Recycle Cardboard into Anything with 3D Printing!

[@XYZAidan]

"cOnGraTuLaTioNs yOu mAdE MDF" 🙄

[@Gendalf-ck4vs]

XYZAidan 😂

[@ivanreyes-ct8fq]

lol

[@prographicarchitecturestud1707]

lmao

[@armfart890]

LMAO

[@aviramiancovici93]

ikea - the making of

[@helion741]

Hmmm. That is actually a very good Idea. I already can imagine for example a plant seeding pots that dissolve in the ground. Maybe with a ferilizer already mixed into the pot itself so it feeds a newly seeded plant.

[@Origamiztec]

Maybe a quadcopter that drops seed-infused pellets made with this material in disaster areas?

[@RastafarianPilgrim]

Those exist, I've had a few of those. Just a little paper pulp cube with some fertilized dirt inside and a seperate chamber for seeds, you just sorta mush it together and plonk it in some soil and water it, the paper dissolves and the seed is fertilized!

[@jparky1972]

@@RastafarianPilgrim Yep! Peat pots, cardboard pots. The DIY way is with egg carton cups.

[@liquidminds]

I've seen paper-based pots before. But usually they are egg-carton-sized, not full pot-sized. I'm not sure how solid the cardboard would stay when watering the plants. There's definitely a limit to that idea.

[@austinbartose6527]

That already exist. What do think that green stuff that road crews spray on the side of the road is?

[@nialltracey2599]

One thing that wasn't mentioned in the video is that this approach inevitably ends up cutting fibres. Chopping the source paper with scissors of a shredder cuts fibres, and throwing the stuff in a blender cuts fibres. This is a known issue in commercial paper recycling -- fibres get cut at every stage. This makes recycling paper less durable than virgin paper. Paper recycling plants make a compromise between the speed of just chopping fibres and the improved durability of keeping fibres intact, and it's more about mashing than blending. If this project had been using a masher, the end result would have lasted a little longer because of the longer fibres.

[@greegorygrimlee5487]

A good long soak helps too. and mould inhibitor or even just cloves to stop it getting mouldy and stinking.

[@Zacoban29]

Fair feedback, I hadn't even considered fibres. Any ideas on how to "mash" rather then "blend" at a DIY level?

[@nialltracey2599]

@@Zacoban29 I'm not an expert in paper processing by even the wildest stretch of the imagination, but I reckon that you probably want to tear the card into strips, the put them in a long continuous soak with a slow continuous stir to start encouraging the fibres to come loose. Note that commercial paper production often makes long rolls of paper/card just for the sake of efficiency in the machines. This means that the longest fibres can get stretched out in the same direction. When you start tearing a bit it can often reveal the weakest direction, and copying that means you might be able to minimise the number of fibres cut, improving the final output.

[@ShadowoftheDude]

To make them waterproof after moulding you can coat them with a drying oil, like the ones used in oil painting. Linseed oil, hemp oil, soybean oil, tung oil, walnut, poppy, and more!

[@kiwihuman]

went to the comments section to find a waterproofing solution now i know

[@goner9696]

This deserves a pin!

[@mayurmahale3049]

It wouldn't be water proof but water resistant. Using a phenolic resin will probably make it completely waterproof

[@ShadowoftheDude]

@@mayurmahale3049 With one coat, no, it would not be fully waterproof, because it will be absorbed into the fibres. However, with multiple coats (allowed to fully dry, which would take 24 hrs at least), or with a sizing underneath (like starch glue, shellac, gellatin), it will become fully waterproof. An alternative is to coat it with a natural resin varnish after the oil. Yes, a phenolic resin, or any other synthetic coating, would render it waterproof immediately. But I recommended drying oils because in the video they explicitly said they wanted an environmentally friendly finish.

[@mayurmahale3049]

@@ShadowoftheDude ah. What I meant wasn't dip resistance but soak resistance. But yeah for low duty applications drying oils will work quite well.

[@A_Simple_Neurose]

Super late to the party but vibrating the mold while inserting the pulp should help close gaps that would form inside the pulp due to water pockets and thus increase durability.

[@funposting8912]

“I didn’t do any quantifiable tests of their strength, but I did hit one of them with a hammer a bunch of times” Why would I want any other test data at all?

[@stenapproved7684]

THIS

[@Patrick_Cooper]

It works for me. If I can't break it with a hammer, then it is something that might, just might survive my teenage boys....

[@rachidhf4579]

He showed you the proces, so you can make an test whatever you want. Don't be lazy

[@jadesparrowx]

Ayy like #420

[@europhil2000]

My first thought, too. But then I was like: CNC Kitchen...!

[@Jimscoolstuff]

Great video. Corrugated cardboard already has water soluble adhesive in it (usually corn starch or sodium silicate). If you save the water that you squeeze out , you can use it for your next batch. This will allow the use of less added adhesive.

[@pixelpatter01]

Sodium Silicate or "Water Glass" is used as an agent in paper and cardboard but it is a one time use chemical. After the sodium silicate is exposed to the air it reacts with the small amount of CO2 in the air to form silicon dioxide and sodium carbonate. The silicon dioxide, chemically the same as sand, now binds the paper fibers together.

[@StoneAndersonStudio]

@@pixelpatter01 I believe you- but do you have a source for this information? I was arguing with someone recently about if dried sodium silicate is safe to breathe, as I thought it contained SiO2 (respirable crystalline silica) like you’re saying. Thanks!

[@pixelpatter01]

@@StoneAndersonStudio I learned about sodium silicate from a chemistry set I got for Christmas when I was ten years old. You can search the net for references to it and CO2 curing of sand molds. Using CO2 sources speeds things up but even air will harden a paper wet with the solution overnight because of the .04% CO2. I suppose the silica formed could be a respiratory hazard but then again so could walking on the beach. Just about any type of dust is bad if inhaled.

[@lalanirhythmchanter5566]

But then, without the ability to calculate the math of the exact measurable amounts aka ratios, the perfect blend if u will won't be achieved every time right ?

[@D.B..]

Make ammo for toy guns, like nerf, so that after an outdoor battle, any rounds left behind would eventually decompose. Perhaps you could infuse the pulp with nutrients/fertilizer for something like a seedling starter pot that can be directly planted in the ground.

[@jeroenritmeester73]

I'm not sure about the feasibility of these ideas, but I love the creativity!

