Yamaha XV Virago camshaft roller bearing upgrade (!read comment!)

[@rednekswede1066]

Hi, Thanks for your very informative videos. I'm a skilled mechanic, have worked with tools my entire life (52 yrs old). Have worked with everything from small chainsaws, cars and mc to big forest machines, repairing railway-trains now. There are a lot of clown mechanics on the internet, but You are not one of them sir, my hats of for You! My bike is a 1100 Virago and the engine is from the same family, i truly liked the trick with the ballbearing for the camshaft. Have a great day to you all.

[@Delete_85]

Sorry, google isn't being great rn, just wondering what the bearing number is. i had a screenshot from a facebook group but lost the photo. Cheers man, and happy riding!

[@murraykriner9425]

Incredible piece of detective work on a thing that plagued a great many manufacturers, when the installer cost a catastrophe to the machine. Glad it didn't scar all that lovely work you put into her.

[@gorgon9786]

Hi Chief Pep! ..you're really at track with this one now!! Great to watch you serving your engine, and I say thanks for shearing your stuff with us!! This is a huge amount of knowledge to the xv people!! Can't wait for the followup videos!

[@lcrgarage3245]

Great tip about oil holes. I would have missed that little detail also.

[@leeharveygriswold6160]

Just a little tip. Oven cleaner or caustic soda works very well for getting carbon and soot off engine parts. Just don't use it on aluminium or magnesium. Ferrous metals only. Titanium is OK too.

[@camaroguy2919]

Nice catch with the oil path on the rocker shafte assembly. You are doing what I planned to do with my kz750 lap the valves and redoing my timing. Great video..

[@kurt3128]

That engine looks beautiful!

[@Gus-cg9yp]

Nice one Chief , you are nearly there. Thanks. Gus

[@zuzuki65]

Hey chief Pep, have you checked your oil filter to see if it picked up any blasting media ? It would probably need replacement anyway. Thank you for taking us with you in your journey through the videos

[@chiefpepdesign]

There was no blasting media there. Completely clean.

[@zero-cy5gc]

Priceless information my man!

[@philipnewman5087]

I'm not 100 percent sold on ball bearings on the camshaft. My understanding about bearings is that the lowest friction bearings are ball bearings but they also wear the quickest. That's why all modern crankshafts use plain bearings. Even though they have the most friction they last longer. Maybe the camshafts have less load on them so ball bearings will still last long enough.

[@chiefpepdesign]

I'm just gonna trust on the hundreds of XV riders who did this modification... There are a few who also rode thousants of miles with it. Which I will never do on this bike...

[@philipnewman5087]

I searched all over the web trying to find a definitive explanation of the benefits of ball bearings, only because I was curious. Best i come up with is first, it is true there are a lot of bikes doing this swap so there must be something to it. Second the camshaft isn't carrying enough load that the difference in bearing life is a big deal especially considering replacing those bearings isn't that big a job anyway. Third they do run with less friction which is always good and ball bearings have tighter tolerances than plain bearings. Finally, plain bearings are completely dependent on oil flow to function and if oil gets cut off for any reason, they can fail suddenly by ceasing up causing major engine damage, like what happened to you. This is just a guess but I bet that ball bearings would not cease up suddenly without oil, but would get loose and noisy so you would have plenty of warning that there was a problem before any serious engine damage was done. If there are any engineers reading this I would like to know for sure. Anyway keep up the good work you do a great job with these videos, you're an inspiration to all of us.

[@craigjones9244]

Ball bearing convertions are also done on old desmo Ducati's on the cranks but they are high quality purpose roller bearings meant for the job you just cant use any old rollers to do the job that goes for head conversion to, this is done for race engines to eliminate power loss from friction but the bearings need to be replaced more often so if you have deep pockets go hard other wise standard bearings are just fine and last years.

