Yamaha Ténéré 700 - Changing the Rear Tire and Inner Tube - by using a C-clamp and some wood blocks

If the tire(s) on your motorcycle is hard to remove, a C-clamp with wood blocking makes the task easier and safer. In this video I made a couple of pieces of wood blockings to fit the Yamaha Ténéré 700 rear wheel and 150/70 R18 tire. The process is similar for most motorcycles with hard to remove tires.
Tire Spoons: amzn.to/3htAP6V
Bead Buddy: amzn.to/3jzFC9w
Rim Shield: amzn.to/3h91Opd
Paint Pen: amzn.to/2Ttr801

[@gerardlunow567]

It is the first video I have seen that does everything safely for the person and wheel. Very nice!!!

[@cavscout62]

Thanks for this refresher course and ideas for self made tools! It’s been a lot of years since I’ve had tube type tires like on my Tenere 700 and this really was helpful. Ride On.

[@familyandrae2658]

Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show everything so clearly.

[@NomadSweden]

Professional and complete as usual. 👍

[@IslandInsanity]

Thank you for this! I had a flat on my T7. I ended up towing the bike to have it fixed because I couldn’t get the tire back on and I was already exhausted from taking the tire off. But now I’ll be practicing your method before going for a long range ride.

[@allenhuling598]

I'm leaving on a couple week adventure in a few days....some great info here, thanks for taking the time and effort to make the video!!

[@joeybobbie1]

Hi from Texas. Great Video. I just mounted a new back Tire on my GS and wish I would have seen this Video first. I didn’t know about the Tire Mounting Compound, and evidently whoever had the Bike before me didn’t either. I watched a Lot of Tire mounting Videos, and this is by far the best. I will be ordering the Compound and a 8” C Clamp. Thanks for showing this.👍👍

[@ricrandmfx]

I've changed tires before with different methods but, got stuck with a set of new tires that are particularly stiff. Your trick was super helpful!

[@jackstrawfromwitchita5978]

best tire mounting video, the factory mounted Tenere 700 tires are the most difficult tires Ive changed in 20 years. They are easier now..

[@danytheunicorn95]

I loved this video. Great advice and quality.

[@samking4179]

Love your videos! So great! Thanks for this tip. Excellent! Very helpful!

[@BlackArroToons]

Great tips, thanks. Popping the beads from the rim with just basic hand tools is a serious challenge, so a C clamp as a vice looks hopeful for an easier time after all the years the tough way. The grease on the rim to get the beads to pop for the new tire with air is the key, agreed. Thanks.

[@abyields7831]

Awesome job, thank you for sharing!

[@michaelcooper2514]

Thank you. This is very valuable content.

[@1jonblaze]

Great video very clear. Top man

[@johnvoit9629]

These videos are great!

[@henrygerwien186]

This is a gorgeous idea, and funny at least by your humorous sight on harsh things! "Flying Spoons" could be a name of an alternative rock band or whatever! 🤣 Fine idea, just on monday I.ll have a visit at the hardware store, for sure!!! Thanx for your video, fine one! Greetings, Henry

[@carmago88]

Very interesting and helpful videos. Thanks so much.

[@guylr7390]

Great video and inventive technique. One tip that I’ve come to use in over 50 years of tube type tire changing is to only thread the stem nut on a couple of threads. That way when you are ready to spoon the bead on in the stem area you push the stem in as far as it will go and hold with one finger as you lever the tire on. That way you will never pinch the tube at the stem especially on narrow front rims. On the axle nut, that is a common self locking nut which were in use as far back as WWll. Most common are the Nylock style but the ones with the metal lock ring in the outer side of the nut are used frequently by all the Japanese manufacturers and I assume others. Rarely do they cause the type of damage you had as the locking force is not that great.

[@michaelroth6273]

Got a heavy duty tube for my T7 just like your video. (You are my “go to” source.) it has been much harder than you made it look and now I can’t get past

[@michaelroth6273]

...can’t get past getting the tube stem through the hole. What is the trick?

[@pimsiebers7333]

I found this on the internet where somebody gave this tip. For the bead buddy you can also try one or a couple of (wine bottle) corks. It did the trick for me and they’re cheap and don’t take up much space as well.

[@pm9578]

Good video. I use copper hammer and two tyre tools to break the bead. I would have to video it for you to understand. I use water only to ease the tyre on an off the rim. Finally I slice an old tube on the inner side and cut off the valve. This I slip over the tube as an outer protection. This reduced my punctures to nil.

[@Zzfoto]

Excelent ...thank you.... Big like for tutorial, even if Im in motocross, I did review the video... Excellent mind and skills to see how easier other people do things... Liked, subscribed...is cool tutorial

[@nemerkha]

probably the best video in terms of explanation. i am a tube tyre virgin, and got tools together (bead buddy and motion pros with no extra spoons) practicing on an old trials bike front wheel and tyre. Home tyre changes are one thing, i wish we could have an indepth detailed roadside trails tools only tube swap video. Also re HD tubes, as ill be doing 90-10 motorways in summer am told they arent suitable for motorway/highway speeds - especially in summer when hot?

