when mecha anime became a thing.

[@NickMK]

Gotta love Jon having that finger palette on and still using the upper side of his thumb to test the paint out

[@Gomo_66]

I’d really want to see you tackle a full sized (like hg) gundam kit. How you’d go painting it as someone who mainly does minis. I’ve started applying some mini techniques to my Gunpla and it looks great. So I want to see someone has way more knowledge do it. Think you’d come up with something really cool.

[@kena3234]

Good idea!

[@tay13666]

Me too. I only dabble in gunpla but I have been building models for decades. I've been hanging out in the miniature community picking up painting tips that I adapt for larger scale models. Mainly because there is just so much more detailed content here than in the model building community.

[@kevindonville8185]

This would be very interesting. I went from model kits (space craft and planes mostly) to miniatures. I had to relearn everything.

[@Norskolld]

There is a really good channel called Plasmo that does military models that did an MG kit. Is a good watch.

[@AvoidTheCadaver]

I've go most of Bandai's 1/60 perfect grade Gundam kits (i went through a phase of splurging on them) I could totally see these tools being very useful on a model that size. They're about 35-40cm tall with massive wings and what not

[@naphaneal]

GodHand is widely used in gunpla. And the tiny brushes are often used for panel lining resp. pin washing. The brush cleaning sheets are meant to be used in wet condition. you water them, until fully soaked. run brush through soap, then work bristles over the damp sheet at a parallel angle. rinse, repeat, form tip, store.

[@KT-pv3kl]

how is a tiny brush with a tiny reservoir and a broad tip gonna help with panel lining? that's the exact opposite of what you want to have for that task

[@Gvaz]

@@KT-pv3kl Yeah I don't think any of those are good for panel lining, maybe for freehanding. lots more people use pens for panel lining and then wipe the surface

[@Benjambles]

The scratchy brush is potentially for when trying to remove paint applied over the fluids (or hairspray) that make paint flake for weathering

[@LathanM]

That is exactly what I use one for. When you use masking fluid it is great for pulling that stuff off.

[@ScytheNoire]

Might also be useful for stippling?

[@karlthemadscientist6295]

@@ScytheNoire Yeah I was thnking it was a stippling brush

[@khromas5392]

​@@karlthemadscientist6295 Yeah, that's what I thought as well.

[@CoryG1981]

also can be used to clean airbrush gravity pots . tamiya sells one just for it

[@Lawlzyoutoobz]

A lot japanese model paints are not water based acrylics, so the paper is useful for those types of paints since you do not want them on your skin, I believe the paper towel like thing is to not get fibers into your paint mix, as you said a lot of the super smooth glassy look of gunpla or model kits is from prep and having paper towel fibers in your paint would ruin that.

[@IcarusGames]

The palette paper is likely similar to GW's paint pad or other palette paper. It's not for wicking paint, but for using like you would any other palette.

[@Pjarsong]

This!

[@sevencoloredmage8726]

Wet sanding is the only way you should sand your resin stuff. You also get a finer finish because the grit binds with the water and acts as polishing paste while sanding. One of my favorite putty types is SSP-HG. It's very sticky, cures super fast and is smoothly sandable.

[@TheJoshinatah]

As someone who came from Gunpla to Warhammer, it's super cool to see someone look at Gunpla tools from the other side. I have an entire toolbox of crazy niche tools only for Gunpla, and they are all super weird xD

[@Rabarbarzynca]

Granted, most of the time I imagine Japan as land of gundam and waifus painting. Very clean and methodical style, completly different from usual mini painting we are used to. Imagine bathing your whole gunpla into oil wash to make it gritty, darkhammer style model....

[@mistformsquirrel]

@@Rabarbarzynca ... okay but I kinda wanna see that cause I think that would look badass...

[@coreymorse1347]

@@mistformsquirrel Just do a youtube search for gunk wash (the current term in gundam land). Model kits like gundams and tanks are where the technic comes from.