[@CheapskateGarage]

Plain bearings load an entire surface, so the force is distributed evenly over a large area, keeping loading pressures low. There is a lot of drag, because you're forcing two surfaces to slip past each other with close clearances. The oil layer becomes extremely crucial, and any disruption in its supply can cause a sudden and catastrophic failure without warning. Because of the low surface pressures in a plain bearing, we can use weaker materials--like the aluminum of the head. Ball bearings eliminate surfaces slipping past each other. As a result, they are less sensitive to disruptions in lubrication, and won't fail so suddenly. They also have less drag, since they allow all the surfaces to roll instead of slip. However, the force loading is less ideal. A small sphere (the ball) rolling around a surface (the race) with a larger radius will cause point-loading. Since the surface pressure is the force divided by the area, this presents a problem. The contact area is very, very small now. The force is essentially the same. We've effectively multiplied the surface pressure in the bearing by dividing the force by a very, very small number. Remember what happens when you divide by zero... We do things to compensate, like using hardened steel surfaces for the bearing races (the aluminum would be destroyed quickly). Now a roller bearing has a larger line of contact (more area of support) than a ball bearing, and you'll commonly find roller bearings supporting shafts with high radial loads (like inside transmissions and transfer cases). Roller bearings can't support an axial load well, however.

[@DDNZ]

Nice job. You are right on it now!

[@ard5608]

Ik zou je adviseren alleen de fijne compound te gebruiken op de klepzittingen, de grove trekt diepe krassen en is niet nodig bij alleen inslijpen. Het lijkt ook alsof je geen werkplaatshandboek erbij hebt? Je moet bij het slijpen vd kleppen de breedte van het contactvlak in de gaten houden, die specificatie staat in het handboek. Bij het plaatsen van nieuwe of gebruikte kleppen hoor je ook de axiale speling (X en Y) te meten met een meetklokje. Als de speling tussen de klepsteel en klepgeleider te groot is, dan heeft kleppen in slijpen helemaal geen zin, omdat hij niet kan centreren.

[@chiefpepdesign]

Hi Ard. Dank voor je advies. Dit is speciale kleppenpasta die van 0,0950mm naar 0,0445mm gaat en echt niets extreems doet. Juist omdat ik het met de hand doe hoor en merk ik goed wat het doet. Ik tel telkens de klep een kwartslag op en ga dan weer verder. Daarbij houd ik telkens in de gaten hoe de zitting eruit ziet en ga geen seconde te lang door met polijsten. Ik heb zeker wel een werkplaatshandboek, maar die je vertelt je dit soort specialistische werkjes niet. Die heb ik geleerd gedurende mijn hele leven eigenlijk dat ik met motoren bezig ben en in alle denkbare werkplaatsen bepaalde zaken geleerd heb. Het meten laat ik achterwege. Ik kan hier heel academisch over gaan doen, maar ik ga gewoon vertrouwen op het feit dat ik met identieke blokken te maken heb van exact dezelfde bouwjaren. Ik heb dan ook weinig keuze. Dit zijn de kleppen die ik ter beschikking heb en ik moet het er maar mee doen. Nieuwe kopen vind ik onzin. Een gemiddelde hobbyist had denk ik niet eens de moeite genomen om de klepzittingen weer enigszins passend te maken op deze manier of preventief nieuwe klepseals en pakkingen te plaatsen terwijl die nog geen 5 kilometer oud zijn. Dus medunkt dat alles zo netjes de aandacht krijgt. Meer kan ik even niet doen. Ik zou voor de geruststelling nog een lektest kunnen doen als alles af is. Misschien als ik zin heb doe ik dat nog. Thanks in ieder geval voor het meedenken!

[@ard5608]

@@chiefpepdesign Sorry maar je bent mij kwijt bij; 'meten laat ik achterwege'. Meten is niet academisch, dat is gewoon hoe het hoort, ze zetten het niet voor niks in het handboek. Ik ben met je eens dat een handboek te kort schiet qua gevoel voor techniek, dat leer je niet in een boek. Maar een handboek is ook niet om te leren, ze gaan er vanuit dat je weet wat je doet. Stel dat spul over de slijtgrens is, en je monteert het toch omdat je het wel vertrouwd, dan kan je dit nooit verkopen als 'gereviseerd'. Misschien als schoongemaakt en wat pakkingen erin gezet. Ik heb afgelopen zomer 13000km gereden, dat gaat niet met alleen vertrouwen dat het wel klopt.

[@chiefpepdesign]

@@ard5608 Ok. Er is gelukkig altijd baas boven baas! Ik zal erop letten dat ik hem niet verkoop als 'gereviseerd'. Ik zat er duidelijk bij vermelden: 'Dit is een hobby project. Ik heb mijn best gedaan hem zo goed mogelijk in elkaar te zetten. Ik heb alles vervangen wat ik kon vervangen en bíjna alles nagemeten!' Thanks!