[@TheNightwalker247]

I would skip the fertilizer but the idea is quite good. Including the right kind of mycorizae for the seedling would be even better. Or just use plants that are pioneer plants and don't need any help getting started. If there was paper bb for airsoft that fly good is probably to hard

[@raphaelmorgan2307]

in the first case you'd probably have to do something to make sure it's not too dense because I think in some cases, these would really hurt! 😅

[@timmbot6082]

They've used something similar for replanting trees in difficult to reach places. They're air-dropped tree bombs essentially. lol

[@huffmancollins614]

Decomposable ammo was the first thing that came to my head too

[@johannesvetter4522]

The triangle mesh looks perfekt for these sound reducing wall panels

[@perenis-z9r]

Yeah, you could recycle egg cartons to mould into new egg cartons for the walls :)

[@lazar.vision]

@@perenis-z9r exactly

[@maxzett]

​@@perenis-z9r or you just used the egg Kartons without any Modifikation :D

[@perenis-z9r]

@ I was trying to insinuate that point

[@nistarok123]

@@perenis-z9r Unfortunately, egg cartons have very poor sound dampening performance, despite how they look. I'm pretty sure there's a video somewhere out there of someone making a comparison.

[@UltimatePerfection]

100 BC: Making paper out of wood. 2020 AD: Making wood out of paper

[@zyriab5797]

My man!

[@kris_crafter]

The history of paper is fascinating. Papyrus was the first paper-like writing material in Egypt made from reeds around 8 to 10 thousand years ago. I don't know when rice paper in Japan was invented. Bamboo was used in China. In the European Middle Ages linen rags were pounded into pulp for very high quality paper. With the colonization of America the same was done with cotton. Paper from wood is relatively recent. Also the same pulp used for paper has been mixed with glue and sawdust to make a wood-like composition for at least 200 years.

[@100acatfishandwillbreakyou2]

@@kris_crafter Sounds too complex, I prefer a rock and a burnt stick. Nothing beats rock and burnt stick.

[@sneaky_krait7271]

@@kris_crafter Could make that composition with this cardboard pulp too then.

[@intelgen7860]

There's no BC and AC like you've been taught. Sorry.

[@brba]

I have extensive training in making pulp, and this is a really nice idea! In the industry the cutting of fibers is kept to a minimum to keep strength and properties in the pulp, so please skip the blender and shredder. Tear big chunks, let it soak and mix it with a paint stirrer or the like.

[@paintedwings74]

Length of fibers is an ideal thing for cohesion, but I'd think that the compression would be difficult to maintain, as the original fibers would have something like "memory" and your end product would start fraying just a bit at the edges along the original edges of component cardboard? What I have had good luck with when making paper logs for burning is soaking our paper for a while until it's thoroughly soggy. Then the blender step need not take very long, which I would guess leaves far more long fibers in place compared with having to shred it from dry, still-coherent cardboard /paper.

[@averageXIAOHONGSHUenjoyer]

wouldn't it be better to create a mesh inside the material? f.e. mix the mold with longer fibres, f.e. hemp strands which in turn would improve the flexibility and rigidity of the end product

[@717379]

prallund feucht I like this idea. Mixed fibres and materials have been traditionally used to achieve strength and resilience (for instance, horse hair was widely used to reinforce plaster when making walls)

[@brba]

@@paintedwings74 The fibers doen't have any memory, the longer the fibers the stronger the material. In paper and pulp making long fibers are used for strength, shorter for volume and density. In recycled paper the ratio is already off to the shorter side so it is essential to keep the length.

[@paintedwings74]

@@brba Thanks for the info.

[@kalinaszek]

I'm a material engineer and can say it's really interesting! Especially the fact it isn't too flammable. For water resistant maybe try wax or PLA layer.

[@tanakadingdong9170]

PLA has little holes they can be seen with a microspcope. To be waterproof it must be sanded and covered. Add screws to the 3d printed mold. I love this idea to ship small parts in a special letter having the size of a book, covered with plastic for shipping. DJI drones are shiped like this.

[@MrChris20912]

Many ways to make it water resistant, a little linseed oil can do that, but there are many reasons not to make it water *proof* the first of which is this makes it unable to break down naturally. There are currently some bio-based resins which can water seal cellulosic material like this, but in order to break the molecular bonds of the resin, the object would need to be soaked in formaldehyde for a specific amount of time. Again, lots of ways to to make it water resistant enough to be useful in daily life without wrapping it in a plastic seal.

[@tripplep1815]

@@MrChris20912 hey that sounds interesting! What kind of bio based resins would make it warerproof for lets say a week… or maybe waterproof to a certain point of humidity??

[@MrChris20912]

@@tripplep1815 the simplest, though not actually a resin, would be Casein - milk proteins. Also, they don't break down fast, but were the original "plastic" material prior to oil based plastics. The other I was thinking of, I'll have to dig a little to find a reference for. I do remember an announcement several years ago, I believe it was in relation to a Ecovative coming product - they make mycelium based products. There was a resin company they partnered with to create these bio-resins for fishing net floats as well as swimming boards. The core would be mycelium and the outside coated with resin. Then, at end of life for the product, it could be immersed in another solution to break down the resin bonds, so the resin and mycelium could then decompose naturally. If I can find the link I'll post here again.

[@MrJakson112]

pla is plastic dude

[@ekner]

Loving the rice binder and the overall focus on compostability!

[@lucygoosie7726]

But you have to make the molds out of plastic, which uses more plastic than just buying a plastic container, or even 3D printing one. I understand that you can make many paper objects from one mold, but he did mention how the process is hard on the molds, so they probably don’t last long, and it’s unlikely that someone will make a whole bunch of the same objects anyway, unless they are selling them.

[@patrybc8843]

When youtube makes good recommendations

[@zakuro8532]

Indeed your vocal Majesty

[@MakeSomething]

Holy cow! I randomly watch this video and see a shout out to me! Well done my friend!

[@XYZAidan]

Thanks so much!! And likewise for your video, couldn't have made this without it :)

[@Therapistinthewhitehouse]

Google’s all seeing algorithm is always watching. 👀

[@GenuineNPC]

This is so pure 🥲

[@thedragon8989]

"I tried to make useful things" "Topographical map of San Antonio" What are you, a sniper? XD Super cool tho. Gonna try it myself sometime.

