Episode 10: Baseline Setups | The Insider's Guide to Project CARS 2

Episode ten of the Insider's Guide to Project CARS 2 series, providing useful hints and tips, will be taking a look at the first step in tuning setups and creating a baseline setup for your car. This mainly focuses on what aspects of the tuning setup to commonly change, and how a baseline setup can be beneficial for later use.
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[@TrevorMinton]

This is... incredible. I highly encourage everyone to give this base setup a try, and then tweak from there per-track. I'm 100% willing to admit that my skills aren't on par with many in the community. The important thing is that this base setup evens out all (or enough) of the uncertainties about what the gap might be between the machine's shortcomings and the driver's ability. For instance, I've been driving Daytona the past week out of pre-race excitement. I enjoy GT3 cars the most, and I'd been doing races all week switching between the 911 GT3, the 488 GT3 and NSX GT3. Of the 3, I could handle the NSX the best, the Ferrari was a close second, and the 911 was nearly uncontrollable. In each case, I could not solve for how to tackle both turn 1 and the bus stop. I'd lose it so easily under braking going into either of them. Nothing that I thought I knew about setups made enough of a difference for me to put together more than a few laps without losing it in either of those spots as soon as I got aggressive (after the tires warmed up). I also had this ridiculous bouncing and skittering on the banking through NASCAR 3 and 4. The best lap I could do was a 1:53. I was pretty much resolved to the fact that I just don't have the free time necessary to put into this thing to be good enough to run real-world lap times - both in setup and in driving skill. Luckily I stayed up all night to watch the Daytona 24, and came across this video while googling around. I watched it a few times, made some notes for myself and set up the NSX, the Porsche, the Ferrari and the AMG GT3 with this base tune. Yesterday afternoon, after the race was over, I tried the NSX around Daytona with the base tune, exactly as described in this video. On my third lap I had improved my sad 1:53 to a 1:51. Within 5 laps I was running 1:50s consistently, lap after lap. The shocking thing was how incredibly EASY it was to run the consistent 1:50s. The exciting thing was that was precisely aligned with the times the GT3 (GTD) class put down all weekend at Daytona. After that run I made two small adjustments that I saved as my Daytona-specific setting. My tires weren't getting much above 85C, so I lowered the tire pressures by one click. My oil and water temps were hovering at 90C, so I closed down the radiator opening by 10%. Went back out and put down a 1:49 on the second lap. Yorkie, your base tune just reinvented Project Cars for me. I feel like I've been training for a marathon by running in place under water for the past 3 months, and I just put on good running shoes and hit the track and took off. The cars are so predictable and neutral with this setup that I'm now putting the knowledge I have about situational tuning to use. Turns out that I think I actually have understood these things, but most of the cars are so, so, so terrible out of the box that it's just too time consuming and frustrating for me to patiently work through each incremental adjustment the way you're supposed to. The car is just too far gone out of the box in almost every case. This evens it all out so you can get to work, learn the track, and learn where the car could use a little bit of mechanical help and where there are truly problems to be found only between the seat and the wheel (i.e. me!) FWIW, I think the biggest difference this setup made for me was the elimination of the bump stops and the engine braking increase. I went to a 5 on engine braking. I've never understood any of the damping settings enough to even know which one of them to adjust, and the engine braking thing was a complete unknown. Makes perfect sense to crank that up though - many of the cars I drive always felt like they wanted to lock up and lose the rear if I let of the gas, and it finally makes sense to me why (too much engine braking in the default setups). I guess we can gripe about why in the world the default setups are so awful, but I don't care. I takes all of about 2 minutes to apply this base tune to any car, and then a practice session is fun again. It's a great feeling to have the car tell you so clearly exactly what's wrong with it, and to feel the difference it makes to adjust just one thing and move on from there. Thank you Yorkie, this is awesome.

[@seanmoriarty92]

Trevor Minton What you said is pretty much what I’ve been experiencing. About to go try this, I’m so excited to hopefully figure this set up stuff out

[@chad2831]

i think engine braking is the biggest out of box problem for most cars. the pre-load setting in the engine tab is also nice for controlling the car while lifting through the corners as well. happy racing :)

[@tomsawyer2112]

when the settings make such a huge difference, its just frustration to keep bad times even with a perfect line, getting top times easy with a good setting of somebody else with an approximated line, adding traction loss and abs, without knowing if these cars really can use them to such a degree, feels lie cheating, and as much frustration.