[@danielbaxter3902]

@@Rabarbarzynca people do often weather in that style, often called a sludge wash

[@Bragnezam]

@@mistformsquirrel Tabletop Time did a gunpla video where they did something similar

[@nuuskye]

I kind of wonder if the stiff nylon brush is a stippling brush. It doesn't seem soft enough to be a dry brush, but nylon fibers would probably hold up quite well to the stress of stippling

[@marvinmega]

From the gunpla hobby line there is 2 things I like, the sprue holder which organizes sprues on your desk and the painting stand with alligator clips which is great when doing sub-assembly and airbrush them.

[@danberner]

those are the entry level God Hand Nippers. Wait til you get the single edge ones. Cuts through plastic like butter.

[@jc7997aj]

You do realize a green laser hooked up to a tesla refurbished battery is the ultimate plastic sprue cutting utensil. 🙄 amatures.

[@danberner]

@@jc7997aj of course, but the cost effectiveness of a green laser hooked up to a tesla refurbished battery, compared to a god hand nipper is insane. I can't be spending all that money on a refurb car battery if I want to complete my Evil Suns army.

[@jc7997aj]

@@danberner well when you factor in time and cost savings. It really pays for itself after a period of time. By my calculations my great grand children will be cutting sprues for free.

[@AThousandSons1]

That's a stipple brush!!! God I miss the stiff bristle stipple brush citadel made once upon a time! The rigidity helps it not fall to bits after 1000 jabs

[@smoke264]

Godhand are premium tools and mostly designed for japanese model kits, the sprues have a small hollow section that doesn't dull the nipper blades as fast, GW sprues are completely solid and feels kinda soft when trying to cut, that will make the blades dull/break in a short time

[@KT-pv3kl]

if the clippers can't handle soft plastic without getting dull or breaking they are useless especially at that price. hardened steel clippers should last you a lifetime if all you are cutting is plastic.

[@grimm697]

@@KT-pv3kl They're not built like regular nippers, they're supposed to be finishing tools. The blades are extra thin, so they cut smoother, but that means breaking them is easier than standard nippers, too. It's like comparing a sanding block to a belt sander, they're not meant to do the same things.

[@KT-pv3kl]

@@grimm697 actually sanding blocks and belts anders are perfectly comparable as the do the exact same job Aka sanding. a clipper is supposed to cut models out of sprues. this nipper can't do that so it's a useless tool.

[@timdonk1916]

​@@KT-pv3kl Late response but you absolutely can cut thick plastic with God Hands. You just have to not 'twist' the clipper when clipping harder plastics, just cut straight down. Also don't cut thick/hard plastics with the tip only. Single edged clippers basically act like a kitchen knife and cutting board, don't do anything you wouldn't do with your kitchen knife and you're golden. My brother got my a pair about 5 years ago when he visited Japan and I've done everything from cutting through terrain pieces to cutting Plague Marines in half. They're just as good as when I was gifted them. Since you should be cutting your Warhammer parts out flush with these, they're not going to get dull or break if you're doing that. They might get dull or break if you are dealing with a lot of specialty plastics but you never encounter these with Games Workshop products in a meaningful scale. As an aside, these are scale modelling tools and the type of modelling between this and miniature wargaming is notably different. Technically God Hands are referred to as "finishing" cutters in that sphere because you're meant to cut the way away from the sprue with one set of cutters and use these to produce as clean of a cut as possible without pinching the plastic. Then you clean the rest with increasinging grits of sandpaper + glass files and finish the surface with the appropriate polishing cloth so to blend in the texture. Some kits, like Gunpla, don't need to be painted if your finishing work is immaculate and just about all scale modelling kits have huge amounts of detailless surfaces where blemishes are obvious. Absolutely none of this matters with miniatures, especially with Games Workshop stuff. Its refreshing in a way because it almost doesn't matter how rough you are during the assembly process because they're so small and have so much detail that no one is going to notice you cutting away too much of a space marine's pauldron or scraping a little too hard while removing casting lines. I don't even bring out the sanding sticks half the time anymore, I just run some Tamiya extra thin cement if I need to remove casting lines in awkward places.