[@noahhastings6145]

You know too much Mr. Epstein.

[@DialecticRed]

I would like but there are 777 right now and I think that's cool

[@dnyaneshwardarade6120]

I think you are a sniper (can be in games)

[@atharvabedarkar]

And next thing you know is he's making a sniper out of recycled paper..

[@rosemarymcbride3419]

When i worked in a paper making studio all of our raw material got presoaked, this helped us control the ratio of cellulose to water that we needed to pull sheets of various weights. Might require a bit more putzing to figure out what ratio is right for any given mold, so I'd suggest establishing an idea density for a finished piece and try and work backwards from there to calibrate that ratio. As for using a hydraulic press, i'd say only use it if you want to scale up. In the studio I worked in we used hydraulic presses only when we had at least 50-100 sheets pulled (and we were a small shop). If you're interested in exploring water proofing maybe look into wax. Again it will take some experimenting because most fibrous mediums being wax coated are flat. If this kind of production were to be scaled you'd also need to invest in a good dehumidifier. Lots of organic matter and water can get pretty funky smelling and controlling mold in the work space is a constant battle

[@BarryBranton]

Here's an idea: Put a seed in the middle of a cube. Let dry. Then the "seed cube" can be planted. Test the results.

[@kripto999]

Damn nice idea

[@mibars]

Plant cups, made out of paper pulp, much like an egg-carton are in common use. You don't need thick cardboard walls to hold a bit of dirt with a seed.

[@emu071981]

@@mibars I actually have like 40 seed cups sitting here from a promotion by a supermarket chain here in Australia. They look like the biodegradable paper forms that a lot of computer manufacturers use for their packing materials.

[@thelocksmithguy5468]

This already happens commercially.. they are called "pelleted" seeds.. so that even tiny seeds can be machine sown.

[@punkinhaidmartin]

@@thelocksmithguy5468 I like your idea because you can plant the seeds from an airplane, and include fertilizer.

[@Popesta]

great idea for custom postage packaging for mailing fragile objects! Thanks!!

[@TheStijnw]

Nice idea indeed.

[@wezzelinator]

As light as dry wood, as durable as plastic. The hammer test also showed that it deformed! Great idea.

[@aidenmac3797]

Wow, you found out how to make a light, strong material that is fire resistant, can be made at home, and is biodegradable. Pretty amazing for a material made of boxes.

[@alexmcfly31415]

@PK Cazadores Not really, cardboard or paper is usually very flammable, this isn't. Plus thay don't make cardboard in those shapes.

[@APioneerInTheSeaOfStars]

@@alexmcfly31415 Just my two cents but anything can be flammable. You could use a file/sand and get small powder particles from the cardboard-molded part and put a flame to it, and it (the thin/small particles) will quickly catch fire. Things are just less flammable in general when the object has 1. less surface area 2. is much denser 3. more volume which gives greater heat capacity and a better means to transfer heat away from the hot surface. Only the surface (and not the inside) has a means to catch on fire because fire requires oxygen as fuel, its very difficult to get a block to maintain a fire, it just takes more time to bring up the heat of the object to keep the steady flame. Its mostly about the shape, hence why powdered metal is highly combustible and must be stored safely. Speaking of powdered metal, that's how 3D printing works for metal printing, as metal powder can quickly reach its flash point and melt. Powder metal companies' goal is to make the most spherical powder.

[@xathridtech727]

I'm curious if you can use saw dust or at least a portion of saw dust

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

@@alexmcfly31415 Density is a key to flamability.

[@GodzillaGoesGaga]

@@xathridtech727 MDF. That's exactly what they use but add glue to it.

[@VetsrisAuguste]

Back in the 1980’s my mother used a similar method for making various elements in her crafting practice. Of course, the 3D printer wasn’t involved but the pulp making and the molding process were definitely the same.

[@vbsargent]

Great video! For water proofing - try coating in beeswax or parrafin. May even be possible to infuse the wax into the paper.

[@lBonaCl]

There's the problem that at that point you are basically making firestarter blocks, which are basically a block of cardboard with wax in it that burns off. But otherwise it is a solid idea.

[@TuomasKuosmanen]

@@lBonaCl Actually, custom-shaped firestarter blocks would be pretty cool. While you are right, that it is something to be aware of if you do *not* plan to start a fire, this could be a cool craft project to sell at a school fundraiser for example. Make donut-shaped firestarters with wax "icing" for example :-)

[@JohnKlosner]

What happens if you did the opposite of sustainable and Eco friendly. Would waterproof wood glue work as a binder?

[@bipolarchemist]

It would probably end up as waterproof as MDF as this is a version of fiberboard. For a truly waterproof and stable substance, I'd probably try to coat/infuse it with resin similar to resin stabilized wood. Or just spray it with a sealant/varnish.

[@Popesta]

@@bipolarchemist that might not agree with your molds though, you would have to wax them well to stop the resin from sticking.Actually you would have to sand them super smooth and wax them as well.

[@guwuse]

9:10 *with this method you can recycle them into something other than an egg carton* [puts an egg in it]

[@gregdabrat]

egg carton ception

[@willemkossen]

So the egg came first after all...

[@GEOsustainable]

HAHAHAHAHAHA, yes he did!

[@SocialAlexNYC]

I need that single egg container for a project. Seriously. And I don't want to make it as I'm not a maker. @xyzaidan, can I contact you?

[@shewmonohoto]

Ok... I'll admit, this gave me an artboner... I got bored with my 3d-printer almost a year ago, now I have an urge to get it up and running! Thanks Aidan!

[@DeoxysAttackmode]

Did you get your art boner up after all? 🤓🥸🙂‍↔️ (your words not mine) @shewmonohoto

[@RubenKelevra]

If you want to coat it, use linseed oil and beeway 50:50 (volume) mixed, heated in a pod and either dip it or just use a spoon to spread it on the surface roughly and then use an electric iron (those without holes) to bubble out some water and replace it with oil and wax mix. This works very well for wood, and should work here as well. After around two weeks the linseed oil has penetrated as much as it will long term, and you can scrape off the excess wax/oil mix and wipe any excess off with an old cloth.

[@jasonstraurss6974]

I work in logistics for a 3d printing company, needless to say this was a huge idea promoting video, thanks for the awesome upload

[@screaminscott]

You could try to incorporate paraffin or even beeswax to make them water resistant.

