Yamaha RMAX 1000 3300 mile sheave service and dust inspection

[@bigjeep2195]

I just did my X2 clutch service, very clean overall but I did have a fair amount of black dust where my rollers are located, no idea what that was from......

[@MichaelJHathaway]

The flat spotting on my HV weights doesn't matter because there is no injection molded cover to wear through and break apart. Those weights are good for another 6000 or more miles. Camplate sliders look great. I would replace those every 2000 miles. The sliders see a lot of abuse, all your power is transmitted through them and it's cheap insurance just to drop in a new set every 2000 mile service. Thanks for the video!

[@ricklad129]

I have been following your reviews/channel since I bought my Rmax 2 , great information , I am going to go greaseless , so does weller racing machine out those areas in the primary clutch with there modified primary sheave ?

[@MassiveOverkill]

Hery Rick, yes they do although not as much material can be removed as say on an X2/X4 sheave, but it's still an improvement. Just keep in mind that Weller Racing doesn't support greaseless setups. They'll still sell you a kit but may not support any problems if you decide to go greaseless, but talk to Kyle just to make sure.

[@bama314]

I know this video is from a few years ago, but quick question. The manual says to do this every 1600 miles or every 6 months. Based on my riding schedule I would be in the 6 months category. With that amount of riding could I get by doing this once a year or wait till I hit the 1600 mile mark?

[@MassiveOverkill]

If you're using stock Polyurea grease you need to follow Yamaha's schedule. Only when you use Tinkseal can you safely extend the service intervals like I do. I wouldn't go by time, especially on the CVT, go by mileage. There are units sitting on the lot for 6 months and I guarantee you that NO service department is going to service a sheave with 3 miles on the odometer but 6 months have passed.

[@bama314]

@@MassiveOverkillthanks for the quick reply! Sorry if you've already answered this, I'm still making my way through your videos. but why did you switch to the yxz? easier maintenance?

[@MassiveOverkill]

The new 6 speed gearbox made it possible for the YXZ to do fairly decent rock crawling. Our daughter is grown up and we no longer really needed a 4 seater and I do a mix of rock crawling\technical stuff and higher-speed riding. The YXZ is a drivers vehicle. It's really fun to drive no matter what you're doing. It's so much easier to work on, with the exception of lubricating the rear driveshaft. The YXZ should theoretically last longer as well. Guys are putting 20K plus miles on YXZ's and the 2024 is even more durable than previous years.

[@bama314]

@@MassiveOverkill I hear you. I started your video on lubricating the rear driveshaft. Which is more fun, that or the rmax sheave service? Do you have any experience with the teryx or krx? I would really like something for trail riding that's reliable and fairly easy for maintenance.

[@MassiveOverkill]

I've done CVT maintenance so many times on the X4/RMAX4 that it's second nature for me. Doing the YXZ for the first time was brutally painful. Now that I've done it once and know the critical tricks, I may not hate it so much next time. I was stubborn and didn't want to remove any suspension components but really if I had just done that, it probably would have taken the same amount of time and getting the diff out of the way would have been much easier. I've never worked on a Teryx but you have to remove the gas tank to get to the CVT and that alone shows how stupidly-engineered it is. I lurk on the KRX groups and with all the issues guys are having with that poorly-engineered machine I'd never own one. You have to throw half of Brute Force's catalog at a KRX to make it reliable. Let's not even talk about the 300 mile clutch failures.

[@daveb7206]

What weight's are you using? Weight size? And what maintenance does the clutch get at what mileage? Greaseless is diffently way to go.... wow its clean

[@MassiveOverkill]

22 gram HV weights for RMAX. Yamaha's schedule is service both sheaves every 1600 miles. I'm doubling that using Tinkseal as evident from this tear down that I could extend service that long.

[@ttzofutah]

Great video as always. You going to try 24g this time?

[@MassiveOverkill]

@@ttzofutah no I'm not. If I were running bone stock rims/tires I may have tried the 24's, but I did notice a slight performance hit going with 30" Terrabites and Tusk Tetons and didn't want to lose anymore and I was happy with the sound levels with the 22's. Infidel MT is running 24's now and will swap in 22's when he does his next service, so he'll be able to weigh in. He's also running larger tires I believe and he's also running greaseless with good results so far.

[@crtdavis]

So the only place you are applying Tinkseal is on the weights correct? Do you apply it heavy or light? Thanks

[@MassiveOverkill]

I run greasless in the primary cavity but I may put a light coating of Tinkseal in the roller channels. If you choose not to run greaseless you fill the entire cavity around the outer wall so that when you move the cam plate in and out the grease coves any air gaps around the perimeter.

[@shanekemmer5055]

so no grease in the primary and you left the primary dust shield off this whole time? do you ride on dusty dirt roads? we experience quite a bit of dust in the summer riding old rail road beds and red dog roads

[@MassiveOverkill]

Hi Shane, that's correct. I do ride on dusty roads, but I'm rarely following and I do 45-55 MPH going/coming back from the trail head for at least a few miles. I HAVE NOT used the blowout port even though it's installed just to see what kind of natural accumulation would happen and this was the result. Now I can't guarantee you'll have the same results, but that it's possible. If you don't want to experiment, use Tinkseal. If you want to see if your riding style\local conditions give you the same results, try greaseless in the primary and if it turns out you get bad dust accumulation in a couple hundred miles that can't be blown out, switch back to grease.

[@shanekemmer5055]

@@MassiveOverkill we do experience a lot of mud too so i think going greasless might be better than the rollers getting clogged with mud. you dont need the carbon fiber sliders for greaseless right? I ordered tinkseal for the collar and to coat the secondary sliding parts with, you suggest a light coat on the rollers and sliders as well? Im only at 500 miles but want to install my 24 gram weights and service everything before riding season kicks off

[@MassiveOverkill]

@@shanekemmer5055 I do highly suggest the carbon fiber sliders as they're designed to help deal with dust buildup should it occur. A light coating in the sheave channels and cam plate ramps should be OK.

[@andyhosmer9073]

Where did you buy those weights?

[@MassiveOverkill]

Weller Racing or UTV Engineering. Lowers RPMs for less noise.