[@Crimsonphotog]

The brush with the hard white bristles is probably designed to be a stippling brush. GW used to make one similar in the early 2000's

[@Sorrowdusk]

I'm curious about this now.

[@NyxErinyes]

This. I actually still have the GW one!

[@stevenkelly7354]

I was about to say this as I still have my GW stippling brush.

[@trixieleonard7825]

Other hobbies: Plein Air brushes (french for open air painting). The brushes have caps and are super good for a set to take to the model shop or a park or your partners for painting without ruining the tips. On the topic of not ruining tips, if you always lose your clear brush tip protectors, get some tubing for aquariums, can cut it to size and super cheap. Also can make sorta workable flightstands if they aren't too long. I have also found makeup brushes (specifically blush and eyeshadow) that have caps, and in general blush/eyeshadow brushes are good for drybrushing (get the smaller size ones, not those giant ones you always see). Some makeup brushes also have sponges on the tip? Never tried one for hobbying but it seems it could have some uses for painting bricks in tight spaces or something. Clear acrylic Nailpolish displays make great model displays. Get one made for bigger bottles or you'll only fit 25mm or less bases. Turning it upside down can also give slightly more room as it can now overhang the edge. Dollarstores sometimes carry them. You may want to try pill bottles as a figure holder. A bit of bluetac under the model and it's a cheap holder made of junk for airbrushing or painting. If you know a parent or someone with a variety of pills you can even have multiple bottle lengths for different things and multiple caps to hotswap them

[@appledornart2535]

Godhand makes a few varieties of smaller and or thinner sponge sanders that are incredibly handy, and can be trimmed and shaped with a hobby knife to fit in nooks and crannies. Mr color has some of the absolute best airbrush metallics you can find. Love them! Not to mention their thinner and regular paints as well. Comparable to Tamiya. Chisels and panel liners are a tools that are super popular in gunpla but I've gotten a few uses out of them for kitbashes and conversions. Lastly, I would definitely use that stuff bristle brush for weathering or chipping.

[@aerouge4492]

10:50 thats a stippling brush. Used to stiple weathering pigments or scratch the surface in weathering. Cool stuff!

[@Scudboy17]

When it comes to tips and tricks from other hobbies, I've gotten some pretty good results with minis using masking to creat until markings and pinstriping on vehicles and armor. It's a common practice for the gunpla and scale modeling world but I don't see it used very often, if at all, in miniature war gaming. One thing I've picked on my own is using markers and even colored pencils to shade and add details to my minis. I also experimented with using real steal for swords and weapons. I don't (usually) sharpen them, but real metal has a luster and shine you just can't get with paint.

[@waveemann8857]

their other sanding sponges, the ones that are really soft foam and about 3.5" long are just about the only thing i use for sanding minis

[@Wymorn]

The short brushes are actually quite useful when using a desk-mounted magnifying glass as they are less likely to bump into it while you're painting something, but honestly that's about it lol

[@KT-pv3kl]

that's why you use head mounted magnifying goggles if you need to . there is no reason to use objectively worse brushes with worse ergonomics especially if you want to paint extreme detail that requires extreme brush control. buying an extra is a set of brushes for that task alone is completely backwards when the problem can be solved by simply buying the right tool for the job .

[@dust_bin_gaming7319]

The wet sanding is more to help prevent further scratches, beyond what's intended by sanding, by keeping the contact area between the sander and the part cleaner. 'Shiny, glossy look' comes from normal sanding through higher and higher grits (which doesn't require being wet) and buffing with a compound, same as glass and metals.

[@maxbrandt6]

I really like using the little GodHand sanding sponges and the sanding paper strips, it's high time we go beyond the basic Testors hobby tools still hanging around arts & crafts stores and start using these great Japanese products! Tamyia tools are also nice, just not weird like some of these are.

[@GreenBlueWalkthrough]

I love my Tamyia brushes!