[@lukewarmmizer]

Or a coat of paint or PLA. It does detract from it being 100% compostable but would still be far superior to making the entire object out of plastic.

[@louisvictor3473]

@@lukewarmmizer PLA is compostable, it just takes longer "at home" than on a composting facility (6 months vs 1-3 months). What it doesn't seem to do very well (though I haven't found a proper paper or proper commentary on a paper with actual numbers) is to naturally biodegrade, and it definitely has a horribly bad time decomposing on a regular landfill (no surprise there, even organics don't decompose well on those things, it is almost as if they're not great solutions for trash)

[@awellner3285]

@@louisvictor3473 PLA is not compostable at home. The industrial composting requires the PLA to be at 60 degrees celcius for months with just the right micro organism. Micro organisms that arent commen in nature. Though it can be burned in a carbon neutral cycle. Infact burning PLA generates less CO2 than composting it industrially.

[@louisvictor3473]

@@awellner3285 Hence "at home", because it is not trivial. But even with relatively simple methods, some research and planing you can make hot compost piles that reach just about that temperature, which in turn can be used for the process even if at sub optimal pacing, assuming you don't try anything fancier. I am not sure where you're getting the idea those microorganisms aren't common, though. None of the sources I've found seem to allude to it being that hard to come across, or that you require too specialized organisms. Here is some people talking about their own experience doing it greensxm.com/composting-pla-plastic/ , as an example.

[@sulfuro0503]

Dude that´s a great advise. I´m starting a proyect with this method.

[@roykinn7]

Such a great idea, I've been designing 3D printed molds for casting concrete items for a few years now but this opens a new door for me with so many new possibilities. Thanks so much for sharing!!

[@XYZAidan]

Thank you!

[@TheRainHarvester]

Roykinn7, I'd love to see your creations!

[@roykinn7]

@@TheRainHarvester if you search KZbin for RB Concreteworks you'll find a timelapse I did for my Etsy shop. You can find my shop under the same name, but I only have two planters up on it currently. Who knew designing and making products is much more fun and feels like much less work than setting up photo shoots, writing marketing copy, and dealing with Etsy publishing??

[@dxfvgyhjh]

@@roykinn7 how is the shop going?

[@judithsanders9801]

From the mid-19th century up through the 1930s many toys & other items were made of "composition" - a mix of pulp, sawdust, chalk or plaster, & various glues. Look up composition dolls. Parts were pressed or poured in molds of plaster of paris (like casting ceramic) or in heated metal molds. The parts were finished with gesso, varnish, and/or durable paint. Experiment.

[@riverdance2004]

Hi Aidan, my son asked me to watch this video and I have to say I was very impressed. It is very interesting what you have discovered with cardboard. My son also has a 3-D printer and wants to explore more information on your channel. Also the way you explained it was very easy to understand and follow. You sound very intelligent. Anyway I like what you produced and I really think there can be A lot more ideas put into. Thank you very much for your effort❣️ Greetings from Germany 🇩🇪🍀

[@JohnPorsbjerg]

This is really clever and I’m glad you mentioned the fact that you use rice pulp instead of glue!

[@CarlStreet]

Excellent lighting, good sound, good scripting and editing, clear, concise, and informative -- Well Done, Sir!

[@XYZAidan]

Thank you sir!

[@MoLassessss]

I agree

[@ControlledWrinkles]

There was an artist back in the 80’s in Santa Cruz that made some huge paper molded sculptures using giant vacuum tables to remove the moisture.

[@leftblank]

What an amazing project! Also I really loved this video, the way you explained your findings, showed what happened with videos and talked through the failings/limitations was great. Thank you! I could see this being used to make sound proofing squares, each time you get together enough boxes you make a new square and add to a wall over time!

[@DTyrannosaurus]

Love it! I’ve been doing both paper making and 3D printing for years, and this never occurred to me. Great for custom packaging. Wholesome, messy fun. :)

[@adrenalinemedia]

Great video. You inspired me to design an eco-friendly packing solution for one of our products which is held in place with a plastic part. I will try to replace that now with a recycled paper solution. Nice work!

[@dougjohnson9796]

I hope you don't give up, and yes, maybe you can change the application for one product, and then that spreads, and you're off and running . . . good luck with your efforts.

[@sgtjitters8980]

How'd it work out?

[@Dennis.379]

I also wonder how your packing solution is working because I am thinking of doing the same thing? My first thought is adding ice to the mixing phase, then putting it under a vacuum to dry faster.

[@janet.snakehole]

🎉🎉🎉

[@slartibartfast7921]

👏🏻

[@kb3cxe]

I'm very happy to see someone doing something with cardboard other than throwing it in the trash. Thank you for a great video.

[@GRichardWrotten]

This is how a lot of old carnival props were made back in Italy up through the 70s or 80s. They hand pressed the giant sculptures. I would love to do this for props in Mardi Gras today.

[@tomeberhard74]

Hey, thanks for making the video! One application could be soundproofing material, for example for audiophile people who want to improve the acoustics of their listening room. Doesn't have to be waterproof, and if you print a cool topographic map, it could be artsy and functional.

[@lukearts2954]

actually, it IS already used for that, but with the help of this video, people could make their own custom tiles :)))

[@michaelsorensen7567]

Me: is completely ignorant Also me: don't they usually use foam instead of fiber product?

[@sleepdeep305]

@@michaelsorensen7567 Well wood has been used for centuries because of its acoustic properties, and you'll find that such products are actually very common in the audio industry. Although this material is not wood, it is very similar, and would be adequate for acoustic applications.

[@michaelsorensen7567]

@@sleepdeep305 thanks for the input. I thought the primary purpose of these kinds of blocks was sound *dampening*, rather than tone, so I was really confused. Your comment made me think of Treebeard on Lord of the rings where they recorded the actor's voice through a wooden tube to get a rich woody tone, so it's possible you could use these similarly.

[@hutarian]

The recycled paper panels are called Homosote and are available in 4x8 sheets at a lumber store. We sand the surface and use it as a giant board to pin up art work and sketches. It is commonly used as a sound barrier though.

[@renk872]

You're a thinker, keep at it man. The world needs more people like you.

