You can 3D Print much SMALLER than you think.

[@soggynode]

Nice to see Steve is alive and well. He's like that guy in the pub that's always there when you stop in. Kinda quiet and keeps to himself but the place wouldn't be the same without him.

[@diiiamondmaster1461]

@@soggynodeI agree, always worried he might be getting lost.

[@TECH_GEEK10]

I love the extra time put into editing!

[@LostInTech3D]

thanks ! :)

[@FasutonemuMyoji]

And subtitles! (If you are not watching with subtitles you are missing out, it’s like 0.4% more fun)

[@TheMikolasZuza]

Hey, I'm glad me taking an instructions not to use FDM as a challenge, but turning the scale to 200% turned you into "I'll show you both". :D That's the spirit! Really awesome deep dive into printing minitures, which is something I was looking for with all the recent and not so recent developments in the slicer, firmware, all of it. Just got my first mini paint set, so perfect timing on this. Keep rocking!

[@LostInTech3D]

The only advice I know about painting is that you're supposed to a) water down the paint and b) not be terrible at it like I am. I'm interested to see how it goes!

[@dak1st]

And with 3D prints, make sure to use primer so that the paint doesn't get wicked into the groves of the print.

[@kimmotoivanen]

When painting, prime first (with miniature acrylic primer,) 😼 Acrylic paints directly on PLA had never worked for me & paint might run with layer lines (sharpies do). Miniature painting is -another rabbit hole- entire different world with speed paints and contrasts and washes, though blending and elbow grease will do the job with basic colours 😉 YT has plenty of resources (e.g. Lyla Mev) for techniques.

[@TrickyNekro]

I don't care that much for models, but for mechanical parts like gears. Unless you go with some absolutely ridiculous engineering resins, FDM is still the way to go. The info in the vid definitely helps with very small moduli. Cheers!

[@radwex934]

Siraya Nylon Mecha is basically made for this. I don't know any FDM material that is that abrasion resistant + it's much stronger than any normal resin.

[@JonLinde]

I am both surprised and impressed... Slicer skillz levels above my own.

[@billstoner5559]

Impressive effort to cover subject from several different perspectives. Thanks.

[@JaldaboathIrghen]

Amazing work, I'm reprinting some minis with your profile to compare, and while I'm happy I wasn't that far off in quality, you are waaaaaay ahead in reliability, thank you so much and congratz on the new yearly patreon subscriber! :P

[@GuruMN]

It's weird that it is easier to see the layer lines on the MicroSD card at 2:08

[@rentaspoon219]

Lost in Tech, I genuinely love every video you come out with, keep up the great work

[@uhu4677]

3 things: - Motor resolution - Hotend - Cooling The MK4 with its 0.9° motors has a higher resolution than almost all other printers on the market (they use 1.8°). Also it has a geared extruder, which has also a much higher resolution than for example the MK3. My guess for the hotend is, that normal-flow hotends work better than highflow hotends here, since they are shorter, which gives a more direct response to the motor-movements.

[@LostInTech3D]

All those make sense, yeah

[@FilamentStories]

“Sorry Mikolas” - I’m still laughing. I’m getting my MK4S out of the box and I want to do all these cool things. Or some of them at least. Fabulous video (again, as always). Seriously, so much information. Such good visuals. Loved it!

[@GideonTonkinson]

This was one of the most interesting videos on printin I have seen in a while. Great testing on this ane good overall examples and i love the closed captions. Keep it up

[@smorris12]

"Vertically dominant model" - absolutely perfect phraseology. Yoink. It's mine now!

[@denisjovic2023]

So nice to watch. Even thigh I'm more into functional printing, it made me think. Thanks 👍

[@JLProPhoto]

I have an XL that i have been trying to print miniatures on for around a month now, and I have been very impressed by the quality its been putting out even without any tuning. The only print that has been extremely difficult to pull off was a 1:50 model of a grand piano that i printed in multi color, with 0.4 nozzles. The drastic color changes and the sharp keys made it a challenging print.

