XT / TT / SR 500 cam chain adjust...... HOW TO

[@georgecurtis6463]

I had a 77 tt500. From the manual and guys at the dealer, the rod is just supposed to be lightly moving. If you can see it moving but not excessively then yer good. I rode the heck out of it and dont remember having to ever adjust it.

[@TTGuy]

hello every one......some thing has gone wrong with the comments function. So for the person who wanted to know about my heat shield, it is handmade / homemade, from aluminum sheet (roof skin on delivery trucks). cold rolled and drilled and mounted with two small hose clamps.

[@keithsage7258]

Good for another 40 years.

[@deormanrobey892]

Yamaha service manual says rod should be flush with end of adjuster.

[@Pursang7]

Where did you get that neat yellow heat shield for your exhaust pipe?

[@koltonkinne7291]

How far can it be turned in before the chain needs to be replaced?

[@TTGuy]

You know that's a good question, none of my literature says anything about the adjustment to wear ratio. I am sure there is an actual spec but really don't know, most of the problems I have encountered have been with the adjuster itself not allowing the inner peace to float back and forth. I would maybe throw the question on the thumpertalk forum or the big xt500.co group on Facebook someone will know.

[@groverdog323]

The clearance is actually 0.1mm to 0.2mm NOT 1mm to 2mm. I think clearance is 10 times too much according to the manual. The rod should show only a slight movement.

[@byronortiz7767]

Que función desempeña eso lo que esta indicando xf.

[@TTGuy]

The little window on the side of the cam shows where the optimal starting position is in the engine cycle. As many people have made very obvious it is not the only method of starting, but it is from '77 on the factory suggest method.

[@marksutton8820]

Never gets close enough to see the amount of movement; therefore, add nothing to what's in the manual.

[@hodaka1000]

There is no "mystery" there is no "grey area" except the one you're creating here You do it cold. You remove timing chain adjuster cap, the left side magneto cover and rocker covers and align the "T" mark on the flywheel with the indicator mark on the case with both valves rocking, if they aren't both rocking turn the flywheel 360° to the next stroke so both rockers have movement, that leaves the slack in the timing chain where it should be for the correct adjustment Then unlock the large outer nut and adjust the timing chain adjuster so the small center part is flush with the outer surface of the 10mm nut, check with a straight edge if you're not sure, then hold the 10mm nut and lock the 22mm nut. You would generally then check the valve clearances and if need be do the valve adjustments while the motor is in this same position, then replace the rocker covers and magneto cover Then run the bike and feel for the slight movement in the centre of the timing chain adjuster with your finger Then replace the timing chain adjuster's cap

[@SwormCycles]

YOu are correct. NOt sure why this guy does not address that VERY important detail.

[@hodaka1000]

@@SwormCycles You'd think he'd get a hold of a manual instead of relying on what someone who mustn't really know a lot about it has told him

[@hodaka1000]

@@SwormCycles ...I'd like to see him do an oil change 😃👍

[@pmacc3557]

@@hodaka1000 Dont suppose youd make a quik vid to show us? I get a rattly sound form engine up to 3rd gear lets say (1983 sr 500) but the small centre part looks flush with the outer nut so i dont wana play around with it etc.

[@hodaka1000]

@@pmacc3557 I'm 650ks from my SR at the moment helping mates dry out bikes that went through a flood recently Sometimes the rocker adjusting screws get pits in them, the tips of the valve stems are probably pitted to but by replacing the adjusting screws it can make them sound quieter for a while I've got a tapping noise that can't be adjusted out When I get back to it I'm going to remove the engine and go through it to check it out I'm told the hardening on the cam or rockers can wear away and that could be my problem but my bikes has clocked about 140,000ks It's easy to remove and check the rocker screws and they are generally available and inexpensive Have you tried to adjust the rocker/valve clearances yet ?