[@livemyw0rld]

This is the coolest my dude. I hope you go far with this endeavor and reap all the rewards along the way. By the time I figure out recycling plastic, for 3D printing, seems you'll have the template for recycling all my paper recycling need. This is the future culture we need to keep curating, and I'm glad you're a part of it.

[@calysagora3615]

Sounds cool, do you document your work somewhere?

[@livemyw0rld]

​@@calysagora3615 Not right now, a little too busy with other recycling projects. Currently making a pretty nice, mostly recycled, raised (4'x8') garden bed from pallets and trashed furniture. As you can probably guess, I'm a little behind this season lol

[@elfenmagix8173]

Great video! As for water proofing, treat it like wood: shellac and varnish. Then oil/epoxy paint to your liking.

[@Cainitech]

Hey! The mechanic process to remove the water and set up it into the format you want remembers me the way my grandpa used to make ham: Instead of pressing it with fixed length (like you did with the clamps), he used rocks and gravity. So, as long as the content (in your case, paper, in his case meat) is being pressed, the water is removed, but the pressure is still being applied. It's a simple test, maybe it worth the try

[@TheNormalUniverse]

"I haven't done any quantifiable test of the strength, but I did hit one with a hammer" golden! Great project I'm inspired.

[@HaleTruman]

Love that you mentioned organic as a quality right into the video. I’m trying to eliminate plastics but 3-D printing is so useful. This is really cool.

[@Arkane117]

This would be good to use for making the insides of custom cases for things like camera, drones, gu,s, etc. This can be used instead of foam.

[@modprog]

Valve actually uses something like this for packaging

[@LuxurioMusic]

I just remembered a studio called Dear Human made a collection of recycled paper tiles to be used as a wall covering. I just checked out their website and they've done more projects with paper.

[@jones1618]

Nice find. Someone above suggested this 3D molding technique could be used to make acoustic tiles. Dear Human says their testing shows paper tiles to absorb as well as some acoustic foam. www.dearhuman.ca/papertile/

[@Deqster]

Gonna make my own paper plates now... out of my old paper plates...

[@Shazbud]

Don't eat anything wet off of them.

[@lifeof-sj5wg]

he can if he coats it in beewax

[@PokeNebula]

He wants to eat paper

[@willwallacetree]

Czechnology has beaten you to the punchline. Here is an awesome instructional video, you'll love it 😁 kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y2HUaqeCm9mBgck

[@Amipotsophspond]

And that sandwich you're eating is made of old discarded sandwiches. Fry: "The future is disgusting."

[@wayne-ingraham]

Fantastic work! This is the type of idea that can help inspire really positive changes in how we look at paper, it's pulp and how it might be harnessed to cut down on waste or use of less degradable materials such as plastic.

[@Nasiputut]

The process of enabling people to "do it yourself" at home can even win him a place in a sciences or innovative exhibition/competition

[@guily6669]

Don't really know where You guys from but this is actually just common knowledge where I live since in School on mandatory arts class we did the same, all sorts of paper + blender + water + white wood glue, then just either press into a mold or use it as is for manual object recreation and in the end I think we used either glue or wood varnish to make it stay against water... Anyway I had way more fun with clay, hated was plaster that we needed to make face masks to each other, it was beyond annoying.

[@orange-micro-fiber9740]

This is awesome! I've gotta try this. The molding technique with paper allows for rapid prototyping and then final products can be done in silicone or something.

[@LindyDesignLab]

I think that just 3D printing the final part would be the rapid prototyping. Printing a strong mold would probably take more time and plastic than printing the test object itself.

[@Xenro66]

We absolutely need an update to this lmao. This video is incredible.

[@onnaquest]

A mold idea that comes to mind is to create voids for connecting pieces together as tiles. You could fill a a small pipe with pulp to create a rod that could be cut into small lengths to be used as dowels for connecting them. Diy acoustic wall treatment sounds pretty rad! Nice work!

[@onnaquest]

Wow 4 years ago. I guess I'll have to look and see where you went with this. I've only recently been discovering paper clay stuff. Very interesting

[@hotaru8309]

Safety Tip: Always wash the egg cartons, before reuse as salmonella lives on the egg's shell. Small amounts can be present that won't make you sick eating the inside of the egg and boiling eggs usually kills these smaller amounts. A quick wash with hot water or just a little soap will kill any lingering salmonella, especially important if you use that blender for foods again in the future.

[@fabricatio8821]

Shellac is one of the oldest waterproofing coatings in history used on wood. It's plant-based (Toxicodendron vernicifluum) and would be a nice post process for this material. Excellent video!

[@jeffspaulding9834]

I second the shellac suggestion. It's a good waterproofing solution (although it dissolves in alcohol) and it's completely natural. However, if you buy shellac you're almost certainly not getting something from toxicondendron vernicifluum. You're probably getting lac bug secretions. Mix them with alcohol (or buy it premixed in a can) and you've got a relatively durable waterproof finish. There's a million tutorials on the 'net for working with this stuff and it's easy and safe. Lacquer from toxicondendron vernicifluum is not easy or safe (at least until it's cured, after which it's food-safe). It's like painting with poison ivy. It requires a lot of practice to apply properly and almost everyone has a horrible allergic reaction (again, think poison ivy - it's the same chemical) to the uncured stuff. It also takes a long time to apply, as you generally do quite a few thin coats, each of which has to fully cure before you move to the next coat. If you mess it up, you run the risk of giving anyone that touches it a horrible rash. Traditional lacquer isn't seen much outside of Asia - mostly because we have synthetic stuff that is very much not environmentally friendly but is a whole lot easier to work with. The stuff you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot will be synthetic lacquer. Shellac and lacquer are two terms that get very confused, mostly due to their shared history, the way they're written in Sanskrit, and the way "lac" sounds like "lacquer" in English.

[@GryffenHanson]

You are confusing two different kinds of finishes. What you are describing when referring to the plant based qualities of (Toxicodendron vernicifluum) is actually Lacquer. Shellac is a different kind of finish made from the shells of the Lac bug, is not plant-based, and must be dissolved in an alcohol in order to be administered. They both create a polymerized wood finish, but they are not the same, and have different consistencies and properties. Hopefully this is helpful :)

[@MrJakson112]

natural and plant-based doesn not mean biodigradable

[@kbee225]

Toxicodendron. As the name suggests. Lacquer is toxic.