[@bmoney2011]

going to spend hours watching this over and over.

[@mo000on]

pro tip: speed up 1.5x or 2x

[@1MantisPhoenix]

listen, pay attention. Watch once, lasts forever.

[@scrabsdead]

U saved my life with the reduction of the engine brake. I was going crazy with the rear spinnin everytime i downshifted

[@CrzBonKerz21]

ScrabsDead I can't wait to try this, I keep flipping my rear end on downshifting to gear 1 on some tracks

[@scrabsdead]

yeah it happens if u downshift at a higher speed than u should be. This soften that problem but u still will have to downshift at the correct speed

[@l34052]

I find this happens a lot in the Porsche 911 GT3 when I race, hoping this might help that.

[@Aaron_Designs_NL]

so thats what Fc and gr5 do so much

[@Seyding]

This is exactly what I needed to dive into the setup world. Thx a lot Yorkie!

[@an_omega_wolf]

I love how you inform about what each part does and how the changes can impact every car.

[@phinds1]

Well I just had to tell you,,,I used your settings here and actually got my first Podium finish(First Place!!),,driving a Porsche 911 GT3 R at Dubai!! Yes,I'm just a beginner but it was VERY satisfying!! Thank you so much for making this Sim fun again. You're tutorials are amazing!! Cheers again from Canada!!

[@IITheGoodLifeII]

I watched the video, did the bump tune to my cars, and WOW! Every single car drives SO much better. I did not else other than then changing the bump to 0 as suggested. The cars turn in so much better-Thank you so much!

[@Yorkie065]

Glad it helped! I will advise that in some cars and tracks you will want to retain some bump stop. It's something I've learnt since creating the video, but it's great for preventing the car from bottoming out hard and controlling the rake of the car which is massively important in high downforce cars.

[@chrisa1160]

A must watch. Yorkie, thanks for taking the time to put these tutorials together. Invaluable advice in every one of them, but this one is an instant classic. Combining a stable, consistent set of baseline setups with your deliberate, methodical approach to learning tracks (Episode 5, another must-watch!) has me excited to jump back into PC2 again. Thank you!

[@codylee5703]

Dude this awesome. Took 5 seconds off my best LeMans run. Also are you a part of the PC2 devolpment team? I ask since I've seen your name as AI.

[@Yorkie065]

Glad to hear! And yes I am.

[@alexreed4477]

So glad I found this series. Way more informative than forum hopping and extremely helpful in flattening that steep learning curve for new sim racers like me

[@2woke2broke]

Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together for us mate. I’ve been struggling with corner entry oversteer in a few different cars, but a lot of things mentioned in this vid seem to knock that right on the head.Getting rid of the bump stops totally is a game changer for my tin top set ups too.Cheers mate.

[@paulmdevenney]

Awesome video. What I most struggle with is understanding how my experience on-track should be interpreted into changes to car setup. Great example - how do you know if you are "bottoming out" too much? Is it just hearing sound effects? damage to car? Watching the detailed wheels view HUD like a hawk? Using telemetry from a 3rd party app? The descriptions for each element in the setup is pretty well described by PC2, but only in terms of "if you have problem X, then tinker with Y". Identifying problem X would be a great video (or series of videos more like!).

[@aeidolone]

Finally a good video about setups for pCARS2! Thank you! Looking forward for the next ones!

[@nero008]

Please do MORE of these tutorials !! Especially how to drive properly !

[@delciobernardo3629]

Thanks a lot for this video. PC2 is a very complex game when it comes to setups and this video gave me plenty of insight on the technical part of racing in general.

[@Gfingers]

Great resource to up my skills. Thanks Yorkiel

[@MrKeplerton]

Thank you a lot! My salt-levels have dropped considerably after getting rid of that horrible power oversteer on the gt3 cars. Even got my first gt3 podium yesterday :D

[@Yorkie065]

Glad the video helped!