[@ard5608]

@@chiefpepdesign het gaat niet om baas boven baas, dit is geen ego race. Ik kan geen uitlaatsysteem bouwen zoals jij. Het gaat erom jezelf openstellen om iets te leren en je werk daarmee naar een hoger niveau te tillen. Mentaliteit om alles zelf te willen doen is top, maar dan moet je ook bereid zijn veel te leren om het goed te kunnen doen. Zodra ik iemand nieuwe zuigerveren zie monteren zonder de slotspeling in de cilinder te meten, of zelfs de cilinder te honen, dan moet ik je daar toch op kunnen attenderen?

[@chiefpepdesign]

@@ard5608 Zeker

[@specialse]

Not sure about the rocker arm spindle info . from Yamaha the rocker spindles for the cylinder head inlet and exhaust have the same part number 4x7-12156-02-00 . where did you read your info ? also not great engineering to polish the marks out of the old ones. could lowers oil pressure for inner bush on rocker arm ? . love the video.s , keep them coming .

[@chiefpepdesign]

I have totally new info on the spindles which I will explain in the next video. Very interesting. They were renewed/updated in later years... New partsnumber due to previous causing oil problems. Probably I found a new and old one in my engine. I ordered 4 new ones (indeed all the same) and will compare them in my next video.

[@specialse]

very interesting i look forward to reading your findings . my motors are all early , is the info from twin shock models ? i dont know much about them . thanks for reply i await next video with interest , :-)

[@MrAlmar07]

Nice work Pep. 😉👍

[@craigbaker6998]

Hi Chief Pep. I find your videos very helpful. I'm working on an 81 xv750 Virago. Will you please provide info on how to set up the vacuum lines. Thanks All the best

[@chiefpepdesign]

Yes, here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXexmoCbZ9uhoNk

[@bradperry9567]

K thank you and I found cem dip works good to for them parts

[@jonhering5660]

Nice progress!

[@balabur01]

Hi, I have notice that you put the new camshaft bearing with the plastic cover side toward the engine, don't you think that should be in opposite position because as I think the plastic barrier will not allowed the oil to rich the bearings? Sorry If I am wrong! Best Regards

[@chiefpepdesign]

I was quite sure I clearly explained this in the video... The oil splatters from the chain into the bearing that way. So the bearing keeps oiled in a pretty natural way this way. That's why.

[@oscarrosenqvist5376]

Question! I took apart my two tops for my xv1000 and they are all the same shafts. In the description you mention it should be that way. So which one in the video is the right ones to have? The one you were talking about for the exhaust or the one for the inlet? My best Oscar

[@chiefpepdesign]

I don't understand your question. Camshafts differ from front and rear cilinder. They are therefore numbered

[@bantampop3532]

Great video

[@BryanM362]

Hello Chief from Cincinnati! I am rebuilding/customizing a 1981 XV 920 and your videos have been very helpful. Do you have a link to where you got the ball bearings for the cam? Or what forum you read about them?

[@chiefpepdesign]

Especially for all these questions I made this Q&A video(!) kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7c

[@mar666cel]

Wederom weer en geweldige video je help me zo vaak met me virago op te bouwen echt blij met deze video's maar wat is het skf bestel nummer / lager nummer alvast bedankt mvg marcel kemps

[@chiefpepdesign]

In deze video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7c op 11.21

[@mar666cel]

@@chiefpepdesign top dankje wel ik ga ze direct bestellen

[@petersahlberg2114]

Where did you hear that the rocker arm Shafts are different on the intake and the exhaust side ?? The part number from Yamaha tells us that it is the exact same part used both for the exhaust and the intake rocker arms. (4 identical rocker arm shafts are used in the cylinder head) Check for yourself here: www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xv750-virago-1981-b-usa_model8837/partslist/A-11.html#.W8kb2aR5PYU

[@joshmartin8856]

This is *mostly* correct. 4X71215602 supersedes 4X71215601, the newer 602 has the hole closer to the end which results in better alignment/flow but both/either will work.

[@raimondomilea3652]

hi Chief Pep i have a xv 1981 for a project now and i'm wondering if u have a code for those roler bearing beacause i did't fine on the link. thank you

[@chiefpepdesign]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7csi=L3JylTfeLGtrLId6 Here you go. Please scroll to that part.

[@otbenyahia5025]

Hi Chief pep, I think you have two different rocker shaft models. One is maybe from your early xv700. My opinion is that they have to be the same front and back. If you look at cmsnl the 4X71215602 shaft supersedes the 4X71215601 one. It looks like it has a different inner diameter. Also i was wondering if you have the correct cam shaft in the correct cylinder. Because they are stampt with a number. 1 for the rear cylinder.