[@uriance88]

Wet sandingfor less: go to local auto shop, buy wet/dry 'finishing' sandpaper kit - you get 1/4 sheets (well 1/4 of standard sandpaper sheet) of 800. 1000 and 1200 grit and those 1/4 sheets are large enough to last a long time.

[@Xenthick]

The short stubby stiff bristled brush is intended for stippling.

[@neem377]

I work as a jeweler and a lot of my hobby tools are old workbench tools especially for converting, wax carving tools, enamel brushes from antiquing are now common on my hobby bench

[@BinxyBrown]

To could probably 3d print a tiny thumb wet pallet, I feel like the sponge would still need to be like 2 small pieces of wet paper towel though or the weight would become an issue.

[@rafaelmiranda2418]

So sad they don't send the weathering products, Tamiya has for example a set of color like "makeup" case that simulates exhaust burn. That firm white brush would go very nicely with some chipping fluid.

[@LizardofDoom]

Thumb Palatte! :L Saving so much time!!!!

[@TheLightLOD]

Those max nipper cutting distance/thickness (Redgress nippers have it similarly) is definitely a thing with games workshop sprues, GW uses very thick connections between sprue and model compared to other model kits like Gundam and regular tank/plane/ship kits from the likes of Tamiya etc.

[@Ghost3210]

My first tools were from a citadel set... now I use cheap gunpla tools from those big sets off Amazon. Pretty sure those are Chinese, but it's so much and it works great. Even the sprue clippers already outlived the citadel ones I had.

[@Abfallkannibale]

I had the weird idea of trying out syringes as a tool for applying washes on my models. It's almost like having a dropper bottle but with more control over where and how much actually lands on the model. I still have to manipulate the wash with a brush, BUT my overall control improved tremendously, I waste less wash and most importantly: Apply more conservatively and dont "over-wash" anymore, which was a HUGE problem for me in the past. It may be more of a crudge than a tool, but hey, it helped me and is a lot of fun to use! Just don't hurt yourself!

[@krzysztofmathews738]

That's a very clever idea! I should try that!

[@mikee9464]

Please never change your intro Ninjon! Everytime I hear that music and see the intro, it takes me back to when I first started painting. These were how I learned to paint. I love it.

[@chris.replay]

The higher end God Hand single blade nippers are incredible. Cuts through plastic and resin like a hot knife through butter.

[@xxxholic22]

a steel earpick is amazing for getting little bits of paint from games workshop bottles to your wet palatte, you can get them really easily and they come in packs, but it's like a teeny tiny spoon

[@saulsmith2939]

Great tip

[@richstokes144]

I've been using a similar thumb palette without paper to shape my brush while painting. Just the same way most people use their actual thumb, but less messy. Been using it for years and it's just become part of my workflow. I think it was about £1 from Aliexpress.

[@ogrokun]

I do that as well, but usually wearing black nitrile glove in my left hand. I was tired of removing paint from my hand when airbrushing, started wearing these gloves. Black flat texture is great as a small palette.

[@goosterpaints731]

@@ogrokun i do this on bigger models that I need to hold at the actual sculpt, to prevent fingerprints on the paint job. Slight downside is sweatty hands after a long session…

[@goosterpaints731]

Interesting video in a geeky way. I could see the thumb palette being of some use w’out the paper as someone suggested. Like for panel lining w’ those brushes that would otherwise dry between your palette and the model. But the real interesting question is you started (or maybe you have for a while now) using Artis Opus Series S brushes. Would really like to hear your thoughts on it? I only have one in size 4 ( comparable to a size 2 Raphael 8404) and I think it’s the best one I own. Have mostly Rapha’8404’s to compare with tho…

[@ogrokun]

Yes, there is a little sweat but it is easier to wash than vallejo primer 😅

[@grim3897]

That thumb palette is the most nonsensical genius shit I ever found out I needed. Time to 3d print it!

[@jc7997aj]

I use wet sanding all the time on my 3d prints. It's amazing for keeping the dust down and ofcourse getting a smooth paintable surface.

[@parabolist69]

Thanks for the review and your opinion! I have cut down some of my brushes actually, so I can paint inside my terrain-pieces (40K ruins). So the shorter brushes might have a place in the hobby...