[@readoryx373]

Both are synthesized unless specified, most everywhere, at this point

[@ornotermes]

When he showed the triangle mesh I saw acoustic panels.

[@ornotermes]

@Lance Anthony Yeah, but I would want to make them at a reasonable size, like 20x20 cm or larger so I suspect it would take a lot more force to press them, maybe steel plates would be needed to spread the pressure.

[@JohnKlosner]

I'm not sure how that would work as he did say multiple times that it has the consistency of hard plastic.

[@ornotermes]

@@JohnKlosner First off I'm no expert, but I think it's possible but maybe not as efficient as if it was soft materials (and maybe you can affect that too by not packing the mass super hard). I think it should be possible to use deflection and destructive interference, almost anything should be better than concrete walls. Take a look at Vicoustic Multifuser Wood MKII.

[@octapc]

@@ornotermes drive over them with your car

[@ornotermes]

@@octapc That's worth a try at least, I might be able the get a few hundred kilos. Hydralic presses usually start out at few tons. At least by doing it outside I wouldn't have to deal with the water runoff.

[@lilbohbeat5785]

This is absolutely fantastic! I’m thoroughly impressed: not only is this technique incredibly useful and obviously effective, but seeing your process and technique development is fascinating... entirely impressive, awe-inspiring - inspiring as a whole! Watch out for this guy, people... this is my first time coming across his content, but mark my words: he’s going places. I foresee massive things coming from that motivation and mind in the future... this is the kind of human who’s capable of ground-breaking ideas, discoveries, and inventions, with worldwide impact. 🤷🏻‍♀️Like I said, I guess... I’m impressed.

[@eastendyves]

That's high praise!

[@chasebrower7816]

This is awesome! I expected the resulting molds to be very weak and only usable for decoration--and they look to be many times stronger than the original cardboard they were made from! Very impressive

[@Jawst]

❤Your video was one of the first that got Me Hooked about a year or two ago on paper pulp packaging 😂 so I basically developed my own style similar to how Hewlett-Packard make paper pulp packaging! Last year I tried sharing information about it on 3D printing forums and Facebook groups and paper packaging groups but absolutely nobody was interested I'm shocked because it's an amazingly easy process and literally costs just a few pence to make the moulds! A few days ago I started uploading some old basic short videos and will upload some more of my processing soon! Basically I just print a 8 mm thick mould without walls. Like a shell... I then print a cap for the mould with a vacuum attachment hole. I simply plunge the mould into paper pulp mixture with the vacuum running and then pull it out after 3 to 5 seconds, I then wiggle it about a bit (upsidedown) to remove all the water from inside the mould. I then remove the vacuum pipe and I use a short sharp blow 🌬 into it to demould the pulp! Then dry for just 12hours in the sun! The moulds are on average about 3 to 5 mm thick! Lol I always put flower petals into my moulds to make them look pretty😂 I've also experimented quite a lot using activated charcoal to remove any cardboard smells and storage smells. So far I have made a number of mould patterns that I use on a regular basis for posting sold items and storing food❤ I could literally talk about paper pulp packaging for days on end😂 I think one of the biggest issues people might have is from over blending the paper pulp mixture as I found it will easily block up the mould structure. I found a way around this by using screen printing mesh which is extremely cheap from China... then using a soldering iron to melt the Nylon mesh onto the 3D printed part, creating a perfectly smooth surface to make de moulding extremely easy My most useful items are food trays which can be waterproofed using paraffin wax ( this is a food safe wax that is used on a lot of food products like fruit). I've also made plant pot packaging for sending live plants in the post, packaging for small glass squares and egg trays for my extra large duck eggs!

[@MrBerndout79]

One of the best instruction videos, answered all my pulp questions including the rice glue solution

[@Walsfeo]

Great video. If the object is dense enough a baker's rack, or other kind of wire rack might be better for drying so it dries more evenly. Also, if it needs to be a little more water resistant you can coat with a varnish or even perhaps integrate a varnish into the mixing process. Which lowers the ecological benefit a bit, but still helps you repurpose carboard waste.

[@EnraEnerato]

Funny thing is I remember a process where they did something like this with wood chips etc. and then had fungi grow on the fibres afterwards they heattreated them and dried them out boom, biodegradable styrofoam replacement, heavy duty one at that. No glue involved, I wonder what would happen when we apply the fungi to your dense paper packaging? kzbin.info/www/bejne/d3TScmmsiqlgnpo And one more where they try to replace plastics and rubber with mushrooms: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJ-wiXtridakfZo

[@MrMerlinSTail]

Also waterproof, fire-retardant and removed the shrinking problem

[@_Gabyo_]

Omg styrofoam is the worst. I wish this method becomes the norm.

[@paintedwings74]

Yep, I grow oyster mushrooms for fun, for disposal of coffee grains, and incidentally for food. The mycellium go on about their business with no regard for when I want mushrooms, since I don't care to trigger them into a bloom that often; so I often end up with sheets or masses of fungus-flesh that can be amazingly waterproof. I literally can't water my fungus through the exterior layer it puts up. And even if that's not how you go to replace a styrofoam or other project need--it's a hell of a good way to lock carbon into place.

[@ethantang4193]

You got me at "if you're still watching at this point"

[@xyztnce]

I remember making a lens wide angle adapter using this technique. Just dipped newspapers scraps in water n hand mashed them and shaped with hand. It hardened in a few days and lasted long time. It was long time ago. Now u took it to next level.

[@onesadtech]

Very cool idea, and professionally presented. I was blown away by how tough the resulting parts were, that hammer test may not have been scientific, but it was dang impressive.

[@gerikempa372]

Made building blocks for children from your idea. Thank you.

[@stefanschmidt5186]

with a little bit of food color ... wow amazing idea! i steal it ;)

[@thepermman]

That's awesome

[@angelorf]

How to make children from blocks?

[@prakharmishra3000]

@@angelorf 🤣😭

[@GEOFF0906]

@@angelorf Or blocks from children😁

[@metalje666]

the triangle mesh and sign wave mesh could work great as a studio foam alternative ! someone needs to try that !

[@spacemax1744]

Your delivery is good and you are precise and to the point. Thank you for making this video and for the guide too

[@poolec404]

Shellac is a natural resin (bug secretions!) -- also used for staining wood. Would be perfect.

[@XYZAidan]

Excellent idea!

