Arduino Prototyping Techniques

[@marilyn.g]

Can you make more videos?

[@MarcdeVinck]

I would love to! Trying to figure out how to make it affordable.

[@mubassherkamal330]

he has a big perfboard right behind him

[@MarcdeVinck]

Haha. Never thought of it that way!

[@ducksonplays4190]

XD

[@YouKnowMeDuh]

Rofl I almost missed it

[@agrofindastation]

When you grabbed that soldering iron tip, I nearly crapped myself

[@MarcdeVinck]

Haha! Yeah that would have hurt!

[@jonathanlevin7660]

Subscribed! Straight to the point, with lots of tips and great demos. Getting into electronics is challenging since there are a lot of different skills, knowledge domains and equipment involved. Videos like these definitely help bridge the gap. Thanks.

[@MarcdeVinck]

Thank You!!! Much appreciated.

[@omarshishani5899]

Came here to find what you said at 5:30, about using the clips from the LEDs to connect several holes together. Thanks for that advice :) Also like your idea of using the sockets to be able to switch out the controller if you fry it.

[@MarcdeVinck]

Glad I could help!

[@codewalters]

Thanks for sharing !

[@senrinakamura4456]

Easy to understand, engaging, and very helpful. Keep it up!!!

[@MarcdeVinck]

Thank you! I'll make more soon!

[@NunoLeitaonunogrl]

Well done! I've seen so many crap instructions out there. I cringe when I read "create a blob of solder" 🤦‍♂️ Of course you make wiring with a wire as a conductor! Thanks for the great video

[@MarcdeVinck]

Thanks for the feedback! I really appreciate it!

[@ge2719]

what are the big pads without holes on the edge of the board for? I'm guessing soldering a larger wire that wont fit in one of the holes, like say +v and -v, but are they connected to the rows at all, or do you have to jump them to a hole to pass the power on?

[@DamjanDimitrioski]

Any ideas where to find headers for esp32? You mentioned you used headers for the atmega chip, but what would you do for an esp32 dev boards that needs to included on the perfboard?

[@MarcdeVinck]

It really depends on the board, but in general you can always use make header pins to make the board easily removed.

[@DamjanDimitrioski]

@@MarcdeVinck the board I use is esp wroom 32, I broke some 40pin header (very poorly), but I was wondering if that header can be premade or some header model that can be easily cut.

[@MarcdeVinck]

@@DamjanDimitrioski Most header pins (male or female) can be cut down as needed. I believe that board has standard pin spacing, so just grab some header pins from any online electronics source and cut as needed. You can use standard versions, or female stacking headers so you can easily add more components.

[@DamjanDimitrioski]

@@MarcdeVinck So you're suggesting 2 single row headers? I thought there can some fancy header dedicated to a desired dev board :).

[@MarcdeVinck]

@@DamjanDimitrioski That's the typical solution. (And cheap!)

[@3DavyJones]

Very nice, thank you for the useful tips!

[@MarcdeVinck]

Thanks for the feedback. It's much appreciate!

[@ChrisSgaraglino]

Slight problem: Tin Snips DON’T come in left or right handed. The 3 types, come in three basic colors for cutting direction! Red handles - Used to make “left” or counterclockwise cuts in sheet metal. Green handles - Used to make “right” or clockwise cuts in sheet metal. Yellow handles - Used for straight cuts in sheet metal. Unless your views are cutting circles, the NED the Yellow Handle (Straight) cutting snips.

[@MarcdeVinck]

Good point, thanks for sharing. Most people just use heavy duty sheers, and the cuts are typically so short almost anything will do. But yes, you are correct!

[@andrewneilson492]

just learning , really helpful thanks mate

[@MarcdeVinck]

Glad I could help! And thanks for the feedback!

[@andybrychenko]

Great video

[@MarcdeVinck]

Thanks!

[@Andrefa75]

Thank you so much!

[@armLocalhost]

Now, you can buy cheap Pinecil iron for $30 which also has those amazing tips which heat up itself and have thermocouple for extra temperature stability It heats up extremely quickly (10-30 seconds), can sustain temperature even on big ground planes and works over type c.

[@MarcdeVinck]

Very true. I have some of the small ones. They have come a long way, and work well. However, when soldering a lot, I still use my 20+ year old Metcal. It's just perfect.

[@jumbo999614]

Is there a way to fix burned holes in perfboard? Sometime I'm not able to bridge the track because the surface of the hole get burned.

[@MarcdeVinck]

It can happen, but if you are having that issue more than once, your iron is too hot and lingers too long. But to answer your question, sure, you could use a small wire to jump a "bad area". Magnet wire is really good for fixing bad traces and circuits.

[@DesertVox]

Cutting perfboard is better done using a metal ruler and a cutter, by scoring it several times, and then it breaks off very neatly without damaging either side of the board.

[@yushimushi]

can i know which one is better between breadboard and donut board?

[@MarcdeVinck]

Depends on your project. A 'typical' breadboard has some holes connected allowing for multiple components to connect together faster. You may have to either jump between pads, or cut some traces to build your circuit. A "donut" board has 1 pad per hole. None of the holes are connected. I like 'donut' boards for freeform circuits and 'typical' breadboards when working with ICs since you can easily break out the pins to multiple components. Hope that helps!

[@phrankus2009]

SKILLZ!

[@zuriel-1351]

Can you solder a Arduino directly to the PCB?

[@MarcdeVinck]

It depends on the board. An Arduino Uno? No. An Arduino Mini or Nano? Yes, but I would always suggest you use a socket so it can be removed.

[@zuriel-1351]

@@MarcdeVinck thanks I appreciate it

[@johntoe6127]

I hate those brown perfboards. The copper is only 1 molecule thick! Any project worth soldering up is worth using the green fiberglass boards.

[@dannyclaydenchambers5907]

Keen to find that soldering iron.. Could you link please?

[@MarcdeVinck]

I highly recommend Hakko irons, they are great! -- amzn.to/35QrrEj -- Or a used Metcal via a site like ebay. They are really expensive, even used.

[@ryanokeefe12]

There is flux in the core of even decent solder.. You don't need to add flux unless you're reflowing a joint.

[@MarcdeVinck]

Yes, most do. But a lot of perfboard comes tarnished, unless packed really well, and adding some extra flux is always a good idea. I have a whole course on learning to solder if you are interested in learning more -- www.linkedin.com/learning-login/share?forceAccount=false&redirect=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.linkedin.com%2Flearning%2Flearning-soldering-for-electronics%3Ftrk%3Dshare_ent_url%26shareId%3DfiXf%252FlvMSo%252BTd%252F0kTFyV%252FA%253D%253D

[@supersanic3446]

I can't make the solder connect between holes in a perfboard for the life of me. The solder just refuses to go anywhere that isn't metal. The solder just goes into the singular holes and that's it. Impossible to make the connection between them. I don't know what to do.

[@MarcdeVinck]

So the solder really shouldn't go where there isn't any copper. The trick is to use lots of solder to make a small bridge of metal, and if you still are having issues, use a small piece of bare wire to bridge the gaps (like I show in the video) and lots of flux.