[@BenjaminKarslund]

Can’t wait for the in-depth episode later on! Really helpful stuff, Yorkie! 👌🏼

[@JPKelly-xr7tr]

Outstanding and Concise!

[@gollese]

Thank you for this, deserve much more views and subs for that matter!

[@pegasusuk568]

Great video thank you. I'm pretty new to track sim racing because I've played rally games for the last 5 years. Playing project cars 2 has made me feel like a massive noob again.

[@Nighttiger00]

New video from Yorki = instant like + watch

[@virtuosomuso]

awsome video , been waiting for something like this since pc2 came out , looking forward to the next episode , thanks for the info and your time much appreciated

[@tonyescottobene]

Thank you man for this video, most smooth, brilliantly paced and informative video guide to Project Car2 base setups

[@Yorkie065]

Thanks a lot!

[@lxapproduction]

Perfect Video. Thanks alot. Can't wait to see more about car setups soon!

[@yaskoh8245]

Thank you. More setup videos would be very good.

[@joelmiller9481]

Actually made such a difference thanks

[@smoothpoon86]

I love these PC2 videos, thanks so much!

[@andpracing2024]

Great insights once again! Can't wait for those differential and damper videos.

[@SD-UHD]

Yes! I've been waiting for this 😁

[@OffGridMadMan]

Yorkie, thank God I found you! And you work for PC2 as well. I only got the game yesterday but have made huge strides in just 5 hours of gameplay. Some cars felt almost undrivable but I'm getting there. Sorted FOV first, what a game-changer! This is my next bit of work to do and it all made sense. Great vids.

[@Yorkie065]

Awesome, cheers for the props.

[@WireSniffer]

Great video Yorkie!, Keep these setup videos coming, this is where the proper information in Sim racing is. But I may just add, I think you got TC slip back to front in your description. A higher percentage equals a higher slippage, which in turn means more wheelspin and a less aggressive TC. (You described it correctly, but you contradicted yourself when you said reducing the setting creates more slip) Also preload creates more stability in a neutral throttle position during corners. In theory a higher preload would make smoother transitions in most circumstances depending on your power and coast ramp settings.

[@Yorkie065]

Ah, yeah you're right. I got my thoughts kind of muddled up as I kinda merged the TC Assist and TC Slip in my speech lol. But yeah, you are correct in that increasing the value of TC Slip allows for more wheel spin.

[@2armdrive]

Yorkie, great stuff, just what is needed for this old head :-), very nicely explained and put across. i will be creating my baselines, - and heck, who knew that you can do this for all tracks, just did not see that, will make the task that much easier. making notes for my own crib sheet, and looking forward to the more details vids to follow, well done :-)

[@daniellofgren6577]

Thank you so much for an excellent video👍🏻 I`ve been struggling with a good baseline setup in this game since day one . in contrast to many of the other guides and setup videos for PCars2 on youtube you managed to pin-point a couple of very specific details thats appliable on most cars and for me made a huge differece. Again thanks a lot!!!

[@Yorkie065]

That was the whole idea of this guide! Would be useless to only make it for one car or car class / type. Good thing about setups though is that the theory behind things is applicable for all, it's just how you apply it that changes.

[@Bidle78]

Just want to thank you for all your efforts, some times it is a bit repetitive. Than you can just skip a part. Will watch them all and you deserve a lot more viewers!

[@Em-7Add11]

a lot of people found that moving the default weight of the megane to the rear a little helped them tremendously

[@Yorkie065]

Yup, that would certainly help stabalize it but can also work against you in that you may not have the amount of lift off oversteer that is desired.

[@jt33396]

I normally bring my brake cooling down to 35%-50% on the front depending on the cars, and as low as 20% on the rear. I also tend to slam the ride height to near minimum depending on the car. I like to make all around setups for my cars, so I'll definitely try that bump stop reduction

[@Yorkie065]

It depends on the track and the conditions, also the length of the race. Generally I tend to do races that last about an hour, so having brake ducts that closed up is bad in the long term. In short 3-6 lap races, it isn't too bad. But yeah, if the conditions are cool and the track allows it, you can run the brakes ducts very low, especially on the rear. Ride height also depends on the car as some like more rake, others prefer the car to be more flat, and then there's some benefits to having a higher nose. Generally, the defaults are in and around the right area's for each car so I don't tend to fiddle with them much, but there's certainly advantages to making changes depending on the car and track.