[@LostInTech3D]

be interested to try that myself :)

[@ScytheNoire]

Okay, that is impressive that the XL was able to do the tool changes. That's some board game miniature quality prints.

[@TheBoojah]

Temperature control! If the pid control is bad or not tuned swings in temperature can show up as Z-banding. Perhaps this is more evident on smaller scales depending on the frequency of the temperature oscillations. At this scale perhaps a degree could make noticeably thinner layers due to thermal expansion of the hot end or bed? Plastic flow could also change and be noticeable at such thin extrusions. I had this issue with a bad pid (well it used bang bang then...) tune on the bed (1-5 degs) that showed as Z-banding. Thanks for some great tips!

[@TheButchersbLock]

That is a solid theory

[@drpainsjourney]

I must say, that you always surprise me, with some stunning videos! I wish I could afford to be patron, but as early, retired from work-life, and only getting a darn small pension ... well ... you know the thrill!

[@arsenabakan1154]

Your work is like a breath of fresh air. Thank you! (VFA on coreXY like K1 might be interesting fundamental topic, something to do with pulley and belt contact spot, observation with high speed camera might give the answer)

[@LostInTech3D]

Actually I would like to do some episode on watching belts in high speed, if nothing else it's really interesting

[@arsenabakan1154]

@LostInTech3D VFA is unsolved mystery of coreXY, if you cold prove the theory that belts/pulley pair is causing it or not, that would give answers to community members trying to find the reason and solution (maybe chevron belts and pulleys, silencers, belts with no teeth will have positive effect)

[@MisterkeTube]

Marlin (or Prusa's derivative) beating Klipper (or Bambu's re-iteration of its concepts)?

[@Dauphin21x2]

Great video, again. Interesting content, technically precise, well done video, very good editing. And your humor........Love it. Thank you!

[@FowlerAskew]

Yesss, the only thing I've really needed to print lately have been little specialty trim clips, but I mostly stopped printing for a while after trying to get such small parts to turn out reliably. Nothing helps me get a 3d printing technique to work better than a lost in tech video, so hopefully I'll dust off my ender 3 and knock out all the tiny parts I've been wanting to make!

[@802Garage]

I just love that you make videos that crap all over the terrible "established conventional wisdom" slop that gets perpetually parroted in the 3D printing community. When I first started printing, a lot of my questions were basically "Why not?" and "What about?" when all the posts online said you can't do something or you have to do it a certain way. Through my own testing I quickly found a lot of the rules were bullocks. A lot of your videos have been on exactly the topics I was exploring. Keep challenging common norms! At any rate, closed captions great as always and love the squirrels as always. Quick clarification, you're saying you changed retract before wipe to 100% right? That's what I almost always prefer as well. Funny thing is I was not surprised by the Ender 3 results either, as my Ender 3 Pro can produce near flawless quality at very low speeds on small details. I also got the quizzes right in regards to the P1S because the VFA were a giveaway for me. Most Bambu Lab users seem to ignore those exist. Anywho, great stuff!

[@dtibor5903]

I have both Ender 3v2 and Bambu A1. I never print such small like shown in the video. The reliability and speed of the Bambu is excellent. I had many failed prints on the Ender because something went wrong: tube fitting failed, PTFE tube cut by fitting several times, some unexplained nozzle clogs, failed thermistor, cooling fan failure, bolts got loose on X axis, the axis wheels developed bumps despite being not tightened a lot, the POM of the wheels got loose on the bearings, factory stepper currents caused overheating, and so on. Just a few of the problems

[@802Garage]

@dtibor5903 Absolutely not denying that the Bambu Lab has far superior reliability and general print quality over a typical Ender 3. The A1 specifically has a great extruder as well with the large single gear. The higher end Bambu printers tend to exhibit more VFA from what I see.