[@thedha10]

I don't know why they didn't send you the sanding sticks. They're the same as the bricks but in a 2mm/3mm stick, works great.

[@LemurKrazy]

Have tested many products from parallel hobbies. Build aircraft, military figures, cars, tanks, garage kits and miniatures. My main arsenal right now Godhands nippers - SPN-120 Army painter knife - fat handled red one Master tools scraper - replaces most sanding work Citadel mold line remover - good for textured areas and fast Four Es vortex mixer GSI PS270 airbrush Patriot 105 Raphael brushes Godhand sanding sticks and sponges - 120 to 10000 Tamiya extra thin cement Citadel files Hobby Mio wet palette Redgrass and citadel paint handles Master Tools decal tray AK white putty Army painter tweezers Citadel texture tool AK paint stirrers Flex-i-File Ammo mig airbrush stencils Tamiya pointed cotton buds Citadel paint pots Tamiya Masking tape - every size Blutak - our poster putty here Tamiya polishing compound ZapaGap CA - medium AK intermediate Gauzy

[@Skadooch]

I snagged a multipack of the Godhand nippers, 3 packs of sanding sponges and another big sanding stick for 30 bucks at my LGS. Was using the generic Plato snips for the longest time, and the Godhand ones are vastly superior. Still use the old ones for terrain work mostly and heavy cuts on sprue. The sanding sponges are simply insane, a must for me when working on mould lines, fixing gun barrels, allows you to shape the model at your pace. Decent for working on softer plastics, like the Battlemechs from Catalyst Games. Really took a lot of stress off cleaning and prep work.

[@Matrice0056]

Great video as always. 😂 The larger blue handled brush in the wide shot towards the end is decent. I have a few of those. Thanks for the reviews Jon.

[@ricktedder4749]

Given you're description of the round white brush being scratchy, could this brush be for weathering IE: adding scratches and chipping perhaps using the chipping medium or hair spray method

[@djkritical9606]

I build my own sanding sticks. Wooden coffee stirrers, double sided tape and automotive sandpaper. I'm coming from the gunpla community and figured I'd look at the Warhammer community for tips and tricks to help my gunpla journey

[@Coerciveutopian]

I really like having little woodworking clamps (the kind with rubber grips and a ratchet) to hold models together as the glue cures.

[@knwonggmail]

I have the short grip brush , the tip is so small and pointy which allow me to do some fine detail which i like it. Some of thier popular items do not show case here but i don't think is good for miniature painting is their famous single blade nipper and their 10mm sponge sand paper which i think they are great as well.

[@rosecorabett]

i love using artist grade Glazing medium from acrylic painting to thin my GW paints

[@ChrisReichPhoto]

The mechanical pencil that instead of lead is a grit stick. Numerous airbrush stencils for mottled or damage effects. Adhesive backed sandpaper is great when you have the stainless tool set that is for it, you can have rigid and thin sandpaper or angled ones for hard to reach spots. The hole punched color chips that are white for normal colors and white/black for metallics, best way to see actual colors and have a reference for mixed colors. The finishing master sticks for removing oil washes, less so for organic shapes but they are great for stuff like tau and tanks.

[@reaverred5963]

Kind of a niche thing but when I was in the army we used shaving brushes (the little fluffy ones with a wooden handle) as a tool for cleaning weapons. Turns out they also work really well if you have models that have got a little dusty sitting on your shelf, table etc.

[@MikeGeney]

I actually like those stubby brushes. it feels like having the end of the brush hit the web of your thumb makes you hold the brush the exact same way every time. I got one from princeton's brush line a long time ago and it felt like it helped me with brush control quite a bit.

[@Jhokalups]

Would you use the stuff round tipped brush for weathering/chipping?

[@TheJacktor]

Try out the Tamiya flat white with their thinner. That stuff feels like cheating. It is so smooth and the application is so buttery its almost jarring. I often accidently flood the model when I airbrush but that stuff dries so fast I don't have that problem anymore

[@darthhasifius9770]

Wait, do godhand entry nippers cost $30-$40 in NA? I bought mine for $12 (after conversion).