[@nc3826]

@@XYZAidan Damn he beat me to it..... But may I suggest looking into "papercrete" add 3 parts of natural cellulose pulp to 2 parts clay or 1 part of Roman cement (hydrated lime) and mix. There 100s of binders and different coating you can use... We all just inventing the wheel but its fun to come up tiny variations and ancient concepts.... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Papercrete en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shellac Have fun....

[@joncue0304]

If you want to make it easier to take out of the mold, you can add a draft angle to the mold, just like injection molding.

[@GnuReligion]

Yes, the rules for injection molding will apply. I purpose planters, like Peat Pots, as a practical product.

[@Roman-Sedykh]

this is not possible because of the part that presses paper inside the mold. in process some paper will be trapped between walls of those two parts.

[@ronnetgrazer362]

So basically, only use these slanted walls in areas where the pressing part of the mold doesn't need to plunge past. It's those deeper lying nooks that would benefit most from this, so it's all good.

[@robertgrindley8234]

"I'm going to show you how you can use a vice, a blender and a 3D printer to turn this cardboard into any shape you can imagine" Forgive me for doubting you, oh great algorythm, but how the fuck did I get here?

[@MatCatSoft]

The desk organizer really gives me the idea of designing packaging for shipping custom things like delicate 3D prints, or low volume production goods, etc.

[@XYZAidan]

Thank you all for 1 million views! I seriously never imagined that this video would get so much attention :)

[@MoonManMoon]

Can you please make an update video on this subject and any further innovations you discovered with this? I am extremely intrigued by this and want to learn more from you.

[@mylow89]

i think this should be some insight if the importance of your topic here. i as a Canadian am very concerned about the waste i produce as a consumer, but more importantly as a aspiring entrepreneur, i am really interested in making my own product packaging that is biodegradable. you mention at end of video about water resistant coatings which is the last detail that i would like to see get hammered out. wish i could help but it will probably be another year before i could make any progress gains for this idea. if you happen to accomplish this or even just do progress report video on a biodegradable water resistant coating for cardboard, i am quite sure you will have another BIG hit video for your channel.

[@hawkeye7856]

nor did I , but here I am 10 minutes later good stuff

[@mylow89]

been thinking about the waterproofing idea some more as i came across the information of ducks spreading an oil from a gland onto their feathers to water proof them. so, perhaps trying to find a biodegradable oil or wax substance that cures and leaves no residue on contact would probably be the best idea going forward with the waterproofing idea. i have been trying to research for something that fits this idea and google led me to otter wax or beeswax, it wont be for many months till i even think about doing this myself.

[@JP-xd6fm]

@@mylow89 What if you mix a part of clay?, the one that needs highg temp to cure is water resistant I read.

[@AZREDFERN]

I would use PETG molds, because for better or worse, nothing likes to stick to it. Then maybe mix in a ratio of Titebond III just before pouring it. When done properly, Titebond III can glue wooden surfaces stronger than the grain of the wood itself. It’s also great with paper.

[@Sharpless2]

titebond has copolymers which are basically plastics so this goes against the idea of the video. Agree on the PETG tho; not only because of the good mold releasing but also because of the strength.

[@eatplastic9133]

Well the molds are plastic as well...

[@jerryfwimbo]

this is a great idea. those pieces ( 7:24 ) might be good shapes for sound proofing, which is usually made with foam that might not be eco friendly

[@PyPylia]

Corey Steed There’s a reason it’s made out of foam, I think that will be too brittle and or dense.

[@alvarojm750]

I agree on the too dense. The sound waves get dissipated by the surface shapes but also captured/absorbed by the lose lattice shape of the the foam itself. I won’t say that this wouldn’t work but may be need to tweak the shape to create “bottomless pits” on the paper to make sound waves fall in from the surface and have a hard time to bounce back intact.

[@D3nn1s]

Then again, why not simply use egg cartons just to shred them and make the same shape again :P

[@negritolindo8838]

Like eco-friendly and economic, it could be great. Think that not everybody is a music producer, but a lot live too close to neighbors (and parents), and having a really cheap, but also more "stylish" than egg cartons, it's certainly better than nothing. Even better if it has some degree of fireproof

[@MrScottyTay]

@@alvarojm750 what about a combination of the cardboard shapes and then a cloth wrapped around the front of it to do some absorption?

[@khaledadams4329]

I used your idea and created leather molds to create complex shapes with thick, tooling leather. It actually surpassed my expectations. This video helped greatly with my crafting ability, thanks so much for sharing.

[@Brute4rce1111]

OMG, I literally was thinking of making some cheap but sturdy part bin holders out of shredded cardboard via 3d printed molds. Great video 👌

[@kjw79]

I was just going to suggest that :)

[@AndreasGohr]

I just wanted to suggest this as well. If anyone makes a part bin mold, please share the STL.

[@NefariousElasticity]

This is a really genius application for 3D printers I hadn't even considered before. I'm trying to throw together a model to make biodegradable plant starter pots and get it printed in time to give it to my father as a Christmas gift since he's a master gardener - if it works, I'll tag it on your Thingiverse upload as a remix. Good stuff!

[@XYZAidan]

Sounds awesome, good luck!

[@TimersAndMore]

This is paper recycling version 2.0. I'm definitely going to try this at home, there are countless things you could do with this. Thanks for sharing.

[@jaredzaitz5184]

This was my senior thesis in design school in a nutshell, although you were far better at getting the bricks to dry and adhere together than I was. I think my main issue was not having a long enough travel distance for my molds! Really beautiful work and process documentation! I wonder what this material would be like with a glossy finish on the outside.

[@Kevinklimeck]

I am starting a large greenhouse project and want to make plant cups. This idea is Most Excellent! Thanks!

[@abhijeetneti]

he said the biggest weakness of this material is that it's not water resistant... I would suggest painting it or coating it so you can water the plants without disintegrating the plant.

[@glittleman]

@@abhijeetneti I'm guessing that it would be used to start the seeds and then the whole thing would get planted

[@petrescuework-difficultcas6581]

@@glittleman These already exist. They are made out of a recycled cardboard pressed into a cup shape. You can grow your seed in there and then bury the whole "pot" as you want to bring out the seedling. My experience though is, they mold very fast on the outside of the pots and take longer to break down than the roots of the seedling need to grow. So they hinder growth.