[@chiefpepdesign]

See my answer below to the remark of subscriber 'Specialse'. And in de vid I even have a close up to the cam marked number 1 and mention that you always have to be very carefull to have the right cam in the right head... ;)

[@otbenyahia5025]

haha my bad, had not read it before commenting...

[@soulpower3107]

Great vid ! I’m really needing an oil baffle for rear cylinder ? Can u help ?

[@chiefpepdesign]

CMSNL.com

[@robertswift4791]

Hi can I ask did Yamaha do this mod on later xv750 eg mines 1994 many thanks keep up the great work luv d bids ...

[@robertswift4791]

Vids not bids

[@chiefpepdesign]

Not sure

[@rollthelosingdice]

If it's built perfectly, it shouldn't fail right?

[@chiefpepdesign]

Indeed... But it looks like some parts are very sensitive or have undergone an update...

[@TheGunny_TX]

Did I miss the part where he gave the part number to the upgraded bearing?

[@chiefpepdesign]

It's in the video before this one kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7c around 11 minutes

[@TheGunny_TX]

@@chiefpepdesign Just wanted to let you know that you truly inspired me to teardown my engine. You made it look so easy and your videos are so easy to follow. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce such wonderful content.

[@rodrigoburgos6190]

👌👌👏👏👏

[@JimBiddle.]

Could you not put a cordless drill on the stem of the valve? Lap it in in no time.

[@chiefpepdesign]

No! That's way to hostile for such a fragile piece...

[@memsybabe]

Great video again. Im always learning right along with you...🤔😁

[@bradperry9567]

Hi I have a question I have a xv500 virago can I do the same camshaft bearing upgrade you did on the xv750 virago

[@chiefpepdesign]

I believe so.

[@thomasm9384]

Are those bearings the same as the link I found in comments (6205 2RS)?

[@chiefpepdesign]

If you want to make sure watch my previous video here kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7c at 11:15

[@amorosrokaj5980]

Do the holes on the rocker shafts have to face a certain direction when installing? Can’t remember how they were facing when i took them off?

[@chiefpepdesign]

No, they could even rotate during riding. They just give oil to the head.

[@CARRDENN]

Hee, hoe ben je erachter gekomen welke rollager je nodig hebt? En welke heb je gepakt?

[@chiefpepdesign]

Ik heb daar aardig wat info en tijd aan besteed in de video's ervoor. En doordat deze vraag zó vaak werd gevraagd heb ik er een Q&A video van gemaakt. Die vind je hier kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5jFq3yiipmph7c op 10:44 gaat het precies over de bearing.

[@CARRDENN]

@@chiefpepdesign super, die video had ik gemist. Bedankt!

[@JimBiddle.]

Sorry, ignore that, be very tricky to get a drill on the other end.

[@stevenbrucci]

If you had turned down the music (instead of cranking it up) while lapping the valves , we TOO could have listened to the changing sound.

[@chiefpepdesign]

I did turn the music down... Look/listen at 5:30

[@yama3130]

Welchen Vorteil hat das Kugellager?

[@chiefpepdesign]

Also, ein Gleitlager ist viel störungsanfälliger, wenn beispielsweise zu wenig Öl im Zylinderkopf zugeführt wird. Als Folge war meine Nockenwelle das letzte Mal stecken geblieben. Unzählige Virago-Fahrer haben bereits das Problem einer verklemmten Nockenwelle erlebt und fast alle haben während der Restauration ein Kugellager anstelle eines Gleitlagers eingebaut. Dies ist ein sehr berühmtes Update in den Yamaha Viragos. Daher. Entschuldigung für mein Deutsch ...

[@yama3130]

@@chiefpepdesign Dein Deutsch ist super! Werde meinen Motor auch demnächst zerlegen, dann kommen da auch Kugellager rein. Weißt du zufällig die Maße? Wie viel Spiel sollte es haben? C2 oder c3?

[@chiefpepdesign]

@@yama3130 6205 2RSH - SKF Rillenkugellager 25-52x15 C2 oder C3 spielt keine Rolle. Ich bespreche sie in dem Video, das vorher war.

[@JailbreakHelps]

Chiefpep gut zu wissen das du deutsch kannst! Baue auch gerad eine xv750 um und deine Videos haben mir schon viel geholfen 😉 Kugellager bestelle ich auch gleich mit 👍