X Axis Power feed Part 4

Finishing up the mechanical parts and a trial of the electrics .
I will post links to all the components used when the project is complete. please be patient as some parts may need to be changed.

[@winandd8649]

Stunning compact design, well done! 👍

[@compassprecision]

Cheers. Great video as usual. You always get clear, close up shots that are very interesting to watch.

[@Dave.Wilson]

That's turned out nice Ade, I like it. and you mentioned those three letters, "CNC". Cant wait for that episode.

[@carlwilson1772]

Fantastic build culminating in a very professional result. I like the solution for the stepper motor cables. It's thanks to you I found Zoro, good shop. Bought a precision level from there.

[@howder1951]

Nice design and it finishes up so nice. Enjoyed the series Ade, cheers!

[@66666tony]

Hi are , well done you've done all the hard work , just get the mach 3 usb controller and hook it up to your laptop

[@stephentayler1414]

You have done well Ade. Impressive stuff . Look forward to seeing the completion of this project.

[@ade63dug]

this project is up to date . I am back to work now and knackered so it has slowed a little. more to come and I have refinements in the head based CAD, lol. Cheers Ade.

[@ozrc1017]

Great work Ade, regards Ben from Australia.

[@matthubbard8541]

Lovely job Ade, it’s coming together really well.

[@paulthomas3782]

Fantastic Ade, great addition to the mill well done thanks for sharing.

[@muzaz]

Hi Ade, regarding the buttons and pot, they are a fiddly to take off the board as there are 6 pins on each. If you don't have a solder removal tool (like me) you can take the solder off by heating the pins one by one and with a compressed air gun blow the solder off, works a treat! Rather than toggle switches I used illuminated push button and rotary switches from banggood, they look good and are flush to the face panel. You can also add more switches for more functions, on mine I added a jog function and three speed ranges ( video @ 23.44). It might be too late for it now, but I would have included a mechanical disconnect in the form of a clutch as manually turning the handwheel with the powerfeed electrics on will be difficult because of the holding torque on the stepper motor. Turning off the power feed circuit will make manual turning of the hand wheel easier, but you will be feeding back current into the circuitry potentially damaging something. You can have a look at my setup for a warco WM18 mill on this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ7Kl4mPl8qZpMk and if I can help you in any way I will only be too happy, like your attention to detail and neat work, Regards Chris.

[@brucewilliams6292]

I like the design. Good idea about using the vise without the jaw. I needed a similar setup and this would have been much easier than what I came up with.Thank you for you for the video.

[@bostedtap8399]

Great design and manufacture Ade. Thanks for sharing.

[@nikond90ful1]

Thanks for the video Ade. Nice little project. Keep safe and stay well.

[@MattysWorkshop]

Gday Ades, great job mate, I’m really enjoying this series, the electronics would have me buggered I think, great video, thank you

[@tosselton291]

very nice well thought out work!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hi Ade, Excellent progress.... looking forward to watching the next episode. Take care. Paul,,

[@jonsworkshop]

Hi Ade, cracking job, well done. Really professional looking and sounding piece of kit. Tin of Warco green paint and a patent application and the world's your lobster as you say! I could have really used this conversion in the last couple of weeks doing the Dickson cartridges, another item on the 'to make' list! I think I am going to need to warn my bank manager about you lol. Cheers, Jon.

[@davescreations7793]

I think that you did a awesome job there Ade

[@bejay69]

Great progress Ade, thanks for the update. 👍

[@eyuptony]

Brilliant Ade. Great build and it's amazingly quiet. This set up would be nice on your lathe. Looking forward to seeing it working. Tony

[@JWB671]

What a cool little channel you seem like a great bloke too.

[@mftmachining]

Excellent job on this journey....hats off...top

[@rafo6577]

Zoro's a great shop, i use them often and you can't beat having a Noga at hand. 👍

[@ghl3488]

Thanks Ade, very clever I must say. Just before you announced you would provide details of the kit I was thinking how could I research that little lot! Just got to get a milling machine now! da iawn regards Gareth

[@gagasmancave8859]

very interesting project chap with regards to the potentometer you could replace it with a on/off/on switch and two resistors to give you a slow feed for milling and a fast speed for setting up / returning the table to zero. hope that makes sense N

[@stephenbrown1143]

You were cooking on gas today Ade, brilliant, thanks.