[@mrrooter601]

honestly exactly what I was thinking. I am in almost the same boat, though I have only been 3d printing for a little over a year. SO much stuff that I saw constantly parroted online (YOU CANT DO TEXT and things like that) were just plainly untrue, infact Ive printed plenty of minatures (even resin models with the premade tree supports like shown at the start) on my p1s with a .2 nozzle and a little tuning. you literally cannot tell the difference without a macro lens. I seriously wonder how much is people just not knowing about arachne (which I use 90% of the time) because it seems like a lot. I have not reached the part you are talking about at the end of your video, but I certainly had to take some time and tune out VFA on my p1s .

[@802Garage]

@@mrrooter601 Yeah exactly. A lot of it is just old knowledge that isn't accurate and 3D printing has changed a lot, but even today I see people who I hold in high regard and repeat stuff that just isn't universally true. Like they know how to tune a printer and they get high quality prints, but they still hold on to beliefs which are simply outdated in my opinion. Granted, there is a lot of advice you can't give someone brand new to 3D printing because they will just get frustrated trying to tune it, and many settings will take effort to get right, but still, a lot of wrong blanket statements thrown around.

[@izzieb]

It's not small, it's just really far away!

[@Blayzeing]

I regularly print at miniature scale with my MK3S and it never fails to disappoint. I've recently bought the revo upgrade kit for exactly the reason that I want to be able to jump between the 0.2 (or even 0.15) millimetre nozzles and then the bigger 0.6 and 0.8 that I use when printing things that aren't miniatures. It was really interesting to see this comparison as people never believe the benefits in terms of print quality and reliability that I get from the prusa machines at these scales.

[@TheButchersbLock]

21:16 poor Josef 😢

[@KimHarderFog]

Awesome, subbed instantly on Patreon, can't wait to try these profiles out on my Bambulabs

[@theaninova]

I think we tend to get lost in our own echo chamber of trying to chase away all the little quality issues we see in the prints. Whenever I bring prints as gifts for my family they are consistently blown away by the level of detail the printer is able to reproduce, and how fine and small it can be. So far I only ever had one case where I actually had to swap in a 0.2mm nozzle, and it's exactly as you said I needed to reproduce road markings on a miniature landscape, and with a 0.4mm nozzle it would just blob together. Now thinking back maybe I was going about the whole thing wrong. I should have tried to print the thing sideways.

[@SixOThree]

I love me some gray filament. I am 100% convinced it's the best color to print.

[@LostInTech3D]

It's certainly the easiest to video

[@BloodCat87]

I print some great miniatures with my stock FLSUN SR with a 0.2mm nozzle. I generally use a 0.08 layer height but have done as low as 0.04 before. I run it at 60mm/s and 100% infill so the supports don't break the fragile parts...it still happens from time to time.

[@hippiemcfake6364]

Great video! Regarding the 0.2 nozzle - even if the difference is minor, they're like less than 20 quid nowadays. If you plan to print a miniature or two, even a small improvement is worth it IMO.

[@kimmotoivanen]

Before Arachne, 0.25 mm nozzle would print outer walls at 0.20 mm - for detailed tool path - and inner walls with 0.30 mm - for "speed" - and there the difference was quite visible. Not sure how much Arachne helps, but son prints small stuff with 0.20 mm nozzle and ridiculous-to-me layer heights. He doesn't "know" so he tries and succeeds (A1 Mini precisely selected for small printing). Also I'm not sure if BL profiles use Arachne or classic 🤔

[@chezcotton]

Wow! So much information in one video and such impressive results. Subbed. I’ve owned an artillery sidewinder x1 for about five years and the Bambu a1 for nearly two months. The Bambu is amazing but I was surprised that in a couple of areas the sidewinder had better results. Like ironing was amazing on the sidewinder, surfaces were so smooth you couldn’t tell it was printed. Ironing on the Bambu a1 with default settings looks awful. I’ve got it a lot better than it was by changing settings almost as good as aswx1. I need to spend more time fiddling with settings tho.