[@Sentientmad9m]

That super scratchy bristle tipped brush would probably be cool when doing some camo patterns

[@emperorkiva8063]

Funny enough I've seen a number of japanese gunpla builders using Citadel paints and brushes Not for miniatures mind you, but for gunplas

[@wikyWargaming]

I used the tiny tiny Godhand brush for a minute when I started painting again (took about a ten year break) and it's nice, but the paint dries in the brush way too fast

[@Burgala]

I use a magnifying lamp instead of sexy gogs most of the time, and I constantly end up hitting the end of my brush handle against it. Having short handles like that would be a huge QOL improvement for me.

[@daringdarius5686]

One of the biggest things for me were these $8 teeny tiny brushes that held up fairly well, except... They usually come 4-5 in a pack! They were clearly meant for doing ultra fine details on a Gundam, such as making accurate (to scale) writing on a Gundam, but honestly, it helped me control details/high-lighting I wanted to do, but also, on models of all size, doing something as detail oriented as an intricate fabric design or trying to mimic stitching, they became extremely useful and a recurring purchase (I tend to abuse my brushes, they tend to last about 6 months of use, or 3 months (or less) of constant abuse.

[@maqywhaq]

The resin impregnated sanding paper isn't thick enough to actually provide a huge difference in rigidity(at most, you're looking at it being like a piece of thin plastic card). But there's a difference in using plastic with a fine sanding grit, and sand paper with a thin resin soaked into it. Pretty much, it's for reaching into little corners to do polishing work, and not so much for bulk material removal. Unfortunately, a lot of these products don't apply so much to our use cases, but if you have a project in mind that these work for, it can be a pretty good tool to have on hand.

[@TheKitten]

Acrylic nails and nail art has a ton of tools that are the exact same thing as miniature tools. I sometimes wonder is miniatures are just a conspiracy started by the fingernail industry to sell their products to men. I realized this when I tried searching for miniature stuff on the wish app and the app was like "your a woman tho, here is the same thing in pink for fingernails". The "fingernail charm" drill has been incredibly useful for pinning . Fingernail decals are the exact same thing as miniature decals. Another place to look is resin jewelry making. I got a UV mold of wings at the craft store and used my clear elagoo resin and it worked perfectly and the wing size is the correct size for miniatures.

[@KT-pv3kl]

you might be on to something ... my cheap brushes - nail art on Amazon my ipa - nail art supplier my portable airbrush - nail art my pinvise - nail art drill my rivets - nail art gems only my paints are from hobby brands ... I might have to look into nail art paints ...

[@Sorrowdusk]

Ya know the big Nail Devorator rotary sander, is sold as part of Gundam hobby supply kits on Amazon

[@Sorrowdusk]

@@KT-pv3kl Are any of those nail art brushes actually dual action?

[@KT-pv3kl]

@@Sorrowdusk pretty much all of them are dual action.

[@akumaking1]

So will you try building/painting Gunpla then?

[@quasistellar]

Gunpla is what I do when I don't feel like painting 🤣. Super fun hobby--ive bought like 50 kits in the last year lol

[@bacawaka2813]

​@Philip you dont paint the gubdams? They look so much better even with just a matte base coat than the glossy plastic counterpart.

[@quasistellar]

@@bacawaka2813 I don't consider matte coating painting :P

[@blacklegion2531]

​@@quasistellar tamiya japan

[@Super-Sheepy]

You can always tinker the thumb pallet, get a sticky sponge, trim it then try again with the paper, should hold moisture for a little longer

[@the_real_shoes]

Is there/will there be a video on those stormcast?

[@jeffhildenbrand9796]

Hey Jon! You ever paint that model you made with just the bits?

[@FrankieRogersArt]

I love that even once you have the thumb pallet on, you continue to wick off excess paint on your thumb 😂

[@philthymofo]

the godhand snips are worth every cent...