[@sam_pcr]

Hi yorkie ... thanks for sharing .... definitely changed the game play .... 😎🏆🏆🏆

[@maineiacial]

Love love love this series. You've taught me so much. However i have to point out i think your understanding of TC and ABS. The window states that higher numbers are better for a dry track yet you set yours to 15 of 100? You really want it set to about 80 or more. This vid may be 3 yrs old but im guessing you still got your ears on! What do you think? For ABS it is kinda the opposite also. The higher the percentage the more the ABS engages so a setting of 75 would be good for the wet but for a dry baseline you would want more like 15%

[@NelsonMcKey]

It's fairly obvious that Fuel Load needs to be a separate slider in the lobby, that is independent of creating and saving car and track specific set-ups. Ideally also with preset options for qualifying vs race sessions, and estimated light, medium and conservative loads based on session length and track.

[@anthonyp4474]

Waiting on pins and needles for the next episodes!

[@simplejackenduro]

Transitioning from GTS to a real sim. Decided to do my homework and came across this. Good stuff. Question about the brake bias and TCS… The settings you mentioned…are these “baseline” values that you then adjust off of while driving? Or are the changes you’re making in the tuning menu the same changes you are able to make on track via button mapping?

[@Yorkie065]

Glad you found my channel. Hopefully all the videos will help :) So everything that I mention here are things that I generally do across all tracks to get the car in the right sort of window. From there, I'll make further adjustments either in the setup or whilst on track depending on what the car is doing and the situation.

[@maineiacial]

Same brother. Still at it?

[@stuartmatthews8510]

Awesome thanks for the upload some very interesting points 👍👍👍

[@phinds1]

Wow,,I had bought Project Cars 2 on the day it came out and found it was shit. I couldn't get the cars handling the way I wanted. Thanks to you I've picked it back up and found this game AMAZING now because of your help!! These tutorials are awesome!! Cheers from Canada!!!

[@Yorkie065]

The game was never shit. You just didn't know how to drive it :P

[@phinds1]

Yorkie065 I don’t know if that’s supposed to be an insult or not but thanks just the same,,,,

[@Yorkie065]

It wasn't intended as one. People take time to adjust to things or struggle to adjust but a little bit of help and guidance, can open up whole new possibilities :)

[@phinds1]

Yorkie065 Oh ok!!! I took it wrong,,,, apologies,,,,

[@jamesWilliams-pg4ye]

This video is pure gold, many thanks for your great video. Its a sub from me. 👍

[@Yorkie065]

Thanks for the sub

[@jaysysumakaRatMaster3]

Cant wait for the rest of this series... really great content as per usual :-)

[@leonscottgamingandmotors8913]

Awesome! Very informative cheers lad, just what I was looking for 👌

[@RickyBroshRacing]

awesome stuff Matt! expecting atleast 1sec per lap faster after i change the bump stop 😁😁😁

[@Yorkie065]

Depending on the track, you'll probably get a couple of tenths - 1 second

[@sam_pcr]

I promise that was my thoughts exactly.....

[@sebcio33]

Same

[@lexaron]

So, how much was it?

[@cibie01]

Excellent thanks Yorkie very useful and interesting.

[@MrSrimera]

Thanks Yorkie, looking forward to the diff section with all those extra setting from the first game. Interesting that you said increasing bump stops made the car feel more wollowy? I was always under the impression it stiffened things up.

[@Yorkie065]

Nah, it does more the opposite. So the bigger they are, the softer they are. They get engaged sooner in the suspensions movement and have a sooner and bigger impact on the cars handling, and of course greater prevention of the car bottoming out. Smaller bump stops are stiffer, have less of an impact on the cars handling and may not necessarily prevent the car from bottoming out on bigger bumps. Generally though, I'm not finding the cars bottoming out heavily to the point they're having a negative impact on handling, and if they are, I've been able to solve the issue by adjusting other suspension and damper settings.

[@mjreesuk]

Cheers for sharing your knowledge, very useful information thank you. Liked, subscribed and eagerly awaiting next episodes :D

[@stavvyy5456]

Thanks yorkie great tutorial

Thx a lot. This explains a lot. Please do some more vids like this soon.