[@KennethScharf]

After watching all the way through, wow! I have and Ender 3 Pro. It's usually managed to make decent prints, though I've never tried really small stuff. I did upgrade it to an E3D Revo hot end (to be able to print PETG and ABS). The E3 isn't known for having good part cooling. I did print a better fan duct for it (needed to match the Revo nozzle). Then I bought another Ender 3 Pro, this one a "Basket case" off of ebay. Literally a box of parts. I used that as a basis to build a Voron Switchwire (Enderwire). It has an E3D Revo hot end, with the PZ probe, a kind of load cell. I don't yet have it tuned it, but it already has me floored. I've never seen such good detail in the Z direction. Perfect layer transitions (as far as I can tell), and I haven't yet done calibration with the adxl. I've been using both Prusa and Orca slicers. And now Prusa has introduced their new Core One. And I'm drooling over it, probably even more so after seeing this video. But, if this Frankenstein I've built proves itself, I might find it hard to shell out over $1k for that Prusa. BTW, I have built the enclosure for the Switchwire from the plans, and I have a Nevermore filter in the works too. I like the names you've come up with for your printers. My first 3D printer was a repstrap made from raw metal (home depot), wood, and plastic. I named it Cobalt (Kobaruto), (Astro boy's brother). My Ender 3 is named Denkou (a robot character from Osmau Tesuka's Manga). I printed the parts for the Enderwire in Black and White PETG and ABS, so I've named it BlackJack (the rouge Doctor from Teskua's Manga of the same name).

[@StarsAtNight1]

When manual leveling my bed (on my sv06) the motors only have a resolution of 0.1mm. And with rechecking the bed mash I see differences of 0.2mm. The tolerances of my machine is just to large. (with new motors, bearings and belts) But heat also plays a vital part in this.

[@Amybnuy]

I'd love a nozzle size comparison for this topic! also what filament is that at 14:32 :O pretty! ALSO SUPER jealous of your prusa XL tbh.

[@LostInTech3D]

That's prusament, I think galaxy green

[@TurtleMasterFlex]

You sir are amazing, I have been researching into this topic for my CR-10 Smart Pro V1 for a while, I am very glad you released this now! I have 0.1 and 0.2 nozzles I am excited to try, I will be applying everything I learn from this video to my printing. I have already experimented greatly with my 0.4mm nozzle, I have found the absolute lowest limit possible for my setup on my nozzle is 0.04mm layer height, 0.4mm wall width. If you go any wider on wall width it Will Not work. 0.08mm layer height I use 0.42 walls, 0.5 infill. I would not suggest 10% nozzle diameter regularly, 20-80% nozzle diameter seems to be the max layer height range I can achieve reliably on my 0.4mm nozzle. in the end its a width over height ratio of the filament being laid down that comes to be the limit I think, as the lower the layer height the smaller the width had to be in order to get the same surface quality at a smaller scale. With Arachne, I have created a wall width test that tests 0.4mm nozzles from 150% nozzle diameter width walls to 50% nozzle diameter width walls, at 0.3mm layer height, I could only go down to the 0.35mm width section before walls would fall apart, at 0.2 layer height I could get to the 0.3mm width section, and at 0.1mm layer height I could get down to the 0.25mm width section. After all of my own testing, I excitedly printed my favorite tank from warthunder, the KV I C 756 (r), in 1:400th scale! The end result fits on a dime!! on a 0.4 mm nozzle! If you want to see the exact model I printed at the same scale, it is the "KV Tank Expansion (Redone)" By TigerAce1945 on Thingiverse, Take that model, and scale that puppy down to 25%! I supported only certain areas for the cleanest result. I have lots of pictures and am excited to share them soon! I just saw the discord server!!! I have all of my printers nozzle cam and bed cam recordings uploaded to youtube now and will be uploading even the longest prints! I need to get a filament dryer.. I can't believe I have been printing at 40% moisture since the first day I got my printer 2 months ago.. I learn every day! Thank you for your informative and detailed videos, and I love the music! reminds me of playing Cello in Highschool :)

[@Doughy_in_the_Middle]

I got my Ender just about the time you did. There's a model for a D&D Giff gunslinger that I printed on a 0.2 that still holds up today. I used to use it every time I tested a new 0.2 profile as a result just because it looked so good.