[@carval51]

the expensive godhand is really different, you should try it once, it so godly soft you literally feel like cutting butter. problem is it's getting duller as time goes, could resharpen it though

[@lordfarnswaller]

The short nylon brush could be used for the hair spray technique chipping.

[@mr.m12345]

I use their God Hand clippers for clipping supports off of my resin 3d prints. They are amazing! I like the idea of that thumb palette, but 100% agree with you, it needs to be a wet palette.

[@KT-pv3kl]

now all you need to learn is how to make actually good supports and tune your printer settings because you don't need clippers if you do. the supports come off on their own after a soak in ipa for about an hour.

[@purehavok]

You can put a paint pot in your fleshlight if it's one of fancy vibrating ones

[@Abedeuss]

>weird Japanese hobby tools Me having watched dozens of garage kit/sculpting videos and wanting to buy half of them prior to watching this video.

[@dirigoallagash3464]

Direction translations are one of my favorite things in the world. "The filament is nearly circular..." 🤣

[@slambaz2]

I always enjoy when you test weird things. Keep up the good work.

[@Ultrajamz]

If you see a jar with goopy white stuff be careful

[@MrSJPowell]

At minimum, Jon's stress testing the English translation on the instructions.

[@MiniPainterGamerDadD20]

I really like the thumb palette and the tiny handle brushes.

[@UntiltedName]

the paper products might be a result of lesser quality paper towel offerings I had to get shop towels to use instead of grocery store paper towels. The paper towels I had leave fibers all over the place including getting stuck in my brushes, paint water, wet pallet and ultimately on the models. Shop towel rolls solved that issue reeeel quick.

[@mrphucyoo8281]

Theres a company here in uk selling thumb pallets but made of plastic with a few wells, they are directed at minature painters too i saw the ad and review in "fantasy minature" magazine.

[@cameronfotheringham6659]

Seeing you kitted out in all the new, funky fresh, hobby gear; I can tell I'm looking at the future

[@LathanM]

The sanding stuff is cool if you terrain or tanks. If you only do minis, it is overkill. The stubby brushes are a preference thing and depend on how you hold them. I hold my detail brushes with the handle pointing over my fingers instead of in the crook of my hand. The thumb pallet is something I would try. I have a small plastic one that is similar that I use m9re for shaping tips or when I use oils.

[@archimedesd5794]

Get a sharp tofu fork. Snap one of the prongs off and sharpen the break point. Amazing for scraping, cleaning out and removing mistakes. Discovered it by accident and now always make sure I have one handy.

[@grimmriffer]

You seemed quite keen on the sanding products, but forgot by the time you got to the end of the vid. The thumb palette might work better if you soaked the paper before sticking it on, but... meh. (The clippers worked! 👍 )

[@grimbostink7607]

Looking at you holding those short grip brushes made my hands cramp.

[@bluenine85]

I'm intrigued by the short brushes, if only to have in a go kit for when I am heading out of town and want to have a few things on me.

[@Axofpik]

I think that super firm nylon brush is weathering / applying texture dusts

[@rustedcog2347]

Floral wires can be cut up to pin minis with, prefer them to paper clips. Nail art has a ton of stuff that crosses over well, like tiny gems and decals.

[@yourgoodliness]

I always find it fascinating to see new tools! The thumb palette was a tragedy, I really wanted that to work. I can see a good use for the sanding sponge with 3D prints, where aliasing happens on large flat surfaces. It seems like that might be a good solution.

[@annikahstebben4425]

Tbh I use my thumb nail as a pallet mini and it works just as good for small quality mixes

[@noops9220]

That tough round brush is a sign writing brush downscaled to our scale. They’re better at stipling more than wiping the paint.

[@hcborring]

The finger palette looks usefull when you need some wetblending. You want your paint as close as possible.

[@envynemo4170]

I’ve got an little wet pallet that I can put on my thumb or finger helps me with the more detailed work and doing the wet blending on the mini before the acrylic drys on me. Also I did not have to have it shipped from Japan,