[@matthiash.4670]

Yeah, as I told you few videos ago: A power feed on the Z axis is worth the work ;) I have finished the mechanic part few weeks ago. Now I will build the electric part to drive the motor. I want to drive it smoothly, so it can be fine adjusted. Maybe it can run so slowly I can use it for boring work as a regular power feed. I will wait and see how you will accomplish this modification. Can't wait :D

[@tomlee7966]

fantastic job Ade

[@gregsmith2262]

Runs very smoothly I love it very well done indeed. I am trying to build up the nads top do this myself.

[@davewilliams6172]

Nicely done Ade, hope you are going to show how you modify the PWM for remote switches and potentiometer etc

[@gregsmith2262]

Thank you for sharing kind sir.

[@Mexmanix]

Nice job Ade, the only thing that would baffle me are the electrics & controller set up, I'm not well up on elektrikery at my age, purely mech-a-nickel 😊

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

very good video..thanks for your time

[@TheQuadman200]

Always good quality work

[@samrodian919]

Nice one Ade, I have been doing something similar, on the Y axis of my Warco WMT300 lathe, and was going to go with a stepper to do it but chickened out as I'm too rusty with electronics and I was going down the Arduino route with writing code and all that. But that's too hard for my 67 yo brain so I've gone with a dc motor with worm gearbox mounted on the front of the cross slide and below the saddle. I went with GT 2 belts and pulleys boring them out to fit the handwheel (which I had turned down earlier to use a vee drive belt on but that didn't work) and turned an arbor for the drive pulley. Because I'm using a worm gear you can't turn it by hand so I have made a locking idler on a slot which I can loosen and lock in either toothed belt engaged or loose so I can use cross slide by hand. Looking forward to next video maybe I will upgrade. I've left the front panel big enough to get a Nematode 17 stepper in place of gearbox and motor.

[@keveggy4318]

I'm in a similar situation re the arduino code but, there are quite a few code examples that only need to be copied. Even examples that use lcd feed rates

[@samrodian919]

kev eggy I downloaded the Arduino app from Arduino, and when I try to upload the code I get error coming up even though I copy the code exactly line by line after following a tutorial, I did this a number of times and got the same results so I just gave up and went dc motor route instead. It works really well so I an happy with it.

[@keveggy4318]

@@samrodian919 I'm new to the arduino so will probably have similar problems. The codes that I have loaded so far have all worked in the end. I am assembling the electronics at the moment.....so will let you know.

[@keveggy4318]

If you use a pot with an on off switch combined that is normally closed you don't need a separate switch. The two wires needed from of the push switches on the controller will have different positions on the pcb depending on whether you use common anode or cathode on your driver.

[@josephlovell6951]

Just a FYI for those that are interested ebay has nm 23 closed loop kits as well as ball screws witch is a nice way to cnc your mill or other equipment. Cheers mate

[@warrenmaker798]

Hi Abe, love your videos mate. Looking at copying your layout here, especially for my Z axis. Have you listed the electronic parts you have used, especially the PWM controller. I am not sure exactly wich one i actually need. Thanks again.

[@peterparsons3297]

i used a 12v wiper motor, cheap chinese speed controller and a tumbler gear arrangement for forward , reverse and free

[@daveswain8295]

Very neat job Ade. Looks like you are using the keyless chuck on a straight shank held in the collet chuck?

[@Stefan_Boerjesson]

Greate work! At some time, looking at the shining aluminium, I thought that modifying the construction, only a little bit, You could make Your wife a beautybox for her "tools".

[@Jestey6]

Hi Ade If you haven’t already removed the little switches, be aware that they are soldered in with lead free solder and you will need to increase the temp of your iron to melt it. I will have a look at the settings I used and post them here, when I find them. Mine goes OK, but buzzes if you try to start the motor at a fast speed setting, stepper motors don’t have much torque at high speed. Cheers Noel

[@EDesigns_FL]

Are you satisfied with how the X-axis works manually with the addition of the power feed? I had made a similar power feed, but I was concerned about drive train resistance when manually feeding. So I fabricated a dog clutch to disengage the power feed. You can create a rapid traverse function by adding another potentiometer and DPDT center off toggle switch to your setup.

[@keveggy4318]

I'm leaning towards using an arduino for the direction and speed control.

[@ade63dug]

Hi. Kev . that would be the next step . I am thinking a hybrid manual - cnc going forward . just having fun for the moment . cheers Ade

[@keveggy4318]

@@ade63dug Chinese controller now in the bin. The arduino works as a stand alone device, no computer connected. The code allows for more options. Jog. soft starts etc. and it wires in a lot easier.