[@802Garage]

So... Perhaps Marlin has something going for it over Klipper? I have often wondered if this were the case for some print features. There are certain feats I was able to pull off with my slow Ender 3 that seem to challenge modern Klipper printers. I always assumed it was just speed related, but even with tuning and slow speeds, Klipper seems to fumble some tasks. I haven't had the time to experiment much with Marlin, but would definitely be interested if that was the basis of some problems! I also wonder if the code implementations of some slicing algorithms differ. Sometimes I think input shaping may be causing issues as it solves a lot of others as well. So perhaps not Marlin vs Klipper so much as IS vs without.

[@LostInTech3D]

That is one of my theories. One of them.

[@802Garage]

@@LostInTech3D Hahaha I can also come up with many!

[@snake5394]

Very interesting topic. Did you take into account that the MK4S has the 0.9° X,Y precise stepper motors? Standard are 1.8°. I dont know if Bambu also uses those, but this could be an importand factor, as you said, the details are indeed 90% of the time on the side of the models.

[@LostInTech3D]

I did, but I wasn't sure if the XL Did. I need to ask

[@Ro3Deee]

XL has 1.8 motors

[@dtibor5903]

All modern printers have microstepping, so they are capable working with finer resolutions than the given step size

[@dtibor5903]

@@snake5394 if there would be no microstepping, walls with 1-2 degree off the vertical or horizontal axis would look pixelated. In resin printing this is an actual issue.

[@windy1234100]

I first thought that the prusa nextruder played the biggest role, but then the bowden came along and beat some direct drives 😅

[@dgurevich1]

So that's what arachne means... I'll try this with some models. I got a ender 3 s1 pro, and used PETG at quite slow speed to print miniatures. I got decent results. And they survive quite a lot better thanks to material strength and better layer bonding. I did use orca slicer so removing supports was a pain. I'll try with prusa slicer next time.

[@jpjokela1]

> How long does it take to remove resin supports? While they might look indimitating, almost always the answer is "way faster & easier than FDM supports on the same model". (assuming no needlessly thick supports, and not too many thin & delicate parts, which are way harder to handle on FDM anyway)

[@SaHaRaSquad]

I suggest not buying just any random filament dryer because most of them are terrible. Most models still have no vents, meaning moisture stays trapped inside unless you regularly open it a bit. Mine has capacity for two spools on paper, but in reality both spools sit on the same rollers so when the extruder pulls in filament both spools will turn at the same time and the unused one will become a mess. In hindsight I'd have probably just gotten a food dehydrator or something.

[@LostInTech3D]

yes, no vents, it's crazy how many manufacturers still don't get how this stuff works. I'm actually going to make yet another episode on this if I get time.

[@two_number_nines]

By assuming that bed slinging gives slightly better cooling performance my guesses were very close to the reveals

[@timewazhere]

Never been this early to a Lost In Tech video! Great work as always!

[@LostInTech3D]

haha thanks :)

[@HazzleNt]

Me neither😆

[@collie147]

I've printed as low as 0.04 on a creality ender 3 S1 and it works really really well but when its doing cylinders it tends to spiral and eventually fail depending on the height of the cylinder, I think it needs more tuning on the flow rate

[@szymq4348]

In terms of supports - did you try to use supports from different material at mini scale? Like PETG supports for PLA mini?

[@chris993361]

I have a resin printer and I have to have a really compelling reason before I use it. Whereas I 3D print nearly everyday with my fdm machine.

[@freedomofmotion]

Have you tried using smal area flow compensation for even better results?

[@AlexHamre]

you might not need to change the board on Janet to add pressure advance. My ender 3 came with a V4.2.2 board and is running klipper with a laptop plugged into the USB port

[@wskinn]

Regarding removing the supports. I cut disposable supports or sprues that span a gap between two fixed points and remove them as two pieces instead of pulling on them as a single piece. This is easier on the delicate parts you don't want to damage. Make a random clip anywhere near the middle of the support and bend the two pieces away from the printer bed and workpiece. It will come loose with much less force than pulling it away as a single piece.

