Yamaha RMAX axle replacement tutorial

These techniques can be used on various models. This tutorial brought to you by Demon Powersports and Weller Racing.
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[@GeorgeAvendt]

2021 Rmax 1000 x4, current miles 1760. Banging/Clunking of the rear axle shafts when turning, mostly to the left. The cause is DESIGN DEFICEINCIES. My wife and I are seniors that put-put thru the trails and give rides for the grandkids. If executed correctly, these joints would FUNCTION FLAWLESSLY and last a lifetime. The inner and outer races of the inboard CV, the modified rzeppa joint, have deep dimples where the balls normally ride. I am guessing that the noise is created when the extra torque created while turning causes the balls to bind and jump from dimple to dimple. (this scrubbing should be a piece of cake for this type of joint in this light of a vehicle). But, as I said in my earlier comment, lack of attention to detail in Yamaya’s execution IS the cause. Until Yamaha focuses their attention on the details and implements the design correctly, the problem WILL PERSIST.

[@kennyc2276]

I have the exact symptom and easy-riding mileage. You're saying it's the bearings within the axle CV joint, right? If so, should the axle be replaced asap?

[@GeorgeAvendt]

I know what failed on the Yamaha half shafts, EVERYTHING! POOR DESIGN POSSIBLY POOR MATERIALS POOR TOLERANCES & POOR MACHINING/GRINDING Yamaha’s configuration: The outboard joint is ONLY a rzeppa joint, No axial travel at all. (not a bad thing) The inboard IS A MODIFIED RZEPPA, allowing axial travel. I have not seen another implementation of this type of joint, though I would bet $$$ that if it could be made to work reliably, GM would have done it. Guess which one is making the noise! Footnotes: If you are familiar with the GM rzeppa design, you know that the inner and outer ball races are arranged in a cross axes pattern, canted. This configuration helps keep the balls in a plane called the homokinetic plane. GM also uses a cage to work together with the canted ball races to ensure the bearings stay well aligned within the homokinetic plane. By doing this, the joint becomes a ROBUST TRUE CONSTANT VELOCITY which has a long life in use. GM did everything else right too. Half shafts need a swivel joint on each end and a means to accommodate length change. GM chose to use a rzeppa on the outboard swivel joint and use something different, which they call a TRIPOT for the inboard swivel joint. The trypot is not a true constant velocity joint AND it cannot handle the torques and amount of deflection that the rzeppa can, but it is good enough to handle the demands of the job as drive shaft deflection angles on the inboard end are not large and it also collapses to perform the length changing requirements AND THEY DO IT for an exceptionally long life. BACK TO THE YAMAHA DESIGN: The outboard rzeppa will do GREAT in this application for many thousands of miles in all conditions expected in the ATV’s provided the design is correct, i.e. High precision, preloaded correctly and well lubricated. Yamaha’s implementation remains unproven for me, only time will tell. For the inboard swivel joint that Yamaha came up with, and presumably the same as the other ATV manufactures, it’s a compromised rzeppa. The ball races are PARALLEL TO THE AXIS OF THE SHAFT. This modification allows the inner race to travel up and down the outer race accommodating the shaft length change function. The consequences of this adaptation: The baring cage alone must keep the balls from falling out and traveling within the homokinetic plane. Theoretically, this should would fine, but in at least this case I can say Yamaha’s bearing tolerances don’t even come close to that of GM’s. There is actually zero preload on the bearings! The outer races don’t appear to be as polished as the inners, only contacting on the edges of the race channels. Also, both inner and outer races have dimples made by the ball bearing contact, like they don’t have the required hardness. Probably needed soft materials to handle the dynamic loads created by the lash in the bearings alone. Footnote; The rzeppa joints that GM manufactures are among the tightest tolerance assemblies, ANYWHERE. Even exceeding the normal high precision bearing tolerances. Back to Yamaha, I personally don’t believe Yamaha’s design had a chance at long life. Relying on the bearing cage alone to keep the balls in the correct location and loose fitting bearings without proper preload coupled with soft materials guarantees early failure. THEY WERE NOT DRY as some people suggested online! Quite the contrary! I can apply enough torque with my hands while telescoping the joint to feel the coggy bearings. YOU CAN SEE THE DENTS IN THE RACES WHERE THEY HAVE BEEN RIDING. This application needs true rzeppa joints on each end and a telescoping spline pair between them to accommodate the length change. APPEARANTLY, NO MANUFACTURE IS WILLING TO SPEND THE MONEY. CONCLUSION: I CAN EXPECT TO CHANGE HALF SHAFTS AT LEAST EVERY 2000 MILES. (THE COMPONENTS ARE NOT INDIVIDUALLY AVAILABLE, SO….)

[@wedigsrus]

@massiveoverkill. Any idea what is causing all the low mile clunking of axles ? Is heat from the exhaust a possible issue.

[@MassiveOverkill]

It's a mix of things to be honest. Some it's simply the suspension/rear drivetrain loading/unloading when turning. Others may have a legit bad axle. Heat could be an issue, but my axle boots didn't pop until 9K miles.

[@craigr6763]

Where your axles broken/wore out making noise? How many miles

[@MassiveOverkill]

One blew at 9500 miles, just the boot and I haven't had a chance to look at it closer yet. No noise.

[@1320pass]

Do these machines have a selectable locking differential in the rear or are they locked at all times? Thanks for the informative video.

[@MassiveOverkill]

@@1320pass they're locked full time.

[@1320pass]

@@MassiveOverkill ok. thanks for the reply.

[@KC-7mm]

Wow you made it to 9500 miles I got to 750 then my axles started to make a clunking noise at the time the only available axles where rhino 2.0 they clunked from the start so they sent a new set they do the same. Is there something else that it could be the noise happens around turns and going downhill coasting. The only time it won’t do it is when there is a heavy load like two full size adults in the rear. I have the same year and model.