[@atif1538]

i've been waiting for this😁😁 thank you for the good video✌keep it up

[@PierreHeinleinWoW]

Hi Yorkie, i like your videos very much. Appreciate the work you do for the community. One question, i drive a GT3 R, i am just getting into racing myself with a g920. I start with Porsche because Stuttgart is just where i live and Weissach just a bunny hop away^^. I think you can see why i choose Porsche. I mean history as well ofc but anyways. My question: Can you make some Porsche GT3 R or some other GT3 cars videos, with setups starting with Stable / Loose and then improve the setup step by step with explaining what you felt during a lap while you changed some parameters. I am sometimes lost with all the different specific settings you can change. Many thanks again! Keep it up!

[@1TigeRRacing1]

man i wanted to thanks u for the information !!!! im learning much i open ur videos much time to remember stuff thanks much !!!

[@mountjoy23]

Many thanks, excellent series.

[@glennshin3310]

Thankyou very much, learning loads cheers

[@steracer3079]

Nice 1 , keep them coming 😉

[@Tony-1971]

Good vid Yorkie. Some great info here. I know what most struff does, but not everything. Is the default engine braking on race cars realistic and accurate to the real world cars ? The high engine compression on some cars can be a killer, but if its realistic and accurate id rather leave it at default and adjust my driving to it. Personally I always like to try and drive with default set ups, and no adjustments. I like "loose" and "OEM." I really like trying to adjust to the car, rather than adjusting the car to me. I definitely see the point in adjusting gear ratios, suspension and aero and stuff, to get faster lap times and make the car nicer to drive, but i just like the test of having to adjust to the car and the track conditions. The Porsche 911 gt3 R in Assetto Corsa for instance, it has a terrible default suspension set up, but i just like having to adjust to it when driving fast over really bumpy sections. I like that the cars all feel and handle very differently from each other and i dont want to lose that individual handling definition. I was really surprised at how differently all the GT3 cars handle and feel to drive from each other in project cars 2. I really like that. The GT3 cars in Project cars 2 feel and handle completely differently from each other. More so than with the GT3 cars in Assetto Corsa. You really do have to adjust your driving a lot for each GT3 car in project cars 2.

[@SlowBloke123]

Wooo thanks Yorkie! :):)

[@ihababbas9863]

Great video

[@karlgunnergrover14]

Awesome video very helpful thanks yorkie065

[@sam_pcr]

KPG - GOONER 😱my other hero.....

[@pietervaneck2219]

Great, keep it up.

[@Aaron458f]

If anyone ask me about Pcars and setups or tips first words out my mouth are YORKIE065!! Great vids and helpful even if I have to watch them over and over lol but how can you tell when your setup is done even when I get a good lap time I still keep changing things lol

[@Yorkie065]

haha thanks. You can probably go on forever fiddling with setups but generally I stop once I am happy with the balance of the car and I'm not really getting anymore time out of tweaking things. Once you get to that stage, it's a case of calling it a day with setup tuning and instead focusing on just running laps, familiarizing yourself with the setup and tracks as more time will come from that too.

[@jerryweirdspeed8943]

Regarding Bump Stops. Simply put: Always consider the track. If the bumps dont stop dont put on a bump stop. Nordschleife for example. Bumps everywhere. Fast, possibly aero corners, Straights, Sweeps, mid-speed, low-speed. Suspension travel always required. Sakitto is rather smooth around high speed areas. Yet still there are a lot of mid-speed and sweeping corners which may favor a rather soft suspension.

[@SmakerJAK]

Jerry Weirdspeed so even if the track is bumpy get rid of the bump stops?

[@atif1538]

Jerry Weirdspeed what about rebounds? i dont get that part about the bumps/rebounds/transition

[@DanMufc-jt9le]

Another excellent tutorial yorkie i never knew about them baseline setups so ive learned something new, Also when it comes to career mode can we adjust the baseline setups from there into free practice and play around with them before we apply it in the career mode practice sessions if you get me ?, and very well explained on the other category's for us noobies still learning the game. Keep up the great content

[@Yorkie065]

Yup. So any setups that you make and save for that car, no matter the game mode you make them in, you can load up at any track when driving that car. So in your example, yes you can make a setup in Private Testing, then go into Career mode, and be able to further tweek and tune the setup in the practice and qualifying sessions, and then also before a race providing it's the same car.