[@LostInTech3D]

Yeah I found myself doing that too

[@KennethScharf]

This sounds interesting. A thought came to mind, N, Z, and T scale model railroads.

[@LostInTech3D]

oh yeah totally

[@bestelectronicmusicfromnew5189]

I've had errors in Arachne, just for a tall gear, 3 of the lines in the gcode were extruding at double width using orca/prusa i dunno which. it was the Arachne engine it's less reliable. Cheers for telling me what it's for I didn't know it's for detail.

[@BRUXXUS]

This is truly bonkers! 😮 I might give this a try just to see it myself.

[@SianaGearz]

Tried printing a new optical encoder for my Logitech force feedback racing wheel, 60 slits, 0.5mm slit pitch approximately, modelled as 0.2mm wide walls, 0.2mm nozzle, 15mm/s, and it wasn't doing great. Tried HIPS and PETG, freshly dried. I suppose i wish PLA was more viable, but in some of these wheels the encoder is attached to the back of the motor shaft that gets hot. The bead just curls up and the retractions don't work properly after a little. My printer is a direct drive printer with classic MK8 extruder. I suppose if instead of slicing i programmed the G-code directly i could make all the gate walls one continuous path that is well anchored in the rim and it would solve that. Miniatures are too easy, they don't generate bad paths like that. Print support and interface layer with artificial underextrusion to make it remove easier with less force. You can do pressure advance on an old Ender without board change, but you'll need to remove power loss resume.

[@Stojce_]

I have an Ender 3v2 Neo with klipper and the quality is surprising to most people with more expensive printers, it's just well tuned, I'm looking to replace the bowden hotend and install a direct drive extruder, because of the standard bowden heatbreak issues and it's becoming a problem slowly

[@moegraph3316]

Nice video. Pushing the lower limits in fdm printing is just my thing. Everything that doesn't fit on a A1 Mini is considered big for me. But I guess I should finaly look for a dryer...

[@LostInTech3D]

definitely! make sure it vents properly or the lid can be left open a bit

[@TheButchersbLock]

18:42 you reckon the machines running Marlin has anything to do with the surprising quality?

[@LostInTech3D]

it's a thought isn't it ;)

[@Splarkszter]

Bambu runs some kind of Marlin too I think

[@Tomaskom]

"Cannot use pressure advance on old E3"... I've been using Linear Advance in Marlin on my 2018 Ender 3 for many years now. All it took was to drop some unnecessary stuff from the firmware and include LA and other features of interest. I even managed to squeeze in manual mesh bed leveling at the same time! I've also been printing some miniatures with a 0.2mm nozzle and 0.08mm layers with quite good results (as in much better than originally expected).

[@LostInTech3D]

Be interested to see some examples

[@wykonczeni]

Im amazed as always! 😮

[@sgtkabukiman9411]

The cats in the trenchcoat kept giving me Babadook vibes.

[@HazzleNt]

That looks amazing!

[@logicalfundy]

I would love to see a comparison between your profiles and the profiles used by Fat Dragon Games (KZbin channel Tomb of 3D printed Horrors).

[@LostInTech3D]

I haven't seen one of his videos for a while, but I remember using them for the ender 3 back in the day, he was very helpful when I was learning

[@tinkerman-q]

My chips go to: Higher motor torque (and possibly filament temperature) to support high flow rates. Decreasing flow rate may bring them closer together if this theory is correct. Another thing that may help (yes I know it's evil) is using Z hop. But not the standard, the spiral.

[@nickmerkus]

Great stuff, Regarding the the 0.2mm nozzles. They are not pointy enough. The ring of material around the hole kills the fine details. Especialy things like spears, swords, antlers, etc.... I filed one nozzle the be pointier by hand. I gues you do reduce durability. But you gain allot in details.

[@LostInTech3D]

interesting! have you tried the weird air brush looking ones? I didnt hear good things about them

[@nickmerkus]

@@LostInTech3D No, i looked at them and read only storries about leakages, So i decided to try to modify one and hope i didnt meet the drill angle on the other side. Somehow it worked out 😂 For completentes its was a 0.2 mm volcano aliexpress special. No clue if any of that matters for these flowrates.