[@paolozuffi8461]

Imho is always better to avoid to do these jobs on the trail....It's a real pita. I have done like this: I sealed the rim with 3M tape (as for tubeless conversion) but I also left the tube. In this way, in case of flat, the drop of pressure is slow and you can inflate the tire and repair it as tubeless and get the nearest workshop for the final sealing/tube replacement. It works

[@elionh4532]

What do you mean by sealed the rim?

[@ZH2.]

Hi what kind of tubless conversion kit did you ise?

[@JohannesDalen]

I’m currently changing my tires on my T7 following this video. The beadpros worked perfectly for me- what I found was tricky was getting the bead over the rim after the bead was popped. What worked for me was actually using the rim protectors, they caused more leverage and it popped off so much easier. Thanks for the videos, very helpful!

[@everythingtenere]

Them pirelli is a pain. Other tires are easier, haven’t had to use more than two easy bars to get it off the bead. In the garage, for sure use some homemade contraptions 😁 Side stand is a great bead breaker 👌

[@Josh-ew1le]

Excellent presentation, thanks for sharing!

[@slowenslo1427]

Excellent….thanks!

[@Valterpenato]

Fantastic😁👍

[@kluper1157]

Thank you!!

[@michailvlassov3488]

Thank you))

[@bikemancody2752]

Haha! Love how he fast forwarded the actual breaking of the rear stock tire bead. Bro.....

[@coobye]

Years ago I welded a nut on the end of my C-clamp so I can use a ratchet or spanner to make turning it easier.

[@justmyself1000]

Great ideas! Thank You! I can break the bead okay with the motion pro bead breakers..just takes a little longer. I found a couple of things can help with the bead breakers....Don't use the short version. The longer version works sooo much better not only for breaking the bead, but using to spoon on/off the tires. Also, if you can raise the wheel higher off the ground, one can use more leverage by being able to pull the bead breaker tool down more. The longer bead breaker tools weigh I believe only 1 lb. more for both tools. But don't get me wrong; your clamp method will go quicker and one can use it for more than just breaking the bead. Funny thing...I just saw the title of this and had a big, "DUH!" moment! Why did no one else ever think of using a C-clamp!!! Then I had to watch! Wondering if just using the clamp and 1 small piece of wood could suffice for breaking the bead? Wonder if there is a lighter weight version of a C-clamp to use? I already carry 130 lbs. of gear and just thinking of weight. liquid soap is okay because the lye in broken down in a chemical reaction called saponification.

[@joeybobbie1]

You can get Aluminum C Clamps.

[@fredzuccarelli]

Any thoughts on converting it to tubeless with an after.arket kit? I converted my royal enfield tubed tires and it's made dealing with punctures sooo much easier. As soon as my tires are do for a change on my t700 I'm converting! Love your detailed videos.

[@charliem5332]

I like it

[@TammyDenseDdank5658]

The same thing happened to me with the flat head nut stripping the the aluminum. I just welded another extension bolt on so I can secure from the other side. 😂

[@stephenhadley2490]

I managed to get mine off by jumping on it but to get the tyre back on the bead I needed 90psi to get it over the ridges. It makes me worry what I would do if I was away from a compressor. I might have to look into that compound.

[@josephfelice601]

Great video.... LMAO with the Saké.

[@Uncleshoes]

You need to use soapy water or other lube to remove and instal tires. Makes it so much easier, especially when you are doing this on the side of the road.

[@qwertyqwerty3133]

18:08 😉

[@stojanjankovic5669]

My Honda Transalp from 1995. has that kind of nuts all around.

[@tymahoney]

What size of tube do you use in the rear? I can't find a tube that matches the size of the tire.

[@anthonyfox5337]

You can also use the weight of the bike with the end of the side stand to break the tire bead as a last resort.

[@michaelroth6273]

Got heavy duty rear tube for my

[@paulom2198]

Hi Orbsurfer! thank you very much for your EXCELENTE videos! The michelin tubes you use on the T7 are ultra heavy duty tubes? they are secure on higway? What pressure you use? Thank you!

[@orbsurfer8195]

Thanks! I do not know. I searched through Michelin's website regarding the Heavy Duty 4 mm wall thickness inner tubes before I mounted them, but did not find any information either way. I mounted the inner tubes because the roads down here in the south of the US are very bad + the amount of nails and screws on the roads here is beyond insane! I use the standard road pressure of 32 psi up front and 36 psi at the rear.

[@paulom2198]

Thank you Orbsurfer. There are two diferent tipes off reinforced tubes by michelin: Heavy duty tubes (4mm) and Ultra heavy duty tubes (more than 4mm: 5 ou 7mm I thing..). So, the 4mm ones are better for the T7 since you can do Higway with no over heat. The Ultra heavy duty tubes (the thicker ones) they can over heat in higway speeds... So, as I can see, you choose the right ones :) I bought the 4mm ones to, but didnt put yet on the T7 (maybe this month). Do you consider to put antipuncture slime on the tubes to? I've got inspired with this video: facebook.com/watch/?v=641377853083700. Thank you again for your excelents videos! I thing they are the best T7 videos in the internet :). Regards from Portugal!