[@DanMufc-jt9le]

thats good to know need to get my racing technique back up to scratch having not played for a while :/ Thanks for the reply mate

[@ponceponce4431]

Put on the all terrain tires those have mad grip.

[@TheClitcommander79]

Thanks mate

[@marquisegoodwin2481]

Can fuel mixture be adjusted during race while in the default setup? Rich/lean

[@ripper9112]

I dont have chasis avaible to adjust, and cant find any info why. Can somebody tell me how to turn it on, i have to start career and buy parts or something?

[@chrisc3825]

Wow. Can’t I just load the best time trial setup? I’ve always shied away from this as it has seemed like a time sink and that my changes would never benefit me more than just using one from the leaderboard. 🤷‍♂️ I’ll try though.

[@Yorkie065]

You can, but you won't learn anything with regards to setting up the car from it and the setups that people use for TT aren't always necessarily suitable for racing with. They could punish the tyres more than they should, and are often created for that one person so not everyone may get along with someone else's set.

[@PuRe_AdDicT]

Thank You!

[@belegur4211]

Hey Yorkie... if you have a car setup or pit strategy with 'Automatic by Weather' selected... when it's dry, what does it choose if the car has more than one slick compound available?

[@silviutudorescu8114]

Belegur PSN i never go with automatic weather simply because harder slick compound tend to heat to optimal temperature way longer, use soft compound for short races (7-10 laps) and harder compound for longer races since the tires will last longer.

[@TravelswithYoly]

You indicate that your preference for the brake duct openings and the radiator opening is default. You state that you adjust brake duct openings based on brake temperatures created by the amount of work that they do. Seems to me that fundamental cooling openings should start with ambient temperature trackside before the race. The default doesn't seem to take that into account. I see the same percentage showing with large spreads of ambient temps. I've seen ambient temps of 104F showing the same 50% as when the ambient is 65F. Shouldn't you make the initial opening percentage based on ambient ? The most I've seen is 104F and the least I've seen is 41F (for normal track racing) so I use the 41F mark as 20% and the 104F mark as 100%. That means 70F ambient would have an opening percentage around 65%. I find that the radiator opening affects straight line speed considerably so I start with my theory and then simply adjust based on engine temperature.

[@justincase9284]

Does the engine braking have an effect on the limited slip diff amount? So say you're spinning in slow corners with less engine brake, could you add more (lower number) so it will help use the differential to stabilize the car?

[@florianniedermair2090]

How do I manage to create a good race setup out of a good quali setup? Are there any specific settings that should be changed without touching the rest or do I have to crwate a completely new one?

[@Yorkie065]

Obviously fuel is going to be the main factor. Other than that, generally I tend to have the two setups basically the same other than maybe tyre pressures. There tends to be more oversteer in the race due to the dirty air so perhaps make the setup a tad bit more understeery with shifting the weight bias forwards a click or two. Otherwise you shouldn't need much.

[@jayjanz1893]

this is great, thx!

[@chereveco666]

man, how yo manage to have the time and patience, to start looking for settings, and testing, unitil you able to to set good lap times, both in qualy, and in race? Been a player since 35 years ago, ( started with the old Test Driver By Accodale )....Regards

[@NikoBased]

Most of the changes in this video you claim are track and car specific. I think what most people are wondering is, what changes have the most dramatic affect on speed? Obviously it's all relative. That's not the point. The point is, people generally dive into set up videos when they're driving well enough and want to squeeze seconds out of their laps. After watching this I don't know how many of these changes are exclusive to the BMW, GT3 cars, or what? Protip on the tutorials, understand what your viewers are looking for.