[@tribalrhino]

I wanted to switch over to Bambu from Prusa, but, basically, if you want model precision, stick Prusa. Another you-tuber expressed it with a "Cylinder" they modelled which, like most cylinders, have facets - a 32 sided cylinder... They commented on the "better" print off the bambu looked rounder... it did look rounder. The prusa model, looked more like the modelled model. Dunno what that says... but it means I'm keeping some Prusa in my catalogue :)

[@waldolemmer]

2:07 Why does the microSD card have layer lines?

[@LostInTech3D]

👀 maybe everything is 3d printed

[@dingus-dingus]

A guess: The black and lack of (text) is ink that's printed on the card. The low resolution is enough and speeds up the overall process significantly when hundreds of thousands of microsd need to be marked every day.

[@Shakes_The_Clone]

I just got an X1C and would love to try some of this. Looks awesome. What Patreon tier has the settings shown in this video?

[@LostInTech3D]

any tier including trial :) let me know how you get on!

[@BarioIDL]

try 3d print a rough stock with mounting block that can be clamped in 4 directions then screw it on a cheap cnc to get clean finish and cut that mounting part

[@DanielShoemaker-h7i]

I noticed that you always put the parts in the middle of the build plate on the Bambu P1S. I think that you could get better quality putting the parts further towards the auxiliary part cooling fan due to better cooling.

[@TNX255]

Or the auxiliary fan might make it more difficult to keep the mini stuck to the bed with its blast :P

[@vilkann5893]

Could the use of brass/steel nozzles change the quality? Could explain why the ender 3 did so well at this

[@LostInTech3D]

it could - the bambus use steel though

[@Qwarzz]

@@LostInTech3D I'v had terrible experiences with steel nozzles. Maybe another thing on the list to test? Brass, nickel plated copper, steel and if you have extra cash, throw a diamondback in there. Steel has terrible heat transfer but I wonder how that changes things. I've been wondering if part cooler can cool down the steel nozzle easier than brass/copper since heat won't get there as fast.

[@riba2233]

Bambus actually have brass nozzles (more precisely heater blocks) with a small stainless or hardened steel tip, so that is probably not a factor

[@Qwarzz]

@@riba2233 One more different nozzle to test then. I didn't even consider there were also brass nozzles with steel inserts. That does sound a lot better than the whole thing made of steel.

[@dak1st]

Now do the same thing with TPU to make super robust miniatures!

[@LostInTech3D]

I think it would work!

[@dak1st]

@LostInTech3D I think it could as well, and it would be amazing! That's why I'd love to see one of your deep dives on it! Supports are probably an issue, I guess you'd need to cut them off with very fine scissors (nail clipper scissors or something like that). Or maybe use a toolchanger and use PLA/PETG for the supports.

[@davecgriffith]

Thanks for the vid. It was very interesting.

[@nagi603]

Hmm, interesting, had the black hyper pla, and it was way stringier than bambu basic. Buuuut I also could not dry it back then.

[@gbishel]

AAA batteries! the best object to have a scale reference. Thank you. (AA battery works too)

[@jacobmurray3621]

I think the big advantage of the Mk4S is the big gear in the Hotend mixed with the .9mm stepper motors.

[@LostInTech3D]

The latter isn't the case on the XL apparently so while I thought that, it seems less likely.

[@TechieSewing]

Brilliant coda :)

[@JohnLattanzio98]

14:17 Squirrel jumpscare

[@snan1384]

Awesome Video! Thanks for all those insights, I might dust off my prusa mk3s and try printing some of those : )

[@stldenise]

Wait, so what’s with the Ender 3 that makes it so good? The lack of speed?

[@LostInTech3D]

they were all, give or take, printing around the same speeds and accelerations or close enough, although I guess enders might have been _slightly_ slower

[@freedomofmotion]

Great now im going to have to try and make a profile for my qidi plus 4

[@yeeterbriffim1016]

Just got my first printer. Slicing software still scares me

[@LostInTech3D]

it's better than it used to be, most of the time you can use defaults now.