[@orbsurfer8195]

Thanks! And Thank You for the clarification! No, I am not planning on "sliming" the inner tubes.

[@martinfretwell]

If you used the rim protectors better the rim wouldn't get scratched .good idea though a big vice can also break the bead.

[@adventureridinginnewzealan2531]

Great video. Question: would it be a good idea to grind/sand-off those raised ribs in the rim? This would surely make it MUCH easier to break the bead? I have to change my tyre on the T7 for the first time and am definitely not looking forward to it! But while the tyre is off, I might go ahead and sand off those 'safety' ribs.

[@orbsurfer8195]

No, the rib, if we are talking about the same part of the rim, should stay in place because it is a structural part of the rim. Talking to other Ténéré 700 owners, most rear tire brands are MUCH easier to remove/remount than the tire that comes on the bike; i.e. the easiest solution is to change the tire brand when the original tire is worn out. Also, always use a little tire lubricant when removing/remounting the tire. Good Luck! 🙂

[@goatman86]

Are you serious?! This is the only part keeping your tire on the rim. Don't touch it.

[@hunterjohnson6240]

Hardest part of t7 rear tire change is getting the tube installed due to size of wheel and valve stem placement

[@Juanxxi1109]

Rear Tire: 150/70-18 @ 36 PSI Axle torque 77 LBFT OR 105 NM Abs 5 FTLBS 7 NM DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AND STRIP

[@skarebsuper]

15:05, i really dont recommend to pull the levers all the way down towards to the tyre, high risk of pinching the tube!! happened to me before

[@MrRodwatson]

Do you have a link for the "Rally raid" tool. I couldn't find one in your tools video.

[@jameshind6644]

rally raid.co.uk

[@alexanderirwin7271]

I wish i seen this years ago

[@goatman86]

PRO Tip. Replace those adjustment blocks on the axle ASAP. They seem to be made out of cheese and with that much torque on the nut you will spin the axle on the opposite side, with nothing else to hold it. I had to weld a nut to the other end just to remove it from the bike. I don't suppose you guys carry a welder on your trips. Thanks for this great vid orbsurfer

[@e.g.8371]

Did they sell upgraded adjustment blocks?

[@goatman86]

@@e.g.8371 They do but I would look elswhere. Much cheaper and some designs are better than others. My MT09 WR450f and T700 all use the exact same axle and chain tensioning blocks and it sucks on all of them

[@garycotz563]

Which Michelin tubes for front & rear?

[@orbsurfer8195]

Michelin Ultra Heavy Duty MX Tubes Front: 90/90-21 Rear: 140/80-18

[@The333]

Just curious - I can appreciate your innovation in finding a way to make this easier (the Pirelli's were tough to get off for sure), but do you carry this whole rig when you ride? I forced myself to use the Bead Breaker tools and spoons only when I changed my rear tire as I wanted to duplicate the process I would need if I got a flat in the woods - although a pain for sure, I feel like I now know what to expect and I can carry all those tools and a spare tube easily.

[@orbsurfer8195]

I have dismounted the rear tire later on, and because the tire mounting compound is still soft, it is a much easier process. I have not so far brought the c-clamp with me. The first time I dismounted the rear tire, I tried using the bead breaker tools. It was impossible! I ended up using two c-clamps without blocking between the tire and the clamps, not a good solution; the reason I swapped to a larger clamp with blocking on both sides. I always carry spare tubes, three tire spoons, the cheap tire valve tool and the small container of tire mounting compound, close to the kit that I keep under the seat of my bicycle! :-)

[@charlescummings1484]

@@orbsurfer8195 I've been defeated by tires before! I made the parts and have the c-clamp. I'm going to bring it with me! Thank you for taking the time and sharing the process! From CT, U.S.A.

[@charliem5332]

@@orbsurfer8195 do you bring the tyre mounting compound with you? I'm guessing you transfer some into a small tub or can it be purchased in small tubs? It's an excellent video and one I wish I had seen last year as I had huge problem taking off a Mitas e07 rear!!

[@charliem5332]

Sorry. I asked this question before I reached the end of the video 🙈🤭

[@The333]

@@charliem5332 At which time mark does he specify that he actually carries the plywood forms and a C clamp around to use off road on rides?

[@user-bb3ll1le1e]

the red dot is the heaviest part of the tyre

[@steves5382]

Rabaconda, 15 mins

[@RedEmpire36]

This isn't even the hard part. The hardest part is removing the tire completely. Hardest step by far and of course not shown

[@occyman]

So you carry all this crap with you on the trail or are you saying you don’t know how to change a tube when out riding? Because it’s not as hard as your making it that’s for sure.