[@keveggy4318]

@@ade63dug Just about finished. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXjVeXWXnb-YkLM

[@watahyahknow]

seen a simulair drive made using aluminium box section , its a bit harder to put in or replace the belt but its cheaper material than the thick slabs of aluminium stock he used those stock sized plastic endcaps that you put in there the guy allso mounted the steppermotor on the inside front of the table so you dont hit youre knuckles on the motor when handturning the wheel , dont think theres enough room on the rear of the table without the back of the motor hitting the mast at the end of the tables travel doing at least a 2 axis cnc would be nice to automate complex shapes like slants and large circles cut in youre workpieces

[@keveggy4318]

I've just spent the weekend taking the switch and pot connections off and have to say made a real pigs ear of it. It does work but not happy. surely there must be another stand alone stepper controller that can work on 36v somewhere in the world

[@boostie1005]

The pulse/step modules i have used work on 5 Volts, Stepper Drivers up to 48 Volts that I have used, I leave the pulse module alone except for soldering wires on the Dip switch connections and connecting them to a rotary switch for the Three ranges.and control direction with momentary push buttons and a plug in relay.

[@keveggy4318]

@@boostie1005 What a good idea for the 3 speed ranges...I hadn't thought of that. I wondered if one of those hand held controllers could work that seem to be part of mach set ups.

[@boostie1005]

@@keveggy4318 you can buy a small rotary switch on EBAY I think it was4 position 3 pole no/nc takes a bit of time to find the correct contacts, just looked it up on ebay , they have deleted most of my purchase history, but ebay no 301844345078 looks like what i used, I built quite a few powered topslides to which we fitted a grinding head with a micro switch at the end of travel to reverse direction by using a plug in relay as a flip flop. think about fitting micro switches as these stepper motors are very powerful,

[@keveggy4318]

@@boostie1005 Thank you. Just bought one. If anyone needs their metal casings engraved with 'ON' 'OFF' etc. I can help as I have a fiber laser.

[@davejenner7966]

Ade, consider some limit switches to prevent a crash

[@ade63dug]

i am on it in part 5 , cheers Ade.

[@CraigsWorkshop]

Lovely job Ade. Is that an Ade's Workshop T-shirt that I spy! :-) Where can we buy one of those?

[@ade63dug]

yes I have not got merch yet but I have got hoodies , polo's and baseball caps for myself and giveaways at the moment. I am considering a merch shop, what do you think?

[@CraigsWorkshop]

@@ade63dug I reckon it's a good idea. I have a doubleboost hat, buying something with Ade's workshop on it would be ace. Cheers, Craig

[@thescot1163]

Any limit stops at the end of the bed travel to stop it crashing against the stops?

[@andy6359]

Another great video Ade. Made my sunday. Are you going to fit limit switches to stop crashing into the end of the travel?

[@muzaz]

He should not need to, if he had to crash the stepper motor does not have enough torque to bend anything, it would just stall. I fitted a friction clutch on mine just to be on the safe side.

[@Petrolhead66]

Can you tell me what size pulleys you used and how you adjust the belt tension please

[@keveggy4318]

Hello Ade. Got the power feed working with the Arduino. Variable speed rate, fast and slow traverse and jog. lcd displays what mode you're in and also displays feed rate in mm per second. How to do this on another you tube's page.

[@davidheap5338]

Hi Ade, i rely look forward to your videos, and have been a long time viewer, just a quick question, i am preparing to install a backup generator and was browsing youtube and came across a video on generator changeover switching and i'm sure the guy presenting was you...would i be correct? whats the odds on finding that video !

[@ade63dug]

yes , that would be me.

[@mike111smith7]

Hello Sir, any chance you had a link to the little controller that controls the speed and direction?

[@ade63dug]

all the links in the description of this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHrHdIt9edxjack Cheers Ade.

[@PIERROT47772]

Hello !!! Nema 34 ? ref ?

[@turmct]

Just noticed your bench grinder won't now swing up into position...

[@davidjohnson3164]

You have a real nice arm and elbow

[@stevecallachor]

If you look closely you will see a dropped stitch or two on the right arm elbow. Get you grandmother to reverse the sleeves on your sweater! Stagros

[@jackbacic868]

not meaning to criticize it appears your beds gibb is loose

[@ade63dug]

Hi, Jack . It does appear that way . The camera tripod is stood on the wooden floor of the shed . as I wind the hand wheel my weight transfer to the floor causes the camera to rock in time with the feed. The image stabilisation does it's best but it really does look like a super sloppy gib. It is perfectly set with no readable play. Cheers Ade.