[@Yorkie065]

Thanks for the comment. You have some fair points, but this is one episode out of a whole series, where 5 other videos go more heavily in depth into extracting more speed with detailed explanations of setup and each aspect. What i highlighted here in this video were things that i consistently go to first with the vast majority of cars and tracks, when making changes to get a quick base that gives a more stable platform to either build upon, or get the stability and confidence in the car to learn the track or hop into a quick race with, which in itself gets quicker lap times. I was aiming to cater a broad range of players with varying setup knowledge, but i know that its not going to cater to absolutely everyone and their own needs. I'll certainly take your feedback onboard though for future episodes.

[@NikoBased]

@Yorkie065 I still can't figure it out. I don't understand how people are getting laps so fast. I can "top 20" in just about any car on any track , for fastest in that specific car (so It's not like I'm driving slow), but there's a gap between my lap times and the best lap times. On all the leader boards there seems to be two packs of times. As an arbitrary example, there will be a group of guys who are getting [4.00, 4.01, 4.05] , and then below that cluster of guys you will see the following 6 or 7 in the top 10 who are getting [4.20, 4.21, 4.22] and everybody's using the same car. Obviously this is tuning. I really don't like this about this game because the engineer doesn't help me. It will ask me if I can't hit my top speed, I will say yes, and then it will tell me that my car doesn't have the functionality required to change anything. This is what I hate about racing games. There's always these secrets in the tuning that some guys know, and some guys don't. And they're separated on the boards. I can drive a car well but I can't tune the damn thing. And I don't think it's fair because the engineer doesn't help.

[@NikoBased]

edit* after talking to some guys about this on the forum, it seems as if some of these cars were faster at the launch, and were later nerfed. I'm being told this is what's responsible for the cluster gaps on the leader boards. Unfortunate if that's the case. They should have reset that.

[@Yorkie065]

That could be partly the reason yeah, as quite a few cars have had changes since launch, and tyres and other aspects are constantly getting tweaked, hence the no leaderboard reset as it is a lot of hassle and upsets a lot of players. So does not resetting them, but usually times aren't completely unachievable. Take a look at other episodes in the series on car tuning, and you may find some of the speed secrets you are after there. Tuning is a dark art but the guides I've done have been praised by a lot of people in helping them understand what kind of tweaks they want and need to be making to achieve a certain type of setup or feel for a car. Other episodes cover driving technique too which again will help unlock more lap time. I hope they help and get you closer to those top 10 times

[@Flociety]

Does anyone know what the tire pressure, partial circle with a number in the middle, and the tire temperatures and tire diagram mean at the bottom of each tire menu on the tires/brakes/chassis page? Is this even important?

[@HybridEnergy]

Who's here in 2020 still learning how to set up PC2 cars? :P *raises hand*

[@an_omega_wolf]

just began learning about this stuff so that I can understand what the hell is going on with my car in PC2 :P Usually i just use the race engineer, but it makes me uneasy not knowing what exactly is going wrong and by how much. Glad these videos exist!

[@HybridEnergy]

@@an_omega_wolf Yea, it helped me just knowing about switching from loose to stable.

[@gyanvarshnay8053]

Hi, i m a newcomer to sim racing with no background knowledge whatsoever, could u recommend me some places where I can learn more about car set ups and other factors in sim racing

[@Yorkie065]

Yup, right here on this channel and right here with this series. Everything you need to know about Project CARS 2, and it has a lot of useful stuff on setups, driving and racing tips that you can carry over to other sims too.

[@gyanvarshnay8053]

@@Yorkie065 thanks ill watch the series. Also do u know of any source material that u yourself refer or referred to, to learn sim racing

[@Em-7Add11]

When I play Assetto Corsa I feel like a need high bump stop a lot of the time

[@marquisegoodwin2481]

Any detail on how fuel mixture effects GT cars in Pcars 2

[@Yorkie065]

So you'll use less fuel per lap when switching to 'Normal' or 'Lean', but you will also be slower as the engine produces less power. Better to just lift and coast if you want to fuel save.

[@marquisegoodwin2481]

Yorkie065 Thank you Yorkie.. i actually viewed one of your other videos where you shared that same information.

[@fondfarewell2]

if anyone can help, the Ford I believe it is group a, I think it's a dtm car, anyway the car on straights sways back and forth and is very twitch, I've tried stiffening the front sway bar, loosened the rear sway. gave it full downforce in rear, it still likes sways. what should I be doing?