[@macrumpton]

Nice presentation. I wonder, if rather than using mechanical pressure to get the water out, you could use a vacuum pump to remove the water. The advantage (besides speed) would be removing air pockets, and not needing a very sturdy mold. You might even be able to use softer molds like silicone.

[@0Arcoverde]

Without compression it might get weaker by a little

[@trevormtb9372]

I think that pressing it is pretty important to getting the density that you need for it to be strong

[@reaganharder1480]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure the compression is a vital part of the strength of the part.

[@James02876]

Look at how carbon fiber is molded; they use vacuum bags to infuse the resin and remove air pockets, as well as ensuring a good cast from the mold. I think if you want to use the same method, you'd need to blend the dry paper with one of the two parts before mixing them like this. It wouldn't be neatly enough to remove the water, as 1 atmosphere of pressure is only 101 kPa, and a c clamp (not the same as used in the video, but a similar screw mechanism) can produce up to 2000 kPa.

[@marksmod]

@@James02876 wouldn't it suffice to bring the pressure down to the point where the water starts to boil at room temperature?

[@gsus3918]

You could also add a fiberous "rebar" material to increase strength. Thin fiberglass for reinforcement or long cut fibers from a plant or even a shirt could go a long ways in adding directional strength.

[@justdoeverything8883]

A lot of people juice Wheatgrass, the waste from the process is pure fibers, they seemed really strong. Could be interesting to play with

[@Tadpole-h7l]

I don't think I'll do this, but it's such an interesting idea to know about. It's been 5 years since this video was posted, hope this project is going smoothly for anyone trying it!

[@agepbiz]

This was great!

[@iggymach]

You could 3d print a perforated mould to press the paper pulp and drain the water instead of squeezing with your hands using cheesecloth. If you attach a strainer-like filter to the holes you would probably get a clean result. Great video btw.

[@Shjankee]

Wouldn’t those leave marks on the mold though? If he’s pressing it, I’m sure a small bit would press into the perforations leaving small marks

[@GonDragon]

@@Shjankee Yes, but if the holes go through a flat surface, they can be grinded and flattener later, when the object is dry. Like when a metal object is casted.

[@Shjankee]

Gonzalo Romero you right. I didn’t even think of sanding a paper material tbh.

[@GonDragon]

@@Shjankee haha, I also wouldn't think about sanding a paper material, because it may crumble and break apart... But as it seem on the video, it's pretty sturdy and compact, and can being sanded pretty well.

[@garyfornow542]

This is a really great idea. It would be cool to see how these parts look painted or dyed.

[@terryjoseph89]

Just 2 days ago i searched to make a mould for making a resin design.Gods grace u are there at crucial time.

[@Logiser]

Soo... it's kinda like a MDF board, but only less pressure, so it's LDF

[@mibars]

Actually with a metal form and strong press you may be able to do a MDF or even HDF molded items!

[@adamhajimichael]

I scrolled only to see this comment !

[@andrettibark]

Sort of. I do a lot with MDF. This material seems a lot less powdery for lack of better term.

[@Logiser]

@@andrettibark Less powdery? Does mdf manufacturing include l shorter fibres ? I work a lot with mdf routing, and it has the literal worst dust...

[@rickschuman2926]

MDF

[@willhaude3409]

Really great video, Aidan! You clearly put a lot of time into researching the variables and put it all together very clearly. Excited to see what people make with this!

[@jessejamesb]

I imagine you could enhance the strength with hemp fibres or something similar. Really there's tonnes of ways to amend the mixture with organics to change it's properties. Thanks for the vid, that's an instant subscribe. You've just changed the guerrilla gardening game.

[@jones1618]

For reinforcement ideas, look to existing paper mache techniques. They use cotton meshes which add strength or thin bamboo skewers or even small diameter wood dowels (for larger projects). These wood-like materials respond to the same adhesives and binders as the paper pulp so they all bind together really well.

[@kaitnip]

I don't know why your video popped into my my feed, but since it did I thought I should give it a try. What joy!

[@oatmoped]

Continue your work. You are on a good path

[@BillyTheSheep22]

This was really good. I especially liked that you included a breakdown of the end result's strengths and weaknesses.

[@MikeInSandy]

I can see this being used in DnD to make 3D scenery and dungeon tiles simular to dwarven forge

[@Vexillifer]

Exactly. I'm going to try and make some modular hill tiles with this.

[@busterbackster1]

Basically what I wanted to do, only thing in wondering I'd how to prime it for painting both methods I use basically put liquid on it which will probably ruin it

[@baxkill]

@@busterbackster1 You could try coating it with linseed oil? or making a linoleum plaster over it? if it works for instruments and floors it might work for this

[@raphaelmorgan2307]

perhaps, the only problem is the only way to really make a custom shape is to print a brand new mold for it, in which case... you're already using the plastic so why not just print the thing to begin with? unless you mean like, making many of a few shapes and adding them together for the map?

[@Morbius2271]

@@busterbackster1 mix black paint with modge podge and do a light coating to prime it. Should protect it and make it ready for paint. I’d also varnish it afterwards to ensure it says solid and protected

[@leighguptill9244]

Your recipe isn't dissimilar to what I use for paper mache clay. The proportions are different, and I use cheap toilet paper. SO, if you increase the amount of binder (I use Elmers AND regular white flour), you wouldn't need the mold. However, I've been thinking about ways to make molds so that I could "mass produce" sculptures, and a 3D printer is a neat idea. :)

[@AlexJoneses]

I'm excited to imagine what this would look like using polished or sandblasted metal molds

[@oztippetarius]

Too cool! This is exactly the information I was looking for! You should be very proud of your ingenuity and progress! It's projects like these that shape what our relationship with materials will be in the future.

[@pyroguy7]

"Outside the box" Killed it 👍

[@joelhollingsworth2374]

Slaked lime occurs to me as one possible binder material, possibly with chalk dust as a filler; water glass (sodium silicate) can be used to waterproof materials with "free" lime (ie. calcium in some form that is reactive with silicates, including hydroxides, carbonates, etc.). There have also been some interesting recent experiments using iron as a binder. The one I saw on KZbin had to do with iron-buffered bacterial blooms, but I think finely divided reduced iron is worth a try in your case: the idea is that it would oxidize and form (non-water-soluble) rust in the time between pressing and the end of drying. The dust from a sanding or grinding operation might be a waste stream to look into.