[@stevecade857]

3D printing is a steep learning curve for all aspects really not just the slicer side as there are so many variables involved. Use the defaults and if the print is not how you want it research now to improve the aspect that is causing issues. Most solutions are logical and from research and experience you'll develop your own skills and even be able to predict a problem before it develops.

[@ifell3]

Try adding a defuser filter when filming, it works with skin blemishes so might make your prints look better. That and defusing light.

[@googleslocik]

yeah, diffuse light should do most, since the main reason fdm prints look bad is due to horizontal highlights make the forms hard to read visually.

[@CrazyT0sser]

wet filament.

[@LostInTech3D]

it's always wet filament.

[@SnakebitSTI]

Some advice I came across was to either feed direct from a dry box or to use filament "wet", because drying filament then loading it means you're chasing a moving target with your profile tuning as the filament absorbs water from the air.

[@travistucker7317]

​@@SnakebitSTII print primarily petg, and once dried, I get about 2 weeks before I see wet issues

[@lykket]

@@CrazyT0sser first

[@chuck2501]

I'm guessing that the Prusa printers have the edge because of their 0.9 degree steppers over conventional 1.8.

[@Eronpas]

Hardened steel nozzles?

[@LostInTech3D]

interesting....hadn't thought of that

[@milewesler9592]

Whats the song playing at like 5:45?

[@LostInTech3D]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jX_GpIiEgNF0gdksi=NMDvoUkQmAZuZdvC

[@shanold7681]

I think like 99% of the 3d printing advances sense the ender 3 were just making it quicker and easier I was printing minis about the same as this back in 2019 with my e3v2

[@MallocArray]

Well, now you have to rename the XL to Cyclops

[@grantcurtis5200]

Is that a factorio electric furnace??

[@LostInTech3D]

it is :) I forgot to link it, I'll add that

[@SirLANsalot]

also if you want easier removal supports, just use Matte PLA, which will be fine for models too (printed an entire Grey Knight army). LOL the Prusa and suggesting they are cheap should never be mentioned together

[@duncurtain6187]

I think the problem with the bambu machine is that the preset acceleration and speed is too high

[@GiulioJiang]

It might be the extruder. Single gear is more precise at extruding small amounts. Prusa and Ender use a single gear

[@stoinercraft6389]

about the sovol print, was the independent support layer height and combine infill enabled? from what i observed on my klipper ender 3 s1 enabling those also causes similar z-banding on prints

[@LostInTech3D]

unless I messed up, no. I actually have a theory that independent support height causes supports to be knocked over but that's a whole different can of worms for a different video :)

[@stoinercraft6389]

@@LostInTech3D thanks for the reply! i just got a bambu lab a1, i'll be testing if the settings above causes the same issue.

[@hydos0694]

have you considered comparing 0.9 degree motors to 1.8 degree ones?

[@astromancer]

They're better because they are cartesian printers. Cartesian printers have shorter belts and also no crosstalk between X and Y axis.

[@edmarfilho2000]

very nice... tku for the 3mf models....

[@iopfarmer]

Nice subject for a video, thanks!

[@DonBarthel]

Prusa looks good not so much because of the machine but because they spend more time with their slicer profiles.

[@nonzensy1554]

This is a godsend of a video as i just have struggled with a miniature somebody wanted from me. do you have a profile for the ender 3 v3 se or a written down instruction how to get ultimaker cura to do miniatures with multipart. dunno if you know yeggi, i tryed my hands on the ork big mek you might be able to find. if you have slicing recommendations, i'd be happy to give it another go after the hollydays.

[@LostInTech3D]

the SE is the marlin one right? unfortunately I had to get rid of that one to make room but it should be pretty close to normal ender 3 settings for miniatures.

[@scott3001]

Is it really 0,2mm nozzle on Prusa printers or 0,25mm?

[@LostInTech3D]

correct the stock prusa nozzle is 0.25