[@fondfarewell2]

when I say sway I mean it wants to float back and forth on the straight which makes it very hard to place it where I want on corner entry.

[@Yorkie065]

Double check the differential of the car, particularly diff settings relating to Power Ramp or Bias. If it's a straight Spool diff, then unfortunately there isn't much you can do other than make sure you have the right tyre pressures and adjusting the rear suspension and damping settings.

[@fondfarewell2]

@@Yorkie065 I have it on clutch Lsd and have angle at 90 which is all thevway down. maybe I need to go the opposite and give it less slip for side to side. maybe it's on the wrong diff type as well and needs a gear diff. that's the fun of the game though, I love figuring out how to make a car act the way I want it to.

[@jesseclifford4970]

What does it mean when someone says that car baselined 621.

[@Yorkie065]

Is it in relation to a specific track?

[@chad2831]

the game never puts on soft slick tires with the automatic by weather setting. they’re faster than the hard slicks.

[@Yorkie065]

Depends on the car, but mostly the track temps. If the track is above 30 degrees, most circuits and cars you're better off with a hard slick.

[@user-sg7qp9pq5h]

Is that set up is for every car in game?

[@ThomasSWK]

Why is the steering not 1 to 1 on most cars on the g29 wheel. When in cockpitview it’s perfect for the genetta gt5 but all gt3 cars I have to turn the wheel way more for the wheel in the car to turn. Almost have to rotate 180 for 90 degrees in game. ?

[@silviutudorescu8114]

TWeK Gaming change the rotation angle, i have the fanatec csl elite which goes to 1080 deg, i drop it down to 400 to have a way more faster response since you need less rotation, try that

[@OffGridMadMan]

@@silviutudorescu8114 Yeah, my wheel has 900 I think but I calibrate it to around 400 too. Works great.

[@KindJoe]

Thanks for the info, it's a great help. Just a suggestion tho, either lose the music or turn in right down. Had me gritting my teeth after ten minutes.

[@florianakkermans6334]

of course this vid is done by a british guy lol you lot and your passion for racing :D

[@mcapsalis]

You, sir, deserve a knighthood

[@ratatat9790]

Love your vids mate, they are most helpful so i do apologise for this criticism, but are you aware how many times you said 'actual' or 'actually'?. I wasn't listening properly to the info in the end 'cos all i could hear was this...maybe it's just me noticing. Sorry.

[@Yorkie065]

Yeah, i know i say a number of words a lot, way too much infact

[@sota_59]

I plan to buy PC2 for PS4, and race 3-8hour races, and i need to AI driver drive 1-3 hours per race. Do you think that is possible and any problems?

[@Staki6908]

works fine on pc, you give it a shot on ps4 yet?

[@ArcherAC3]

Engine braking causes car retardation indeed, I couldn't lift the throttle that the car would spin on its rear.

[@117johnpar]

I'm still wracking my head about top speed. In multiple cases I cannot reach anywhere near the top speed of the car I'm driving and theres no available tuning to mitigate that such as gearing or aero settings. Driving the Porsche GT4 in the GT4 class with a listed top speed of 180 never tops 150 on the Dottinger or the Mulsanne. Doesn't matter the fuel level or air duct opening. Its woefully underperforming and gets blown out by the entire field as it feels like it tops out in its aero resistance. Which isn't tunable on that car.

[@Yorkie065]

It is very rare that you will get to the top speeds stated on the cars stats. I wouldn't aim to try and reach it and instead set up the car based on the track and what it requires downforce wise. There's a lot of variables that need to be very much working in your favour in order for you to reach those speeds.

[@marquisegoodwin2481]

How to hide my setup from time Trial?

[@Yorkie065]

You can't. It always gets uploaded as part of your ghost data

[@marquisegoodwin2481]

Yorkie065 This isent true.. go look at some of the GTE Time trial leaderboard’s. Alot of the fastest guys hide their setups

[@TheNotFakeBot212]

I can't take away the bump stop...

[@Yorkie065]

You don't always need to remove it completely, as to be honest you probably should be leaving some in. Some cars though won't allow you to remove them completely.

[@TheNotFakeBot212]

@@Yorkie065 ok thanks

[@lexaron]

Did anyone count how many times he said setup?